2_ . : 


i\u  I'hcologir^/  ^ 


PRINCETON,  N.  J. 


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Purchased  by  the  Hamill  Missionary  Fund. 


DU  746  .C4  L8  1902a 
Lovett,  Richard,  1851-1904. 
James  Chalmers 


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JAMES  CHALMERS 


HIS  AUTOBIOGRAPHY  AND  LETTERS 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/jameschalmershis00love_0 


JAMES  CHALMERS 


HIS  AUTOBIOGRAPHY  AND 
LETTERS 


BY 


RICHARD  LOVETT,  M.A. 

AUTHOR  OF  ‘JAMES  GILMOUR  OF  MONGOLIA,’  ETC. 


WITH  TWO  PHOTOGRAVURE  PORTRAITS,  MAPS,  AND  SEVEN 
OTHER  ENGRAVINGS  FROM  PHOTOGRAPHS 


FLEMING  H.  REVELL  COMPANY 

NEW  YORK  CHICAGO  TORONTO 


SECOND  EDITION 


PREFACE 


James  Chalmers  was  a man  of  God’s  own  making. 
He  early  recognized  the  Divine  influence  within  and 
around  him,  and  like  St.  Paul  himself  he  did  not  ‘ refuse 
to  be  persuaded  by  the  heavenly  vision.’  He  owed 
little  to  education  or  to  the  influences  that  mould  the 
majority  of  men.  He  owed  all  that  he  was  to  his  sense 
of  the  boundless  love  of  Jesus  Christ ; he  gave  his  whole 
being  in  loyal  and  enthusiastic  surrender  to  the  Saviour 
who  had  redeemed  him ; he  caught  a large  measure  of 
the  Master’s  own  Spirit ; and  he  counted  it  his  highest  joy 
to  be  spent  in  the  effort  to  win  for  Christ  the  drunkards 
of  Rarotonga  and  the  cannibals  of  New  Guinea. 

Chalmers  was  absolutely  unconventional.  He  paid 
little  heed  to  the  common  standards  of  life,  and  made 
no  effort  to  direct  his  course  along  the  ordinary  grooves 
of  thought  and  of  action.  He  was  restless,  impulsive, 
to  some  extent  the  creature  of  mood.  At  times  he 
appeared  to  be  easily  elated,  easily  depressed.  But  at 
the  base  of  his  personality  there  was  a strong  will,  an 
indomitable  purpose,  a plan  in  life  that  refused  to  be 
modified  by  opposition  or  suffering  or  external  difficulties 
of  any  kind. 

The  author  has  chosen  the  plan  followed  in  this  book 
deliberately,  and  from  the  conviction  that  it  will  best 
accomplish  the  ideal  at  which  he  has  aimed.  That  is 
to  present  to  the  reader  the  real  James  Chalmers,  with  no 
attempt  to  round  off  angles,  to  reduce  seeming  incom- 
patibilities, or  to  paint  a fancy  picture.  As  in  the  case 


6 


Preface 


of  Javies  Gilmozir  of  Mongolia.,  wherever  possible 
Chalmers  speaks  for  himself.  This  method  has  its  diflS- 
culties  ; but  it  delivers  the  author  from  the  temptation  to 
work  up  glowing  pictures.  The  superficial  reader  may- 
think  it  an  easy  method,  yet  as  a matter  of  fact  the 
balancing  and  comparing  different  accounts  of  the  same 
series  of  events,  and  the  fitting  them  into  a compact  and 
clear  whole,  mainly  in  the  words  of  Chalmers  himself,  has 
often  taken  much  more  labour,  time,  and  thought  than 
would  have  been  needful  to  rewrite  the  whole  story. 

Chalmers  has  left  an  autobiography,  but  one  all  too 
brief.  This  was  found  under  the  circumstances  described 
on  page  15,  and  constitutes  the  backbone  of  the  life. 
There  is  also  in  existence  a large  quantity  of  letters  and 
reports,  both  official  and  private,  and  of  these  very  free 
use  has  been  made.  Those  who  are  acquainted  with 
Chalmers’  letters  and  reports  know  that  he  was  no 
master  of  style  or  of  exact  expression.  Like  his  great 
fellow-countrj^man  Carlyle,  Chalmers  was  fond  of  ellip- 
tical expression,  and  it  is  often  much  easier  to  see 
exactly  what  he  means,  than  it  is  to  trace  clearly  the 
grammatical  relation  of  his  phrases  and  sentences. 
Here  and  there  the  author  has  ventured  by  occasional 
changes  in  the  order  of  words  to  render  the  meaning 
easier  of  comprehension. 

Considerable  space  is  devoted  to  the  ten  years  which 
Chahners  spent  on  Rarotonga.  Many  people  who  have 
a fair  knowledge  of  his  New  Guinea  work  hardly  know 
that  he  ever  lived  in  the  Hervey  Group.  Those  ten 
years,  moreover,  were  the  severe  apprenticeship  which 
fitted  Chalmers  for  his  later  achievements  as  a master 
craftsman  in  dealing  with  savage  humanity.  Those  ten 
strenuous  years  were  the  training  period  which  enabled 
him  later  on  to  gain  his  foothold  at  fierce  Suau,  to  open 


Preface 


7 

up  the  whole  south-eastern  coast  of  New  Guinea,  to  say 
of  the  wild  cannibals  of  Namau  that  he  loved  them. 

Parts  of  the  fifth  chapter  traverse  ground  covered 
by  Work  and  Adventure  in  New  Guinea.  But  as 
Chalmers  gave  much  space  to  these  events  in  his  auto- 
biography, and  thereby  indicated  the  importance  he 
attached  to  them,  the  author  did  not  feel  at  liberty  to 
delete  them.  Moreover,  though  dealing  with  the  same 
events,  the  descriptions  are  by  no  means  identical  with 
those  in  the  book. 

Chalmers  was  a many-sided  man,  and  his  vigorous 
personality  attracted  to  him  men  of  widely  different  types. 
He  fascinated  the  common  sailors  on  a British  man-of- 
war;  he  could  hold  the  gun-room  table  spellbound  by 
the  hour ; he  drew  out  the  sympathetic  side  of  men  of 
science ; he  could  thrill  huge  assemblies ; and  he  was 
never  happier  than  in  the  company  of  little  children. 
But  his  life-work  was  that  of  a missionary  of  Jesus 
Christ  to  the  heathen,  and  it  is  mainly  from  that  point 
of  view  that  he  must  be  studied  if  he  is  to  be  understood. 

It  is  impossible  to  acknowledge  here  the  kind  help 
of  all  the  many  friends  who  ha^  o gladly  co-operated  in 
this  labour  of  love.  But  I am  indebted  in  the  first 
instance  to  Mr.  Harrison -Chalmers  for  placing  at  my 
disposal  the  entire  manuscript  material  in  his  possession  as 
stepson  and  representative  of  Mr.  Chalmers.  My  thanks 
are  also  due  to  the  Directors  of  the  London  Missionary 
Society  for  allowing  me  the  fullest  access  to  all  their 
official  correspondence.  I am  also  indebted  in  an 
especial  degree  to  the  Rev.  Gilbert  Meikle,  Mr.  Chalmers’ 
pastor  when  a lad  at  Inveraray ; to  the  Rev.  R.  Wardlaw 
Thompson  ; to  Sir  J.  Erskine,  of  the  Royal  Navy,  under 
whom  the  Protectorate  over  New  Guinea  was  pro- 
claimed in  1884;  to  the  Rev.  Joseph  King,  the  London 


8 


Preface 


Missionary  Society’s  representative  in  Melbourne ; and 
to  Dr.  Lawes,  Tamate’s  life -long-  friend  and  colleague. 

I owe  also  an  especial  debt  to  Mrs.  Arthur  Edwards 
(Miss  Kate  Blomfield),  who  has  greatly  enhanced  the 
value  of  this  book  by  allowing  me  to  consult  a 
large  number  of  letters,  written  to  her  by  Tamate, 
between  1886  and  1901  ; also  to  Mrs.  Robert  Dawson, 
Miss  Emily  Blomfield,  Miss  Searle  of  Kew,  Mel- 
bourne, the  Rev.  J.  J.  K.  Hut  chin,  and  a host  of 
other  friends  who  have  all  most  willingly  co-operated 
in  the  work  by  allowing  me  to  consult  letters  in  their 
possession. 

I owe  a word  of  thankful  acknowledgement  to  Mr. 
Graham  Balfour,  for  sanctioning  the  publication  of  the 
three  letters  from  Robert  Louis  Stevenson  to  Tamate, 
written  in  1890,  letters  as  characteristic  as  any  that  ever 
proceeded  from  that  skilled  pen. 

The  book  is  sent  forth  in  the  hope  that  it  may  recall 
much  that  was  gracious  and  inspiring  to  many  who  have 
clasped  Tamate’s  strong  hand,  looked  into  his  flashing 
eyes,  and  heard  the  trumpet-tones  of  his  voice  from  the 
pulpit  and  the  platform.  It  is  hoped  also  that,  in  the 
words  of  Admiral  Bridge,  ‘ it  does  justice  to  the  character 
of  this  great  Englishman,’ using  the  term  in  its  widest  sense. 

But  Chalmers  above  all  was  a great  servant  of  Jesus 
Christ,  and,  to  use  his  own  phrase,  ‘ a whole-souled 
missionary.’  May  the  Head  of  the  Church  deign  to  use 
this  story  of  a noble  life  to  inspire  others  to  go  forth 
and  carry  on  that  great  work  which  fell  from  the 
veteran’s  hands  when  the  awful  but  glorious  crown 
of  martyrdom  descended  upon  him  and  his  young 
colleague  at  Dopima ! 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER 

I.  Early  Years  .... 

PA.GE 

13 

II. 

College  Life  .... 

29 

III. 

‘ In  Perils  of  Waters  ’ . 

• 

• 

52 

IV. 

Life  on  Rarotonga 

• 

• 

71 

V. 

Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

• 

• 

122 

VI. 

Pioneering,  1879  to  1886 

• 

• 

197 

VII. 

The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 

• 

• 

236 

VIII. 

First  Visit  Home,  1886  . 

• 

• 

267 

IX. 

Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

• 

295 

X. 

The  Fly  River,  1892  to  1894 . 

• 

• 

371 

XI. 

The  Second  Visit  Home,  1894 

• 

• 

413 

XII. 

The  Fly  River,  1896  to  1901 . 

• 

• 

427 

XIII. 

The  Tragedy  at  Dopima 

• 

• 

471 

XIV. 

Characteristics 

• 

• 

486 

INDEX 

505 

LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


PHOTOGRAVURES 

Tamate  about  1880 

James  Chalmers  in  1887  .... 


Frontispiece 
To  face  p.  288 


ENGRAVINGS 


The  Mother  of  James  Chalmers  .... 
James  Chalmers  and  his  First  Wife  in  1865 
Tamate  on  Deputation  Work,  1886 

Tree  planted  in  the  Grounds  of  Inveraray 
Castle  by  James  Chalmers  . . . . 

The  House  in  which  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers 
LIVED  at  MoTUMOTU  (ToARIPI) 

Tamate  in  1895 

The  Second  Mrs.  Chalmers 


16 

48 

270 

284 

326 

416 

460 


MAPS 

The  Gulf  of  Papua,  showing  the  Site  of  Dopima, 

WHERE  Chalmers  was  murdered  . . . „ 476 

South-Eastern  New  Guinea  . . . . „ 504 


CHAPTER  I 


EARLY  YEARS 

James  Chalmers  sprang-  from  the  Highland  pea- 
santry, and  to  his  ancestry  and  environment  were  due 
many  of  those  qualities  which  made  him  in  later  years 
a prince  among  men.  He  grew  into  youth  and  man- 
hood under  the  shadow  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Inveraray, 
and  amid  the  influences  and  associations  of  the  Argyll 
clan.  He  ever  considered  himself,  and  that  with  pride, 
a clansman  of  the  great  duke. 

All  who  in  later  life  came  to  know  him  well,  and 
could  induce  him  to  talk  of  those  early  years,  found  that 
the  child  was  father  to  the  man.  To  the  invigorating 
air  of  his  native  hills,  and  to  the  free,  open,  if  hard 
life  of  his  boyhood,  James  Chalmers  owed  the  strong 
physique,  the  dauntless  courage,  the  almost  exhaustless 
energy  of  his  later  years.  Strange  as  the  statement  may 
seem  to  those  who  came  to  know  him  only  after  1886, 
in  early  manhood  he  was  slim,  and  not  entirely  free 
from  symptoms  of  physical  weakness. 

James  Chalmers’  parents  were  simple.  God-fearing 
folk.  His  father  was  exceedingly  quiet  and  reserved 
in  manner,  but  very  thoughtful.  His  mother  was  active 
and  energetic,  and  transmitted  to  the  son  much  of  her 
own  strong  individuality.  To  the  careful,  if  somewhat 
rough,  upbringing  of  his  parents  Chalmers  owed  a debt 
which  he  ever  thankfully  acknowledged.  In  youth  he 
came  under  the  pastoral  care  of  the  Rev.  Gilbert  Meikle, 


14 


Early  Years 

minister  of  the  United  Presbyterian  Church  at  Inveraray. 
The  following  pages  abound  in  testimonies  to  the 
abiding  and  life-long  blessing  which  this  relationship 
brought  him. 

Argyllshire  in  1841,  and  for  those  in  the  humble  rank 
of  life  into  which  James  Chalmers  ■n*as  bom,  was  a some- 
what hard  and  severe  training-ground.  But  from  con- 
ditions not  dissimilar  in  essentials  sprang  Morrison  of 
China,  Moffat  of  South  Africa,  and  Gilmotir  of  Mongolia. 
It  was  amid  these  primitive  surroundings  that  Chalmers 
developed  a sound  mind  in  a healthy  bod)* ; it  was  there, 
before  going  forth  into  the  great  world,  that  he  came  to 
know  and  love  and  reverence  Jesus  Christ,  the  Saviour  of 
the  world.  It  was  there  that  quenchless  love  for  the  savage 
heathen  came  into  his  heart ; and  the  energizing  resolu- 
tion that,  God  helping  him,  his  life  should  be  spent  in 
bringing  to  their  darkness  the  light  of  life.  The  breezes 
from  hiU  and  sea,  the  simple  yet  strenuotts  life,  the  atmo- 
sphere of  adventure  in  which  as  a schoolboy  he  lived 
and  breathed,  gave  him  as  an  abiding  equipment  his  love 
of  fresh  air  and  the  ocean,  his  quickness  of  eye  and 
instant  appreciation  of  the  right  act  for  an  emergency,  his 
readiness  and  ability  to  cope  with  all  manner  of  men  and 
of  things.  In  this  school  he  acquired  that  strength  and 
fearlessness  and  skill  which  in  after  days  enabled  him  to 
steer  his  whaleboat  through  wild  seas  and  the  wilder 
Pacific  surges  which  thtmder  over  the  coral  reef.  The 
tact  and  quickness  and  courage  with  which  he  held  his 
own  in  early  schoolboy  rivalries  enabled  him  in  later 
years  to  keep  his  head,  though  surrounded  by  fierce  and 
excited  cannibals,  when  his  own  life  and  the  lives  of  all 
who  were  with  him  depended  upon  his  power  to  control 
the  resdess  passions  of  fierce  savages,  and  to  turn  their 
thoughts  from  murder  to  those  of  peace. 


15 


Birth  and  Parentage 

Only  a short  time  before  his  death  Chalmers  wrote 
a brief  autobiography.  The  manuscript  bears  the  head- 
ing, ‘ Notes  for  Lizzie,’  and  was  doubtless  completed  in 
this  form  at  the  request  of  his  second  wife.  It  was 
originally  composed  of  five  quires  of  quarto  letter-paper, 
but  one  of  these  quires  disappeared,  in  some  way  un- 
known, in  New  Guinea.  After  his  murder  this  auto- 
biography was  found  among  Chalmers’  papers  at  Daru, 
and  sent  home  after  the  visit  of  the  Government  steamer 
to  the  scene  of  the  tragedy.  In  this  document  he  has 
sketched  his  own  early  years. 

‘ I was  born  in  Ardrishaig,  Argyllshire,  on  August  4, 
1841.  My  father  was  an  Aberdonian,  a stonemason, 
who  came  in  the  thirties  to  Inveraray  to  assist  in  the 
building  of  the  quay,  and  who  never  again  returned  to 
his  home  near  Peterhead.  My  mother  was  a High- 
lander, born  at  Luss,  on  Loch  Lomond.  I never  met  any 
of  my  father’s  people ; but  in  after  life  I came  to  know 
several  of  my  mother’s.  The  first  three  years  of  my  life 
were  spent  in  Ardrishaig,  which  was  then  only  a small 
fishing  village  on  Loch  Fyne,  about  twenty-three  miles 
below  Inveraray.  From  Ardrishaig  we  removed  to 
Lochgilphead,  and  remained  there  for  a year  or  two. 
Then,  after  a short  interval  spent  at  a place  near  to 
Tarbert,  we  again  returned  to  Ardrishaig. 

‘ My  first  school  was  on  the  south  side  of  the  canal, 
and  I can  well  remember  my  mother  leading  me  to  the 
master,  and  giving  him  strict  injunctions  not  to  spare 
the  rod.  I do  not  remember  his  ever  thrashing  me ; 
but  I shall  never  forget  a punishment  which  I consider 
much  more  severe  than  the  taws.  From  my  infancy 
I was  very  fond  of  sweets,  and  a lad  several  years  my 
senior  had  some,  and  said  he  would  share  them  with 
me  if  I would  first  chew  what  he  gave  me.  I gladly 


i6 


Early  Years 

offered  to  do  so,  and  he  gave  me  a piece  of  tobacco, 
which  I chewed  with  avidity,  because  of  the  prospect  of 
sweets.  Little  did  I imagine  the  effect  it  would  have 
upon  me ; and  when  my  class  was  called  I staggered 
and  fell  as  I was  going  to  the  master.  1 was  picked  up, 
and  for  punishment  placed  in  the  master’s  box  desk, 
with  a tall  chimney-pot  hat  placed  on  my  head,  which 
rested  on  my  shoulders.  I can  remember  being  very  HI, 
and  at  length  sent  home,  and  to  bed. 

‘ Great  was  the  sorrow  when  the  schoolmaster  left 
to  go  to  Australia.  He  had  been  in  the  habit  of  occa- 
sionally holding  a service  on  the  Sunday,  the  only 
service  ever  held  in  the  place,  except  when  a minister 
came  round  to  baptize  children,  and  this  was  veiy' 
seldom.  The  nearest  place  of  worship  in  those  days 
was  in  Lochgilphead. 

‘ Mv  next  school  was  on  the  north  side,  a new 
building,  and  the  master  was  liked  by  us  because  of 
the  sweets  we  got  from  him ; but  I fear  his  liking  for 
whisky  was  very  great,  and  we  had  many  holidays  and 
half-holidays. 

‘ My  father  was  very  seldom  at  home,  and  I can 
remember  that  I earned  my  first  money  on  one  occasion 
when  he  had  walked  from  Inveraray,  and  was  spending 
the  Sunday  with  us.  He  promised  to  give  me  a six- 
pence if  I could  repeat  the  twenty-third  Psahn  before 
night.  I did  it  without  a mistake,  and  I got  the  prize ; 
but  this  large  sum  of  money  was  too  much  for  me  to 
deal  with,  and  so  1 handed  it  to  my  mother,  and  I got 
one  penny  of  it  as  my  share. 

‘ I can  remember  that  the  people  of  Ardrishaig  were 
very  superstitious  ; but  at  that  time  I thought  there  was 
nothing  wrong  in  this.  WTiooping-cough  was  thought 
to  be  bad,  and  when  a child  was  ill  with  it  a donkey 


THE  MOTHER  OF  JAMES  CHALMERS. 


17 


Boyish  Adventures 

was  procured,  and  women  stood  on  each  side  of  the 
creature  and  passed  the  sick  child  under  it  and  over  it 
as  a means  to  a cure.  To  hear  a dog  crying  was  a sure 
sign  of  a death.  I can  remember  that  once  when  we 
were  playing  and  heard  a big  dog  cry  we  stopped 
our  noise,  and  wondered  who  was  dead.  We  were  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  canal,  and  shortly  afterwards  there 
approached  us  a horse  dragging  a boat,  and  in  the  boat 
there  was  a cofiSn.  This  made  a wonderful  impression 
on  me,  so  much  so  that  even  now  I cannot  bear  to  hear 
a dog  crying. 

‘ I paid  a short  visit  to  my  father  in  Inveraray  in  1846 
or  1847,  and  what  I best  remember  was  being  taken 
on  Sundays  in  the  evening  to  the  United  Presbyterian 
Churchi  My  father  was  much  interested  in  the  young 
preacher  who  had  come  as  minister  there  not  long 
before.  I can  remember  that  many  could  not  get  inside 
the  church  because  of  the  crush.  The  preacher  was  the 
man  who  in  after  years  became  my  beloved  pastor,  the 
Rev.  Gilbert  Meikle.  After  a few  months  1 returned  to 
my  mother. 

‘ I suppose  it  was  from  living  near  to  the  sea  that 
when  quite  young  I became  passionately  fond  of  it,  and 
I was  happy  if  only  I could  get  into  a boat  or  on  to 
a log  or  plank  of  wood.  I have  had  many  narrow 
escapes,  many  thrashings  from  my  mother  and  friends 
in  consequence,  but  the  supposed  salutary  effects  of 
these  were  not  lasting.  Three  times  I was  carried  home 
for  drowned,  but  my  father  was  wont  to  say  in  after 
years  he  feared  my  fate  was  to  be  something  else. 
I was  very  restless,  and  dearly  loved  adventure,  and 
a dangerous  position  was  exhilarating. 

‘ I was  a great  favourite  with  many  of  the  fishermen, 
and  was  often  allowed  to  spend  some  time  on  board  of 

B 


i8 


Early  Years 

their  boats.  It  was  when  in  the  school  on  the  north 
side  that  four  of  us  thought  we  could  build  a boat  for 
ourselves,  and  even  attempted  it.  But  we  soon  gave  up 
the  effort,  and  took  to  caulking  and  tarring  a herring- 
box,  which  we  finished  quickly.  As  I was  captain,  I must 
have  the  first  sail.  We  got  a long  line,  and  I,  sitting 
in  the  herring-box,  was  dragged  along  the  beach  until 
the  line  broke,  and  I was  carried  out  to  sea.  There  was 
a difficulty  in  saving  me  because  of  the  strong  current. 

‘In  1848  or  1849  we  all  went  to  Glenaray,  near  to 
Inveraray,  to  live  ; and  in  after  years  I came  to  look 
upon  that  as  the  place  to  which  I belonged,  rather  than 
Ardrishaig.  In  1850  I spent  a day  in  the  latter  place, 
but  have  never  visited  it  since.  I can  remember  it  was 
a fearful  place  for  whiskey,  and  I often  wonder  if  it  has 
changed  since  for  the  better.  The  continual  dramming 
of  the  fishermen,  from  the  coming  in  with  the  fish  until 
all  had  been  passed  over  to  the  buyer  and  the  curer,  was 
bad  for  all.  There  were  frequent  fights,  frequent  arrests, 
and  frequent  trips  to  Inveraray. 

‘ Our  first  home  in  Glenaray  was  at  High  Ballantyre, 
and  here  I spent  several  happy  years.  I had  two  sisters, 
and  together  we  used  to  go  to  the  Glenaray  school. 
The  master  then  was  Mr.  John  McArthur,  and  he  con- 
tinued master  until  1 894,  when  he  died,  a very  old  man. 
We  had  over  three  miles  to  go  to  school,  and  often  were 
the  only  travellers  on  the  road.  In  the  winter  months 
we  were  joined  by  a large  contingent  from  Sallachary, 
made  up  of  Morrisons,  Bells,  and  MacVicars.  Of  these 
I only  know  of  one  (1900)  alive,  my  dear  old  friend 
Dugald  Morrison,  now  of  Inveraray. 

‘ In  these  years  a great  number  of  scholars  came  from 
the  town,  a distance  of  four  miles,  and  others  from 
points  along  the  road  between  the  town  and  school- 


Youthful  Fun  and  Frolic 


19 


house.  There  were  the  Mintos  and  Blairs,  who  con- 
sidered themselves  of  the  town  party,  and  in  fights 
joined  that  party.  I joined  the  Glen  party,  and  many 
were  the  fights  we  had,  which  generally  began  with 
throwing  turf  and  ended  with  stone  throwing.  On 
fighting-days  we  considered  it  safer,  when  the  fight 
was  over,  to  take  the  high  road  by  way  of  Kilmun, 
where  we  left  two  of  our  number,  McNeil  and  Turner, 
and  then  on  to  Sallachary  and  home.  If  there  was  no 
fighting  we  came  on  to  the  Three  Bridges,  and  then 
up  that  way.  The  single  fights  were  many. 

‘ The  schoolmaster  had  often  to  punish  his  pupils  for 
black  eyes  and  other  signs  of  battle.  He  seemed  to 
know  everything  that  took  place,  and  so  also  did  the 
good  parish  minister.  Dr.  Smith.  The  doctor  generally 
visited  the  school  after  some  serious  broil,  and  spoke 
kindly  to  us,  and  urged  on  us  that  we  should  love  one 
another.  His  own  son.  Jack,  was  a sprightly  youth, 
and  was  in  every  bit  of  fun  going.  He  was  frequently 
unfortunate  in  getting  wounded  in  the  fights  and  in 
burning  himself  with  gunpowder.  On  two  occasions  he 
nearly  lost  his  life  from  the  latter,  and  on  each  occasion 
we  had  a visit  from  the  doctor. 

‘ We  were  taught  in  school  up  to  elementary  Latin,  and 
in  mathematics  Euclid.  Several  times  our  school  stood 
highest  in  the  competitive  examinations.  Mr.  McArthur 
turned  out  clever  boys,  and  these  are  now  scattered  all 
over  the  earth,  many  of  them  having  done  well.  He 
was  proud  of  us,  and  we  were  certainly  proud  of  him, 
and  loved  him.  Yet  for  one  thrashing  he  gave  me, 
quite  unjustly,  I felt  sore  at  heart  for  years  ; and  remem- 
bered it  all  through  my  life.  I was  accused  wrongfully, 
and  he,  thinking  I was  gmilty,  and  I stoutly  denying  it, 
in  wrath  broke  several  canes  over  me.  More  than  thirty 


20 


Early  Years 

years  after,  on  my  first  return  home,  I visited  the  Glen 
with  my  dear  old  pastor,  and  met  the  old  schoolmaster. 
He  referred  to  that  thrashing,  and  told  me  how  sony 
he  was  afterwards,  when  he  found  out  that  I had  had 
nothing  whatever  to  do  with  the  affair.  The  voice 
quivered  as  he  said,  “ Do  you  remember  it,  James  ? ” 
and  I don’t  think  my  answer  was  more  steady,  as  I 
replied,  “ Yes,  I remember  it  well,  but  now  It  is  all 
right,”  and  we  turned  the  conversation  to  other  and 
more  pleasant  memories.  To  my  old  schoolmaster 
I am  greatly  indebted,  and  so  are  we  as  a family. 
His  kindness  is  a memory*  that  lives. 

‘ ^Mien  I was  about  ten  years  old  I saved  one  of  the 
MIntos  from  drowning.  There  had  been  very  hea\y’ 
rain  during  the  morning  and  until  near  school  closing 
time,  when  the  sun  came  out,  and  we  had  a fine  after- 
noon to  get  to  our  homes.  There  was  a very*  big  spate 
on,  and  the  Aray  was  rushing,  tumbling,  and  roaring. 
The  affluents  were  all  fuU,  and  rushing  on  to  swell  the 
Aray’s  volume  of  water.  Some  of  us  were  a short  dis- 
tance ahead,  and  a few  were  coming  up  behind.  When 
at  the  Three  Bridges,  which  were  wooden  then,  the  old 
stone  ones  ha^dng  been  carried  away  the  year  before, 
there  was  a ciy*  from  a short  distance  up  the  river  that 
Johnnie  was  being  carried  away.  A rush,  and  in  the 
course  of  it  off  went  my  jacket,  and  I could  see  the  boy 
come  rolling  down.  I got  quickly  to  the  down  side  of 
the  bridge,  and  holding  on  to  the  timbers  beneath  the 
bridge  and  stretching  well  out,  I,  as  he  was  passing  under, 
seized  his  dress,  dragged  him  near,  and  held  him  tightly 
with  my  left  hand.  I then  slipped  down  a little,  and 
allowed  us  both  to  be  carried  a little  distance  on,  when 
I seized  a branch,  and  getting  near  the  bank  was  helped 
up  with  the  saved  boy.  YTiy  I went  to  the  down  side 


21 


Courageous  Rescues 

and  acted  as  I did,  I cannot  say ; but  it  was  the  only  way 
in  which  he  could  have  been  saved.  He  was  carried 
home,  and  for  some  days  did  not  come  to  school.  I had 
the  thanks  of  his  parents,  and,  what  pleased  me  still 
more,  the  admiration  and  cheers  of  the  master  and 
scholars.  A few  years  ago  I had  a letter  from  Mr. 
Wm.  Minto,  the  eldest  son,  in  which  he  refers  to  his 
brother  John,  who  was  saved  by  me  on  that  autumn 
afternoon  at  the  Three  Bridges. 

‘ I remember,  some  years  after  this  event,  standing  one 
afternoon  at  the  further  end  of  the  quay,  there  being 
only  one  or  two  others  beside  on  the  quay.  Suddenly 
there  was  a loud  scream,  and  on  looking  round  I saw 
a woman  in  great  agony,  shouting  out  that  a child 
was  drowning.  I was  a good  swimmer  now,  so  running 
along  a short  way,  and  taking  off  my  coat  as  I ran, 
I sprang  in,  swam  off,  and  seized  hold  of  the  dress  of 
a child  who  was  floating  away  with  the  current,  and  was 
apparently  dead.  I got  the  child  ashore,  who  was  then 
taken  charge  of  by  friends,  and  brought  round  to  life. 

‘ My  father  was  a thorough  old  moderate  churchman, 
a steady  auld  kirk.  Blow-high,  blow-low,  rain  or  snow, 
sunshine  or  storm,  all  were  alike,  to  church  he  would  go, 
and  I had  to  accompany  him.  My  mother  and  sisters 
went  with  us  on  fine  days.  My  father  had  a great 
respect  also  for  Mr.  Meikle,  the  United  Presbyterian 
minister,  whose  Sunday  school  I had  been  induced  to 
attend  by  some  of  the  boys  who  came  to  Glenaray  school. 
My  father  put  no  obstacles  in  the  way,  and  so  when  I was 
about  eleven  years  of  age  I joined  the  United  Presby- 
terian Sunday  school.  Mr.  Meikle  himself  was  the 
superintendent  of  the  school.  My  first  teacher  was 
Mr.  John  Campbell,  merchant,  a very  earnest  Christian 
man.  He  died  soon  after  I joined  the  school;  and  if 


22 


Early  Years 

I remember  rightly,  I was  advanced  to  the  class  that 
met  in  the  small  vestry,  and  w^as  conducted  first  by 
Mr.  Hally,  and  afterwards  by  Mr.  Meikle.  His  interest 
in  ever)'^  scholar  was  great,  and  absentees  were  always 
sought  for.  We  had  left  High  Ballantyre,  and  had  gone 
to  an  old  house  on  the  hill  near  to  the  schoolhouse.  One 
Sabbath  I w'as  absent,  and  during  the  following  week 
Mr.  Meikle  came  to  seek  me  out,  and  meeting  my  father 
near  to  the  fourth  mile  from  town,  he  said  he  had  come 
out  to  inquire  why  I had  not  been  at  Sunday  school, 
and  he  hoped  I was  not  ill.  On  my  father  coming  home, 

I w’^as  told  this,  and  urged  never  to  be  absent  again; 
and  so  save  the  good  man  from  that  long  walk. 

‘ When  I w'as  thirteen  years  of  age  I removed  from 
the  Glen  school,  and  attended  the  Grammar  school,  the  . 
master  being  Mr.  Smith,  who  is  still  there,  and  much 
respected  by  all. 

‘ My  father  was  anxious  I should  become  a civil 
engineer,  but  was  too  poor  to  help  me.  A way  open- 
ing, I w'as  taken  on,  as  a boy,  to  carry  the  chain  when  he 
was  surveying,  by  a Mr.  Darroch,  whom  I have  since 
met  in  New  Zealand.  For  a short  time  I rather  liked 
this,  as  it  took  me  away  from  school,  of  which  I thought 
I had  had  enough.  But  this  did  not  last  very  long,  and 
so  I had  to  return  to  school.  Once  my  father  was  in  the 
Blackmount,  and  I persuaded  my  mother  to  allow  me  to 
go  out  bark-beating;  but  on  my  father’s  return  I was 
glad  to  be  ordered  to  leave  off,  and  to  get  back  to 
school.  At  another  time  I was  allowed  to  leave  school, 
and  to  go  herding  for  a fortnight ; but,  liking  amusing 
books,  and  so  neglecting  my  duties,  I was  kindly  told 
I had  better  go  back  to  school. 

‘When  between  fourteen  and  fifteen  I entered  the 
office  of  MacluUich  and  Macniven,  lawyers,  Inveraray. 


will  be  a Missionary' 


23 


Mr.  Maclullich  was  also  Procurator  Fiscal.  I remained 
there  three  years,  and  then  removed  to  the  office  of 
Wilson  and  Douglas  in  the  same  town.  It  was  a time 
of  sowing  wild  oats,  and  I was  generally  blamed  for 
everything  out  of  the  ordinary  way  that  took  place, 
whether  I had  taken  part  in  it  or  not.  Off  and  on 
I still  attended  the  Sunday  school ; but  I could  not  bear 
to  meet  Mr.  Meikle,  though  I loved  him.  If  I saw  him 
coming  along  the  road,  I got  out  of  his  way  as  quickly 
as  possible.  He  lived  in  the  Newton,  and  as  I had 
frequently  to  go  there,  to  Sheriff  Maclaurin’s,  with  and 
for  papers,  I often  saw  Mr.  Meikle  walking  along  ; and 
then  I was  over  the  wall  by  a gas  lamp  about  half  way 
between  the  smiddy  and  the  Newton.  I was  nimble,  and 
as  he  was  short-sighted  I used  to  get  right  away.  Going 
to  the  Sheriff’s  was  always  spoken  about  as  going  to 
Avingandum. 

‘ It  was  at  the  beginning  of  these  somewhat  reckless 
years  that  I came  to  the  great  decision  of  my  life.  I re- 
member it  well.  Our  Sunday  school  class  had  been 
held  in  the  vestry  as  usual.  The  lesson  was  finished, 
and  we  had  marched  back  into  the  chapel  to  sing, 
answer  questions,  and  to  listen  to  a short  address. 

I was  sitting  at  the  head  of  the  seat,  and  can  even  now 
see  Mr.  Meikle  taking  from  his  breast-pocket  a copy  of 
the  United  Presbyterian  Record,  and  hear  him  say  that  1 
he  was  going  to  read  an  interesting  letter  to  us  from  1 
a missionary  in  Fiji.  The  letter  was  read.  It  spoke  of 
cannibalism,  and  of  the  power  of  the  Gospel,  and  at  the 
close  of  the  reading,  looking  over  his  spectacles,  and  with 
wet  eyes,  he  said,  “ I wonder  if  there  is  a boy  here  this  / 
afternoon  who  will  yet  become  a missionary,  and  by-and- 
by  bring  the  Gospel  to  cannibals  ? ” And  the  response 
of  my  heart  was,  “ Yes,  God  helping  me,  and  I will.”  So 


24 


Early  Years 

impressed  was  I that  I spoke  to  no  one,  but  went  right 
away  towards  home.  The  impression  became  greater 
the  further  I went,  until  I got  to  the  bridge  over  the 
Aray  above  the  mill  and  near  to  the  Black  BuU.  There 
I went  over  the  waU  attached  to  the  bridge,  and  kneeling 
down  prayed  God  to  accept  of  me,  and  to  make  me  a 
missionary  to  the  heathen. 

‘ For  some  time  I was  greatly  impressed ; but  the  im- 
pression passed  away,  and  at  last  I forgot  all  about  it.’ 

In  a letter  to  Mr.  Meikle  dated  April  29,  1863,  written 
from  Cheshunt  College,  Chalmers  refers  to  this  episode : 
‘ Often  do  I think  of  days  gone  and  spent  in  the  chapel, 
especially  in  the  Sunday  school,  where  I should  hke  to 
be  remembered  to  scholars  and  teachers.  Nothing  can 
afford  me  more  pleasure  than  to  feel  I am  still  one  with 
them  ; and  even  in  the  future,  when,  it  may  be,  in  some 
foreign  clime  I shall  have  to  teach  Uttle  black  children 
the  way  to  Jesus,  I shall  stiU  feel  happy  in  the  thought 
of  our  Sabbath  school  at  home,  where  I can  safely  say, 
many  years  ago,  when  you  were  reading  or  telling  us  of 
the  Fiji  Islands  and  of  their  dreadful  state,  I felt  so  great 
a fire  in  my  soul  that  I then  prayed  God,  young  as 
I was,  to  make  me  a missionary  and  send  me  to  tell 
them  of  Jesus ; but  alas,  I went  astray,  yet  that  prayer 
I believe  will  be  answered,  if  not  to  the  Fiji,  to  some 
other  place.’ 

Chalmers  was  twenty-one  years  old  when  he  wrote 
these  words,  and  about  fifteen  when  the  missionary  fire 
first  burned  in  his  heart.  The  ‘ going  astray  ’ meant  that 
for  a season  he  fell  into  bad  company,  and  suffered 
a temporary  loss  of  his  first  love  for  and  zeal  in  the 
service  of  Christ. 

We  turn  again  to  the  narrative  in  the  autobiography: 
‘ Of  course  at  home  and  in  school  we  had  the  Shorter 


25 


Severe  Religious  Training 

Catechism  ad  nauseam,  and  when  on  a Sunday  evening  j 
we  were  not  at  chapel  we  read  a chapter  of  the  Bible,  I 
and  then  were  catechized  upon  it.  In  looking  back  to 
that  time  over  all  these  years  I wonder  what  effect  that 
catechism  has  had  on  my  life.  I fear  in  many  cases  it 
has  soured  the  unwilling  pupils  against  religious  things. 

It  may  have  been  a help  to  me.  I do  not  think  that 
the  so-called  religious  teaching  in  day  schools  has  the 
beneficial  effect  that  many  think;  and  in  my  opinion 
religious  teaching  is  very  much  better  omitted  in  our 
public  schools,  and  left  entirely  to  the  Sunday  school  1 
and  the  home.  I delighted  in  reading  the  Old  Testa- 
ment and  the  Revelation  to  St.  John ; but  was  often 
perplexed  as  to  many  Old  Testament  statements.  The 
God  of  the  Highlands  at  that  time  was  a terror,  and  we 
heard  more  of  Him  as  such,  than  as  the  God  of  love. 
Mr.  Meikle  was  not  considered  quite  orthodox,  as  he 
preached  and  taught  a God  of  love.  I have  heard 
preaching,  as  a boy  and  a youth,  at  which  I have 
shuddered,  as  the  bottomless  pit  of  fire  and  brimstone 
has  been  shown.  I have  heard  preachers  say  that  the 
saved  parents  would  say  Amen  and  shout  Hallelujah  as 
they  saw  their  children  who  were  unbelievers  cast  forth 
on  the  day  of  judgement  to  everlasting  punishment  in 
the  lake  of  fire.  My  flesh  has  creeped,  until  I was  able 
to  get  rid  of  the  fearful  nightmare. 

‘ The  effect  of  teaching  like  this  was  to  lead  me  to  give 
up  altogether  for  a time  religious  things,  and  even  to 
create  in  my  mind  a great  antipathy  to  them,  since  I felt 
sure  that  I was  not  one  of  the  elect.  Still,  two  men  held 
a wonderfully  fascinating  power  over  me  and  others,  and 
we  believed  that  they  were  true  Christians.  These  were 
Mr.  Meikle,  and  Mr.  Duncan  Munroe,  a merchant  in  the 
town,  and  one  of  the  United  Presbyterian  elders.  Many 


26 


Early  Years 

quiet  and  kindly  words  did  Mr.  !Munroe  speak  to  me, 
and,  strangel)'  enough,  I never  felt  inclined  to  spurn  him. 
Nearly  forty  years  have  gone  since  that  time,  and  stiU 
I see  the  quiet,  godlj-  man.  In  the  winter,  with  his  plaid 
wrapped  around  him  and  his  genial  smile  as  he  came 
near  to  j’ou  when  out  walking,  he  would  ask  in  kind 
words  how  you  were  getting  on.  How  ashamed  one 
felt  when  in  as  kindly  a manner  he  referred  to  some 
incident,  and  said  he  hoped  it  would  not  happen  again, 
and  that  Jesus  loved  us,  and  wanted  us  much  to  love 
Him!  But  then  he  and  Mr.  Meikle  were  x\rminians, 
and  very  unorthodox. 

‘ Time  passed,  and  I thought  I was  too  big  for  Sunday 
school,  and  so  I left.  How  strange  it  was  that  soon 
after  I returned  to  the  Sunday  school,  not  as  a scholar, 
but  as  a teacher! 

‘In  November,  1859,  two  evangelists  from  the  North 
of  Ireland  arrived  in  Inveraray,  at  the  urgent  request  of 
Mr.  Meikle,  to  hold  a series  of  meetings.  Several  of  us 
young  fellows  decided  to  do  all  we  could  to  interfere 
with  the  meetings,  and  so  to  prevent  what  were  called 
conversions.  One  of  the  first  meetings  was  held  at 
the  Maitland,  in  the  joiner’s  loft ; and  at  about  seven 
o’clock  in  the  evening  of  the  day  on  which  it  was  to  be 
held  I had  no  intention  of  going.  But  I called  at  the 
shop  of  Mr.  Archibald  MacNicoll,  as  I often  did,  he  being 
a friend  of  mine,  and  he  asked  me  why  I was  not  going 
to  the  meetings,  and  said  that  I ought  to  go  that  night. 
I raised  many  objections,  but  he  was  so  resolved  on  my 
going  that  he  gave  me  a small  Bible  for  use  at  the 
sendee,  and  got  me  to  consent  to  go.  It  was  raining 
hard,  but  I started,  and  on  arriving  at  the  bottom  of  the 
stairs  to  the  joiner’s  loft  found  that  the  meeting  had 
begun,  and  that  they  were  singing  “ AU  people  that  on 


Conversion 


27 


earth  do  dwell”  to  Old  Hundred.  I thought  I never 
heard  such  singing  before,  so  solemn,  yet  so  joyful. 
I ascended  the  steps  and  entered.  There  was  a large 
congregation,  and  all  were  intensely  in  earnest.  The 
younger  of  the  evangelists  was  the  first  to  speak,  and 
chose  as  his  text  Rev.  xxii.  17,  and  seemed  to  speak 
directly  to  me.  I felt  deeply  impressed,  but  at  the  close 
of  the  meeting  hurried  away  back  to  town,  returned  the 
Bible  to  Mr.  MacNicoll,  but  was  too  upset  to  speak 
much  to  him. 

‘The  following  Sunday  night,  in  the  Free  Church, 
I was  pierced  through  and  through  with  conviction  of 
sin,  and  felt  lost  beyond  all  hope  of  salvation.  On  the 
Monday  Mr.  Meikle  came  to  my  help,  and  led  me 
kindly  to  promises  and  to  light,  and  as  he  quoted 
“ The  blood  of  Jesus  Christ  His  Son  cleanseth  us  from 
all  sin”  I felt  that  this  salvation  was  possible  for  me, 
and  some  gladness  came  to  my  heart.  After  a time 
light  increased,  and  I felt  that  God  was  speaking  to  me 
in  His  Word,  and  I believed  unto  salvation. 

‘ Soon  after  my  conversion,  I began  addressing 
meetings  in  public,  and  established  several  cottage 
meetings  in  the  town.  I also  went  to  places  in  the 
country  and  addressed  the  people,  as  far  away  as 
Lochawe  and  Furnace. 

‘After  my  conversion  I soon  remembered  my  vowin  the 
Sunday  school,  years  before,  to  bring  the  knowledge  of 
Christ  to  the  heathen,  and  never  again  was  it  forgotten. 

‘ My  parents  were  too  poor  to  give  me  a university 
course,  and  I often  wondered  how  it  could  be  managed. 
I had  joined  the  United  Presbyterian  Church,  and 
become  a teacher  in  the  Sunday  school.  Mr.  Meikle 
assisted  me  in  many  ways  to  increase  my  stores  of  know- 
ledge, and  especially  with  Latin  and  Euclid.  He  also 


28 


Early  Years 

told  me  that  many  students  supported  themselves  whilst 
at  college  by  doing  work  as  missionaries  in  connexion 
with  the  Glasgow  City  Mission  and  churches.  During 
the  summer  of  i860  or  1861,  a gentleman  who  took 
great  interest  in  religious  work  visited  Inveraray,  and 
was  much  pleased  with  the  various  meetings,  and  took 
part  in  them.  He  was  Mr.  William  Turner,  of  Glasgow, 
brother  of  the  weU-known  South  Sea  !Missionaty'.  He 
often  talked  to  me  about  his  brother,  and  about  mission 
work,  and  increased  my  desire  to  become  a missionarj', 

‘In  1861  I joined  the  Glasgow  City  Mission,  and  a few 
days  after  my  arrival  in  the  city  I called  on  Mr.  Turner, 
who  introduced  me  to  his  brother,  who  was  then  in 
Scotland,  carrying  through  the  press  an  edition  of  the 
Samoan  Scriptures.  My  district  was  in  the  High 
Street,  my  hah  near  to  a mission  church  connected 
with  GrejdHars.  I was  a member  of  that  church,  and 
worked  in  connexion  with  it.  Dr.  Calderwood  was  then 
minister.  Ah  our  evening  meetings  were  well  attended, 
and  my  Sabbath  morning  Bible  class  was  regularly 
attended  by  over  one  hundred  and  twenty  young  men 
and  women.’ 

It  is  not  possible  to  add  anything  to  the  graphic 
picture  Chalmers  has  sketched  of  his  boyhood  and 
youth.  Nor  can  any  details  be  given,  unfortunately,  of 
his  Glasgow  experiences.  /'He  toiled  in  that  great  city 
only  eight  months ; but  though  the  period  of  service 
was  brief  the  disciphne  was  invaluable  to  him  in  after 
life.  In  the  slums  of  Glasgow  he  had  to  deal  with  men 
and  women  hardly  less  degraded  and  even  more  difficult 
to  influence  for  good  than  the  heathen  of  New  Guinea, 


CHAPTER  II 

COLLEGE  LIFE 

Chalmers,  in  his  autobiography,  has  given  a very 
rapid  outline  of  his  college  training  and  experiences. 

‘ In  the  course  of  my  Glasgow  life  I began  preparing 
for  the  university,  with  the  intention  of  entering  the 
ministry  of  the  United  Presbyterian  Church,  but  after 
several  conversations  with  Dr.  Turner,  I applied  to 
the  London  Missionary  Society,  was  accepted  by  them, 
and  sent  to  Cheshunt  College.  I was  sorry  to  leave 
Glasgow,  as  I had  been  greatly  blessed  in  the  work. 

‘ My  anxiety  to  get  to  the  mission  field  helped  me  to 
apply  to  the  Directors  of  the  London  Missionary  Society. 
I have  often  grieved  over  the  unmanning  of  myself  by 
becoming  a student  on  charity.  But  I thank  God  for 
Cheshunt,  and  more  especially  for  Dr.  Reynolds.  That 
first  interview  with  the  Principal  is  to-day  a blessed 
memory.  We  met  in  the  parlour  belonging  to  the 
matron.  Miss  Aldridge.  He  asked  many  questions  about 
Greek,  Latin,  mathematics,  and  being  satisfied,  then  said, 
his  whole  face  speaking,  “ But,  brother,  the  most  impor- 
tant thing  of  all  is  your  state  in  relation  to  our  Lord 
Jesus  Christ."  Every  student  of  our  “ St.  Anselm’s  ” 
time  looks  back  with  holy,  blessed  memories  to 
Cheshunt. 

‘ After  leaving  Cheshunt  I spent  a year  at  Highgate 
with  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Wardlaw,  in  the  home  for  students 
soon  going  to  the  field.  It  also  was  a pleasant  time. 


30 


College  Life 

I might  have  to  go  to  Africa,  and  so  for  some  time  gave 
myself  to  the  study  of  Dutch,  also  attended  lectures 
given  by  a Dr.  Betts  near  to  Highgate,  and  also  attended 
the  Homoeopathic  Hospital  recommended  by  Dr.  Epps. 
It  was  whilst  at  Highgate  that  I paid  a visit  to  Cheshunt 
to  assist  in  the  Missionary  Anniversary  services  at  the 
village  stations,  especially  at  Hertford  Heath.  The 
weather  was  delightful  and  warm  for  the  season,  and 
several  proposed  a row  on  the  Lea.  I accompanied,  and 
had  a good  pull.  In  the  afternoon  all  stripped  to  bathe, 
I remaining  in  charge  of  the  boats.  I was  resting 
leisurely  when  I saw  one  sink  and  rise  and  scream  and 
sink  again.  A fellow  student  near  by  swam  out  and 
tried  to  seize  him,  but  he  got  hold  of  the  rescuer,  and 
together  both  were  sinking  in  the  mud  and  locked  fast 
to  one  another.  I sprang  into  the  river,  clothes  and  all, 
and  diving,  seized  hold  of  one  by  the  hair,  and  then 
the  other  students,  who  had  formed  a line  from  the  bank 
to  the  centre  of  the  river,  drew  us  all  three  safely  on 
shore.  We  hurried  back  to  college,  and  I,  getting  into 
a suit  belonging  to  a fellow  student  named  Pringle, 
hurried  away  to  Hertford  Heath.  We  thought  to  keep 
the  knowledge  of  what  had  happened  from  the  Principal, 
but  twenty-three  years  after  he  related  the  whole  affair 
to  me,  adding,  “ You  thought  to  keep  it  quiet.”  ’ 

Dr.  Turner,  referred  to  above,  a Scotchman  himself, 
an  Ayrshire  man,  was  then  at  the  height  of  his  fame. 
He  had  been  at  work  in  Samoa  since  1841,  and  had 
passed  the  Nineteen  Years  in  Polynesia  which  are 
described  in  his  book  with  that  title.  He  had  helped  to 
found  and  to  bring  to  a high  pitch  of  efficiency  the 
Seminary’  at  Malua,  which  is  to-day  one  of  the  best 
training-schools  for  native  evangelists  in  the  Pacific. 
His  chief  task  in  Britain,  at  the  time  when  Chalmers 


Influence  of  Dr.  Turner 


31 


met  him,  was  to  carry  through  the  press  an  edition  in 
Samoan  of  the  complete  Bible,  and  also  four  volumes  of 
Scripture  exposition  in  the  same  language,  for  the  use 
of  his  Samoan  students.  Dr,  Turner  had  had  some 
terrible  and  thrilling  experiences  on  the  island  of  Tanna 
seventeen  years  before  Dr,  Baton  landed  on  it.  He  was 
well  acquainted  with  the  type  of  savages  among  whom 
Chalmers  was  eager  to  labour.  A man  of  Dr.  Turner’s 
force  and  experience  was  certain  to  exert  a powerful 
influence  over  the  earnest  and  enthusiastic  city  mis- 
sionary. Dr.  Turner  continued  his  work  in  Samoa 
until  1882  ; and  he  died  in  London  in  1891.  He  had 
lived  to  see  the  youth  whom  he  directed  to  the  London 
Missionary  Society,  and  to  Cheshunt  College,  become 
one  of  the  foremost  figures  in  modern  missionary 
enterprise. 

The  reference  which  Chalmers  makes  in  his  auto- 
biography to  the  conditions  under  which  he  entered 
Cheshunt  College  is  both  strong  and  characteristic. 
He  states : ‘ I have  often  grieved  over  the  unmanning  of 
myself  by  becoming  a student  on  charity.’  This  refers 
to  the  fact  that  he  was  unable  to  pay  his  way  through 
college,  and  that  he  entered  Cheshunt  as  a student 
whose  expenses  were  paid  by  the  London  Missionary 
Society.  At  this  time,  for  the  great  majority  of  the 
candidates  which  it  accepted,  the  Society  paid  to  the 
college  authorities  a sum  of  thirty  pounds  a year. 
This  sum  was  only  the  lesser  half  of  what  the  education 
cost,  since  every  student  who  passes  through  the  college 
costs  the  authorities  at  least  eighty  pounds  a year, 
exclusive  of  rent  for  college  buildings.  Hence  in  Chal- 
mers’ case,  and  in  the  case  of  all  students  who  were 
similarly  situated,  the  authorities  of  Cheshunt  College 
conferred  a bursary  worth  at  least  fifty  pounds  a year. 


32 


College  Life 

The  London  Missionary  Society  also  allowed  each  stu- 
dent ten  pounds  a year  for  personal  expenses.  Many 
of  the  students  in  Cheshunt  College  at  this  time  were 
so  placed  that  their  friends  could  supplement  this 
somewhat  scanty  provision.  This  was  not  the  case 
with  Chalmers,  and  he  seems  to  have  felt  humiliated 
by  his  inability  to  make  both  ends  meet.  On  January 
22,  1863,  he  wrote  to  Mr.  Meikle  : — 

‘ I lately  had  an  interview  with  an  under  Secretary  in 
connexion  with  the  Society,  and  he  said  the  Directors 
did  not  at  all  understand  student  Hfe,  or  they  would  never 
offer  their  students  only  ten  pounds  a year  to  defray 
all  their  expenses,  as  it  would  take  that  nearly  to  pay 
for  washing,  fire  and  light.  I asked  him  if  nothing 
could  be  done  to  have  it  increased,  but  he  feared  not. 
I told  him  that  if  they  would  give  twenty  pounds  for 
the  first  year,  or  even  fifteen  pounds,  ten  pounds  or 
less  would  do  for  the  second  and  following  years,  as 
I then  came  on  to  the  Box  which  after  the  first  year 
pa)^  of  itself  the  student’s  college  expenses ; but  he  still 
seemed  to  think  they  would  not  change.  I am  the  first 
student  from  the  Society  in  this  college  on  that  sum. 
I have  no  doubt  but  I will  get  this  session  battled 
through  in  some  way,  and  it  may  for  after  life  prove 
one  of  the  best  lessons  I had  while  at  college.  It 
teaches  how  to  economize,  but  in  rather  a difficult  way. 

‘ I do  not  intend  to  be  at  many  meetings  for  the  next 
five  months,  but  just  to  get  on  with  my  studies.  I am 
beginning  to  make  use  of  the  Greek  for  my  Testament, 
and  I rather  like  it,  although  I cannot  say  I like  the 
languages  as  well  as  theology  and  mathematics.  But, 

^ The  fees  received  by  the  students  for  preaching  were  put  into 
a common  fund  called  the  Box,  and  divided  among  the  men  at  the 
close  of  the  term,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  services  taken 
by  each. 


Chalmers  as  a Student 


33 

by  the  blessing  of  God,  I am  determined  to  master  all 
the  languages  I have  to  undertake.’ 

In  another  letter  to  his  old  pastor,  dated  April  29, 
1863,  Chalmers  wrote  : — 

‘ Nothing,  it  seems,  can  be  done  to  increase  my 
allowance,  from  what  Mr.  Prout  says.  I spoke  to  him 
of  our  two  months’  vacation,  and  told  him  if  they  did 
not  increase  it  I would  have  to  remain  in  the  south. 
I shall  strongly  object  to  remain  in  the  south,  and  shall 
endeavour  to  get  home  by  some  means.  It  tries  faith 
to  see  so  many  difficulties,  and  I believe  they  cannot  be 
worse  than  they  really  now  are  ; but  yet,  and  although 
darkness  hovers  around  the  future  months,  I feel  the 
missionary  zeal  stronger — the  desire  to  glorify  our  dear 
Lord,  and  to  be  the  means  of  saving  though  it  be  but 
one,  now  surmounts  every  difficulty,  and  casts  down 
every  barrier.  If  I thought  next  year  was  going  to  be 
as  this — but  it  will  be  better  seeing  I will  come  in  for 
a share  of  supplies — I would  make  application  to  be 
appointed  to  some  part  of  the  field,  and  yet  I feel 
thoroughly  unqualified  for  so  great  a work.  Might 
I ask  to  be  remembered  in  the  Wednesday  evening 
meeting,  that  my  love  may  be  stronger,  and  that  I may 
be  qualified  for  this  great  and  glorious  work  ? 

‘ I need  not  revert  to  that  which  I doubt  not  you  will 
have  already  learned.  I mean  my  engagement.  The 
reason  of  my  becoming  engaged  so  soon  was  because 
her  parents  and  the  whole  family  are  leaving  shortly 
for  New  Zealand,  where  she  has  a brother  who  is  getting 
on  well.  This  one  thing  I can  say,  she  is  a thorough 
missionary. 

‘ I am  reading  Livingstone’s  travels  in  Central 
Africa  during  my  spare  time,  and  feel  very  much 
interested  in  that  portion  of  the  field.  Mission  work 

C 


34 


College  Life 

would  be  difficult  for  the  first  two  or  three  3-ears, 
but  oh,  the  pleasure  of  taking  the  Gospel  to  the 
Africans ! ’ 

In  after  life  Chahners  had  the  feeling  that  it  would 
have  been  better,  and  more  in  accordance  with  his 
self-respect,  had  he  waited  until,  bj-  his  own  labour,  he 
had  earned  enough  to  pa\-  his  wa}-  through  college. 
But  this,  in  his  case,  would  have  postponed  for  3-ears 
entrance  upon  the  missionar3-  work  so  dear  to  his  heart. 
And  it  is  practicalh-  certain,  as  he  surmises  in  the  letter 
just  quoted,  that  the  severe  econom3-  which  he  was 
compelled  to  exercise  during  his  student  da3-s,  was 
a fine  and  helpful  discipline  for  his  after  life. 

The  s3-5tem  now  in  force  with  the  London  l\Iissionar3’’ 
Societ3-  is  radicall3-  different  from  that  which  obtained 
in  Chalmers’  time.  The  Societ3-  does  not  accept  a 
candidate  until  his  college  course  is  completed,  and  it 
now  recognizes  no  financial  responsibilit3-  whatever  for 
him  during  his  education.  But  Cheshunt  College,  now 
as  then,  never  receives  from  an3*  student  more  than 
fort3’-  pounds  a 3-ear,  and  in  the  vast  majorit3-  of 
cases  the  annual  pa3'ment  stands  at  a much  lower 
figure. 

!Man3-  of  those  who  were  students  at  Cheshunt  College 
from  1862  to  1865,  during  the  time  Chalmers  was  a 
student,  are  still  alive,  and  retain  pleasant  and  vind 
recollections  of  him  as  he  was  at  that  time. 

The  Rev.  G.  L3'on  Turner,  1\I.A.,  writes: — ‘From 
the  autumn  of  1862  to  the  summer  of  1864,  I knew 
him  in  the  intimac3-  of  college  life  at  Cheshunt.  He 
was  taU,  but  thin,  not  at  all  portl3',  as  he  became  in 
later  3-ears.  His  complexion  was  then  rather  pale  and 
freckled.  His  hair  was  black,  his  e3-es  hazel,  with  an 
endless  sparkle  in  them.  He  was  active  and  muscular. 


Chalmers  as  an  Athlete 


35 


lithe,  but  strong.  He  had  the  frame  of  an  athlete,  and 
was  a powerful  skater,  and  a vigorous  football  player. 
By  all  his  natural  qualities  of  body,  mind  and  spirit  he 
was  a born  pioneer  and  leader  of  men. 

‘ He  was  possessed  of  boundless  energy,  and  was 
always  ready  for  noise,  pranks,  and  practical  jokes. 
In  1887,  he  wrote  to  me,  “ Do  you  ever  feel  old  ? I don’t.” 
The  only  way  in  which  peace  could  be  preserved  in  the 
college  corridors  was  to  make  him  and  another,  now  a 
man  known  and  honoured  in  all  our  churches,  “ police- 
men,” to  keep  the  peace.  Chalmers  was  a vigorous, 
magnetic  speaker,  who  laid  hold  of  his  audience  and 
moved  them  mightily,  and  touched  them  by  his  loving 
earnestness.  He  had  great  will-power.  On  one  occasion 
a series  of  lectures  was  given  in  the  village  hall  on 
electro -biology.  The  lecturer,  whose  name  was  Von 
Humm,  professed  by  mesmerism  to  make  people  do  things 
impossible  to  them  in  the  normal  way.  Two  lads  who 
were  evidently  in  collusion  with  him  were  brought  by 
him  upon  the  platform  in  a pretended  mesmeric  condi- 
tion. He  passed  his  hands  over  their  arms  and  these 
at  once  became  rigid.  He  made  them  drink  different 
nauseous  mixtures  and  then  declare  these  to  be  what 
they  had  previously  stated  was  their  favourite  drink. 
Chalmers  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  man  was  an 
impostor,  and  with  the  help  of  a confederate  determined 
to  test  this.  On  the  second  evening  they  attended  the 
lecture,  and  when  the  lecturer’s  confederates  appeared 
Chalmers  took  his  place  on  the  platform.  The  fellow 
student  who  was  gladly  assisting  him  passed  his  hands 
over  Chalmers’  arm  and  it  at  once  became  rigid  as  a bar 
of  iron.  They  had  also  prepared  a liquid  consisting  of 
a mixtiure  of  tincture  of  assafoetida  and  cayenne  pepper. 
Chalmers  challenged  the  lecturer’s  lads  to  drink  this. 


36 


College  Life 

They  did  so,  and  pronounced  it  to  be  coffee,  Chalmers 
perforce  as  challenger  had  to  do  the  same,  and  he  also 
drank  off  a glass  and  stated  that  it  was  coffee.  This 
he  did  by  the  exercise  of  his  will  power,  but  with  the 
wryest  of  wry  smiles. 

‘ He  was  very  warm  in  his  attachments,  and  he  had 
a big,  loving  heart.  To  the  last  the  vigour  of  his  hand- 
clasp was  a testimony  to  his  muscular  power.  One  of 
my  tenderest  memories  is  one  of  my  earliest,  and  it 
is  one  which  illustrates  the  earnest  simplicity  of  his 
Christian  life.  One  afternoon  during  my  first  three 
months  at  the  College  he  found  me  in  my  study,  and 
we  passed  a quiet  half  hour  together  in  prayer.  This 
was  quite  natural  to  him,  for  he  was  a real  man  of 
God,  and  a tender-hearted  Christian  disciple.  I felt  then, 
and  have  often  thought  of  it  since,  that  fervent  power 
with  God  which  was  the  secret  of  his  power  with  men,’ 

Another  fellow  student,  the  Rev.  WiUiam  Harris, 
who  after  many  years  of  service  in  the  Presbyterian 
Church  of  England  is  now  (1902)  living  in  retirement, 
and  who,  prior  to  entering  Cheshunt  had  fought  with 
Hedley  Vicars  in  the  trenches  before  Sebastopol, 
writes : — 

‘ I remember  him  the  day  we  entered  college,  and  his 
face  is  still  with  me.  Round,  slightly  freckled,  smooth 
and  winsome.  He  was  known  to  me  as  a fellow  of 
boundless  geniality,  good  temper,  and  to  any  brother  in 
“ the  blues  ” his  face  was  a means  of  grace  and  if  you 
were  a wet  blanket  and  stayed  in  his  company  long 
enough  you  would  become  dry.  He  was  very  modest 
and  unpretentious,  full  of  goodness  and  harmless  fun. 
What  he  did,  he  did  with  both  hands  earnestly.  He  w^as 
a lovable  character,  but  no  one  supposed  that  there  was 
such  latent  spiritual  force  in  him — a force  ever  increasing 


37 


Saving  his  Fellow  Students 

as  he  moved  on  in  life — revealing  him  to  be  of  the  order 
which  is  not  after  a dying  commandment,  but  after 
the  power  of  an  endless  life.  I count  it  one  of  the 
joys,  the  great  joys  of  my  life  to  have  known  James 
Chalmers.’ 

Another  fellow  student,  the  Rev.  James  Thomas,  of 
the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society,  describes  an 
incident  of  Cheshunt  life  already  referred  to  in  the 
autobiography,  but  in  a manner  which  strikingly  illus- 
trates Chalmers’  skill  and  courage  in  a moment  of 
great  and  unexpected  danger. 

‘ One  hot  day,  near  the  end  of  April,  eight  of  the 
students,  including  Chalmers,  agreed  to  go  for  an 
afternoon’s  boating  on  the  River  Lea.  Having  pulled 
for  an  hour,  as  the  day  was  so  hot  they  agreed  to 
have  a swim ; but  Chalmers,  not  being  very  well, 
resolved  to  remain  on  the  river’s  bank.  Of  the  seven 
who  entered  the  water  six  were  good  swimmers — the 
one  unable  to  swim  did  not  venture  far  from  the  river’s 
brink.  Having  been  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  in  the  water 
the  six  swimmers  landed,  and  were  drying  themselves, 
one  of  them  being  a little  distance  from  the  rest.  The 
one  man  unable  to  swim  remained  in  the  water  for 
a little  time  longer.  Suddenly  there  was  a splash  and 
a scream;  but  one  man  (the  writer),  who  was  apart 
from  the  others,  clearly  saw  that  the  man  in  the  water 
was  beyond  his  depth,  and  ran  the  few  yards  to  the 
margin  of  the  river  and  jumped  in.  The  others  thought 
that  the  man  who  screamed  was  only  larking.  Instantly 
the  drowning  man  clutched  hold  of  his  deliverer  in 
such  a way  as  made  it  impossible  for  him  to  swim ; 
and,  although  he  pleaded  with  him  to  relax  his  hold, 
saying  that  he  could  easily  save  him  if  he  did  so,  the 
frightened  man  clung  all  the  closer ; and  both  men 


38 


College  Life 

were  in  the  greatest  danger  of  being  drowned.  Their 
struggles  forced  them  towards  the  middle  of  the  river, 
when  Chalmers  perceived  the  greatness  of  the  peril,  and 
called  upon  the  other  six  men,  who  were  still  undressed, 
to  plunge  into  the  river,  and  to  swim  out  one  a litde 
beyond  the  other,  so  as  to  be  able  to  make  a chain  of 
hands,  when  he,  having  only  thrown  off  his  coat  and 
waistcoat,  jumped  into  the  water,  and  swam  towards 
the  drowning  pair.  Ha^'ing  taken  a secure  hold  of  one 
of  them  as  they  were  sinking  together  for  the  last  time, 
with  the  other  hand  he  seized  one  hand  of  the  outermost 
set  of  the  swimmers,  and  called  upon  them  to  haul  him 
and  the  endangered  men  ashore.  Bv  this  means  both 
of  their  lives  were  saved.  Chalmers’  skill,  as  well  as 
courage,  was  revealed  by  the  instantaneous  formation 
of  the  plan  that  saved  his  colleagues  from  what  other- 
wise would  have  been  certain  death.’ 

The  Rev.  W.  Garrett  Horder,  who  entered  Cheshunt 
College  the  same  year  as  Chalmers,  writes  : — 

‘ The  portrait  which  faces  page  48  represents  James 
Chalmers  as  he  was  just  before  leaving  Cheshunt  College. 
Those  who  knew  Chalmers  only  when  he  had  become 
famous — broad -shotildered  and  deep-chested,  his  face 
widened  beyond  the  dimensions  of  that  of  Charles 
Dickens,  to  whom  he  had  grown  very  like,  but  rendered 
larger-looking  by  thick  moustaches  and  ample  flowing 
beard — will  be  astonished  that  he  was  ever  so  slightly 
built  and  with  a face  so  small.  The  camera,  however, 
is  a surer  witness  than  any  that  memoiy  can  summon. 
And  in  this  case  it  gives,  as  it  does  not  always,  an  abso- 
lutely accurate  impression  of  the  original.  Such  was 
the  man  as  he  set  his  face  resolutely  toward  mission 
work  in  far-off  lands  — lithe,  sinewy',  with  not  an  ounce  of 
superfluous  flesh  ; with  a face  alert  and  determined,  eyes 


Personal  Characteristics 


39 


that  looked  you  through  and  through,  as  do  those  of 
the  great  preacher  of  Manchester,  Alexander  Maclaren. 
Indeed,  the  eyes  gave  the  distinctive  character  to  the 
face. 

‘ Chalmers  entered  Cheshunt  with  a culture  of  the 
slenderest,  and  a very  small  acquaintance  with  literature, 
native  or  foreign,  modern  or  ancient.  But  he  had  the 
advantage  that  every  Scotchman  I have  ever  known 
enjoys,  that  of  never  revealing  by  his  speech  the  slender- 
ness of  his  early  education.  In  the  case  of  Englishmen 
want  of  early  culture  is  often  revealed  by  some  vulgarity 
of  speech,  especially  in  the  use,  or  rather  the  abuse,  of 
the  letter  H,  a failing  which  in  many  cases  no  after 
training  can  eradicate.  The  Scotchman  may  have  his 
own  way  of  rendering  the  English  tongue,  and  to 
Southerners  he  may  be  difficult  to  understand,  but  no 
one  catches  in  his  speech  the  note  of  vulgarity. 

‘ The  training  at  Cheshunt  did  little  to  alter  his  manner 
of  speech.  He  would  have  been  a strange  Scotchman 
if  it  had.  Nor  did  it  do  much  to  make  him,  in  any 
department,  a scholar ; that  he  never  became.  He  put 
in  his  appearance  regularly  at  the  classes  assigned  to 
him,  and  did  his  best  to  prepare  for  the  periodical 
examinations  ; but  if  his  fame  had  rested  on  his  acquire- 
ments, it  would  be  very  near  a minus  quantity.  Men- 
tally he  left  the  college  pretty  much  as  he  had  entered  it. 
Over  Chalmers,  as  over  every  other  student  who  could 
appreciate  it,  the  spell  of  the  lovely  character  and  spirit 
of  the  beloved  Principal,  Dr.  Henry  Robert  Reynolds, 
was  strong,  and  exerted  a refining  and  uplifting  influ- 
ence. Beyond  this  the  Principal’s  teaching  gave  the 
young  Scotchman  a wider  outlook,  and  probably  softened 
a good  deal  the  hard  outlines  of  the  Scotch  theology  in 
which  he  had  been  brought  up,  throwing  into  greater 


40 


College  Life 

prominence  the  thought  of  the  Ditnne  Fatherhood. 
But  from  the  class-rooms  at  Cheshunt  he  drew  a general 
emotional  influence  rather  than  a compact  and  ordered 
knowledge  of  theolog\’.  Surely  a greater  result  1 “ If 

ever)'  one  that  loveth  is  born  of  God,  and  knoweth  God,” 
the  education  of  the  heart  is  more  than  that  of  the 
head. 

‘ During  his  stay  at  Cheshunt  he  continued  the  mission 
work  begun  at  Glasgow.  But  there  were  no  scenes  in 
Cheshunt  such  as  had  met  his  eyes  in  the  slums  of 
Glasgow.  I remember  his  telling  me,  in  later  years,  that, 
apart  from  its  cannibalism,  even  Xew  Guinea  presented 
no  sights  more  terrible  for  degradation  and  impurity 
than  Glasgow.  Among  the  sparser  and  less  t'irile 
dwellers  in  the  village  hard  by  the  college  he  now 
laboured.  He  visited  the  poorest  and  most  neglected  in 
their  homes,  preached  in  the  open  air,  and  carried  on 
a vigorous  campaign  against  drink. 

‘ The  College  at  Cheshunt  is  the  centre  of  a great 
number  of  village  stations,  to  which  the  College  chapel 
stands  as  a sort  of  tiny  cathedral,  and  the  Principal  of 
the  College  as  the  Bishop.  Each  of  these  village  churches 
was  placed  under  the  direction  of  a Dean,  who  was 
responsible  for  the  pastoral  work,  and  went  as  often  as 
possible  to  conduct  the  sert'ices  on  Sunday.  I suppose 
it  was  because  of  his  muscular  build  that  Chalmers  was 
appointed  Dean  to  the  farthest  off  of  these,  at  Hertford 
Heath,  some  eight  miles  from  the  College,  and  to  which 
no  railway  offered  any  alleviation  of  the  toil  of  walking. 
This  station  had  a special  interest,  as  it  was  under  the 
fostering  care  of  Professor  Johnson,  the  well-knotvn 
Sanskrit  scholar  of  Haileyburv’  College,  then  the  great 
training-school  for  the  Indian  Civil  Ser\'ice.  Between 
Professor  Johnson  and  Chalmers  a warm  friendship 


Spiritual  Characteristics  41 

sprung  up,  and  the  young  Scotch  student  was  an  ever 
welcome  guest  at  his  house.  Whenever  it  was  possible, 
and  he  had  sermons  to  deliver — a question  of  much 
moment  to  most  students — Chalmers  was  always  ready 
to  cover  the  sixteen  miles  involved  in  the  journey  to 
Hertford  Heath  and  back.  There  he  worked  his  way  to 
a warm  place  in  the  affections  of  the  little  company  who 
met  for  worship.  To  this  day  one  of  the  proudest 
memories  of  the  congregation,  for  which  a new  and 
beautiful  little  sanctuary  has  been  erected,  is  that  the 
Apostle  of  New  Guinea  was  one  of  their  earliest  Deans. 
In  work  of  this  kind  Chalmers  found  the  best  spiritual 
preparation  for  the  after  and  noble  work  of  his  life. 

‘ No  account  of  Chalmers  at  Cheshunt,  however,  would 
be  complete  without  reference  to  his  fellow  students, 
and  indeed  to  some  of  the  frolics  in  which  from  time  to 
time  they  were  associated.  Among  the  men  of  his  time 
Chalmers  was  a universal  favourite.  His  manliness, 
his  sincerity,  his  simplicity,  endeared  him  to  us  all. 
There  was  in  him  that  touch  of  nature  that  made  him 
kin.  To  use  John  Henry  Newman’s  favourite  motto, 
it  was  a relationship  of  “ Heart  to  heart."  Men  might 
think  little  of  his  intellectual  equipment,  but  every  noble 
soul  recognized  the  greatness  of  his  heart. 

‘ Chalmers  was  usually  the  ringleader  in  the  practical 
joking  of  his  time.  Some  will  perhaps  think  that  in 
a college  of  theology  such  things  should  be  unknown. 
May  I tell  them  for  their  comfort  that  most  of  the  men 
who  have  been  conspicuous  for  devoted  work  in  after 
years  had,  at  some  time  or  other,  some  part  in  such 
practical  joking  ? A too  demure  childhood  is  not  a good 
augury  for  the  after  life.  And  a too  serious  behaviour 
at  college  is  not  always  the  precursor  of  the  most 
devoted  work  in  the  service  of  Jesus  Christ.  A little 


42 


College  Life 

harmless  effervescence  shows  that  there  is  abundance  of 
life.  And  the  life  in  Chalmers  was  so  aboundinor  that  it 

o 

demanded  expression.  Long- sustained  thought  or  study 
was  an  impossibility*  to  him,  and  so  in  the  interval 
between  an  early  tea  and  supper,  occupied  by  most  men 
in  preparation  for  class  or  the  composition  of  sermons, 
he  often  grew  resdess,  and  would  wander  about  the 
corridors  bent  on  some  harmless  mischief,  to  the  dis- 
turbance of  the  more  studiously  inclined. 

‘ I remember  how  one  evening  when  an  extra  bad 
fit  of  resdessness  was  on  him  his  much  disturbed 
neighbours  resolved  on  condign  punishment.  He  was 
closely  fastened  in  his  room— the  key-hole  filled  with 
cayenne  pepper,  to  which  a match  was  applied,  so  that 
for  him  to  breathe  was  impossible,  and  he  had  to  throw 
^dde  his  window  and  put  out  his  head  to  get  air;  but 
as  soon  as  his  head  was  out  a voUey  of  water  was  fired 
upon  it  from  a sentinel  stationed  on  the  roof  above. 
Such  punishment,  however,  neither  aroused  revenge  nor 
cured  his  resdessness. 

‘ All  this  reminds  me  of  a story  told  by  Dr.  John  Ker : 
On  one  occasion,  ^^'dliam  Guthrie,  author  of  the 
Christia7i's  Gi'eai  I?iie}'est^  had  been  entertaining 
a company  with  mirth-provoking  anecdotes,  and  being 
called  on  afterwards  to  pray,  he  poured  out  his  heart 
with  such  deep-felt  fervour  to  God  that  all  were  melted. 
^\’hen  they  rose  from  their  knees,  Durham  of  Glasgow, 
a ‘ srave  solid  man,’  took  him  bv  the  hand  and  said, 

‘ ^\’iUie,  you  are  a happy  man ; if  I had  laughed  as 
much  as  you  did  a while  ago,  I coidd  not  have 
praved  for  four-and-twenty  hours.’  ” Chalmers  was 
like  Willie  Guthrie— he  could  play  a prank,  and  right 
upon  it  pray.  Surely  not  only  the  happiest,  but  the 
truest  way  for  a Christian ! Chrisdanity  does  not 


Chalmers^  Missionary  Enthusiasm  43 

mean  the  exclusion  of  fun  from  the  life,  but  its 
sanctification. 

‘ The  New  River  runs  through  the  beautiful  grounds 
at  Cheshunt.  My  most  vivid  memories  of  Chalmers  are 
of  him  on  that  river — steering  a raft  or  being  upset  and 
floundering  in  the  water.  Against  both  the  rules  of  the 
College,  and  of  the  New  River  Company,  who  owned 
the  river,  Chalmers  persisted  in  launching  a raft  and 
disporting  himself  thereon — working  it  with  all  the  skill 
of  a Canadian  lumber-man.  He  ran  along  it  almost 
as  a squirrel  would,  but  every  now  and  then  he  would 
lose  his  balance  and  disappear  in  the  water.  I have 
often  thought  that  the  best  preparation  he  had  for  many 
an  adventurous  voyage  in  New  Guinea  waters  was  on 
that  raft. 

‘ But  whether  at  play  or  work,  in  class-room  or  field,  in 
mirth  or  in  prayer,  his  heart  was  always  beating  for  the 
things  of  God  and  His  kingdom.  The  great  enthusiasm 
for  humanity  kindled  by  Jesus  Christ  burned  within  that 
heart,  and  made  his  life  a living  sacrifice.  He  fulfilled  to 
the  full  the  great  thought  of  Joubert — “ Let  us  be  men 
with  men,  but  always  children  before  God ; for  in  His 
eyes  we  are  but  children.”  “He  carried  the  child’s  heart 
with  him  through  life,”  as  Baldwin  Brown  in  his  ordina- 
tion charge  advised  me  to  do.  And  so  he  became 
“ The  Great  Heart  of  New  Guinea,”  as  Robert  Louis 
Stevenson  called  him.  One  of  the  most  cherished 
memories  of  my  life  is  that  for  two  brief  years  I held 
fellowship  with  him,  and  so  I can  claim  a friend  among 
the  noble  army  of  martyrs.’ 

James  Chalmers  and  Ralph  Wardlaw  Thompson  were 
fellow  students  at  Cheshunt.  They  were  far  asunder 
in  many  respects;  they  were  alike  in  their  love  of 
healthy,  harmless  fun.  The  future  Apostle  of  New 


44 


College  Life 

Guinea  and  the  future  Foreign  Secretary’  of  the  London 
Missionar}*  Society  were  confederates  in  many  a raid 
upon  the  peace  of  their  more  studious  brethren.  And 
the  sur\'ivor  concludes,  as  only  he  can,  these  remi- 
niscences of  college  days. 

‘ My  acquaintance  with  James  Chalmers  commenced 
when  he  entered  Cheshunt  Colles^e.  at  the  besinnino^  of 
the  session  in  September,  1862.  He  did  not  enter  for 
the  full  course,  and  as  I had  been  a s^sion  at  college 
before  he  arrived,  our  knowledge  of  each  other  was 
entirely  outside  the  class-room.  !My  recollections  of  his 
Cheshunt  career  do  not  point  to  any  conspicuous  mental 
power,  nor  to  any  reputation  gained  as  a student ; yet 
I imagine  few  men  have  left  a more  vivid  or  a more 
pleasant  impression  on  their  fellow  students  than  he  did. 
As  I recall  the  memories  of  those  happy  days  of  student 
life,  through  the  light  of  later  years,  I see  how  the 
qualities  which  won  our  respect  and  affection  then, 
were  the  qualities  which  were  most  conspicuous  and 
influential  in  his  later  career. 

‘ The  big,  powerful  Scotchman,  with  his  exuberance 
of  animal  spirits  and  enthusiasm,  was  not  long  in  dis- 
covering that  his  fellow  students,  though  in  training 
for  the  ministrj',  were  not  under  strict  monastic  disci- 
pline. The  monotony  of  student  Hfe  was  relieved  from 
time  to  time  by  an  outburst  of  the  spirit  of  mischief  and 
practical  joking.  This  undoubtedly  served  as  a most 
useful  safety-valve,  was  almost  invariably  thoroughly 
good-natured  and  innocent;  but  while  the  fit  was  on 
study  was  impossible,  and  any  unfortunate  who  could 
not  enter  into  the  spirit  of  the  fun  prompdy  became  the 
butt  of  the  good-humoured  mischief  of  his  neighbours. 
Chalmers  entered  into  this  side  of  college  life  with 
great  zest,  and  was  soon  known  as  one  of  the  most 


45 


Practical  Joking 

prominent  of  a little  band  of  mischievous  spirits,  quorum 
pars  magna  fui^  who  were  ringleaders  in  those  out- 
breaks. Many  a laugh  have  some  of  us  had  when  we 
have  met  in  the  soberer  days  of  ministerial  life,  and 
talked  over  those  merry  times  when  we  were  students, 
and  in  all  such  reminiscences  the  name  and  figure  of 
Chalmers  had  a prominent  place. 

‘ Who,  for  instance,  that  was  at  Cheshunt  at  the  time 
can  forget  the  awful  apparition  of  the  great  brown  bear  ? 
Chalmers  had  made  the  acquaintance  of  Mr.  Tugwell, 
curate  at  Goff’s  Oak.  Mr.  Tugwell  had  been  for  a time 
a missionary  among  the  North  American  Indians,  and 
had  brought  home  with  him  some  interesting  curios. 
Among  others,  there  was  an  enormous  bear’s  skin,  with 
the  head  and  paws  complete,  prepared  by  the  Indians 
to  be  worn  in  some  of  their  dances.  Chalmers  promptly 
borrowed  this  skin,  and  brought  it  down  by  night  to 
the  College.  He  confided  his  secret  to  only  one  or  two 
confederates,  and  at  the  close  of  a very  quiet  evening, 
when  prayers  were  over,  and  the  men  were  all  in  the 
dining-hall  at  supper,  the  door  was  suddenly  flung  open 
and  the  bear  appeared,  standing  on  its  hind-legs,  and 
roaring  ominously.  It  shambled  quickly  into  the  room 
among  the  startled  students,  made  for  one  of  the  quietest, 
subjected  him  to  a terrible  hug,  and  then  pursued  others. 
At  this  juncture  a confederate  turned  out  the  gas,  and 
the  scene  of  excitement  in  the  dark  may  be  better 
imagined  than  described.  When  the  light  was  turned 
on  again  it  was  discovered  that  it  was  Chalmers  who 
was  masquerading  in  this  fashion.  For  a week  after 
that  bear  was  the  central  figure  in  numberless  jokes. 
I shall  never  forget  the  abject  terror  on  the  face  of  an 
old  Irishman  who  used  to  come  into  the  College  as 
a vender  of  fruit  and  other  luxuries,  when  the  bear 


46  College  Life 

suddenly  met  him  at  the  end  of  the  corridor,  and  seized 
him  and  his  basket  in  its  ample  embrace. 

‘ This  same  exuberance  of  animal  spirits  and  love  of 
adventure  were  carried  through  his  missionary  life. 
Those  who  went  out  with  him  to  the  South  Seas  can 
tell  of  the  impression  he  produced  upon  the  sailors. 
"UTiile  detained  on  Niue  by  the  wreck  of  the  second 
John  Williams,  he  narrowly  escaped  drowning  in  his 
effort  to  emulate  the  natives  in  the  exciting,  but  to  a 
novice  very  perilous  amusement  of  surf  swimming  with 
the  aid  of  a small  plank.  WTen  I met  the  members 
of  the  New  Guinea  District  Committee  at  Vatorata  in 
1897,  it  was  remarked  that  Tamate  could  not  be  well, 
for  he  was  so  quiet ! Usually  at  the  annual  gatherings 
of  the  committee  he  was  a moving  spirit  in  fun  and 
mischief,  and  when  the  serious  labours  and  deliberations 
of  the  day  were  over,  he  would  devise  some  practical 
joke,  at  the  expense  of  the  more  sober  members  of 
the  committee. 

‘■UTLile  the  spirit  of  fun  was  so  strongly  marked, 
I should  be  very  sony^  to  give  the  impression  that  it 
was  the  most  prominent  feature  in  the  college  life  of 
my  dear  friend,  James  Chalmers.  Quite  as  pronounced, 
and  all  the  more  influential  because  of  its  association 
with  such  lively  qualities,  was  his  deep  religiousness. 
His  faith  was  very  simple,  very  decided,  and  had  all 
the  fervour  of  the  Highlander.  The  earnest  outpouring 
of  his  soul  in  the  broad  Doric  of  his  W’’est  Highland 
speech,  made  a deep  impression  upon  us  all  at  the  first 
of  our  students’  weekly  prayer  meetings  in  which  he 
took  part,  and  his  work  at  the  village  stations,  especially 
at  Hertford  Heath,  left  an  impression  so  deep  that  his 
memory  still  remains  among  those  who  are  left  of  the 
village  congregations  at  the  time  of  his  student  life. 


47 


Power  as  a Speaker 

I remember  going'  o'ver  to  Hertford  Heath  for  the 
Sunday  just  after  he  had  paid  his  first  visit  to  that 
station.  I found  the  little  congregation  in  quite  a 
furore  of  excitement,  in  consequence  of  the  powerful 
appeals  he  had  made  to  them  in  the  missionary  interest. 
His  personal  life  of  simple  earnest  devotion  was  the 
source  of  all  his  enthusiasm  in  speaking  for  Christ, 
while  his  dashing  fearlessness  of  spirit  gave  a certain 
tone  to  his  utterances  which  made  them  very  impressive. 

‘After  Chalmers  left  college  he  was  for  twelve  months 
under  my  uncle.  Dr.  John  Wardlaw’s  care,  with  other 
missionary  students,  at  Farquhar  House,  Highgate. 
I had  the  opportunity  of  seeing  him  frequently  there. 
It  was  my  privilege,  shortly  after  setdement  in  Glasgow, 
to  take  part  in  his  marriage  to  his  noble-minded  first 
wife.  Miss  Hercus,  of  Greenock.  Then  he  went  abroad, 
and  for  several  years  we  had  very  little  communication 
with  each  other.  He  gave  me  a very  warm  welcome 
when  I entered  upon  my  present  duties  as  Foreign 
Secretary;  and  since  then  I have  by  correspondence 
and  by  personal  contact,  got  to  know  a good  deal  more 
of  my  old  fellow  student. 

‘ He  had  his  faults,  as  we  all  have,  he  was  too  impul- 
sive ; he  was  sometimes  inclined  to  be  very  strongly 
prejudiced,  and  to  take  up  very  unreasonable  positions ; 
nor  was  it  easy  to  get  him  to  alter  his  views  when  once 
formed.  But  these  failings  were  but  spots  on  the  sun ; 
the  great  qualities  which  impressed  his  fellow  students 
remained  with  him,  and  were  his  power  throughout  his 
missionary  life,  an  intense  humanity,  absolute  fearless- 
ness, a beautiful  simplicity  of  nature,  and  absence  of 
selfishness,  and  a whole-hearted  devotion  to  the  work 
of  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  to  which  he  had  given  his 
liie,  and  for  which  he  was  prepared  to  do  anything 


48  College  Life 

that  might  be  required  in  the  interests  of  the  great 
cause. 

‘ Some  of  his  fellow  students  were  greatly  amused  when 
they  heard  of  him  at  Rarotonga  as  presiding  over  a 
Training  Institution  for  the  preparation  of  native  evan- 
gelists. We  could  scarcelv  imag-ine  our  old  associate 
tethered  to  the  desk,  or  methodically  teaching  and  lec- 
turing ; yet  when  I saw  the  same  Chalmers  at  Saguane. 
walking  up  and  down  the  sanded  floor  of  his  little  rush 
school-chapel,  and  for  the  love  of  Christ  teaching  some 
three-and-twenty  wild  5'oung  New  Guineans  arithmetic, 
geograph}',  and  the  English  language,  I fully  understood 
and  appreciated  the  way  in  which  he  wotdd  undertake 
the  duties  of  a tutor  of  theological  students.  The  great 
missionar}'  explorer,  with  his  boundless  energ}',  seemed 
grotesquely  out  of  place  in  giving  an  elementar}-  lesson 
to  the  young  New  Guineans  by  means  of  the  Gouin 
system  of  language-teaching,  but  he  did  not  feel  it  to  be 
so  ; it  was  work  which  had  to  be  done,  there  was  no  one 
else  to  do  it,  he  therefore  quite  naturally  and  simply 
took  it  up,  prepared  to  hand  it  over  to  any  one  who 
could  do  it  better,  or  to  stick  to  it  as  long  as  it  was 
necessarv'  for  him  to  do  so.  I laughed  heartily  with  him, 
and  I fear  chaffed  him  unmercifully,  but  none  the  less, 
I got  a new  view  of  his  simple  and  noble  character,  and 
admired  and  honoured  him  more  than  ever  for  his  devo- 
tion to  duty.’ 

Chalmers  spent  two  years  only  at  Cheshimt.  He 
entered  the  College  in  September,  1862,  and  he  left  it 
at  the  end  of  his  second  session,  in  June,  1864,  During 
his  first  year,  the  President,  the  Rev.  Henr\'  Robert 
Reynolds,  BjV.,  who  had,  as  recendy  as  i860,  relin- 
quished the  pastorate  of  East  Parade  Congregational 
Church,  Leeds,  suffered  a severe  breakdown  in  health. 


JAMES  CHALMERS  AND  HIS  FIRST  WIFE  IN  1865. 


49 


Cheshunt  College  in  1863 

This  necessitated  changes  in  the  teaching  staff,  and  to 
some  extent  disorganized  the  educational  arrangements 
of  the  College.  It  is  already  obvious  to  the  reader  that  , 
hard  study  and  theological  reading  were  not  Chalmers’ 
strong  points.  The  bent  of  his  mind,  the  condition  of 
the  College,  and  last  but  not  least,  the  state  of  his 
finances,  all  tended  in  the  direction  of  making  his  college 
course  as  brief  as  possible. 

In  1861  the  London  Missionary  Society  had  founded 
a college  at  Highgate,  intended  for  the  completion  of 
the  training  of  their  students.  The  theory  was  that 
the  student  should  spend  a year  there,  and  devote  him- 
self to  attending  lectures  on  comparative  religion  and 
upon  missionary  work  and  history,  and  to  the  beginning, 
as  far  as  possible,  of  a study  of  the  language  of  the 
people  among  whom  he  was  likely  to  labour,  and 
further  to  gain  such  elementary  medical  and  mechanical 
knowledge  as  might  prove  of  special  service  to  him 
when  abroad.  To  this  college,  in  1864,  Chalmers  was 
transferred. 

Cheshunt  College  has  always  been  limited  in  the 
number  of  its  students.  In  Chalmers’  first  year  it  con- 
tained twenty -seven  students ; in  his  second,  twenty- 
six.  It  has  never  had  more  than  forty-two  or  forty-three. 
It  is  residential,  and  in  consequence  the  influence  of 
personality,  the  action  and  reaction  of  man  upon  man, 
is  one  of  the  most  potent  and  abiding  forces  in  the 
training.  Dr.  Reynolds  had  many  and  great  gifts, 
but  perhaps  the  greatest  of  them  all  was  his  constant 
perception  of  the  heavenly  vision,  and  his  power  of 
making  it  visible  to  those  who  came  under  the  magnetic 
influence  and  abiding  sway  of  his  own  deep  spiritu- 
ality. Cheshunt  has  never  lacked  scholars,  and  among 
Chalmers’  fellow  students  were  two  who  graduated 

D 


50 


College  Life 

brilllantl}’  at  the  University  of  London,  one  taking  the 
Master  of  Arts  degree  in  both  classics  and  philosophy, 
and  the  other  taking  the  gold  medal,  the  same  year, 
in  philosoph}",  at  the  same  degree.  There  was  the 
outside  stimulus  of  the  University  of  London  for  the 
stronger  students ; there  was  the  natural,  human  ri\'alry 
of  the  class-room ; there  was  the  abiding  and  powerful 
attraction  towards  theology,  exegesis,  and  philosophy, 
necessarily  strongly  felt  by  men  looking  forward  to 
a life  spent  in  the  ministiy’’  of  the  Gospel.  And  over 
all  and  above  all  were  the  charm  and  almost  resistless 
attractive  power  of  Hemy'  Robert  Reynolds— the 
St.  Anselm,  as  Chalmers  calls  him,  of  Cheshunt — the 
man  of  quite  unforgetable  sweetness,  and  uplifting  and 
spiritual  insight. 

Dr.  Reynolds  and  James  Chalmers  were  as  far  asunder 
as  the  Poles  in  many  respects ; j'et  they  learned  in  the 
close  relationship  of  life  at  Cheshunt  to  respect  and  to 
love  one  another.  A bond  was  established  that  only 
strengthened  until  the  elder  man  passed  within  the  veil. 
A letter  of  Chalmers  to  Dr.  Reynolds,  dated  December 
II,  1895,  lies  before  us  as  we  write.  He  says : — 

‘ Your  giving  me  The  Lamps  of  the  Temple  was  an 
Inspiration.  I have  been  listening  to  you  again  and 
again,  and  drinking  in  new  life  from  the  Water  of  Life 
flowing  through  you.  I have  read  them  all,  and  to-day 
begin  them  again.  At  times  of  devotion  may  they  be 
to  me  as  the  very  Lamp  of  God.  These  Lamps  will 
bring  back  to  every  Cheshunt  fellow  the  past,  and  flash 
anew  through  his  soul  thoughts  and  inspirations  that 
In  the  past  were  his  through  you.  God  spare  you  to  us 
5'et  a while ! To  know  you  are  with  us  is  a comfort. 
I carry-  with  me,  and  it  will  remain  with  me,  your  sacred 
benediction.’ 


Personal  Magnetism  51 

Dr.  Reynolds,  writing  long  years  later  of  these  college 
days,  said : ‘ Chalmers  gave  me  the  idea  of  lofty  con- 
secration to  the  Divine  work  of  saving  those  for  whom 
Christ  died.  His  faith  was  simple,  unswerving,  and 
enthusiastic,  and  while  he  could  throw  a giant’s  strength 
into  all  kinds  of  work,  he  was  gentle  as  a child  and 
submissive  as  a soldier.  He  used  to  pray  for  help  as  if 
he  were  at  his  mother’s  knee,  and  to  preach  as  though 
he  were  sure  of  the  message  he  had  then  to  deliver.’ 

Thus  though  the  scholastic  opportunities  of  Cheshunt 
did  little  for  Chalmers,  its  spiritual  life  tended  to  deepen 
even  his  devotion  and  enthusiasm  and  intense  longing 
for  the  salvation  of  men.  The  testimonies  from  his 
fellow  students,  quoted  above,  show  that  Chalmers  was 
a force  in  the  spiritual  life  of  the  College.  And  his 
vigorous  physical  life,  his  high  spirit,  his  love  of  fun, 
his  freedom  from  all  conventions,  combined  to  render 
his  brief  stay  at  Cheshunt  a memorable  experience  for 
all  who  shared  it  with  him.  William  Harris  was  not  the 
only  man  who  counted  it  one  of  the  great  joys  of  his 
student  life  to  have  known  James  Chalmers. 


CHAPTER  III 

‘IN  PERILS  OF  WATERS’ 

The  last  year  in  the  home  training  of  a missionary 
student  is  usually  a season  of  uncertainty,  unrest,  and 
mental  excitement.  The  future  field  of  sendee  has  to 
be  determined  by  the  Directors  of  his  Society.  The 
question  of  engagement  and  marriage  is  often  very 
prominent,  and  sometimes  very  disturbing.  If  the 
definite  field  of  sendee  is  known,  there  are  tentative 
efforts  to  acquire  the  elements  of  the  language,  and 
to  store  up  information  about  the  country  and  the 
people  where  the  life-work  is  to  be  carried  on.  In 
addition  all  the  harassing  and  yet  important  questions 
of  outfit  have  to  be  dealt  wdth,  frequently  in  the  face  of 
verj'  scanty  means  for  their  consideration. 

Chalmers  was  no  exception  to  this  rule.  He  had 
had  many  searchings  of  heart  and  many  trying  experi- 
ences, but  in  the  course  of  the  year  1865  his  future 
course  began  to  shape  itself  both  certainly  and  attrac- 
tively. He  writes  in  his  autobiography  : — 

‘ After  leaving  Highgate  I went  for  some  months  to 
Plumstead,  near  to  ^\^oolwich,  where  wdth  my  lifelong 
friend,  SaviUe,  we  studied  Rarotongan  wdth  the  Rev. 
George  Gill  of  Rectorj'  Place,  w’ho  had  laboured  for 
many  years  as  a missionary  in  Rarotonga.  We  lived  in 
the  very"  happy  home  of  the  Rev.  Hugh  Hercus,  my 
future  wdfe’s  uncle.  On  October  17,  1865, 1 was  married 
to  Miss  Jane  Hercus,  daughter  of  Peter  Hercus,  Esq., 


53 


Marriage  to  Miss  Hercus 

Greenock,  and  afterwards  of  New  Zealand.  She  was 
a worthy  Congregationalist,  and  a member  of  the 
Greenock  Church.  Her  grandfather  Hercus  was  the 
first  minister  of  the  church,  and  her  grandfather 
Robertson  was  a well-known  Congregationalist  minister 
in  the  north  and  west  of  Scotland  in  the  early  years 
of  the  century.  She  was  a whole-hearted  missionary.’ 

Miss  Hercus  was  a lady  of  quite  exceptional  gifts  and 
graces.  She  was  the  eldest  of  four  children,  and  was 
left  motherless  at  the  early  age  of  five  years.  By  nature 
bright  and  happy,  the  responsibility  which  fell  upon  her 
as  the  eldest  child  rendered  her  staid  and  thoughtful 
and  eminently  practical.  Her  mother’s  father,  the  Rev. 
George  Robertson,  died  in  1854,  when  Miss  Hercus  was 
about  fourteen,  and  the  widow  removed  to  Kirkwall  in 
the  Orkneys,  whither  her  granddaughter  went  to  take 
care  of  her.  There  Miss  Hercus  remained  for  five  years, 
giving  herself  absolutely  to  the  engrossing  duties  of  her 
charge.  And  she  did  this  at  the  age  when  such  restraint 
is  most  irksome,  and  yet  in  such  a way  as  to  appear 
unconscious  that  it  involved  any  sacrifice.  She  was 
trained  from  early  childhood  in  Christian  life  and 
thought,  though  she  did  not  become  a Church  member 
until  1858.  In  that  year  also  her  grandmother  died, 
and  she  returned  to  Greenock.  In  1861  her  parents 
removed  to  Glasgow,  and  here  she  met  her  future 
husband.  She  spent  some  time  in  Leeds  as  a school- 
mistress. Here  she  lodged  with  a family  named  Large, 
and  became  -"^ery  intimate  with  the  daughter  Lizzie,  who 
afterwards  became  the  second  Mrs.  Chalmers.  Before  her 
marriage,  in  1867,  she  also  spent  some  time  at  Inveraray. 

Possibly  in  no  department  of  Christian  work  is  the 
choice  of  a life-partner  more  important  than  in  the 
mission  field.  The  two  have  to  live  together  under 


54 


^In  Perils  of  Waters' 


circumstances  which  test  to  the  uttermost  every  weak- 
ness of  body,  of  temper,  of  spirit,  of  faith.  On  the  other 
hand,  in  hardly  any  other  walk  of  life  can  a woman 
by  her  health,  her  tact,  her  sympathetic  support,  and 
her  wise  and  zealous  co-operation,  be  such  a true 
helpmeet  to  her  husband. 

The  annals  of  the  London  ^lissionary  Society  are 
rich  in  records  of  the  noble  and  successful  and  devoted 
lives  of  the  wives  of  missionaries.  And  }'et  in  the  vast 
majority  of  cases  these  lives  do  not  make  much  stir, 
they  seldom  receive,  except  from  the  few  who  really 
know  the  facts,  their  due  meed  of  appreciation  and 
gratitude,  and  although  they  are  often  ‘succourers  of 
many,’  their  deeds  are  not  well  in  the  public  eye. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  same  records  show  not  a few 
cases  of  lives  crippled  or  even  ruined  by  unsuitable 
and  incompetent  wives.  !Most  frequently  the  failure  is 
on  the  side  of  health.  So  often  does  this  occur  that  not 
a few  missionary  administrators  now  think  that  the 
medical  standard  should  be  inflexible,  and  that  if  the 
slightest  sign  of  weakness  is  present  the  bar  to  foreign 
service  should  be  absolute.  This  has  always  been 
a matter  of  great  concern  and  of  great  difficulty  to 
missionary  boards.  Perhaps  the  chief  change  of  recent 
years  is  a different  inclination  of  the  balance.  \Miereas 
if  there  was  a slight  doubt,  it  was  usually  given  in  favour 
of  allowing  the  woman  to  go  abroad,  now  it  is  frequently 
given  against  that  course.  And  in  our  judgement  this  is 
wise,  and  had  it  been  acted  upon  more  rigidly  in  the 
past,  much  sorrow  and  failure  and  imnecessary  expense 
would  have  been  avoided. 

But  great  as  are  the  hindrances  to  mission  work 
caused  by  ill-health,  these  are  as  nothing  to  those  some- 
times caused  by  defective  moral  and  spiritual  quality. 


55 


The  Importance  of  Health 

The  woman  who  goes  to  the  mission  field  with  a man, 
and  is  yet  not  in  fullest  accord  with  him  as  to  the  great 
work  and  purposes  of  his  life,  inflicts  a grave  injury 
upon  both  him  and  the  cause  dear  to  his  heart.  Every 
mission  can  show  such  cases.  They  naturally  do  not 
figure  in  reports,  but  now  and  then  the  fruidessness  of 
a promising  career  is  due  to  the  fact  that  his  life  is  linked 
to  one  who  cannot  govern  her  tongue,  or  who  will  not 
throw  herself  into  her  husband’s  work,  or  who  cannot 
live  at  peace  with  others.  And  the  worst  of  such  cases 
is  that  they  often  seem  beyond  the  reach  of  cure,  and 
inflict  a daily  crucifixion  upon  those  who  have  to  endure 
what  is  incapable  of  improvement. 

But  in  the  case  of  Chalmers  there  was  almost  absolute 
freedom  from  every  risk  of  this  kind.  Her  early 
training  had  been  an  admirable  discipline  for  the  work 
and  experience  which  came  upon  her  as  the  wife  of 
such  a husband.  It  is  possible  that  there  was  in  Miss 
Hercus  a strain  of  physical  weakness.  But  this  did  not 
prevent  her  from  giving  years  of  happy  and  fruitful 
labour  to  the  great  cause  upon  which  her  heart  was 
fixed.  In  Chalmers’  words,  written  long  years  after  she 
had  passed  away,  ‘ She  was  a whole-hearted  missionary.’ 
Chalmers  in  a letter  from  Highgate,  dated  March  17, 
1865,  deals  with  his  views  and  hopes  at  this  time : — 

‘ I have  delayed  writing  till  the  time  would  be  fixed 
when  we  should  sail,  and  now  that  it  is  about  settled, 
I shall  write.  It  has  been  decided  that  I shall  go  to 
Mangaia,  in  the  Hervey  Group  of  Islands,  as  a beginning. 
I shall  have  the  charge  of  a church  with  over  500 
members  and  a school  of  about  700  children.  The 
island  has  a population  of  3,000.  I do  not  expect  to 
remain  long  in  it,  as  I hope  to  have  more  direct 
missionary  work.  There  are  still  very  many  islands  in 


^In  Perils  of  Waters^ 


56 

the  South  Seas  where  Christ  is  unknown,  and  to  some 
of  these  I live  in  the  hope  of  yet  carrj-ing  the  know- 
ledge of  Him.  To-night  I feel  the  desire  stronger  to 
preach  Christ  among  the  heathen  than  I did  three  years 
ago.  My  desire  grows,  and  as  I become  better  acquainted 
with  redeeming  love,  I long  to  go.  God  has  helped  and  is 
still  blessing  my  labours,  and  I feel  assured  that  He  whose 
the  work  is  will  ever  continue  to  bless  them — when  put 
forth  in  His  name — for  His  glor}'  and  the  good  of  man. 

‘ You  recollect  our  last  missionax}’  ship  was  lost,  and 
they  have  now  begun  building  a new  one  in  Aberdeen, 
which  cannot  be  ready  before  the  end  of  the  year ; so 
that  we  shall  be  in  this  countiy  till  then.  To  send  us 
out  before  then  would  entail  an  expense  of  £5^0,  and 
the  ship  would  sail  without  missionaries,  to  which  of 
course  the  churches  would  object. 

‘ Xothing  has  as  yet  been  decided  as  to  what  I am  to 
do  after  June.  I have  no  wish  to  return  here,  and 
I have  spoken  to  ^Ir.  M'ardlaw,  our  president,  about 
remaining  north,  and  continuing  my  studies  privately. 
As  it  is,  here  I have  ven,’  little  to  do  with  the  College, 
and  what  I do,  I do  privately.  I attend  the  hospital  for 
medicine,  but  that  I could  get  in  Glasgow,  besides  help 
from  a medical  friend  I became  acquainted  with  in  the 
City  Mission.  My  other  studies  I could  pursue  alone. 
I should  Hke  your  opinion  on  this.  I feel  I must 
study  botany,  for  the  use  of  my  medicines.  I am  getting 
on  pretty  well  with  the  language,  and  hope  to  be  able  to 
preach  in  it  soon  after  getting  to  the  island.’ 

The  next  letter  is  of  interest  not  only  because  it  gives 
a few  details  of  his  life  at  this  time,  but  also  because 
it  was  written  to  the  *\Iiss  Large  referred  to  above. 
There  had  been  some  understanding  that  as  soon 
as  the  young  couple  were  established  in  Rarotonga 


Longing  to  go  abroad  57 

Miss  Large  should  come  out  to  help  them  in  their  work. 
The  letter  is  dated  Plumstead,  July  25,  1865. 

‘What  do  you  think  now  of  our  long  absence— longer 
than  either  Jeanie  or  I contracted  for  ? Dear  lassie, 
I wish  I could  see  her ! She  is  in  Inveraray  now,  and 
expects  soon  to  go  to  Quid  Ireland.  As  yet  we  cannot 
fix  the  consummation  of  all  things.  I wish  we  could,  and 
soon  too.  I expect  to  go  north  in  October,  and  hope  to 
be  married  immediately  afterwards.  The  new  ship  is 
expected  in  the  Thames  in  September,  and  will  be  sure 
to  sail  this  year.  How  long  we  are  kept  waiting  ere  we 
get  into  full  harness ! May  God  in  His  infinite  love  help 
us  to  make  up  for  this  in  the  future  somewhat ! I trust 
and  pray  ours  may  be  a happy  and  useful  future— that 
we  may  be  the  means  of  saving  multitudes  of  souls,  of 
cheering  many  on  their  way  heavenwards. 

‘ I am  now  lodging  with  Jeanie’s  uncle,  and  am  very 
much  at  home.  I spent  a few  holidays  lately  at  South- 
end,  but  have  now  got  back  to  work.  I wish  Jeanie  and 
you  were  near  here,  we  could  have  such  fine  times  of  it 
just  now.  Jeanie  speaks  of  our  spending  a few  days 
after  our  marriage,  and  just  on  our  way  south  to  sail, 
with  you  in  Leeds. 

‘ Good-bye  now.  May  God  bless  you  and  be  with 
you  ever.  On  Christ  lean  for  all  support.  He  alone 
can  strengthen  you.  Be  strong  in  faith  in  Him,  for  He 
alone  can  save  and  bless  and  make  truly  happy.  Let 
Him  have  all  our  hearts.’ 

Chalmers’  ordination  ^ took  place  two  days  after  his 

* This  service  took  place  on  October  19  in  Finchley  (East  End) 
Chapel.  The  Rev.  William  Gill  described  the  field  of  labour ; the 
Rev.  John  Corbin,  of  Hornsey,  asked  the  questions  and  offered  the 
ordination  prayer ; and  the  Rev.  J.  S.  Wardlaw,  M.A.,  delivered 
the  charge.  The  Rev.  Thomas  Hill  and  the  Rev.  S.  W.  McAll, 
minister  of  the  chapel,  also  took  part. 


'In  Perils  of  Waters^ 


58 

marriage,  and  after  it  the  young  couple  were  eager  to 
get  to  their  appointed  work.  In  the  normal  order 
of  things  they  ought  to  have  been  settled  in  their  new 
home  within  a year  after  leaving  England.  But  for 
them  it  was  ordained  otherwise.  It  was  not  until  May 
20,  1867,  that  they  set  foot  upon  Rarotonga,  and  their 
experiences  in  the  interval  form  a striking  chapter  in 
the  annals  of  missionary  adventure. 

In  those  da^-s  there  was  no  regular  communication 
with  any  of  the  South  Pacific  Islands.  Even  to-day 
there  is  a regular  mail  connexion  with  only  one  or 
two  groups.  Hence  for  the  work  of  visiting  its  widely 
scattered  stations  in  Polynesia  the  Society’  has  to  employ 
their  own  vessel.  The  first  great  extension  of  London 
Missionary'  Society  work  in  Polynesia  was  due  to  the 
energy'  and  enthusiasm  of  John  M^lliams.  His  visit 
to  England  in  1834  aroused  great  interest  in  the 
Society’s  work,  and  led  to  the  purchase  of  a vessel  of 
400  tons  called  the  Camden,  whose  duty  it  was  to  visit 
the  missionary'  stations  regularly,  conveying  missionaries 
and  their  wives,  native  agents  and  teachers,  and  all 
necessary  stores.  During  the  Camden’s  first  voyage, 
in  1839,  John  Williams  was  murdered  by  the  natives 
on  the  island  of  Erromanga.  The  Camden  returned 
to  England  in  1843,  and  was  then  sold.  As  a memo- 
rial of  the  martyr  the  children  of  England  raised  over 
£6,000  to  build  a new  missionary  ship,  to  be  called 
the  John  Williams,  and  from  1844  until  1864  the 
vessel  did  noble  service.  In  the  latter  year,  on 
December  10,  she  became  a total  wreck  on  the  reef 
of  Pukapuka  or  Danger  Island.  The  children  of  a 
later  generation  enabled  the  Society  to  build  a second 
John  Williams,  and  in  this  entirely  new  vessel  Chalmers 
and  his  wife  sailed  for  Australia  on  January  4,  1866. 


59 


The  Missionary  Ships 

‘The  first  John  Williams,’  writes  Chalmers  in  his 
autobiography,  ‘ was  wrecked  on  Danger  Island,  and 
to  replace  her  a very  fine  clipper  ship  was  built  in 
Aberdeen,  and  also  named  the  John  Williams.  In  her, 
on  January  4,  1866,  we  left  Gravesend.  The  vessel 
was  commanded  by  Captain  Williams,  and  his  mate 
was  Mr.  Turpie,  afterwards  so  well  known  as  captain 
of  the  third  John  Williams. 

‘ We  had  a rough  time  in  the  Channel,  and  at  one 
time  it  was  thought  we  should  certainly  be  wrecked, 
and  every  soul  lost.  We  met,  and  survived  the  gale 
of  wind  in  which  the  London  was  lost.  We  suffered 
a good  deal  of  damage,  and  put  into  Weymouth  for 
repairs,  where  we  remained  for  over  a fortnight.  The 
missionaries  and  their  wives  landed,  accepting  the 
kind  and  pressing  invitation  of  the  many  friends 
ashore ; but  my  wite  and  I preferred  staying  on 
board.  Mrs.  Williams,  the  captain’s  wife,  was  also 
on  board.  Throughout  January  the  weather  con- 
tinued bad.  Towards  the  end  of  the  month  we 
weighed  anchor,  and  stood  away  to  sunnier  climes. 

‘ We  had  a long  stiff  beat  in  getting  to  the  South, 
but  how  we  did  enjoy  the  warm  weather  when  we  got 
into  it ! Our  party  consisted  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Michie, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Watson,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Davies,  bound 
for  Samoa ; Mr.  and  Mrs.  Saville,  bound  for  Huahine ; 
and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers,  bound  for  Rarotonga. 
I am  now  (1900)  alone  in  the  field.* 

A letter  dated.  Ship  John  Williams,  near  Australia, 
April  25,  1866,  gives  some  pleasant  glimpses  of  life  on 
the  missionary  ship  after  their  stormy  start  was  over : — 

‘ We  are  now  within  900  miles  of  Adelaide,  and  hope 
to  get  there  in  a few  days.  It  has  been  a truly  happy, 
pleasant,  and  blessed  time  to  us  all.  We  have  felt  none 


6o 


^In  Perils  of  Waters' 


of  the  monotony  of  sea  life,  so  much  spoken  about,  but 
on  the  contrary  have  enjoyed  change  and  variety  in  the 
heavens,  sea,  and  atmosphere. 

‘ The  Bible  class  and  prayer  meetings  \rith  the  men 
have  been  blessed.  Prayers  offered  on  our  behalf  have 
truly  been  answered,  and  God  has  blessed  souls.  The 
careless  have  been  led  to  inquire  for  salvation,  and  the 
praying  on  board  have  been  aroused  to  greater  earnest- 
ness. Our  Sabbath  services  and  prayer  meetings  in  the 
saloon  have  been  to  thirsty  ones  wellsprings  of  salva- 
tion. I have  enjoyed  and  benefited  much  by  the  voyage 
thus  far,  and  sincerely  trust  it  will  prove  all  through 
a grand  spiritual  preparation  for  the  great  work.  Souls 
and  God’s  glor)’  are  all  that  we  desire. 

‘ In  health  God  has  largely  blessed  us.  We  have  been 
in  excellent  health  all  the  way.  After  leaving  ^\'ey- 
mouth  we  had  a slight  touch  of  sea-sickness,  by  which 
I think  we  benefited  much.  I hope  we  won’t  be  getting 
like  the  sailors,  land-sick  after  being  on  shore  a httle. 
Mrs.  Chalmers  has  proved  the  best  sailor  of  the  ladies 
in  the  saloon,  in  tact,  beating  some  of  the  gentlemen.’ 

‘On  ]\Iay  20,’  continues  the  autobiography,  ‘ we  arrived 
in  Adelaide,  and  received  a right  hearty  welcome  from 
IMr.  Sunderland  and  the  Christian  people  of  that  beauti- 
ful city.  My  wife’s  father  came  from  New  Zealand,  and 
met  us  there.  We  visited  Melbourne,  Geelong,  Balla- 
rat, Hobart,  and  Sydney,  where  we  spent  some  weeks. 
The  interest  taken  in  us,  and  the  kindness  shown  in 
each  city  and  town  we  visited  was  great.  We  left 
Australia  feehng  we  had  many  friends  whom  we  should 
long  remember,  and  although  many  have  passed  on, 
there  are  stiU  a few  friends  of  those  days  remaining  who 
remember  with  pleasure  that  happy  time.  Eh,  it  was 
a happy  time ! 


On  the  Reef  at  Anelicahaut 


6i 


‘ In  Augiist  we  left  Sydney,  and  stood  away  for  the 
New  Hebrides.  We  had  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Geddes  and 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nelson  on  board  as  passengers  from 
Sydney,  and  they  were  to  be  landed  on  Aneiteum. 
The  afternoon  we  entered  the  harbour  of  Anelicahaut 
Aneiteum  was  clear,  and  there  was  a good  south-east 
breeze  blowing.  We  were  all  charmed  with  the  new 
scenery,  and  were  standing  aft,  entranced  with  watching 
the  many  beautiful  colours  of  the  reef  near  by,  when 
suddenly  several  were  thrown  down  upon  their  backs. 
The  vessel  had  gone  upon  an  unobserved  reef  with 
every  stitch  of  canvas  set,  and  there  she  hung  for  some 
days.  Her  forefoot  was  smashed,  and  a great  piece  of 
her  false  keel  carried  away.  She  was  making  much 
water,  and  the  pumps  had  to  be  kept  going.  She  was 
got  off  at  last,  and  the  forepart  patched  so  as  to  enable 
her  to  get  to  Sydney  for  repairs.  The  Presbyterian 
New  Hebrides  Synod,  who  were  then  in  session,  decided  j 
that  their  vessel  the  Dayspring  should  accompany  the 
John  Williams.  Mr.  Robertson,  now  of  Erromanga, 
with  twenty-two  natives,  came  on  board  to  keep  the 
pumps  going.  We  had  a long  passage,  nearly  three 
weeks,  and  day  and  night  the  pumps  had  to  be  kept 
going.  If  I remember  right,  she  was  making  from 
eighteen  to  twenty-two  inches  of  water  an  hour. 

‘ The  Sydney  friends  were  astonished  to  see  us  back 
so  soon,  and  sorry  indeed  were  they  when  they  heard 
the  reason.  We  lost  everything  by  salt  water.  My  wife 
and  I were  the  only  missionaries  who  accompanied  the 
vessel,  the  others,  with  the  greater  part  of  the  cargo, 
remained  on  Aneiteum.  Again  we  experienced  the 
exceeding  great  kindness  of  Sydney  friends.  We 
stayed  with  a widow  lady  and  her  four  children,  and 
all  through  life  it  has  been  a pleasant,  loving  memory. 


62 


^In  Perils  of  Waters^ 


After  six  weeks  we  were  once  again  outside  of  Sydnev 
Heads,  and  standing  away  from  Aneiteum,  and  in  one 
week  we  anchored  in  the  Anehcahaut  harbour. 

‘ All  were  well.  Passengers  and  goods  were  taken  on 
board,  and  in  a few  days  we  sailed  away  to  the  Loyalty 
Islands.  We  were  intensely  interested  in  the  mission 
work  we  saw  on  Aneiteum,  and  our  whole  self  became 
enthused  with  it  in  the  Loyalty  Group.  We  all  thanked 
God  for  callinsr  us  to  so  errand  a work.  The  missionaries 
and  natives  gave  us  a kind  reception  at  each  island. 

‘ From  the  Loyalty  Islands  we  worked  across  the 
Pacific,  south  of  Fiji,  to  Niue  or  Savage  Island,  an 
outlier  of  the  Pacific.  We  landed  at  Niue,  and  had 
a kindly  welcome  from  George  Lawes,  and  his  wife 
and  people. 

‘ We  spent  a day  or  two  at  Niue,  and  then  the  goods 
haring  been  landed  we  were  to  sail  for  Samoa  on 
January  9,  1867.  Captain  Williams  suggested  that 
some  of  us  should  go  on  board  the  night  before,  so  as 
to  leave  less  boating  for  the  following  day.’ 

"\Wiat  happened  that  night  is  more  vividly  described  in 
a letter  to  Dr.  Tidman,  which  Chalmers  wrote  on  Savage 
Island  nearly  a month  later,  February  4,  1867  : — 

‘ On  the  8th  ultimo,  about  11.30  p.m.,  our  much  loved 
and  thought  of  John  Williams  became  a total  wreck 
on  the  reef  which  surrounds  this  island.  For  some 
days  the  wind  had  been  blowing  verj"  strong  from  the 
^\DrW.,  so  causing-  a heaw'  swell  to  drive  in  towards 
the  shore,  and  preventing  the  landing  of  the  remainder 
of  Mr,  Lawes’  goods,  part  of  which  had  been  landed 
on  the  3rd,  the  wind  then  blowing  ofi  the  land.  On 
the  afternoon  of  the  3rd  all  the  passengers,  with  the 
exception  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Davies — Mrs.  Davies  being 
unwell — came  ashore  to  see  Mr.  Lawes.  During  the 


Total  Wreck  on  Niue 


63 

night  the  wind  changed,  and  so  prevented  all  com- 
munication with  the  ship,  until  the  Tuesday.  After 
getting  the  boats  discharged,  and  reladen  with  yams, 
taro,  bananas,  cocoanuts — presents  from  the  natives — 
Mrs.  Williams,  Mrs.  Chalmers  and  I accompanied  the 
captain  to  the  ship,  leaving  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Saville, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Watson,  with  our  carpenter,  ashore. 
The  latter  was  to  buy  from  the  natives  the  following 
morning  pigs,  &c.,  for  ship  use.  We  were  glad  to  get 
back,  for  we  loved  to  be  on  board  ship,  looking  upon 
it  as  our  home. 

‘About  seven  o’clock  it  fell  calm,  but  as  we  were 
out  a long  way  from  land,  no  uneasiness  was  felt. 
About  half-past  seven,  just  as  we  were  going  to 
evening  worship,  the  ship  was  noticed  to  drift  astern. 
This  was  rather  strange,  as  the  current  set  the  other 
way,  but  the  swell  was  very  heavy.  Before  worship 
was  over  orders  were  given  for  all  hands  on  deck, 
and  to  lower  away  the  whaleboat,  which  was  soon 
done.  She  was  sent  ahead,  well  manned,  having  the 
ship  in  tow ; still  the  ship  went  astern.  The  pinnace 
was  next  sent  ahead,  but  both  boats  having  no  effect 
upon  her,  a third,  the  gig,  was  sent  to  assist.  But 
with  three  boats  well  manned — manned  by  men  who 
felt  truly  interested  in  our  noble  ship — she  continued 
to  go  astern  faster  than  ever. 

‘ All  now  felt  very  anxious.  We,  the  passengers,  went 
below,  and  committed  the  ship  and  all  on  board  into 
His  hands  who  in  the  calm  as  well  as  in  the  storm  could 
save  His  own  ship.  Nothing  was  left  undone  that  was 
possible  for  men  to  do.  Soundings  were  taken,  but  no 
bottom  found.  Rockets  were  fired,  and  blue  lights 
burned,  to  warn  those  ashore  of  our  danger,  but  we 
could  not  hope  for  any  assistance  from  the  land.  Nearer 


^In  Perils  of  Waters^ 


64 

and  nearer  the  ship  approached  the  dreaded  reef,  and 
by  ten  o’clock  the  reef  seemed  close  under  the  stem. 
The  white  surf,  through  the  dense  darkness,  could  be 
distinctly  seen,  and  it  became  evident  that  the  sooner 
means  were  taken  to  save  life  the  better.  We  had  on 
board  about  seventy  souls,  including  men,  women  and 
children.  Shortly  after  ten  o’clock  the  gig  came  along- 
side, and  the  ladies  were  handed  down  into  it.  Next 
the  whaleboat  and  pinnace  came,  and  were  soon  filled. 
About  half-past  eleven  l\Ir,  Turpie  got  into  the  pinnace, 
the  rope  was  cut  away,  and  the  three  boats  lay  off,  to 
watch  what  might  become  of  the  ship.  She  verj'  soon 
struck  with  a fearful  crash,  and  as  the  rain  now  came 
down  in  torrents  we  made  for  the  Mission  station, 
a few  miles  off. 

‘ By  three  a.m.  on  Wednesday  morning  we  got  off 
the  reef  under  !Mr.  Lawes’  house.  A canoe  came  off, 
into  which  we  got  two  and  three  at  a time,  and  were 
paddled  into  the  break  of  the  surf,  when,  betw'een  the 
waves,  natives  seized  us,  and  carried  us  with  all  speed 
to  the  shore.  Inside  the  reef  torches  were  kept  burning 
by  the  natives,  and  without  this  it  would  have  been 
impossible  to  land  until  da^Tght.  By  half-past  four 
all  were  landed  and  comfortably  housed  wdth  Mr.  Lawes, 
whose  kindness,  with  that  of  Mrs.  Lawes,  cannot  be 
overlauded. 

‘ Morning  light  revealed  the  ship  in  the  midst  of  the 
surf — Hfted  up  on  the  reef,  and  lashed  mercilessly  by  the 
waves.  Attempts  have  been  made  to  save  part  of 
the  cargo,  but  verj’-  litde  has  been  saved.  Captain 
and  !Mrs.  Williams  seem  heartbroken ; but  for  Mrs. 
M’illiams  and  me  I fear  the  captain  would  not  have 
left  the  ship  that  night.  He  was  proud  of  his  ship,  and 
justly  so  too.  In  their  hearts  the  interests  of  the  Society 


Surf  Swimming  65 

and  missionaries  found  a large  place.  They  have  lost 
a great  deal  at  this  time.  Many  of  their  most  valuable 
things  have  been  either  lost  or  destroyed,  yet  that  does 
not  seem  to  affect  them  at  all.  Should  Captain  and 
Mrs.  Williams  not  return  to  these  Islands  again,  they 
will  be  much  missed,  for  they  were  true  friends  of  all 
the  missionaries.  Too  much  cannot  be  said  in  the  way 
of  praise,  for  all  who  know  them,  I believe,  love  them. 

‘ Do  not  for  a moment  suppose  that  we  feel  dis- 
couraged ; we  have  no  intention  of  turning  back,  and 
leaving  our  mission  work.  God  forbid ! If  possible, 
we  shall  go  on  now.  God  is  our  strength.  All  our 
trust  is  in  the  Lord.’ 

It  was  while  thus  detained  against  his  will  on  remote 
and  solitary  Niue  that  Chalmers  nearly  lost  his  life  in 
the  fascinating  and  exciting,  but  except  to  a native, 
excessively  dangerous  pleasure  of  surf  swimming.  We 
continue  the  story  again  from  the  autobiography ; — 

‘ During  our  stay  on  the  island,  I nearly  lost  my  life. 
I was  greatly  interested  in  the  surf  swimming,  and  often 
watched  the  lads  at  it.  One  day  the  sea  was  particu- 
larly big,  and  I determined  whilst  bathing  to  try  and 
run  in  on  a sea  with  a plank.  I got  too  far  out,  and 
was  sucked  back  to  the  big  boulders,  and  the  seas 
washing  me  about,  I got  much  bruised  and  cut.  I can 
remember  feeling  that  all  was  lost,  when  a great  sea 
caught  me,  and  threw  me  on  to  a boulder,  and  I felt  now 
or  never,  and  with  a terrible  effort  I clung  to  it,  and 
then  rising,  gave  one  spring,  and  landed  where  help 
could  come  to  me.  I was  picked  up,  and  carried  to  the 
house.  I was  in  bed  for  several  days.  I never  again 
tried  surf  swimming.’ 

The  autobiography  continues  the  story  of  this  adven- 
turous voyage : — 


E 


66 


^In  Perils  of  Waters^ 


‘Again  everything  was  lost.  When  I left  the  John 
\\'illiams  for  the  boats,  I had  on  a shirt  and  a pair  of 
trousers  and  a pair  of  socks,  no  boots,  and  my  watch, 
which  had  been  the  gift  of  the  poor  of  the  High  Street, 
Glasgow.  Some  things  were  saved,  but  all  much 
spoiled.  The  kindness  we  received  from  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Lawes  exceeded  all  praise.  We  had  to  remain  six 
weeks  on  the  island,  and  were  at  the  mission  house  all 
the  time.  When  a schooner  belonging  to  the  Samoan 
Trading  Company  called,  the  mate,  Mr.  Turpie,  some 
of  the  crew,  iMr.  and  Mrs.  Davies,  Mrs.  Chalmers  and 
I took  passage  in  her  to  Samoa.  We  were  eleven  days 
getting  to  Apia,  and  ran  out  of  water,  and  were  put  on 
very  short  rations  in  food.  The  captain  was  truly  kind, 
and  did  all  he  possibly  could  to  make  us  comfortable. 
My  wife  had  been  very  ill  on  Niue,  but  picked  up  con- 
siderably on  this  voyage.  We  were  kindly  received  by 
all  in  Samoa.  The  consul  did  all  he  possibly  could  for 
the  shipwrecked  crew,  and  we  were  entertained  by  the 
missionary',  Mr.  Murray.  The  missionaries  lost  much 
by  the  wreck  ; some  of  them  were  very  short  of  clothing, 
and  all  were  short  of  food. 

‘ Soon  after  we  arrived  at  Samoa,  Captain  Williams 
and  his  wife,  and  remainder  of  shipwrecked  missionaries 
and  sailors  (only  the  second  mate  and  a few  sailors 
remained  behind),  were  brought  to  Samoa  in  the  Rona, 
a brig  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  tons,  owned  and  com- 
manded by  the  notorious  Bully  Hayes.  On  the  arrival 
of  the  captain  the  wreck  was  sold,  and  Hayes  bought 
it  with  aU  belonging  to  the  ship  that  had  been  saved. 

‘ Hayes  was  then  chartered  to  return  to  Niue,  and 
bring  to  Apia  the  remainder  of  the  crew  and  all  the 
saved  spoiled  cargo.  On  his  return  the  things  were 
equally  divided  between  the  missionaries  in  Samoa, 


Bully  Hayes  67 

Society  Islands  and  Cook  Islands,  and  lots  were  drawn. 
The  cloth  was  spoiled.  I had  a chest  of  tea  in  my  lot, 
and  believed  it  was  good ; but  on  opening  it  on  Raro- 
tonga we  found  it  had  been  wetted,  and  was  quite 
rotten. 

‘ After  spending  six  weeks  on  Samoa,  Hayes  was 
chartered  to  take  us  to  Rarotonga,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Saville  to  Huahine.  Before  leaving  Apia  the  foreign 
residents  presented  me  with  a testimonial  in  money, 
“ feeling  grateful,”  as  they  expressed  it,  “ to  you  for  the 
great  interest  you  have  taken  in  our  spiritual  welfare.” 
The  crew  having  saved  the  forecastle  Bible,  presented  it 
to  me  “ as  a token  of  our  esteem  for  the  religious  in- 
struction we  have  received  from  you  while  on  board  the 
said  vessel.”  These  marks  of  love  and  kindness  I prized 
then,  and  still  prize  much.  The  Bible  is  to  be  sent  to 
14,  Blomfield  Street. 

‘ Hayes  seemed  to  take  to  me  during  the  frequent 
meetings  we  had  on  shore,  and  before  going  on  board 
for  good  I met  him  one  afternoon,  and  said  to  him, 
“ Captain  Hayes,  I hope  you  will  have  no  objection  to 
our  having  morning  and  evening  service  on  board,  and 
twice  on  Sabbaths.  All  will  be  short,  and  only  those 
who  like  to  come  need  attend.” 

‘ “ Certainly  not ; my  ship  is  a missionary  ship  now, 
and  I hope  you  will  feel  it  so.  All  on  board  will  attend 
these  services.” 

‘ “ Only  if  they  are  inclined,”  I replied. 

‘ We  were  well  treated  on  board,  Hayes  was  a perfect 
host,  and  a thorough  gentleman.  His  wife  and  children 
were  on  board ; and  although  we  had  fearful  weather 
nearly  all  the  time,  yet  I must  say  we  enjoyed  ourselves. 
Instead  of  going  to  Rarotonga  first,  we  had  gone  so 
far  south  that  we  could  easily  fetch  Tahiti,  and  so  we 


68 


*In  Perils  of  Waters^ 


stood  for  it,  causing  us  to  be  much  longer  on  board. 
Hayes  several  times  lost  his  temper,  and  did  very 
queer  things,  acting  under  the  influence  of  passion 
more  like  a madman  than  a sane  man.  Much  of  his 
past  life  he  related  to  us  at  table ; especially  such 
things  as  he  had  done  to  cheat  governments ; but  as 
much  has  appeared  in  print  concerning  him  I forbear 
retailing  these  stories. 

‘Leaving  our  friends,  the  Savilles,  at  Huahine,  we 
came  to  Mangaia,  where  we  were  very  kindly  received 
by  Mr,  and  Mrs.  Wyatt  Gill  and  their  people.  We 
arrived  on  a Sunday  in  very  dirty  weather.  I landed 
just  after  sunset. 

‘ On  Monday  morning  I returned  to  the  ship  for 
Mrs.  Chalmers,  and  about  midday  we  went  ashore 
with  the  captain,  hoping  to  return  in  the  evening. 
The  wind  was  easterly  and  very  strong.  The  boat 
remained  outside  the  reef,  going  to  and  from  the  ship 
with  goods  and  provisions.  About  dark,  a wet  and 
disagreeable  night,  the  boat  was  ready  to  leave  for 
the  last  time.  Both  of  us,  with  the  captain,  were 
anxious  to  get  off,  and  were  quite  ready  to  go,  when 
the  natives  refused  to  put  us  over  tlie  reef,  as  it  was 
very  rough.  The  captain  offered  them  five  dollars 
to  get  on  board,  but  they  would  not  be  moved,  the 
pilot  saying,  “ It  is  easy  for  me  to  take  them  to  the 
boat,  but  I feel  certain  that  boat  will  never  reach 
the  ship.”  Little  did  we  suppose  that  by  their  refusal 
to  comply  with  our  request  our  lives  were  preserved. 

‘ The  boat  left  for  the  ship,  which  lay  off  and  on, 
at  no  great  distance  from  the  reef.  All  night  we  felt 
anxious  about  the  ship,  for  the  night  was  dark  and 
stormy.  The  next  morning  no  ship  was  to  be  seen, 
and  it  was  not  until  Thursday  she  hove  in  sight. 


A Narrow  Escape  69 

The  captain  went  on  board  immediately.  Soon  a 
flag  went  up,  but  alas!  it  was  only  half-mast,  then 
another.  It  too  was  half-mast — What  can  be  wrong? 
Mr.  Gill  and  I got  a canoe  and  went  off,  but  before 
getting  to  the  ship  saw  what  was  wrong.  No  whale- 
boat was  seen  on  the  starboard  davits,  and  getting 
on  board  w’e  found  she  had  never  reached  the  ship. 
There  were  two  men  in  the  boat,  one  a native  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  who  was  second  mate,  and  the  other 
a native  of  Ireland,  named  Hughes,  who  was  working 
his  passage  from  Huahine. 

‘ The  supposition  is  she  swamped,  or  was  run  down 
by  the  ship.  They  were  last  heard  cooeying  close 
to  the  ship,  but  could  not  be  seen.  We  had  had 
many  merciful  deliverances  since  we  set  sail  from 
Gravesend  on  January  4,  1866,  and  again  our  prayer 
was  that  life  thus  preserved  might  entirely  be  devoted 
to  the  service  of  God. 

‘ While  we  were  waiting  the  return  of  the  vessel 
Mr.  Gill  had  decided  to  accompany  us.  The  plan  was 
that  we  should  visit  Aitutaki,  pick  up  Mr.  Royle,  the 
missionary  on  that  island,  and  proceed  thence  to  Raro- 
tonga, where  a meeting  of  Committee  might  be  held. 
On  arrival  at  Aitutaki,  a boat  came  off  into  which  we 
got,  and  on  reaching  the  shore  Gill  stepped  out,  and 
the  boat  was  seized  by  an  excited  crowd,  and  with 
much  shouting  we  were  carried  right  in  through  a 
cocoanut  grove  to  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  which  the 
mission  house  stood.  There  Mr.  Royle  met  us,  and 
gave  us  both  a hearty  welcome.  The  shouting  in- 
formed him  that  something  very  unusual  was  taking 
place,  and  he  had  come  down  to  see  what  it  was. 
A day  or  two  after  we  left  for  Rarotonga  laden  with 
presents  from  the  Aitutakians,  and  with  a bull  and 


70 


^In  Perils  of  Waters^ 


a cow  from  Mr.  and  iirs.  Royle.  MTiat  a splendid 
missionar)-  couple  they  were,  and  what  excellent  work 
they  did ! We  did  not  see  eye  to  eye  on  some 
points,  but  I have  always  had  a great  admiration 
for  their  earnest  service.  He  was  a zealous  man,  and 
given  to  prayer. 

‘ MTien  near  to  Rarotonga  I had  a very"  kind  letter 
from  Hayes,  thanking  me  for  the  services  I had  held 
on  board  the  ship,  and  for  my  kindly  demeanour 
towards  him,  saying,  “ If  only  you  were  near  me, 
I should  certainly  become  a new  man,  and  lead  a 
different  Hfe.”  Yet  a few  days  after  arriving  at  Raro- 
tonga, the  vessel  being  anchored  in  Avarua,  he  nearly 
killed  his  supercargo  with  a bag  of  dollars  which  I had 
given  him  as  the  last  payment  of  the  charter  for  the 
vo)"age  now  successfully  completed. 

‘ On  Maj"  20,  1867,  we  anchored  in  the  harbour  of 
Avarua.  I was  the  first  to  land,  and  on  being  carried 
ashore  from  the  boat  b}"  a native,  he  asked,  “ MTiat 
fellow  name  belong  you  ? ” so  that  he  might  call  it  out 
to  the  shore.  I answered,  “ Chalmers,”  and  he  roared 
out,  “ Tamate  ; ” hence  the  name.’ 


CHAPTER  IV 


LIFE  ON  RAROTONGA 

In  the  manner  described  in  the  closing  paragraph  of 
the  last  chapter,  Chalmers  set  foot  on  the  island,  and 
began  the  work  to  which  he  had  looked  forward  with 
eager  longing  for  years.  Very  few,  even  in  those  days 
of  rough  experience  in  travelling  by  sea,  traversed  in 
search  of  the  desired  haven  such  stormy  seas,  or 
entered  port  after  such  varied  and  dangerous  expe- 
riences. Looking  back  through  the  years,  we  may 
discern  in  and  through  it  aU  a discipline  that  bore  good 
and  speedy  fruit.  The  open-air  childhood  and  youth 
at  Inveraray  had  fitted  Chalmers  to  rejoice  in  ‘ moving 
accidents  by  flood  and  field’  that  would  have  discouraged 
a less  robust  nature.  The  combination  of  events,  for- 
tunate and  disastrous,  good  and  evil,  that  placed 
seemingly  endless  difficulties  in  the  path  to  Rarotonga 
did  but  strengthen  his  faith,  cause  his  enthusiasm  to 
burn  with  a steadier  flame,  and  render  him  daily  more 
and  more  determined,  were  life  spared  to  him,  to  reach 
his  new  home  and  to  enter  upon  his  lifework. 

Moreover  it  is  not  unlikely  that  the  long  and  exciting 
strain  of  the  seven  months’  voyage  rendered  it  easier 
for  him,  after  a while,  to  settle  down  to  those  ten  years 
of  quiet,  active,  fruitful  labour,  within  the  limits  of 
one  Pacific  island.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  severi- 
ties of  the  road  that  led  him  to  the  island,  he  might 
have  been  much  more  impatient  than  he  was  for 


72 


Life  on  Rarotonga 

new  scenes  and  more  arduous  duties.  Even  Chal- 
mers might  well  rest  and  be  thankful  after  a voyage 
which  nearlv  ended  in  total  wreck  almost  at  its  begin- 
ning  ; which  suffered  partial  wreck  as  soon  as  the  ship 
entered  the  Pacific ; and  reached  the  climax  of  total 
wreck  at  SaA-age  Island,  To  have  faced  death  not  once 
or  twice,  but  man\-  times ; to  have  left  England  in  the 
John  \\’illiams,  the  vessel  built  in  faith  and  love  and 
prayer,  and  to  have  reached  Rarotonga  in  a pirate 
vessel  commanded  by  one  of  the  most  notorious  of 
Polynesian  desperadoes,  to  have  been  plucked  from  the 
very  jaws  of  death  in  the  surf  of  Xiue,  partly  by  his 
own  courage  and  endurance,  and  partly  by  the  skill  and 
wonderful  power  in  the  water  on  the  part  of  the  Savage 
Island  natives — these  and  many  similar  experiences 
probably  led  even  Chalmers  to  be  wiUing  for  a time 
to  live  the  life  of  an  ordinar}*  mortal,  and  to  occupj’ 
himself  in  the  quiet  drudger}*  of  uneventful  mission- 
ary  life. 

And  what  of  his  new  home  ? Rarotonga  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  the  multitudinous  isles  of  loveliness 
which  dot  the  surface  of  the  vast  Pacific  Ocean.  The 
Rev,  \^'illiam  GiU,  who  laboured  there  as  a missionary’ 
fi-om  1839  to  1852,  has  left  on  record  a description  of 
the  island  itself,  and  of  the  character  and  qualities  of  the 
people  in  their  heathen  life  that  enables  the  reader  to 
picture  the  new  surroundings  in  which  Chalmers  and 
his  wife  now  found  themselves. 

‘ Rarotonga  is  situated  about  six  hundred  miles 
south-west  of  Tahiti,  in  21°  20"  south  latitude  and  160° 
west  longitude,  and  is  the  largest  island  of  the  Hervey 
group.  It  is  encircled  by  an  outer  reef  thiny-five  miles 
in  circumference  ; and  its  mountains  rise  three  thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  barrier  reef  is  a 


73 


Beauty  of  Rarotonga 

protective  wall  of  immense,  deep,  compact,  block  coral, 
from  a quarter  of  a mile  to  half  a mile  broad.  And 
this  at  low  tide  is  almost  bare,  but  at  high  tide  is 
submerged  to  the  depth  of  from  four  to  six  feet. 
The  openings  in  the  reef  towards  the  sea  vary  from  ten 
to  twenty  feet  in  width,  and  allow  canoes  and  boats  to 
pass  in  and  out ; one  of  these,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
island,  is  large  enough  to  admit  a vessel  of  forty  tons 
burden,  but  affords  no  protection ; and  on  the  south- 
east side  there  is  another,  which  forms  a miniature 
harbour,  deep  and  safe,  and  is  beautifully  adorned  by 
four  ever-green  lovely  islets ; but  being  exposed  to 
windward  is  not  available  for  ships.  With  these  ex- 
ceptions there  is  no  anchorage  round  the  island.  It 
is  a reef-bound  coast,  shelving  slightly  seaward,  then 
sinking  perpendicularly  thousands  of  feet  towards  the 
foundation  of  the  sea. 

‘Against  this  vast  barrier  of  coral  reef  the  mighty 
waves  of  the  Pacific,  of  deepest  blue,  rise  in  majestic 
grandeur  to  a height  of  more  than  twenty  feet,  then, 
curling  over,  break  in  innumerable  myriads  of  silvery 
white  spray,  and  dash  in  subdued,  yet  graceful,  beauty 
on  the  shore. 

‘ A long  white  sandy  beach,  varying  from  ten  to  a 
hundred  feet  wide,  forms  a natural  margin  to  a com- 
paratively level  tract  of  land,  round  the  whole  of  the 
island.  The  soil  is  richly  and  constantly  covered  with 
fruitful  groves  of  chestnut,  cocoanut,  breadfruit,  and 
banana  trees. 

‘ Beyond  this,  inland,  there  is  for  the  most  part  a long, 
low  slip  of  marshy  ground,  cultivated  as  taro  swamps, 
at  whose  base  rise  hills  innumerable ; then  deep,  wild, 
rugged,  fertile  valleys  intervene  between  another  range 
of  higher  hills ; then  other  valleys ; and  thence,  hill  on 


74 


Life  on  Rarotonga 


hill,^d  mountain  on  mountain,  piled  on  each  other  in 
rich  variety  of  size,  and  form,  and  verdure.  The  lofty 
summits  of  the  highest  mountains  can  be  seen  by  the 
voyager  when  sixty  miles  distant  at  sea. 

‘ In  each  settlement  the  ariki  or  chief  was  supreme  in 
power,  and  despotic  in  rule.  Next  in  rank  to  him  were 
the  mataiapo^  a class  of  independent  landholders,  either 
related  to  the  ariki  or  having  gained  their  position 
by  deeds  of  valour.  Under  these  were  the  rangatira^ 
a kind  of  dependent  tenantry',  having  certain  privileges 
which  distinguished  them  from  the  mass  of  common 
people,  who  under  the  above  three  ranks  were  in  the 
condition  of  serfs.  Caste  did  not  exist  as  a system,  yet 
each  grade  had  its  distinct  position  in  the  heathen 
society  of  Rarotonga. 

‘ A family,  as  the  term  signifies  to  an  English  ear, 
was  not  known  among  this  people.  The  chiefs,  mafaia- 
pos,  and  rangatiras^  were  wont  to  have  from  three  to 
ten  wives  each,  according  to  rank,  or  property,  or 
renown.  Their  habitations  were  long,  narrow,  low, 
reed  huts,  the  ground  being  covered  with  dry  grass,  and 
the  whole  of  the  furniture  consisting  only  of  sleeping- 
mat,  native  bark-cloth,  cloth-making  block  and  mallet, 
stools  and  bowls.  Licentiousness,  deceit,  and  theft 
prevailed  to  a fearful  extent ; and  so  general  and  con- 
stant were  the  enmity  and  jealousy  of  one  tribe  towards 
another,  that  the  majority  of  the  people  were  confined 
to  the  range  or  district  where  they  were  born,  only 
hearing  vague  reports,  but  knowing  little  definitely, 
respecting  the  tribes  beyond  them. 

‘ War,  either  offensive  or  defensive,  was  their  continual 
employment  and  delight.  A state  of  peace  was  rarely 
ever  known  to  continue  long  between  the  tribes. 
Frequent  quarrels  arose,  sometimes  by  the  people  of 


War  and  Cannibalism 


75 


one  tribe  trespassing-  the  boundary  line  of  their  neigh- 
bour’s land  ; at  others,  by  the  absconding  of  wives  from 
their  husbands;  sometimes  they  were  occasioned  by 
acts  of  plunder  on  the  cocoanut  and  breadfruit  and 
taro  plantations ; and  at  others  by  revenge  of  former 
wrongs.  These  quarrels  invariably  led  to  fighting  in 
w'hich  the  warriors  of  each  tribe  engaged  with  the 
utmost  desperateness  and  cruelty. 

‘The  first  victims  secured  in  war  were  presented  to 
the  gods,  and  the  head  of  each  was  taken  in  savage 
triumph,  while  yet  reeking  in  its  blood,  to  the  chief  of 
the  tribe,  and  the  bodies  of  such  were  eaten  in  their 
cannibal  feasts.  Cannibalism  prevailed,  but  not  to  so 
fearful  an  extent  as  among  the  tribes  of  Western  Poly- 
nesia; and  infanticide  was  committed  on  a large  scale, 
but  was  chiefly  confined  to  female  children,  when  there 
were  already  two  or  three  in  a family.  The  inhabitants 
of  this  lovely  garden-island  of  the  sea  were  sunk  in  an 
abject  state  of  naked,  barbarous,  savage  heathenism. 
Gross  darkness  covered  the  people,  and  their  dwelling- 
place  was  full  of  cruelty  and  abomination.’ 

The  story  of  the  rediscovery  of  Rarotonga  by  John 
Williams  in  1823,  and  of  the  successive  steps  by  which 
Christianity  was  introduced,  and  the  victory  won  over 
the  vice  and  cruelty  and  cannibalism  of  the  old  heathen 
life  is  one  of  the  most  romantic  in  the  fascinating  annals 
of  Polynesian  missionary  enterprise. 

The  early  missionaries,  Charles  Pitman  and  Aaron 
Buzacott,  who  built  wisely  and  well  upon  the  founda- 
tion laid  by  the  heroic  Papeiha  and  the  great  John 
Williams,  transformed  a wild,  fierce,  and  warlike  race 
of  savages  into  a semi-civilized,  law-abiding  people. 
Long  before  the  eye  of  Chalmers  gazed  upon  the 
many  lovely  mountains,  valleys,  lagoons,  and  reefs  of 


76  Life  on  Rarotonga 

Rarotonga,  the  old  heathenism  had  disappeared.  Many 
of  the  islanders  had  been  truly  converted,  and  many 
had  entered  into  the  full  joy  and  liberty  of  salvation. 
But  large  numbers  were  Christians  only  in  name,  and 
of  those  who  professed  to  have  realized  the  uplifting 
pMDwer  of  the  Gospel  many  were  still  babes  in  Christ, 

It  was  to  a lovely  home,  and  to  quiet  but  necessary 
and  not  at  all  eas}*  work  that  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers 
came  when  the}'  landed  on  Rarotonga  on  May  20, 
1S67.  And  here  we  pick  up  once  more  the  thread 
of  the  autobiography. 

‘ The  reception  we  had  from  Makea  Abela,  and 
Tinomana  and  Pa,  and  Ivainuku,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Krause,  pastors,  deacons,  and  churches  surpassed  all 
our  expectations.  Thiny-two  years  have  gone  since 
then,  but  the  memor}’-  of  it  seems  as  fresh  as  ever. 
Mr.  Krause  had  been  ill  for  some  time,  and  was  glad 
of  our  arrival,  so  that  he  might  leave. 

‘M’e  had  been  appointed  to  Ngatangiia,  and  Pa  and 
the  people  on  the  other  side  of  the  island  had  been 
informed  of  that  by  their  beloved  Pitimani.  But  since 
they  had  been  informed  of  this  it  had  become  evident 
that  it  was  not  wise  for  us  to  go  there.  There  was 
Ukely  to  be  trouble,  and  one  morning  a great  crowd 
came  marching  up  to  the  mission  house,  shouting  and 
dancing  as  they  neared  the  steps,  and  demanding  their 
missionar}'.  Mr.  Krause  became  terribly  excited,  and 
to  us  the  state  of  affairs  began  to  seem  really  serious. 
I suggested  that  we  should  accompanj'  the  natives  cn 
their  return,  and  remain  a few  days  with  them.  But 
we  were  convinced  that  we  should  have  to  make 
Avarua  our  headquarters,  because  the  Institution  was 
there,  and  it  was  the  residence  of  the  Makea,  the  leading 
chief,  and  the  largest  population  vi-as  there.  Poles 


77 


A Rarotongan  Welcome 

were  lashed  along  chairs,  and  we  were  actually  run 
away  with.  Outside  of  Avarua  I was  allowed  to 
dismount,  and  to  walk  the  rest  of  the  way.  We 
stayed  with  the  native  teacher  or  pastor,  Maretu,  a 
prince  of  men,  and  one  of  the  finest  men  I have  ever 
known,  white  or  coloured.  We  learned  in  time  to 
love  him  dearly,  and  he  to  love  us.  We  stayed  a few 
days,  and  then  we  returned  to  Avarua.  Six  weeks 
after  Mr.  and  Mrs,  Krause  and  family  left  us  for 
Germany. 

‘ For  years  I had  longed  to  get  amongst  real  heathen 
and  savages,  and  I was  disappointed  when  we  landed 
on  Rarotonga  and  found  them  so  much  civilized  and 
Christianized,  I wrote  to  the  Directors  at  Blomfield 
Street,  stating  my  disappointment,  and  begged  them 
to  appoint  us  to  Espiritu  Santo  in  the  New  Hebrides. 
At  the  District  Committee  meeting  held  very  shortly 
after  we  landed,  the  first  I ever  attended,  I stated  my 
feelings  to  the  brethren,  and  suggested  that  Mr.  Green, 
formerly  of  Tahiti,  and  at  that  time  on  Tahaa,  should 
be  appointed  to  Rarotonga.  A minute  to  that  effect 
was  actually  passed,  but  nothing  came  of  it,  and  we 
lived  on  Rarotonga  for  ten  years.  Those  years  were 
full  of  happiness,  of  life,  and  of  work. 

‘ We  got  the  place  set  in  order,  the  houses  which 
had  been  sadly  injured  by  hurricanes  repaired,  and 
regular  classes  arranged  with  the  students.  I also 
paid  constant  visits  to  the  different  stations,  and  held 
frequent  meetings  with  the  native  pastors.  All  this 
took  some  time,  but  we  succeeded  at  last  in  getting 
the  work  well  in  hand. 

‘ A few  years  later  students  were  sent  to  the  New 
Hebrides  in  the  Dayspring,  and  five  fine  young  men 
and  their  wives  were  sent  out  to  begin  work  on  the 


78 


Life  on  Rarotonga 

mainland  of  New  Guinea.  In  Samoa  they  were  joined 
by  Piri  and  his  wife,  making  up  the  total  to  six  couples. 
Mr.  Wyatt  Gill  was  then  going  home  on  furlough,  and 
these  native  missionaries  were  placed  in  his  charge 
by  the  Committee.  Their  names  were : — Ruatoka, 
Anederea,  Adamu,  Henere,  Rau  and  Piri.  Of  them 
only  the  noble  Ruatoka  remains,  and  may  his  grand 
life  be  spared  long! 

‘ At  Somerset,  Gill  was  joined  by  Mr.  A.  W.  Murray, 
and  together  they  placed  the  above  in  Redscar  Bay 
at  Manumanu.  Years  after,  when  I called  at  Manu- 
manu,  the  old  chief  Naime  came  to  me,  pretending  to 
be  ver}'  cold,  and  sitting  down,  I asked  him  if  he 
were  ill,  and  he  answered,  “ Yes,  very.  Tamate,  listen  ! 
\Vhat  have  I done,  that  I am  thus  left  out  in  the 
cold  whilst  others  are  happy  ? MTiy  have  I no  teacher  ? 
Was  not  I the  first  to  receive  teachers,  and  did  I not 
treat  them  kindly?  MTien  many  wished  to  mtirder 
them,  did  I not  prevent  it  ? And  now  you  leave  me 
alone.  Tamate,  you  must  give  me  a teacher.” 

‘ We  had  a grand  year  of  refreshing  before  that  first 
contingent  left.  Many  were  the  meetings  for  prayer, 
and  the  church,  I believe,  had  never  had  such  a time  of 
refreshing  since  Buzacott’s  time.  Many  were  led  to 
Christ  and  joined  the  church.  MTiat  a day  the  Sunday 
before  their  leaving  was  ! The  excitement  was  intense, 
old  men  with  tears  streaming  down  their  faces  begged 
to  be  also  sent,  alleging  that  their  knowledge  of  savage 
life  and  heathen  customs  well  fitted  them  for  the  work. 
Never  before  or  since  have  I experienced  such  emotions, 
and  I felt  that  I must  go  too. 

‘ Our  Institution  increased  in  numbers,  and  we  had 
nearly  forty  students  with  their  wives,  and  we  had  also 
a high  school  for  boys,  numbering  fifty  at  one  time. 


The  Curse  of  Drink 


79 


Every  day  had  its  well-filled  work,  and  I preached 
every  Sunday,  One  Sunday  in  the  month  I went 
right  round  the  island,  and  preached  at  three  stations. 
My  wife  was  also  full  of  work,  and  we  saw  little  of  one 
another  during  the  day.  It  was  during  these  busy 
years  that  I prepared  commentaries  on  all  the  Prophets, 
and  all  the  Epistles,  and  wrote  many  things  for  the  use 
of  the  students. 

‘ In  that  paradise  of  the  Pacific  there  was  one  fearful 
curse,  strong  drink,  and  that  we  tried  to  combat. 
I turned  policeman,  and  used  to  find  out  where  the 
meetings  for  drink  were  held.  My  experience  is  that 
native  chiefs  and  policemen  are  not  fit  in  themselves  to 
carry  out  laws.  They  put  on  a spurt  for  a fortnight, 
and  then  things  drift  back,  and  are  left  to  become  worse 
than  before.  During  Makea  Abela’s  time  we  succeeded 
in  putting  it  down  to  a considerable  extent ; but  he  was 
a great  hindrance,  being  himself  much  addicted  to  drink, 
both  foreign  and  native. 

‘ Thinking  that  if  they  were  allowed  to  drink  their 
orange  beer  openly  at  their  meals,  a stop  would  be  put 
to  the  large  gatherings  where  all  got  drunk,  and  the 
orgies  can  only  be  described  as  beastly,  I proposed  this 
to  Makea.  But  he  decidedly  opposed  it,  saying  it 
would  never  do,  as  there  would  be  no  rejoicing  then  at 
all.  He  would  not  give  his  consent  to  the  plan.  Many 
of  the  mataiapo  were  on  our  side ; but  without  Makea 
and  the  other  chiefs  they  were  useless. 

‘ I remember  once  getting  some  of  the  inferior  chiefs 
together  and  going  on  deputation  to  Makea  and  Mana- 
rangi,  who  was  chief  justice,  and  had  lapsed  from 
church  membership,  and  from  his  social  position 
through  drink.  They  both  received  us  well,  and 
listened  to  aU  we  had  to  say.  One  of  the  mataiapos 


8o 


Life  on  Rarotonga 

spoke  very  seriously  to  Abela,  and  Manarangi  pulled 
him  up  by  asking,  in  a bit  of  song,  “Whence  is  Makea  ?” 
and  the  old  mataiapo  replied  in  song,  “ From  heaven  he 
came,”  and  then  Manarangi  wound  up  with,  “ Who  then 
can  speak  ? ” and  we  returned,  forced  thus  to  remember 
that  Makea  was  beyond  and  above  all  law  and  all 
human  beings.  In  the  light  of  an  incident  like  this,  one 
could  understand  how  and  why  in  heathen  times  any 
one  who  crossed  even  his  shadow  was  instantly  clubbed 
to  death.  Abela  died  very  suddenly,  and  was  mourned 
greatly ; for  although  he  was  a great  drinker,  he  was 
exceedingly  kind  to  all,  and  especially  to  his  missionary'. 
The  Earl  of  Pembroke  and  Dr.  Kingsley  described  him 
as  a perfect  gentleman. 

‘ After  ^lakea’s  death  Takau,  wife  of  Ngamaru  Atiu, 
was  sent  for,  and  they  both  were  elected  to  the  position 
of  head  chief.  She  is  an  excellent  woman,  and  has 
done  much  good ; but  has  not  succeeded  in  putting 
down  the  drink.  All  natives  can  be  bought  by  the 
white  man,  and  so  they  wink  at  grog  being  landed. 
A silk  dress  given  as  a present,  a few  bottles  of  grog,  or 
beer,  or  wine  as  medicine,  given  in  the  right  quarter, 
well  known  to  all  traders,  and  the  island  may  be 
swamped  with  drink.  If  the  chiefs  wished  to  stop  the 
curse,  they  could  have  done  so  long  ago,  for  the  law 
passed  in  conjunction  with  the  British  Resident  was  that 
no  native  could  get  drink  unless  he  had  a permit  signed 
by  Makea  or  one  of  the  chiefs.  But  this  law  led  to  the 
selling  of  permits,  and  thus  the  drink  traffic  became 
legalized,  and  the  state  of  the  island  worse  than  ever. 
Neither  Makea  nor  the  chiefs  were  earnest  in  the  effort 
to  get  rid  of  drink,  and  their  frequent  protestations  were 
made  at  the  request  of  the  white  missionary,  and  only 
to  please  him. 


8i 


Visit  to  Mangaia 

‘We  spent  a very  pleasant  time  on  Mangaia  in  1871 
with  the  Wyatt  Gills,  and  came  to  love  them  dearly. 
We  visited  many  of  the  caves  in  the  company  of 
Mr.  Gill,  who  was  a thorough  missionary,  and  an 
enthusiast  in  all  things  native,  anthropology  and  eth- 
nology included  h How  dearly  he  loved  the  natives, 
and  both  he  and  Mrs,  Gill  gave  themselves  entirely  to 
the  natives  for  Christ’s  sake ! For  a young  missionary 
there  could  have  been  no  better  friend ; he  was  lenient 
to  faults,  and  praised  what  was  done  well.  His  mode 
of  dealing  with  the  many  faults  into  which  a young 
missionary  is  certain  to  fall  was  one  of  kindness  and 
love ; and  his  suggestions  were  so  put  that  no  one 
could  have  any  difficulty  in  adopting  them.’ 

This  somewhat  meagre  outline  of  the  autobiography 
can  here  be  supplemented  from  the  letters  and  reports 
of  the  period.  One  of  the  first  communications  sent 
home  by  Chalmers  was  a brief  note  to  Dr.  Mullens,  then 
the  Foreign  Secretary  of  the  Society,  giving  a few  of 
his  early  impressions  of  the  island  and  its  people. 

‘ On  our  arrival  we  found  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Krause  in 
a very  bad  state  of  health,  and  although  they  had  been 
so  for  more  than  two  years,  I was  pleased  to  find  the 
stations  in  such  good  condition.  The  native  agents 
seem  to  do  their  work  well,  and  although  there  is  much 
to  deplore,  yet  there  is  much,  very  much,  to  rejoice  in. 
The  seed  sown  by  the  faithful  servants  of  God  in  the 
past  still  bears  fruit,  and  doubtless  will  continue  to  do 
so.  The  names  of  Pitman  and  Buzacott  are  dear  to  the 
natives ; they  are  the  Rarotongan  standards,  next  to 
the  Bible.  The  people  attend  church  well,  and  the 
morning  prayer  meetings  throughout  the  week  are 

^ See  Dr.  Wyatt  Gill’s  book,  From  Darkness  to  Light  in 
Polynesia. 


F 


82 


Life  on  Rarotonga 


well  attended.  The  people  are  kind  to  the  missionary, 
and  ever  ready  to  do  what  they  can  to  help  him.  The 
schools  are  well  attended,  and  great  pains  seem  to  be 
taken  to  instruct  the  children.’ 

Before  he  left  Rarotonga,  the  retiring  misslonaiy", 
Mr.  Krause,  came  under  the  spell  of  Chalmers’  per- 
sonality, and  on  June  ii,  i86;-,  VTOte  to  the  Directors: 
‘ And  now  allow  me  to  congratulate  the  Board  on  the 
choice  of  my  successor.  He  is  all  I have  praj^ed  for, 
and  for  so  many  years — a man  without  guile,  a 
Nathanael — without  fear,  and  filled  with  tender  love  for 
the  people.  I trust  he  is  the  right  man  in  the  right 
place.’  This  testimony  was  true  at  the  time,  and  was 
amply  verified  in  the  succeeding  ten  5'ears. 

Chalmers  soon  began  to  take  the  measure  of  his  first 
field  of  missionaiy  enterprise — the  population,  their  habits, 
attainments,  difficulties,  necessities.  By  November  16, 
1867,  he  had  written  home  to  state  that  as  he  found  the 
entire  population  of  the  island  amounted  only  to  1856 
souls,  he  should  no  longer  ask  for  a European  colleague, 
but  only  for  all  needful  assistance  from  native  helpers. 
He  soon  began  to  introduce  reforms  into  the  manage- 
ment of  the  Institution.  He  took  the  education  of  the 
5*oung  in  hand,  and  began  a system  of  competitive 
examination  among  the  school  children  of  the  different 
villages,.  He  proclaimed  war  to  the  knife  against  the 
drink  traffic  and  drinking  customs  of  every*  kind.  He 
was  instant  in  season  and  out  of  season  in  preaching 
the  Gospel,  and  in  work  of  every*  kind  that  tended  to 
uphft  and  benefit  the  souls  under  his  charge. 

The  position  of  a capable  missionary  on  one  of  these 
remote,  self-contained  Pacific  islands  forty  years  ago  was 
very  peculiar.  He  was  a kind  of  head  chief,  and 
although  alwa}*s  careful  not  to  intei*fere  in  matters  merely 


Missionary  Influence  83 

political,  in  many  respects  the  missionary  wielded  an 
influence  far  greater  than  that  even  of  the  chief  himself. 
Only  in  very  rare  instances  indeed  was  there  ever  open 
and  aggressive  opposition  to  his  wishes.  But  heathen 
custom  was  often  too  strong  for  the  rudimentary  Chris- 
tianity which  the  natives  had  accepted  so  far  as  they 
understood  it ; and  both  the  wishes  and  exhortations 
of  the  missionary  were  evaded  and  neglected.  So 
Chalmers  found,  and  although  his  new  broom  swept 
vigorously,  and  he  was  most  ably  seconded  in  all  his 
efforts  by  his  energetic  wife,  yet  he  could  not  sweep 
away  effectively  many  of  the  abuses  that  vexed  his  soul. 

From  one  of  the  first  long  letters  which  he  sent  home 
after  he  had  fairly  settled  down  to  work  we  take  a few 
extracts. 

‘ That  curse  of  all  curses  has  come  to  this  island — 
strong  drink.  There  is  a law  against  its  being  brought 
ashore,  but  unprincipled  foreigners  manage  to  smuggle 
it,  and  sell  it  to  the  natives.  The  effects  are  fearful 
and  heartrending.  I believe  were  thinking  men  at  home 
to  see  the  effects  of  drink  amongst  these  natives,  they 
would  never  taste  another  drop,  but  would  rise  up  to 
a man  and  cry  shame  upon  those  men  who  not  only 
break  the  laws  of  a weak  people,  but  also  give  them, 
in  exchange  for  their  labour,  money,  or  coffee,  a poison 
which  is  destroying  them  fast.  The  churches  have 
suffered  fearfully  from  it.  Our  young  men  have  given 
themselves  up  to  intoxication,  and  one  after  another 
falls  a victim.  All  the  people  are  scrofulous,  so  that 
firewater  takes  effect  sooner  upon  them. 

‘ As  missionary  I am  consulted  on  every  important 
point,  and  my  decision  generally  is  taken  as  settling 
any  question.  Take  as  an  illustration  this  : Before 
Mr.  Krause  left  we  had  been  talking  on  the  kava 


84  Life  on  Rarotonga 

(strong  drink)  question,  and  thought  that  it  might  be 
best  perhaps  to  abolish  the  restrictive  law,  and  allow 
drink  to  be  landed  under  a heavy  tax,  and  the  holding 
of  a licence  for  its  sale.  I was  not  quite  clear  on  the  point. 
However,  I\Ir.  Krause  laid  it  before  the  king  and  his 
inataiapos^  and  urged  the  acceptance  of  it.  This  action 
I thought  premature,  but  said  nothing.  Two  or  three 
were  anxious  to  have  it  settled  at  once ; but  I advised 
delay,  and  also  suggested  the  calling  of  a meeting  zi  all 
the  chiefs  and  judges  of  the  island  before  doing  any- 
thing. However,  it  was  taken  as  settled  that  the  old 
law  was  abolished,  and  all  that  was  required  was  to  call 
a meeting  of  the  head  chiefs  and  get  a new  law  passed. 

‘ This  was  on  a ^Monday.  On  the  Friday  following 
Mr.  Krause  left  Rarotonga,  so  that  I stepped  into  the 
entire  charge  of  the  Mission.  The  meeting  of  chiefs 
was  held  on  the  Tuesday  following  hir.  Krause’s 
departure.  I was  in  trouble — great  trouble.  I prayed 
to  God,  and  I felt  it  was  my  duty  to  oppose  this 
abolition  or  repeal  of  the  old  law.  On  the  morning  of 
the  meeting  a few  of  the  old  men  who  hold  a strong 
position  in  the  land,  and  who  know  what  Rarotonga 
was  in  its  heathen  state,  came  to  me,  and  asked  what 
1 meant  to  do.  They  advised  me  to  oppose  the  aboli- 
tion. This  strengthened  me.  We  prayed  to  God,  and 
asked  His  direction. 

‘ I went  to  the  meeting.  There  sat  all  the  chiefs  and 
great  men  with  a number  of  foreigners.  I felt  that  a 
trial  of  strength  was  at  hand.  All  were  assembled  in 
the  full  expectation  of  the  promulgation  of  a new  law, 
and  the  foreigners  were  all  ready  to  take  out  licences. 
The  parliament  was  opened  by  prayer.  The  chief  judge 
of  the  Avarua  district  laid  the  matter  before  the  neigh- 
bouring chiefs,  and  only  asked  them  for  their  assent. 


Meeting  of  Chiefs  85 

He  sat  down,  and  as  he  was  addicted  to  drink  himself 
he  was  pleased  with  the  thought  that  he  could  now 
drink  as  much  as  he  chose.  At  that  time  I myself  did 
not  know  he  was  given  to  the  evil  habit.  Next,  one 
of  the  chiefs — a known  and  confirmed  drunkard — was 
asked  to  speak.  He  declined,  saying,  “ What  does  my 
missionary  say  ? ” I tried  to  avoid  speaking  at  this 
stage,  and  wished  that  some  other  chiefs  should  speak 
first ; but  they  all  pressed  me  to  give  my  views.  At 
length  I said  that  I had  earnestly  prayed  to  God  that 
the  law  might  not  be  changed  so  long  as  I was  in 
Rarotonga.  I added  a few  words  to  this,  but  my  speech 
was  short. 

‘ It  was  sufficient ; nothing  more  was  said  by  the 
chiefs,  but  the  chief  judge  of  Avarua  was  enraged. 
The  missionary  holds  great  power  in  cases  of  this  kind. 
May  he  hold  it  for  Christ ! I need  not  say  that  my 
countrymen  love  me  none  the  more  for  the  action  I felt 
bound  to  take. 

‘ After  this  decision  I felt  we  must  not  stand  still,  but 
at  once  put  the  law  in  force.  Yet  I had  not  then  a right 
understanding  of  the  working  of  this  engine  of  Satan — 

I mean  the  strong  drink,  I spoke  alike  to  the  chiefs 
and  to  the  people  ; still  drunkenness  did  not  cease  from 
the  land,  but  the  foreigners  were  becoming  a little  more 
afraid.  Bit  by  bit  I began  to  get  information,  I was 
told  that  the  foreigners,  assisted  by  natives,  brought  it 
ashore  during  the  night,  and  gave  it  out  to  natives  to 
sell  for  them.  My  native  teachers  and  students  also 
were  all  on  the  look-out.  Something  had  to  be  done, 

‘ But  I could  do  little  or  nothing,  until  one  Saturday 
I was  out  riding,  and  looking  about.  My  horse  stopped 
at  the  house  of  the  chief  judge.  He  had  been  ailing  for 
some  time,  so  I went  to  see  him.  It  struck  me  as  strange 


86 


Life  on  Rarotonga 

that  the  doors  were  all  shut,  and  that  there  was  a com- 
motion within.  At  length  I oralned  admittance,  and 

o o 

found  the  chief  judge’s  wife,  with  dishevelled  hair,  in 
the  centre  of  the  room,  crying.  The  son  of  the  chief 
judge  was  the  worse  for  drink,  and  I charged  him  with 
it,  and  instantly  asked  for  his  father.  But  the  father 
had  fled. 

‘ I left  the  house,  and  made  for  the  king’s  ; but  on  my 
arrival  I found  that  he  was  not  at  home.  I rode  up  to 
our  own  house,  and  heard  loud  crying,  as  of  one  in  deep 
distress.  It  came  from  a house  near  by.  I left  my 
horse,  and  went  over  to  the  place.  There  I found  a 
husband  drunk,  and  beating  his  wife.  After  some  per- 
suasion, I got  him  to  accompany  me.  Mrs.  Chalmers 
gave  him  tea  with  a good  quantity  of  carbonate  of  soda 
in  it,  and  this  brought  him  to  his  senses.  He  told  me 
that  the  king,  the  chief  judge  and  others  could  all  be 
found  drinking. 

‘ I made  for  the  king’s  house.  He  had  come  home, 
and  was  afraid  of  meeting  the  missionar}".  I took  him 
with  me,  and  he  slept  that  night  in  our  house.  Now 
what  could  be  done  to  put  an  end  to  this  ? A week 
before  I had  refused  to  permit  two  casks  of  wine  to  be 
landed  on  the  island.  I spoke  to  the  deacons  and 
others,  and  we  decided  to  hold  meetings  in  all  the 
villages,  or  rather  in  three  of  the  principal  villages. 
The  drunken  party  were  all  at  church  on  the  Sabbath. 
Although  they  had  been  drunk  the  night  before,  they 
did  not  absent  themselves  from  the  House  of  Prayer. 
This  made  it  more  difficult  to  find  out  the  real  doers 
of  evil. 

‘ On  the  Monday  our  king,  the  chief  judge,  his  son, 
and  the  other  man  were  all  tried,  fined,  and  admonished 
faithfully  by  the  judges.  The  chief  judge  was  disrated. 


Law  against  Drink  87 

his  power  being  taken  from  him.  On  the  Wednesday 
we  had  our  first  meeting,  and  several  spoke.  The  king 
promised  to  do  better,  and  asked  the  people  to  pray  for 
him.  The  law  was  upheld,  and  prayers  were  presented 
earnestly  to  God.  On  Thursday,  at  another  village,  we 
had  a meeting,  and  there  was  much  shedding  of  tears, 
and  all  the  people  said  Amen  when  they  were  called 
upon  to  uphold  the  laws.  It  was  a glorious  season. 
On  Friday  we  went  to  another  village  and  held  another 
meeting,  which  was  truly  solemn.  At  each  of  these 
gatherings  the  chiefs  promised  to  uphold  the  law,  and 
the  people  pledged  themselves  to  assist  them.  The 
ringleaders  and  the  men  who  sold  the  spirit  have 
confessed  their  faults,  and  to  all  human  appearance  feel 
truly  humbled  before  God.  They  have  declared  openly 
their  desire  to  leave  off  strong  drink.  They  were 
urgent  in  their  desire  to  live  with  me,  and  at  the  people’s 
and  their  own  earnest  request  I have  received  them  into 
the  Institution.  God  alone  knows  what  the  future  is, 
but  we  leave  them  in  His  hands.  Nor  is  this  all ; two 
foreigners  on  the  island  who  have  been  grog-sellers 
have  solemnly  promised  not  to  sell  any  more.’ 

Writing  to  his  old  pastor,  Mr.  Meikle,  at  this  time, 
Chalmers  said : — 

‘ The  people  are  well  advanced  in  knowledge  and  in 
civilization  after  forty  years  of  teaching.  Sins  such  as 
theft  and  adultery  they  do  not  consider  very  bad.  The 
former  is  not  an  evil  to  which  they  are  much  addicted 
now  ; but  the  latter,  I am  sorry  to  say,  prevails  to  a great 
extent. 

‘ There  is  work  in  abundance  for  two  on  this  island, 
but  when  I consider  the  state  of  other  parts  of  the  world 
I dare  not  ask  for  a colleague.  We  have  no  time  to 
rust  here.  We  are  both  in  excellent  health  and  spirits. 


88 


Lile  on  Rarotonga 

Christ’s  glory  and  man’s  eternal  good  are  all  we  seek. 
Oh  that  we  saw  all  on  this  island  Christ’s  ; and  until  we 
do  we  dare  not  rest,  but  bj"  prayer  and  supplication  and 
labours  oft  we  must  wrestle  and  struggle  and  patiently 
wait  and  look  for  the  promised  blessing.  I trust  that 
already  the  clouds  are  breaking,  and  there  are  the 
droppings  of  an  abundant  shower  to  foUow.  "Will 
Inveraray  give  another  for  foreign  work  ? Christ  calls  ; 
souls  are  perishing;  the  grain  is  white,  white  unto 
han’est,  but  where  are  the  labourers  ? It  would  cheer 
my  heart  to  hear  that  one  or  more  of  my  old  com- 
panions had  so  given  himself  to  Christ  that  he  heard 
the  call,  “ Come  over  and  help  us,”  and  responded, 
“ Here  am  I,  send  me.”  ’ 

!Mrs.  Chalmers,  writing  home  a few  months  later, 
gauges  the  situation  accurately,  with  her  clear  woman’s 
insight ; — 

‘ Lateh'  there  has  been  less  strong  drink  amongst  us, 
but  it  will  take  some  time  to  know  whether  the  apparent 
reformation  is  real.  !Many  are  anxious  to  abide  by  the 
laws,  and  do  what  is  right,  and  of  late  some  vigorous 
efforts  have  been  made  by  the  judges  to  enforce  the 
laws.  The  secret  is  that  the  king  sets  no  good  example, 
and  does  not  keep  up  his  position  or  dignity.  He  is 
not  at  aU  respected,  and  if  he  does  not  take  care,  soon 
no  one  will  g;ive  anv  heed  to  what  he  savs. 

‘ It  will  take  us  a lono-  time  to  thoroughlv  understand 
the  native  character.  Their  standard  of  morality  is  low, 
and  the  sins  of  theft,  lying,  and  adultery  are  verj* 
common.  They  know  that  such  actions  are  wrong,  and 
when  an}'  one  has  been  proved  to  have  been  guilty  of 
such  offences  they  are  put  out  of  church  membership, 
and  are  fined  by  the  judges ; but  there  it  stops.  After 
the  fine  is  paid  they  are  received  as  formerly.  Real 


Slow  but  steady  Progress  89 

shame  for  such  sin  they  do  not  feel,  nor  can  it  easily  be 
impressed  upon  them  that  such  deeds  are  truly  great 
sins  in  God’s  sight. 

‘ It  will  take  a long  time,  probably  several  genera- 
tions, before  the  natives  see  and  feel  as  they  ought  on 
these  points.  But  when  we  remember  that  fifty  years 
ago  the  inhabitants  of  the  island  were  wild  savages,  it  is 
a marvel  to  see  them  as  they  now  are.  The  change  is 
great,  and  remembering  what  they  then  were,  and  seeing 
what  they  now  are,  we  are  constrained  to  cry  out, 
“ What  great  things  hath  God  wrought ! ” in  our  midst. 

‘ The  natives  have  to  be  treated  and  led  in  all  things 
more  like  children  at  home  than  men.  They  soon  get 
weary  and  discouraged  in  any  work,  but  a few  words 
of  praise  or  encouragement  put  fresh  spirit  within 
them.’ 

Early  in  his  life  in  Rarotonga  Chalmers,  like  all  men 
of  bold,  decisive  action,  found  himself  exposed  to 
criticism.  And  although  the  chiefs  and  natives  never 
offered  active  opposition  to  his  wishes  and  doings,  his 
efforts  were  constantly  foiled  in  many  quarters  by 
passive  resistance.  Rumours  of  his  views  and  deeds, 
usually  through  imperfectly  informed  channels,  reached 
his  missionary  brethren  in  other  islands,  and  even  came 
to  the  ears  of  the  Directors  at  home.  In  reply  to 
a letter  from  them  asking  what  changes  he  had  been 
introducing  into  the  mission,  he  gave,  in  June,  1869,  an 
apologia  for  his  methods  of  a very  characteristic  order. 
He  writes : — 

‘ I have  returned  to  the  old  ways  of  Pitman  and 
Buzacott  in  several  respects,  I grant,  believing  them  to 
be  best  and  right.  True,  I have  entirely  done  away 
with  the  purchase  of  food  for  the  students,  and  have 
every  cause  for  thankfulness  I did  so  at  the  outset.  The 


90 


Life  on  Rarotonga 

students  now  have  more  and  better  food,  and  have 
more  time  to  plant,  weed,  and  prepare  for  classes  than 
they  ever  had  in  former  days.  It  may  be  well  for  me 
to  explain. 

‘ Since  the  establishment  of  the  Institution  In  Mr. 
Buzacott’s  time  the  students  had  never  more  than  two 
days  in  the  week  to  themselves — Saturday  and  Sabbath. 
From  Monday  to  Friday  they  were  emplo3'ed.  At 
eight  a.m.  they  came  to  class,  and  at  nine  retired  for 
work,  manual  labour,  and  continued  at  said  manual 
labour  till  three  p.m.  when  they  bathed,  and  prepared 
for  the  four  o’clock  class.  If  they  were  not  employed 
in  the  workshop,  or  on  the  premises,  they  were  in  the 
woods  searching  for  wood.  Thej-  were  fed  in  those 
days  at  the  Society’s  expense.  Now  the}'  plant  their 
own  food,  and  the  following  is  the  routine. 

‘ On  Monda}'  at  eight  a.m.,  after  dispensing  medicine, 
I meet  the  students  for  two  hours,  when  we  go  over 
part  of  one  of  Dr.  Bogue’s  lectures  on  theology,  printed 
b}'  Mr.  Buzacott.  From  nine  to  ten  we  go  over  a Psahn 
together,  and  at  ten  they  are  free  for  the  day.  On 
Tuesday  we  meet  at  the  same  hour  and  go  over  the 
Scripture  lesson  tor  the  day.  At  present  we  are  going 
through  the  Book  of  Daniel.  From  nine  to  ten 
geography  and  arithmetic.  On  M'ednesday  we  have 
no  classes,  this  being  the  day  I have  appointed  to  meet 
with  inquirers  and  those  seeking  admission  to  the 
church.  On  Thursday  from  eight  to  nine  Romans, 
and  from  nine  to  ten  grammar.  Frida}'  eight  to  nine 
church  histor}',  and  nine  to  ten  sermon  class.  Mrs. 
Chalmers  has  also  two  hours  on  like  days  with  the 
women  for  Bible  instruction,  arithmetic,  and  sewing. 
For  each  of  the  classes.  Psalms,  Daniel,  Romans,  and 
church  histor}',  I write  out  the  lessons,  and  allow  them 


The  Training  Institution  91 

to  take  copies  for  their  own  use.  They  keep  the 
premises  in  order,  and  get  through  that  part  of  their 
work  in  a very  short  time.  At  present  they  are 
cleaning  the  coffee  subscribed  this  year  to  the  Society. 
I allow  them  a little  food  every  day  whilst  at  it,  seeing 
it  is  a long,  heavy  task. 

‘ The  students  are  making  progress  in  their  studies, 
and  I believe  those  at  present  in  the  Institution  know 
more  than  any  former  students,  this  being  due  to  their 
having  more  time  for  preparation.  They  are  required 
to  prepare  for  all  the  classes.  They  are  good  earnest 
men  and  women,  not,  I hope,  mere  moral  characters, 
but  men  and  women  who  know  what  faith  in  Christ, 
the  Crucified  One,  means.  They  are  men  and  women 
who  have  tasted  of  the  Water  of  Life,  and  who  having 
experienced  the  joy  of  believing,  and  the  salvation 
of  their  souls,  are  anxious  that  others,  especially  those 
shrouded  in  heathen  darkness,  should  become  par- 
takers of  like  blessings.  They  are  anxious  to  carry 
the  Light  of  Truth  to  dark  lands,  and  although  we 
may  tremble  to  think  that  real  and  new  advance  on 
the  kingdom  of  darkness  is  always  attended  with 
suffering,  they,  knowing  it  also,  are  anxious  to  go. 
The  Father  will  baptize  them  for  the  hour  of  suffering. 

‘ Allow  me  here  to  say  we  also  would  willingly  go, 
and  to  that  holy  sacred  work  of  lifting  up  Christ 
before  a heathen  people  consecrate  ourselves  and  our 
all.  Another,  who  has  long  laboured,  and  by  ex- 
perience been  truly  fitted  for  work  like  my  present 
duties  on  Rarotonga,  might  do  better  than  we  can ; 
and  we  who  are  yet  young,  and  in  good  health, 
enjoying  tropical  life  thoroughly,  might,  with  a few 
of  these  students,  go  down  to  the  west,  and  in  the 
Northern  New  Hebrides  establish  a mission,  and  lift 


92 


Life  on  Rarotonga 

up  Christ,  the  d^peller  of  all  darkness.  Send  Brother 
Gill  or  Green  here,  and  we  two  wiU  go  west  to  the 
heathen. 

‘ Another  change  I have  made  is  in  the  church.  For 
many  years,  since  the  first  missionaries  left,  as  stated 
by  the  deacons — the  ordinance  of  the  Lord’s  Supper 
has  been  sadly  abused  by  the  church  members.  They 
literally  drank  of  the  wine  or  the  mixture — cocoanut 
milk  and  wine.  At  all  the  stations  I preached  on  the 
subject,  and  exhorted  them  to  better  behaviour ; but 
still  the  abuse  continued.  So  eventually  I did  away 
entirely  with  foreign  wine,  and  confined  ourselves 
entirely  to  the  cocoanut  milk.  Since  then  the  ordi- 
nance has  been  observed  decently  and  In  order.  ^ 

‘ We  have  no  great  numbers  coming  to  seek  admission 
to  the  church.  Stih  a few  are  attending  the  classes. 
Our  greatest  enemy  at  present  is  strong  drink — foreign 
and  native.  Auckland  traders  supply  us  with  the 
former,  and  the  oranges  the  latter.  Sometimes  a church 
member  is  enticed  away  through  drink,  and  falls. 
Occasionally  one  or  two  are  led  to  see  the  evils  of  it. 
They  leave  it  off,  and  seek  to  live  better  for  the  future. 
Much  prayer  is  being  presented  to  the  throne  of  God’s 
grace  for  the  revival  of  religion  among  us.  All  our 
services  are  well  attended,  and  we  hope  that  soon  we 
will  hear  the  sound  of  rain,  blessed  with  God’s  great 
blessing,  the  Holy  Spirit. 

‘ Since  our  arrival  I have  visited  all  the  stations, 
alternately  preaching  at  each  once  a month.  During 
the  week — on  Wednesday  especially — I sometimes  ride 
out  to  one  or  other  of  the  settlements,  see  the  teachers 
and  deacons,  converse  with  them,  and  if  there  are  any 
matters  requiring  attention,  attend  to  them.  Once 
every  three  months  I meet  my  teachers,  when  we 


93 


Quality  of  Native  Teachers 

discuss  the  state  of  the  churches,  and  pray  together  for 
God’s  blessing  on  the  work.  These  meetings  are  foun- 
tains of  blessing  to  the  whole  island.  At  all  the  stations 
great  attention  is  being  paid  to  the  training  of  the 
young,  and  at  present  all  are  preparing  for  our  next 
August  competitive  examination. 

‘ I am  well  pleased  with  the  teachers,  more  especially 
with  two  of  them:  Maretu,  Mr.  Pitman’s  old  helper, 
and  Teava,  Mr.  Buzacott’s  co-pastor.  With  pleasure  I 
can  listen  to  their  preaching.  The  latter  and  Mr.  Krause 
disagreed,  and  could  not  draw  together;  but  I am 
happy  to  say  I find  him  a good,  intelligent,  earnest 
teacher — one  of  the  best.  The  sick  and  the  dying  are  j 
visited  by  him.  He  does  not,  as  many  teachers  do, 
throw  off  the  fallen,  but  he  constantly  visits  them,  and 
by  reading,  exhortation,  and  prayer  strives  to  win  them 
back  again  to  God.  He  alone  of  all  of  us  commands 
the  entire  and  solemn  attention  of  the  people  on  the 
Sabbaths  when  he  preaches.’ 

In  August,  1869,  Chalmers  received  the  sad  news  of 
the  very  sudden  death  of  his  father,  an  event  which  had 
happened  long  months  before  the  tidings  could  reach 
that  out  of  the  way  corner  of  the  Pacific.  It  was  his 
father’s  business  to  keep  some  of  the  roads  near 
Inveraray  in  repair.  He  had  gone  out  one  morning  as 
usual  to  attend  to  his  duties,  and  was  found  by  the 
workmen,  a little  later,  lying  dead  by  the  roadside.  It 
was  an  additional  sorrow  to  him  that  this  loss  came  just 
at  the  time  when  he  was  hoping  and  planning  to  make 
the  closing  years  of  his  parents’  lives  free  from  pecu- 
niary cares.  His  letters  at  this  time  are  full  of  gracious 
plans  for  lightening  the  sorrow  and  needs  of  the  mother, 
towards  whom  he  always  so  lovingly  expressed  the 
deep  respect  and  tender  affection  he  cherished. 


94 


Life  on  Rarotonga 

A year  or  two  later  there  came  from  Inveraray  news 
of  a ver\’  different  kind.  ‘ We  are  delighted,’  he  writes, 
‘ with  the  prospect  of  Lord  Lome  marrying  a princess. 
Britain’s  sons  will  marrv  Britain's  dautrhters ! If  Britain 
is  ever  a Republic  Arg\-U  will  be  President!  So  we 
think  in  this  far  away  island  of  the  sea,’ 

Chalmers'  freedom  from  conventionalism,  and  readiness 
to  take  advantage  of  passing  events  for  the  furtherance  of 
his  great  work,  is  weU  illustrated  in  his  Report  for  1870. 

‘ We  are  near  the  close  of  a vear  which  has  brought 
to  us  many  blessings  as  a church  and  people,  ^^’e 
began  the  year  with  the  week  of  prayer  ; old  and  young, 
chiefs  and  people,  aU  came,  and  ever}'  morning  for  one 
week,  one  hour  each  morning.  All  engaged  in  asking 
blessings : onlv  the  sick  remained  at  home.  It  is  true 
that  many  attended  from  a superstitious  feeling  that  if 
they  were  not  present  something  might  happen  to  them. 
Since  then  I believe  we  have  been  mo\*ing  steadily 
forward.  IMany  have  come  asking  what  they  must  do 
to  be  saved,  and  have  been  told  of  salvation  by  faith  in 
Christ.  They  have  returned,  having,  I trust,  been  led 
to  Christ,  and  have  sought  admission  to  the  church. 
A number  of  men  and  women  who  for  years  have  been 
out  of  the  church,  being  expelled  because  of  sin,  have 
come  desiring  to  return,  having  by  their  profession 
repented  of  their  sins  and  believed  in  Christ  as  their 
Sataour.  The  young  people  formed  themselves  into 
classes  for  prayer,  and  the  reading  of  the  Word  of  God, 
a deacon  or  returned  teacher  being  placed  over  them. 
On  my  return  to  the  island  from  visiting  the  out-stations 
I found  large  inquirers’  classes  of  men  and  women,  old 
and  young,  the  majority  of  them  old  church  members. 
The  teachers  and  deacons  at  each  of  the  settlements 
were  teaching  them  of  Christ. 


95 


Native  Volunteer  Corps 

‘ About  two  years  ago  there  was  started  by  the  beer 
drinkers  at  this  settlement  a volunteer  corps.  They 
were  drilled  by  a man  who  had  been  in  Tahiti  for  some 
time.  They  had  been  practising  drill  some  time  before 
I knew  anything  of  it.  They  were  recognized  by  the 
chiefs,  and  the  majority  were  men  who  for  many  years 
had  never  attended  any  service  of  any  kind.  I knew 
them  only  by  seeing  them  in  their  sacred  grove  at 
night,  around  orange  beer  barrels  and  a great  fire,  naked 
and  fierce.  Sabbath  and  week-day  were  both  alike  to 
them.  They  were  unknown  to  the  missionaries.  Well, 
these  men  met  for  drill,  and  I felt  that  here  was  a new 
thing  growing  up  amongst  us,  which,  if  seized  and 
guided,  might  be  turned  to  good  account.  If  it  were 
left  alone,  or  if  any  attempt  were  made  to  put  an  end 
to  it,  evil  would  result.  I had  no  power  to  stop  it,  even 
had  I desired  to  do  so,  which  certainly  I did  not. 

‘ Weeks  passed,  and  at  length  I saw  these  men  and 
said  to  them,  “ You  meet  for  drill,  why  do  you  not  come 
to  church  on  the  Sabbath  instead  of  living  even  worse 
lives  than  your  fathers  when  in  heathenism?  If  you 
remain  volunteers  you  must  come  to  church.”  I told 
them  I did  not  wish  them  to  give  up  drilling.  And 
I did  so  because  I felt  that  I had  a better  chance  of 
speaking  to  them  when  they  were  sober  and  at  drill. 
The  following  Sabbath  a few  came  to  the  service,  but 
not  all.  I addressed  them  as  young  men  belonging  to 
a volunteer  corps  of  their  own  formation,  and  I pressed 
them  to  make  Christ  their  portion,  their  captain,  and  to 
believe  on  Him  as  their  Saviour. 

‘ The  idea  took ; they  were  now  volunteers,  and  of 
some  account,  and  soon  aU  began  to  attend  church 
regularly.  I then  asked  them  to  meet  separately  at 
other  times  for  instruction  and  prayer,  and  this  they 


96  Life  on  Rarotonga 

did.  Drinking  diminished,  and  the  drilling  became 
verj’  popular.  I formed  them  into  classes  for  reading, 
writing,  and  arithmetic.  On  Sabbaths  they  met  by 
themselves  under  the  superintendence  of  a teacher, 
after  the  conclusion  of  the  forenoon  service,  and  went 
over  the  sermon  which  had  just  been  preached,  sang 
a hymn,  and  engaged  in  prayer.  I held  a Bible  class 
with  them  everj’  Sabbath  evening,  and  on  Thursday 
morning  taught  them  English.  They  all  began  planting 
their  lands  and  doing  eveiything  possible  to  get  new 
clothes  to  attend  drill,  meetings,  and  church.  They 
became  interested  in  the  sertuces,  and  I kept  on 
encouraging  volunteering,  as  I felt  good  was  being 
done.  The  beer  drinking  diminished,  and  we  had  full 
instead  of  empty  seats  in  the  galler}'. 

‘ When  it  was  necessary  to  repair  the  church  these 
young  men  cut  aU  the  coral  required  for  the  platform 
and  the  staircase.  They  became  thoroughly  concerned 
about  all  that  belonged  to  the  church,  and  veiy^  many  of 
them  are  now,  I trust,  veiy'  much  interested  in  the  Great 
Head  of  the  Church.  God  has  answered  prayer,  and 
the  majority,  if  they  have  not  found  Christ  precious, 
feel  their  need,  I trust,  and  will  be  found  of  Him.  But 
for  the  volunteering,  begim,  as  described,  by  themselves, 
they  might  stiU  be  living  unknown  in  the  bush  in 
wickedness.  I could  not  frown  upon  them.  I thought 
it  a good  opportunity  to  be  of  help  to  them. 

‘ For  some  time  we  have  felt  it  desirable  to  interest  the 
natives  in  what  was  taking  place  outside  of  our  island. 
There  are  also  many  things  we  wish  to  speak  to  them 
about  which  can  hardly  find  a place  in  the  pulpit,  so 
we  have  begun  a monthly  newspaper  of  four  pages. 
It  contains  short  articles  on  the  subjects  that  happen 
to  be  uppermost  at  the  time,  shipping  news,  news 


A Monthly  Newspaper  97 

from  other  islands,  pieces  culled  from  newspapers  and 
books,  letters  from  natives,  articles  on  history  and  also 
small  pieces  on  Scripture.  The  natives  are  much  in- 
terested in  it,  and  look  out  for  the  first  of  the  month 
when  it  is  issued.  Our  printing-press  is  bad  and  our 
materials  few.  The  children  say  they  will  buy  a new 
press,  but  it  remains  to  be  seen  if  they  can  secure 
enough. 

‘ Every  Tuesday  evening  is  set  apart  by  the  students 
here  for  prayer  for  those  who  have  gone  forth  to  link 
Rarotonga  anew  to  the  work  of  God  among  the 
heathen.  We  are  all  in  good  health  and  have  plenty  to 
do.  I am  engaged  from  four  a.m.  to  nine  p.m.  I rest 
by  going  round  the  island  occasionally.  I occasionally 
ride  out  on  an  afternoon  and  meet  the  teachers  at 
their  homes  with  a few  deacons  or  church  members, 
or  have  those  seeking  admission  to  the  church  to  come 
and  meet  me.  When  not  very  well,  I set  off  to  the 
mountains,  getting  where  natives  have  never  been,  and 
feel  aU  right  the  following  day. 

‘ Now  and  again  I visit  the  evening  prayer  meetings, 
or  it  may  be  a meeting  in  the  bush  where  some  have 
met  to  drink  beer  or  orange  rum.  I am  not  very 
welcome  at  the  latter,  yet  they  know  me,  say  nothing, 
and  when  told,  empty  out  their  rum  upon  the  grass. 
After  they  have  done  this  I speak  to  them  of 
Christ.’ 

These  unconventional  actions  of  Chalmers  came  to 
the  ears  of  his  nearest  neighbour,  the  venerable  Henry 
Royle  of  Aitutaki,  who  had  spent  over  forty  years  on 
that  island  with  only  one  brief  furlough,  and  who  was 
a splendid  missionary  of  the  early  type.  In  a long 
letter,  Mr.  Royle  expostulated  with  his  ‘ young  friend  ’ 
for  hankering  after  work  among  the  heathen,  and 

G 


98  Life  on  Rarotonga 

quoted  the  following  passage  from  a letter  which 
Chalmers  had  written  to  him. 

‘"\^’'e  left  our  home  for  the  heathen— to  teach  unen- 
lightened people  the  way  of  salvation  through  Christ — 
and  there  still  are  our  hearts.  The  few  years  spent 
here  will  be  useful  in  the  future.  i\Iy  dear  brother, 
keep  us  not — urge  us  on.  \^’e  desire — desire  earnestly, 
to  spend  and  be  spent  among  the  heathen.  Christ 
urges  us  on.’ 

Royle  stated  that  this  expression  of  earnest  desire  pro- 
duced in  him  ‘ a gush  of  pity,’  and  he  tries  to  convince 
Chalmers  that  his  restlessness  was  dishonourable  to  the 
Board  of  Directors,  and  otherwise  to  be  deprecated. 
At  the  ‘ novel  method  of  administering  religious  ordi- 
nances through  the  medium  of  military'  evolutions,’  he 
is  almost  aghast.  He  thinks  that  those  who  neglect 
‘ the  cultivation  of  home  virtues,  and  the  peaceful  pur- 
suits of  industry  to  learn  the  barbarous  art  of  carnage 
and  slaughter  ought  not  to  be  admitted  into  instruction 
classes.’ 

Chalmers  returned  the  letter  to  Royle  endorsed  with 
the  assertion  that  it  was  unlike  his  old  friend,  that  it  was 
‘ full  of  misstatement,’  and  added,  ‘ W'e  are  both  verj" 
well,  verv'  happy,  and  ver\'  busy.’ 

Royle  dispatched  another  letter  to  Chalmers,  and 
finally  sent  the  whole  correspondence  home  to  Dr. 
Mullens,  who  seems  to  have  approved  of  some  of  the 
actions  which  Royle  condemned.  Both  were  Christian 
men,  both  were  noble  missionary'  workers,  both  had  the 
welfare  of  the  nations  and  the  extension  of  Christ’s 
kingdom  at  heart.  The  cloud  soon  passed  and  the  old 
friendly  relations  re-established  themselves.  In  the  heart 
of  the  younger  man  the  desire  to  be  off  to  the  tribes 
still  in  the  darkness  of  the  shadow  of  death  grew  ever 


99 


Henry  Royle 

stronger.  With  the  retirement  of  Henry  Royle  in  1876 
there  passed  from  the  Polynesian  Mission  the  last  of  the 
old  type  of  missionary,  the  men  who  laid  so  broadly  and  so 
well  the  foundations  of  the  Christian  Church  in  Polynesia. 

From  the  early  days  of  his  settlement  on  Rarotonga 
Chalmers  made  no  secret  of  his  desire  to  be  chosen  as 
a missionary  to  the  fierce  and  barbarous  heathen,  of 
whom  there  were  still  so  many  who  had  never  yet  had 
an  opportunity  of  hearing  the  Gospel,  and  to  whom  not 
even  a native  evangelist  or  teacher  had  been  sent.  Like 
Livingstone  he  felt  that  the  islands  and  tribes  which  had 
been  long  evangelized  might  now  safely  be  left  to  native 
pastors  and  teachers,  with  only  slight  European  super- 
vision. For  this  work,  and  for  the  duty  of  training 
native  teachers,  he  felt  that  there  were  many  better 
qualified  than  himself,  who  would  feel  these  quieter 
and  safer  duties  less  irksome  than  he  did.  He  had 
the  instinct  of  the  pioneer ; he  was  dominated  by  that 
energy  of  a noble  restlessness  which  was  ever  urging 
him  onwards  towards  ‘ the  regions  beyond.’  John 
Williams,  in  an  earlier  generation,  had  had  to  overcome 
the  opposition  of  colleagues  and  the  objections  of  home 
authorities  ; and  Chalmers  now  had  to  convince  similar 
gainsayers,  although  he  was  not  without  encouragement 
both  at  home  and  in  the  field.  But  God  had  a noble 
work  in  store  for  His  whole-hearted  and  devoted  servant, 
and  step  by  step  the  way  was  made  plain  for  the  young 
missionary  that  led  from  the  quiet  round  of  daily  tasks 
in  Rarotonga  to  those  thrilling  years  in  New  Guinea,  so 
full  of  adventure,  of  peril,  of  hairbreadth  escapes,  of 
successful  presentation  of  the  glad  tidings  to  multitudes 
who  had  never  before  heard  the  name  of  Jesus,  or 
realized  the  meaning  of  such  graces  as  love  and  peace 
and  pardon  and  light. 


lOO 


Life  on  Rarotonga 

As  early  as  January,  1872,  Wyatt  Gill  of  Mangaia 
wrote  home  to  Dr.  Mullens  : — 

‘I  would  again  earnestly  beg  of  you  on  no  account 
to  remove  the  Rev.  J.  Chalmers  from  Rarotonga.  He 
has  acquired  the  language  and  wields  great  influence 
over  the  natives.  He  occupies  a most  important  posi- 
tion as  head  of  the  Institution  for  training  the  native 
ministry',  besides  superintending  the  printing-press.  To 
insist  upon  his  removal  at  the  present  juncture  involves 
the  destruction  of  the  Hervey  Group  ^Mission.' 

The  occasion  of  this  letter  was  the  determination  ol 
the  Directors  of  the  London  IMissionar)*  Society  to  begin 
a mission  in  the  then  almost  absolutely  unknown  island- 
continent  of  New  Guinea.  This  was  an  undertaking 
entirely  after  Chahners’  own  heart.  He  earnestly 
besought  the  home  authorities  to  allow  him  to  go,  and 
already  the  keen  insight  of  Dr,  MuUens  had  enabled 
him  to  mark  the  young  Rarotongan  missionar)'  as  a 
man  likely  to  render  effective  service.  In  the  decrees 
of  Divine  Providence  it  was  alread)’  settled  that  he  was 
to  go  in  due  time  to  what  was  then  considered  the 
darkest,  most  degraded,  and  most  savage  tribes  and 
land  in  une^’angeHzed  Polynesia  ; but  five  long  years  ol 
missionar}*  tod.  yet  lay  between  his  heart’s  desire  and  its 
gratification.  These  years  he  fiUed  with  honest  work, 
not  with  idle  or  fruitless  complainings.  Not  allowed  to 
go  himself,  he  did  all  in  his  power  to  select  and  equip, 
from  the  men  under  his  care  in  the  Institution,  capable 
native  teachers  for  this  dangerous  ser\*ice. 

On  Januar}’  24,  1872,  he  wrote  to  Dr.  Mullens: — 

‘ The  students  are  all  looking  forward  with  great 
earnestness  to  their  being  required  for  New  Guinea. 
I do  hope  the  Directors  see  their  way  clear  to  begin  the 
mission,  and  so  allow  us  to  go  forth.  If  you  cannot 


Teachers  for  New  Guinea  loi 

begin  it  in  force,  let  us  try  it  by  skirmishing.  We  will 
go  with  two  or  three  students  and  take  possession.  The 
churches  on  Rarotonga  have  had  special  meetings  for 
prayer,  that  God  might  open  the  door,  so  that  His  Word 
should  be  known  on  New  Guinea.  At  every  Sabbath 
service  and  at  every  meeting  during  the  week  Papua 
is  mentioned  in  prayer.  We  cannot  rest  until  it  is 
thoroughly  commenced.  Let  nothing  hinder  us  to  take 
possession  in  the  name  of  Christ.  . . . Funds  will  be 
forthcoming  at  once  if  the  work  is  begun.’ 

That  year  the  great  work  was  begun,  and  from  Raro- 
tonga six  teachers  and  their  wives  were  carried  by  the 
John  Williams,  under  the  care  of  the  Rev.  A.  W.  Murray 
and  Wyatt  Gill,  to  New  Guinea,  and  landed  there  on  the 
mainland  in  the  Red  Scar  Bay  district  at  Manumanu. 
The  dedication  and  the  sending  away  of  these  pioneer 
evangelists,  as  Chalmers  notes  in  his  autobiography, 
stirred  the  whole  Christian  population  of  Rarotonga  to 
the  depths. 

But  Chalmers  could  not  yet  be  spared,  and  work 
went  on  as  usual  under  his  care.  His  popularity  with 
the  natives  increased  daily,  and  his  power  over  them 
deepened  week  by  week.  ‘ Even  the  drunkards  on 
Rarotonga,’  he  wrote  at  this  time,  ‘ rather  like  the 
missionary,  and  are  ever  ready  to  help  him  in  work. 
I have  frequently  been  in  the  midst  of  the  large  drinking 
meetings,  when  they  existed,  and  found  the  natives  in 
all  stages  of  drunkenness,  and  fighting,  yet  I always 
felt  quite  safe,  and  never  met  with  the  least  insult  or 
abuse  from  any  Rarotongan.  I made  it  a rule  that,  as 
I am  neither  policeman  nor  judge,  those  I find  drinking 
are  not  to  be  fined  ; the  chiefs  agree  with  me  in  this.’ 

This  action  and  statement  were  alike  characteristic ; 
and  so  is  another  from  his  correspondence  at  this  date. 


102  Life  on  Rarotonga 

He  had  for  years  been  anxious  to  visit  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Gill  on  the  island  of  Mangaia,  and  towards  the  close 
of  1871  he  and  ]\Irs.  Chalmers  were  able  to  spend 
several  happy  weeks  with  these  lifelong  friends.  In 
the  account  which  he  sent  home  of  this  visit  he  sketches 
the  following  picture,  the  accuracy  of  which  all  who 
knew  him  will  at  once  recognize : — 

‘ All  work  and  no  play  is  just  as  irksome  for  mis- 
sionaries— I mean  those  of  the  Rarotongan  stamp — 
as  for  boys.  I have  been  on  every  mountain-top  in 
Rarotonga,  and  there  are  few  valleys  I have  not  ex- 
plored. I find  a mountain  trip  excellent  medicine, 
and  so,  when  out  of  sorts,  and  not  quite  up  to  the 
mark  for  Jeremiah  or  Ezekiel,  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles 
or  Ephesians,  the  historv^  of  the  Jews  from  Malachi 
to  Christ,  or  my  condensed  History,  ancient  and 
modern,  I throw  down  the  pen  and  away  I go.  And 
it  is  the  same  here  in  Mangaia.  It  is  impossible  to 
be  with  Mr.  Gill  and  not  have  plenty  of  work,  and 
it  is  just  as  impossible  to  be  with  him  and  not  have 
some  play.’ 

The  traders  and  others  who  visited  Rarotonga  at 
this  time  frequently  denounced  the  mission  and  all  it^> 
works.  Statements  and  descriptions  already  quoted 
give  the  true  inwardness  of  such  criticism.  And  often 
they  were  in  no  sense  criticisms  of  men  or  of  methods, 
but  false  statements  deliberately  made  and  with  very 
evil  intent.  But  occasionally  men  of  another  stamp 
gave  their  views  of  the  work  done  in  these  islands. 
In  1872  a Christian  merchant  touched  at  Rarotonga, 
and  was  so  pleased  with  much  that  he  saw  there  that 
he  w'rote  an  account  home  to  the  Directors.  This  is 
what  he  found: — • 

‘ On  Sunday  I attended  Divine  service,  morning  and 


A Christian  Visitor 


103 


afternoon,  in  the  large  stone  church  at  Avarua ; also  two 
class-meetings  held  in  two  of  the  deacons’  houses  after 
the  morning  service,  for  the  purpose  of  discussing  the 
sermon.  In  the  afternoon  I addressed  a large  and 
excellently-conducted  Sunday-school — Mr.  Chalmers 
interpreting;  and  in  the  evening  I attended  two  of 
the  prayer-meetings,  similar  to  those  held  on  the  week- 
nights.  I had  also  the  privilege  of  addressing  them, 
and  was  afterwards  loaded  with  presents  of  mats,  bags, 
coffee,  fruit,  8z:c.  At  the  morning  service  in  the  church 
Mr.  Chalmers,  in  his  exposition  of  i Chronicles  xvii, 
urged  the  people  to  repair  the  walls  of  the  church 
and  churchyard,  which  considerably  needed  it.  When 
I called  at  the  island  the  next  time,  about  two  months 
later,  I found  that  the  call  had  been  promptly  responded 
to,  and  aU  the  work  done.  The  text  was  from  John 
xii.  32,  and  the  sermon  was  a powerful  appeal  to  young 
men  to  recruit  the  ranks  of  the  native  teachers,  several 
of  whom  had  left  the  previous  week,  in  the  Presbyterian 
mission  schooner  Day  spring,  for  Western  Polynesia.’ 
This  merchant  engaged  at  Rarotonga  a crew  of 
natives  for  a voyage  that  extended  over  some  months. 

‘ We  sailed  from  Rarotonga,’  he  wrote,  ‘ on  the  Tuesday 
evening  following  the  service  described  above,  and 
during  the  whole  voyage  of  twenty-two  days,  services 
were  held  uninterruptedly  at  six  o’clock  in  the  morning 
and  evening,  and  in  addition  to  these,  two  full  services 
every  Sunday.  A native  teacher,  Meariki,  accompanied 
the  party,  and,  as  customary,  was  chosen  by  the  men 
themselves,  his  election  being  confirmed  by  Mr. 
Chalmers.  He  usually  officiated,  but  six  or  seven  of 
the  men  were  able  to  lead  in  prayer,  and  three  or 
four  to  preach  also.  I question  if  I should  have  found 
this  state  of  things  among  a party  of  young  English 


104  Life  on  Rarotonga 

labourers,  selected  without  any  inquiry  on  this  subject. 
I never  shall  forget  the  quiet  enjoyment  of  those 
evening  services  on  the  beautiful  South  Pacific — all 
my  men  gathered  around  me  on  the  vessel’s  poop, 
singing  hymns,  which,  although  I could  not  under- 
stand, were  yet  set  to  old  tunes,  which  I had  known 
from  my  childhood,  and  sung  apparently  with  the 
heart  and  understanding  also : and  the  prayer,  although 
in  another  language  to  my  own,  was  yet,  I knew, 
ascending  with  mine  into  the  ear  of  Him  in  whose 
sight  we  were  all  equally  His  children.  The  first 
Sunday  at  sea  a young  Rarotongan  sailor,  named 
Lameke,  who  had  been  engaged  by  the  captain,  stood 
up,  at  Meariki’s  request,  to  give  out  the  hymns  and 
engage  in  prayer,  and  I could  not  but  think  that 
there  were  not  so  many  English  sailors  who  would 
have  had  the  moral  courage  to  do  this  in  the  presence 
of  “ all  hands.”  The  conclusion  to  which  I came  was, 
that  the  men  would  have  as  soon  thought  of  going 
without  their  food  as  without  their  services.’ 

In  this  connexion  also  we  may  quote  Charles  Darwin’s 
striking  testimony,  in  his  Voyage  of  the  Beagle^  to  the 
reality  of  the  religious  life  of  these  Polynesian  natives: — 
‘Before  we  laid  ourselves  down  to  sleep,  the  elder 
Tahitian  fell  on  his  knees,  and  with  closed  eyes  re- 
peated a long  prayer  in  his  native  tongue.  He  prayed 
as  a Christian  should  do,  with  fitting  reverence  and  with- 
out the  fear  of  ridicule  or  any  ostentation  of  piety. 
At  our  meals,  neither  of  the  men  would  taste  food 
without  saying  beforehand  a short  grace.  Those 
travellers  who  thinic  that  a Tahitian  prays  only  when 
the  eyes  of  the  missionary  are  fixed  on  him,  should 
have  slept  with  us  that  night  on  the  mountain  side.’ 

At  the  close  of  the  year  1872  Chalmers  drew  up,  in 


Report  for  1872  105 

his  own  peculiar  style  and  manner,  a report  of  the  state 
of  the  mission  at  that  time  : — 

‘ The  Sabbath  services  are  well  attended  by  all.  The 
Rarotongans  are  truly  a church-going  people.  Our 
services  are  short,  not  exceeding  an  hour  and  ten 
minutes,  I dislike  long  services  anywhere,  and  in  this 
climate  I find,  should  they  exceed  the  time  above  stated, 
the  interest  flags,  and  we  aU  get  drowsy, 

‘ The  mission  here  is  quite  changed  from  what  it 
was  formerly.  In  many  respects  I think  the  change 
is  for  the  better.  There  is  less  of  the  menial  crouching 
and  more  independence  of  spirit  and  action.  There  is 
a something  which  makes  the  natives  more  manly,  and 
leads  them  to  think  for  themselves,  and  to  act  according 
to  their  own  judgement.  They  now  wear  plenty  of 
clothing,  and  foreign  habits  are  taking  the  place  of 
the  native  customs,  A man  must  now  work  or  go 
unclothed,  or  nearly  so,  and  this  is  considered  altogether 
shameful  in  the  present  state  of  things, 

‘ Strong  drink  still  does  much  harm,  yet  it  is  not 
nearly  so  much  used  as  formerly.  The  traders  do  not 
sell  it  in  such  large  quantities,  and  some  of  the  chiefs 
seem  anxious  to  put  down  the  use  of  it  altogether. 
The  large  meetings  for  drinking  are  now  unknown. 
Two  or  three  drinkers  now  meet  at  a time,  but  gener- 
ally in  hidden  places.  Women  do  not  now  join  such 
assemblies.  Formerly  a large  number  of  women  met 
with  the  men  in  places  cleared  in  the  bush  for  these 
meetings,  and  the  scene  then  enacted  had  better  be 
left  in  the  dark.  In  former  days  a drinking  meeting 
on  the  Sabbath  would  frequently  number  as  many  as 
four  hundred.  These  large  meetings  are  now  entirely 
a thing  of  the  past.  All  the  young  men,  those  who 
drink  as  well  as  others,  are  now  regular  in  their 


io6  Life  on  Rarotonga 

attendance  at  church,  and  the  Bible  classes.  In  the 
days  of  the  large  drinking  meetings  the  young  men 
were  seldom  or  never  seen  in  the  settlements,  and  never 
at  church. 

‘ Three  years  ago  we  adopted  a plan  of  visitation,  by 
which  ]\Irs,  Chalmers  and  I visited  every  house  in  each 
of  the  settlements.  The  native  pastor  of  the  settlement 
with  his  wife  accompanied  us.  We  have  a double  object 
in  these  visits,  i.  To  encourage  the  natives  to  keep 
their  houses  clean  and  in  good  order.  2.  To  meet  the 
people  in  their  homes,  and  so  have  an  opportunity  of 
speaking  personally  to  all.  We  read  the  Word  of  Life, 
and  engage  in  prayer  in  each  house  before  leaving. 
We  take  the  people’s  own  Bibles,  and  thus  we  see  if 
all  are  supplied  with  the  Word  of  God.  We  were  in 
only  one  house  on  the  island  which  had  no  Bible  to 
offer  us,  while  several  had  one  for  each  member  of  the 
family.  We  have  reason  to  believe  these  annual  visits 
have  been  blessed.  The  stone  and  lime  houses  look 
cleaner  and  better,  and  the  reed  houses  are  renewed. 
The  traders  tell  us  they  have  had  large  orders  for 
timber,  doors  and  windows,  nails  and  paint  from  the 
natives  ever  since  these  visits  began.  If  they  spend 
their  money  on  their  homes  and  dress  they  will  have 
less  to  spend  on  strong  drink.  The  various  members 
of  the  households,  and  even  the  wildest  young  men, 
assemble  in  their  houses,  and  there  wait  patiently 
until  we  come.  We  are  cordially  received  by  all.  To 
us  it  is  a great  pleasure  to  feel  that  there  is  no  home 
on  the  island  where  we  have  not  preached  Christ,  and 
that  there  is  no  one  who  has  not  heard  of  salvation 
through  Him,  that  prayer  has  been  offered  to  the 
Hearer  and  Answerer  thereof  in  every  inhabited  house.’ 

Two  years  later  Chalmers  carries  war  into  the 


Evils  of  Drink 


107 


country  of  those  who  criticized  adversely  the  methods 
of  the  mission  while  their  own  conduct  was  open  to 
very  serious  reproach. 

‘ Many  people  seem  to  think  there  can  be  no  harm 
in  orange  beer,  and  that  the  natives  might  be  allowed 
to  drink  it.  I read  lately  in  a newspaper  that  the 
attempt  to  put  it  down  was  only  a puritanical  whim 
of  the  missionary's.  If  these  flying  visitors  had  seen 
one  half  of  what  I have  seen  of  the  evils  arising  from 
so-called  harmless  orange  beer,  they  would  soon  bless 
the  missionary  and  sober  chiefs  for  trying  to  stop  its 
use,  unless  they  be  visitors  who  delight  in  hellish  scenes 
and  think  wife-beating  a pleasant  pastime.  I have  seen 
the  natives  in  the  bush  in  large  and  small  companies 
in  all  stages  of  intoxication.  I have  seen  them  in  the 
thirsty  stage,  the  talkative  stage,  the  singing  stage, 
the  loud  talking,  quarrelling  stage,  the  native  fighting 
stage,  and  the  dead  drunk  stage.  I have  seen  them 
fighting  among  themselves,  I have  seen  them  after 
returning  to  their  homes  beating,  kicking,  and  cutting 
their  wives,  and  pitching  their  children  out  of  doors. 
I have  known  them  to  set  their  houses  on  fire,  or  to 
tear  up  every  stitch  of  clothing  belonging  to  their  wives 
and  children.  I have  heard  cursing  and  swearing  in 
English  (a  native  when  drunk  talks  and  swears  in 
English  more  than  in  native)  in  a manner  that  would 
make  the  hardened  English  swearer  blush.  God  forbid 
that  such  days  should  ever  again  be  known  on  Raro- 
tonga ! I have  attended  many  young  men  whose 
strength  had  gone  from  the  free  use  of  “ harmless 
orange  beer,”  and  have  buried  not  a few  whose  death 
was  caused  by  this  drink.  Visitors  who  stay  only  a few 
days  ashore  should  be  careful  about  reporting  intelli- 
gence received  from  beach-combers.  These  men  are  the 


io8  Life  on  Rarotonga 

lowest  of  the  low,  loving-  evil  and  hating  the  missionary 
because  he  tries  to  teach  the  natives  truth,  sobriety,  and 
righteousness. 

‘ ^\'’e  have  foreign  drink  here  too ; gin  and  rum  of 
the  worst  possible  quality  are  brought  here  by  men  who 
would  sell  their  own  souls  to  make  a few  dollars,  and 
who  from  early  morning  until  late  at  night  are  more  or 
less  under  the  influence  of  these  drinks.  The  British 
Government  has  put  down  kidnapping  in  the  South 
Pacific,  but  this  was  harmless  as  compared  with  this 
traffic  in  spirits.  However,  we  have  much  less  of  this 
evil  than  formerly.  These  miserable  traders  are  from 
Tahiti.  Of  late  years  traders  of  a very  different  stamp 
from  Auckland  have  taken  up  the  trade  of  the  island. 
These  bring  IManchester  and  Sheffield  goods,  excellent 
in  quality  and  abundant  in  quantity,  as  well  as  provisions 
and  whatever  other  things  may  be  desired  by  the 
natives.  These  find  it  to  be  to  their  interest  to  oppose 
the  liquor  traffic.  As  these  new  traders  succeed,  the 
Tahitian  traders  are  retiring  from  the  field,  and  we 
hope  soon  to  be  entirely  rid  of  them.  We  thank  God 
for  the  success  of  the  past,  and  work  on  hopefully, 
expecting  yet  greater  success  for  the  future.  As  men 
we  missionaries  must  stand  up  for  the  good  of  the 
native  race,  and  laugh  at  the  attacks  of  the  so-called 
friends. 

‘ Somehow  or  other  there  are  very  few  young  Eng- 
lishmen whose  moral  character  is  strong  enough  in  this 
sunny  clime  to  withstand  the  immoral  influences  of  these 
so- called  weak  natives.  The  immoralities  of  weakness 
seem  stronger  than  the  morality  of  strength.  Is  it  that 
the  morahty  of  England  is  merely  superficial,  so  that 
when  away  from  all  restraint,  and  the  glass  house  has 
been  left  behind,  the  repressed  inclinations  spring  forth  ? 


Degraded  Europeans  109 

Such  men  lack  the  higher  Gospel  morality  springing 
from  within  out  to  the  life,  and  so  are  soon  caught  by 
this  poor  weak  race.  These  are  the  men  who  are  ever 
talking,  and  some  even  daring,  to  write  of  the  immo- 
ralities of  the  native  race,  and  that  the  missionaries  do 
not  know  the  character  of  the  natives  as  they  do,  and 
so  forth.  I sometimes  think  they  talk  and  write  of 
the  degraded  immoral  race  as  a salve  to  their  own 
consciences,  to  show  that  others  are  as  bad  as  they  are 
themselves.  I dare  to  say  that  I know  of  Englishmen  " 
far  more  degraded  than  the  most  degraded  of  natives. 
There  are  Englishmen,  Europeans  and  Americans,  on 
these  islands  who  make  the  most  degraded  natives 
blush  for  very  shame. 

‘Well,  we  blush  for  our  countrymen,  and  try  to  do 
what  we  can  to  make  them  different.  We  know  the 
Gospel  of  Christ,  when  applied  by  the  Spirit  of  God  to 
the  heart,  can  change  the  most  depraved ; so  we  wait 
anxiously  for  the  Almighty  Power.  A change  for  the 
better  has  come  over  our  foreign  population  here,  and 
I am  safe  in  saying  that  we  now  have  a more  respectable 
class  of  foreigners  than  any  other  island  in  the  South 
Pacific  where  foreigners  reside  ashore  can  show.’ 

Chalmers  by  this  time  (1874)  had  formed  the  opinion, 
from  which  he  never  afterwards  swerved,  that  in  the 
older  Polynesian  mission  fields  the  natives  should  be 
encouraged  to  rely  more  upon  their  own  efforts,  and  to 
take  a more  active  part  in  the  conduct  of  church  life 
and  affairs. 

‘ I think  it  is  time  these  churches  were  left  to  their 
own  resources,  under  the  superintendence  of  one  foreign 
missionary,  who  could  take  charge  of  the  Institution. 
So  long  as  the  native  churches  have  foreign  pastors  so 
long  will  they  remain  weak  and  dependent.  Why 


110  Life  on  Rarotonga 

should  not  one  white  missionary  do  in  the  Her\'ey 
group  ? ^ B)'  living  at  Rarotonga  he  could  always  hear 
of  what  is  passing  at  the  other  islands,  and  in  a case 
of  urgency  could  soon  get  a chance  in  one  of  the  trading 
vessels  to  visit  any  one  of  the  islands.  We  have  been 
nearly  eight  years  on  Rarotonga.  During  that  time 
I have  visited  all  the  islands  of  this  mission  at  various 
times,  and  am  compelled  to  admit  that  the  out-stations 
under  the  charge  of  the  native  pastors  contrast  ver)’- 
favourably  with  the  stations  under  the  care  of  European 
missionaries.  Surely  the  Society  should  stretch  forth 
into  new  and  larger  fields,  not  with  one  or  two  new 
missionaries,  but  with  larger  numbers.  The  age  of 
rush  and  advance  requires  advance  in  missionary'  effort. 
The  many  islands  yet  in  heathen  darkness  which  have 
not  heard  of  our  glorious  Redeemer  should  soon  hear 
of  Him.  \Wiy  not  try'  to  reduce  the  staflf  of  missionaries 
on  old  fields,  leave  the  churches  there  to  bud  forth,  and 
to  think  and  act  for  themselves,  and  the  Society'  take 
up  new  fields  of  labour  ? I fail  to  see  why  some  new 
field  should  not  be  taken  up  every'  y'ear,  neither  can 
I see  why'  these  churches  in  the  Hervey'  group  require 
foreign  pastors.  \^'’ell-trained  native  pastors  under  the 
supers'ision  of  one  foreign  missionary  ought  to  do  the 
work.  Such  men  wiU  keep  the  natives  together  better 
than  any  foreigner  can.  Again  I assert  that  there  is 
no  mission  in  the  South  Pacific  under  the  control  of 
a white  missionary  which  surpasses  the  stations  that 
are  under  native  pastors  superintended  by  a European 
missionary.’ 

In  confirmation  of  these  somewhat  strong  general 
statements  we  may  adduce  some  examples  of  these 

^ At  this  time  the  Society  was  maintaining  three  European 
missionaries  in  the  group. 


Native  Teachers 


ill 


native  pastors  and  teachers,  and  some  illustrations  of  the 
work  which  they  accomplished.  Chalmers  delighted  to 
number  among  his  dearest  friends  many  of  these  humble 
fellow  workers.  They  were  generally  of  limited  intel- 
lectual capacity,  although  some  of  them  displayed 
considerable  mental  power.  They  were  necessarily 
men  and  women  of  small  experience  and  contracted 
horizon.  They  were  only  one  or  at  the  most  but 
two  generations  removed  from  cannibalism,  many  loath- 
some heathen  customs,  and  from  the  wildest  licentious- 
ness. But  the  Gospel  had  enlightened  them ; the  love 
of  God  made  known  to  them  in  Jesus  Christ  had 
sanctified  and  purified  their  hearts.  They  were  in  the 
main  men  and  women  of  only  one  book,  but  that  book 
was  the  Word  of  God  whose  entrance  giveth  light  to  the 
simple.  And  they  not  only  themselves  rejoiced  in  this 
new  life  and  light,  made  known  to  them  in  and  through 
Jesus  Christ,  but  they  also  gladly  met  exile^  sickness, 
privation,  even  death  itself  in  their  determination  to 
carry  the  glad  tidings  which  had  so  richly  blessed  their 
own  hearts  to  those  dark  places  of  Polynesia  which 
were  still  the  habitations  of  cruelty.  There  is  no  nobler 
chapter  in  the  church  history  of  the  nineteenth  century 
than  that  which  depicts  the  devotion  and  self-sacrifice 
of  the  Christian  natives  of  Polynesia.  Here  is  one 
of  many  testimonies  afforded  by  the  correspondence  of 
Chalmers  to  the  type  of  Christian  life,  exhibited  in  the 
lives  or  developed  by  the  labours  of  the  Rarotongan 
native  teachers  and  pastors : — 

‘ We  have  had  a good  deal  of  sickness  during  the 
last  few  months,  and  a number  of  deaths.  One  young 
girl  about  fourteen  was  very  ill  when  the  epidemic  came 
to  the  island.  She  was  soon  seized  with  it,  and  became 
very  ill  indeed.  She  lingered  on  for  some  time,  and  it 


112 


Life  on  Rarotonga 

was  hoped  would  have  got  over  it,  but  this  was  not  to 
be.  She  was  a quiet  girl,  ver}^  obedient  to  her  parents, 
and  never  absent  from  school  or  church.  "When  she 
knew  she  was  dying  she  told  her  friends  that  they  were 
not  to  be  sorr}'  for  her,  or  anxious  about  her,  as  she 
knew  Jesus  was  with  her,  and  she  was  only  going  to  be 
with  Him.  I believe  during  all  her  sickness  she  was  never 
heard  to  complain.  She  looked  happy.  I saw  her  the 
day  before  her  death,  just  two  or  three  da}’s  after  my 
return  from  the  Northern  Islands.  She  was  then  very 
weak,  and  not  able  to  speak  much.  I read  to  her  a few 
verses  from  the  Bible,  and  when  speaking  to  her  of  the 
love  of  Jesus  she  smiled  and  looked  as  if  entirely  happy 
in  that  love.  She  seemed  much  pleased  with  the  few 
verses  read  from  the  Second  Corinthians,  the  fifth 
chapter.  We  engaged  in  prayer  with  her,  and  then 
bade  her  good-bye. 

‘ The  following  day  at  sunset  her  soul  bade  farewell 
to  its  earthly  tabernacle,  and  entered  into  the  presence 
of  her  Lord  and  Master.  I met  one  of  the  deacons  two 
days  after  her  death,  who  told  me  that  he  had  frequently 
visited  her,  and  the  last  time  he  was  there  he  asked  her, 
“My  child,  do  you  hold  firmly  on  to  Christ?”  She 
answered,  “He  holds  me,  I cling  to  Him.”  “Are  j’ou 
afraid?”  “No;  the  rope  is  strong,  I shall  see  Him,  I love 
Him.”  The  old  deacon  wept  while  he  told  me  of  that 
visit.  So  Vainemuri  is  now  with  Jesus. 

‘ Titi  is  an  old  man  in  the  village,  verj"  ill.  He  says 
he  is  going  home,  and  will  soon  be  there.  Mrs.  Chal- 
mers and  I called  on  him  lately.  He  said,  “ I am  glad 
to  see  you,  as  I wanted  3'ou  to  know  that  it  is  all  right 
with  me.  Jesus  has  a good  hold  of  me,  and  I have  a 
good  hold  of  Jesus.  ^M>'  missionarjq  I am  going  soon, 
but  do  not  feel  troubled  because  of  me.  The  ship  is 


Maretu^s  Wife 


113 


anchored  on  Christ,  and  it  cannot  be  broken  on  the  reef. 
You  know  Christ  is  everything-  to  me.”  To  us  it  is 
cheering  to  meet  these  who  were  born  in  heathenism, 
who  have  received  the  truth  of  Christ,  and  are  now, 
when  nearing  the  grave,  joyful  in  the  anticipation  of 
meeting  Christ,  Glorious  love  thus  to  bless  man ! 

‘ Our  old  pastor,  Maretu,  has  lost  his  wife,  after 
a union  of  at  least  fifty-two  years.  For  fifty  years 
she  was  connected  with  the  mission,  and  for  forty  years 
was  a church  member.  For  thirty-nine  years  she  was 
a good  earnest  worker  for  Christ  on  Mangaia,  Manihiki, 
and  Rarotonga.  No  one  could  ever  accuse  her  of 
wrong.  All  loved  her  and  spoke  of  her  as  an  example 
to  be  followed  in  things  good  and  holy.  During  her 
illness  she  remained  happy  in  Christ,  and  her  last  words 
were,  “ I should  like  to  have  seen  my  friends  at  Aro- 
rangi;  but  it  doesn’t  matter,  I am  now  going  home.” 
She  lived  for  Christ,  and  she  died  victorious  through  Him, 

‘Maretu  would  not  allow  any  of  the  native  wailing 
over  her  body.  He  made  the  friends,  who  according 
to  custom  sat  round  the  body  from  the  afternoon  of  her 
death  till  the  time  for  burial  the  next  day,  pray  and  sing 
hymns.  He  spent  the  greater  part  of  the  night  in 
a room  alone  in  prayer.  He  would  not  allow  black 
to  be  worn  as  mourning  for  her,  remarking,  “ My  one 
half  has  gone  to  heaven  to  be  with  Jesus,  where  I will 
soon  follow  her.  Dress  in  white."  We  sent  a present 
of  dark  cloth  to  him  on  Thursday  (the  day  of  the 
funeral),  but  as  he  appeared  at  the  Friday  morning 
prayer-meeting  dressed  in  white  we  sent  him  another 
of  white.  On  Sabbath  we,  in  company  with  all  on 
the  island,  men,  women,  and  children,  dressed  in  white, 
as  a mark  of  respect  for  and  sympathy  with  the  good 
old  man. 


H 


114 


Life  on  Rarotonga 

‘ I question  if  there  be  another  couple  in  the  South 
Pacific  to  approach  in  holy  living  what  Maretu  and  his 
wife  were.  !NIaretu  is  now  old,  but  his  heart  is  ever 
fresh.  Now  that  his  wife  has  gone  on  he  looks  more 
wistfully  beyond,  and  hopes  soon  to  meet  Jesus,  his  wife, 
Barakoti  (Buzacott),  and  the  many  Rarotongans  who 
have  gone  on  beyond  the  river  ; and  he  adds,  with 
a smile,  “ !My  beloved  Pitimani  (Pitman)  will  soon  join 
us  all  there.”  ’ 

In  the  spring  of  1876  a native  pastor  named  Teava 
died.  In  his  work  among  the  heathen  Teava  had  proved 
himself  apt  to  teach,  and  as  the  result  of  his  labours 
whole  tribes  abandoned  idolatry  and  expressed  their 
readiness  to  place  themselves  under  Christian  instruction. 
He  was  the  first  Christian  evanofelist  sent  to  Samoa,  and 
on  Manono  and  in  the  Samoan  Islands  he  spent  more 
than  twenty  years.  ‘ With  his  life  in  his  hand,’  writes 
Mr.  Buzacott,  ‘ he  travelled  in  an  open  canoe  from  island 
to  island  strmng  to  remove  the  prejudices  of  the  people, 
and  to  prepare  the  natives  to  receive  European  mission- 
aries.’ He  subsequentiy  returned  to  his  native  island 
of  Rarotonga,  where  he  spent  the  evening  of  his  days. 

Of  this  man  Chalmers  bears  this  testimony : — 

‘ During  the  last  nine  years  I have  seen  much  of 
Teava,  and  learned  to  admire  the  man.  He  lived  much 
in  prayer,  and  in  the  study  of  God’s  Word.  At  prayer- 
meetings  he  was  always  first  there,  coming  at  least  half 
an  hour  before  any  one  else,  so  that  he  might  have  time 
to  pray  and  receive  a blessing  for  himself  and  others 
before  the  sendee  began.  He  was  never  absent  from 
the  deacons’  Saturday  afternoon  prayer-meeting.  He 
was  always  ready  to  speak  to  the  church,  ever  pointing 
the  members  to  Christ,  and  warning  them  against  the 
many  evils  to  which  they  are  exposed.  From  his  long. 


Teava 


115 

true,  and  earnest  life  he  was  able  to  speak  to  them  as 
only  very  few  could.  He  spoke  very  plainly,  not  at  all 
mincing  matters  when  occasion  required.  He  had  great 
regard  for  the  Pilgrim's  Progress^  and  his  delight  was 
to  have  me  sit  with  him  and  go  over  a part  of  Christian’s 
journey  to  Mount  Zion,  the  heavenly  Jerusalem. 

‘ From  his  position  in  the  island  he  was  able  to  speak 
faithfully  to  the  chiefs.  He  rejoiced  greatly  in  the  good 
the  present  Makea  has  been  the  means  of  doing.  For 
five  weeks  before  his  death  he  was  unable  to  attend  the 
services  in  church,  but  he  welcomed  any  who  could 
spend  a short  time  with  him  in  prayer  in  his  own  house. 
He  told  me  some  days  before  he  died  that  he  was  just 
waiting  on  ; he  knew  the  Master  had  sent  for  him.  He 
said  he  was  done  with  all  below,  and  looked  only  for 
Christ’s  presence.  Not  in  what  he  had  done  did  he 
trust,  but  in  the  Cross  of  Christ  alone.  On  March  16 
he  asked  for  a little  food.  It  was  given  him,  but  he 
could  not  eat  it;  he  got  up  and  walked  a very  short 
distance  in  the  house,  when  he  said,  “ I think  the 
messenger  has  come  to  fetch  me ; I shall  die.”  His 
wife  and  another  woman  laid  him  down  on  his  mat, 
when  he  quietly  passed  away. 

‘ What  a change ! In  his  youth  he  was  a heathen, 
had  fought  with,  and  had  captured  men  and  cooked  and 
helped  to  eat  them.  In  his  manhood  he  was  converted 
to  Christ,  became  a true  soldier  of  the  Cross,  and  led 
many  to  the  Saviour.  In  his  death  he  trusted  alone  to 
Christ,  conquered  death  in  Christ,  and  went  up  to  hear 
Him  say,  “ Well  done,  good  and  faithful  servant,  enter 
thou  into  the  joy  of  thy  Lord.”  ’ 

We  take  up  once  again  the  autobiography  for  the 
closing  years  of  Chalmers’  life  on  Rarotonga  : — 

‘ Before  1877  three  bands  of  teachers  were  sent  to  New 


ii6  Life  on  Rarotonga 

Guinea,  who  were  cared  for  by  our  old  friend  W.  G. 
Lawes  of  Niue.  All  suffered  terribly  from  fever,  many 
died,  a few  returned  home,  and  only  a very  few  were 
left  at  work  in  the  great  island.  Dr.  Mullens  was  then 
Foreign  Secretary  in  London,  and  I had  several  notes 
from  him,  saying  that  we  were  to  hold  ourselves  in 
readiness  to  go  to  New  Guinea. 

‘ At  length  it  was  arranged  that  Wyatt  Gill  should 
take  charge  of  Rarotonga,  and  so  relieve  us  to  visit  New 
Guinea  on  our  way  home  to  Britain.  The  Directors 
had  expressed  a wish  to  see  us  before  settling  down  to 
our  new  work.  The  Rarotongans  did  not  appreciate 
our  leaving  Avarua,  and  hoping  to  detain  us  they 
repaired  the  church,  expending  in  money  between 
£600  and  £700,  besides  labour  and  food.  At  the  end 
of  1876  the  church  was  finished,  and  ready  to  be  opened 
on  January  i,  1877.  I called  a special  meeting  of 
deacons  to  make  the  needful  arrangements.  There  was 
still  a sum  of  £25  owing,  for  wood  which  had  been 
obtained  from  one  of  the  merchants.  But  I felt  sure 
the  collections  on  the  opening  day  would  cover  that 
debt^  and  that  there  would  be  a good  balance  in  hand. 
The  deacons  met,  and  I told  them  what  I thought  should 
be  done.  They  listened  without  remark  until  I had 
finished,  when  the  good  old  deacon  doorkeeper  asked, 
“ How  are  you  going  to  get  in  } ” “ Why,  by  the  door, 

of  course.”  “ No,  you  will  not.  I have  the  keys,  and 
will  not  open  a door  until  every  cent  is  paid.  Of 
course  you  may  try  the  windows.”  I was  somewhat 
taken  aback,  but  replied,  “ It  is  very  little,  and  the  early 
morning  collection  on  the  opening  day  will  clear  it  off.” 
“ No,  no  door  will  be  opened  unless  the  debt  is  paid.” 
Feeling  that  the  deacon’s  view  was  sound,  I acquiesced, 
and  we  closed  our  meeting  with  prayer.  About  an 


117 


How  to  pay  Debts 


hour  after  there  was  a great  commotion  in  the  village, 
drums  beating  and  people  shouting,  and  on  inquiry 
I found  they  had  already  begun  to  collect  the  money 
to  pay  off  the  debt.  That  afternoon  all  was  paid,  and 
in  addition  there  was  a good  substantial  balance  in 
hand.  The  opening  day  was  a great  success,  and  there 
were  good  collections,  sufficient  to  pay  their  pastor’s 
salary,  and  to  leave  a balance  with  which  to  carry  on 
the  work. 

‘ It  was  a long  puU  to  get  the  natives  to  become 
willing  to  pay  their  own  pastors.  The  native  pastors 
themselves  opposed  the  plan  most,  since  they  did  not 
like  becoming  dependent  upon  the  church.  Some  of 
our  missionary  brethren  also  thought  that  by  this 
action  we  should  lose  our  hold  upon  the  churches  and 
the  people.  But  the  churches  on  this  point  agreed 
with  me,  and  a few  years  before  I left  the  island  this 
reform  was  carried  out  and  has  since  worked  well.  Of 
course  subscriptions  to  the  London  Missionary  Society 
declined,  but  that  was  to  be  expected,  and  had  been 
used  as  an  argument  against  the  change.  The  native 
pastors  henceforward  did  all  a pastor’s  work ; they 
married,  baptized,  received  candidates,  and  excommuni- 
cated lapsed  members,  subject  to  the  vote  of  the  church  ; 
and  at  our  quarterly  meeting  a full  report  of  the  actions 
of  the  pastors  was  made  to  me.  I visited  each  station 
once  a month,  and  preached,  and  frequently  rode  round 
the  island,  visiting  each  pastor,  and  learning  what  was 
going  on. 

‘When  we  left  home  in  1866, 1 fully  intended  never 
to  return,  but  when  in  1876  the  Directors  invited  me 
to  come  home,  calling  at  New  Guinea  on  my  way, 
I decided  to  go,  and  so  see  my  dear  old  mother,  who 
was  hoping  also  to  see  me  once  again.  But  it  was 


ii8 


Life  on  Rarotonga 

othenvise  ordered  b}'  Divine  Providence.  In  December, 
1876,  we  received  news  of  her  death,  and  our  going 
home  in  consequence  became  verj'  uncertain. 

‘In  1876  Mr.  Royle  retired  to  Sydney.  For  nearly 
forty  years  he  and  his  good  wife  had  laboured  on 
Aitutaki,  and  only  once  during  all  that  time  had  he 
been  away  from  the  island.  I fancy  the  missionaries 
of  the  past  thought  more  of  their  work  than  the 
missionaries  of  the  present  day.  The  latter  seem  to 
come  out  for  ten  years,  even  if  they  can  stand  the 
work  so  long,  and  the  years  and  the  months  are 
counted,  and  often  the  furlough  time  is  longed  for. 
In  1863,  !Mr.  Rojde  was  induced  to  leave  Aitutaki  and 
pay  Sydney  a visit.  On  the  way  the  John  M^'iHiams 
was  wrecked  on  Danger  Island  (Pukapuka),  and  Mr. 
Roj'le  always  afterwards  spoke  of  this  as  a punish- 
ment that  befell  him  for  daring  to  leave  his  work ! 
When  the  vessel  was  nearl)-  on  the  reef,  and  all  had 
taken  to  the  boats,  Mr.  Ro}-le  was  seen  seated  calmly 
on  a chair  on  the  poop.  The  mate,  Mr.  Turpie,  who 
was  just  getting  over  the  side  of  the  vessel,  being  the 
last  to  leave,  noticing  him,  said,  “ JNIr.  Royle,  why  are 
not  you  in  one  of  the  boats  ? ” “I  must  wait  orders.” 
“ Well,  be  quick  and  get  out  of  her.”  I know  of  only 
one  other  missionary^  who  stay^ed  so  long  at  work 
without  change,  and  he  laboured  for  forty*  years  with- 
out a break.  That  was  the  late  Rabbi  Pratt  of  Samoa. 
He  knew  the  native  language  much  better  than  any^ 
native,  and  was  more  conversant  with  the  past  of  the 
Samoans  than  any  single  Samoan. 

‘In  April,  1877,  Mr.  and  Airs.  Wyatt  GUI  arrived 
to  take  charge  of  Rarotonga,  and  on  May  21  we  left 
it  The  parting  with  our  beloved  Rarotongans  was 
a very  great  trial,  but  we  were  nerved  with  the  thought 


Appointed  to  New  Guinea  119 

that  we  were  going  to  work  side  by  side  with  their 
children,  the  teachers  sent  out  by  us  in  past  years. 
The  people  too  felt  that  though  far  apart  we  should 
still  be  one  in  spirit  and  in  heart.’ 

Here,  as  throughout  the  autobiography,  we  wish 
the  writer  had  gone  more  into  detail.  As  he  has  not 
done  so,  we  must  have  recourse  to  other  sources  of 
information.  Very  soon  after  the  Directors  had  de- 
finitely decided  to  take  up  the  New  Guinea  Mission, 
Chalmers  began  to  hope  that  his  future  field  of  labour 
would  be  that  island,  and  no  enterprise  could  have 
been  more  after  his  own  heart  than  to  go  thither  as 
a messenger  of  the  Gospel.  Everything  that  rendered 
New  Guinea  repulsive  to  an  ordinary  mortal  heightened 
its  attractive  power  over  him.  On  November  22,  1875, 
he  wrote : — 

‘ In  each  of  the  settlements  there  is  visibly  a greater 
interest  in  things  belonging  to  the  eternal  good  of  man. 
"We  have  just  appointed  six  men  with  their  wives  to 
be  ready  for  Papua  by  next  visit  of  ship.  They  go 
willingly,  yea  more,  they  greatly  desire  it.  Quite 
a number  of  those  who  have  gone  are  dead,  yet  the 
desire  decreases  not  in  these  who  are  now  with  us. 
How  I should  rejoice  to  accompany  them,  and  stand 
in  the  centre  of  Papua,  and  tell  of  infinite  love ! The 
nearer  I get  to  Christ  and  His  cross,  the  more  do 
I long  for  direct  contact  with  the  heathen.  The  one 
wish  is  to  be  entirely  spent  for  Christ,  working,  con- 
sumed in  His  love.’ 

In  May,  1876,  he  continues: — 

‘ We  shall  be  ready  to  move  on  to  Papua  next  year. 
I feel  happy  in  the  prospect  of  being  engaged  in 
teaching  the  heathen  of  Christ,  and  I believe  Mrs. 
Chalmers  will  be  so  also.  We  have  sent  eight  students 


120 


Life  on  Rarotonga 

and  tieir  wives  to  Papua  this  3*ear.  God  grant  that 
their  lives  may  be  spared  to  do  good  in  Christ’s  name ! 
^Ve  are  both  happy  in  the  prospect  of  being  engaged 
in  the  work  of  Christ  among  the  heathen.’ 

At  the  same  time  Chalmers  wrote  to  the  Directors, 
in  reph'  to  their  request  that  he  should  visit  England, 
expressing  his  reluctance  to  return  home  ‘ so  soon.’ 
He  had  been  in  the  mission  field  nearly  ten  years,  but 
to  his  zeal  and  enthusiasm,  while  he  continued  well  and 
strong,  there  seemed  no  reason  why  a long  furlough 
home  should  be  taken.  And  as  events  turned  out  he  did 
not  see  the  shores  of  England  for  another  eleven  years. 
His  remarks  with  regard  to  Mr.  Royle  and  !Mr.  Pratt 
are  not  without  point,  in  reference  to  the  missionary’  life 
and  practice  of  to-day.  The  conditions  of  travelling 
and  of  hfe  generally  now  are  widely  different  from  those 
which  obtained  in  the  earlier  half  of  the  nineteenth 
century.  In  those  days  the  bulk  of  missionaries  iden- 
tified themselves  much  more  closely  with  the  place  and 
people  of  their  work  than  many  of  them  do  to-day. 
A man  like  Benjamin  Rice  could  spend  over  fifty  years 
of  service  in  India,  and  yet  revisit  England  only*  once. 
And  while  there  are  splendid  exceptions,  like  Dr.  Griffith 
John,  of  Hankow,  whose  last  visit  home  was  in  i88i,  the 
custom  now  is  shorter  spells  of  service,  and  much  more 
frequent  visits  home.  This  is  recognized  and  allowed 
for  in  the  regulations  of  the  different  societies.  It  is, 
perhaps,  inevitable ; but  there  is  room  for  grave  doubt 
whether  it  does  not  too  often  affect  the  work  adversely. 
Xo  one  can  have  much  experience  of  committee  work  in 
connexion  with  our  great  societies  without  feeling  that 
the  furlough  system  tends  at  times  to  develop  human 
weaknesses.  The  facilities  for  return  home  are  so 
great  that  the  temptations  to  leave  work  on  account 


Farewells 


121 


of  ill-health  and  other  causes  are  greatly  increased ; and 
there  is  far  more  ground  in  some  quarters  than  is 
desirable  for  the  fear  which  Chalmers  expresses — that 
the  missionaries  of  the  past  gave  themselves  more  wholly 
to  their  work  than  some  missionaries  of  to-day. 

Towards  the  close  of  1876  it  was  decided  by  the 
Directors  that  Chalmers  should  remove  to  New  Guinea. 
On  May  10,  1877,  a committee  meeting  of  the  European 
missionaries  of  the  Hervey  Islands  was  held  at  Avarua. 
There  were  present  W.  Wyatt  Gill,  G.  A.  Harris,  and 
James  Chalmers.  At  this  meeting  the  following  minute 
was  passed,  which  closed  Chalmers’  official  connexion 
with  the  mission  : — 

‘ We  most  deeply  regret  the  departure  of  our  dear 
friends  and  fellow  labourers  the  Rev.  J.  and  Mrs. 
Chalmers  from  this  mission,  in  which  they  have  laboured 
with  such  remarkable  diligence  and  success  for  a period 
of  ten  years.  We  take  this  comfort,  that  in  New 
Guinea  they  will  doubtless  be  able  to  succour  the 
Rarotongan  teachers  in  their  sorrow  and  suffering,  and 
will,  we  trust,  be  enabled  to  open  up  a successful  mission 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  China  Straits.  We  shall  follow 
them  with  our  prayers  and  sympathies,  and  hope  that 
their  lives  may  long  be  preserved.’ 

Mr.  and  Mrs,  Chalmers  sailed  from  Rarotonga  to 
New  Zealand  on  May  21,  1877.  The  parting  was 
keenly  felt  by  both  missionaries  and  natives.  During 
the  ten  years  many  abiding  ties  of  friendship  and  affec- 
tion had  been  formed.  But  these  years  of  vigorous  and 
faithful  service  had  been  a fitting  apprenticeship  for  the 
harder  tasks  now  to  be  taken  in  hand. 


CHAPTER  V 


AMONG  THE  CANNIBALS  AT  SUAU 

New  Guinea,  at  the  time  when  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers 
took  up  mission  work  there,  was  an  unknown  land, 
full  of  terrors,  savagen,",  and  human  degradation.  The 
Rev.  W._G,  Lawea»  who  had  passed  between  three  and 
four  years  of  hard  and  discouraging  labour  in  the 
district  of  Port  Moresby,  gave  in  1878  the  following 
description  of  the  land  which  Chalmers  was  to  know 
and  to  love  so  well : — 

‘ New  Guinea  is  the  largest  island  in  the  world.  It 
has  been  known  by  name  for  about  three  centuries,  but 
so  little  has  really  been  known  about  it,  except  the 
extreme  north-west  end,  that  it  has  been  practically  an 
unknown  country,  and  writers  have  found  in  it  a field 
for  the  exercise  of  a most  exuberant  tropical  imagination. 
A sort  of  glamour  has  rested  over  this  island  with  the 
golden  name.  It  was  supposed  to  be  a country  flowing 
with  milk  and  honey.  Spice  groves  were  said  to  lade 
the  air  with  their  sweet  perfume ; gold  and  precious 
stones  abundant,  while  valuable  woods  were  so  plentiful 
that  although  it  was  extremely  probable  any  visitor  to 
its  shores  might  be  clubbed,  his  friends  would  have  the 
satisfaction  of  knowing  that  the  deed  was  done  with 
the  best  ebony. 

‘Notwithstanding  this  character  for  commercial  wealth, 
although  separated  from  Australia  only  by  Torres 
Straits — and  our  friends  in  Australia  are  by  no  means 


123 


Savage  Life  in  New  Guinea 

wanting  in  the  spirit  of  adventure — yet  the  uncertain 
navigation  and  the  ferocious  character  of  its  inhabitants 
were  such  that,  until  it  was  opened  up  by  our  mission 
only  five  years  ago,  the  south-east  part  of  New  Guinea 
tvas  almost  an  unknown  and  unexplored  country.  In 
an  island  1,400  miles  long,  with  an  area  about  three 
times  that  of  Great  Britain,  there  is  great  diversity  of 
climate,  of  product,  and  of  race,  and  it  is  always 
important  when  a statement  in  reference  to  New  Guinea 
is  made,  to  know  to  which  part  of  this  great  island  the 
statement  refers. 

‘ Every  village  lives  in  suspicion  of  its  neighbours, 
and  at  enmity  with  them,  so  that  they  are  practically  as 
isolated  and  separated  as  if  they  were  living  on  some 
lone  island  in  mid-ocean.  The  natives  of  the  south- 
eastern coast  are  a light-coloured  race,  belonging  to 
the  Malayo-Polynesian  family,  of  which  the  Maories  of 
New  Zealand,  the  Tahitians,  and  Samoans  are  the  best- 
known  representatives.  Physically  they  are  a fine  race ; 
but,  whatever  good  looks  they  possess,  they  certainly 
owe  neither  to  the  tailor  nor  the  dressmaker.  There 
is  the  usual  profusion  of  barbaric  ornaments  in  the  shape 
of  nose-sticks,  earrings,  necklaces,  feathers,  tattooing, 
and  paint.  Whether  they  are  more  successful  than 
others  in  their  attempt  to  improve  on  Nature  is,  after 
all,  a matter  of  opinion  and  a question  of  taste. 

‘ They  live  in  lake  dwellings,  such  as  those  of  which 
relics  are  to  be  found  in  different  parts  of  Europe. 
Some  of  the  villages  are  always  surrounded  by  water, 
so  that  the  mission  steamer  can  anchor  in  the  main 
street  with  safety  at  any  time.  The  stone  age  still 
prevails.  No  implement,  utensil,  or  weapon  is  to  be 
found  made  of  iron  or  any  metal ; but  after  visiting 
the  canoe-making  yards  at  Hood  Bay,  and  seeing  the 


124  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

can’ing  from  Orangerie  Bay,  the  obsen’er  will  have  a 
much  greater  respect  for  the  stone  age  than  ever  before. 
The  fine  houses  testify  to  the  excellence  of  their  tools, 
as  well  as  to  the  industry,  perseverance,  and  skill  of 
their  builders.  Their  houses,  however,  are  utterly  devoid 
of  furniture.  They  can  dispense  easily  with  chairs,  and 
ever}-  man  sleeps  on  a plank  bed  without  a pillow. 

‘ So  primitive  are  they  in  their  habits  that  neither  the 
use  of  money  is  known,  nor  its  want  felt.  They  are 
supremely  indifferent  to  the  state  of  the  money  market. 
There  is  a wonderful  absence  of  that  abject  squalor  and 
wretchedness  only  too  familiar  to  dwellers  in  the  large 
towns  and  cities  of  civilized  life.  A man  without  a 
penny  to  his  name,  a coat  to  his  back,  or  a bed  to  lie 
on  enjoys  life  fairly  well  in  Xew  Guinea.  He  has  no 
morning  newspaper  to  distirrb  his  peace  of  mind.  He 
has  no  pile  of  letters  to  answer,  no  telegraph  boy  to 
alarm  him.  But  there  are  some  dark  features  which 
detract  from  the  inviting  character  of  this  picture.  There 
are  some  uncomfortable  habits  and  vices.  Cannibalism 
in  all  its  hideousness  flourishes  on  many  parts  of  the 
coast.  At  Port  Moresby  cannibalism  is  not  practised, 
but  the  sanctity  of  human  life  is  unknown,  and  every 
man  is  a thief  and  a liar.  The  thing  of  which  the  men 
are  the  most  proud  is  the  tattooing  marks,  which  mean 
that  the  man  who  is  tattooed  has  shed  human  blood. 
He  has  no  right  to  this  distinction  until  he  has  murdered 
some  one.  They  “ glor}-  in  their  shame.” 

‘ M’oman  is  not  so  degraded  and  down-trodden  as  in 
many  parts  of  the  heathen  world.  They  are  certainly 
the  burden-carriers  of  the  community;  but  that  does 
not  imply  the  degradation  which  it  would  do  with  us, 
and  they  resent  any  interference  on  the  part  of  the 
men  with  the  fetching  of  water  and  the  carrj-ing  of 


Heathen  Habits  in  New  Guinea  125 

wood,  as  an  infringement  of  their  women’s  rights. 
Domestic  affection  exists  to  a degree  which  surprised 
us.  Parents  caring  for  the  children,  long  after  they 
have  grown  up  to  maturity,  with  great  affection  and 
tenderness,  and,  what  was  more  remarkable,  the  children 
caring  for  the  parents  and  watching  over  them  when 
they  had  become  infirm  or  sick.  We  were  glad  to 
miss  the  vice  of  drunkenness,  for  no  man,  as  far  as 
we  know  the  country,  drinks  anything  stronger  than 
water.  There  is  a wonderful  absence,  too,  of  open 
immorality.  The  natives  are  industrious.  They  culti- 
vate the  soil  with  great  care,  and  I have  seen  there 
what  I have  never  seen  before  out  of  civilized  life, 
flowers  cultivated  in  their  gardens,  and  this  alone 
speaks  hopefully  for  their  future  development. 

‘ Religiously  all  is  a blank ; their  only  religious  idea 
seems  to  consist  in  a slavish  fear  of  evil  spirits  and 
a belief  in  the  deathlessness  of  the  soul.  The  spiritual 
darkness  may  be  felt,  but  it  can  scarcely  be  described. 
It  is  most  intense  at  the  grave.  The  hope  which 
Christianity  gives  of  re-union  after  the  grave  catches 
their  attention  in  a way  which  nothing  else  seemed  to 
command.’ 

These  graphic  sentences  of  Mr.  Lawes  permit  the 
reader  to  form  definite  ideas  about  the  new  home  to 
which  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers  went  in  the  year  1878. 

We  take  up  once  again,  at  this  point,  the  thread 
of  the  autobiography,  and  see  through  Chalmers’  own 
vivid  sketches  their  progress  from  the  settled  and 
peaceful  Rarotonga  to  the  wild  and  turbulent  district 
of  Suau. 

‘ On  leaving  Rarotonga  we  visited  New  Zealand  and 
Sydney.  It  took  us  three  weeks  to  get  to  Auckland 
and  thence  to  Dunedin.  With  my  wife’s  friends  we 


126  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

stayed  six  weeks,  also  doing  deputation  work.  This 
led  to  the  beginning  of  an  auxiliary  of  the  London 
^lissionary  Society  in  Dunedin.  Of  that  visit  I take 
the  following  account  from  The  Story  of  the  Otago 
Church  and  Settle7nent  by  the  Rev.  C.  Stuart  Ross  : — 
‘“In  July,  1877,  the  Rev.  James  Chalmers  arrived  in 
Dunedin  from  Rarotonga,  where  he  had  been  labouring 
for  some  ten  years.  He  was  on  his  way  to  join  the  New 
Guinea  JMission.  His  addresses  in  some  of  the  churches 
were  listened  to  with  intense  delight,  and  in  the  following 
month  a great  public  meeting  was  held  in  the  Temper- 
ance Hall,  to  bid  him  and  his  wife  God  speed  in  their 
heroic  and  arduous  enterprise.  The  building  was 
crowded  in  every  part,  and  those  who  were  privileged 
to  be  present  then  will  never  forget  the  grand  enthusiasm 
of  the  great  audience.  Deep  interest  was  excited  in  the 
mission  to  which  Mr.  Chalmers  had  devoted  himself, 
and  substantial  promises  of  help  to  him  in  his  work 
came  from  every  side.  With  many  a prayer  and 
commendation  to  the  grace  of  God  the  noble  mission- 
aries went  forth  to  their  field  of  labour ; and  all  too 
soon  the  tidings  came  back  that  one  of  them  was  smitten 
down  b}"  the  deadly  fever  which  is  bred  under  sweltering 
heat  in  jungle  and  morass.  Mrs.  Chalmers  had  remained 
at  her  husband’s  side — a noble  helpmeet  to  him  in  the 
labours  to  which  he  had  put  his  hand — until  failing 
health  compelled  her  to  seek  change  in  some  more 
healthful  and  bracing  dime.” 

‘ “ One  permanent  fruit  of  Mr.  Chalmers’  visit  to 
Dunedin  was  the  formation  of  an  Auxiliary  to  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  which  stimulated  practical 
interest  in  the  Society’s  work,  and  gave  cordial  welcome 
to  any  of  its  agents  who  happened  to  come  this  way.”  ’ 
‘Many  dear  triends  urged  my  wife  to  stay  in  Dunedin 


127 


The  Voyage  to  New  Guinea 

until  I could  get  somewhat  settled,  but  she  would  not 
be  moved,  saying  to  each  and  all,  “ No,  my  place  is  by 
my  husband’s  side.”  We  reached  Sydney  in  the  begin- 
ning of  September,  and  after  a few  days  stay  proceeded 
to  Somerset,  where  we  were  to  meet  a mission  vessel 
for  the  voyage  to  New  Guinea. 

‘We  arrived  at  Somerset  on  September  30,  1877,  and 
were  met  there  by  Mr.  (now  Dr.)  Macfarlane  in  the 
Bertha,  a schooner  which  had  been  chartered  in  Sydney 
for  the  mission,  the  steamer  Ellengowan  having  broken 
down  and  being  under  repair.  The  Bertha  was  certainly 
not  a clipper,  and  it  took  us  a whole  week  to  get  to 
Murray  Island,  the  chief  station  of  the  Western  Branch 
of  the  New  Guinea  Mission,  and  Mr,  Macfarlane’s  home. 

‘We  spent  a Sunday  at  Darnley  Island,  and  we  were 
delighted  with  what  we  there  saw  of  the  beginnings  of 
mission  work. 

‘ On  the  Monday  we  attended  the  first  Christian  burial 
on  the  island,  and  I suppose  the  very  first  in  the  whole 
mission. 

‘ On  Wednesday,  October  10,  we  sailed  for  Murray 
Island,  but  the  weather  being  boisterous,  and  the  channel 
not  well  defined,  we  took  three  days  to  get  there.  The 
people  were  emerging  from  savagery  and  heathenism ; 
services  were  well  attended  and  many  attended  school. 

‘ From  Murray  Island  we  crossed  to  Port  Moresby. 
When  In  Caution  Bay  we  stuck  on  a reef  for  some  time, 
and  so  were  too  late  to  get  to  Boera  for  the  Sabbath. 
In  the  evening  we  reached  that  village,  and  Mr.  (now 
Dr.)  Lawes  came  on  from  Port  Moresby,  and  gave  us 
a right  hearty  welcome  to  New  Guinea.  He  had  suffered 
much  from  fever,  and  was  waiting  for  a chance  to  go 
home.  The  following  day  the  Bertha  beat  up  to  Port 
Moresby.  I made  the  journey  from  Boera  in  the  boat 


128  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

with  Pin  and  his  wife  and  some  teachers  who  were  to  be 
taken  east.  It  was  my  first  experience  of  boating,  and 
it  tired  me  much,  as  I had  been  long  exposed  to  the  sun, 
and  very'  wet  with  salt  water.  I have  had  many  worse 
trips  since,  but  none  which  I remember  so  well. 

‘ The  first  night  at  Port  ^Moresby  we  slept  on  board 
the  Bertha,  but  the  following  day  we  landed  to  stay 
with  Mr.  Lawes.  He  had  been  very  ill  with  fever,  and 
was  anxiously  waiting  for  us  to  arrive,  so  that  he  might 
get  away.  Mrs.  Lawes  had  gone  away  very’  ill  the  year 
before,  and  had  decided  never  to  return.  We  made  a 
short  inland  trip,  but  not  for  any  great  distance.  On 
the  return  journey  I got  thoroughly  knocked  up. 

‘ Some  folk  had  incited  the  native  teachers  to 
insist  on  getting  much  higher  salaries,  and  there  was 
something  among  them  resembling  a strike.  But  this 
difficulty  soon  passed,  and  we  became  better  friends  than 
ever.  We  were  delighted  to  meet  Ruatoka  and  his 
wife,  and  Piri  and  his  wife.  These  were  two  of  the 
finest  teachers  sent  to  Xew  Guinea.  Piri  I had  never 
met  before,  but  he  was  a noted  Rarotongan  character. 
He  was  a very'  powerful  man,  stronger  far  than  any 
Xew  Guinean  I have  met.  He  was  born  at  Avarua 
about  the  year  1835,  twelve  years  after  the  landing  of 
Papeiha,  who  was  the  first  teacher  to  bring  the  Gospel 
to  the  islands.  Piri  attended  the  village  school,  and  was 
taught  to  read  and  write  there.  As  he  grew  up  towards 
manhood,  he  cast  off  all  restraint,  and  gave  way  to  aU 
the  evil  passions  of  the  youthful  native.  Orange  beer 
drinking  was  introduced  about  this  time  from  Tahiti, 
and  spread  all  round  the  island. 

‘ Piri  was  one  of  the  ringleaders  in  making  the  orange 
beer  and  drinking  it,  and  was  often  fined.  In  1857  the 
law  was  executed  with  a litde  more  stringency,  and 


129 


Piri  of  Rarotonga 

several  times  Piri  came  under  its  ban.  For  this  he 
blamed  the  white  missionary,  and  determined  to  kill 
him  with  his  own  hands. 

‘ Once  when  drunk  Piri  took  a spade  and  made  for  the 
mission  house.  He  was  seen,  and  a party  armed  with 
sticks  and  having  a rope  set  off  in  pursuit  of  him.  As 
he  was  getting  on  to  the  verandah  of  the  mission  house 
they  seized  him,  and  with  great  diflSculty  bound  him, 
and  led  him  back  to  the  coast.  He  was  kept  in  charge 
for  some  days,  and  when  really  sober  saw  the  terrible - 
ness  of  the  crime  he  had  been  saved  from  committing, 
and  vowed  that,  with  God’s  help,  he  would  never  again 
taste  drink.  He  began  attending  the  services,  and 
became  truly  converted. 

‘ Piri  became  a man  so  filled  with  the  Holy  Spirit  as 
to  earnestly  seek  the  salvation  of  souls,  and  felt  com- 
pelled to  go  to  the  heathen.  He  joined  the  Institution, 
and  after  a four  years’  course  was  sent  to  Samoa  to 
take  charge  there  of  a colony  of  Cook  Islanders.  He 
hoped  in  this  way  to  get  nearer  than  he  could  at  home 
to  the  fulfilment  of  his  great  desire.  He  did  good  work 
whilst  in  Samoa.  His  wife  died  there.  Some  time  after, 
Maki,  the  widow  of  a teacher  who  died  in  the  New 
Hebrides,  landed  at  Apia  on  her  way  to  her  home  on 
Mangaia.  Piri  asked  her  in  marriage,  and  she  consent- 
ing, they  were  married. 

‘This  wife  was  a very  fine  woman.  Piri  was  her 
second  husband.  In  the  New  Hebrides  fever  attacked 
the  missionary  party,  and  all  except  two  women,  Piri’s 
wife  one  of  them,  died.  These  women  were  at  first 
afraid  they  would  be  taken  by  the  chiefs  and  kept  as  their 
wives  ; but  one  old  chief  took  them,  and  treated  them  as 
his  daughters.  For  long  they  waited,  and  every  morn- 
ing they  used  to  ascend  a small  hill  at  the  back  of  the 


130  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

house,  and  scan  the  horizon  for  a sail.  Even  when  sick 
with  fever  they  used  to  crawl  up.  It  was  a long  weary- 
waiting,  and  then  one  died,  lea-ving  Maki  alone.  AU  hope 
of  ever  getting  away  was  given  up,  but  after  nearly  two 
years,  when  Maki  one  morning  ascended  to  the  look-out 
she  saw  a speck  in  the  far-away  distance.  As  the 
speck  increased,  and  the  ship  came  near,  the  poor 
woman  was  oveijoyed,  and  wept  profusely.  The  old 
chief  -was  sorry-  to  lose  his  daughter,  but  when  the 
vessel,  which  turned  out  to  be  the  John  M’’ilHams,  was 
off  the  island,  and  the  boat  came  ashore,  he  accompanied 
her  to  the  boat  weeping  bitterly.  The  John  M'’illiams 
had  been  to  England  in  the  interval,  hence  the  delay. 

‘In  1872  Messrs.  Murray  and  Wyatt  Gill  had  been 
appointed  to  take  the  first  batch  of  teachers  to  New 
Guinea,  and  see  them  landed  safely  somewhere  on  that 
savage  island.  In  July,  1872,  they  left  Rarotonga  in 
the  John  "Williams,  calling  at  Samoa  on  their  way  to 
New  Guinea.  There  Piri  and  his  -wife  pressed  Mr.  Gill 
so  hard  that  they  might  be  taken  to  New  Guinea  that 
he  consented,  and  so  they  made  the  sixth  couple  in  the 
company  of  native  teachers. 

‘ Piri  was  a very-  fine  specimen  of  humanity.  He  was 
about  six  feet  two  inches  in  height,  and  large  in  pro- 
portion. MTien  they  arrived  in  Redscar  Bay  Mr.  Murray 
and  Mr.  Gill  decided  to  land  them  all  at  Manumanu. 
Piri  landed  in  a flaming  red  shirt,  which  to  the  present 
day  (1898)  is  remembered  by  the  older  natives.  The 
natives  respected  him  much  and  feared  him.  He  was 
not  easily  moved  to  anger,  but  when  he  was  once 
aroused  it  -was  advisable  to  keep  out  of  his  way. 

‘ I remember  on  one  occasion  arriving  at  Boera  in  the 
night,  and  going  up  to  Piri’s  house  to  have  a sleep. 
Everything  was  left  in  the  boat,  so  as  to  be  ready  to 


Piri^s  Wife 


131 


start  when  the  tide  suited,  we  then  having  no  fear  of 
thieves.  After  breakfast,  the  boat  being  afloat,  I went 
on  board  with  the  crew,  and  we  found  that  not  a row- 
lock  was  left.  Piri  was  on  the  beach  with  his  wife, 
and  I landed  and  told  them  what  had  happened.  His 
wife  got  very  wroth,  but  no  one  seemed  to  mind  her  as 
she  went  through  the  village  demanding  the  return  of 
the  rowlocks.  We  then  sent  for  the  chief  and  headmen, 
and  met  them  in  Piri’s  house.  Piri  quietly  told  them 
that  the  rowlocks  must  be  returned  to  the  boat.  The 
chief  and  headmen  had  a run  through  the  village,  but 
it  was  of  no  use.  Piri,  now  thoroughly  roused,  stalked 
to  the  end  of  the  village  and  demanded  the  rowlocks, 
and  said  that  no  one  should  leave  the  village  until  they 
were  returned,  and  that  every  house  should  be  searched. 
He  looked  as  if  he  meant  what  he  said,  and  then  in  a 
very  strange  way  we  received  back  the  rowlocks  from 
a woman  who  said  she  had  found  them  in  the  street. 
I never  again  missed  anything  when  at  Boera. 

From  Manumanu  Piri  and  his  wife  were  removed  with 
the  others  because  of  serious  illness,  fever  being  very  bad 
there.  One  man  had  died  and  three  of  the  women. 
Finally  all  were  removed  to  Somerset,  to  be  near 
Mr.  Murray.  In  November,  1873,  being  much  better, 
the  teachers  were  returned  to  New  Guinea  and  placed 
at  Port  Moresby.  Piri  and  his  wife  went  to  Boera. 
For  sixteen  years  they  did  good  service,  and  their 
work  was  blessed. 

‘ Piri  accompanied  me  in  many  of  my  trips,  especially 
to  the  west  in  the  Gulf,  Several  Gulf  natives  who  had 
stayed  at  Boera,  and  received  many  kindnesses  from 
Piri  and  his  wife,  gave  us  a good  welcome  to  their 
villages,  and  made  our  stay  with  the  people  much  more 
satisfactory  than  it  might  otherwise  have  been.  He  is 

I 2 


132  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

said  to  have  introduced  the  large  potato,  and  for  3’ears 
along  both  the  east  and  west  coast  it  was  called  b}’-  his 
name.  In  1S78  he  and  his  wife  spent  a few  months 
with  us  at  Suau,  and  I saw  much  of  Piri  then.  He  was 
a good  man,  and  a man  of  pra^^er,  and  when  addressing 
new  teachers  he  always  told  them  to  live  much  in 
praj-er,  and  to  remember  that  Jesus  our  blaster  was 
never  far  away,  but  ever  near.  In  1887  he  and  his 
wife  accompanied  us  to  Motumotu.  "While  there  he 
was  attacked  with  dj-sentery.  He  got  better,  and  as 
soon  as  he  was  able  to  travel  he  left  us,  we  hoping  to 
meet  him  again  at  Boera,  but  his  work  was  done. 
They  got  safely  to  Boera,  where  he  had  a relapse,  and 
the>'  were  taking  him  to  Port  Moresby  to  Mr.  Lawes 
when  he  died  on  the  way,  in  January,  1888.  In  ]\Iay 
of  the  same  3"ear  his  wife  followed  him.  She  was  to 
have  gone  home  to  Mangaia,  but  I was  glad  she  was 
called  to  higher  sendee  where  her  husband  was.  They 
both  rest  side  by'  side  at  Boera,  near  to  the  house  on  the 
hill  by  the  village.  Piri  was  supported  by  our  friends 
in  Anderson’s  Bay,  near  Dunedin,  New  Zealand. 

‘"What  can  I say  of  Ruatoka,  who  now  (1898)  for 
twenty-six  y^ears  has  toiled  on,  enduring  many  hard- 
ships, in  sickness  often,  knowing  what  hunger  means, 
his  life  often  threatened,  and  yet  who  has  outhved  all 
his  compeers,  including  his  wife?  As  a young  man, 
we  were  greatly  attached  to  him  and  his  wife.  He 
was  born  at  Tamarua,  IMangaia,  in  the  year  1846.  His 
parents  dedicated  him  when  young  to  the  work  of  God. 
WTen  a lad  he  attended  Mr.  Wyatt  GUI’s  school,  and 
made  fair  progress.  He  joined  the  church,  and  after- 
wards came  to  live  with  the  missionary  in  order  to 
prepare  for  entrance  into  the  Rarotonga  Institution. 
He  married  Tungane,  the  daughter  of  a very  excellent 


Ruatoka 


133 


Christian  couple.  Her  father  had  for  many  years  been 
the  missionary’s  right-hand  man.  He  and  his  wife 
came  to  the  Institution.  As  a young  man  he  was  very 
tall  and  very  thin,  and  I feared  not  very  strong.  He 
was  all  that  could  be  desired,  and  I never  once  heard 
anything  against  him  or  his  wife.  We  became  very 
much  attached  to  them. 

‘The  year  before  sending  the  first  contingent  of 
teachers  to  New  Guinea,  and  before  any  had  been 
selected  for  the  work,  Ruatoka  broke  down  in  health, 
and  I feared  would  never  been  able  to  go  out.  Re- 
covering a little,  I appointed  him  one  of  the  pioneer 
band,  contrary  to  the  strongly  expressed  views  of  many 
in  Rarotonga,  who  thought  I was  throwing  away  a 
valuable  life.  Both  Ruatoka  and  his  wife  were  in 
ecstasies  at  the  thought  of  going,  yet  they  were  afraid 
with  a great  fear  that  I might  be  influenced  to  change 
the  appointment,  and  detain  them.  Going  about  to 
the  villages  agreed  with  him,  and  he  certainly  grew 
stronger.  Those  opposed  to  his  going  even  in  the 
last  week  thought  it  was  a sin  to  send  him  only  to 
die  shortly  after  landing  on  New  Guinea.  But  I felt 
convinced  I was  right  in  sending  them,  and  now  (Nov. 
1898)  he  is  the  only  one  remaining  out  of  that  band 
and  of  several  subsequent  bands  that  were  sent. 

‘ In  the  first  years  Ruatoka  and  his  wife  had  very 
hard  times,  knowing  much  sickness,  often  suffering 
from  hunger,  and  their  lives  frequently  threatened. 
They  have  often  had  to  keep  watch  all  night,  lest  they 
should  be  attacked  unawares  ; for  the  natives  every- 
where prefer  that  style  of  fighting.  All  subsequent 
bands  of  teachers  were  landed  at  Port  Moresby,  and 
then  placed  at  their  stations  by  the  white  missionary. 
Ruatoka  and  his  wife  were  as  father  and  mother  to 


134  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

these  newcomers.  "^iMien  the  sick  teachers  were 
brought  to  Port  Moresby  they  nursed  them  day  and 
nighL  iMany  died,  and  Ruatoka  and  his  wife  made 
their  coffins,  superintended  the  digging  of  their  graves, 
and  gave  them  Christian  buriah 

‘In  1 878  a large  party  of  gold  prospectors  came  to 
New  Guinea,  making  Port  ^Moresby  their  headquarters. 
\ er}'  many  of  them  became  sick,  and  many  died,  and 
to  them  all  Rua  and  his  vrife  were  ever  kind.  Rua- 
toka did  much  for  them.  Once  he  heard  the  pro- 
spectors were  about  to  be  attacked  by  inland  tribes, 
and  he  determined  if  possible  to  stop  it.  Getting 
together  a few  Port  ^loresby,  I^Iotuan,  and  Koitapuan 
natives,  he  marched  inland,  visited  the  prospectors, 
and  told  them  what  he  had  heard.  They  feared  that 
something  was  about  to  happen  from  the  stealthy 
ways  the  natives  were  seen  to  move  about.  At  times 
some  had  approached  near  to  the  camp  at  night,  and 
one  prospector  had  been  badly  used  by  some  natives. 

‘ Rua  had  heard  the  tribe  were  to  meet  at  Moumiri, 
and  so  he  determined  to  o-o  riofht  in  amongst  them. 
The  prospectors  chose  a parr\*  from  amongst  them- 
selves, all  armed,  to  accompany  Rua,  and  if  necessan,- 
fight  for  him ; but  Rua  decidedly  objected,  and  went 
with  his  natives  right  into  Moumiri.  where  there  was 
a great  gathering  of  armed  men  from  all  the  region 
rounch  At  first  the  natives  threatened  him,  but  he 
took  no  further  notice  than  to  say,  “MTiy  do  you 
want  to  kill  me  ? what  have  I done  ? ” He  then  reasoned 
with  them,  preached  to  them,  prayed  for  them,  and 
the  end  was  that  they  all  dispersed  to  their  homes. 
The  prospectors  on  his  return  thanked  him,  as  they 
were  very  anxious  to  be  on  friendly  terms  with  all  the 
natives,  and  succeeded  in  being  that  right  through. 


Ruatoka^s  Rescue  of  Neville 


135 


‘ On  two  occasions  Ruatoka  carried  prospectors  a 
long  distance  on  his  back  to  his  own  house,  and  so 
saved  their  lives.  One  was  Neville,  a gentleman  by 
birth,  and  an  army  man,  who  begged  of  the  prospectors 
in  Sydney  to  be  allowed  to  accompany  them  for  the 
sake  of  adventure.  He  was  on  his  way  in  from  the 
Larogi  to  Port  Moresby,  and  was  taken  very  ill,  and 
lay  down  to  die.  Natives  found  him,  but  as  it  was 
getting  near  night,  and  he  looked  like  dying,  they 
were  afraid  to  touch  him.  They,  on  arriving  at  Port 
Moresby  told  Rua,  and  he  begged  them  to  return 
with  him,  and  help  him.  But  no  New  Guinea  native 
could  do  such  a thing,  as  the  spirit  might  ever  after- 
wards haunt  them. 

‘ Ruatoka  got  a long  piece  of  cloth,  a small  lantern, 
and  bottle  of  water,  and  started  in  the  dark.  About 
five  miles  out  he  was  searching  in  the  long  grass  when 
he  heard  low  moaning,  and  going  whence  the  sound 
came  he  found  poor  Neville  nearly  dead,  quite  un- 
conscious. He  gave  him  a little  water,  then  fastening 
the  cloth  round  him  he  bent  down,  and  taking  the  two 
ends  in  his  hands,  and  using  all  his  strength,  he  got  the 
sick  man  on  his  back,  and  began  his  return  journey. 
He  had  to  cross  a range  of  hills  over  300  feet  high,  and 
as  day  was  breaking  he  arrived  at  his  house,  and  laid 
the  sick  man  on  their  one  bed,  to  be  cared  for  by  his 
wife,  whilst  he  lay  down  dead  beat.  Neville  was  nursed 
back  to  life,  and  was  able  to  return  inland,  where  some 
time  after  he  died  from  another  attack  of  fever. 

‘ Rua  is  a true  Sabbatarian,  and  it  often  vexed  his  soul 
to  see  the  abuse  of  that  sacred  day.  No  Sabbath  passed 
that  Rua  did  not  make  some  reference  to  it  to  the  few 
natives  who  attended  the  services.  It  was  hoped  gold 
would  be  found  in  large  quantities,  and  a German 


136  Among  the  Cannitals  at  Suau 

thcug'.'t  the  best  paying  concern  would  be  a store.  So 
he  built  one  a litde  way  from  the  back  of  the  mission 
ground.  ^ATien  the  store  was  finished  he  wanted  a 
cook-house,  and  that  he  ofot  a Scotchman  who  was  in 
from  the  river  to  put  up.  The  roof  was  put  on,  and 
on  the  Sabbath,  when  Rua  was  holding  his  forenoon 
service,  there  was  the  loud  noise  of  hammering  iron. 
For  a short  time  he  stood  it,  but  at  last,  telh'ng  his 
audience  to  go  home,  he  went  to  his  own  house  to  get 
an  English  Bible,  in  which  he  found  the  chapter  and 
verses  containing  the  Fourth  Commandment.  He  then 
marched  to  where  the  cook-house  was  being  put  up. 
The  German  and  a fiaend  were  sitting  on  the  doorstep 
of  the  store,  and  saw  the  teacher  coming,  and  wondered 
what  was  the  matter,  as  he  looked  vert*  solemn.  The 
Scotchman  was  on  the  top  of  the  cook-house.  Rua 
came  just  beneath  him,  and  knowing  onlt*  a little  Pidgen 
English,  he  said,  pointing  to  the  man  on  the  house, 
‘‘  Say,  come  down.”  The  white  man  was  somewhat 
astonished  to  have  such  a peremptoiy  order  from  a 
coloured  man,  and  did  not  answer.  “ Say,  you  know 
savee,  I speak  come  down.”  The  white  man  found  his 
tongue,  and  in  vert*  strong  language  sent  the  “ nigger  ” 
to  a very  hot  place.  I believe  the  wrath  of  the  white 
exploded  in  fearful  cursing.  Again  Rua  said,  “ AATat 
do  you  talk .'  You  white  fellow  send  missionary  along 
my  country,  and  my  countrt*  he  get  good,  and  he  like 
Sabati  much.  Before  my  countrymen  he  eat  you,  but 
no  now.  I come  along  Xew  Guinea,  I speak  man 
Sabati  he  tapu,  no  work,  no  fish,  no  hunt,  no  build 
house  on  Sabati ; and  Xew  Guinea  man,  he  say,  Ruatoka, 
you  make  lie,  white  man.  he  work  Sabati.  AATiat  for  you 
make  him  ? Come  down.”  Once  again  very  forceful 
adjectives,  and  the  teacher’s  wrath  rises.  The  tall, 


Ruatoka^s  First  Wife 


137 


powerful  man  at  last  makes  as  though  he  would  ascend 
the  ladder,  when  the  German,  knowing  well  what  would 
take  place,  shouts  out,  “Rua,  my  friend,  stop!  ” and  to  the 
white  man,  “ You  fool,  come  down  at  once,  can’t  you  see 
it  is  our  friend  the  teacher,  and  we  are  wrong?”  Rua 
was  roused,  so  when  the  white  man  came  down,  he 
handed  him  the  Bible,  and  ordered  him  to  read  the 
verses  he  pointed  out,  and  at  once.  The  white  man 
did  it,  and  then  the  teacher  said,  “ God,  He  speak,  you 
no  work  now.  Put  down  hammer  belong  you.”  There 
was  a quiet  Sabbath  for  the  remainder  of  the  day. 

‘ I have  taken  many  trips  with  Rua  along  the  coast 
and  inland,  and  have  ever  found  him  an  excellent 
travelling  companion.  It  was  when  away  on  one  of 
these,  looking  out  for  an  inland  position  as  a head 
station,  that  his  wife  was  left  in  entire  charge,  and  she 
conducted  schools  and  services  just  as  when  Rua  was 
at  home.  One  Sabbath  morning  she  was  speaking 
about  God’s  love  in  giving  Jesus,  and  that  day  the 
services  were  well  attended.  In  the  afternoon  she  spoke 
of  the  need  for  the  Holy  Spirit  to  work  in  all  their 
hearts,  and  said  that  when  He  did  they  would  be  changed 
and  love  Jesus.  Nearly  midnight,  long  after  she  and 
her  girls  had  gone  to  bed,  there  was  a knock  at  the 
door,  and  she  called  out,  “ Who  is  there  ? ” she  was 
answered  “I.”  “Who  are  you?”  again  “ I.”  No  native 
likes  giving  his  name.  The  girls  were  awakened,  and  one 
of  them  recognized  the  voice  as  that  of  Aruadaera,  and 
said  so.  Then  she  called  out,  “Is  it  you,  Aruadaera?” 
and  he  answered,  “It  is.”  “What  do  you  want?”  “Open 
the  door  and  let  me  in,  and  I will  tell  you.”  He  was 
evidently  in  great  distress,  but  she  replied,  “ It  is  now 
very  late,  and  we  are  all  in  bed,  so  come  in  the  morning.” 
“ No,  now ; I cannot  wait  until  the  morning.”  She  had 


138  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

to  strike  a match,  and  light  the  lamp,  and  let  him  in. 
“ Now,  what  is  it  ? ” “ I do  not  know  what  it  is,  but  I am 
afraid,  and  I think  it  must  be  the  Spirit  you  spoke  of 
working  in  my  heart.  I am  afraid  to  lie  down,  lest  I 
should  die,  for  I know  I am  bad,”  So  then  and  there 
she  told  him  of  Jesus,  and  prayed  for  him,  and  advised 
him  to  go  home,  and  come  back  in  the  morning;  but 
he  insisted  on  hearing  more,  and  being  prayed  for  again. 
He  left,  but  before  da}-h*ght  was  back  again,  and  sitting 
outside  the  door  waiting  for  it  to  be  opened.  He 
accepted  pardon  through  Christ,  and  became  quite  a 
changed  man.  He  was  the  first  baptized  native  in  New 
Guinea.  For  many  years  he  has  been  a deacon  in  the 
Port  Moresby  church,  and  an  earnest  Christian  man. 
He  was  well  advanced  in  years  when  he  was  converted, 
but  he  has  learnt  to  read  and  write.  Three  of  his 
daughters  became  wives  of  teachers,  and  have  done  very 
excellent  work.  He  has  been  a great  help  to  Ruatoka 
in  many  ways. 

‘In  December,  1885,  Ruatoka  lost  his  wife,  after 
a very'  short  illness.  She  had  shared  the  sufferings  of 
the  first  hard  5'ears  of  the  mission,  and  had  been  the 
first  to  teach  girls  to  read,  sew  and  iron.  Some  time 
after  Ruatoka  married  the  widow  of  a teacher,  and  she 
has  since  been  a very  great  help  to  him  in  all  his  work. 

‘ There  have  been  many  changes  of  white  missionaries 
at  Port  Moresby,  but  Rua  has  stuck  to  his  work.  In 
twent)'-six  years  he  has  had  only  one  change,  and  that 
to  Cooktown,  where  he  spent  a few  days.  He  is  greatlj’- 
respected  by  all.  The  governor,  government  officials, 
and  all  the  whites  speak  highly  of  him,  and  the  natives 
look  to  him  as  to  a father.  His  has  been  a grand 
career,  and  we  pray  it  may  continue  for  many  years. 

‘ But  much  of  the  work  of  these  two  noble  men  lay 


139 


First  Visit  to  East  Cape 

in  the  future.  When  we  first  set  foot  in  Port  Moresby- 
very  little  direct  result  of  mission  labour  could  be  seen 
among  the  natives.  A few  children  could  repeat  the 
letters  of  the  alphabet,  but  no  one  could  read.  I visited 
the  school  frequently,  but  was  disappointed  in  what 
I saw.  We  then  went  on  to  the  east,  leaving  Mr.  Lawes 
at  Kerepunu,  to  return  once  again  to  Port  Moresby, 
and  then  away  on  furlough  to  England.  I did  not 
again  meet  him  until  he  and  Mrs.  Lawes  returned  to 
resume  work  in  New  Guinea  in  i88i. 

‘ The  first  place  we  called  at  was  Teste  Island,  and 
there  Mr,  Macfarlane  left  two  teachers.  I felt  that  this 
station  was  too  far  away  from  my  teacher  at  Kerepunu. 
We  had  picked  up  a few  words,  and  we  got  on  very 
well  with  the  people.  From  Teste  Island  we  went  to 
Hoop  Iron  Bay  on  Basilisk  Island,  but  the  people  there 
were  not  inclined  to  be  friendly.  The  Mayri,  a small 
lugger,  had  followed  us  up,  and  Macfarlane  and  his 
teachers,  some  in  the  lugger,  some  in  a whaleboat, 
I accompanying,  went  to  Milne  Bay,  where  the  teachers 
were  placed  at  Killerton.  My  wife  remained  on  board 
the  Bertha.  We  returned  to  Hoop  Iron  Bay,  but  the 
Bertha  was  not  there,  and  on  going  out  towards  Teste 
Island  we  met  her  and  got  on  board.  An  attempt  had 
been  made  to  murder  the  crew  while  ashore  getting 
water,  and  a party  of  natives  on  board  had  turned 
nasty  at  the  same  time.  Those  ashore  got  to  the  boat, 
leaving  casks,  water-bags  and  buckets.  As  they  came 
near  the  vessel  all  the  natives  sprang  over  the  side  and 
went  ashore.  The  captain  did  right  in  leaving  that 
part  as  soon  as  possible. 

‘ I did  not  much  like  the  look  of  any  place  we  had 
seen  so  far.  Macfarlane  was  anxious  to  get  back  to 
Murray  Island,  so  we  stood  in  for  South  Cape.  When 


140  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

some  miles  off  we  came  to  a reef,  and  not  knowing  of 
any  passage,  the  boat  was  lowered,  and  I accompanied 
the  captain  to  explore  a bit.  and  tr}’-  and  find  an 
anchorage  inside,  ^^'^e  found  a fine  bay  between  South 
Cape  and  Suau.  A canoe  was  there  with  one  man  in 
it  fishing.  He  was  not  able  to  get  a\ray  from  us,  and 
we  pulled  towards  him.  When  some  distance  off  we 
called  out  and  held  up  a piece  of  red  cloth  and  some 
red  beads.  He  looked  as  if  in  great  terror,  and  it  took 
us  some  time  to  get  him  alongside  ; but  when  he  came 
he  was  comforted  with  small  presents.  He  was  an  evil- 
looking man,  and  wore  on  his  arm  a man’s  jaw-bone. 
We  left  him,  and  he  paddled  away  as  for  dear  life  to 
the  shore.  Getting  on  board  we  stood  over  the  reef  and 
in  towards  the  land,  and  came  to  an  anchor  in  the  bay, 
under  the  lee  of  Suau  Island.  It  was  stiU  early  in  the 
afternoon,  and  we  were  soon  surrounded  by  a number 
of  canoes.  The  noise  was  terrible.  My  wife  sat  on 
deck  knitting,  and  one  old  fellow,  wearing  a necklace 
of  human  bones,  took  to  her  and  became  her  friend. 
MTien  the  sun  had  set  they  all  had  to  leave  the  ship, 
as  we  allowed  no  canoe  to  remain  alongside  the  vessel 
after  sundown.  This  native  gave  Mrs.  Chalmers  to 
understand  by  signs  that  he  was  going  to  sleep,  and  in 
the  morning  he  would  return  with  food. 

‘ A watch  was  kept  all  night.  At  three  a.m.  a large 
canoe  was  seen  coming  towards  the  vessel,  and  was 
warned  off.  At  four  o’clock,  some  distance  up  the  bay, 
a flotilla  of  canoes  was  seen,  as  if  they  were  intending 
to  cross  the  bay.  Then  horn-blowing  began  and  wild 
shouting,  and  we  felt  as  if  they  were  going  to  attack  us ; 
until  at  length  it  became  evident  that  there  was  an 
opposing  party  coming  from  the  mainland,  and  the  fight, 
if  any  took  place,  would  be  amongst  themselves.  At 


Choice  of  a Home 


141 

five  o’clock  the  first  flotilla  bore  down  upon  us  in  a 
body,  but  we  warned  them  off  until  the  sun  appeared. 

‘ When  the  sun  was  rising,  in  the  first  canoe  alongside 
was  my  wife’s  friend  of  yesterday,  bringing  with  him 
a present  of  taro.  We  gave  him  a return  present. 
Several  of  our  new  friends  wore  human  jaw-bones  on 
their  arms,  and  also  many  bones  from  other  parts  of  the 
body.  Not  a few  seemed  evil-disposed,  and  as  though 
they  would  soon  have  picked  a quarrel.  After  break- 
fast we  got  into  the  boat,  taking  Kirikeu,  the  friend 
of  Mrs.  Chalmers,  with  us,  and  went  in  search  of 
a suitable  place  for  a mission  station.  One  thing  we 
specially  wanted  was  a good  supply  of  water,  near  to 
which  we  might  build.  We  had  a look  at  several  places, 
and  at  last  rounding  the  point  we  came  to  two  small 
villages  with  a bit  of  unoccupied  land  between,  and  a 
point  of  white  sand  running  out  into  the  Pass,  which 
was  afterwards  named  Mayri  Pass,  and  ending  in  black 
rocks.  The  position  was  good,  and  in  the  bush  behind 
was  water,  and  a short  way  along  the  beach  a good 
supply  of  fine  water,  which  the  old  man  told  us  never 
dried  up.  We  decided  on  the  spot  for  the  house,  and 
as  the  season  was  nearly  over,  and  the  schooner  had  to 
return  to  Port  Moresby  and  Murray  Island,  we  had 
to  make  haste.  I wanted  to  hire  a house  during  the 
time  our  own  was  being  built.  There  was  a house 
belonging  to  the  chief  Manuegu,  but  he  would  only  let 
us  have  one  end  of  it. 

‘ I got  tomahawks  and  knives  from  the  Bertha,  and 
landed  with  a number  of  young  men,  and  distributing 
the  tomahawks  and  knives  went  into  the  bush,  and 
showed  them  what  kind  of  wood  we  wanted.  Soon 
we  returned,  all  carrying  timber,  and  we  measured  the 
space  for  the  house — thirty-six  feet  by  eighteen  feet — 


142  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

and  showed  them  where  to  dig  holes  for  the  posts. 
Then  I returned  to  the  vessel,  and  began  to  land  the 
teachers’  things.  Securinof  some  old  sails  we  rio-ofed 
up  tents  ashore,  and  all  the  teachers  landed,  and  slept 
ashore  that  night.  In  the  morning  they  were  all  right. 
All  our  things  being  landed  on  the  Saturday  we  left  the 
vessel,  and  took  up  our  quarters  in  the  chief’s  house. 
Hanging  close  by  us  were  human  skulls,  and  all  round 
us  the  bones  of  pigs  and  cassowaries  and  fishes.  The 
division  between  our  small  apartment  and  the  chief’s 
was  about  two  feet  high,  and  in  the  early  morning, 
about  three  o’clock,  he  and  others  stepped  over  it,  and 
across  our  mattress.  The  whole  surroundings  were 
peculiar,  and  it  was  a weird  sight  to  look  out  in  the 
moonlight  between  these  human  skulls.  The  chiefs  end 
of  the  house  contained  also  clubs  and  spears  and  shields. 
A very  fine  Tamano  tree  grew  close  by,  and  had  been 
growing  there  for  ages,  and  one  could  only  wonder 
what  scenes  had  been  enacted  under  its  shade. 

‘ The  natives  informed  us  they  were  cannibals,  and  that 
human  flesh  was  good.  I once  had  a conversation  with 
an  old  cannibal,  converted  to  Christianity  when  I knew 
him.  “ Is  man  good  to  eat  ? ” “ You  savee  bulamakau  ? ” 
“Yes.”  “ Well,  no  good.”  “ You  savee  pig  ? ” “Yes.” 
“ Well,  no  good.”  “ You  savee  sheep  ?”  “ Yes.”  “ W ell, 
no  good ; man  he  too  much  good,”  and  he  smacked 
his  lips. 

‘ Sabbath  came,  and  we  held  Rarotongan  service,  and 
sang  many  hymns  imder  the  shade  of  the  old  Tamano 
tree.  We  were  all  in  excellent  health,  and  just  fit  for 
work.  The  Mayri  was  anchored  opposite  and  close  by. 
A few  days  later  the  Bertha  sailed.  We  had  put  some 
of  our  things  on  board  of  the  JMayri,  and  landed  them 
as  we  wanted  them.  We  were  anxious  not  to  excite 


On  the  Brink  of  Death 


143 


the  native  cupidity  by  a display  of  tools,  tomahawks, 
and  cloth.  One  afternoon,  after  resting,  we  were  turning 
again  to  work,  and  I went  down  the  beach  to  the  water’s 
edge,  and  called  to  the  captain  of  the  Mayri  to  look 
in  a certain  box,  and  find  a saw,  and  send  it  ashore. 
I heard  a noise,  and  on  turning  round  saw  our  house 
surrounded  by  an  armed,  ugly-looking  mob  of  painted 
savages.  I signed  to  the  captain  not  to  send  ashore, 
and  I rushed  up  and  got  through  the  cordon,  and  upon 
the  platform  in  front  of  where  we  slept.  The  excite- 
ment was  intense.  The  men  were  demanding  tomahawks, 
knives,  hoop-iron,  beads  ; and  by  signs  gave  us  to  under- 
stand that  if  they  did  not  get  them  then  they  would 
murder  us.  I felt  vexed,  since  we  had  been  particularly 
careful  to  avoid  trouble,  and  had  given  no  occasion  for 
offence. 

‘ One  evil-looking  fellow,  wearing  a human  jaw-bone, 
and  carrying  a heavy  stone  club,  rushed  towards  me  as 
if  to  strike.  Through  his  paint  I recognized  the  man  of 
the  canoe  when  we  first  came  in  the  boat.  Looking  him 
steadily  in  the  face  our  eyes  met,  and  I demanded  in 
loud,  angry  tones  what  he  wanted.  He  said  tomahawks, 
knives,  iron,  beads,  and  that  if  they  were  not  given  they 
were  going  to  kill  us.  “ You  may  kill  us,  but  never 
a thing  will  you  get  from  us.”  Some  of  the  teachers 
suggested  it  would  be  better  to  let  them  have  a few 
things  than  for  us  to  be  murdered.  I replied,  “ Can’t 
you  see  if  we  give  to  these  men,  other  parties  from  all 
round  will  come  and  make  demands,  and  the  end  will 
be  that  we  shall  all  be  murdered.^  ” “No,”  I said,  “ let 

them  do  it  now,  and  be  done  with  it.”  I was  in  quite 
a don’t  care  mood.  Kirikeu  then  approached,  and 
advised  me  to  give  a small  present,  as  those  who  were 
troubling  us  were  people  from  the  other  side  of  the 


144  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

island,  and  our  friends  at  Suau  could  not  do  much  for 
us  against  them.  Again  I replied,  “ No,  my  friend, 
never  to  people  carrying  arms  do  I give  a present.  All 
the  time  we  have  been  here  we  have  never  carried  arms, 
and  have  dwelt  amongst  you  as  friends.” 

‘ Kirikeu  then  began  to  harangue  the  crowd,  assisted 
by  the  chief  Manuegu,  and  all  retired  to  the  bush 
behind  the  house.  A deputation  waited  upon  me  from 
the  bush,  again  asking  me  to  give  something,  but  they 
received  the  same  answer,  “ I never  give  to  armed 
people.” 

‘ This  commotion  stopped  our  work,  and  that  night, 
for  the  first  time  since  we  landed,  we  kept  a watch  all 
night.  There  was  a good  deal  of  unrest  throughout 
the  night,  and  natives  were  seen  moving  about  in  the 
bush.  The  next  morning  we  resumed  work  just  as  if 
nothing  had  happened.  We  were  getting  the  wall 
plates  on  when  Kirikeu  came,  accompanied  by  a very 
decent-looking  native,  and  saying,  “ This  is  the  chief 
of  yesterday,  and  he  is  sorry  for  what  took  place.” 
I liked  the  look  of  the  man,  and  tried  to  explain  to 
him  his  error,  and  that  now  he  was  unarmed  and  clean 
we  were  glad  to  make  friends  with  him,  and  I went 
over  to  the  house,  taking  him  with  me,  and  there  gave 
him  a present, 

‘ When  the  house  was  finished,  and  half  the  flooring 
down,  we  left  the  chief’s  house,  and  were  glad  to  get 
quarters  of  our  own.  We  had  begun  sawing  wood  for 
flooring  and  other  necessary  work.  During  our  stay 
in  the  chief’s  house  my  wife  used  to  sit  on  the  platform 
sewing  or  tatting,  and  every  day  Bocasi,  a very  fine- 
looking  young  warrior,  wearing  the  shells  that  marked 
him  out  as  a fighting-man,  came  and  sat  in  front  of 
her.  He  helped  her  to  learn  the  language,  and  she 


145 


Life  among  Savages 

taught  him  tatting  and  knitting.  The  shifting  of  the 
goods  from  the  chief’s  house  to  our  new  home  was  no 
easy  matter ; and  twice  spears  and  clubs  were  handled 
by  the  natives  very  suspiciously.  They  claimed  every- 
thing we  had  taken  into  the  house,  but  at  length  we 
got  all  our  property  away.  Many  things  were  stolen. 
The  loss  which  troubled  us  most  was  the  theft  of  our 
camp  oven.  We  never  saw  it  again  for  two  years,  and 
then  found  it  had  been  stolen  by  a man  who  had  been 
most  friendly  towards  the  teachers.  I afterwards  sent 
the  chief  a present,  in  addition  to  paying  him  for  the 
use  of  his  house,  and  for  the  ground  the  teachers 
occupied  with  their  tents. 

‘ We  now  began  to  feel  ill  and  feverish,  I suffering 
most  because  of  a severe  attack  of  diarrhoea.  It  was 
nearing  the  end  of  the  year,  and  I,  having  bought 
a piece  of  land  for  planting  purposes,  was  anxious  to 
have  it  cleared  and  planted,  so  that  on  January  i,  1878, 
I might  be  free  to  travel  along  the  coast  to  Orangerie 
Bay  on  the  one  side,  and  Leocadie  on  the  other.  We 
missed  Bocasi  for  some  time,  and  wondered  what  had 
become  of  him.  We  got  news  that  some  white  men 
had  been  murdered  on  an  island,  and  everything  they 
possessed  divided  out  among  the  murderers.  This  led 
to  great  unsettledness  amongst  the  natives ; but  we 
went  steadily  on  with  our  work. 

‘ We  were  getting  to  know  many  of  the  people,  and 
we  fancied  that  we  had  gained  their  confidence.  Many 
of  the  natives  showed  kindness  in  bringing  us  vegetables 
and  fish.  We  also  received  numerous  invitations  to 
feasts,  some  of  which  were  to  cannibal  feasts.  It  was  at 
this  time  that  Kirikeu,  as  a kindly  attention  to  Mrs. 
Chalmers,  brought  and  offered  to  her  as  a present  a 
portion  of  a man’s  breast  already  cooked  1 We  were 


146  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

still  watched  day  and  night.  I was  told  frequently  that 
I should  be  a great  chief  had  I onl\'  more  than  one 
wife.  One  chief  oflfered  me  his  eldest  daughter  as  a 
beginning. 

o o 

‘Just  before  Christmas  with  some  natives  I was  in  the 
bush  at  the  back  clearing,  the  teachers  were  at  the  seaside 
sawing,  when  Johnnie,  one  of  the  crew  of  the  Mayri, 
who  was  ashore  getting  wood  and  water  for  our  trip  to 
the  west,  came  to  me  in  the  bush,  and  said,  “ I think  we 
are  going  to  have  trouble.  Natives  all  look  bad,  and  he 
been  off  try  ing  make  row  we  fellow.”  “ Oh  no,  I think 
it  is  all  right,”  I replied.  But  I told  the  men  to  knock 
off  work,  and  come  to  the  cook  house,  where  I would 
pay  them  for  what  they  had  done.  I was  papng  them, 
when  I heard  two  shots  fired  from  the  Maj'ri.  I quickl}’ 
picked  up  m3"  things,  and  made  a bound  for  the  house. 
The  saw5*ers  did  the  same.  Two  of  the  crew  were  with 
us.  This  left  on  board  the  l\Ia3Ti  the  captain  and  cook, 
a Darnle}"  Islander  named  Kanguroo. 

‘ I insisted  that  the  crew  should  return  on  board,  and 
on  looking  out  towards  the  vessel,  I saw  that  she  was 
in  charge  of  natives,  and  the  long  sennit  hawser  kept 
on  deck  had  been  passed  ashore  to  natives  on  the  reef, 
and  some  natives  were  pulling  up  the  anchor,  and  that 
in  a few  minutes  more  the  vessel  would  be  ashore. 
I also  heard  shouting  from  the  beach  where  the  dinge}’ 
was,  and  one  of  the  crew  came  running  up  to  sa}"  that 
the}^  would  not  let  them  get  the  boat  awa}'.  I sprang 
down  from  the  house,  and  vaulted  over  the  fence,  ran  to 
the  boat  and  sent  the  natives  fl3nng,  and  got  her  off.  The 
natives  on  board  the  vessel  seeing  the  dinge)"  coming 
off,  let  go  the  anchor,  and  sprang  overboard,  and  those 
on  the  reef  ran  along  the  beach  to  the  village. 

‘ Firing  began  from  the  vessel  as  soon  as  the  crew 


Death  of  Bocasi 


147 


got  on  board,  and  the  shots  came  to  the  village,  and 
into  the  bush.  Natives  were  arming,  and  the  bush 
seemed  all  alive  with  them.  I went  on  to  the  beach, 
and  as  far  as  the  chief’s  house,  where  I saw  two  men 
who  had  been  wounded,  and  came  back  to  the  house 
for  bandages.  A crowd  was  gathering  round  the  house, 
all  carrying  arms,  spears  and  clubs.  When  at  the 
chief’s  house  I was  told  that  Bocasi  was  on  board  the 
vessel,  and  so  getting  into  a small  canoe  I took  two 
men  with  me,  and  they  paddled  off.  I thought  that 
possibly  the  native  was  being  detained  as  a hostage 
for  peace,  but  on  nearing  the  vessel  I called  out,  “ Is 
there  stiU  a man  on  board  ? ” and  the  answer  was,  “ Yes, 
he  board.”  I felt  he  was  dead,  and  so  I said,  “Is  he 
shot?”  “Yes,  he  shot  dead,  yes,  he  dead.” 

‘ Getting  on  board,  I found  the  deck  covered  with 
blood,  and  the  captain  leaning  against  the  mainmast 
white  and  weak  from  loss  of  blood.  He  had  been 
speared  in  the  side,  and  he  had  a fearful  cut  on  his 
foot.  In  the  small  hold  was  the  body  of  Bocasi,  and 
my  canoe  men  decided  to  take  it  ashore;  they  were 
getting  it  on  deck,  but  I felt  that  it  would  never  do 
to  allow  them  to  land  it.  To  take  the  body  to  land 
with  me  would  mean  instant  death  to  us  all  at  the 
hands  of  the  enraged  natives.  To  allow  it  to  land 
before  me  would  mean  the  death  of  those  ashore,  and 
also  that  I would  not  be  allowed  to  return  to  the  land. 
So  I stepped  quickly  into  the  canoe,  caught  the  man 
in  it  under  his  arm  and  made  him  come  with  me.  He 
was  a son  of  our  old  friend  Kirikeu,  and  I asked  him 
to  let  me  get  to  the  house  before  he  said  anything. 

‘The  principal  people  seemed  friendly,  and  kept 
assuring  us  that  aU  was  right,  we  should  not  be  harmed. 
Great  was  the  wailing  when  the  body  was  landed,  and 

K 2 


148  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

arms  were  up  and  down  pretty  frequendy.  Canoes 
beo^an  to  crowd  in  from  the  regions  around. 

‘ At  dusk  I sent  off  to  the  Mayri  some  things  for  the 
nadve  who  was  going  to  act  as  captain,  and  for  the  mate, 
and  I told  them  to  send  by  the  native  teacher  in  the 
canoe  all  the  barter  that  could  be  spared  us,  and  stand 
in  readiness  for  the  signal  to  be  off.  A native  then 
came  in  to  us  quietly  through  the  bush  and  sai::. 
“ Tamate,  you  must  get  away  to-night  if  you  can ; at 
midnight,  perhaps,  you  may  have  a chance  ; to-morrow 
morning,  when  the  big  star  rises,  they  will  murder  you.” 
“Are  you  sure  of  it?”  I asked.  “Yes;  I have  just 
come  from  their  meedng  at  the  chief’s  house,  and  that 
is  their  decision ; they  will  do  nothing  till  to-morrow 
morning.”  Just  before  that  there  had  been  a rush  of 
the  natives,  as  if  they  were  going  to  take  the  mission 
house ; but  stiU.  they  did  not  break  the  fence.  They 
simply  came  close  up,  defying  us  and  vowing  vengeance. 
The  chief  himself  came  to  the  house  at  dusk  and  said, 
“ You  must  give  compensation.”  “ Yes,”  I said,  “ I will 
give  compensation  ; but,  remember,  I have  had  nothing 
to  do  with  Bocasi’s  death.”  “You  must  give  it  now,” 
he  said.  “ I cannot,”  I rephed  ; “ if  you  come  to-morrow 
when  the  big  star  rises,  I will  give  it  you.”  He  then 
went  sulkily  away  ; and  it  w’as  then  that  the  native  told 
me  about  the  probabihty  of  our  being  murdered  in  the 
morning. 

‘ I told  Mrs.  Chalmers  what  the  chief  had  told  me, 
and  I said,  “ It  is  for  you  to  decide.  Shall  we  men 
stay  and  you  women  go,  as  there  is  not  room  enough 
for  us  all  on  the  vessel  ? Or  shall  we  try  aU  of  us  to 
go  ? Or  shall  we  aU  stay  ? ” The  answer  I received 
was,  “We  have  come  here  to  preach  the  Gk)spel  and 
dp  these  people  good ; God,  whom  we  serve,  will 


A Time  of  Strain 


149 


take  care  of  us.  We  will  stay.  If  we  die,  we  die  ; if 
we  live,  we  live.”  The  teachers’  wives  then  came  up, 
and  I put  the  same  question  to  them ; and  they  said 
that  whatever  my  wife  did  they  would  do ; “ Let  us 
live  together  or  die  together.”  We  decided  to  stay,  and 
we  then  had  evening  prayer.  We  dared  not  sing  the 
evening  hymn,  because  it  would  draw  the  people  about 
us.  I read  the  forty  - sixth  Psalm  and  engaged  in 
prayer.  As  I was  praying  in  the  Rarotongan  dialect 
we  heard  the  anchor  being  pulled  up,  and  when  I had 
finished  I could  see  the  last  of  the  Mayri  going  out  of 
the  bay.  The  bridge  was  then  broken,  and  we  had 
simply  to  trust  Him  who  alone  could  care  for  us. 

‘ The  noise  during  the  night  had  somewhat  abated, 
but  in  the  morning  we  could  hear  the  natives  coming 
all  round  from  very  long  distances,  from  which  the 
war-horn  called  them.  At  four  o’clock  the  chief  came 
to  see  me.  During  the  night  I had  got  tomahawks, 
hoop-iron,  red  beads,  and  cloth  together.  Mrs.  Chalmers 
and  myself  made  parcels  of  them — a large  parcel  for  the 
friends  of  the  one  who  was  killed,  and  smaller  parcels 
for  the  wounded.  These  were  shown  to  the  chief.  “ It 
is  not  enough,”  he  said  ; “ cannot  you  give  any  more  ?” 
I replied,  “ If  you  will  wait  till  the  steamer  comes 
I may  be  able  to  give  you  more  ; but  at  present  I 
cannot.”  “ I must  have  more  now.”  “ I cannot  give 
you  more  now.”  The  man  then  went  away,  and  we 
expected  that  the  natives  would  attack  us  immediately. 
Several  of  them  came  as  far  as  the  fence  and  demanded 
more,  but  we  took  no  notice,  and  they  went  away. 

‘ During  all  that  day  (Sunday)  we  could  not  tell 
when  the  attack  would  be  made.  Of  course  during  the 
night  and  day  we  had  to  keep  watch  and  watch.  On 
Monday,  when  a funeral  feast  was  going  on,  and  the 


150  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

man  who  was  killed  was  being-  buried,  we  thought  that 
surely  the  attack  would  be  made.  The  old  man,  who 
seemed  to  be  veiy^  friendly,  kept  close  by  us,  and  told 
us  that  we  must  not  on  any  account  go  outside,  and 
that  he  would  be  our  friend.  A Tanosine  canoe  came 
in  with  a number  of  natives,  all  fighting  men,  and 
demanded  that  they  should  be  allowed  to  do  as  they 
liked.  They  were  told  that  the  white  man  and  his 
friends  would  be  murdered  in  payment  for  what  had 
been  done,  and  the  natives  of  Suau  told  those  from 
Tanosine  that  they  would  attack  us  at  once. 

‘ I had  been  on  watch  in  the  night,  and  at  three  o’clock 
I had  just  turned  in.  I had  not  been  long  asleep  when 
l\Irs.  Chalmers  called  out : “ Quick ! they  have  taken 
the  house.”  I sprang  from  my  bed  and  rushed  to  one 
of  the  doors,  which  was  simply  made  of  a piece  of  cloth. 
I threw  the  cloth  aside,  and  there  was  a large  armed 
party  standing  in  front  of  us,  and  others  at  the  end  of 
the  house.  I could  see  in  the  dimness  of  the  morning 
that  they  were  led  by  the  old  chief  from  the  mainland. 
Standing  before  him,  I said,  “ "WTiat  do  you  want  ? ” 
“ Give  us  more  compensation,”  said  he,  “ or  we  will  kill 
you  and  burn  the  house  now.”  “ Kill  }'OU  may,”  1 said, 
“ but  no  more  compensation  do  I give.  Remember,  if 
we  die  we  shah,  die  fighting;  and  there  is  an  end  of  it.” 
The  old  man  got  frightened.  Then,  for  the  first  time, 
we  took  down  the  musket,  and  showed  it  to  the  old  man. 
Some  powder  was  put  in  and  some  small  shot  The 
people  had  seen  us  shoot  birds  before.  1 said  to  the  old 
man,  “ Go ! teU  them  that  we  are  going  to  fight,  and 
there  must  be  an  end  to  this.  The  first  man  that  crosses 
where  that  fence  stood  ” (for  it  had  been  thrown  down) 
“ is  a dead  man  ! Go  ”!  They  retired,  leaving  us  alone 
with  Him  who  ever  cares  for  His  children. 


Life  in  Peril 


151 

‘ For  about  an  hour  and  a half  they  had  a long 
discussion.  At  last  the  old  man  came  back,  calling  me 
by  name.  I challenged  him ; I would  not  allow  him  to 
come  inside  the  fence,  as  we  feared  treachery.  He  said, 
“ It  is  all  right,”  and  looking  out  we  saw  a large  war 
canoe  manned,  and  several  hundred  smaller  canoes  being 
lifted  into  the  water.  The  natives  in  the  war  canoe 
were  standing  up  and  saying  to  the  people  on  shore, 
“ To-morrow  we  return,  not  only  to  kill  the  white  man 
and  his  friends,  but  to  kill  all  of  you.”  It  ended  simply 
in  this  way.  The  chief  had  said,  “ Before  this  white 
man  came  here  with  his  friends  I was  nobody  ; they  have 
brought  me  tomahawks,  hoop-iron,  red  beads,  and  cloth  ; 
you  have  no  white  man,  and  if  you  try  to  kill  him,  you 
kill  him  over  my  body.”  So  our  lives  were  saved.  We 
dared  not,  however,  go  far  into  the  bush  or  into  the 
eastern  side  of  the  village. 

‘ Amidst  all  the  troubles  Mrs.  Chalmers  was  the  only 
one  who  kept  calm  and  well.  The  people  became  much 
quieter,  and  no  new  demands  were  made  upon  us.  A 
few  days  later  a cannibal  feast  of  which  we  had  heard 
was  held,  and  some  of  our  friends  took  part  in  it. 

‘ The  Ellengowan  arrived  on  January  20.  The  natives 
were  beginning  to  think  no  vessel  would  come ; but 
when  it  arrived  they  were  frightened,  and  willing  to 
forget  the  Mayri  affair.  After  her  arrival  we  were  able 
to  go  about  among  the  people  again. 

‘Early  in  1878  I began  the  exploration  of  my  dis- 
trict, and  one  of  the  first  places  I visited  was  the  Leo- 
cadie  group  of  islands.  The  people  were  kind,  and  did 
their  best  for  us.  We  arrived  on  a very  stormy  night, 
and  had  wretched  quarters,  and  were  glad  when  morning 
came.  In  the  morning  the  people  looked  unsettled, 
and  as  if  they  were  likely  to  become  hostile,  and  we 


152  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

got  awav  as  quickly  as  possible.  At  the  Leccadie,  not 
very  long  before  our  visit,  the  natives  had  murdered 
a whole  crew  of  Chinamen. 

‘ From  Leocadie  we  went  to  the  Brumer  Islands. 
I was  very  thirsy,  and  at  the  first  place  we  called 
I asked  for  water  to  drink.  After  a short  time  a 
cocoanut  cup  full  of  water  was  handed  to  me,  and 
I drank  it,  and  felt  a peculiar  nasty  taste  in  my  mouth. 
A teacher  who  was  sitting  aft  asked  me  to  pass  it  to 
him,  as  he  too  was  thirsy,  but  I told  him  not  to  drink, 
as  the  water  had  a nasy  bitter  taste.  Soon  after  we 
left  I became  ver\-  sick,  and  vomited  with  very  severe 
retching.  We  had  to  put  into  Baibeseka  and  be  helped 
up  to  a house.  I remained  there  until  nearly  sundown. 
The  crew  were  vety  kind  and  attentive.  On  getting 
home  I went  to  bed,  and  was  lU  for  a month. 

‘ On  my  first  visit  to  Tepauri  we  had  an  exciting 
time.  The  Suau  people  were  at  deadly  enmiy  with 
the  Tepauri  people,  and  only  a short  time  before  our 
arrival  there  had  been  a big  cannibal  feast  at  Suau  of 
captives  taken  from  the  other  side.  I determined  to 
make  peace  between  the  two.  and  that  the  Tepauri 
natives  should  be  allowed  to  visit  us.  I proposed 
visiting  them,  but  our  Suau  ftiends  opposed  it.  On 
a Sunday  afternoon  I said,  “ To-morrow  I go  to  Te- 
pauri, and  I want  Kirikeu  and  Manuegu  to  accompany 
me.’’  But  no  one  would  accompany  me.  In  the  evening 
I was  sitting  at  the  front  door  with  my  wife,  when  a 
number  of  natives  came  before  us.  some  of  them  carrvinor 

o 

skulls.  The  skulls  were  placed  in  a row,  and  then  our 
old  ftiend  Kirikeu  said,  “ Friend,  are  you  going  over 
there  to-morrow  ? ” and  I replied,  “ Yes.  I intend  going.’ 

“ Do  you  see  these  skulls .'  They  belonged  to  people 
we  killed  from  over  there,  and  on  these  rocks  ” ^^black 


153 


Making  Peace  at  Tepauri 

rocks  on  the  water’s  edge  in  front  of  the  house)  “ we  cut 
the  bodies  up,  cooked  and  ate  them.  They  have  not 
been  paid  for,  and  your  head  would  be  considered  good 
payment,  as  you  are  our  great  friend.”  Looking  at  me 
he  went  on,  “ Will  you  go  now  ? ” “ Yes,  I go  to-morrow 
morning,  and  God  will  take  care  of  us.” 

‘ I had  one  teacher  who  was  a widower,  and  I said  to 
him,  “ Beni,  you  heard  all  the  natives  said  yesterday. 
I am  going  to  Tepauri,  will  you  come  with  me  ? ” 
After  prayers  we  went  to  the  dingey,  and  the  excitement 
on  the  beach  was  great.  Every  effort  was  made  to  pre- 
vent our  going.  We  got  off  to  our  small  mission  lugger, 
the  Mayri,  and  sailed  over.  We  anchored  well  off,  and 
then  Beni  and  I pulled  in  the  dingey  to  the  reef,  where 
we  got  out  in  three  feet  of  water.  There  was  a noisy 
crowd  of  armed  natives  ashore,  and  I feared  that  they 
might  seize  the  dingey,  so  I sent  her  back  with  the  man 
to  the  vessel.  We  waded  ashore,  and  the  noise  was 
great,  and  the  spears  and  clubs  numerous.  They 
danced  around  us,  shouting  all  the  time.  Then  we 
were  seized  by  the  hand  and  hurried  along  the  beach, 
I protesting  all  the  way,  but  to  no  purpose.  Beni  was 
just  behind  me,  and  around  us  the  crowd  kept  up 
a swinging  dance,  using  their  spears  and  clubs,  pre- 
tending to  throw  them  or  to  strike  a blow  at  an  enemy. 
One  word  we  thought  we  could  make  out,  goira^  goiraf 
This  we  interpreted  to  mean,  “ spear  them  ! spear  them ! ” 
On  Rarotonga  the  word  would  have  been  koia^  and 
we  fancied  that  which  we  now  heard  might  be  the  same 
word. 

‘We  came  to  a dry  watercourse,  and  up  that  they 
constrained  us  to  go,  but  getting  my  heel  against  a 
stone  I protested,  and  Beni  did  the  same.  But  it  was 
no  use  ; we  were  just  lifted  over.  I turned  to  Beni,  and 


154  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

said,  “ Trj’'  to  get  back,  they  may  let  you  return.” 
“ I am  trj’ing  all  the  time,  but  it  is  no  use.”  “ Well, 
what  do  3’ou  think  of  it  ? ” “ Oh,  they  are  taking  us  to 
the  marai  to  kill  us.”  “ It  looks  like  it.”  The  marai 
is  the  sacred  place  in  Eastern  Polynesia  where  the  gods 
are  supposed  to  live,  and  where  sacrifices  are  offered. 
^\'’e  had  only  recently  left  the  Cook  Islands,  and  knew 
nothing  of  Xew  Guinea,  so  it  Is  no  wonder  we  thought 
that  there  might  be  sacred  places  In  the  thick  bush. 

‘ The  bush  was  dense.  I turned  to  Beni,  and  said, 
“ No  use,  Beni,  God  is  with  us,  so  let  us  go  on  quiedy.” 
'\^’’e  reached  the  hiU,  and  near  to  a large  rock,  with  moss, 
ferns,  and  lichens  in  abundance  around  it,  there  was 
water  dropping  into  a cool  pool  below.  It  was  a fine 
cool,  refreshing  place.  I was  made  to  stand  on  a stone 
near  the  pool,  and  Beni  on  another,  and  the  crowd  all 
round  us,  when  the  man  who  held  my  hand  spoke, 
and  this  is  what  we  made  of  it  Their  word  for  water, 
we  discovered  later,  was  goira.  “Tamate,  look,  there 
is  good  water ; it  is  yours,  and  all  this  land  is  j'ours, 
and  our  young  men  will  begin  at  once  to  build  you  a 
house.  Go  and  fetch  your  wife,  and  leave  that  bad 
murdering  lot  you  are  now  among,  and  come  and 
live  with  us.”  They  had  heard  that  when  we  arrived 
at  Suau  our  first  inquiry’  had  been  for  good  water. 
This  was  their  reason  for  at  once  leading  us  inland. 

‘ Our  return  to  the  beach  greatly  relieved  our  friends 
on  board  the  !Mayri,  for  the)’  had  begun  to  think  we 
were  murdered,  ^^*e  remained  a while  to  accept  the 
hospitallt)'  of  the  natives,  and  then  returned  to  Suau. 
Our  own  people  kept  away  for  some  time,  and  then 
a few  came  saying,  “ They  did  not  kill  you,  but  did  you 
eat  anything?”  “Oh  yes,  plenty.”  “You  should  not 
have  done  that,  as  they  will  have  poisoned  you.”  I 


155 


A Frightened  Savage 

had  an  attack  of  fever  the  following  day,  and  the 
people  became  very  excited,  lest  I should  die,  and  they 
were  sure  I had  been  poisoned ; but  no  harm  came 
of  it. 

‘ My  first  visit  to  Farm  Bay  was  interesting.  About 
forty  years  ago  one  of  Her  Majesty’s  ships  stood  in  to  the 
bay,  but  seeing  the  natives  coming  out  in  numerous  canoes, 
and  apparently  hostile,  rather  than  come  into  collision 
the  captain  put  about,  and  stood  away.  The  reports 
of  Farm  Bay  from  our  natives  and  others  were  very 
bad ; but  I determined  to  get  to  know  them.  Before 
going  on  any  of  these  expeditions  we  always  had  a 
meeting  for  prayer.  I landed  at  Navapo  in  my  whale- 
boat. As  we  neared  the  beach  I stood  on  the  bow, 
and  sprang  ashore  ; the  boat  was  then  backed  into  deep 
water.  The  beach  swarmed  with  natives,  but  they 
gave  me  a wide  berth  as  I walked  up  to  the  nearest 
house.  I was  dressed  in  white  except  my  boots,  which 
were  black.  The  natives  kept  at  a good  distance  from 
me,  and  discussed  me.  Some  thought  it  better  to  get 
their  spears  and  clubs,  and  many  of  these  were  in  the 
long  grass  close  by.  My  clothing  bothered  them,  and 
the  black  feet  frightened  them.  One  came  and  touched 
and  tested  the  shirt,  and  found  that  it  was  all  right ; 
it  was  cloth.  Then  the  trousers  were  tried,  and  also 
pronounced  right.  The  brave  ones  who  came  to  try 
returned  to  the  others  to  discuss  the  position ; but  no 
one  had  yet  had  the  pluck  to  touch  my  feet.  At 
last  one  old  woman  could  stand  the  uncertainty  no 
longer,  and  she  came  slowly  up,  tears  rolling  down  her 
cheeks,  and  covering  her  heart  with  her  arm,  lest  I 
should  see  how  excited  she  was,  she  tried  first  the  shirt, 
then  the  trousers.  She  then  looked  piteously  up  at 
me,  and  I nodded,  as  I knew  well  what  she  was  going 


156  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

to  do.  She  then  placed  her  hand  on  my  left  boot  and 
was  feeling  it.  I picked  my  right  foot  up  and  drew 
off  my  boot.  Poor  woman!  she  screamed  and  rushed 
away,  and  with  her  the  whole  crowd,  helter  skelter  into 
the  bush,  and  I saw  no  more  of  them.  In  after  visits 
to  the  Bay  we  became  capital  friends,  and  teachers  were 
settled  among  them. 

‘ The  Suau  natives  quite  appreciated  our  living  with 
them,  and  they  were  right,  as  they  thought  afterwards, 
in  not  permitting  us  to  be  murdered.  For  if  they  had, 
they  never  again  would  have  had  a white  man  living 
amongst  them,  and  then  where  would  they  have  been 
able  to  get  knives,  hoop-iron,  tomahawks,  large  knives, 
beads,  and  cloth  ? Now  they  were  people  of  note,  and 
even  their  enemies  acknowledged  this.  I remember 
that  a few  months  after  we  landed  they  made  up  a very 
large  party  from  other  villages,  and  proceeded  west 
to  visit  their  friends  and  to  trade.  They  had  now  a 
good  bit  of  trade  in  hand  from  house-building,  and 
land  purchase,  food,  water,  and  few  curios.  For  the  pur- 
chase of  land  they  had  received,  amongst  other  things, 
large  sugar-cane  knives,  and  I certainly  made  a mistake 
in  giving  them  these.  As  soon  as  they  got  them  they 
began  to  brandish  them,  and  to  imitate  playfully  the 
cutting  off  of  heads.  Many  canoes  all  strongly  manned 
went  west,  and  in  about  a fortnight  retm-ned  with  much 
conch -shell  blowing,  shouting,  and  dancing,  and  carrying 
on  as  if  returning  from  a great  victory.  They  told  us 
that  they  had  had  a very  good  time,  and  that  everywhere 
they  had  proclaimed  that  they  had  a white  man  living 
with  them,  and  all  those  who  heard  this  respected  them 
much.  They  brought  us  presents  of  sago  and  bananas, 
and  we  were  now  the  very  best  of  friends. 

‘ Some  time  after  this  I went  along  the  coast,  and  in 


157 


A Narrow  Escape 

what  we  called  Fife  Bay  very  nearly  came  to  grief, 
I landed  in  the  whaleboat,  the  mate  of  the  steamer 
Ellengowan  landing  with  me.  The  tide  was  far  out, 
and  we  left  the  boat  in  charge  of  the  crew,  two  South 
Sea  Islanders,  with  instructions  to  be  sure  and  keep  her 
afloat.  Just  when  landing  some  natives  who  had  come 
down  to  the  beach  strongly  objected  to  my  leaving  the 
boat ; but  I insisted,  and  stepped  into  the  water,  followed 
by  the  mate.  We  got  right  up  the  beach  through  the 
mangrove  to  the  house  of  the  chief,  for  whom  I had 
asked.  He  was  a sulky,  sullen  fellow,  and  would  have 
nothing  to  do  with  me.  I told  him  who  I was,  and  he 
replied  he  knew  all  about  me.  He  was  nursing  a 
baby,  a grandchild  I supposed,  and  I thought  of  getting 
at  him  through  the  bairn.  So  I placed  a small  present 
on  the  child.  These  things  he  picked  up,  and  threw  at 
me,  and  I could  see  that  a row  was  brewing.  I asked 
the  mate,  who  was  a little  way  off,  how  he  thought 
things  were,  and  he  answered,  “ Bad,  sir ; the  bush  is  full 
of  natives,  and  there  are  arms  everywhere.  They  have 
stolen  all  my  beads  and  hoop-iron.  It  looks  like  mis- 
chief” “Then  let  us  get  away  quietly  to  the  boat.” 
We  walked  away,  and  as  we  reached  the  mangrove  we 
could  see  natives  crouching  in  it  with  spears  and  clubs. 
As  we  made  our  way  through  the  mangrove  the  natives 
gathered  thickly  behind  us,  and  we  realized  that  their 
plan  was  to  do  the  mischief  at  the  boat.  We  were  about 
halfway  down  the  beach,  I ahead,  when  the  mate 
shouted,  “ Look  out,  sir,  there’s  a native  just  behind  you 
ready  to  strike  with  his  club.”  I wheeled  suddenly  round, 
our  eyes  met,  I hurriedly  took  a piece  of  stock  iron  from 
my  satchel,  and  held  it  out  close  to  his  face.  I know 
not  how  it  was,  he  stretched  out  one  hand  to  get  the 
iron,  and  with  my  right  hand  I seized  the  club,  and 


158  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

wrenched  it  from  him,  and  carried  it  as  if  I meant 
work — and  I did ! The  natives,  months  afterwards,  told 
me  that  at  that  moment  I looked  bad.  \^*e  reached  the 
boat,  but  the  crew,  in  their  excitement  as  they  saw  what 
was  taking  place,  had  allowed  it  to  ground.  I held  the 
club  facing  the  natives  whilst  I stood  in  the  water,  and 
the  others  got  the  boat  off.  The  natives  were  undecided, 
and  so  we  got  safel}'  away.  It  seems  our  Suau  friends 
had  been  there,  and  had  challenged  them  to  fight,  show- 
ing the  big  knives,  and  taunting  them  with  the  fact  that 
they  had  no  white  man  to  give  them  such  things.  And 
so  when  they  saw  me  their  feeling  was,  “ Now  the  Suau 
white  man  is  in  our  hands.  Let  us  kill  him,  and  those 
with  him.” 

‘ Our  first  visit  to  Dahuni,  near  Mullens’  Harbour,  or 
rather  what  should  be  called  Mullens’  Harbour^,  was 
full  of  much  native  experience.  Early  in  the  afternoon 
we  steamed  up  to  an  anchorage,  and  soon  after  coming 
to  anchor  we  had  several  hundreds  of  canoes  around  us. 
I had  given  orders  that  no  natives  were  to  be  allowed  on 
board,  and  that  any  curio-buying  must  be  done  over 
the  side  of  the  ship.  I ordered  the  cook  to  put  all  his 
gear  awaj',  so  that  no  one  could  touch  anything,  and 
asked  the  captain  to  see  that  sufficient  steam  was  kept 
up,  at  all  events  until  sunset.  The)^  were  a noisy  crowd, 
and  ugl}"  as  well,  and  some  made  verj’’  significant  insult- 
ing signs;  but  we  wanted  no  trouble,  and  so  pocketed 
the  insults.  I had  frequently  heard  that  this  was  a bad 
place,  and  so  determined,  if  possible,  to  avoid  all  rupture. 

‘ I had  just  gone  down  to  the  cabin  to  have  a bit  of  food, 
when  I heard  a great  commotion  amongst  the  canoes, 
and  the  mate  shouting,  “ Look  out,  all  hands.”  I rushed 

' Mr.  Chalmers  here  refers  to  the  fact  that  the  names  of  many  of  the 
places  he  originally  discovered  and  named  have  since  been  changed. 


^Tamate,  it  is  Peace  ^ 


159 


on  deck,  and  saw  our  Chinese  cook  in  a canoe,  and  very 
excited.  I ordered  him  back,  and  those  on  board  helped 
him  back  to  the  vessel.  “ Now,  you  fool,  what  did  you 
want  to  get  into  a canoe  for  ? Can’t  you  see  the  spears 
all  ready?”  “ He  steal  knife  belong  me.”  “ I told  you  to 
put  all  away,  what  for  you  no  do  it  ? ” “ I keep  knife 
work  ; he  steal  him.”  “ All  right,  you  leave  him  to  me 
now.”  I went  aft,  the  canoes  were  closing  round  us, 
and  spears  and  clubs  were  all  handy.  I called  out, 
“ Every  canoe  go  away.  No  more  canoes  to  come 
alongside  until  knife  is  returned.  Now  go.”  There 
was  some  jeering,  some  defiance,  and  a few  canoes  made 
off  at  great  speed  towards  Dufaure  Island.  The  clearing 
out  was  not  to  my  liking,  so  I asked  the  captain  to  blow 
the  whistle,  and  then  there  was  great  excitement,  and  in 
a few  minutes  not  a canoe  near  us. 

‘ Special  watches  were  set  that  night  with  only  trusted 
men.  I had  my  hammock  slung  under  the  main  boom, 
and  was  fast  asleep,  when  the  captain  shook  the  ham- 
mock, and  called  me  hurriedly.  “ Up,  sir,  quick ! they 
are  going  to  attack  us ; the  war  horns  are  blowing.” 
I sat  up  in  my  hammock  and  listened,  and  then  I said, 
“ Why,  captain,  there  is  no  fighting,  but  they  are 
bringing  in  a pig  from  somewhere  and  rejoicing.  Go  to 
sleep,  and  learn  to  distinguish  the  blowing  of  the  conch - 
shell.”  I went  to  sleep  again,  but  just  after  daybreak 
vas  again  called,  as  a canoe  was  coming  off.  Those  in 
the  canoe  told  us  the  chiet  was  coming,  and  soon  a 
large  canoe  with  many  on  board  drew  near.  There 
were  many  paddlers,  many  sitting  still,  and  one  man 
standing  up.  As  they  neared  I could  see  the  one 
standing  was  holding  something  in  his  stretched-out 
arm,  and  he  was  calling  out,  “ Tamate,  Tamate,  it  is 
peace  and  friendship.”  When  the  canoe  came  along- 


i6o  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

side,  I allowed  the  one  who  was  standing  up,  an  old 
man,  to  step  on  board,  and  then  he  gave  me  the  stolen 
knife,  a pig,  and  a large  quantity  of  native  vegetables. 
I took  the  chief  to  the  cabin,  and  gave  him  a suitable 
present.  He  had  been  to  Dufaure  to  get  the  knife,  and 
had  insisted  on  their  giving  me  a suitable  present ; 
hence  the  pig  and  vegetables.  I explained  to  the  chief 
that  it  was  Sabbath,  and  that  no  canoes  were  to  come 
off,  but  that  I would  land  later. 

‘After sertdce  I landed,  and  got  a few  natives  together, 
but  they  were  verj^  impatient  to  get  au-ay.  It  seemed 
that  early  that  morning  a man  had  died  suddenly,  and 
they  were  mourning.  In  some  parts  of  the  village 
the  people  were  far  from  cordial,  and  I thought  it 
would  be  better  for  me  to  get  on  board.  I went  to 
where  the  dead  man  was  laid  out,  and  offered  a present, 
but  was  not  well  received.  I stood  there  a litde  while, 
and  a young  man  came  hurriedly,  and  threw  himself 
on  the  corpse,  crj’ing  bitterly,  and  saying,  “ O my 
father,  my  father  ! speak  but  one  word  to  me,  one  word 
only ! ^\^ly  have  you  left  me,  O my  father,  my  father  ? ” 
The  corpse  was  in  a sitting  posture,  and  was  decorated 
with  leaves  and  flowers,  and  all  round  were  many  crying 
and  cutting  themselves  with  shell  until  the  blood  flowed 
freely.  A youth,  whom  I found  out  afterwards  to  be 
the  chiefs  son,  came  to  me  and  said  that  I ought  to  go 
on  board,  and  that  as  I had  nobody  from  the  vessel 
with  me,  having  landed  in  a canoe,  he  and  one  other 
would  paddle  me  off.  On  the  way  they  told  me  that 
it  was  not  safe  for  me  to  be  on  shore,  as  the  friends 
were  saying  that  the  blowing  of  the  whisde  the  previous 
day  had  killed  their  friend,  and  they  might  kill  me  in 
payment. 

‘The  following  morning  we  went  up  the  Poroai 


Adventure  at  Dufaure  Island 


i6i 


Lagoon,  but  not  very  far,  as  it  was  full  of  sand  and 
mud-banks.  I had  walked  over  to  it  before  from  the 
seaside.  We  anchored  a very  long  way  off,  and  I 
landed  in  a canoe,  the  mate  accompanying  me.  We 
told  the  paddlers  to  keep  the  canoe  afloat,  and  we 
went  up  to  the  houses,  but  our  reception  was  not  good. 
Spears  and  clubs  were  being  taken  down  and  placed 
handy,  and  after  a little  a young  woman  signed  to  me 
to  get  away.  We  quietly  went  to  the  canoe,  wading 
through  the  water.  I ordered  the  paddlers  to  take  us 
off,  but  they  were  undecided,  so  we  seized  the  paddles, 
and  made  the  canoe  move  through  the  water.  Mean- 
while there  was  a rare  row  going  on  ashore,  and  we 
afterwards  learned  that  a few  opposed  our  being 
murdered.  Hence  the  delay  that  took  place,  and 
now  that  we  had  escaped  they  quarrelled  amongst 
themselves.  The  tide  was  well  out  when  we  got  to  the 
Ellengowan,  and  all  round  the  steamer  it  was  dry. 
About  six  o’clock,  when  the  tide  floated  us,  we  got  away. 

‘ At  Dufaure  Island  I had  a strange  adventure.  On 
springing  ashore  from  the  boat  I called  out  for  Meaudi 
the  chief,  and  a dapper  little  fellow  approached.  We 
looked  at  one  another,  and  became  friends.  The  boat 
had  backed  off  after  landing  Jack,  a Loyalty  Islander, 
who  had  accompanied  me  in  some  of  my  travels.  The 
first  thing  to  do  after  meeting  was  to  exchange  names, 
I becoming  Meaudi,  and  he  becoming  Tamate.  I then 
tied  a print  handkerchief  round  his  neck,  and  gave  him 
a small  present,  a piece  of  hoop-iron  and  a few  beads. 
We  then  marched  on,  having  some  distance  to  go  to 
his  village.  The  crowd  increased,  and  amused  them- 
selves with  relating  to  every  newcomer,  in  very  loud 
voices,  the  landing,  the  meeting,  the  exchange  of  names, 
and  the  presents. 


L 


i62  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

‘At  one  point,  hearing  very  loud  shouting  as  if  in 
anger,  I turned  round,  and  saw  my  man  Jack  armed 
with  a long  spear,  and  showing  oflf.  I asked  him  what 
he  meant,  and  he  replied,  “ I think  some  bad  men  here. 
I get  spear  and  I show  I savee  all  right  about  throw 
spear,  spose  them  want  fight.  I keep  spear  now,  and 
look  out  good  for  you.”  I told  Jack  to  keep  quiet, 
and  not  to  excite  the  people. 

‘ On  arriving  at  the  first  village,  I was  introduced  as 
Meaudi,  and  found  that  I had  numerous  relations,  grand- 
fathers, grandmothers,  fathers,  mothers,  uncles,  aunts, 
brothers,  sisters,  cousins  of  every  degree,  and  each  and 
all  expected  a present.  I was  careful  to  give  the  old 
ladies  a present  of  Turkey’  red  calico,  and  to  call  them 
mother.  I have  always  done  that  when  landing  at  a 
new  place,  and  if  they  have  accepted  the  compliment 
I have  then  felt  perfectly  safe.  At  one  place,  when  the 
men  were  gathering  round  me  with  their  spears  and 
clubs,  the  old  women  collected  near  me,  and  ordered 
the  men  away,  and  they  obeyed. 

‘ From  the  first  village  we  went  to  others,  and  went 
through  the  process  of  friendship  and  presents  a second 
time.  I had  to  send  the  boat  back  to  get  my  satchel 
replenished. 

‘ \^'’e  remained  good  friends  all  through  my  stay  at 
the  east  end.  In  1878  I received  a number  of  teachers 
from  Rarotonga  and  Raiatea,  and  I placed  a man  and 
his  wife  at  Meaudi’s  own  village.  He  and  the  people 
gave  them  a good  reception.  After  staying  some  time 
at  Suau,  and  visiting  Teste  Island  and  Milne  Bay,  I 
went  west,  calling  at  Isuisu,  where  I had  placed  two 
men  and  their  wives  and  one  little  girl.  I called  at 
Dufaure,  and  found  the  teacher  and  his  wife  well,  and 
getting  on  well  with  the  people  and  language.  I pro- 


Teachers  poisoned  at  Isuisu  163 

ceeded  west  to  Port  Moresby.  On  my  return  I called 
at  Dufaure  again,  and  found  both  sick,  and  heard  that 
the  Isuisu  teachers  and  their  wives  were  dead  ; that  they 
had  been  poisoned,  and  that  the  girl  was  at  Suau.  I 
took  the  teacher  and  his  wife  with  me.  They  told  me 
that  Meaudi  had  warned  them  to  keep  their  pans  and 
bucket  in  the  house,  cook  their  own  food,  and  only 
employ  a certain  lad  to  fetch  their  water,  as  he  was 
afraid  that  they  might  be  poisoned.  We  called  at 
Isuisu,  and  found  the  place  nearly  deserted.  I visited 
the  graves,  and  all  I could  get  out  of  the  natives  was 
that  the  teachers  died  in  one  night,  and  that  the  Suau 
teacher  came  and  buried  them.  I said  nothing  as  to 
what  I had  heard.  The  house  was  much  injured,  and 
the  boxes  broken  open  and  their  contents  taken.  I 
proceeded  to  Suau,  where  I was  told  that  the  teachers 
were  poisoned  at  the  instigation  of  an  island  chief.  He 
had  come  down  and  professed  great  friendship,  and 
begged  tomahawks,  hoop-iron,  cloth,  and  beads  from 
them ; but  they  told  him  they  could  not  give  them,  as 
they  were  the  only  things  they  had  with  which  to  buy 
food,  but  that  if  he  brought  food  they  would  buy  it. 
He  was  very  wroth,  and  employed  a sorcerer  to  destroy 
them.  The  teachers,  so  as  to  have  cool  water,  hung  the 
bucket  full  of  water  under  the  house  close  by  the  door, 
and  all  they  had  to  do  when  thirsty  was  to  bend  over  and 
dip  their  pannikin  into  the  bucket.  During  the  night 
the  sorcerer  went  through  his  magic,  and  finally  put 
poison  into  the  bucket.  The  teachers,  their  wives,  and  the 
child  drank,  had  severe  vomiting  and  great  pains,  and 
before  morning  all  died  except  the  child.  News  arrived 
at  Suau  during  the  day,  and  at  once  the  teacher  started 
in  the  whaleboat  with  a Suau  crew.  The  bodies  were  in 
the  house,  the  child  was  being  cared  for  by  an  old  woman.’ 


164  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

The  narrative  contained  in  this  chapter  has  been 
given  almost  entirely  in  the  words  of  the  autobiography. 
But  at  the  point  in  his  story  now  reached  a large  portion 
of  the  manuscript  is  missing.  There  is  consequently  a 
considerable  gap,  extending  to  the  period,  many  years 
later,  when  Chalmers  had  taken  over  the  work  of  the 
Fly  River  Mission.  But  fortunately,  from  the  5’ear  1878 
there  is  a considerable  mass  of  letters,  both  private  and 
official,  in  existence,  and  also  a long  series  of  reports. 
From  these  it  has  been  possible  to  construct  a continuous 
narrative  of  his  work,  and  also  to  glean  many  of  his 
thoughts  upon  men  and  affairs. 

In  1878  Chalmers  and  ]\Iacfarlane  were  the  only 
European  missionaries  of  the  Society  in  New  Guinea, 
and  in  1879  the  latter  returned  to  England  on  furlough. 
W.  G.  Lawes  had  sailed  for  England  in  December,  1877. 
The  three  5-ears  he  had  passed  in  and  around  Port 
Moresb}'  had  been  a season  of  great  trial  to  his  wife, 
himself,  and  the  native  teachers.  Depressed  b}-  fever 
and  b)'  the  difficulties  of  the  work,  he  had  expressed  some 
doubt  about  his  returning  to  New  Guinea,  but  in  April. 
1881,  he  and  his  famih-  resumed  work  at  Port  Moresb5'. 
Since  that  date  he  and  his  wife  have  given  long  5'ears  of 
devoted  sendee  to  the  mission.  He  became  the  great 
literar}'  and  educational  missionar}^  and  Chalmers  the 
great  pioneer  in  opening  up  new  districts. 

In  a letter  dated  Januar\'  23,  1878,  Chalmers  referred 
to  his  old  friend  and  colleague,  and  to  the  depression 
caused  b}’  fever.  ‘ Lawes,’  he  wrote,  ‘ is  a splendid 
fellow,  and  a first-class  missionar}',  and  is  well  liked  b}- 
the  people.  He  must  have  been  writing  to  5'ou  as  to 
me  when  ill  with  fever,  and  when  dark  dense  clouds 
alone  were  seen.  I remember  Mrs.  Geddie  telling  me 
she  never  allowed  Dr.  Geddie's  letters  written  by  him 


Teachers^  Lack  of  Stamina  165 

when  down  with  fever  to  be  sent,  and  that  frequently,  if 
they  had  not  been  burnt,  when  the  doctor  had  read 
them  after  recovery  he  used  to  say,  “ But  that  this  is  my 
own  handwriting,  I would  not  have  believed  I could  ever 
have  written  such  things.”  ’ 

It  is  difficult  for  those  who  have  never  passed  through 
the  experience  to  form  even  an  approximate  conception 
of  what  a reference  hke  the  above  implies.  Climatic 
influences  in  an  island  like  New  Guinea  are  a deadly  foe 
to  missionary  enterprise.  It  is  hard  enough  when  health 
is  good  to  keep  bright  and  strong  and  hopeful. 
Nothing  but  a large  share  of  the  grace  of  God  and 
a clear  realization  of  His  sustaining  Presence  can  keep 
faith  bright  and  active  under  repeated  attacks  of  fever. 
This  is  one  reason  why  so  many  native  teachers  have 
died  in  New  Guinea.  When  repeated  attacks  of  fever 
seized  them  they  soon  gave  up  even  the  wish  to  recover, 
and  hence  often  died  when,  could  they  have  been  a little 
stimiflated  and  encouraged,  they  would  have  recovered. 
Even  Chalmers  at  times  found  it  very  hard  to  conquer 
the  awful  weakness  and  depression  caused  by  this 
vigilant  foe,  ever  lurking  by,  ready  to  attack  him  when 
least  equal  to  resistance. 

During  1878  Chalmers  and  his  heroic  wife  were  alone 
on  the  mainland  of  New  Guinea,  Macfarlane’s  head- 
quarters being  on  Murray  Island  in  the  Torres  Straits. 
On  January  24  Chalmers  wrote,  ‘ We  are  tolerably  well. 
I have  got  much  lighter  during  the  last  few  weeks,  but 
am  so  much  better  that  I shall  soon  pick  up  again.  We 
have  begun  speaking  of  God’s  love  to  the  people  in 
very  broken  language,  yet  I hope  sufficiently  well  to 
make  them  think  a little.  The  people  here  are  dreadful 
cannibals.  Their  finest  decorations  are  human  jawbones 
and  other  bones,  and  sometimes  the  wretches  appear 


i66  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

with  pieces  of  human  flesh  dangling  from  their  arms. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  many  of  them  had  hoped  to 
secure  our  bodies  for  a feast,  ^^"e  are  warned  even  now 
not  to  wander  too  far  away  from  the  house.  The  hopes 
of  the  mission  are  bright,  and  assuredly  we  shall  not  be 
forsaken.’ 

In  New  Guinea,  even  from  the  first,  Chalmers  had 
no  idea  of  limiting  his  care  and  labour  to  one  station 
or  district.  He  was  soon  to  verifo  the  almost  prophetic 
sentence  written  of  him  by  Wyatt  Gill  in  1877,  ‘ It  may 
be  he  is  the  Livingstone  of  New  Guinea.’  He  had 
secured  a foothold,  one  entirely  after  his  own  heart,  and 
in  the  verv*  centre  of  savagery"  and  cannibalism.  But 
he  had  hardly  obtained  a shelter  for  his  wife  and  himself 
ere  he  was  awa)',  exploring  the  coast-line,  with  a keen 
eye  for  suitable  districts  in  which  to  station  native 
teachers. 

In  March,  1878,  Chalmers  wrote  to  Dr.  ^Mullens, 
‘ I have  made  m3"  first  trip  in  the  EUengowan,  and  find 
her  very  comfortable,  and  a good  sea  boat.  \Ye  left 
Suau  on  Februar}"  5 for  Port  Moresb}*,  Mrs.  Chalmers 
remaining  with  the  teachers.  There  was  realh*  no 
accommodation  on  board  for  her,  and  she  thought  it 
was  not  well  for  us  both  to  leave  the  teachers  at  Suau 
so  soon  after  the  disturbances,  and  in  the  unhealth3' 
season.  The  natives  of  the  place  were  highh"  pleased 
with  her  remaining,  and  promised  to  treat  her  kindl3^ 
The}-  saw  we  had  confidence  in  their  friendship. 

‘We  arrived  at  Port  JMoresb}"  on  Februaiy-  7,  and 
found  all  well.  Ruaioka  was  pleased  to  see  me,  as  the}^ 
feared  we  had  all  been  killed  and  eaten.  I was  pleased 
with  the  progress  which  had  been  made  in  the  school. 
WTen  we  were  there  in  October  none  could  read,  and 
now  five  stood  up  and  read  well.  I had  a visit  from  aU 


Heroism  of  Mrs.  Chalmers  167 

the  teachers  from  Kerepunu  to  Boera.  They  had  all  been 
afraid  that  they  would  never  see  us  again.  The  churches 
at  Kaile,  Hula,  and  Kerepunu  are  all  finished.  The 
book  translated  by  the  Kerepunu  teacher  Anederea, 
and  revised  by  Mr.  Lawes,  is  being  printed  in  Sydney. 
I think  when  a teacher  does  translate  a book  it  would 
be  well  to  give  him  credit  lor  it.  Poor  fellows  ! They 
have  to  bear  the  brunt  of  the  fight,  and  we,  the  white 
missionaries,  follow  in  and  get  the  bulk  of  the  credit. 
We  are  the  men  who  make  peace,  not  so  much  these 
humble  teachers,  and  yet  they  have  smoothed  the  way 
and  have  spoken  of  us  to  the  heathen.  It  is  we  who 
reduce  the  language  to  writing  and  translate  books,  and 
yet  often  they  have  taught  us  and  helped  us,  and  have 
first  written  the  language  and  first  been  able  to  speak 
in  it  to  the  people  ! ’ 

From  Port  Moresby  Chalmers  went  on  to  Murray 
Island,  and  thence  to  Thursday  Island  and  Cooktown. 
From  Cooktown,  after  coaling  and  refitting,  the  Ellen- 
gowan  returned  to  South  Cape. 

‘ Mrs.  Chalmers  was  well,  and  had  been  treated 
right  kindly  by  the  savages,  they  bringing  her  food, 
and  telling  her  that  she  must  eat  plenty,  so  that  when 
Tamate  returned  she  might  be  looking  well  and  strong. 
Mrs.  Chalmers  says  it  is  well  she  remained,  as  the 
natives  saw  we  had  confidence  in  them,  and  the  day 
following  our  departure  they  were  saying  amongst 
themselves,  “ They  trust  us ; we  must  treat  them 
kindly.  They  cannot  mean  us  harm,  or  Tamate  would 
not  have  left  his  wife  behind.”  ’ 

It  would  be  difiicult  in  the  splendid  record  of  nine- 
teenth-century missions  to  find  a more  courageous  and 
self-denying  action  than  this  consent  of  Mrs.  Chalmers  to 
remain  alone  amid  a horde  of  cannibals  for  the  sake  of 


i68  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

Christ’s  work  among  them,  and  for  the  benefit  of  her 
Rarotongan  fellow  workers.  ^Mien  her  husband  left 
her  there  was  no  possibility  of  receiving  any  tidings 
of  him  until  he  himself  brought  back  the  tale  of  his 
wanderings.  She  knew  him  well  enough  to  realize 
that  places  of  danger  attracted  rather  than  repelled  him, 
and  that  the  worse  the  reputation  possessed  by  any 
tribe  or  place  the  more  likely  he  was  to  visit  it.  They 
had  only  a few  weeks  before  passed  through  experi- 
ences which  might  well  have  unnerv'ed  the  strongest. 
Chalmers  came  to  know  afterwards,  from  one  of  the 
chiefs,  that  again  and  again  the  murder  of  the  whole 
missionary  party  had  been  determined,  and  that  those 
appointed  to  do  the  deed  had  come  once  and  again  to 
the  low  fence  which  surrounded  the  rough  mission  home. 
They  had  only  to  step  over  it  and  rush  in  upon  and 
murder  the  unarmed  man  and  his  wife.  Had  they  done 
this  they  would  have  been  hailed  as  heroes  by  local 
Suau  opinion.  But  the  same  chief  told  Chalmers  that 
at  the  low  fence  they  were  restrained  by  some  mysteri- 
ous thing  which  held  them  back.  WTat  was  it  ? To 
the  devout  mind  there  can  be  no  doubt.  It  was  the 
restraining  Hand  of  that  God  and  Father  in  whom  both 
His  servants  so  firmly  trusted,  at  whose  call  they  had 
come  to  Suau,  and  for  whose  sake  they  were  willing  to 
lay  down  their  lives. 

Yet  when  we  recall  that  Mrs.  Chalmers  allowed  her 
husband  at  the  call  of  duty  to  go  from  her,  leaving 
her  at  the  mercy  of  savages  who  were  only  just 
beginning  to  know  them  and  their  ways ; when  we 
remember  that  her  only  helpers  were  two  or  three 
Rarotongan  teachers  and  their  wives ; that  all  her 
possessions  were  eagerly  coveted  by  her  savage  neigh- 
bours, and  that  the  bodies  of  herself  and  the  Rarotongan 


A Pathetic  Diary  169 

teachers  would  have  been  considered  choice  dainties 
for  a great  cannibal  feast,  we  marvel  at  her  courage,  at 
her  faith,  at  the  quiet  heroism  which  led  her  to  endure 
the  almost  unendurable  because  she  did  not  think  it 
right  to  leave  the  weaker  teachers  to  bear  the  strain 
alone,  and  because  she  thought  that  if  she  accompanied 
her  husband  the  absence  of  both  would  injure  the  work 
so  well  and  so  hopefully  begun. 

But  though  her  courage  and  her  faith  rose  supreme, 
the  strain  upon  her  health  was  great.  Probably  some 
inherent  weakness  in  her  constitution  would  never  have 
permitted  her  long  to  endure  the  life  in  New  Guinea. 
And  there  can  hardly  be  a doubt  that  the  nervous  excite- 
ment of  the  thrilling  scenes  through  which  she  had 
passed  during  the  last  three  months,  and  the  intense 
strain  which  she  had  to  bear  through  her  weeks  of 
loneliness,  rendered  her  more  susceptible  to  fever,  and 
hastened  the  end.  Neither  she  nor  her  husband  yet 
seemed  to  have  realized  how  serious  her  state  of  health 
was ; and  when  one  remembers  how  ill-health  depresses, 
and  tends  to  weaken  courage,  we  find  only  more  reason 
to  wonder  that  she  was  able  to  act  as  she  did.  There 
is  extant  a pathetic  document,  a journal  written  in  her 
own  hand  of  what  took  place  day  by  day,  during  those 
lonely  weeks  at  Suau.  We  give  some  extracts,  that  the 
reader  may  picture  her  in  this  time  of  hard  duty. 

‘ Saturday,  February  9.  A fine  day,  but  the  air  is 
heavy,  not  nearly  so  light  and  dry  as  the  last  three 
days.  Toudi  and  wife  brought  me  to-day  four  bread- 
fruit and  a few  red  bananas.  I gave  him  some  fishhooks 
before  he  left;  he  asked  for  them.  My  leg  is  very 
much  easier  to-day.  To-day  a strong  fence  is  put 
round  a small  enclosure  under  the  tree  at  the  back  for 
our  pigs,  and  to  be  ready  for  those  from  Port  Moresby. 


ijo  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

All  well,  except  Tamarua’s  ^ eyes  are  rather  sore.  \Ye 
have  not  had  one  shower  since  you  left,  dear,  but  I think 
we  will  soon  have  rain.  The  outline  of  the  hills  alonsf 
the  coast  has  been  remarkably  clear  to-day,  and  it  is 
now  ver}-  close  and  sultry.  I feel  ver>'  feverish,  and  all 
my  bones  ache  terribly.  I wish,  my  husband,  that  you 
were  back  again,  but  I am  sure,  dear,  that  we  have  done 
a good  stroke,  and  made  a good  impression  by  my 
remaining  here.  I think  the  people  see  and  feel  that 
you  have  confidence  in  them,  or  you  would  not  have 
left  me  here  alone.  At  any  rate  all  seem  verj-  much 
pleased  at  my  staying,  and  they  are  not  at  all  trouble- 
some. 

‘ I told  Tamarua  to  be  on  the  outlook  for  strangers, 
who  should  get  flour  or  a present,  and  either  tell  me 
or  give  it  to  them.  He  has  done  so,  but  as  yet  none 
of  any  importance  have  called  since  3’ou  left.  How 
I wish  I knew  your  whereabouts  this  Saturday  night, 
dear ! Are  you  near  Murray  Island,  or  still  at  Port 
Moresby?  !May  our  God  bless  and  keep  you  always, 
dearest ! I do  hope  }’Ou  are  well. 

‘ Friday,  February'  15.  Manuegu  brought  me  some 
bananas  before  I was  up.  I did  not  see  him.  He  left 
them  for  me.  Pi  much  better  to-day.  Tamarua  com- 
plains. His  wife  came  for  medicine  for  him.  I gave 
camphor.  The  wind  is  rising.  Clear  night,  no  rain 
yet  since  my  dear  husband  left  me.  How  long  ago  it 
seems,  and  how  very  much  I miss  him  ! I keep  as  busy 
as  I can,  but  still  the  time  seems  long,  and  I feel  very' 
lonely.  Yesterday  and  to-day  Tamarua  and  Ngativaro 
have  been  busy  with  the  gates. 

‘ Sabbath,  February'  1 7.  Ngativaro  and  Pi  took  the 
ser\'ices.  Both  seem  better  to-day.  Tamarua  is  still 
* One  of  the  Rarotongan  teachers. 


171 


A Pathetic  Diary 

ill.  Head  aching  and  very  feverish.  I gave  him  aconite, 
and  to-niofht  he  seems  a little  better.  This  has  been  an 
intensely  hot  day.  A great  deal  of  thunder,  no  rain 
since  you  left  us.  A good  shower  would  lighten  the 
air.  It  is  so  heavy  and  sultry  to-night.  I have  felt  very 
ill  all  this  warm  close  day,  and  oh,  how  much  I miss  my 
James,  and  wish  I knew  where  he  spent  this  Sabbath 
day ! May  God  bless  and  keep  us  ! 

‘Monday,  February  i8.  As  I was  getting  ready  for 
bed  last  night,  quite  a commotion  got  up  outside.  The 
shell  was  blown,  old  Kirikeu  shouting  as  loud  as  he 
could,  and  men  and  women  were  running  and  screaming. 
The  noise  wakened  the  teachers.  Ngativaro  went  to  see 
the  cause.  It  was  an  eclipse  of  the  moon,  and  a very 
fine  one ; the  natives  believe  that  many  of  them  are  to 
die  in  consequence  of  it,  hence  the  excitement.  Another 
intensely  hot  day.  Great  deal  of  thunder  and  lightning, 
air  very  close  and  sultry,  no  rain.  I should  like  to  hear 
it  pour  down. 

‘ Tuesday,  February  26.  Tamarua  a little  better. 
I dosed  and  fed  him  same  as  yesterday.  Tamarua 
Vaine  ill.  I was  obliged  to  keep  on  the  bed  most  of  the 
day.  None  of  us  very  bright.  It  was  very  sultry  aU 
day,  with  constant  thunder.  About  four  in  the  afternoon 
heavy  rain  fell,  which  relieved  us  all.  With  the  exception 
of  a very  little  on  Friday,  this  is  the  first  rain  we  have 
had  since  you,  my  dear  husband,  left  us.  Three  long 
weeks  this  morning,  dear,  since  you  left  me.  When 
shall  I see  you  back  ? I do  hope  very  soon. 

‘ Thursday,  March  6.  What  a terrible  disappointment 
we  have  had  to-night ! About  five,  great  excitement. 
A vessel  (not  a canoe)  close  up  to  us.  It  was  thick,  and 
raining  fast,  so  that  we  could  not  see  far  off.  Of  course 
all  thought  it  was  the  Ellengowan,  there  could  be  no 


1J2  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

two  thoughts  on  the  subject.  The  flag  was  hoisted,  the 
gate  unlocked,  and  I got  dr}'  clothes  all  ready.  WTien 
all  ^vas  done  the  vessel  was  close  to  us,  and  oh,  how 
disappointed  we  were  to  see  a small  vessel  instead  of 
the  EUengowan  ! It  is  !Mr.  Goldie’s.  He  came  ashore 
at  once  and  had  tea. 

‘ Thursday,  March  14.  This  has  been  a dark,  squally 
day.  Verv',  veiy  drear}' ; rain,  wind,  and  thunder  in  the 
morning  and  forenoon.  Not  much  rain  in  the  afternoon, 
but  heavy  squalls  and  veiy'  cloudy.  MTiat  a stormy 
night ! I wonder  where  my  husband  is.  I cannot  help 
feeling  a Little  anxious  about  him.  God  grant  he  is 
safe  and  well ! ’ 

The  extract  just  quoted  concludes  the  journah  Mr. 
Chalmers  returned  from  Cooktown  about  ^larch  1 5,  and 
we  can  imagine  what  the  meeting  must  have  been  after 
six  weeks  of  such  strain.  His  thoughts  had  often  been 
with  the  lonely  wife,  and  in  the  joy  of  reunion  the  darker 
side  of  the  experience  was  soon  forgotten.  The  eflfect 
upon  the  natives  was  excellent,  as  Mrs.  Chalmers  had 
foreseen.  They  responded  to  her  confidence  in  them. 
They  brought  her  constant  supphes  of  food,  always 
impressing  upon  her,  however,  that  she  must  be  sure 
to  report  their  goodness  to  Tamate  when  he  returned. 
They  knew  that  local  custom  rendered  it  imperative  that 
he  should  make  them  return  presents,  and  this,  of  course, 
he  did.  There  was  rejoicing  in  many  a native  hut,  as 
well  as  in  the  missionar}’’s  home,  when  Tamate  re- 
turned. 

The  voyage  which  had  separated  husband  and  wife 
was  one  of  business.  Chalmers  felt  it  needful  to  visit 
Port  Moresby  and  the  stations  thereabout,  to  see  how 
the  native  teachers  were  faring.  Since  Mr.  Lawes’ 
departure  they  had  been  without  superintendence,  and 


173 


The  Teacher,  Pi 

experience  shows  that  the  South  Sea  teachers,  as 
a rule,  do  well  only  if  kept  in  frequent  touch  with 
the  European  missionary.  The  man  Pi,  referred  to  in 
Mrs.  Chalmers’s  journal,  was  a native  teacher  quite  above 
the  average,  and  Chalmers  himself  has  left  on  record 
a sketch  of  him  that  enables  us  to  understand  better 
how  he  could  have  left  his  wife  alone  at  Suau. 

‘ Pi  was  the  first  of  the  Rarotongan  boys  brought  up 
under  my  care  who  desired  to  become  a teacher.  He 
was  a quiet,  good  boy,  and  although  not  over  quick, 
was  a good  plodder,  and  made  progress.  His  father, 
Paniani,  was  a queer  mixture,  a man  full  of  good 
intentions,  but  weak,  and  ever  stepping  forward,  only 
to  drift  back  again.  He  gave  his  son  gladly  to  the 
work  of  Christ,  and  he  ever  spoke  of  his  son,  who 
was  for  Christ’s  sake  preparing  for  foreign  work,  as 
an  honour  to  his  father.  After  some  years  Pi  wished 
to  prepare  for  New  Guinea.  He  married  a quiet, 
intelligent  girl,  and  they  both  lived  happily  with  us. 
After  four  years  of  student  life  he  and  his  wife  were 
sent  to  New  Guinea.  No  one  could  ever  say  an  evil 
word  of  either  of  them.  During  all  the  years  Pi  was 
with  us  I never  once  heard  his  name  connected  with 
any  evil. 

‘ He  stayed  with  us  for  some  time  at  Suau,  and  then 
I placed  him  at  the  Leocadie.  But  in  a short  time 
so  many  teachers  died  that  I was  forced  to  bring  Pi 
back  to  take  charge  of  Suau,  and  right  well  he  did 
his  work.  There  he  lost  his  wife,  and  after  some  time 
he  married  the  widow  of  one  of  our  teachers,  and  she 
again  left  a widower,  and  for  a long 
time  simply  gave  himself  to  his  work.  In  1885  he 
married  the  widow  of  one  of  the  teachers  murdered 
at  Kalo,  but  she  only  lived  a short  time,  and  in  1887, 


174  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

when  on  a visit  to  Port  Moresby,  Pi  died.  He  was 
greatly  mourned  by  the  natives  of  the  east  end  of 
New  Guinea,  for  whose  uplifting  he  had  worked  hard 
during  ten  years.  He  was  quiet  and  lovable,  and  yet 
very  firm.  These  were  qualities  not  found  in  the 
New  Guinea  savages,  yet  thoroughly  appreciated  by 
them. 

‘ In  1878,  at  Suau,  I translated  a few  hymns  and  two 
chapters  of  Mark’s  Gospel.  For  a long  while  these  were 
all  the  literature  we  had  to  help  us  in  our  work.  Pi 
gained  a wonderfully  correct  knowledge  of  the  language, 
and  I urged  him  to  translate  the  Gospel  of  Mark  and  to 
get  the  assistance  of  the  most  suitable  natives.  After 
a long  time  he  finished  the  Gospel,  revised,  and  re- 
revised it,  and  then,  accompanied  by  the  natives  who 
had  helped  him,  brought  the  manuscript  to  me  at  Port 
Moresby,  and  we  together  again  revised  it,  and  then  sent 
it  to  Sydney,  where  it  was  printed.  The  New  Guinea 
Mission  could  do  with  many  more  men  like  Pi.’ 

Having  established  the  mission  at  Suau  on  a sound 
footing,  and  the  heroism  of  Mrs.  Chalmers  having 
greatly  strengthened  the  hold  upon  native  interest  and 
sympathy,  Chalmers  felt  that  the  station  could  now  be 
left  for  a time  entirely  in  the  charge  of  Pi,  and  of 
the  other  Rarotongan  teachers.  He  had  long  been 
eager  thoroughly  to  explore  the  coast-line  from  Suau 
to  Port  Moresby.  Hence,  on  May  24,  this  time  taking 
Mrs.  Chalmers  with  him,  he  started  in  the  Ellengowan 
to  see  as  much  as  possible  of  a large  portion  of  the 
New  Guinea  coast,  never  before  visited  by  a white 
man.  It  is  suflBcient  for  our  purpose  to  give  the 
brief  statement  in  which  Chalmers  summed  up  the  chief 
results  of  this,  the  first  of  his  many  lengthy  exploring 
expeditions. 


175 


First  Exploration  Trip 

‘I  went  inland  from  Meikle  Bay  to  Orangerie  Bay, 
I explored  inland  at  the  back  of  Kerepunu,  where 
no  man  had  ever  been  before,  and  I visited  the  dis- 
tricts of  Animarupu  and  Kuaipo.  I have  walked  all 
along  the  coast  in  the  bay  from  Keppel  Point  to  the 
point  of  Macfarlane  Harbour,  and  found  two  of  the 
most  populated  districts  yet  known  in  New  Guinea 
I have  been  ashore,  during  the  voyage,  at  105  villages 
— at  most  of  them  a white  man  had  never  before  been 
seen — and  I had  communication  in  all  with  nearly  200 
villages.  We  have  discovered  and  named  several  bays, 
harbours,  rivers,  and  islands.  We  have  had  commu- 
nication and  mixed  with  tribes  hitherto  looked  upon 
as  fierce  savages.  We  have  had,  on  more  than  one 
occasion,  to  leave  suddenly  in  order  to  save  our  lives. 
I am  never  armed,  and  frequently  not  an  arm  was 
carried  in  our  party.  We  have  been  truly  watched 
over  by  Him,  whose  we  are  and  whom  we  serve. 
Mrs.  Chalmers  has  accompanied  us  throughout^.’ 

Chalmers  did  not  remain  long  at  Suau  after  his  return 
from  the  trip  just  described.  To  understand  his  position 
at  this  time  the  fact  must  be  kept  in  mind  that  he 
expected  almost  every  month  to  visit  England  on 
furlough  for  rest  and  change,  after  nearly  twelve  years’ 
service  in  the  tropics,  and  in  order  to  confer  with  the 
Directors  as  to  the  future  conduct  of  the  mission.  Had 
Lawes  been  well  enough  to  continue  at  Port  Moresby 
he  would  probably  have  returned  to  England  in  1877  or 
1878.  But  Lawes  had  gone  home,  Macfarlane  was  con- 
templating doing  so,  and  Chalmers  felt  that  until  a 
colleague  had  been  sent  out  to  relieve  him  the  risks 
involved  in  leaving  so  many  South  Sea  Island  teachers 
alone  in  New  Guinea  were  too  great  to  be  faced. 

' See  Work  and  Adventure  in  New  Guinea,  chap.  iL 


ij6  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

Even  at  this  early  stage  divergent  views  as  to  the 
proper  working  of  the  mission  had  appeared.  Mac- 
farlane,  not  unnaturally,  was  wedded  to  his  view  that 
the  mainland  was  for  the  most  part  too  unhealthy  for 
the  permanent  headquarters  of  the  mission.  He  held 
that  these  should  be  at  Murray  Island,  that  thither 
promising  natives  should  be  brought  from  different 
parts  of  New  Guinea,  and  that  these  should,  when 
properly  trained  and  evangehzed,  become  the  evangehsts 
of  their  own  dark  land.  He  also  hoped  Murray  Island 
might  prove  a sanatorium  for  both  the  native  teachers 
and  the  European  missionaries.  But  Macfarlane  did 
not  stay  in  the  Gulf  Mission  long  enough  to  prove 
whether  this  scheme  could  be  successfully  worked  or 
noL  And  in  the  end  the  view  of  Chalmers  and  Lawes 
prevailed,  and  many  centres  of  work,  with  European 
missionaries  at  their  head,  were  gradually  established  on 
the  mainland. 

In  May,  1878,  in  order  to  see  for  himself  exactly 
how  matters  stood  in  the  Gulf  Mission,  Chahners  visited 
the  stations  in  Torres  Straits,  the  islands  Mabuiag, 
Dauan,  and  Saibai.  Of  the  last-named  he  wrote, 
June  5,  1878,  ‘Everywhere  you  look  there  is  nothing 
but  low  sickly-looking  land  to  be  seen.  It  would  be 
a pity  to  forsake  these  people  now,  and  we  can  only 
hope  that  the  work  carried  on  by  Mr.  Macfarlane  will 
be  so  blessed,  that  from  amongst  those  brought  to 
Murray  Island  some  will  be  found  who  wiU  become 
teachers  to  their  own  people,  and  to  the  people  on 
the  mainland. 

‘ If  Mr.  Macfarlane  is  able  to  carry  out  his  present 
plan  of  an  Institution,  it  will  be  a great  thing,  and, 
I believe,  the  life  of  this  branch  of  the  mission.  There 
are  many  difficulties,  arising  from  difference  in  language 


Visit  to  Boera 


177 


and  race,  which  will  take  a long  time  to  overcome, 
but  overcome  they  will  be.  I hope,  before  visiting 
England,  to  see  aU  the  country  between  Saibai  and 
Yule  Island,  and  so  be  able  to  give  my  opinion  as 
to  its  suitability  or  non-suitability  for  missionaries. 
Mrs.  Chalmers  has  had  fever  very  badly,  and  is  stiU 
suffering.  If  she  does  not  get  better  soon,  I shall  send 
her  to  Sydney.’ 

Towards  the  end  of  June,  Chalmers  was  back  at 
Suau.  Thence  he  forwarded  to  the  Directors  letters 
from  the  teachers,  ‘ that  you  may  see,’  as  he  charac- 
teristically remarks,  ‘ aU  is  well  down  at  our  end. 
Do  not  fear,  we  shall  not  let  go  our  hold,  God 
helping  us.  The  devil  will  be  sure  to  bother  us,  but 
his  powers  must  yield,  and  conquered  he  will  be.’ 

From  the  correspondence  of  this  period  we  select 
one  or  two  typical  examples.  The  first,  a letter  dated 
August  23,  1878,  illustrates  the  methods  adopted  when 
placing  teachers  at  new  stations,  and  the  risks  involved, 
due,  not  unfrequently,  to  either  the  ignorant  or  the 
wicked  action  of  white  men. 

‘We  arrived  at  Boera  on  July  15.  Mr.  Chester, 
police  magistrate  at  Somerset,  accompanied  us.  In  the 
evening  we  obtained  from  Piri  and  the  natives  much 
valuable  information  about  the  Gulf,  and  the  character 
of  the  natives  along  the  coast  as  far  as  the  Aird  River. 
From  aU  we  learned  I beUeve  the  Gulf  could  be  worked 
from  Port  Moresby  or  Kerepunu  easier  than  from  any 
other  part.  Having  fiUed  up  with  wood,  we  took  Piri 
and  his  wife  on  with  us  for  a change,  and  left  for  Port 
Moresby  on  July  16,  where  we  arrived  the  same  after- 
noon. Three  of  the  diggers  had  died,  many  were  iU, 
and  at  Port  Moresby ; others  were  at  the  camp  at  the 
Laloki,  and  only  a few  were  out  prospecting.  The 


178  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

diggers  speak  in  the  verj^  highest  terms  of  Ruatoka, 
one  sa\  ing,  “ Yes,  sir,  we  believe  that  man  to  be  a 
thorough  Christian.” 

‘ We  left  Port  Moresby  on  July  23,  and  Mr.  Chester 
and  I landed  at  Hula  on  July  24.  We  walked  the 
iollowing  morning  fifteen  miles  to  Kerepunu,  passing 
through  Kamari  and  Kalo  and  crossing  the  Kemp 
M’elch  River.  I arranged  with  the  chief  of  Kalo  to 
have  ^Materua  placed  there.  On  our  arrival  at  Kerepunu 
we  found  Tamarua,  the  teacher  we  had  left  there,  very 
ill,  and  not  likely  to  live.  On  July  29,  Mr.  Macfarlane 
and  I placed  ^Materua  at  Kalo.  His  reception  was  good. 

‘ Some  days  before  we  returned  from  the  west  to 
Kerepunu,  the  people  of  one  of  the  villages  near  to 
Keppel  Point  attacked  a 5ec/ie  de  mer  station  about  six 
miles  from  Kerepunu.  They  threw  several  spears,  and 
wounded  one  man  very  seriously.  On  the  foreigners 
using  tkeir  rifles  they  rushed  to  their  canoes,  and  made 
off.  I was  truly  sorry  for  this,  as  I hoped,  notwith- 
standing the  attack  they  had  determined  to  make  on 
us  at  Aroma  in  May  last,  to  have  left  teachers  with  them 
this  year.  Mhth  some  difficulty  I persuaded  an  elderly 
man  of  Kerepunu  to  go  to  Maopa  and  tell  my  friend 
Koapena  to  come  and  see  me. 

‘ We  all  feared  the  latter  would  be  afraid  to  come  in, 
but  were  agreeably  surprised  on  our  return  from  Kalo 
to  find  Koapena,  and  another  chief,  with  several  youths, 
awaiting  us.  He  came  to  the  mission  house,  and  after 
some  conversation  we  cemented  our  friendship  in  the 
strongest  manner.  I gave  him  a tomahawk,  and  he  took 
from  his  leg  a bunch  of  white  shells  fastened  together 
with  human  hair  and  tied  them  on  my  arm.  He  pressed 
on  me  to  return  to  Maopa,  and  asked  for  teachers  who 
could  live  with  them  as  Anederea  does  at  Kerepunu. 


179 


Fight  near  Kerepunu 

‘ H.M.S.  Sappho  being  in  harbour,  the  captain  invited 
Koapena,  the  other  chief,  Anederea  and  myself,  on  board. 
Through  the  teacher  the  captain  examined  the  chiefs, 
and  found  that  the  beginning  of  the  trouble  with  the 
white  men  arose  from  a misunderstanding  as  to  the 
price  of  fish.  A boat  belonging  to  the  station  was  on 
the  reef  fishing,  and  a canoe  came  alongside  wishing 
to  sell  beche  de  mer.  The  foreigners  wished  to  buy  all 
that  was  offered  at  once,  the  natives  wished  to  sell  it  in 
lots,  and  were  asking  what  was  considered  too  high 
a price.  Words  passed,  the  canoe  was  shoved  off  by 
those  on  the  boat,  a boy  in  the  canoe  threw  a stone  and 
struck  the  boat,  the  foreigners  seized  their  rifles,  fired 
three  shots,  and  wounded  one  man  in  the  arm.  When 
they  got  ashore  the  natives  told  all  that  had  passed  to 
their  friends,  and  they  arranged  to  attack  the  station 
that  afternoon.  Koapena,  hearing  of  their  intentions, 
prevented  them  from  carrying  them  out.  A few  days 
after  they  got  into  their  canoes,  saying  they  were  going 
to  trade  with  the  foreigners,  went  down,  and  attacked 
them.  Koapena  denied,  as  chief,  having  had  anything 
to  do  with  the  attack  ; it  was  only  the  young  swells,  he 
said,  and  the  foreigners  would  be  quite  safe  to  return. 

‘ At  present  our  eastern  teachers  are  too  far  apart ; 
and  the  eastern  end  being  as  unhealthy  as  the  western, 
I propose  leaving  South  Cape  and  settling  down  some- 
where in  the  known  healthy  locality  of  Hula,  Kerepunu, 
or  Maopa. 

‘ By  eleven  p.m.  we  arrived  at  Kerepunu  to  find  sorrow 
established  in  the  mission  house,  Tamarua  having  died 
about  four  p.m.  He  told  them  not  to  weep,  as  he  was 
going  home.  Christ  was  near,  he  said,  and  his  end 
was  peace.  He  hoped  just  to  see  me  once  more  before 
he  left,  and  wished  for  our  return.  On  the  day  following 

M 2 


i8o  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

we  buried  him  on  the  sand-hill  at  the  back  of  the  villao-e. 

o 

Anederea’s  influence  is  so  great  with  the  people  that 
there  was  no  difliculty  in  securing  a piece  of  ground 
for  burial. 

‘We  left  Kerepunu  on  August  3,  and  anchored  first 
at  Grange  Island  for  wood.  We  anchored  next  in  ]\Iayri 
Bay.  The  natives  would  not  allow  us  to  ascend  the  hills 
to  their  villages,  but  received  us  kindly  on  the  beach, 
and  helped  us  to  collect  plants.  Thence  we  went  to 
Dufaure  Island,  and  on  to  Port  Dudfield.  The  natives 
were  pleased  at  our  returning  to  them,  and  were  greatly 
delighted  with  the  hoop-iron  we  gave  them.  We  left 
the  following  morning,  and  after  anchoring  for  an  hour 
in  Meikle  Bay  proceeded  to  South  Cape,  anchoring 
there  about  three  p.m.  We  found  aU  well.  The  natives 
were  glad  to  see  us.  They  had  heard  that  I had  been 
killed  at  Aroma,  and  they  said  that  their  sorrow  at  these 
tidings  was  great. 

‘ On  the  Monday  after  our  arrival,  just  after  dark,  we 
heard  a great  noise,  and  went  out  to  see  what  was  up.  The 
men  had  determined  to  send  away  all  the  women,  or  to 
kill  them,  as  they  were  an  abominable  lot.  It  seems 
that  a woman  of  a village  close  by,  whose  husband  died 
a few  days  before,  had  dug  up  the  body,  and  made  a 
feast  for  her  friends  of  Brumer,  Tissot,  and  Stacey 
Islands.  The  men  determined  to  punish  this  action, 
saying,  “ If  we  pass  this  over  our  bodies  will  be  treated 
in  the  same  way.”  However,  the  women  may  be  trusted 
to  take  care  of  themselves.’ 

At  this  early  stage  of  the  mission  there  was  no 
intention  of  limiting  work  to  the  coast-hne.  Chalmers 
had  already  made  one  or  two  attempts  at  inland 
journeys,  and  had  penetrated  some  few  miles  at  one  or 
two  points  into  the  interior.  And  these  attempts  were 


Inland  Journeys  i8i 

to  continue  for  some  years,  since  it  did  not  become 
evident,  until  a later  date,  that  the  difficulties  in  the  way 
of  inland  extension  were  insuperable.  They  are  due 
partly  to  the  nature  of  the  country,  partly  to  the  climate, 
but  in  far  larger  degree  to  the  paucity  of  the  resources 
placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  Society  by  the  Christian 
people  at  home.  Costly  as  the  coast  mission  has  been, 
a still  greater  proportionate  expenditure  will  be  involved 
in  carrying  the  Gospel  to  the  inland  tribes  of  New 
Guinea,  unless  the  happy  day  comes  when  the  natives 
trained  in  the  various  colleges  and  schools  become,  both 
in  character  and  acquirements,  equal  to  the  great  task 
of  evangelizing  their  countrymen. 

But  ever  since  landing-  at  Suau  Chalmers  had  been 

o 

eager  to  penetrate  into  the  great  region  lying  behind 
the  coast  villages  nearest  to  his  home. 

A report  dated  August  26,  1878,  gives  very  inter- 
esting details  of  the  journey,  especially  of  some  of  the 
curious  customs  of  the  natives  who  accompanied  him. 
The  main  result  of  the  journey  is  summed  up  in  the 
sentence,  ‘ I should  not  advise  that  teachers  be  sent 
inland  at  present.’  A few  extracts  from  the  journal 
may  be  of  special  interest  to  the  reader. 

‘ Mr.  Chester,  the  representative  of  the  Queensland 
Government,  was  anxious  to  join  our  party,  and  I was 
glad  of  his  company.  He  with  Ngativaro,  Pi,  and  Re- 
boama,  made  up  our  company.  We  knew  nothing  of 
either  the  country  or  the  people.  We  have  had  several 
visits  from  inland  tribes,  but  could  not  discover  exactly 
where  they  came  from.  A chief  named  Kuaiani  was  to 
lead  us  across,  an  elderly  man  and  a staunch  friend. 

‘ We  crossed  the  river  while  the  sun  was  shining, 
and  went  on,  shouting  joyfully.  At  a place  where  a 
woman  had  died  long  ago  each  man  took  a branch  of 


i82  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

a tree,  one  also  was  given  to  me,  and  we  ran  along 
beating  our  feet  and  legs  to  prevent  the  woman  from 
retarding  our  progress.  All  right ; we  passed  the  place, 
and  then  we  went  a little  more  leisurely.  Later  it  was 
amusing  to  see  the  old  chief  march  spitting  at  the  rain 
which  had  come  on,  and  talking  angrily  to  it  and  calling 
upon  us  to  exert  our  powers  too. 

‘ By  half-past  six  we  entered  the  chief’s  house  at 
Diodio,  somewhat  tired  and  glad  to  rest.  The  chief  and 
people  were  delighted  to  see  us.  The  excitement  was 
great,  and  our  old  friend  had  an  attentive  audience  to 
listen  to  all  he  knew  of  these  wonderful  dwtdints 
(foreigners).  Stretching  out  on  the  floor  alongside  of 
the  fire  I slept  the  sleep  of  the  w'earied,  only  awakened 
now  and  then  by  our  old  friend,  who  was  expatiating 
at  various  times  during  the  night  on  the  day’s  pro- 
ceedings, and  on  the  mighty  war  canoe,  Sappho,  which 
had  called  at  Suau ; that,  he  said,  was  nothing  but 
a great  floating  land  with  a large  population. 

‘ We  were  now  at  the  base  of  the  range,  and  at  a part 
where  no  mountains  appear  on  the  chart.  A great  work 
had  to  be  accomplished,  and  before  doing  it  the  moun- 
tain spirits  must  be  propitiated.  We  were  made  to 
assemble  on  the  small  island ; an  old  cocoanut,  which 
must  have  been  carried  for  the  purpose,  was  broken 
and  scraped  into  a large  leaf,  several  kinds  of  leaves 
were  taken  and  cut  small  and  placed  alongside  of  the 
scraped  cocoanut,  the  old  chief  and  five  others  sat  round 
mixing  all  together  and  chanting  in  a low,  monotonous 
tone.  When  they  had  finished  they  stood  up  and  gave 
a loud  shout.  All  except  the  women  and  foreigners 
seized  some  of  the  mixture,  squeezed  it  over  their  heads, 
chests,  and  backs,  and  then  going  into  the  stream  up  to 
the  thighs,  stood,  and  with  hands  closed  and  uplifted 


Native  Incantations 


183 


to  mouth,  and  looking-  up  towards  the  mountain, 
repeated  some  words  in  a very  low  tone,  after  which 
they  all  shouted  and  plunged  into  the  water.  The  old 
man  continued  some  time  in  the  water  after  the  others, 
in  a crouching  position,  and  looking  steadily  up  the 
mountain  and  repeating  something  as  if  in  prayer. 
When  he  had  finished,  and  had  come  out,  I asked  him  if 
it  was  all  right.  “ Yes,  yes,  good,  very  good  ; they  have 
gone,  and  Buniara  (chief  of  Vakavaka)  will  be  prepared 
for  us.  Pigs  we  shall  eat  on  the  other  side  of  that 
mountain ; armlets  we  shall  put  on,  and  there  shall  be 
more  taro  and  yams  given  to  us  than  we  know  what  to 
do  with.” 

‘ We  had  to  ascend  again,  but  before  doing  so  incan- 
tations again  had  to  be  gone  through.  On  this  occasion 
a seed  from  a tree  was  taken  and  beaten  until  quite 
soft,  and  was  then  squeezed  into  the  eyes  of  the  chief. 
His  eyes  were  soon  inflamed.  All  decorated  themselves 
with  their  ornaments  and  put  their  hair  to  rights,  the 
old  chief  leading,  and  we  foreigners  behind,  followed  by 
the  men  and  women.  All  the  way  up  the  chief  was 
picking  leaves  from  various  plants,  and  then  addressing 
them  threw  them  down  and  went  on  speaking  in  a vety^  j 
low  tone,  not  deigning  to  smile  at  anything.  A bird 
settled  on  a branch  a little  distance  ahead  of  us.  The 
chief  at  once  stopped  and  called  out  to  it  to  get  away 
from  there  as  it  was  preventing  our  advance. 

‘ We  climbed  to  a height  of  900  feet,  then  along  the  face 
of  the  hill  to  a village  900  feet  above  sea  level.  A number 
of  men  were  seated  on  a stone  circle  ; we  were  marched 
round  them,  the  chief  chewing  viciously  at  betel-nut  and 
squirting  it  out  to  right  and  left  as  he  went  along. 
When  he  had  gone  quite  round  he  spoke  thus  to  the  men 
on  the  circle,  “ Here  are  great  foreign  chiefs  come  to 


184  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

see  you,  and  here  am  I,  Kuaiani,  with  a number  of  my 
people,”  Room  was  made  for  us  foreigners  on  the 
circle,  but  Kuaiani  went  out  in  front  of  the  houses. 
The  men  of  the  place  left  us  and  sprang  out  in  front 
of  the  houses,  one  had  a spear  and  another  a native 
axe ; the}’-  harangued  and  shouted,  and  rushed  up  to 
our  old  friend,  and  feigned  an  attack  upon  him.  At 
one  time  men,  women,  and  children  were  all  shouting. 
Kuaiani  took  his  tomahawk  and  threw  it  down  before 
them.  Another  threw  down  two  pieces  of  hoop-iron, 
then  an  old  woman  came  and  wept  with  our  chief. 
All  now  appeared  friendly,  and  our  people  and  the 
people  of  the  village  mixed  freely.  It  seems  that  some 
time  ago  an  unpleasantness  had  occurred  when  a party 
from  this  village  were  at  Varauru,  and  they  had  been 
settling  their  difference  in  this  way. 

‘ On  our  return  I was  sorry  to  find  l\Irs.  Chalmers 
very  unwell.  Unless  she  gets  better  soon  we  shall 
visit  Cooktown,  when  she  may  proceed  to  Sydney,  and 
remain  there  for  a few  months.  Do  not  fear,  we  shall 
not  run  any  useless  risks  if  we  can  help  it.’ 

Later  in  the  year  he  made  another  inland  journey 
in  which  incidents  of  the  kind  just  noticed  occurred. 

‘ I returned  to  the  chief’s  house,  and  received  a 
present  of  six  earthen  pots  of  cooked  taro  and  a fine 
pig.  Oh,  how  the  people  did  scream  with  delight 
when  I showed  them  my  arms!  The  possessions 
which  gain  me  most  admiration  are  my  nose  and 
boots.  That  nose,  and,  oh,  those  boots  I They  shouted 
from  ridge  to  ridge,  “ Tamate  has  come,”  and  then  the 
natives  came  in  crowds.  I bought  taro  for  our  part}-, 
but  they  brought  more  than  I had  hoop-iron  to  spare, 
as  we  had  still  the  return  and  the  coast.  I said  I could 
buy  no  more,  but  if  they  liked  to  trust  me,  all  right, 


A Romantic  Picture 


185 

and  when  their  chief  came  to  visit  me  I would  pay 
him,  “ Certainly,  take  all,  and  some  day  our  chief  will 
visit  you,  when  you  will  give  him  the  iron,”  The 
house  was  crowded,  but  a small  space  was  reserved  for 
me,  where  I enjoyed  a good  night’s  rest.  By  daylight 
we  were  off,  and  by  another  route,  passing  through 
several  villages  where  we  had  to  halt  to  be  admired. 

‘When  we  got  to  the  village  where  our  boat  and 
canoes  were  anchored,  we  found  great  crowds  from  all 
round  waiting  our  arrival.  A deputation  waited  upon 
me  to  allow  the  boat  to  be  seen,  and  to  this  I assented 
with  pleasure.  One  of  my  boys  went  off  and  brought 
her  in  to  the  beach,  where  she  was  examined  all  over 
and  greatly  admired.  The  excitement,  though  great, 
was  of  the  most  genial  kind.  We  had  some  feasting, 
and  by  sunset  were  on  our  way  home.  We  had  chewing 
of  betel-nuts  and  squirting  of  the  juice  to  the  north, 
south,  east,  and  west,  to  keep  off  the  wind.  A streak 
of  light,  from  under  a small  cloud,  from  a star,  caused 
a consultation,  and  this  turned  out  to  be  in  their  judge- 
ment the  spirit  of  some  woman,  and  our  journey  by 
sea  would  be  prosperous.  One  of  the  lads  was  very 
ill  with  a bad  cold,  and  had  a severe  pain  in  the  side, 
this  was  attributed  to  a woman  who  had  speared  him. 
I,  thinking  it  might  be  some  old  wound,  asked  when 
and  how : “ Oh,  it  was  a spirit ; our  eyes  did  not  see 
the  spearing,” 

‘ In  the  moonlight,  in  Lawes  Bay  and  round  by  Free 
Point  into  Farm  Bay,  we  saw  a romantic  picture.  In 
the  background  was  the  great  mass  of  mountains, 
part  of  the  Lome  Range,  close  to  us  was  the  bold 
coast  with  the  surf  breaking  white  upon  it,  and  on 
each  side  of  the  boat  was  a large  war  canoe  manned 
by  savages.  It  was  not  unpleasant  to  hear  them  singing 


i86  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

translations  of  the  hymns,  “ Come  to  Jesus  ” and  “ I 
have  a Father  in  the  promised  land.”  The}’  cannot 
yet  understand  them,  but  I hope  they  will  soon.  God 
grant  that  the  day  is  near  when  these  poor  fellows 
shall  love  our  Lord  Jesus  as  their  Saviour  and  Friend! 

‘ Vi'e  have  been  in  twenty  new  \dUages  and  two  new 
large  mountain  districts,  ^^"e  have  discovered  a new 
bay  and  three  islets  and  four  rivers.  We  have  mixed 
freely  with  people  hitherto  thought  to  be  great  savages, 
and  above  all,  we  have  been  with  them  as  friends,  living 
in  their  houses,  sleeping  surrounded  by  them,  and  eating 
out  of  the  same  dish  with  them. 

‘ I hope  ^Irs.  Chalmers  will  be  able  to  return  in 
January.  The  natives  prefer  her  being  here.  I believe 
it  is  that  they  think  it  is  all  peaceful  when  she  is  with 
us,  and  they  have  perfect  confidence  in  her  as  their 
fnend.’ 

The  separation  from  his  wife,  which  Chalmers  had 
long  dreaded,  came  in  October  of  this  year.  He  took 
her  to  Cooktown  on  the  way  to  friends  at  Sydney. 
The  hope  was  that  change  of  scene,  rest  from  work,  and 
the  kindly  attention  of  friends,  would  lead  to  such  a 
restoration  of  health  that  she  might  be  able  to  accom- 
pany her  husband  to  England.  Chalmers  had  now  in 
his  turn  to  endure  something  of  what  she  had  so  bravely 
gone  through  earlier  in  the  year — loneliness  in  life  and 
work  at  Suau.  Chalmers  kept  at  this  time,  evidently 
for  his  wife's  benefit  and  interest,  a somewhat  full  journal, 
which  shows  that  in  his  own  way  he  felt  no  less  than  she 
had  done  the  burden  of  loneliness  and  separation. 

‘ Suau,  October  i8.  Your  birthday,  my  ain  lassie, 
and  God  grant  you  many  returns ! Sincerely  do  I 
hope  you  are  keeping  better.  We  had  a rough  and 
unpleasant  passage  across,  the  decks  being  too  much 


A Comical  Scene 


187 

lumbered.  However,  all  got  across  safe.  We  made 
Dufaure  Island,  and  had  to  steam  up  from  there,  arriving 
here  yesterday  about  one  o’clock.  There  was  true 
sorrow  when  it  was  seen  that  you  were  not  on  board. 
The  boat  is  much  thought  of.  So,  love,  you  are  steam- 
ing along  to  Island  Point  now.  How  suitable  for  us 
both  is  the  Scripture  passage  for  to-day  in  the  Daily 
Book,  “ The  Lord  shall  be  thy  confidence,  and  shall 
keep  thy  foot  from  being  taken.”  Our  trust  is  in  Him ; 
nearer  still  to  our  adorable  Lord  Jesus  ; to  live  His  life 
and  to  be  filled  with  His  love,  to  be  lost  to  self;  His 
alone,  safe  in  His  arms ; rest ! 

‘ October  20.  We  had  a comical  scene  in  church  this 
morning.  A boy  came  in  dressed  in  a shirt,  and 
looking  of  the  greatest  importance.  Soon  quite  a con- 
gregation assembled,  and  when  the  service  was  about  to 
begin,  in  stalks  one  of  Ngativaro’s  big  lads  with  a jacket 
in  his  hand.  He  spotted  the  youth  with  the  shirt,  and 
ordered  him  then  and  there  to  undress.  The  boy  had 
to  get  up,  and  was  helped  by  several  others  out  of  the 
stolen  shirt,  which  was  handed  to  its  rightful  owner,  who 
immediately  set  to  dressing,  quite  a large  number  helping 
in  the  operation. 

‘ October  22.  Ah,  darling  Jeanie,  it  is  dull  coming 
home,  especially  when  down  with  fever,  and  not  having 
you  to  meet  me ! We  set  off  in  the  morning.  Pi, 
Reboama,  Manuegu,  and  I in  boat  with  five  lads.  The 
two  war  canoes,  one  on  each  side  of  us.  All  were 
armed,  and  there  were  fifty-one  men  in  all.  We  got 
on  to  the  reef  near  Varauru,  and  poled  and  paddled  to 
Delina,  where  we  arrived  about  three  p.m.  Delina  is  only 
a food  land  with  a few  houses,  which  are  merely  for  the 
people  when  planting.  All  of  us  sat  still  in  the  boat 
for  a long  time,  then  Porokau  went  ashore,  squirting 


i88  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

the  saliva  from  the  betel-nut,  and  mounted  the  platform 
of  the  chief’s  house  where  I was  when  we  called  there 
in  April.  Shortly  the  people  got  cocoanuts,  and  threw 
them  on  the  beach  near  to  the  boat.  Then  Porokau 
came  down,  and  he,  Manuegu,  and  I went  ashore  with 
our  presents.  The  cocoanuts  were  divided,  and  all  went 
ashore,  leaving  only  a few  in  charge  of  the  boat  and 
the  canoes.  We  bought  several  hundreds  of  cocoanuts, 
some  taro  and  yams,  and  were  soon  feasting.  Night 
came  on,  and  some  of  us  took  up  our  quarters  in  the 
chief’s  house,  a wretchedly  small  concern  with  a great 
smoking  fire.  Eight  of  us  were  packed  together  in 
a place  very  little  larger  than  our  bed.  It  blew  a 
terrible  gale  of  wind,  and  rain  poured  down  in  torrents. 
Morning  broke  at  last,  and  right  thankful  I was  for  it. 

‘ W e left  and  crossed  to  Bonarua,  but  ague  threatening 
me  we  did  not  stay.  It  rained  and  blew,  and  we  made 
for  Baibeseka  (Tissot).  We  left  the  canoes  far  behind, 
I shaking  all  the  way.  Manuegu  got  me  into  a nice 
comfortable  house  alongside  a fire.  I was  soon  in  a high 
fever.  It  was  pleasing  to  see  the  kindly  interest  all 
the  people  took  in  Tamate,  keeping  out  of  the  house, 
and  inquiring  every  now  and  again  for  me.  Poor 
people,  they  thought  it  a great  honour  that  I should 
run  into  their  place  when  sick. 

‘ October  25.  How  it  did  rain  this  afternoon ! It 
was  well  we  did  not  go  to  the  mountain  to-day.  Our 
Tepauri  friends  visited  us  to-day  again.  It  is  now 
pouring,  and  although  still  very  early,  I think  I’ll  away 
to  bed.  The  nights  are  long  and  dull,  not  a creature 
but  myself  in  the  house.  God  grant  us  both  health  and 
strength  to  live  together  for  Him. 

‘ October  26.  I have  had  another  dreadful  attack  of 
fever  and  vomiting,  and  am  now  better,  yet  my  head 


Chalmers^  Journal  in  1878  189 

is  light ; eh ! my  ain  Jeanie  , I do  miss  you  much,  very 
much.  It  has  been  raining  all  day.  With  the  exception 
of  colds  all  the  others  are  well.  I wonder  where  you 
are.  May  we  both  be  safe  in  His  arms,  whose  we  are 
and  whom  we  serve  ! 

‘ October  28.  I am  in  hopes  of  getting  away  in  the 
morning  for  Oopu.  I look  forward  to  your  being  better 
to  meet  me  in  January  at  Thursday  Island.  If  you  feel 
well,  and  the  doctor  says  it  is  safe,  come  on,  but  if  you 
feel  weak,  and  the  advice  given  is  to  remain,  do  so, 
darling ; do  not  risk  too  much,  you  are  too  precious  to 
me  for  me  to  drag  you  in  uncertain  health  into  this 
climate.  I hope  the  Directors  will  relieve  us  soon  so 
that  we  may  get  home.  God,  our  Father,  ever  guide  us 
aright  and  keep  us  for  His  own  glory  only ! How  I long 
for  more  entire  consecration  to  His  service,  that  we  both 
may  evermore  dwell  in  our  Lord  Jesus,  our  adorable 
Redeemer ! 

‘ November  30.  We  have  just  had  our  Saturday 
evening  prayer-meeting.  I hope  to-morrow  to  be  able 
to  sit  down  at  our  Lord’s  Table.  There  are  eighteen  of 
us  altogether,  and  It  wiU  be  well  for  us  “ to  do  this  in 
remembrance  of  Him.”  Glorious  Saviour ! would  God 
we  were  more  enthusiastic  in  our  love,  simply  and  solely 
His.  How  very  formal  we  get  in  our  routine  worship, 
and  how  seldom  we  break  away  from  self  and  mere  form 
up  into  the  true  spiritual  region,  to  be  lost  in  burning 
love  for  Christ!  Oh  to  dwell  at  His  Cross,  and  to 
abound  in  blessed  sympathy  with  Him  and  His  great 
work ! Then  would  the  heathen  wonder  and  inquire. 
God  help  us  by  His  Spirit ! We  want  the  heathen  for 
Christ.  May  you,  darling  lassie,  be  richly  blessed  this 
night,  and  truly  enjoy  the  loving  presence  of  Him  whom 
you  love  and  delight  to  serve  1 


IQO  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

‘ December  6.  One  year  3'esterday  since  we  arrived 
here.  The  house  is  up,  and  it  is  a fine,  large-loolring 
place.  \Miere  are  you,  pet,  and  what  are  you  doing? 
These  are  questions  often  passing  through  my  mind. 
Under  the  shadow  of  the  Almighn*  may  you  ever  rest. 
Oh,  how  I do  hope  you  are  well  and  strong,  and  that  we 
maj'  veiy’  soon  meet ! ’ 

The  closing  days  of  this  eventful  year  were  passed 
by  Chalmers  at  Port  Moresby.  Thence,  on  December  31, 
he  wrote  to  the  Directors  : — 

‘ As  to  going  to  England  I cannot  see  my  wa}'  clear. 
We  have  eighteen  stations  in  the  eastern  branch  of  the 
mission,  and  to  leave  these  poor  fellows  at  present  would 
be  cruel.  I am  in  excellent  health  and  good  working 
trim,  and  so  I shall  remain  until  relieved.  You  can 
safely  send  out  two  or  three  young  missionaries — men 
altogether  Christ’s,  who  will  think  nothing  of  a few 
hardships,  and  spurn  the  notion  that  the  work  here 
involves  any  sacrifices ; I think  the  word  “ sacrifices  ” 
ought  never  to  be  used  in  Christ’s  ser\n'ce.  Let  them 
be  men  and  women  without  any  namby-pambjdsm. 
The  latter— ladies —might  be  kept  back  for  a year  or 
two,  and  yet  a man  is  none  the  worse  off  with  his  wife 
alongside  of  him.  I hope  to  see  mine  here  again  veiy 
soon,  as  I get  through  more  work  and  do  it  more  satis- 
factorily when  she  is  with  me. 

‘ I still  have  a strong  desire  to  cross  the  peninsula  to 
Huon  Gulf  I have  no  wish  whatever  to  turn  explorer, 
but  I do  wish  to  know  all  that  is  to  be  known  about 
New  Guinea.  But  only  in  the  capacity  of  a missionary 
would  I travel.’ 

During  Januar}’,  1879,  Chalmers  was  busily  engaged 
in  visiting  the  old  and  in  stationing  new  teachers  along 
the  coast.  It  was  at  this  time  that  he  made  his  first 


Arrival  of  a Colleague  191 

trip  westward,  and  that  only  a short  one.  But  it  fixed 
the  plan  which  had  been  slowly  maturing  in  his  mind. 
‘ The  whole  trip,’  he  wrote  on  January  1 5,  ‘ was  a most 
enjoyable  one,  though  we  had  wind,  sun,  and  rain  in 
abundance.  What  a magnificent  district  for  a missionaiy 
with  a good  staff  of  teachers,  from  Keokaro  Bay  to  Yule 
Island,  and  eventually  along  the  coast  to  the  Aird  River, 
where  he  would  be  met  by  the  western  teachers  and  the 
black  race.  What  a grand  prospect  for  the  future,  the 
whole  coast  divided  into  small  districts  and  worked 
inland  by  English  missionaries  and  native  teachers  who 
claim  all  for  Christ.  God  grant  we  may  be  spared  to 
see  that  day ! Already  the  teachers  are  gaining  great 
influence  over  the  savages,  and  are  doing  much  to  pre- 
vent strife  and  bloodshed,  and  we  have  reason  to  believe 
that  some  who  hear  us  are  beginning  to  think  of  the 
things  they  hear.  We  need  help — missionaries  willing 
to  live  amongst  the  savages,  men  and  women  who  will 
joyfully  endure  the  hardships  of  the  climate  for  Christ’s 
sake.  We  must  show  the  world  that  the  Gospel  is  still 
the  power  of  God  unto  salvation,  and  that  there  are 
those  who  believe  thoroughly  in  it,  and  are  willing  to 
endure  much  for  its  sake.’ 

The  journal,  under  the  date  January  26,  records  : — 

*I  had  sad  news  concerning  my  wife’s  health.  She 
was  no  better,  and  the  doctor  considered  her  in  a very 
critical  state.’ 

These  sorrowful  tidings  were  brought  to  Chalmers  by 
the  vessel  which  also  carried  Mr.  Thomas  Beswick,  who 
had  been  appointed  to  the  New  Guinea  Mission,  and 
who,  in  July,  1879,  made  Hula  his  station.  ‘ I was  truly 
glad  to  welcome  Mr.  Beswick  to  New  Guinea,’  writes 
Chalmers.  ‘ His  arrival  is,  I trust,  the  beginning  of 
a good  time  for  New  Guinea.’ 


192  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

The  arrival  of  a coUeaome  brouofht  the  return  visit 
to  England  within  the  range  of  the  possible,  but  the 
dangerous  state  of  Mrs.  Chalmers’  health  upset  the 
plan.  Before  Chalmers  could  complete  the  arrangements 
needful  ere  he  could  leave  his  work,  on  February’’  20, 
1879,  Sydney.  So  uncertain  was  the 

postal  communication  of  those  days  that  Chalmers*  first 
intimation  of  his  great  loss  was  a paragraph  in  a news- 
paper shown  to  him  at  Cooktown. 

The  Rev.  S.  EUa,  a retired  Samoan  missionar}',  resident 
at  Sydney,  in  a letter  to  Dr.  Mullens,  dated  Februaiy'  26, 
1S79,  gave  some  particulars  of  her  closing  days : — 

‘ You  will  be  grieved  to  receive  the  sad  intelligence  of 
the  death  of  !Mrs.  Chalmers,  although  you  have  probably 
been  prepared  for  such  news.  The  medical  opinion  of 
our  dear  sister's  complaint  from  the  first  gave  verj’  litde 
hope  of  her  recovery,  though  she  herself  was  more  hope- 
ful, and  spoke  longingly  of  her  speedy  return  to  her 
husband,  and  to  the  work  to  which  she  was  so  ardently 
devoted.  It  was  painful  to  witness  the  ravages  which 
consumption  was  dailj*  making  on  her  enfeebled  fi-ame, 
till  she  was  at  length  reduced  to  the  utmost  limit  of 
attenuation,  and  passed  away  from  utter  exhaustion. 

‘ Her  mind  to  the  last  was  bright  and  vigorous.  She 
delighted  to  talk  on  the  missionary  work,  and  especially 
on  scenes  and  events  in  the  New  Guinea  ^Mission,  regard- 
ing the  prospects  of  which  she  was  veiy  hopeful.  Had 
it  pleased  God  to  spare  her  to  return  to  that  mission,  she 
would  have  proved  a most  valuable  labourer ; but  He 
has,  in  His  inscrutable  wiU,  called  her  away  to  the 
heavenl}'  rest,  and  Xew  Guinea  and  the  Missionar)’- 
Society  have  lost  one  of  the  brightest  heroines  the 
mission  field  has  known.  Our  sympathies  and  earnest 
prayers  are  drawn  forth  on  behalf  of  the  bereaved 


Death  of  Mrs.  Chalmers 


193 


husband,  who  is  working  still  far  away  from  the 
mourners  here,  and  not  knowing  that  the  fond  partner 
of  his  toils  has  left  him  for  the  eternal  rest. 

‘ Our  dear  friend  received  every  kind  and  loving 
attention  from  the  family  of  Mrs.  Mander  Jones  she 
could  have  found  among  her  nearest  relatives,  and  this 
kindness  was  continued  to  the  last.  Mr.  Edward  Jones 
has  given  her  mortal  remains  a place  in  his  family  tomb, 
alongside  of  his  two  infant  children,  in  the  beautiful 
cemetery  at  Rookwood.  A large  number  of  friends 
followed  her  to  the  grave.’ 

Chalmers  went  on  with  all  speed  to  Sydney  as  soon 
as  possible  after  the  receipt  of  this  grievous  intelligence. 
He  then  paid  a flying  visit  to  Dunedin,  where  his  wife’s 
parents  and  other  relatives  lived. 

Two  brief  letters  were  written  at  this  dark  time  from 
Dunedin  to  Dr.  Mullens,  one  dated  April  9 and  the  other 
April  23.  In  the  first  he  writes : — 

‘ You  are  already  aware  of  my  great  loss,  and  to  enlarge 
upon  it  I cannot.  I write  asking  you  to  do  me  a great 
favour  by  getting  the  consent  of  the  Directors  to  my  re- 
turning to  and  remaining  in  New  Guinea  for  the  present. 
In  my  dearwife’s  last  letter  to  me, she  says,  “On  no  account 
leave  the  teachers,”  and  I feel  I must  return  to  them. 
I had  left  New  Guinea  to  meet  her  in  Sydney  and  pro- 
ceed to  England,  but  the  Master  has  done  His  will,  and 
I wiU  be  happy  nowhere  but  in  the  work.  I should  have 
returned  to  New  Guinea  from  Thursday  Island,  but  had 
no  particulars  from  Sydney,  only  a newspaper  report 
that  I received  from  one  of  the  shellers.  The  Port 
Moresby  and  Kerepunu  districts  are  in  fine  working 
order,  and  I long  to  see  the  same  in  the  east  end. 
Leave  me  then  to  bury  my  sorrow  in  work  for  Christ, 
with  whom  my  dear  wife  is.’ 

N 


194  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

And  in  the  second  : — 

‘ I am  leaving  to-day  for  South  Australia  on  deputa- 
tion, and  I hope  to  be  in  time  at  Cooktown  for  the 
Ellengowan.  I must  to  work.  It  would  have  a bad 
impression  on  our  teachers  were  I to  go  home  now. 
They  have  suffered,  and  some  of  them  have  lost  their 
wives,  and  with  them  I must  be.  The  Master  is  with  us, 
and  all  is  well.  Were  I to  go  home  now,  the  colonial 
press  would  glory  in  it,  and  say,  “ See  how  true  our 
remarks  on  these  Eno-lish  missionaries  have  been.  Here 

o 

is  one  who  has  lost  his  wife,  and  he  must  needs  run  home 
and  leave  the  poor  South  Sea  Islanders  alone,  although 
some  of  them  have  had  the  same  trial  to  endure.”  I feel 
so  certain  of  the  future  success  of  the  mission  that  I am 
eager  to  return  and  have  part  in  it.  It  must  be  aU  for 
Christ,  and  Christ  our  all.’ 

From  Adelaide,  on  May  9,  he  wrote  to  Mr.  Meikle ; — 

‘ I am  at  present  in  South  Australia  as  deputation 
from  the  London  Missionary  Society  to  the  churches. 
I do  not  much  like  the  work.  I hope  to  leave  the 
colonies  for  New  Guinea  in  July.  At  times  the  feeling 
of  loneliness  is  depressing.  When  I left  New  Guinea 
I had  hoped  we  should  have  been  with  you  this  month, 
but  the  Master  has  ordered  and  arranged  otherwise. 
I have  meetings  every  day,  and  preach  twice  every 
Sabbath.  The  people  are  remarkably  kind  and  sympa- 
thizing ; still,  I want  to  be  with  my  sa\’age  friends.  May 
I live  more  for  Christ,  aU  for  Christ,  and  Christ  all ! ’ 

The  death  of  his  wife  was  a sore  blow  to  the  lonely 
missionary.  Those  who  have  read  the  preceding  pages 
can  measure  the  greatness  of  his  loss,  and  the  suffering 
which  it  inflicted  upon  his  affectionate  nature.  But 
it  is  most  characteristic  that  the  loss  which  would  have 
disturbed  and  seriously  upset  a weaker  man  sent 


Return  to  New  Guinea 


195 


Chalmers  back  to  his  work.  In  many  cases  such  a 
blow  would  have  been  an  additional  reason  for  a visit 
to  Enofland:  but  in  his  ears  there  ever  sounded  the 
message  from  his  dying  companion — ‘ on  no  account 
leave  the  teachers.’  The  colonial  press  was  usually 
kindly  and  just  in  its  references  to  mission  work.  Yet 
then,  as  now,  ignorance  and  prejudice,  and  even  hatred, 
based  upon  the  realization  that  the  presence  of  mis- 
sionaries placed  some  check  upon  avarice  and  lust, 
sometimes  inspired  unfriendly  references  to  the  New 
Guinea  Mission  in  colonial  papers.  The  charge  re- 
ferred to  by  Chalmers  had  been  occasionally  made, 
and  baseless  though  it  was,  he  determined  that  it  should 
have  no  countenance  from  his  actions.  And  so,  sad 
of  heart,  lonely  and  depressed,  and  yet  sustained  by 
the  Master’s  presence  and  an  unquenchable  conviction 
that  great  things  were  in  store  for  New  Guinea,  he  re- 
turned to  his  work.  Seven  long  years  of  splendid 
service  were  to  pass  before  he  revisited  Britain. 
Years  full  of  rich  blessing,  immediate  for  those  whom 
his  labours  directly  affected,  remote  yet  none  the  less 
fruitful  for  tribes  who  may  never  even  hear  his  name. 

Chalmers  reached  Cooktown  on  his  return  journey 
on  June  12,  and  paid  a short  visit  to  South  Cape. 
On  June  28  he  wrote  to  Mr.  Meikle  : — 

‘ I have  again  arrived  in  New  Guinea,  and  cannot  say 
how  long  I may  remain.  I feel  happier  in  work  here 
than  I did  or  could  do  in  civilization.  I missed  my  dear 
wife  very  much  when  in  the  colonies ; here  I feel  she 
could  not  be  with  me,  were  she  alive,  because  of  the 
climate.  She  is  safe  with  Jesus.  ’Tis  mine  now  to  live 
and  labour  for  Him,  more  entirely  His  than  ever. 
There  is  a great  blank  in  life  now.  God  help  me  to  bear 
patiently  my  lot ! 

N 2 


196  Among  the  Cannibals  at  Suau 

‘We  were  attacked  the  other  day  by  the  natives  of 
Port  Dudfield,  and  were  nearly  taken  by  them.  To 
enable  us  to  get  to  the  boat,  several  shots  were  fired,  and 
one  poor  savage  was  shot  dead.  I hope  to  be  able  to 
make  friends  with  them. 

‘ We  leave  here  next  week  for  Port  Moresby,  where 
I remain  for  inland  work.  It  is  possible  I shall  leave 
this  end  of  New  Guinea  to  others,  and  go  to  the  west  to 
break  up  new  soil.  We  may  say  in  this  mission  that 
one  breaks  up,  another  sows,  and  another  reaps.  Ever 
remember  me  in  prayer,  ’tis  all  I ask.’ 

Chalmers  visited  and  encouraged  the  various 
teachers  at  the  east  end  of  the  island,  and  then  returned 
to  Port  Moresby,  whence  he  wrote : ‘ I intend  remaining 
in  this  district  for  some  time,  and,  if  possible,  will  try  to 
get  inland.’  He  never  again  resided  at  Suau. 


CHAPTER  VI 

PIONEERING  FROM  1879  TO  1886 

In  July,  1879,  Chalmers  made  an  inland  journey  from 
Port  Moresby  in  the  hope  of  finding-  healthier  sites  for 
missions  than  those  along  the  coast.  And  in  October 
of  the  same  year  he  sent  home  the  scheme  of  -what  later 
on,  under  the  care  of  Lawes  and  himself,  was  realized — 
the  plan  for  a training  institution  at  Port  Moresby 
where  natives  of  New  Guinea  could  be  educated  to 
become  the  evangelists  of  the  island.  Chalmers’  plan 
differed  from  that  attempted  in  Murray  Island,  in  that 
he  proposed  to  admit  only  those  who  had  come  under 
the  influence  of  Christianity,  and  who  were  beginning 
to  gain  some  knowledge  of  its  meaning  and  power. 
Students  who  had  begun  themselves  to  realize  the 
power  of  the  Gospel  were  likely  to  become,  he  held, 
earnest  messengers  to  the  heathen  tribes. 

In  November,  Chalmers  and  Beswick  went  on  a 
venturesome  trip  along  the  coast  from  Port  Moresby 
to  Bald  Headh  In  the  Ellengowan,  on  their  way  to 
Thursday  Island,  they  sailed  in  front  of  this  great  stretch 
of  coast-line  on  both  the  outward  and  the  return  voyage. 
Already  the  costly  nature  of  the  mission,  the  ravages  of 
fever  which  attacked  Polynesians  and  Europeans  alike, 
and  the  diflSculties  which  seemed  to  stand  in  the  way 
of  white  missionaries  reaching  New  Guinea,  rendered 

' See  Work  and  Adventure  tn  Aew  Guinea  (1902),  chap.  iv. 


198  Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

the  extension  and  even  the  continuance  of  the  mission 
doubtful,  not  only  to  home  authorities  and  friends,  but 
also  to  those  in  Australia.  Air.  Beswick  retired  from 
the  mission  in  1881.  But  Chalmers  never  wavered. 
In  a letter  to  the  Directors,  dated  April  10,  1880,  he 
wrote  : ‘ I do  trust  that  not  one  station  wiU  be  given  up. 
Better  that  we  all  should  live  on  native  vegetables  than 
that  one  teacher  should  be  withdrawn.  I consider  Port 
^Moresby  the  most  important  station  we  have  in  this 
mission,  ha\nng  the  widest  field.  Seeing  that  teachers 
have  lived  there  for  seven  years,  I think  a white 
missionarj’  might  too.  ...  I do  hope  the  Gulf  will  soon 
have  teachers.  I believe  thoroughly  in  concentration 
and  also  in  extension.  “ Go  ! ” Christ  says,  and  I do 
not  think  we  should  ever  withdraw.’ 

In  August,  1879,  Chalmers  visited  the  Kabadi  dis- 
trict ‘ The  Gulf  natives,’  he  wrote,  ‘ are  a dreadful  lot, 
rejoicing  in  murder  and  rapine.  They  have  sent  us 
word  they  will  return  next  season  and  kill  and  plunder 
foreigners  and  natives  alike.  I have  sent  them  word  to 
come,  and  that  we  shall  be  glad  to  see  them.’  As  a 
reflection  on  his  visit  to  Kabadi,  Chalmers  wrote : ‘ If 
one  only  had  teachers,  what  splendid  openings  we  have 
for  them ! To-day’s  Gospel  with  the  natives  is  one  of 
tomahawks  and  tobacco ; we  are  received  by  them 
because  of  these.  By  that  door  we  enter  to  preach 
the  Gospel  of  Love,  and  I wish  it  could  be  done  now.’ 
Even  the  Directors  were  under  serious  misapprehen- 
sions at  this  rime  as  to  the  facts  and  conditions  of  the 
mission,  and  as  to  the  direction  in  which  true  and  abiding 
progress  could  be  made.  Once  and  again  Chalmers 
wrote  home  letters  which  urged  suspense  of  judgement 
and  deprecated  hasty  action.  Here  is  an  illustration. 

^ See  Work  and  Adventure  in  New  Guitiea  (1902),  chap.  v. 


First  Visit  to  Motumotu 


199 


On  December  28,  1880,  he  wrote:  ‘May  I ask  you  still 
to  wait  awhile  for  a report  on  the  mission.  Sometimes 
in  the  boat  I have  found  it  difficult  to  say  whether  it  was 
the  first  streaks  of  dawn  I saw  or  not,  so  I waited  a little, 
and  if  the  streaks  of  light  increased  there  was  no  room 
left  for  doubt.  We  are  in  that  state  here.  I think  it  is 
morning  breaking,  but  I want  to  be  sure.  Natives  do 
many  things  like  parrots — pray,  keep  Sabbath,  and  come 
to  services,  so  that  I would  not  put  too  much  trust  in 
these  doings.  We  have  aU  these  signs  of  progress,  and 
something  more,  I think — a few  who  really  pray,  and 
whose  lives  are  working  parallel  to  their  prayers.  God 
help  us  to  be  faithful,  and  by  our  lives  and  teaching  to 
preach  Christ  continually ! ’ 

In  January,  1881,  Chalmers  paid  his  first  visit  to  the 
people  of  Motumotu,  on  one  of  the  earliest  and  one  of 
his  most  famous  peace-making  errands^.  It  had  been 
the  habit  of  these  fierce  Gulf  savages  to  plunder  and 
slay  their  weaker  neighbours  along  the  coast  to  the  east, 
especially  the  Kabadi  district.  It  is  characteristic  of 
Chalmers  that  he  should  have  gone.  It  is  a higher  tribute 
to  his  magnetic  influence  that  he  should  have  been  able 
to  persuade  a boat’s  crew  of  eastern  natives  to  go  with 
him.  ‘ Our  boat’s  crew,’  he  writes,  ‘ were  considered 
fools,  rushing  into  the  arms  of  death.’  Yet  with  such 
a leader  they  went.  Strangest  of  all  was  the  extra- 
ordinary power  he  wielded  over  savages  who  had  never 
conversed  with  him  before.  Arrived  at  Motumotu,  he 
said  to  the  chiefs,  ‘ You  must  not  again  go  to  Kabadi, 
and  all  along  the  coast  we  must  have  peace.’  This  was 
practically  telling  them  that  the  serious  duties  and 
fierce  joys  of  life  must  come  to  an  end.  Yet  they  meekly 
replied,  and  what  is  more  wonderful  stiU,  lived  up  to 

' See  Work  and  Adventure  in  New  Guinea  (1902),  chap.  vii. 


200 


Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

their  reply,  ‘ It  is  right ; we  shall  not  again  visit  Kabadi.’ 
Certainly,  at  that  time,  no  other  mortal  could  have  gone 
to  that  tribe,  spoken  such  words  to  them,  and  obtained 
such  an  answer.  Chalmers,  in  speaking  of  their  past, 
says  of  this  tribe,  ‘ No  enemy  ever  dare  come  near  their 
viUasres,  and  their  houses  have  never  been  burnt  down.’ 
In  the  e}'es  of  these  savages  it  was  not  the  least  of  the 
marvels  connected  with  Tamate  that  he  came  to  them 
for  this  his  first  visit  at  a season  when  no  native  canoes 
dare  face  the  wind  and  the  sea  for  such  a voyage ; he 
came,  moreover,  in  the  teeth  of  the  monsoon,  urged  on 
by  the  stalwart  rowers  who  formed  his  crew.  ‘ I want 
you,’  said  the  chief,  ‘ to  give  me  some  of  that  medicine 
you  use  to  make  your  boat  go  ’ ; ‘I  use  no  medicine, 
only  strong  arms.’  ‘ You  could  never  have  come  along 
now  without  medicine.’ 

On  April  12,  1881,  W.  G.  Lawes  returned  to  Port 
Moresby,  to  receive  the  warmest  of  welcomes  from 
Chalmers,  and  to  inaugurate  a new  epoch  in  the  New 
Guinea  Mission.  Lawes  wrote  home  to  R.  Wardlaw 
Thompson, who  had,  in  succession  to  Dr.  Mullens,  entered 
upon  the  duties  of  Foreign  Secretary  to  the  London 
Missionary  Society: — 

‘ We  were  welcomed  most  heartily  on  our  arrival  by 
Mr.  Chalmers.  He  seemed  overjoyed  to  see  us,  and 
especially  Mrs.  Lawes,  after  his  long,  solitary  life  here. 
It  would  do  5'ou  good  to  see  him.  He  has  done  an 
immense  deal  of  work,  especially  in  travelling,  and 
establishing  friendly  relations  with  new  tribes  and  dis- 
tricts. He  is  much  thinner  than  when  I left  him  here 
three  years  ago,  but  is  looking  well  and  strong.  He 
keeps  everybody  alive,  and  has  an  inexhaustible  stock 
of  energ)'.’ 

Chalmers’  first  letter  to  his  old  fellow  collegian. 


Cause  of  Kalo  Massacre 


201 


Mr.  Thompson,  in  his  new  capacity  as  secretary,  warmly 
congratulated  him  upon  his  important  appointment,  and 
still  more  the  mission  upon  the  return  of  the  European 
missionary  who  had  been  the  first  to  make  his  home 
upon  the  mainland  of  New  Guinea.  The  letter  is  dated 
April  20,  1 88 1. 

‘ A greater  pleasure  I could  not  have  than  the  news 
of  your  having  accepted  the  honourable  and  responsible 
position  of  Foreign  Secretary  of  our  Society.  We  shall 
ever  pray  for  you. 

‘On  April  12  I had  granted  to  me  the  wish  and  the 
prayers  of  the  past  few  years  in  meeting  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Lawes  on  their  return  to  this  mission.  Mr.  Lawes 
will  reside  at  this  station  as  the  central  station  of  the 
New  Guinea  Mission.  I have  travelled  a little  in  New 
Guinea,  and  fancy  I know  more  of  the  country  and 
people  than  any  other  foreigner,  and  I know  of  no  place 
where  our  head  station  should  be  but  here,  and  no  better 
workers  to  occupy  it  than  those  who  bore  the  brunt  of 
first  opening  it  up.  We  all,  missionaries  and  teachers, 
feel  better  and  stronger  for  the  work  before  us  since  the 
arrival  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lawes,  and  have  now  a good 
hope  of  a bright  future. 

‘ Since  the  massacre  in  Hood  Bay,  reported  by  Mr.  Bes- 
wick,  I have  visited  Hula,  Kerepunu,  and  Aroma,  and 
am  only  sorry  we  have  no  teachers  to  restation  there  at 
once.  I should  have  visited  Kalo,  but  was  afraid  of  com- 
promising the  mission,  as  it  is  possible  they  may  be 
punished  for  the  outrage.  I fear  we  are  not  altogether 
free  from  blame.  The  teachers  are  often  indiscreet  in 
their  dealings  with  natives,  and  not  over  careful  in  what 
they  say.  We  have  also  been  niggardly  with  regard  to 
expense  at  times.  A very  few  pounds  spent  at  a station 
like  Kalo  in  the  first  years  would,  I believe,  have  prevented 


202 


Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

much  trouble  and  probably  these  murders.  The  Kalo 
natives  felt  that  Hula  and  Kerepunu  got  the  most  tobacco 
and  tomahawks,  and  that  their  share  was  small  indeed. 
Instead  of  our  buying  from  the  natives  all  the  thatch 
required  for  the  other  stations,  and  only  to  be  had  at 
Kalo,  we  told  the  teachers  with  their  boys  to  get  it. 
We  meant  well,  and  did  this  only  to  save  expense.  My 
experience  teaches  me  that  it  is  wise  to  throw  all  I 
legitimately  can  in  the  way  of  natives  not  connected  with 
our  head  station. 

‘ I have  heard  with  sorrow  that  it  is  intended  to  spend 
large  sums  of  money  in  the  setting  up  of  an  Institution 
on  Murray  Island.  The  world’s  end  will  have  come,  and 
New  Guinea  will  be  no  better  for  the  Gospel,  if  it  is  to 
be  worked  only  from  Alurray  Island,  than  it  was  twenty 
years  ago.  For  ten  years  mission  stations  have  been  in 
Torres  Straits,  as  “ stepping-stones  ” to  New  Guinea, 
but  New  Guinea  remains,  in  that  part,  the  same  as  it  did 
eleven  years  ago.  For  the  Torres  Straits  Mission,  which 
must  ever  be  considered  as  distinct  from  the  New  Guinea 
Mission,  Alurray  Island  is  useful ; as  a sanatorium  for  us 
and  our  teachers,  it  never  has  been  used  by  us,  nor  is  it 
ever  likely  to  be.’ 

The  massacre  referred  to  in  this  letter  was  a savage 
deed  of  cruelty  and  bloodshed  committed  in  March,  1881, 
at  the  instigation  of  the  chief  of  Kalo,  by  which  twelve 
persons  lost  their  lives.  This  was  for  a time  a terrible 
blow  to  mission  work  in  that  region,  and  it  tended  to 
deepen  the  public  sense  of  the  ferocity  of  the  natives. 
Four  native  teachers,  two  wives,  four  children,  and  two 
natives  of  Hula,  who  were  with  the  mission  party,  were 
all  barbarously  slain.  One  of  the  murdered  teachers 
was  Anederea,  who  had  been  a member  of  the  first  mis- 
sionary party  sent  out  to  New  Guinea  from  Rarotonga 


Anederea 


203 


during  Chalmers’  residence  on  that  island.  Chalmers  has 
left  on  record  a sketch  of  this  man,  in  which  he  describes 
the  massacre,  and  furnishes  a further  illustration  of  the 
high  quality  of  these  Polynesian  teachers. 

‘ Anederea  was  a native  of  Titikaveka,  Rarotonga. 
He  was  the  son  of  a good  man,  who  took  a great  interest 
in  mission  work.  The  son  for  a few  years  had  led  a 
wild,  reckless  life.  He  went  to  sea  on  board  of  a whale 
ship,  and  on  his  return  home  settled  down  to  orange- 
beer  drinking  and  to  other  evils.  I had  not  been  very 
long  on  Rarotonga  when  Anederea  professed  conversion, 
and  was  received  into  the  church  fellowship.  His  life 
became  altogether  changed,  and  he  was  a good  worker 
in  the  church.  Through  his  teacher  he  applied  to  be 
received  as  a student  into  the  Institution  of  which  I was 
then  in  charge.  I admitted  him,  and  during  his  six 
months’  probation  found  him  both  earnest  and  willing. 
He  got  on  well,  and  when  his  probation  was  over 
I received  him  as  a student.  He  worked  hard,  and 
was  soon  the  best  scholar  I had. 

‘ In  his  spare  time  I employed  him  in  the  printing  office, 
and  there  he  soon  developed  into  a good  compositor, 
and  an  aU  round  man  in  everything  pertaining  to 
printing.  He  began  to  fear  that  I meant  to  keep  him 
always  at  printing,  and  that  he  would  not  be  sent  to 
preach  Christ  to  the  heathen.  So  he  came  to  me  and 
resigned  all  connexion  with  the  printing  office,  and  said 
that  he  would  have  nothing  more  to  do  with  it  unless 
I faithfully  promised  him  he  should  certainly  be  sent  to 
the  heathen. 

‘ When  it  was  decided  to  send  teachers  from  Rarotonga 
to  New  Guinea  he  was  one  of  those  selected.  He  was 
in  great  spirits,  and  started  at  once  to  inform  his  Titi- 
kaveka friends.  As  a preacher  he  was  well  liked  every- 


204  Pioneering  from  1879  ^886 

where,  and  during  his  last  \'ear  he  had  preached  often 
at  the  villages  on  the  island.  His  wife  was  a g^od 
woman,  but  slow  and  somewhat  untidy,  whereas  he  was 
active  and  very  particular  about  his  clothing.  He 
helped  me  much  in  teaching,  especially  with  the  first 
year  students,  and  they  all  liked  him  as  a teacher.  He 
was  one  of  the  first  band  of  those  who  left  Rarotonga 
in  1872.  In  the  first  few  years  he  suffered  much  from 
fever,  and  lost  his  wife.  Some  time  after  he  married  the 
widow  of  a teacher,  a very  capable  woman,  and  a very" 
suitable  woman  in  eveiy*  way  to  be  his  wife.  She  was 
a Mangaian,  and  in  the  Xew  Guinea  Mission  the  Man- 
gaian  women  proved  themselves  to  be  excellent  mission- 
aries’ wives,  and  good  earnest  workers. 

‘ The  year  before  I reached  Xew  Guinea,  1876,  Ane- 
derea  was  placed  by  ^Ir.  Lawes  at  Kerepunu,  and  he 
and  his  wife  soon  learned  the  language,  and  the  people 
became  much  attached  to  them.  There  were  no  bap- 
tisms, but  the  few  children  who  attended  school  were 
more  advanced  than  those  from  anj’  other  station,  and 
at  our  first  competitive  examination  his  school  stood 
firsL  It  certainly  was  only  the  day  of  small  things,  but 
it  was  a good  beginning. 

‘In  the  beginning  of  1881  I was  at  Port  Moresby, 
doing  what  I could  to  translate  the  four  Gospels,  when 
one  morning  Taria,  the  Hula  teacher,  came  in  to  tell  me 
that  Anederea  was  very  iU,  and  to  ask  me  to  visit  him  or 
to  send  the  proper  medicine  for  him.  He  was  sufiering 
from  fever,  so  I gave  the  medicine,  and  sent  Taria  back 
immediately,  instructing  him  to  proceed  to  Kerepunu, 
ofive  the  medicine,  and  tell  Anederea  to  come  on  to 
Hula,  and  that  next  week  I would  send  the  boat  there 
for  him.  The  medicine  which  was  sent  he  took,  and  he 
felt  better,  and  a few  days  after  Taria  went  in  the  whale- 


The  Kalo  Massacre 


205 


boat  to  bring  him  with  his  wife  and  children  to  Hula. 
They  called  at  Kalo  on  their  return  to  take  Materua  and 
his  family  on  with  them. 

‘ That  morning  there  had  been  trouble  between  the 
teachers’  wives  and  chief’s  wife,  and  the  chief  of  Kalo 
and  his  party  determined  to  kill  all  the  teachers.  The 
boat  going  in  to  Kalo  offered  a good  opportunity  for 
a big  massacre,  one  which  the  savages  considered  a deed 
worth  talking  about. 

‘ Taria  landed,  leaving  the  others  in  the  boat.  Ane- 
derea,  his  wife  and  children,  were  sitting  aft,  and  Quaipo, 
the  chief,  stepped  into  the  boat  and  sat  down  beside  the 
teacher.  According  to  the  report  of  the  boat’s  crew 
the  chief  began  to  talk  about  Anederea’s  sickness,  and 
other  things.  A great  crowd  gathered  on  the  beach 
behind  the  boat,  and  most  of  the  natives  had  arms. 
Anederea  wondered  what  this  could  mean,  but  the  chief 
assured  him  that  it  was  all  right.  The  chief  had  stepped 
out  of  the  boat,  and  then  the  massacre  began.  He 
seized  a tomahawk  which  he  carried  in  his  netted  bag, 
and  struck  at  Anederea,  who  looking  at  him  said,  “ My 
friend,  surely  you  are  not  going  to  kill  us.”  The  chief 
struck  another  blow  on  Anederea’s  head,  and  he  fell 
dead.  All  the  other  teachers,  with  their  wives  and  chil- 
dren, were  massacred.  So  ended  a life  of  great  promise.’ 

This  savage  deed  created  such  a stir  that  the  British 
Government  sent  Commodore  Wilson,  in  his  flagship 
Wolverene,  to  secure  the  execution  of  the  instigator  of 
the  murders,  the  chief  Quaipo  The  missionaries 
were  strongly  against  this  action,  and  at  first  refused  to 
have  anything  to  do  with  it.  But  when  the  Wolverene 
returned  a second  time  Chalmers  yielded  to  the 

' See  Work  and  Adventure  in  New  Guinea  (1902),  chaps,  viii 
and  ix. 


2o6  Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

commodore’s  plea  that  his  presence  would  prevent 
much  bloodshed.  Quaipo  had  sent  Chalmers  the  g-enial 
message  that  he  would  not  be  satisfied  until  Tamate's 
skull  adorned  his  dubu.  Chalmers’  presence  acted  as 
the  commodore  anticipated.  He  was  able  to  prevent 
what  might  have  been  a wholesale  slaug-hter  of  the  Kalo 
natives.  Quaipo  and  his  men  resisted,  of  course,  but  in 
the  first  volley  fired  after  the  marines  landed  the  chief 
and  three  of  his  men  fell,  and  then  it  became  possible 
to  get  on  terms  with  the  people,  and  to  explain  to  them 
the  reason  of  the  commodore's  action.  Chalmers,  in 
referring  to  his  action,  said  : ‘ There  was  no  looting,  not 
a cocoa-nut  touched,  not  a pig  shot,  and  not  a woman  or 
child  molested.’ 

Lawes,  who  had  left  Xew  Guinea  somewhat  depressed 
and  discouraged  three  years  before,  found  upon  his  return 
new  life  and  hope  and  promise  in  the  work.  This,  so 
far  as  human  agency  was  concerned,  was  entirely  due 
to  the  clear  sight,  the  courage,  the  perseverance  and  the 
faith  of  Chalmers  and  his  heroic  wife.  A letter  from 
Lawes,  dated  April  2;,  1881,  shows  how  fully  he  shared 
Chalmers’  views  at  this  time. 

‘ I was  glad  to  find  a marked  improvement  in  the 
condition  of  the  natives  here.  They  have  become  honest, 
and  no  longer  plunder  us.  !Many  attend  school  and 
sendees.  Some  can  read  well,  and  better  stdl,  some  have 
been  baptized  and  formed  into  a church.  The  appearance 
of  the  place,  too,  is  a good  deal  changed  for  the  better. 
It  has  a more  settled  look,  and  we  may  reasonably  hope 
has  less  malaria  than  in  the  early  days. 

‘ I am  glad  to  find  that  ^Ir.  Chalmers  thinks  Port 
Moresby  the  most  important  station  we  have.  Unin- 
fluenced and  unsolicited  by  me  he  expresses  precisely 
the  opinions  I have  always  held  from  the  first  about  it. 


Work  on  Old  Lines 


207 


It  is  the  key  to  the  interior,  and  a most  important 
political  centre.  I am  very  glad  that  the  District 
Committee  has  asked  me  to  resume  my  work  here. 

‘ I hope  you  will  be  able  to  entertain  our  request  for 
help,  and  quickly  comply  with  it.  If  we  do  not  soon 
receive  it,  the  whole  of  the  Maiva  and  Elema  districts 
wiU  be  lost  to  us.  We  are  threatened  with  Roman 
Catholics  there,  and  if  they  come,  Yule  Island  and 
perhaps  Redscar  Head  will  be  the  western  limit  of  our 
mission.  We  are  not  playing  “ the  dog  in  the  manger  ” 
in  opposing  this  Roman  Catholic  invasion.  The  whole 
of  the  district  which  they  threaten  to  occupy  has  close 
and  intimate  connexion  with  this  place.  The  Elema 
and  Maiva  people  visit  us  here  annually,  and  the  Port 
Moresby  people  go  there  once  a year.’ 

Chalmers  in  his  own  vein,  somewhat  later  in  the  year, 
October  22,  1881,  placed  his  views  upon  the  general 
conditions  of  the  work  before  the  Directors : — 

‘ I prefer  any  amount  of  hard  work  here,  travelling  or 
otherwise,  to  writing  letters  or  reports.  As  to  our  work, 
criticize  it  gently  from  the  distance.  It  is  still  only 
planting  time,  and  who  can  tell  what  the  full-grown  ear 
will  be  ? As  for  dashing  reports,  they  are  to  be  decidedly 
deprecated.  Why,  if  you  wanted  a report  to  startle 
or  astonish  our  subscribers  and  the  public,  and  I had 
only  the  pen  of  a ready  writer,  I could  not  only  startle 
and  astonish,  but  I could  arouse  the  whole  body  of  our 
supporters,  so  that  for  a time  they  could  think  of  nothing 
else  than  New  Guinea.  The  work  done  during  the  last 
nine  years  is  quite  sufficient  for  this  purpose.  But  you 
must  look  through  comparison  glasses.  We  have  gone 
only  on  the  old  lines  of  Pauline  and  South  Sea  work,  and 
have  aimed  at  true,  successful  work — living,  preaching, 
teaching,  and  knocking  around  amongst  the  natives. 


2o8  Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

We  believe  that  even  a few  j^ears  so  spent  are  preferable 
to  many  years  of  many  men  and  the  constant  stream  of 
expense  that  will  be  needed,  if  the  plan  of  Murray  Island 
is  to  be  followed. 

‘A  few  weeks  ago  our  trading  canoes  went  right 
down  to  Vailala,  near  Bald  Head.  There  they  are  to 
remain  for  several  months,  and  vdth  them  is  one  of  our 
baptized  natives,  who  will  every  morning  and  evening 
conduct  service  for  the  crowd,  and  observe  the  Sabbaths 
with  three  services  and  no  trading.  He  will,  I doubt 
not,  use  every  effort  to  teach  the  Gulf  and  the  inland 
cannibals  the  truths  of  Christ’s  Gospel  so  far  as  he 
knows  them.  I shall  be  really  disappointed  if,  when 
I visit  them  a few  days  hence,  I am  not  able  to  report 
that  he  has  done  good  service. 

‘ I claim  the  coast  as  far  as  Bald  Head  for  this  district, 
and  with  Lawes  I am  prepared  to  work  it  in  personal 
contact  with  Christ’s  servants  living  amongst  the  people. 
We  think  morning  has  dawned  and  darkness  is  dis- 
appearing fast,  and  we  hope  that  soon  the  children  of 
the  light  will  be  carrying  that  light  to  other  and  distant 
tribes.’ 

In  October,  1881,  Chalmers  made  a long  trip  to 
Elema  This  was  a journey  full  of  interest  and  adven- 
ture, and  one  which  did  much  to  open  up  that  whole 
district  to  missionary  effort.  His  account  has  been 
printed  in  full,  but  the  following  letter,  which  accom- 
panied the  long  report  home,  has  not  before  been 
printed.  It  shotvs  that  Chalmers  was  quite  as  alive  to 
the  risks  and  dangers  of  the  work  he  was  doing  himself 
and  urging  upon  others  at  this  time,  as  he  was  to  the 
excitements  and  the  rewards.  On  November  15,  1881, 
he  wrote  to  Mr.  Thompson : — 

' See  Work  and  Adventure  in  New  Guinea  (1902),  chap.  x. 


209 


Trip  to  Elema 

‘ I am  well  aware  that  there  will  be  trials  innumerable, 
sickness  and  death,  many  dark  clouds  to  pass  through ; 
but  what  are  all  these  to  the  assured  results  ? Only  in 
daring  much  can  we  hope  for  much,  and  the  greater 
our  hope  the  greater  our  success.  With  thorough  Christ 
enthusiasm,  and  in  true  sympathy  with  Him  in  His 
great  work,  we  may  hope  for  much  in  a very  few  years. 
Why  should  we  be  so  niggardly  in  enthusiasm,  men, 
and  money,  and  so  nice  as  to  trials  and  hardships  ? ’ 

Towards  the  close  of  1882  Chalmers  and  Lawes  paid 
a visit  to  South  Cape,  the  scene  of  so  many  exciting 
incidents  and  of  such  tender  and  heroic  memories.  It 
was  impossible  to  avoid  noting  the  extraordinary  changes 
which  the  four  intervening  years  had  wrought.  The 
contrast  in  the  condition  of  the  natives  between  1878 
and  1882  was  a convincing  testimony  to  the  fact  that 
the  Gospel  has  lost  none  of  its  ancient  power  for  the 
uplifting  and  deliverance  of  man  from  savagery,  cruelty, 
and  sin.  From  Port  Moresby,  on  October  28,  1882, 
Chalmers  wrote  to  Mr.  Thompson,  indicating  the  great 
changes  that  had  taken  place  at  his  old  home : — 

‘ The  death  of  heathenism  reigned  when  we  landed  at 
the  east  end  of  New  Guinea  in  1878.  Many  who  then 
longed  and  laboured  for  the  spring  have  gone  home  to 
God,  assured  that  the  day  of  joy  would  dawn  and  that 
some,  though  few,  of  that  band  would  yet  see  the  first 
signs  of  life.  Generations  of  superstition  and  cruelty 
had  produced  a people  sunk  in  crime,  that  had  become 
a custom  and  religion,  a people  to  whom  murder  was 
a fine  art,  and  who  from  their  earliest  years  studied  how 
best  to  destroy  life.  Disease,  sickness,  death,  had  all 
been  accounted  for.  They  knew  nothing  of  malaria, 
filth,  or  contagion  as  causes  of  death,  and  traced  death 
to  the  action  of  an  enemy.  The  friends  of  those  who 


210 


Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

died  had  to  see  that  due  punishment  was  exacted. 
These  people  had  no  idea  of  a God  of  love,  but  only 
of  gods  and  spirits  who  were  revengeful  and  had  to  be 
appeased,  who  fly  about  in  the  night  and  disturb  the 
peace  of  homes.  They  lived  in  gross  darkness  and 
cruelty,  brother’s  hand  ever  raised  against  brother. 
Great  was  the  chief  who  claimed  many  skulls,  and  the 
youth  was  to  be  admired  who  could  wear  a jaw-bone  on 
his  arm,  as  a sign  that  he  had  slain  his  man. 

‘ All  these  things  were  changed  in  1882.  For  over 
two  years  there  have  been  no  cannibal  ovens,  no  feasts, 
no  human  flesh,  no  desire  for  skulls.  Tribes  that 
could  not  formerly  meet  except  to  fight  now  met  as 
friends,  and  sat  side  by  side  in  the  same  house,  worship- 
ping the  true  God.  Men  and  women  who,  on  the 
arrival  of  the  mission,  sought  the  missionaries’  lives, 
were  only  anxious  now  to  do  what  they  could  to  assist 
them,  even  to  the  washing  of  their  feet.  The  change 
came  about  in  the  same  way,  by  the  same  means,  and 
on  the  same  lines  as  in  the  many  islands  of  the  Pacific. 
In  the  sameness  of  the  Gospel  there  is  always  a fresh- 
ness of  true  life,  by  which  the  means  used  becomes  fresh 
and  living,  and  those  amongst  whom  the  work  is 
carried  on  feel  the  power  of  the  life  and  are  drawn  to 
it.  The  first  missionaries  landed  not  only  to  preach 
that  Gospel  of  divine  life  but  also  to  live  it,  and  to 
show  to  the  savage  a more  excellent  way  than  his  own. 
They  learned  the  dialect,  mixed  freely  with  them,  gave 
kindnesses,  received  the  same,  travelled  with  them, 
quarrelled  with  them,  made  friends,  assisted  them  in 
their  trading,  and  in  every  way  made  them  to  feel  that 
only  their  good  was  desired. 

‘ The  natives  thought  at  first  that  we  had  been  com- 
pelled to  leave  our  own  land  because  of  hunger.  The 


211 


Suau  in  1878  and  1882 

following’  conversation  took  place,  shortly  after  our 
arrival,  between  myself  and  the  people.  “ What  is  the 
name  of  your  country  ? ” “ Beritani.”  “ Is  it  a large 
land?”  “Yes.”  “What  is  your  chief?”  “ A woman 
named  Victoria.”  “ What,  a woman ! ” “ Yes,  and  she 

has  great  power.”  “Why  did  you  leave  your  country  ? ” 
“ To  teach  you,  and  to  tell  you  of  the  great  loving 
Spirit  who  loves  us  all.”  “ Have  you  cocoa-nuts  in  your 
country  ? ” “ No.”  “ Have  you  yams  ? ” “ No.”  “ Have 
you  taro  ? ” “ No.”  “ Have  you  sago  ? ” “ No.”  “ Have 
you  sweet  potatoes  ? ” “ No.”  “ Have  you  bread- 

fruit ? ” “ No.”  “ Have  you  plenty  of  hoop-iron  and 
tomahawks  ? ” “ Yes,  in  great  abundance.”  “We 

understand  now  why  you  have  come.  You  have  nothing 
to  eat  in  Beritani,  but  have  plenty  of  tomahawks  and 
hoop -iron  with  which  you  can  buy  food.” 

‘ It  was  useless  to  tell  them  we  had  plenty  of  food 
different  from  theirs,  and  that  want  of  food  did  not  send 
us  away  from  Beritani.  We  had  no  cocoa-nuts,  yams,  taro, 
or  sago,  and  who  could  live  without  these  ? Seeing  us 
opening  tinned  meat,  they  came  to  the  sage  conclusion 
that  we  too  were  cannibals,  and  had  man  cooked  in  our 
our  country  and  sent  out  to  us  ! 

^ We  had  not  been  long  at  Suau  before  we  translated 
into  their  language  “ Come  to  Jesus  ” and  “ I have  a 
Father  in  the  Promised  Land.”  Singing  greatly 
delighted  them,  and  often,  when  paddling  their  war 
canoes,  they  might  be  heard  droning  these  hymns. 
When  listening  to  them  I used  to  think  of  a broken 
home,  of  comforts  given  up,  and  of  attached  people  left 
far  away,  for  what  ? For  savages  singing,  shouting,  and 
ridiculing  the  little  they  had  learnt  in  these  hymns. 
Would  they  ever  come  to  know  Him  whom  to  know 
would  be  their  life  ? Were  they  worth  it  ? Would  they 

O 2 


212 


Pioneering  from  1879 

ever  receive  the  Gospel?  Would  the  superstition  and 
cannibalism  of  many  generations  give  way  to  the  light, 
love,  and  brotherUness  of  the  Cross  of  Christ  ? 

‘ Even  then  I thought  it  was  worth  all  the  toil  and 
cost ; since  in  time  these  evils  would  all  3*ield  to  the 
Gospel  God  is  Love,  seen  in  Christ ; this  was  the  life- 
word  we  brought  them.  Da}’  after  day  in  duty's  routine, 
not  in  hymn-singing,  praying,  or  preaching  in  pubhc,  as 
some  imagine  that  missionaries  spend  their  days,  the 
work  was  ever  going  on.  The  Gospel  was  working  its 
way  in  bush-clearing,  fencing,  planting,  house-building, 
and  many  other  forms  of  work,  through  fun,  play, 
feasting,  travelling,  joking,  laughing,  and  along  the 
ordinar}*  experiences  of  every-day  life. 

‘ Only  four  years  after  that  anxious  time  we  left 
Port  liloresby,  and  visited  aU  the  stations,  "^’e  arrived 
at  Suau  on  a Sunday.  Morning  service  was  over,  and 
from  the  vessel  we  saw  a number  of  natives,  well  dressed, 
standing  near  the  mission  house  waiting  to  receive  us. 
The  teachers  came  off,  and  with  them  several  lads,  all 
neady  dressecL  After  hearing  from  the  teachers  of  the 
work,  and  how  the  people  were  observing  the  Sabbath, 
we  landed,  and  were  met  by  a quiet,  orderly  lot  of  men, 
women,  and  lads,  who  welcomed  us  as  real  fiiends.  The 
first  to  shake  hands  with  me  was  a chief  from  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  bay,  who  in  early  days  gave  us  much 
trouble,  and  had  to  be  well  watched.  Now  he  was 
dressed,  and  his  appearance  much  altered.  It  was 
possible  to  meet  him,  and  to  feel  that  he  was  a fiiend. 

‘ We  were  astonished,  when  we  met  in  the  afternoon, 
at  the  orderly  service,  the  singing  of  hymns  translated 
by  Pi,  the  teacher,  and  the  attention  when  he  read 
a chapter  in  Mark’s  Gospel,  which  had  been  translated 
by  him  from  the  Rarotongan  into  the  dialect  of  Suau, 


213 


Suau  in  1878  and  1882 

When  he  preached  to  them  all  listened  attentively,  and 
seemed  to  be  anxious  not  to  forget  a single  word.  Two 
natives  prayed  with  great  solemnity  and  earnestness. 
After  the  service  all  remained,  and  were  catechized  on 
the  sermon,  and  then  several  present  stood  up  and 
exhorted  their  friends  to  receive  the  Gospel.  Many 
strangers  were  present,  and  they  were  exhorted  to  come 
as  often  as  possible  and  hear  the  good  news,  and  then 
again  others  offered  prayer.  We  found  that  numbers 
came  in  on  the  Saturday  with  food  and  cooking-pots, 
and  remained  until  Monday  morning.  They  lived  with 
the  teachers,  and  attended  all  services,  beginning  with 
a prayer  meeting  on  Saturday  night. 

‘ Thus  the  Gospel  shows  itself  still  the  power  of 
God  unto  salvation,  the  life  and  light-giver  to  those  in 
darkness.  Before  faithful  preaching  and  earnest  living 
Satan’s  strongholds  yield.  But  it  is  evident  that 
mission  work  can  be  done  only  by  direct  contact  with 
the  people.  If  the  Gospel  is  to  be  preached  through- 
out New  Guinea,  it  will  have  to  be  by  living  on  New 
Guinea,  where  the  people  can  see,  hear,  and  feel  the 
glad  news  we  have  to  tell  them. 

‘ I am  astonished  at  the  apparent  fear  and  nervousness 
felt  elsewhere  concerning  our  climate  and  the  natives. 
The  natives  are  savages,  and  are  often  very  cruel,  but 
once  get  to  know  them,  and  you  love  them,  and  seek 
their  good.  The  climate  is  as  savage  as  the  people,  and 
to  it  many  have  succumbed.  But  others,  notwithstanding 
many  attacks  of  fever,  have  for  years  done  good  work. 
When  once  acclimatized  little  is  thought  of  a shaking 
fever  attack.  In  a few  hours  it  is  over,  and  then  the 
sick  man  is  up  and  at  work  again.  We  have  Eastern 
Polynesian  teachers  who  have  been  on  New  Guinea  for 
ten  years,  who  have  done  good  work,  and  are  as  fresh 


214  Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

for  work  to-day  as  then.  Is  it  impossible  to  find 
missionaries  who  wiU  o-ladlv  dare  all  for  Christ  ? Not 

O V 

the  “ life  in  hand  ” business,  or  the  “ sacrifices  I have 
made  ” ; but  men  and  women  who  think  preaching  and 
living  the  Gospel  to  the  heathen  the  grandest  work  on 
earth,  and  the  orreatest  of  Heaven’s  commissions.  We 
want  missionaries  like  the  men  Colonel  Gordon  defines. 
He  sa}-s,  “ Find  me  the  man,  and  I wiU  take  him  as  my 
help,  who  utterly  despises  money,  name,  honour,  and 
glory ; one  who  never  wishes  to  see  his  home  again,  one 
who  looks  to  God  as  the  source  of  good  and  controller 
of  evil ; one  who  has  a healthy  body  and  energetic 
spirit,  and  one  who  looks  on  death  as  a release  from 
misery.” 

‘ Leave  the  twaddle  of  sacrifices  for  those  who  do  not 
appreciate  the  sacrifice  of  the  Cross.  Let  the  church 
give  her  verj*  best  in  heart,  mind,  and  body,  for  Christ’s 
world  work.  The  best  and  greatest  of  all  works  requires 
the  best  and  Greatest  men.  We  want  men  who  will 

o 

thoroughly  enjoy  all  kinds  of  roughing  it,  who  will  be 
glad  when  ease  and  comfort  can  be  had,  but  who  will  look 
upon  all  that  comes  as  only  the  pepper  and  salt,  giving 
zest  to  work,  and  creating  the  appetite  for  more.  The 
har\'est  ripens  fast,  where  shall  we  look  for  labourers  ? 
The  Master  has  said.  Pray!  May  they  soon  be  sent! 
The  light  is  being  sown,  the  darkness  is  breaking,  the 
thick  clouds  are  moving,  and  the  hidden  ones  are 
being  gathered  in.’ 

The  years  1880-2  were  a period  of  great  development 
in  New  Guinea,  but  one  of  considerable  misapprehension 
at  home.  Mr.  Macfarlane  was  in  England  from  1879 
until  May,  1882,  and  had  the  ear  of  the  Directors. 
Chalmers  and  he  differed  entirely  as  to  the  lines  upon 
which  the  mission  should  move.  But  such  were  the 


Tobacco  as  Currency  215 

energy  and  resolution  displayed  by  Tamate  that  in 
the  end  the  Directors  came  to  see  and  to  admit  fully  the 
wisdom  and  promise  of  his  plans.  And  time  has  justified 
him.  To-day  the  hopeful  parts  of  the  mission  in  New 
Guinea  are  the  stations  which  Chalmers  laboured  so 
hard,  during  the  years  1878  to  1882,  to  found  and  to 
sustain. 

But  early  in  1883  the  divergence  of  view  between 
Chalmers  and  Lawes,  on  the  one  hand,  and  Macfarlane 
on  the  other,  as  to  the  method  of  conducting  the  New 
Guinea  Mission,  reached  an  acute  stage.  The  feeling  was 
intensified  by  the  fact  that  hitherto  the  home  authorities 
had  leaned  rather  to  Macfarlane’s  views.  Chalmers 
held  that  a missionary  should  live  in  the  closest  touch 
with  the  natives  he  was  endeavouring  to  uplift ; that  he 
should  visit  the  native  teachers  who  were  holding  the 
hard  places  of  the  field  frequently,  and  stay  with  them  at 
times  as  long  as  possible.  He  did  not  conceal  his  view 
that  to  effectively  work  the  New  Guinea  Mission  from 
Murray  Island  was,  in  1882,  an  impossibility,  and  that  the 
methods  advocated  by  Mr.  Macfarlane,  though  possibly 
good  in  theory,  were  not  capable  of  useful  practical 
application  in  that  stage  of  the  mission. 

Macfarlane  had  also  raised  an  objection  to  what  he 
considered  an  excessive  use  of  tobacco  in  the  work. 
And  at  first  sight  it  must  be  admitted  that  it  is  hardly  in 
accordance  with  the  views  of  the  average  British  supporter 
and  friend  of  missionary  effort  to  believe  that  tobacco 
can  be  an  effective  evangelizing  agent.  Yet  this  is  only 
one  of  the  many  illustrations  of  how  unwise  it  is  to  apply 
the  views  and  habits  of  an  old  Christian  civilization  like 
our  own  to  heathen  and  to  savage  countries,  and  to 
expect  to  find  that  what  obtains  with  us  will  obtain 
equally  well  with  them.  To  an  oflScial  letter  from  home 


2i6  Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

on  this  tobacco  question  Lawes,  on  February  6,  1883, 
wTote  an  instructive  reply : — 

‘ The  quantity  of  tobacco  used  is  large  in  the  aggre- 
gate, but  it  has  to  be  divided  among  twenty  teachers  and 
missionaries.  Each  teacher  uses  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  pounds  of  tobacco  a year.  It  is  really  the  currency 
here;  houses  and  churches  are  built  with  it,  boats  are 
pulled  by  it,  gardens  and  fences  made  with  it ; it  is  our 
wood  and  water,  our  fruit,  vegetables,  and  fish  ; it  is  the 
sign  of  peace  and  friendship,  the  key  which  opens  the 
door  for  better  things,  and  (as  I so  often  stated  in  England) 
the  shortest  way  to  a New  Guinean’s  heart  is  through 
his  tobacco-pipe.  You  will,  perhaps,  regret  that  so 
much  tobacco  is  used,  and  so  do  we,  but  you  must  not 
think  of  the  short  black  pipes  which  adorn  (or  otherwise) 
the  corners  of  so  many  English  mouths,  nor  associate  it 
with  its  accompanying  English  vices. 

‘ I have  no  predilections  in  favour  of  the  weed.  I am 
a non-smoker,  I have  never  had  cigar  or  pipe  in  my 
mouth,  and  until  I came  here  had  never  handled  a piece 
of  tobacco.  But  I entirely  fail  to  see  either  the  harm 
done  by  it  to  the  natives,  or  the  possibility  of  substituting 
anything  else  for  it.  If  we  dispensed  with  the  use  of  it, 
the  expenses  of  this  mission  would  be  increased  at  least 
twelve-fold.  We  should  have  to  give  a tomahawk  which 
cost  a shilling  where  we  now  give  tobacco  which  cost 
a penny.  And  even  then  we  could  not  manage,  for 
you  cannot  divide  a tomahawk  as  you  can  a stick  of 
tobacco.  When  we  first  came  small  red  beads  were  in 
great  demand,  and  formed  the  small  change  of  every- 
day life,  but  they  will  hardly  take  them  as  a gift  now. 
The  natives  say  that  when  they  come  home  from  fishing 
or  hunting,  tired  and  faint,  a smoke  is  better  than  a meal. 
The  oldest  man  here,  one  of  the  chiefs,  who  received  the 


Tobacco  as  Currency  217 

teachers  into  his  house  when  they  came  ten  years  ago, 
is  a great  lover  of  his  pipe.  I have  told  him  sometimes 
that  tobacco  was  no  good,  but  he  always  looks  grave 
and  earnest,  and  says,  “ Misi,  if  I had  no  tobacco  I should 
die.”  I should  be  very  sorry  not  to  be  able  to  gladden 
his  heart  with  a piece  of  tobacco  now  and  then.  Of 
course  I do  not  know  whether  all  this  about  its  soothing 
qualities  is  true,  but  no  doubt  some  gentlemen  on  the 
Board  can  tell  you  from  their  own  experience. 

‘ It  is  better,  we  think,  to  get  the  supply  of  tobacco  as 
we  have  done,  and  let  the  teachers  have  all  they  want. 
It  is  impossible  for  them  to  do  without  it.  They  can 
only  raise  a very  small  quantity  of  native  food,  but  they 
need  never  be  without  it  if  they  have  tobacco.  The 
people  will  work  readily  in  fencing,  building,  and  aU 
kinds  of  labour,  and  the  women  will  keep  them  supplied 
with  wood  and  water  for  tobacco,  when  nothing  else 
will  induce  them  to  move.  Of  course  you  understand 
the  cost  of  what  they  have  comes  out  of  their  annual 
salary  of  twenty  pounds.’ 

A year  later,  February  ii,  1884,  Chalmers,  in  writing 
to  the  Directors,  dealt  with  this  same  matter  in  vigorous 
fashion : — 

‘ I have  read  Mr.  Whitehouse’s  letter  to  Mr.  Lawes,  and 
I am  astonished  at  the  ignorance  of  our  mission  shown 
by  the  authorities  at  the  mission  house. 

‘ I.  Long  ago  I wrote  to  Dr.  Mullens  that  missionaries 
should  come  here  as  single  men  for  at  least  two  years, 
and  I am  now  more  convinced  than  ever  that  I was  right. 
The  sooner  young  missionaries  are  sent  the  better,  so 
that  they  become  acclimatized,  and  get  accustomed  to 
the  work.  If  we  two  old  stagers  are  left  alone  much 
longer,  what  is  to  be  the  future  of  the  mission  ? So  far 
as  I know  you  have  no  other  mission,  unless  it  be  Central 


2i8  Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

Africa,  circumstanced  as  we  are.  Believing  as  we  do 
in  direct  contact  with  natives,  and  in  sharing  with  our 
teachers  the  climate  and  all  dangers  of  the  work,  vou 
must  get  men  willing  for  Christ's  sake  to  endure,  and 
look  upon  all  that  happens  as  pepper  and  salt  to 
missionary  work. 

‘ 2.  I would  say,  leave  the  tobacco  question  alone ; we 
only  can  manage  it.  I use  the  weed  myself,  and  have 
found  it  a good  friend  in  many  strange  places  and 
amongst  very  peculiar  people,  Mr.  Macfarlane  has  been 
leading  you  astray  in  saying  that  at  the  east  end  the 
work  was  done  without  missionaries  or  tobacco.  The 
statement  is  altogether  inaccurate  No  mission  was  better 
nursed  by  missionaries  than  the  east  end.  MTen  iMr. 
Macfrrlane  was  living  on  Murray  Island,  and  afterwards 
in  England,  your  missionaries  tended  the  teachers  that 
had  been  placed  by  him  at  the  east  end  as  they  had 
never  been  tended  before,  and  the  teachers  themselves 
have  said  such  things  to  me  as  I had  better  not  report. 
Tobacco  is  and  has  been  as  much  used  at  the  east  end 
as  here,  and  perhaps  much  more.  !Mr.  Macfarlane's  own 
teachers  have  again  and  again  said,  “ Suppose  no  tobacco, 
no  man  come  church  or  come  see  us.”  I am  chary,  verj* 
much  so  indeed,  of  missionary  reports  which  do  not 
state  aU  the  frets,  and  I join  outsiders  in  protesting 
against  the  way  in  which  frets  are  sometimes  dressed 
so  as  to  look  well  in  a report. 

‘ 3.  We  are  friends  of  the  native  race,  and  shall  ever 
continue  such,  and  you  need  not  fear  that  flattery  or 
abuse  wiU.  turn  us  aside.  The  latter  we  are  having-  in 
abundance,  and  I am  now  often  stated  by  vile  tongues  to 
be  guilty  of  ever\’  sin  in  the  decalogue,  the  latest  charge 
laid  to  my  account  being  that  of  murder.  The  annexation 
is  no  bubble,  but  wiU  soon  be  an  accomplished  frcL 


Differences  of  View 


219 


The  natives  have  from  the  beginning  looked  upon  us  as 
their  friends  and  defenders,  and  have  never  doubted  it, 
and  we  shall  never  give  them  occasion  to  doubt  it,  in 
whatever  position  we  may  find  ourselves.’ 

Another  matter  of  considerable  difficulty  in  the  early 
days  in  New  Guinea  was  the  rule  of  the  Society  that  all 
matters  affecting  a mission  are  to  be  considered  by 
a District  Committee  composed  of  all  the  missionaries 
at  work  in  that  field.  From  such  a committee  the 
Directors  expected  to  receive  suggestions  and  guidance 
as  to  the  best  way  of  doing  the  work;  and  to  it,  in 
order  to  receive  its  collective  judgement,  all  matters  of 
difficulty  which  arise  are  referred  for  consideration. 
This  rule  has  always  been  found  difficult  to  work  in  New 
Guinea,  because  the  missionaries  are  scattered  over  a 
vast  expanse,  and  because  language  and  other  difficulties 
render  what  is  suitable  to  one  region  quite  unsuitable 
to  another.  And  it  required  little  foresight  to  predict 
that  a District  Committee,  composed  of  Chalmers  and 
Lawes  on  the  one  side  and  Macfarlane  on  the  other,  was 
not  likely  to  be  unanimous.  So  far  were  they  from 
agreement  that  after  one  meeting  in  Jtine,  1882,  they  for 
years  gave  up  the  attempt  to  hold  any  others. 

This  was  not  in  accord  with  home  instructions  and 
regulations,  and  consequently  on  May  3,  1885,  Lawes 
sent  home  the  following  letter: — 

‘ I am  sorry,  in  some  respects,  that  the  two  branches 
of  the  mission  are  not  drawn  closer  together,  but  the 
divergence  was  greater  in  Mr.  Beswick’s  time  than  now ; 
and  the  separation  was  just  as  great  between  Macfarlane 
and  Chalmers,  Dr.  W.  Tmner,  Dr.  Ridgley,  Mr.  Tait 
Scott,  respectively,  as  between  Macfarlane  and  myself. 

‘ In  reply  to  your  question  about  the  non-holding  of 
an  annual  committee  meeting,  I have  only  to  say  that, 


220 


Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

except  the  one  in  June,  1882,  none  have  been  held  since 
my  return  four  years  ago.  At  the  Directors’  request 
a committee  meeting  was  held  on  the  arrival  of  Mr. 
Macfarlane,  to  decide  details  about  the  Institution  build- 
ings. The  committee  decided  unanimouslj'  on  Darnley 
Island  as  the  most  suitable  headquarters  of  the  western 
branch;  but  Mr.  Macfarlane  began  immediately  to  put 
up  the  buildings  on  Murray  Island.  He  had,  no  doubt, 
good  reasons  for  this  action  of  which  we  knew  nothing. 
I only  mention  it  to  show  what  a farce  a committee 
meeting  is,  where  the  two  missions  are  so  distant  from 
each  other,  and  the  members  of  a committee  so  few. 

‘ All  matters  of  importance  are  submitted  both  by  him 
and  by  us  to  the  Directors  direct,  and  what  is  the  use  of 
our  considering  matters  of  detail,  when  we  are  entire 
strangers  to  the  particular  plan  which  necessitates  them  ? 
Mr.  Macfarlane  and  Mr.  Scott  are  strangers  to  our 
mission  here  and  its  needs,  while  Chalmers  and  I are 
equally  so  to  their  mission.  A compact  mission,  where 
the  language,  agents,  and  country  are  the  same,  even 
though  very  much  larger  than  ours,  may  be  worked  by 
a committee ; but  we  have  nothing  in  common  except 
the  desire  to  ser^’^e  our  common  Lord  and  Master. 
Language,  teachers,  climate,  people,  all  are  different. 
When  each  mission  has  four  members,  then  you  may 
work  each  by  a committee ; but  until  then  it  will  only 
be  a form  and  a farce,  and  any  attempt  to  unite  the  two 
branches  will  for  some  years  to  come  be  a miserable  failure.’ 

In  later  years,  when  the  number  of  missionaries  had 
increased,  the  practice  of  holding  district  committee 
meetings  was  resumed. 

A series  of  excerpts  from  the  private  and  oflScial 
correspondence  of  Chalmers  will  illustrate  his  life  and 
work  from  1881  to  1886.  His  work  and  influence  in 


Unwillingness  to  return  Home  221 

the  proclamation  of  the  Protectorate  and  the  Annexation 
— unique  services  rendered  freely  to  the  Imperial  officers 
which  filled  up  a large  part  of  his  time  during  the  years 
1884  and  1885 — are  dealt  with  in  the  next  chapter. 

November  14,  1881. 

‘ My  dear  Pastor : If  the  Directors  undertake  as 
I now  suggest  to  them,  you  will  see  there  is  litde 
chance  of  my  soon  being  home.  The  work  only  gathers 
as  time  slips  along.  Often  “ my  spirit  takes  a flight  far 
awa’  to  bonnie  Scotland,”  but  what  does  it  matter ! 
The  sun  in  its  zenith  might  go  down  before  the  shadows 
lengthen,  and  in  its  strength  we  had  better  work.  And 
I am  better  here.  Love  to  you  all  I ' 

January  9,  1883. 

* My  dear  Mr.  Whitehouse : I thoroughly  appre- 
ciate the  kindness  of  the  Directors  in  their  pressing 
invitation  that  1 should  visit  Britain,  if  practicable,  very 
soon.  Ever  since  I left  England,  seventeen  years  ago, 
I have  experienced  nothing  but  kindness  from  the 
Mission  House,  and  should  be  sorry  not  to  comply  with 
the  wish  so  kindly  meant,  but  I do  not  see  how  I can 
possibly  leave  at  present.  We  are  beginning  new  work 
in  the  training  of  native  evangelists,  and  have  also  begun 
work  in  the  Gulf.  We  expect  a reinforcement  of  native 
teachers  from  the  South  Seas  this  year,  and  I feel  that 
I ought  to  be  here  to  receive  them,  and  to  see  them 
settled  in  their  new  stations.  I did  hope  not  to  go 
home  until  the  Gospel  had  been  introduced  as  far  west 
as  Orokolo,  and  until  in  the  east  the  line  of  stations  from 
South  Cape  to  Aroma  met.  Thus  the  present  is,  I think, 
a very  unsuitable  time  for  my  leaving  the  mission. 
I am  in  excellent  health,  and  as  well  able  to  undertake 
work  as  ever  I have  been.  Would  1884  suit  as  well? 
I think  I might  then  leave  for  a time. 


222 


Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

‘ I am  deterred  from  going-  home  also  by  the  thought 
of  deputation  work.  I dislike  public  speaking,  and 
I soon  sicken  of  hearing  myself  tell  the  same  storj’- 
or  stories  over  and  over  again.  Rather  than  go  home 
engaged  to  do  deputation  work  I would  risk  climate^ 
savages,  and  sea  and  land  travelling ; the  former  in 
open  boats,  and  the  latter  carrying  my  own  swag  on 
New  Guinea.  All  I ask  is  to  be  relieved  whilst  in 
Britain  ot  regular  deputation  work,  and  to  be  allowed 
to  return  here  as  soon  as  possible,  I might  mention 
that,  seventeen  years  ago,  I left  England  expecting 
never  to  return.’ 

March  9,  1883. 

‘ My  dear  Pastor : The  work  increases,  and  consoli- 
dates, and  helps  to  keep  us  braced.  We  opened  the  New 
Guinea  College  in  the  beginning  of  the  year,  and  have 
already  twelve  students  and  their  wives.  These  are 
Christian  men  and  women  being  trained  as  evangelists 
to  their  own  people.  The  great  work  of  the  future  will 
depend  on  such  men  and  women,  and  I hope  ere  many 
years  have  gone  we  shall  be  able  to  do  without  South 
Sea  Island  teachers.  We  have  at  present  many  impor- 
tant openings.  We  are  much  troubled  by  the  labour 
question,  having  heard  that  the  Queensland  Government 
have  decided  on  visiting  our  coast  for  the  purpose  of 
securing  cheap  labour.  They  will  get  no  natives  honesdy, 
and  those  they  get  dishonestly  will  be  paid  for  by  inno- 
cent blood  being  shed.  It  is  a hateful  traffic ; nothing- 
more  or  less  than  slavery.’ 

May  18, 1883. 

‘ My  dear  Hutchin  ^ : You  wonder  if  we  shall  meet. 
I ho^e  so.  I often  live  in  the  past  and  try  to  plan  the 

^ The  Rev.  J.  J.  K.  Hutchin  was  Mr.  Chalmers’  successor  in  the 
care  of  the  Mission  on  Rarotonga. 


^ Never  repented  leaving  Rarotonga'  223 

future — only  the  one  plan.  All  the  future  I leave  to  day 
by  day,  and  one  hope  is  that  I may  some  day  visit  Raro- 
tonga, and  see  again  the  people  I loved  and  love  dearly. 
We  were  ten  years  to  a day  on  Rarotonga ; they  were 
happy  years.  I know  all  her  nooks  and  corners,  her 
mountain  tops  and  valleys,  and  most  of  her  vices,  and 
much  of  her  goodness,  and  I can  only  say,  “ Rarotonga, 
I love  thee  still.” 

‘ During  the  last  six  years  I have  known  little  of  home 
life,  have  spent  much  time  in  queer  places  and  with  as 
queer  people,  have  had  a good  share  of  fever,  several 
narrow  escapes  from  spears  and  clubs,  travelled  many 
thousands  of  miles  in  boats,  and  many,  many  weary  ones 
on  land  carrying  my  own  swag,  and  have  lost  what  to 
me  was  more  than  life — yet  I have  never  repented 
leaving  Rarotonga,  and  would  even  more  willingly  now 
do  the  same,  notwithstanding  all.’ 

August  17,  1883. 

* My  dear  Hutchin  : I am  again  asked  home,  but  fancy 
myself  too  uncivilized  for  home  society,  being  a kind  of 
New  Guinean,  and  more  at  home  with  savages  than 
veneered  humanity/ 

Mr.  Thomas  Ridgley,  who  had  been  sent  out  in  1881 
to  New  Guinea  as  a medical  missionary,  but  who  had 
almost  immediately  retired  from  the  mission,  writing 
from  Townsville,  Australia,  on  August  18,  1883,  after 
announcing  the  death  of  Mr.  Beswick,  says,  ‘ Chalmers 
has  been  on  a visit  to  me,  and  has  been  bad  with  fever. 
He  was  looking  shaky,  and  certainly  ought  to  go  to 
England  for  a good  holiday ; but  his  whole  heart  is  in 
New  Guinea,  and  I fear  his  zeal  may  lead  him  to  defer 
taking  a hoHday  until  he  is  worn  out  with  these  repeated 


224  Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

attacks  of  fever,  and  by  the  rough  work  he  is  always 
doing.’ 

In  October,  1883,  Chalmers  started  upon  what  was, 
perhaps,  the  most  extraordinary  of  his  many  remarkable 
New  Guinea  expeditions.  The  reader  is  by  this  time 
familiar  with  the  eager  desire  Chalmers  had  long  felt  to 
secure  footholds  for  mission  work  at  suitable  stations 
along  the  Gulf  of  Papua  to  the  west  of  Redscar  Bay  and 
Cape  Possession.  He  had  been  able  to  pay  one  or  two 
flying  \asits  to  this  district,  which  was  all  the  more 
attractive  to  him  because  of  the  fierce  nature  of  the 
natives,  and  because  it  was  only  b}’’  extending  in  this 
direction  tliat  he  could  get  near  to  the  cannibals  of 
Namau.  Every  October  the  natives  of  Port  jMoresby, 
who  are  skilled  in  the  manufacture  of  pottery,  send 
large  native  vessels  called  lakatois^  formed  by  lashing 
several  canoes  together  into  one  large  vessel,  laden  with 
potter)^  which  is  exchanged  for  sago.  The  Elema 
district  is  famous  for  its  sago,  and  this  annual  exchange 
was  at  the  time  the  only  great  form  of  native  trade. 
Chalmers  on  October  5 started  upon  a voyage  to  Vailala, 
upon  a great  lakatoi^  formed  of  four  canoes  lashed 
together,  named  the  Kevaubada,  containing  all  told, 
crew  and  passengers,  thirty-five  souls.  The  vessel  on 
which  he  sailed  was  one  of  a fleet  all  bound  westwards 
for  the  same  purpose. 

This  was  the  first  time  in  the  annals  of  New  Guinea 
that  such  a vojmge  had  been  made  by  a white  man,  and 
only  a man  like  Chalmers  could  have  endured  the  hard- 
ships involved,  and  yet  have  looked  upon  them  only  as 
‘ the  pepper  and  salt  of  life.’  He  of  course  knew  the 
language  sufficiently  well  to  get  along  wnth  the  crew, 
and  there  were  included  in  its  numbers  some  Christian 


First  Visit  to  Orokolo 


225 


natives  from  Port  Moresby.  The  voyage  and  all  that  it 
involved  are  fully  described  in  chapters  i and  ii  of 
Pioneering  in  New  Guinea^  so  we  can  dismiss  it  here 
in  brief  space.  On  October  10,  after  a voyage  of  five 
days  and  nights,  he  reached  his  destination  and  landed. 
He  wrote  of  it,  ‘ So  ends  my  trip  on  board  the  Motu 
lakatoi\  I enjoyed  it  much ; it  was  unique,  and  I shall 
not  soon  forget  the  kindness  of  all  on  board.  I was 
more  comfortable  than  I could  have  been  on  board 
the  whaleboat,  in  which  I have  often  to  make  long 
voyages.’ 

From  Vailala  Chalmers  managed  another  matter  upon 
which  his  heart  had  long  been  fixed — a visit  to  Orokolo, 
by  which  he  secured  the  friendship  of  its  cannibal  chiefs. 
He  was  welcomed  by  Ipaivaitani,  the  chief  of  Maipua, 
and  a great  dubu  was  placed  at  his  disposal  during  his 
stay.  ‘ The  temple  is  the  finest  thing  of  the  kind  I have 
yet  seen.  The  front  is  about  thirty  feet  wide,  and  the 
whole  length  about  160  feet,  tapering  gradually  down  to 
the  back,  where  it  is  small.  In  each  of  the  courts  or 
divisions  are  skulls  of  men,  women,  children,  croco- 
diles, and  wild  boars.  The  human  skulls  are  of  those 
who  have  been  killed  and  eaten.  The  daintiest  dish  here 
is  man.  The  passage  down  the  centre,  which  I walked 
along,  had  the  appearance  of  glazed  cloth,  with  figures 
carved  on  it.  It  was  carpeted  with  the  outer  skin  of 
the  sago  palm,  glazed  by  the  blood  of  the  victims  so 
frequently  dragged  over  it.’ 

Chalmers’  two  native  helpers,  Aruako  and  Arua- 
daera,  preached  in  this  huge  temple  to  a crowd  of 
savages,  real  cannibals.  ‘ It  was  a weird  scene,  and  it 
was  the  most  attentive  congregation  of  the  kind  I have 
ever  met.  They  listened  well.  Soon  after  sunset  it 
began,  and  when  I sought  sleep  it  was  still  going  on. 


226  Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

\\Tien  I awoke,  and  the  sun  had  preceded  me,  they 
were  still  talking  and  listening.  Looking  at  Aruako, 
who  was  quite  hoarse,  I said,  “ Have  you  been  at  it  aU 
night  ? ” ^.es,  but  I am  now  at  Jesus  Christ,  and  must 

tell  them  all  about  Him.”  Yes,  my  friend  had  reached 
Him  to  whom  we  all  must  come  for  light  and  help  and 
peace.  \Mien  Aruako  had  finished,  there  was  but  one 
response  from  all  their  lips,  “ Xo  more  fighting, 
Tamate,  no  more  man-eating;  we  have  heard  the  good 
news,  and  we  shall  strive  for  peace.”  ’ 

We  resume  the  excerpts  from  the  correspondence  of 
this  period ; — 

April  12,  1884. 

‘ My  dear  Thompson : M’e  shall  soon  have  an  intel- 
ligent band  of  Xew  Gifinea  evangelists,  but  to  do  without 
South  Sea  Islanders  entirely  would,  I believe,  gready 
interfere  with  the  church  life  in  the  South  Seas. 
I cannot  see  how  I am  to  get  away  at  present  so  as 
to  visit  Britain  ; next  year  I may.  If  the  Directors  are 
anxious  I should  have  a holiday,  I would  prefer  spend- 
ing it  in  Xew  Guinea  in  opening  up  the  way  into  the 
great  interior  for  the  Gospel  M'ith  a few  South  Sea 
Islanders  I believe  I could  cross  from  Bald  Head  to 
Astrolabe  Bay,  or  even  much  west  of  that,  and  at  litde 
expense.  I have  travelled  over  much  more  of  Xew 
Guinea  than  any  other  man,  white  or  black,  and  have 
always,  when  travelling,  enjoyed  excellent  health.’ 

April  4,  18S4. 

‘ My  dear  Pastor : Another  thing  that  has  hindered 
me  from  writing  is  that  I became  a “ Special  Corre- 
spondent ” and  an  “ Own  Correspondent  ” for  one  of  the 
Colonial  leading  papers ; an  unen\Table  business,  and 
coinless  withaU.  Friendship  led  me  into  it.  1 am  now 


227 


A Peace^making  Expedition 

sending  a paper,  but  think  of  giving  up.  My  papers 
have  not  been  unacceptable,  as  I have  been  asked  to 
become  a member  of  the  Royal  Queensland  Institute, 
and  to  allow  my  papers  to  be  collected,  and  reprinted 
in  book  form  for  the  Institute.  So  much  for  egotism. 

‘ Since  writing  you  last  I have  had  several  attacks  of 
fever,  the  last,  so  friends  thought,  about  ending  all.  Now 
I am  in  excellent  health,  and,  except  my  knees,  strong 
and  well,  as  of  long  ago.  Some  time  ago  we  had  news- 
paper correspondents  doing  New  Guinea,  and  one  of 
them  got  into  trouble  with  the  natives,  shot  one  dead 
and  wounded  others.  Well,  I determined  on  making 
peace  and  friendship,  and  started  for  inland.  Other 
tribes  hearing  of  my  visit  begged  for  my  assistance  in 
bringing  them  together  and  making  peace. 

‘ It  was  a long,  long,  weary,  wet  walk,  but  I accom- 
plished aU,  and  returned  in  a week.  I walked,  say  170 
miles,  climbed  in  all  about  20,000  feet,  and  in  rain,  cross- 
ing rivers  and  mountain  torrents.  My  natives  were 
dead  beat,  and  I had  to  leave  them  a stage  from  Port 
Moresby.  We  preach  the  Gospel  in  many  ways; 
one  of  our  best  at  present  is  making  peace  between 
tribes. 

* God  is  blessing  His  work,  and  one  after  another  seeks 
to  be  taught.  It  would  gladden  your  heart  were  you  to 
see  the  church  here,  especially  on  Communion  Sabbath, 
when  many  earnest  men  and  women  commemorate  our 
Lord’s  death.  Our  college  prospers.  We  have  fourteen 
students,  who  are  making  good  progress  in  knowledge. 
Mr.  Lawes  takes  this  department.  I open  up,  and 
superintend  outside — a kind  of  Bohemian.  The  school 
work  does  not  flourish  as  I should  like  to  see  it;  our 
teachers  do  not  take  kindly  to  school  teaching.  Teach- 
ing children  A,  B,  C is  dry,  uninteresting  work,  but 


228  Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

when  faithfully  done  the  results  are  good  payment  for 
the  labour.’ 

April  19,  1884. 

‘ Dear  Hutchin  ; These  deaths  we  feel  very  much,  and 
more  so  that  the  others  are  sick,  and  are  apt  to  think 
only  of  dying  h To  keep  them  up  needs  more  than 
praying  and  Scripture  reading;  they  need  constant 
rousing,  and  somedmes  I have  to  say  very  hard  things. 
Ezekiela  was  simply  dying,  two  men  and  two  women 
were  in  constant  attendance — they  turned  him,  bathed 
him,  held  water  for  him  to  drink.  I simply  stopped  it 
all ; told  them  he  had  some  strength  left,  and  must  use 
it.  He  bathed  himself,  rose,  and  took  his  own  medicine 
from  me,  sat  up,  went  outside,  and  now  is  much  better. 
Others  are  the  same,  only  they  have  heard  of  what  I said 
to  Ezekiela,  and  they  are  on  their  guard.  I know  the 
feeling  well — simply  refuse  to  taste  medicine  and  die.  I 
have  just  had  the  women  walking  around  the  premises. 
No  doubt  they  think  it  hard  now,  but  afterwards  they 
will  be  thankful.’ 

July  27,  1884. 

‘ Dear  Hutchin : We  have  had  the  man-stealers  at 
the  East  End ; but  I hope  their  day  is  ending.  They 
abuse  me  villainously,  for  which  I am  glad.  One  paper 
says  I teach  the  natives  that  white  men  are  cannibals. 
I could  truthfully  teach  them  that  they  are  fiends  in- 
carnate. I shall  keep  at  it  with  home  and  the  colonies 
until  the  horrible  traffic  is  stopped.’ 

Decembtr  24,  1884. 

‘ Dear  Thompson : It  is  with  pleasure  I can  report 
having  successfully  placed  nine  New  Guinea  evangelists, 

‘ This  letter  refers  to  sickness  and  death  very  prevalent  at  the 
time  among  the  Rarotongan  native  teachers  in  New  Guinea. 


Nine  Native  Teachers  Appointed  229 

the  firstfruits  of  our  college.  Before  Lawes  left  for 
Sydney  they  were  ordained  to  the  work,  and  the 
services  then  held  were  certainly  the  most  impressive 
yet  held  on  New  Guinea.  To  all  classes  of  natives  they 
were  attractive  and  enjoyable,  as  being  the  first  of  the 
kind  ever  held,  and  for  the  first  time  they  beheld  their 
own  children  set  apart  to  preach  the  Gospel  amongst 
themselves  and  the  other  tribes.  Men  and  women  came 
in  from  the  various  villages  round  and  spent  several 
days  at  Port  Moresby.  The  young  men  and  their  wives 
who  were  ordained  had,  before  coming  to  college,  spent 
some  years  in  their  own  villages  with  the  teachers,  and 
came  highly  recommended.  During  the  time  they  have 
been  with  us,  more  especially  with  Lawes,  they  made 
good  progress,  lived  godly  lives,  and  did  good  work  at 
neighbouring  villages.’ 

December  17,  1884. 

‘ Dear  Hutchin : I shall  not  be  long  in  England,  as 
I dread  the  winter.  For  some  years  before  I left  home 
I suffered  much  from  bronchitis,  and  at  times  it  was 
thought  I should  lose  the  number  of  my  mess.  Some 
thought  the  Directors  were  making  a grand  mistake  in 
sending  me  out,  and  my  dear  wife’s  friends  thought  her 
married  years  would  be  few  indeed.  Winter  was  cruel 
to  me,  and  I dread  it.  Even  here  our  very  cold  weather 
I dislike,  but  luxuriate  in  our  hottest.  A few  family 
matters  I can  settle  in  a month,  see  a few  friends,  and 
then— back  to  New  Guinea.  Deputation  work  I detest 
with  all  my  nature,  and  only  hope  they  will  not  press 
me  into  it. 

‘ I want  you  to  send  us  young  men  who  will  gather 
around  them  the  youth  and  manhood  of  New  Guinea. 
This  ought  to  be  one  of  the  greatest  missions  that  ever 
yet  has  been  worked.  We  here,  you  there.  Your  best 


230 


Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

in  ever}*  way,  representing  5*ou  here,  and  carr}*ing  on 
a work  hitherto  untried  in  our  South  Sea  Missions. 
Have  centre  schools  thoroughly  conducted,  and  a large 
college  receiving  from  these  schools.  Do  not  laugh, 
brother ; if  I do  not  see  it  I shall  not  die  happy,  I do 
not  care  where  it  is  nor  how  it  is — if  by  a club  or  a spear, 
I shall  feel  it  even  then.’ 

January'  l6,  1885. 

‘ Dear  Hutchin : It  is  with  great  sorrow  I have  to 
report  the  sudden  death  of  our  good  teacher  !Mataio,  at 
South  Cape,  on  December  20,  a fortnight  after  I left 
him.  Brother,  get  the  old  father,  Tukarakia,  and  for 
my  sake  tell  him  kindl}*.  I Hked  ilataio  ; though  slow, 
he  was  t'et  doing  good,  earnest,  abiding  work.  From 
many  miles  the  once  savage  and  cannibal  came  to  his 
funeral,  and  wept  sincerely  for  him  as  for  a father.  The 
doctor  of  the  Raven  ^ thinks  he  must  have  died  of 
t}*phoid  fever. 

‘ I am  now  on  my  way  to  Port  Moresby,  via  Towns- 
ville and  Cooktown,  and  hope  to  be  at  work  again  in 
a fortnight.  The  Government  officials  say  they  cannot 
do  without  me,  and  that  I must  accompany  them,  because 
of  the  natives.  Fancy  Tamate’s  name  known  near  Huon 
Gulf  It  must  have  travelled  across  country.’ 

April  3,  1 88  5. 

‘Dear  Hutchin:  Some  of  the  teachers  1 Tahitian)  are 
causing  trouble.  Because  natives  go  fishing  on  Sunday 
their  canoes  are  broken  up.  I have  made  the  teachers 
pa}’-  for  each  canoe  which  they  have  touched.  A more 
serious  charge,  which  I am  now  looking  into,  is  that  of 
firing  off  a gun  on  Sunday  to  fiighten  the  natives,  and 

^ This  letter  was  written  whilst  Chalmers  was  on  board  H.M.S. 
Raven  helping  in  the  work  of  proclaiming  the  Annexation. 


Native  Teachers  use  Coercion 


231 


in  doing  so  three  small  shot  lodged  in  a woman.  Would 
that  our  teachers  could  see  the  folly  of  force,  and  try  to 
work  as  the  Great  Master  Himself  did.  They  look  down 
upon  the  New  Guineans,  and  bounce  them  too  much. 
They  know  my  horror  of  any  bounce,  and  detestation 
of  any  force,  and  they  pay  the  natives  not  to  tell  me. 
I shall  likely  send  some  back  next  time  the  John 
Williams  comes.  Tell  the  young  men  that  it  is  by 
kindness,  meekness,  and  humility  in  Christ  that  the  best 
work  is  done,  and  may  those  whom  you  send  come 
resolved  to  work  in  this  spirit.  God  help  you,  brother, 
to  a right  selection.* 

May  19,  1885. 

‘ My  dear  Pastor : You  will  get  a book  on  New 
Guinea^,  the  most  of  which  will  be  old  to  you.  It  is 
Mr.  Gill’s  doing.  He  begged  me  to  allow  him  to  collect 
and  publish  some  of  my  papers  and  reports.  I have 
objected;  still  I fear  I shall  have  to  yield.  The  great 
Russian  scientist  and  traveller,  my  friend  Baron  Maclay, 
writes  saying  that  it  will  be  a crime  if  I do  not  publish.’ 

The  next  two  letters  possess  special  interest.  It  was 
noted  in  chapter  ii  that  a bosom  friend  of  the  first 
Mrs.  Chalmers  was  Miss  Elizabeth  Large  of  Leeds. 
For  many  years  correspondence  had  lapsed,  but  the 
publication  of  Chalmers’  book  led  to  its  renewal.  Miss 
Large  had  for  a number  of  years  been  Mrs.  Harrison, 
and  her  home  was  at  Retford  in  Nottinghamshire. 

July  3,  1885. 

‘ Dear  Lizzie : I have  often  wondered  how  I could  get 
your  address,  so  at  last  you  send  it  yourself.  You  are 
the  dear  good  lassie  of  old,  and  your  charming  letter  has 

^ The  reference  is  to  Work  and  Adventure  in  New  Guinea,  the 
first  edition  of  which  was  published  in  1885. 


232 


Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

done  me  good,  I got  it  when  I came  oflF  a long  tramp 
(300  miles).  Eh,  lassie,  did  j'ou  but  know  its  good 
refreshing  effect  you  would  have  written  years  ago  to 
this  lonely  wanderer.  It  is  so  good  in  you  to  write  me 
of  your  sorrows  as  well  as  5'our  joys.  I really  will  not 
\A-rite  you  a long  letter  just  now,  as  I leave  in  the 
morning  in  the  schooner  for  the  south-east  end  of  New 
Guinea.  I have  never  forgotten  j'ou,  and  there  is  still 
that  old  love  here  for  the  dear  little  sister  of  Leeds. 

‘ How  I wish  I had  written  you  after  Jeannie  went 
home,  that  is,  since  we  parted,  nearly  seven  years  ago ; 
perhaps  a wee  letter  now  and  then  would  have  been 
a comfort  when  those  big  sorrows  were  yours.  You 
have  had  a long  refining.  He  was  sitting  by  and  saw 
it  all,  and  in  the  future  all  the  questionings  of  your 
aching  heart  will  be  answered. 

‘ I hoped  to  be  in  England  this  year,  but  cannot  now, 
and  at  present  cannot  say  when.  Had  Jeannie  lived  we 
should  have  been  home  long  ago.  \Mien  she  died  in 
Sydne)'  I could  not  leave  the  mission.  ^ly  first  intima- 
tion of  her  death  was  in  a newspaper ; she  was  then  dead 
four  weeks.  I went  and  saw  her  resting-place,  and  then 
went  to  her  friends  in  New  Zealand,  and  back  here. 
Lizzie,  dear,  in  work  for  Christ  I tried  to  forget  my 
sorrow ; the  wound  remains,  and  will  bleed. 

‘ You  ask  for  your  old  place  in  my  heart — here  it  is, 
and  there  it  will  ever  remain.  Yes,  teach  your  balm  to 
call  me  uncle,  and  some  day — soon,  I hope — he  will  see  the 
old  bronzed  fellow,  older  than  when  you  knew  him,  with 
many  grey  hairs  now,  but,  I think,  with  the  old  young 
heart;  at  all  events  the  same  old  heart  to  his  sister 
Lizzie. 

‘ You  would  not  know  me,  so  some  day  when  a very 
unclerical,  bronzed  wayfarer  knocks  at  your  door,  and 


♦ 


233 


Thoughts  of  Home 

you  ask  his  name,  and  he  answers  Tam  ate,  take  him  in 
and  just  try  and  spoil  him.  For  the  last  eight  years  my 
life  has  been  a peculiar  one — somewhat  rough.  I have 
had  much  fever,  but  always  got  over  it.  I have  much 
to  be  thankful  for ; from  everybody  I receive  much 
kindness.  Savage  and  non-savage,  white  and  black,  all 
are  kind.’ 


February  3,  1886. 

* My  very  dear  Lizzie : A thousand  thanks  for  your 
kind  and  loving  letter  and  for  the  home  gift.  Yes,  I 
shall  go  to  Retford,  and  perhaps  sooner  than  you  think. 
I am  a queer  mortal,  always  ready  for  a start,  and  why 
not  some  day  start  for  England  and  say  nothing  about 
it  ? I am  much  of  a Bohemian  now,  and  I fear  you  will 
be  terribly  disappointed  in  me.  I smoke  as  of  old 
but  not  much.  Port  Moresby  is  my  headquarters,  and 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lawes  do  their  level  best  to  make  me 
comfortable ; but  for  them,  and  long  ago  the  cold  earth 
was  my  bed,  having  gone  on  unnoticed  and  unwept 
except  by  my  dusky  Papuans  and  true,  friendly  Poly- 
nesian teachers. 

‘ Before  Jeannie  left  for  Sydney,  her  last  visit  when 
she  went  to  die,  she  left  instructions  with  our  teacher’s 
wife  here  to  look  well  after  Tamate,  to  take  care  of  him 
and  his  clothes ; and  faithfully  did  that  poor  woman 
carry  out  her  trust,  but  it  ended  last  Sunday  night ; after 
two  days  illness  she  died.  She  was  a splendid  teacher’s 
wife,  and  a true  woman — the  best  we  had.  I just 
returned  on  the  Saturday,  so  was  in  time  to  see  her 
die. 

‘ I am  getting  very  old  and  rheumatic,  stiff  as  an  old 
horse  and  lazy  as  one,  and  yet  I must  visit  that  land  of 
damp,  mists,  and  frost,  that  strange  land  wherein  I shall 


234 


Pioneering  from  1879  to  1886 

be  a stranger.  I feel  somewhat  Paulish.  I am  in  a 
strait,  want  to  go  and  don’t  want  to  go.  I should  like 
to  take  you  unawares,  but  I fear  there  is  no  chance  of 
that. 

‘ You  know  I travel  a great  deal  over  old  ground  and 
opening  up  new,  a kind  of  vagrant,  and  few  can  tell 
where  to  find  me.  At  times  I am  quite  a vegetarian, 
at  others  nearly  so,  still,  I enjoy  life  and  good  Hving 
occasionally.  Here  of  course  we  have  every  comfort 
and  luxury.  Jeannie  will  have  gone  home  seven  years 
on  the  20th  inst.,  and  since  then  I have  not  cared  for 
home  or  a home,  and  have  made  home  wherever  I 
happen  to  be,  stHl  speaking  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lawes’ 
home  as  my  home. 

‘ We  are  now  in  the  middle  of  our  north-west  season, 
and  have  much  sickness.  During  the  last  fortnight 
many  natives  have  died  and  a great  many  are  now  iU, 
and  I fear  if  the  present  close  weather  continues  it  will 
spread. 

‘ Mr.  Macfarlane  has  gone  home.  I was  away  when 
he  was  here,  and  so  missed  him,  for  which  I am  sorry. 
You  say,  you  are  plump  and  nearly  forty.  I am  plump 
and  over  forty,  quite  the  old  youth.  We  are  daily 
expecting  new  teachers  from  the  South  Seas,  and  on 
their  arrival  I shall  be  able  to  arrange  for  going  “ home." 
I do  not  expect  to  be  long  away  from  New  Guinea. 

‘You  will  have  seen  in  the  papers  that  our  new 
Commissioner,  General  Scratchley,  is  dead.  I was  with 
him  a great  deal,  and  knew  him  well  and  liked  him 
much.  To  us  he  is  a great  loss.  Had  he  lived  I was 
to  be  with  him  this  year,  revisit  old  places  and  open 
up  new  country;  that  is  ended,  and  so  I am  open  for 
England.  During  last  trip  with  the  General  I saw 
a good  deal  of  the  north-east  coast  as  far  as  the  German 


Death  of  General  Scratchley  235 

boundary,  and  we  made  some  very  interesting  discoveries. 
Perhaps  some  day  I may  chat  them  over  with  you  and 
yours.’ 

The  proclamation,  first  of  the  Protectorate  and  later 
of  the  Annexation,  postponed  for  a considerable  time 
Chalmers’  long-delayed  furlough ; and  the  services  he 
was  able  to  render  to  the  officers  of  the  Imperial  Govern- 
ment form  the  subject  of  the  next  chapter. 


CHAPTER  VII 


THE  ANNEXATION  OF  NEW  GUINEA 

The  successive  stages  in  the  process  by  which  South- 
Eastern  New  Guinea  was  formally  annexed  to  Great 
Britain  are  clearly  set  forth  in  the  correspondence  of 
Lawes  and  Chahners.  Both  men  were  deeply  interested 
in  this  movement,  because  they  had  the  welfare  of  the 
natives  at  heart.  They  were  also  able  to  render  services 
of  the  highest  value  to  the  Government  oflScials,  because 
they  were  well  acquainted  with  native  habits  and  modes 
of  thought,  they  had  acquired  considerable  knowledge 
of  New  Guinea  languages,  and  they  were  on  terms  of 
friendship  with  many  of  the  chiefs.  They  were  able,  as 
no  others  could,  to  make  fairly  intelligible  to  the  chiefs 
and  their  people  the  meaning  of  ceremonies  that  would, 
without  their  help,  have  appeared  to  the  natives  mere 
noise  and  dumb  show. 

The  oudook  was  at  first  dark.  The  view  that  New 
Guinea  was  rich  in  gold,  so  situated  as  to  be  fairly 
accessible,  led  Queensland  to  cast  a covetous  eye  upon 
her  great  island  neighbour.  The  record  of  Queensland 
in  regard  to  native  races  is  very  black.  Everywhere  in 
Australia  the  native  has  been  treated  with  cruelty;  but  the 
most  atrocious  crimes  against  him  have  been  perpetrated 
in  Queensland.  That  colony’s  record  in  the  matter  of 
kidnapping  Polynesians  and  exacting  from  them  forced 
labour  is  also  as  bad  as  it  can  be.  When,  therefore,  it 
seemed  likely  that  New  Guinea  would  fall  under  the 


First  Steps  towards  Annexation  237 

control  of  Queensland  the  hearts  of  Lawes  and  Chalmers 
sank  within  them.  They  knew  this  meant  either  in- 
difference to  or  absolute  disregard  of  the  human  rights 
of  the  natives ; the  establishment  of  land  laws  wholly  in 
favour  of  the  white  and  wholly  to  the  detriment  of  the 
black  man ; the  tolerance  and  even  the  furtherance 
of  the  drink  traffic  ; and  a host  01  lesser  evils.  But 
happily  this  catastrophe  was  averted  by  the  action  of 
the  Imperial  Government. 

A letter  from  Mr.  Macfarlane,  dated  April  8,  1883, 
describes  the  first  stage  in  the  series  of  events  which 
finally  led  to  annexation. 

‘You  will  probably  be  surprised  to  learn  that  Mr. 
Chester,  the  Police  Magistrate  at  Thursday  Island,  who 
has  been  for  some  time  urging  upon  the  Queensland 
public  and  Government  the  desirability  of  annexing 
New  Guinea,  left  Murray  Island  a week  ago  in  the 
Government  schooner  Pearl  to  take  possession  for 
Queensland  (with  the  sanction  of  the  Home  Govern- 
ment) of  that  portion  of  New  Guinea  not  claimed  by  the 
Dutch.  He  will  probably  be  appointed  to  represent 
the  Government  there,  and  we  may  very  soon  hear  of 
Queensland  labour  vessels  on  the  New  Guinea  coast. 
It  appears  to  be  the  labour  question  that  has  led  to 
annexation.  I fear  that  our  mission  will  suffer.’ 

Mr.  Lawes  continues  the  record  in  a letter  from  Port 
Moresby,  dated  April  7,  1883. 

‘On  Tuesday  last,  the  3rd  inst.,  the  Government 
cutter  from  Thursday  Island  arrived  here.  Mr.  Chester, 
the  resident  Police  Magistrate  of  Thursday  Island,  was 
on  board,  and  soon  informed  us  of  the  object  of  his 
visit.  He  had  been  sent  by  the  Queensland  Government 
to  take  possession  of  New  Guinea  in  the  name  of  the 
Queen.  Mr.  Chester  is  an  old  friend  of  ours,  especially 


238  The  Annexation  of  New  Gtiinea 

of  Mr.  Chalmers.  He  showed  us  his  instructions, 
according  to  which  the  Queensland  Government  had 
telegraphed  home  offering  to  bear  the  expense  of  New 
Guinea  for  a few  years  if  annexed,  and  had  received 
a reply  accepting  the  proposal  on  those  terms.  Mr. 
Chester  was  immediately  instructed  by  telegram  to  come 
here  and  take  possession. 

‘ On  Wednesday  morning  at  ten  o’clock  Mr.  Chester 
hoisted  the  Union  Jack  at  our  flagstaff,  and  it  was 
saluted  by  the  two  guns  of  the  Pearl. 

‘After  the  ceremony  Mr.  Chester  made  a present  to 
the  natives,  and  we  explained  to  them  as  best  we  could 
the  nature  of  the  proceedings.  We  cannot  understand 
them  ourselves.  Annexation  we  were  in  a measure 
prepared  for,  although  we  did  not  wish  it.  But  that  an 
Australian  colony  should  be  allowed  to  take  this  step 
is  to  us  most  surprising.  Here  is  the  largest  island  in 
the  world,  to  which  Fiji  and  even  New  Zealand  are  a 
mere  nothing,  annexed  by  a Police  Magistrate  who 
comes  in  a little  tub  of  a cutter ! There  must  be  some 
mistake  somewhere.  We  would  much  rather  not  be 
annexed  by  anybod)',  but  if  there  was  any  probability 
of  a foreign  power  taking  possession  of  New  Guinea, 
then  let  us  have  British  rule : but  as  a Crown  Colony, 
not  as  an  appendage  to  Queensland.  Nowhere  in  the 
world  have  aborigines  been  so  basely  and  cruelly  treated 
as  in  Queensland — the  half  has  never  been  told — and  are 
the  natives  of  New  Guinea  to  be  handed  over  to  the 
tender  mercies  of  the  men  who  have  done  these  deeds  ? ’ 

The  report  of  this  transaction,  which  Mr.  Chester  sent 
to  the  Chief  Secretary  of  Queensland,  is  dated  April  7, 
1883.  In  it  he  states ; — 

‘ At  ten  a.m.  on  the  4th  instant  I took  formal 
possession,  in  Her  Majesty’s  name,  of  all  that  portion  of 


The  Queensland  Annexation  239 

New  Guinea  and  the  adjacent  islands  not  already  in 
occupation  by  the  Dutch,  and  read  the  accompanying 
proclamation  in  presence  of  about  200  natives  and 
thirteen  Europeans.  A royal  salute  was  fired  from  the 
Pearl,  and  at  the  close  of  the  proceedings  three  cheers 
were  given  for  Her  Majesty  the  Queen.  I then,  in 
presence  of  the  people,  recognized  Boe  Vagi  as  head 
chief  of  Port  Moresby,  and  gave  the  flag  into  his  charge, 
until  such  time  as  an  official  should  be  sent  to  represent 
the  Government.  Mr.  Lawes  kindly  explained  the 
meaning  of  the  ceremony  to  the  people,  and  assured 
them  that  they  would  remain  in  undisturbed  possession 
of  their  lands.  A short  impressive  prayer  by  Mr.  Lawes 
terminated  the  proceedings,  after  which  about  £^o 
worth  of  trade  was  distributed  to  the  heads  of  families 
by  Ruatoka,  the  Rarotongan  teacher,  in  the  name  of  Her 
Majesty.  In  the  afternoon  a long  procession  filed  up 
the  hill  to  the  mission-house,  each  man  bearing  some 
small  present,  such  as  two  or  three  spears,  an  armlet, 
a grass  petticoat,  or  an  ornament,  and  after  this  the 
Europeans  present,  the  teachers  and  their  wives,  and 
Boe  Vagi,  were  invited  to  a banquet,  given  by  Messrs. 
Lawes  and  Chalmers,  at  which,  after  the  usual  loyal 
toasts,  “ Prosperity  to  the  latest  gem  added  to  the 
British  Crown  ” was  drunk,  and  the  health  of  the 
missionaries  who  had  done  so  much  for  the  civilization 
of  the  people.’ 

This  event  gready  exercised  the  minds  of  both  Lawes 
and  Chalmers.  The  former’s  view  of  the  probable 
influence  of  Queensland  government  is  shown  in  the 
letter  quoted  above.  Chalmers  was  as  fully  alive  as  his 
colleague  to  the  probable  troubles  in  store  for  the  native 
tribes  he  had  so  long  laboured  to  benefit.  On  June  25, 
1883,  he  wrote  from  Cooktown : — 


240  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 

‘ Having  had  a bad  attack  of  fever  in  the  beginning  of 
May,  it  was  thought  advisable  that  I should  take  a 
change  for  a few  weeks.  I left  Port  Moresby  on  May  21 
for  Thursday  Island,  intending  to  proceed  to  Cooktown, 
and  there  await  the  arrival  of  the  Ellengowan,  Before 
leaving  Port  Moresby  we  thought  that  if  I could  manage 
a visit  to  Brisbane  on  the  matter  of  the  annexation  and 
the  labour  question  I might  do  some  good. 

‘ MTen  at  Thursday  Island  I found  there  was  good 
time  to  go  south  and  spend  a week  in  Brisbane  to  see, 
if  possible,  leading  men.  A few  days  with  my  old 
friends  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chester  soon  set  me  right,  and 
a vessel  coming  in  with  Baron  Maclay  on  board  I took 
ticket  for  the  south.  On  our  way  down  we  wrote 
a conjoint  letter  to  Earl  Derby  on  the  annexation  and 
labour  question,  expressing  hopes  that  the  native  rights 
would  be  respected,  spirits  prohibited,  and  that  strict 
orders  would  be  given  that  no  natives  were  to  be  taken 
away  as  labourers. 

‘ On  my  arrival  in  Brisbane  I saw  the  Premier,  and 
spent  a long  evening  with  him.  I found  him  a stubborn, 
good,  honest  Scotchman,  anxdous  that  justice  should  be 
done,  and  willing,  if  coolies  could  be  obtained,  that  the 
labour  traffic  in  natives  should  be  stopped.  I had  an 
interview  also  with  the  Leader  of  the  Opposition,  and 
saw  the  editors  of  the  leading  newspapers,  and  many 
other  men  of  more  or  less  influence.  I also  addressed 
two  large  meetings,  at  one  of  which  the  editor  of  the 
leading  paper  took  the  chair.’ 

A letter  written  a few  months  later  from  Port 
Moresby,  September  21,  1883,  shows  how  rapidly 
the  fears  of  Chalmers  and  his  colleague  were 
realized. 

‘ Mr.  Lawes  will  write  you  on  the  land  swdndle.  Just 


A Land  Swindle 


241 


imagine  an  acre  of  fine  sugar  land  bought  for  one  penny ! 
No  native  understands  what  has  been  done,  and  when 
informed  what  the  transaction  really  means  they  look 
aghast.  We  are  quite  prepared  for  any  amount  of 
abuse,  but  are  determined  to  oppose  in  every  way  this 
land  scheming.  No  native  should  be  allowed  to  part 
with  an  inch  of  land,  and  the  British  Government 
should  at  once  say  so.  Rather  forfeit  all  we  own  than 
permit  the  natives  to  be  swindled  by  the  glitter  of  new 
tomahawks.  I know  natives,  and  understand  their 
politics,  and  I think  no  native  or  chief  has  any  right  to 
part  with  his  or  her  lands,  and  certainly  not  until  there 
is  some  responsible  government  on  the  island.  What- 
ever you  do,  do  boldly  on  Lawes’  letter.  Urevado 
alone  is  chief,  alone  the  landowner  in  this  transaction, 
and  he  never  was  seen,  and  received  no  payment  or 
present.  Paru,  the  man  who  is  supposed  to  have  sold 
the  land,  is  no  chief,  holds  no  land,  and  has  no  right  to 
part  with  any,  and  all  the  other  natives  are  in  the  same 
position.  I have  written  to  a friend  who  has  influence 
with  some  in  authority,  and  hope  when  aU  is  tried  the 
land  sharks  will  be  ousted. 

‘ Teachers  are  not  only  preachers  of  the  Gospel,  they 
are  also  checks  on  these  white  spoilers.  I do  not  see 
how  I can  leave  at  present.  I am  called  the  “ tyrant  mis- 
sionary," because  the  natives  ever  appeal  to  me,  and 
wish  to  act  as  I say.  My  tyranny  is  well  liked  by  the 
natives.  I expect  infinitely  more  abuse  here  than  I had 
in  the  South  Pacific,  only  it  wiU  not  affect  me  now  as  it 
did  then.  I was  then  young,  now  am  old,  and  accus- 
tomed to  it.  As  then  I will  do  the  right,  and  take  the 
consequences,  leaving  all  with  Him  whom  I seek 
to  serve.’ 

In  a letter  written  to  Rarotonga  the  following  day, 

Q 


242  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 

September  22,  Chalmers  again  refers  to  this  land 
swindle ; — 

‘ Dear  Hutchin : Let  all  who  seek  the  good  of  the 
young  men  determine  to  stop  strong  drink,  native  and 
foreign.  Surely  the  fear  of  the  white  man  has  gone. 
Brother,  prepare  yourself  for  abuse ; but  never  mind, 
do  the  right  for  God  and  man,  and  you  must  succeed. 
I like  opposition,  and  I like  hard  knocks.  We  are  now 
entering  into  land  troubles.  Two  men  representing 
a Sydney  syndicate  have  bought  15,000  acres  of  splendid 
sugar  land  for  one  penny  per  acre,  and  have  never  even 
seen  the  real  owner.  We  are  bringing  the  whole  transac- 
tion to  the  light.  I am  a “ tyrant  missionary  ” ; I try  to 
make  myself  King  of  New  Guinea ; the  natives  are  afraid 
of  me.  I must  be  put  down.  Capital,  I like  the  fight, 
and  know  that  right  must  eventually  win  the  day.  The 
people  who  sold  the  land  have  had  no  teachers,  but  have 
been  frequently  visited  by  me,  and  I certainly  have  great 
influence  over  them. 

‘ It  is  impossible  to  say  when  I shall  leave.  I have 
become  sort  of  savage,  and  dislike  meeting  people  ; very 
unsociable,  I am  told.’ 

In  the  second  stage  of  annexation  development  a 
prominent  part  was  taken  by  Mr.  H.  H.  RomiUy,  who 
had  passed  many  years  in  Polynesia  in  different  govern- 
ment appointments,  one  having  been  that  of  Private 
Secretary  to  Sir  Arthur  Gordon  in  Fiji,  a good  school 
in  which  to  be  trained  for  service  among  natives.  He 
had  been  ordered  to  New  Guinea  by  telegram  from 
Lord  Derby  in  July,  1883,  and  arrived  at  Port  Moresby 
from  New  Britain  in  November.  As  there  was  no 
accommodation  there  for  him,  he  went  first  to  Thursday 
Island,  and  thence  to  Sydney  and  Melbourne.  Early  in 
1884  he  was  recalled  to  Brisbane,  to  give  evidence 


243 


Effort  to  stop  Kidnapping 

against  two  white  men  who  had  been  arrested  for 
murder  and  outrages  upon  natives  in  the  Laughlin 
Islands.  The  men  were  taken  to  Fiji,  and  there  tried 
and  punished.  ‘ The  government  here,’  he  wrote,  ‘ are 
really  making  an  effort  to  stop  kidnapping.  The  result 
is  fury  all  round.’ 

Romilly  knew  Chalmers  and  Lawes  well,  and  was  in 
constant  intercourse  with  them  during  his  stay  in  New 
Guinea.  His  testimony  is  all  the  more  valuable,  since  it 
comes  from  a competent  observer,  and  one  not  inclined 
to  take  too  sympathetic  a view  of  missionary  work  : — 

‘ I find  Chalmers,’  he  wrote  in  1885,  ‘ a capital  fellow 
to  live  with.  He  is  utterly  unlike  a missionary.  I over- 
hauled his  wardrobe  by  force  the  other  day,  and  found 
that  he  had  not  even  got  a black  coat  and  tie. 

‘ Messrs.  Lawes  and  Chalmers,  whose  names  of  late 
have  been  much  before  the  public,  are  the  only  people 
who  really  have  much  knowledge  of  New  Guinea;  but, 
in  spite  of  their  ten  years’  residence  in  it,  their  acquaint- 
ance is  limited  to  the  south  coast.  Even  on  the  south 
coast  it  is  necessary  to  know  three  or  four  dialects  in 
order  to  get  on  with  the  natives. 

‘ Mr.  Lawes  shortly  after  his  arrival  was  joined  by 
Mr.  Chalmers,  and  by  their  united  efforts  they  began 
a system  of  planting  native  teachers  at  various  spots 
along  the  coast,  till  they  succeeded  in  establishing  a line 
of  communication  from  the  Papuan  Gulf  to  the  Louisiade 
Archipelago.  Many  of  these  teachers  were  Raro- 
tongans,  who  had  been  trained  by  Mr.  Chalmers  while 
he  was  attached  to  the  mission  at  that  place.  Of  course 
there  have  been  some  casualties  among  them ; some 
have  died  of  fever,  and  some  have  been  murdered  by 
the  natives ; but  their  general  success  in  establishing 
a firm  footing  and  gaining  an  ascendency  over  the 

Q 2 


244  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 

natives  wherever  they  have  been,  shows  clearly  that 
the}'  are  inteUigent  and  courageous  men.  They  cer- 
tainly have  a great  aptitude  for  picking  up  dialects. 
Though  it  has  been  much  the  habit  to  laugh  at  and 
despise  the  native  teachers,  yet  it  is  to  them  that  the 
white  man  in  difficulties  always  turns  for  protection, 
and  it  is  always  accorded  him.  They  are  furnished 
with  serviceable  whale-boats,  and  therefore  anything  of 
importance  which  may  occur  on  the  coast  is  known 
within  a few  days  at  the  head  station. 

‘ The  English  missionaries  have  been  always  ready  to 
supply  visitors  with  information  and  assistance,  and  it  is 
very’  largely  owing  to  the  influence  they  have  over  the 
natives  that  so  many  white  men  have  visited  the  country' 
without  accident.  !Many  of  these  in  their  subsequent 
writings  have  omitted  to  mention  this  fact,  or  to  quote 
the  source  from  which  the  greater  part  of  their  infor- 
mation has  been  derived.  Of  all  the  missions  in  the 
Pacific,  there  is  not  one  which  has  done  better  work 
than  that  which  is  now  firmly  established  in  New 
Guinea  h’ 

On  November  ii,  1884,  Mr.  Romilly  wrote  home: 
‘ It  may  interest  you  to  know  that  we  have  just  finished 
hoisting  the  flag  here,  and  a very  imposing  ceremony  it 
was.  I made  rather  an  ass  of  myself,  or  rather  other 
people  made  an  ass  of  me,  as  I received  a telegram  from 
Lord  Derby,  giving  me  the  limits  of  the  Protectorate 
and  other  information  about  it,  while  I was  kept  in 
utter  ignorance  that  the  commodore  was  coming  up 
here  with  orders  to  hoist  the  flag  himself.’ 

The  reference  in  this  letter  is  to  the  fact  that  Romilly 
read  his  instructions  in  such  a way  as  to  believe  that  he 
was  to  proclaim  the  Protectorate,  and  he  did  so  a day  or 

^ The  Western  Pacific  and  New  Guinea,  pp.  241,  242. 


Official  Proclamation  of  Protectorate  245 

two  before  Commodore  Erskine’s  arrival,  greatly  to  the 
astonishment  of  that  officer  when  informed  of  the  fact. 

Commodore  Erskine,  by  whom  the  official  procla- 
mation of  the  Protectorate  was  finally  carried  out, 
kindly  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  writer  his  report 
of  the  proceedings.  This  document  fully  recognizes  the 
very  important  services  which  Lawes  and  Chalmers  and 
the  native  teachers  were  able  to  render  to  the  Queen’s 
representative.  The  commodore’s  squadron  consisted 
of  the  Nelson,  Espiegle,  Raven,  Swinger  and  Harrier. 
It  was  evident  that  Romilly’s  action,  referred  to 
above,  could  not  be  recognized  as  either  legal  or 
authoritative.  Moreover,  it  was  the  commodore’s  desire 
that  the  natives  should  be  enabled  to  grasp  the  meaning 
and  importance  of  the  ceremony.  It  was  in  this  con- 
nexion that  the  influence  of  Chalmers  and  of  Lawes 
was  so  important.  The  most  imposing  demonstration 
took  place  at  Port  Moresby.  On  November  4,  1884, 
the  Espiegle  sailed  eastwards  to  Round  Head  with 
Mr.  Chalmers  on  board.  The  object  was  to  induce  all 
the  accessible  chiefs  to  come  on  board  and  be  conveyed 
to  Port  Moresby  to  take  part  in  the  grand  ceremony. 
Had  not  Chalmers  been  present  to  inspire  the  chiefs 
with  confidence,  and  to  explain  matters,  so  that  they 
could  grasp  something  of  their  meaning,  hardly  a chief 
would  have  accepted  the  commodore’s  invitation.  Mean- 
while the  Raven,  with  a native  teacher,  probably 
Ruatoka,  on  board,  went  west  on  the  same  errand,  as 
far  as  Redscar  Bay,  while  Mr.  Lawes  brought  in  the 
chiefs  of  the  inland  tribes.  A large  number  of  chiefs 
were  thus  assembled,  and  were  all  taken  on  board  the 
Nelson  on  November  5 to  enjoy  a feast,  and  to  hear  an 
address  from  the  commodore.  When  the  feast  was 
over  Lawes  translated  for  the  chiefs  the  address,  which 


246  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 

explained  to  them  what  the  object  of  to-morrow’s  cere- 
mony was,  and  what  the  results  of  the  Protectorate  would 
be,  so  far  as  the  chiefs  and  their  people  were  concerned. 
After  this  the  chiefs  descended  to  the  main  deck,  and 
each  recewed  a present  from  the  hands  of  the  commodore. 

On  the  morning  of  November  6,  in  the  enclosed 
ground  of  the  mission  house  the  British  flag  was  hoisted, 
saluted  with  all  due  ceremonies,  and  the  Protectorate 
formally  announced  by  the  commodore.  On  November  7 
the  Nelson  and  the  Raven  visited  HaU’s  Sound  and 
Freshwater  Bay,  there  also  to  raise  the  flag.  ‘ The 
missionaries,’  the  record  of  this  trip  runs,  ‘ have  been 
in  frequent  attendance  upon  the  commodore,  who  has 
had  to  rely  entirely  upon  them  for  information  con- 
cerning the  native  tribes  along  the  coast,  and  for  getting 
the  chiefs  and  natives  together.’ 

Commodore  Erskine  became  deeply  interested  in  the 
mission  work  carried  on  by  Lawes  and  Chalmers,  and 
his  report  contains  an  account  of  his  visit  to  the  school 
at  Port  Moresby. 

‘ Most  of  the  children  attend  the  mission  school,  and 
an  exceedingly  interesting  scene  was  witnessed  in  the 
school  by  the  commodore  during  his  stay  at  Port 
Moresby,  after  returning  from  the  west.  It  was  arranged 
that  he  would  visit  the  school  one  afternoon,  and  the 
ringing  of  the  beU,  which  hangs  from  the  branch  of 
a tree  in  full  hearing  of  the  village,  brought  together 
about  120  children,  the  boys  in  the  nude  condition 
usual  with  them,  and  the  girls  dressed  in  their  fibre 
petticoats.  The  children  were  seated  on  the  floor  of 
the  schoolroom,  a long,  cool  building,  with  walls  and 
a roof  made  of  the  pandanus  leaf,  and  the  floors  of 
boards  from  old  canoes,  the  boys  on  one  side  and  the 
girls  on  the  other;  and  behind  the  children  were  the 


Examination  of  Native  Children  247 

native  teachers  and  their  wives.  The  children  mani- 
fested all  the  interest  and  obedience  expected  from 
European  children,  and  were  examined  by  Mr.  Chalmers. 
They  sang,  answered  questions  in  geography,  counted 
in  English  from  one  to  a hundred,  and  gave  the  English 
for  several  phrases  in  common  use  spoken  to  them  by 
Mr.  Chalmers  in  their  own  language— their  knowledge 
of  the  names  of  countries  and  their  capital  cities,  of 
oceans,  seas,  and  islands,  as  they  were  indicated  on  the 
different  maps,  was  remarkable,  and  they  were  perfectly 
familiar  with  the  appearance  and  position  of  their  own 
country,  which  they  know  only  by  the  name  of  New 
Guinea.  They  sang  in  their  own  tongue  some  hymns ; 
they  also  sang  “ Auld  Lang  Syne  ” and  the  “ National 
Anthem,”  and  reverently  standing,  with  eyes  closed, 
they  repeated  the  Lord’s  Prayer.  There  was  something 
very  touching  about  this  for  the  most  of  the  English 
ears  that  were  listening ; for  although  the  words  of  the 
dark-skinned  children  were  unintelligible,  their  attitude 
and  earnestness  showed  that  they  had  been  taught  to 
understand  the  meaning  of  the  beautiful  words  they 
were  repeating.  The  whole  scene  was  such  as  to  rouse 
feelings  of  sympathy,  and  to  make  one  long  to  be  able 
to  distribute  a tin  of  lollies  or  a basket  of  buns  amongst 
them.  It  seemed  very  much  opposed  to  the  English 
idea  of  the  fitness  of  things  that  fishhooks  and  sticks 
of  trade  tobacco  should  be  considered  suitable  gifts  for 
them,  and  yet  the  eyes  of  the  little  people,  as  they  each 
received  the  commodore’s  present  of  a fishhook,  a 
stick  of  tobacco,  and  a small  paper  of  beads,  glistened 
with  pleasure,  just  as  the  eyes  of  English  children  do  at 
school  when  they  receive  gifts  or  prizes ; when  they 
were  dismissed  from  school  they  bounded  away  with 
just  the  same  glee.’ 


248  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 

On  November  17,  the  Nelson,  accompanied  by  the 
Espiegle,  with  Mr.  Chalmers  on  board,  proceeded  east- 
wards to  raise  the  flag  at  Kerepunu  and  other  points. 
The  Nelson  had  on  board  twenty-six  natives  who  had 
been  entrapped  and  carried  off  to  Queensland  under 
false  pretences.  Ten  had  proved  unfit  for  the  hard 
sugar  work,  and  sixteen  had  run  away.  Part  of  the 
commodore’s  duty  was  to  ascertain  exactly  how  these 
men  had  been  entrapped,  and  to  restore  them  to  their 
homes. 

The  ceremony  at  Kerepunu  was  quite  imposing. 
‘ The  chiefs  of  Hula,  Kamali,  Kalo,  Kerepunu,  and 
Aroma,  representing  a large  niunber  of  the  villages 
and  probably  20,000  natives,  all  of  the  Hood  Bay 
district,  were  brought  on  board  the  flagship  to  receive 
presents,  and  to  have  the  Protectorate  explained  to 
them.  The  principal  chief  among  those  brought  on 
board  the  Nelson  at  Kerepunu  was  a great  fighting 
chief,  and  one  of  the  finest  men  we  had  seen.  The 
missionaries  said  he  was  the  finest  chief  they  knew  in 
New  Guinea.  His  name  was  Koapena,  and  he  was 
a chief  of  Aroma.  He  was  well  made,  muscular  and 
strong,  and,  notwithstanding  his  light  copper-coloured 
skin  and  large  head  of  hair,  a handsome  fellow.  His 
features,  slightly  pitted  with  smallpox,  were  aquiline, 
his  nose  well  arched,  and  his  mouth  and  chin  full  of 
decision  and  firmness.  His  broad  shoulders  and  arms 
were  tattooed  with  blue  marks,  which  represented  the 
number  of  people  killed  by  himself  in  fight ; sixty-three 
were  counted,  besides  many  other  marks  which  repre- 
sented the  enemies  killed  by  his  tribe.  He  wore  arm- 
lets  and  small  ornaments  in  his  ears,  and  his  hair  was 
decorated  with  the  scarlet  blossoms  of  the  hibiscus.  In 
every  respect  he  looked  a splendid  man ; and  his  com- 


The  Ceremony  at  Kerepunu  249 

panion  chiefs  had  more  character  about  their  features, 
and  more  bearing  about  them  in  their  general  appear- 
ance and  in  their  movements,  than  any  of  the  natives 
who  had  up  to  that  time  trod  the  Nelson’s  decks. 

‘They  listened  to  what  the  commodore  had  to  say 
through  the  interpreter,  and  then  they  began  to  de- 
liberate amongst  themselves.  One  old  chief  of  Hula, 
who  was  somewhat  doubtful  of  the  new  theory  of  life 
which  the  Protectorate  was  seeking  to  establish,  asked, 
“ In  the  event  of  Kapakapa  near  the  neighbourhood  of 
Hula  attacking  us  again,  are  we  to  understand  that  we 
are  not  to  pay  it  ? ” (that  is,  to  be  revenged).  He  was 
told,  “ Most  certainly  not.”  “ Very  good,”  he  said, 
“but  just  tell  me  who  is  to  do  the  payment.”  Then 
the  commodore  said  that  Her  Majesty’s  officers  would 
see  that  justice  was  done;  but  this  did  not  appear  to 
satisfy  the  chief  until  the  matter  was  explained  to  him 
by  Mr.  Chalmers  in  a manner  better  understood  by  the 
natives,  that  payment  in  the  way  of  punishment  or 
revenge  would  be  administered  by  the  Queen’s  officers, 
and  then  the  chief  signified  that  he  was  content.  “Now,” 
he  said,  “ there  is  to  be  peace  for  ever,  and  I am  satisfied 
so  long  as  somebody  will  punish  those  who  do  wrong.” 
Mr.  Chalmers  put  the  question  to  him  again  and  said, 
“ Now,  is  it  to  be  peace  for  ever  and  for  ever  ? ” “ Yes,” 

he  answered,  “ it  is  peace  for  ever.” 

‘ After  the  ceremony  at  Kerepunu,  the  Nelson  left 
for  Argyle  Bay,  and  the  Espiegle  for  Toulon  Island, 
in  Amazon  Bay.  On  board  of  the  Espiegle  was 
Mr.  Chalmers,  and  Toulon  Island  was  to  be  visited 
by  the  Espiegle  alone,  because  it  was  not  considered 
desirable  to  take  the  Nelson  there,  and  the  commodore 
instructed  Captain  Bridge  to  explain  to  the  Toulon 
Island  natives  what  was  being  done  along  the  coast. 


250  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 

Toiilon  Island  it  not  far  from  Cloudy  Ba}',  and  a short 
time  ago  an  affray  took  place  between  the  Cloudy  Ba)' 
natives  and  the  crew  of  a beche  de  mer  schooner,  with 
the  result  that  one  of  the  white  men  received  a severe 
spear  wound,  and  several  natives  were  killed  or  wounded. 

‘ As  the  natives  of  Toulon  Island  belong  to  the  same 
tribe  as  those  at  Cloudy  Bay,  it  was  thought  by  Mr. 
Chalmers  that  the  islanders  might  regard  the  Espiegle 
as  a man-of-war  come  to  punish  them  for  the  affair  at 
Cloudy  Bay,  and  might  resist  any  attempt  on  the  part 
of  the  boats’  crews  to  land.  It  was  therefore  decided 
that  two  boats  should  land,  each  armed,  the  first  to 
convey  Captain  Bridge  and  Air.  Chalmers  ashore,  and 
the  second,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Ommaney, 
to  lie  off  from  the  shore  as  a covering  boat,  until  it  was 
seen  that  everything  was  safe.  Fortunately  there  were 
no  signs  of  hostility,  and  the  natives  proved  as  friendly 
as  they  could  be,  and  manifested  much  satisfaction  when 
the  Protectorate  was  explained  to  them. 

‘ From  Arg)de  Bay  Commodore  Frskine  proceeded  in 
the  Nelson  to  South  Cape  or  Stacey  Island,  to  Dinner 
Island,  the  Killerton  Islands,  and  Teste  Island,  proclaimed 
the  Protectorate  and  hoisted  the  flag,  with  the  usual  form- 
alities at  each  place.  At  daylight  on  the  morning  of 
Sunday,  November  23,  the  Fspiegle  left  Stacey  Island  in 
advance  of  the  Nelson,  bound  for  Aloresby  Island,  and  on 
Sunday  afternoon  anchored  in  Hoop  Iron  Bay.  There  was 
immediately  a remarkable  and  affecting  scene  between 
the  natives  on  the  vessel  and  friends  and  relatives  on 
shore.  The  seventeen  natives  had  been  given  up  by 
their  friends  for  dead,  and  the  relatives  and  friends  were 
in  mourning  for  them.  In  some  cases  so  long  had  the 
returned  natives  been  away  that  the  period  of  mourning 
by  their  friends  had  expired,  and  their  possessions  had 


Kidnapped  Natives  Restored  to  Friends  251 

been  divided  amongst  those  entitled  to  share.  The 
revulsion  of  feeling  when  it  became  known  that 
seventeen  of  those  who  had  been  given  up  for  lost 
had  returned  may  be  imagined,  and  as  the  Espiegle 
anchored,  an  old  native,  the  chief  of  Moresby  Island, 
was  seated  on  a hammock  gazing  earnestly  at  the 
shore,  and  presently  a canoe  containing  a man  and 
a boy  approached  the  ship.  A recognition  occurred 
instantly,  for  it  afterwards  transpired  that  the  man  in 
the  canoe  was  the  chief’s  brother ; and  when  the  canoe 
came  close  to  the  ship,  and  its  occupants  boarded  the 
vessel,  tears  from  the  three  natives  flowed  copiously, 
and  rushing  to  meet  each  other,  they  fell  one  upon  the 
other’s  neck,  rubbed  noses,  gave  expression  to  loud 
wailings,  and  manifested  other  signs  of  sorrow  and  joy. 

‘ The  natives  said  to  Chalmers,  “ Where  are  the  other 
boys  ? You  have  brought  joy  to  some  homes,  but  some 
are  left  in  sorrow.”  They  were  told  that  they  had  better 
come  to  the  commodore  and  see  him  personally  about 
it.  They  were  frightened,  and  refused  to  leave  the 
island  in  any  vessel.  One  native,  who  has  a son  in 
Queensland,  implored  Captain  Bridge  to  bring  the  boy 
back  to  his  home.  “ Now,”  he  entreated ; “ go  to-day, 
and  we  wiU  fill  the  ship  with  pigs.”  Both  Captain 
Bridge  and  Mr.  Chalmers  did  all  they  could  to  induce 
this  man  to  remain  on  the  Espiegle,  in  order  that  he 
might  tell  his  story  to  Commodore  Erskine,  but  without 
success,  and  a movement  of  the  screw  of  the  vessel 
caused  him  to  suddenly  dart  through  one  of  the  port- 
holes of  the  vessel  into  the  canoe,  for  fear  that  there 
was  to  be  an  attempt  to  take  him  away  by  force.’ 

Teste  Island  was  the  last  place  visited  by  the  squadron, 
and  early  in  December  it  returned  to  Sydney. 

‘ The  Raven  received  orders  to  convey  Mr.  Chalmers 


2£2  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 

back  to  South  Cap>e,  and  the  Swings,  for  a few  months, 
remained  cruising  on  the  New  Guinea  coast.  Mr.  Chal- 
mers left  the  Nelson  for  the  Raven  shortly  before  the 
flagship  took  her  departure,  and  he  carried  with  him 
the  good  wishes  of  all  on  board.  Just  before  leaving, 
the  commodore,  with  some  kindlj-  remarks  and  thanks 
for  the  services  he  had  rendered,  presented  to  him  a 
stick  of  ofioe  like  those  which  had  been  odven  to  the 

o 

principal  native  chieik  It  was  the  only  stick  remaining 
out  of  sis,  and  in  Mr.  Chalmers’  jxjssession  it  is  an 
interesting  souvenir  of  a period  which  will  alwa\*s  be 
remembered  and  in  which  he  played  a prominent  part.’ 
Commodore  Erskine,  in  his  official  dispatch  sent  home 
from  Sydney  in  December,  18S4,  fully  and  heartily 
recognizes  the  great  services  rendered  by  Lawes  and 
Chalmers.  It  need  scarcely  be  said  that  the  Govern- 
ment paid  no  attention  to  the  commodore’s  hope  that 
some  official  recognition  of  their  services  would  be 
made.  The  British  Government  has  alwat-s  been  slow 
to  recognize  the  great  services  constantlv  rendered  to 
its  officials  by  missionaries.  Many  difficulties  would  be 
averted,  and  not  un frequently  bloodshed  and  expense 
avoided,  u the  officials  of  Britain,  which  is  professedly 
a Christian  country,  could  bring  themselves  to  believe 
rbar  missionaries  are  intelligent  men  who  love  their  own 
countn.'  none  the  less  because  they  are  seeking  to  uplift 
the  savages  or  the  heathen  among  whom  they  live. 
But  the  average  British  official,  both  at  home  and 
abroad,  is  usuall)-  in  crass  ignorance  about  all  missionary 
matters,  has  scant  5\-mpathy  with  religious  work  of  any 
kind,  and  usually  despises  the  men  who  can  give  the  best 
and  most  reliable  advice,  preferring  often  the  guidance  of 
those  whose  only  desire  is  to  exploit  British  influence 
for  their  own  selfish  gain.  There  are,  of  course,  indi- 


Services  of  Missionaries 


253 


vidual  exceptions,  and  not  unfrequently  fine  Christian 
men  are  found  holding  office  under  the  British  Crown. 
But  there  are  not  enough  of  these  to  leaven  the  service  ; 
and  Cabinet  ministers  can  rarely  discern  any  merit 
in  those  who  often,  even  as  things  are,  save  British 
officials  from  very  serious  mistakes,  and  give  most 
valuable  help  in  times  of  stress  and  of  danger. 

It  is  only  fair  to  bear  in  mind  that  the  last  thing  any 
true  missionary  desires  is  government  reward.  In  all 
parts  of  the  world  missionaries  place  their  services  at 
the  disposal  of  the  government  when  this  can  be  done 
without  interfering  with  their  proper  work,  and  they 
do  this  ungrudgingly  and  without  the  desire  or  the 
expectation  of  any  recompense.  But  the  ordinary 
Christian  Englishman  sometimes  gets  indignant  when, 
as  recendy  in  China,  British  officials  make  all  kinds  of 
wild  blunders,  from  which  they  could  be  saved  if  they 
were  as  ready  to  consult  the  missionary  as  they  are 
the  globe-trotter  and  the  trader.  Not  for  the  benefit  of 
the  missionary,  but  for  the  credit  of  our  government,  it 
would  be  a desirable  change  if  the  high  authorities  of 
our  Foreign  and  Colonial  Offices  could  convince  them- 
selves that  a man  who  has  given  his  life  to  the  work,  and 
who  knows  the  language  and  thoughts  of  the  people,  is 
at  least  as  good  a judge  and  as  sound  an  authority  to 
be  consulted  as  the  consul,  who  knows  little  about  the 
people  and  cares  even  less,  or  as  the  man  who  is  living 
abroad  simply  to  make  money  and  then  depart. 

Officers  like  Commodore  Erskine  often  acknowledge 
in  the  handsomest  way  their  indebtedness  to  mission- 
aries ; but  so  far  as  the  British  Government  is  concerned, 
in  official  action  and  official  speech,  missionaries  are 
considered  nuisances  that  have  to  be  tolerated,  rather  than 
men  of  knowledge  and  common  sense  whose  experience 


254  "The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 

should  be  turned  to  good  account.  Hence  Com- 
modore Erskine’s  recommendation  was  treated  with 
contempt. 

In  his  official  report,  dated  Sydney,  December  1884, 
he  wrote : — 

‘ It  will  readily  be  seen  that  it  would  have  been 
impossible  for  me  to  have  carried  out  this  programme 
without  the  assistance  of  the  Revs.  Messrs.  Chalmers 
and  Lawes,  whose  acquaintance  with  the  people  and 
knowledge  of  their  habits  are  well  known  and  acknow- 
ledged. From  the  moment  of  my  arrival  these  gentle- 
men have  placed  their  invaluable  services  entirely  at  my 
disposal.  They  have  been  ready  day  and  night  to  assist 
me  in  every  possible  way ; they  have  spared  no  pains  in 
translating  and  explaining  the  terms  of  the  proclama- 
tion and  addresses  which  I have  made,  and  in  collecting 
the  numerous  chiefs  who,  but  for  them,  would  never 
have  come  near  the  ship. 

‘ These  gentlemen,  who  first  came  and  settled  single- 
handed  amongst  these  wild  and  cannibal  tribes  about 
ten  years  ago,  have  by  their  firm  but  conciliatory  and 
upright  dealings,  established  such  a hold  over  the 
natives,  as  many  a crowned  head  would  be  proud  to 
possess.  I have  been  lost  in  admiration  of  the  influence 
which  they  command  over  these  savage  but  intelligent 
people. 

‘ During  our  cruise  it  has  happened  that  a boat  has 
been  sent,  in  the  middle  of  the  night,  to  bring  off 
a chief.  When  it  is  imagined  what  it  is  to  suddenly 
surprise  and  wake  up  the  inhabitants  of  a native  village, 
to  inform  the  chief  that  he  is  wanted,  and  must  go  off 
immediately  to  a huge  man-of-war,  and  for  that  man  to 
comply  without  demur,  it  will  be  understood  what  a 
magic  effect  is  produced  by  a few  words  spoken  by 


Mr.  Romilly  Acting  Commissioner  255 

“ Tamate  ” or  “ Missi  Lao/’  the  native  names  for 
Mr.  Chalmers  and  Mr.  Lawes. 

‘ Under  these  circumstances  I desire  to  testify  to  the 
invaluable  services  which  have  been  rendered  to  me 
by  Messrs.  Chalmers  and  Lawes,  and  to  express  the 
hope  that  they  will  be  duly  acknowledged  by  Her 
Majesty’s  Government.  The  wonderful  confidence 
shown  by  the  natives  must  be  entirely  attributed  to 
their  influence.’ 

After  the  proclamation  of  the  Protectorate  Mr.  Romilly 
was  left  in  possession  of  New  Guinea  as  Acting  Com- 
missioner, pending  the  appointment  of  a Special  Com- 
missioner. His  views  in  the  main  agreed  with  those 
of  Lawes  and  Chalmers,  and  it  is  satisfactory  that  up  to 
the  present  New  Guinea  has  been  governed  in  accord- 
ance with  them.  Nor  can  there  be  any  doubt  that  our 
government  policy  has  been  very  largely  determined  by 
the  views  and  influence  of  these  two  missionaries.  In  1 885 
Chalmers  wrote  a paper  on  the  outlook  for  New  Guinea, 
containing  much  valuable  information  and  expressing 
characteristic  views.  The  reproduction  of  some  of  these 
here  will  show  how  alive  he  was  to  the  needs  of  the 
case,  and  how  eager  he  was  to  secure  the  highest 
interests  of  the  natives: — 

‘The  fear  at  home  is  the  expense  on  the  taxpayer, 
but  only  in  too  much  ruling  can  that  expense  be  very 
great.  It  will  be  a grand  mistake  to  send  here  a large 
force  of  officers,  mere  parasites  for  whom  positions  are 
made.  Every  office,  from  the  Governor,  or  Administrator, 
down  to  the  clerk  of  drudgery,  should  be  shown  to  be 
a necessity  before  appointed.  Every  employe  should 
have  plenty  of  work  that  must  be  done,  and  there  should 
not  be  one  inactive  member  on  the  staff.  With  General 
Scratchley,  Mr,  Romilly,  and  a secretary  each,  there  is 


256  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 

a g-ood  start,  and  these  gendemen  can  fill  up  as  required. 
Having  a vessel  at  their  disposal,  they  wiU  soon  get  to 
know  the  extent  of  their  work  and  begin  to  form  ideas 
of  its  wants. 

‘ One  of  the  first  things  to  do  will  be  to  teach  natives 
the  art  of  government,  so  that  they  may  be  able  to 
govern  themselves  and  relieve  the  British  representa- 
tives as  much  as  possible  of  mere  tribal  difficuldes,  so 
that  there  may  be  more  time  to  devote  to  the  general 
work.  I think  it  would  be  quite  possible  to  assemble 
the  chiefs  of  the  various  districts  once  or  twice  a year  at 
one  or  two  central  places,  such  as  Port  Moresby  and 
South  Cape. 

‘ The  chiefs  could  bring  in  imsetded  disputes  and 
have  them  examined,  and  the  decision  come  to,  with  all 
other  business,  reported  to  the  tribes  on  their  return. 
The  natives  have  a criminal  code  of  their  own, 
which,  altered  and  enlarged  a ver\-  litde,  would  meet 
all  present  wants,  at  all  events  for  some  years  to 
come. 

‘ There  wiU  not,  so  far  as  I know,  be  any  serious 
trouble  about  land.  It  aU  belongs  to  individuals,  and 
each  boundan,-  is  weU  defined.  Nowhere  that  I am 
acquainted  with  is  land  held  by  a chief  for  the  benefit 
of  a tribe,  and  nowhere  could  a chief  part  with  land 
belonging  to  another.  Land  being  so  held,  there  are 
no  serfs,  hence  no  one  has  the  power  to  turn  another 
or  others  off  land,  so  that  in  planting  there  is  no  fear 
of  any  one  being  deprived  of  his  or  her  produce ; hence 
there  should  not  be  much  difficulty  in  inducing  the 
natives  to  plant  or  sow  such  things  as  would  be  useful 
for  exportation.  At  first  it  wiU  be  necessart'  to  en- 
courage them  by  bounties  to  begin,  these  afterwards 
to  be  deducted  from  the  produce  either  by  an  export 


Clothing  of  Natives  257 

duty  or  purchasing  from  the  natives  at  a nominal  price 
and  selling  to  traders  at  a small  advance. 

‘ I fear  I shall  shock  many  of  my  friends  and  a large  \ 
number  of  Christians  in  what  I am  now  going  to 
propose.  The  natives  of  New  Guinea  now  under 
British  rule  do  not  wear  much  clothing,  and  it  is 
desirable  they  should  be  encouraged  to  use  only  a very 
little.  The  women  in  many  parts  are  clothed  enough, 
and  in  others,  where  their  clothing  is  scant,  they  should 
be  encouraged  to  take  to  the  petticoats  and  nothing 
more.  Nowhere  do  the  men  want  more  than  a loin- 
cloth, and  every  effort  should  be  used  to  discourage 
anything  more.  Too  little  attention  has  been  paid  to 
the  effect  clothing  has  had  hitherto  on  native  races. 
Syphilis  and  strong  drink  have  received  the  blame  for 
the  deterioration  and  extinction  of  native  races,  but  I 
think  the  introduction  of  clothing  has  done  much  in 
this  direction.  A great  mistake  has  hitherto  been  made 
in  missionary  work ; the  missionaries  have  reported 
“ respectably  clothed  natives  who  once  were  naked 
savages,”  and  the  churches  have  applauded  in  the  con- 
version of  the  savages.  These  clothed  natives  are,  I 
believe,  only  hurrying  along  an  easy  and  respectable 
road  to  the  grave.  To  swathe  their  limbs  in  European 
clothing  spoils  them,  deteriorates  them,  and,  I fear, 
hurries  them  to  premature  death.  Put  excessive  cloth- 
ing with  syphilis  and  strong  drink,  and,  I think,  we  shall  / 
be  nearer  the  truth. 

‘ Retain  native  customs  as  much  as  possible — only 
those  which  are  very  objectionable  should  be  forbidden 
— and  leave  it  to  the  influence  of  education  to  raise  ' 
them  to  purer  and  more  civilized  customs, 

‘ One  of  the  first  things  the  Government  will  have  to 
face  at  the  very  outset,  if  the  government  is  to  be  for  the 


258  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 

benefit  of  the  natives,  is  their  education,  and  that  should 
not  be  left  to  missionaries.  At  present  the  natives  do 
not  appreciate  the  blessings  or  benefits  of  education, 
but  as  soon  as  commerce  is  introduced  and  civilization 
advances  they  will  become  anxious  to  learn.  Only  by 
a thorough  s^^stem  of  education  will  they  ever  rise  above 
their  superstitions  and  shake  off  for  ever  the  fear  of 
sorcerers  and  sorceresses.  Earnestly  taken  in  hand,  and 
gradually  educated,  there  is  nothing  to  prevent  the  New 
Guinea  nadves  so  rising  in  the  scale  of  citfilizadon  as 
to  become  an  honour  to  us  as  a nation  and  to  rise 
to  a worthy  national  life.  Looked  upon  as  in  every 
way  inferior  and  not  worthy  of  a place  in  the  great  human 
family,  and  treated  accordingly,  the  present  protection 
or  annexation  wiU  be  to  them  a curse,  and  an  everlasting 
shame  to  us. 

‘ \\Tiilst  I am  writing,  close  to  me  a number  of 
children  are  playing,  and  their  noise  of  laughter  and 
shouting  shows  they  have  little  care,  and  their  parents 
have  not  more.  Life  to  them  all  is  worth  living,  it  is 
more  than  endurable ; will  it  be  so  twenty  years  hence  ? 
I may  not  see  it,  but  I trust  others  will,  the  blessings 
of  Christianity  and  civilization  ever}’where  in  New 
Guinea,  and  children  as  numerous  and  happy  as  now, 
and  parents  thankful  for  Britain's  care  and  full  of  intelli- 
gent hopes  for  a greater  future.’ 

The  British  Government  deemed  it  necessary  (in 
December,  1S84)  to  hoist  the  British  flag  along  the 
north-eastern  coast  of  New  Guinea,  and  Chalmers 
accompanied  Commander  Ross  in  the  Raven  to  do  this 
work,  rendering  similar  sendees  to  those  he  had  given 
under  Commodore  Erskine.  He  refers  to  this,  among 
other  matters,  in  letters  sent  home,  dated  February  10 
and  March  29,  1885.  In  the  former  he  states: — 


Protection  of  Natives 


259 


‘ Thinking  the  Directors  with  yourself  would  wish  us  to 
assist  the  commodore,  I have  during  the  last  few  months 
been  engaged  flag-hoisting  on  each  side  of  New  Guinea 
and  on  the  adjacent  islands.  Had  I not  been  with  them, 
their  communication  with  the  various  tribes  would  not 
have  been  so  pleasing.  The  commodore  and  his  oflScers 
have  done  their  work  well,  and  I only  hope  that  what 
has  been  done  will  prove  to  be  for  the  good  of  all  the 
natives.  I returned  only  the  day  before  yesterday,  and 
leave  to-night  to  inquire  into  troubles  at  Kapakapa, 
and  then  go  further  east,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Romilly, 
to  make  inquiries  as  to  the  massacre  of  a white  man,  his 
wife  and  crew,  in  Cloudy  Bay.  You  must  do  your  utmost 
to  increase  our  staff. 

‘ The  Australasian  Geographical  Society,  representing 
all  the  colonies,  has  asked  me  to  take  charge  of  an 
expedition  to  explore  New  Guinea.  I wish  to  go  home 
first,  and  meet  you  all,  and  then  I could  decide.  If  I 
go  to  Britain,  I shall  expect  to  return  here  in  October. 
I dare  not  risk  a winter.  What  frightens  me  and  stands 
before  me  as  a terrible  scare  is  the  deputation  work. 

‘ I hear  you  have  appointed  a missionary  to  help  in 
the  work.  I hope  he  is  a good  all-round  man  without 
namby-pambyism,  ready  for  all  sorts  of  roughing  it. 
I have  as  much  zest  to-day  for  roughing  it  or  enjoying 
comforts  as  I ever  had.  I fancy  this  youth  of  old  age 
not  so  bad.  I am  in  better  health  all  round.  I think 
better  able  for  work  than  ever  I was.’ 

And  in  the  latter,  addressed  to  Mr.  Meikle,  he  wrote : — 
‘ Our  Governor,  General  Scratchley,  has  not  yet  arrived. 
Mr.  RomiUy,  his  representative,  is  staying  with  me.  We 
do  not  know  what  is  to  be  done,  what  form  the  pro- 
tection of  the  natives  will  take,  or  where  the  head- 
quarters of  Government  are  to  be.  We  are  daily  expect- 


26o  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 


ing  men-of-\var  to  punish  natives  who  have  committed 
murders  on  the  coasL  The  teachers  get  on  well  with 
the  natives,  and  at  several  stations  there  are  inquirers. 
At  all  the  stations  schools  are  tolerably  well  attended, 
and  many  can  read.  We  hope  to  extend  east  and  west 
about  the  end  of  the  year,  and  then  to  work  inland  to 
the  mountain  ranges. 

‘ On  the  other  side  of  Xew  Guinea  we  found  very  few 
natives  until  we  got  to  Rook  Island,  where  we  met  a very 
fine  tribe  of  natives,  dark,  well  made,  and  intelligent. 
They  practise  circumcision,  the  first  tribe  I have  met 
who  do  so  since  my  arrival  on  New  Guinea.  They 
would  gladly  have  kept  me.  Many  splendid  teachers 
could  be  had  from  amongst  them  after  they  have  received 
the  Gospel.  It  is  impossible  for  us  to  begin  a mission 
amongst  them  at  present.  We  fear  the  Roman  Catholics 
are  on  their  way  here  now,  and  if  they  settle  anywhere 
near  to  us  it  will  be  trouble  from  beginning  to  end. 
MTen  I do  go  home  I shall  soon  find  my  vi'ay  to 
Inveraray.’ 

Lawes,  a little  later,  May  8,  writes  on  the  same 
subject: — 

‘ It  is,  perhaps,  too  late  to  say  anything  about  the 
proclamation  of  the  Protectorate,  and  the  share  which 
Chalmers  and  I took  in  it.  I considered  I was  doing 
the  best  sendee  to  the  people  of  New  Guinea  by 
assisting  the  commodore  to  make  known  his  mission  to 
them.  He  asked  our  help.  We  gave  it  willingly,  and 
he  has  repeatedly  acknowledged  it  With  the  desira- 
bility, or  otherwise,  of  the  annexation  (for  such  it  will 
become)  we  have  nothing  to  do.  I have  never  by  letter 
or  word  of  mouth  sought  to  bring  it  about.  It  would 
have  been  better  for  our  work,  and  for  the  people,  if 
they  could  have  been  left  alone,  but  as  this  v^’as  impos- 


Annexation  by  Germany  261 

sible  it  is  far  better  to  have  an  English  Government 
than  any  other. 

‘ I have  had  several  interviews  and  much  correspon- 
dence with  General  Scratchley.  I believe  he  is  sincerely 
anxious  to  make  his  governorship  a success,  and  that 
he  will  try  his  utmost  to  solve  the  difficult  problem 
of  protecting  the  native  race  and  securing  white  men’s 
interests.  It  will  be  no  easy  task,  and  I am  more 
doubtful  than  sanguine  of  the  success.  It  is  impossible 
to  bring  nineteenth-century  ideas  and  government  into 
contact  with  the  primitive  customs  of  a barbarous 
people  without  much  friction  and  trouble.  We  who  at 
present  are  the  only  possible  interpreters,  and  who  alone 
have  the  confidence  of  the  people,  are  sure  to  have 
plenty  of  worry,  anxiety,  and  trouble,  while  others  will 
have  the  honour  and  get  the  pay.’ 

The  annexation  of  a portion  of  Northern  New  Guinea 
by  Germany  aroused  some  excitement.  But  Chalmers 
saw  nothing  to  fear  in  it.  He  wrote ; — 

‘ In  German  annexation,  on  the  other  side,  I think 
we  have  lost  nothing,  and  the  Germans  have  gained 
nothing.  The  natives  are  few  and  the  country  is  savage, 
with  mountains  everywhere.  What  is  really  good  of 
the  other  side  we  have  secured,  and  our  part  contains 
most  natives.  I know  that  this  is  so,  and  I write  from 
knowledge.  I have  been  all  round  the  coast,  and  say 
candidly  that  we  have  now  quite  enough  territory,  and 
ought  not  to  want  any  more.  Derby  was  right  in 
leaving  room  for  Germany.  The  colonies  are  angry 
from  ignorance.’ 

Romilly’s  hope  and  expectation  had  been  that  he 
would  himself  receive  the  appointment  as  first  Governor 
of  New  Guinea.  But  this  was  not  to  be.  Sir  Peter 
Scratchley  received  the  post,  and  threw  himself  with 


262  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 


great  vigour  into  the  work  of  organizing  the  govern- 
ment upon  a sound  basis,  and  of  making  himself 
acquainted  with  the  territor}'  he  had  to  administer. 

In  tr^-ing  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  the  people 
whom  he  was  to  govern,  he  was  most  anxious  to  avail 
himself  of  Chalmers’  ability  to  introduce  him  to  the 
natives,  and  to  make  things  eas\-  and  smooth.  And 
Chalmers  felt  that  any  services  he  could  render  would 
react  beneficially  in  the  governor's  attitude  towards 
the  natives. 

‘ Since  the  Special  Commissioner's  arrival,’  he  writes 
to  Mr.  Thompson,  ‘ I have  been  with  him,  introducing 
him  to  the  natives  and  interpreting  for  him.  He  is 
anxious  to  be  looked  upon  as  a firiend  of  the  mission, 
and  as  one  with  us  in  seeking  the  good  of  the  natives. 
I am  now  going  with  him  to  visit  the  north-east  coast, 
and  on  our  return  shall  go  to  the  Gulf.  Then  I hope  to 
have  a few  weeks’  spell  in  Sydney,  and  then  return  here, 
and  in  company  with  Lawes  place  the  new  teachers. 
I do  not  think  it  would  be  wise  for  me  to  go  home 
at  present.  I am  anxious  to  see  the  introduction  of 
English  rule,  and  to  help  if  possible ; and  so  far  we 
have  no  reason  to  complain. 

‘ There  is  not  the  slightest  fear  of  my  accepting  a 
position  in  the  Government.  I say  this  because  of 
a report  current  in  Australia.  I believe  Sir  Peter 
Scratchley  would  be  glad  if  I would  consent  to  serve 
under  him ; but  I have  given  him  to  understand  that 
I am  not  open  to  an  offer,  and  that  a missionaiy  I must 
remain.  I will  help  him  all  I can  conscientioush',  and 
I will  do  all  I can  for  the  natives.  He  is  ver\-  anxious 
I should  remain  in  New  Guinea  during  his  term,  and 
assist  in  the  inauguration.  I wish  to  go  home  and 
report  myseh";  stih,  if  I can  benefit  Xew  Guinea  I will 


New  Guinea  a Crown  Colony  263 

remain.  I am  in  excellent  health  and  good  spirits,  and 
not  much  tamed  from  old  days.  H.  O.  Forbes  begs  of 
me  to  take  charge  of  his  expedition  and  do  Mount 
Owen  Stanley.  Now  that  is  a temptation  and,  I may 
have  to  own  to  you,  a weakness.  My  Gulf  trip  must 
wait.  No  one  is  likely  to  run  me  out  there,  as  it  is 
a cannibal  country. 

‘ How  I wish  I could  spend  a quiet  evening  with  you, 
chat  over  the  present,  and  arrange  for  the  probable 
future!  I hope  to  see  a great  living  church  of  New 
Guineans  here,  and  to  see  go  out  from  it  a glorious 
band  of  native  teachers.’ 

The  concluding  stages  in  the  process  of  making 
British  New  Guinea  a Crown  Colony  may  be  very  briefly 
set  forth.  On  October  27, 1888,  British  New  Guinea  was 
formally  annexed  and  created  into  a separate  posses- 
sion and  government,  and  Dr.  (now  Sir)  William 
Macgregor,  K.C.M.G.,  appointed  the  Administrator. 
The  annexation  took  place  at  Port  Moresby  in  1888. 
Mr.  Lawes,  in  a letter  to  Mr.  Thompson,  describes 
the  closing  event  in  this  lengthy  series  of  official 
acts: — 

‘The  long-expected  proclamation  of  British  sove- 
reignty was  duly  performed  on  the  4th  instant. 
British  New  Guinea  is  now  a part  of  the  Queen’s 
dominions,  and  the  people  of  it  are  as  much  her  subjects 
as  you  and  I.  On  the  morning  of  that  day  the  Harrier, 
with  Tamate  on  board,  left  for  Thursday  Island,  so  that, 
to  our  regret,  he  was  not  present  at  the  inaugural 
function.  There  was  not  much  display,  and  it  was  well 
that  there  was  not,  for  flag- hoisting  must  seem  to  the 
natives  to  be  a white  man’s  amusement.  The  function 
of  the  4th  was  the  tenth  at  which  I had  been  present 
on  New  Guinea.  It  is  getting  monotonous. 


264  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 

‘ The  proclamation  was  duly  read,  Dr.  Macgregor  s 
app>ointment  as  Administrator,  the  Letters  Patent  con- 
taining his  instructions,  and  other  letters,  and  then  the 
oaths  of  allegiance  and  office  were  administered  by 
Captain  Bosanquet  of  Her  Majesty's  ship  Opal.  The 
royal  standard  was  hoisted,  and  saluted  with  twenty-one 
gims  from  the  Opal,  the  marines  fired  a feu  de  Joie^ 
three  cheers  for  the  Queen  were  given  by  the  white 
subjects,  and  the  ceremony  ended,  so  far  as  the  official 
programme  was  concerned.  But  as  soon  as  the  English 
cheers  died  away  a paru*  of  well-dressed  Xew  Guineans 
stood  up  behind  the  flagstaff  and  sang  clearly  and  well 
a verse  of  “ God  save  the  Queen.”  It  took  the  officers  and 
men  quite  by  surprise.  Dr.  iMacgregor  expressed  his 
surprise  and  pleasure  at  this  unexpected  addition  to  the 
ceremony.  Of  course  it  was  done  by  the  mission 
young  men  and  women.  MTien  I saw  them  groupyed 
behind  the  flagstafr  I sent  a message  to  them  which  thej’ 
obeyed  very  nicely. 

‘ I think  the  bearing  of  this  new  order  on  our  work 
win  be  for  good.  Dr.  Maegregor  is  a man  who 
thorough!}'  understands  natives,  and  in  his  long  Fijian 
experience  has  become  well  acquainted  with  the  work 
of  the  M'esleyan  ^Mission,  and  with  the  persons  of  the 
teachers.  This  is  an  enormous  advantage,  and  one  for 
which  we  may  be  deeply  grateful.  Any  one  who 
knows  the  misunderstandings  and  friction  of  the  last 

O 

three  years  will  appreciate  it.  I am  quite  certain  that 
the  natives  and  mission  have  a good  friend  in  Dr.  Mae- 
gregor. 

‘ Already  laws  (officially  called  Ordinances)  have  been 
passed,  by  which  the  land  has  been  secured  to  the 
natives  in  a more  stringent  manner  than  we  dared  to 
hope  for.  Deportation  of  natives  has  been  made  illegal. 


Tribute  to  Mr.  Chalmers^  Services  265 

and  the  introduction  of  intoxicants,  opium,  firearms,  and 
explosives  is  prohibited.’ 

Here  then  end  the  transformations  on  New  Guinea 
in  her  political  relations,  and  long  may  she  be 
administered  in  the  way  adopted  in  1888,  namely,  in 
the  determination  to  govern  her,  so  far  as  possible,  in 
the  best  interests  of  the  natives,  rather  than  in  the 
interests  of  white  immigrants. 

We  cannot  better  close  this  chapter  in  the  life  of 
Chalmers  than  by  recording  the  testimony  to  his  worth, 
and  the  exceptional  value  of  the  services  he  rendered 
to  the  nation,  given  by  Vice-Admiral  Bridge.  In  a 
letter  to  the  Times ^ dated  May  4,  1901,  Admiral  Bridge 
said : — 

‘I  first  met  Mr.  Chalmers  in  1884,  when  the  British 
flag  was  hoisted  in  Southern  New  Guinea  by  the  present 
Sir  James  Erskine,  who  then  commanded  the  squadron 
on  the  Australian  station.  I was  at  that  time  serving 
under  Sir  James’s  orders ; and  I am  sure  that  my 
distinguished  chief  will  be  most  ready  to  testify  to  the 
value  of  the  assistance  rendered  him  in  a difiicult  opera- 
tion by  Mr.  Chalmers  and  his  colleague  Dr.  Lawes. 

‘Mr.  Chalmers  accompanied  me  in  the  ship  I then 
commanded  on  an  expedition  to  Kapakapa  and  Kaile 
on  which  I had  been  sent  by  Sir  James  Erskine.  At 
my  urgent  request  Mr.  Chalmers  again  accompanied 
me,  early  in  1885,  on  a special  expedition — in  H.M.S. 
Dart,  commanded  by  the  present  Captain  W.  Usborne 
Moore — to  North-eastern  New  Guinea  and  Rook  Island. 
His  vigilance,  cheeriness,  readiness  of  resource,  and 
extraordinary  influence  over  native  savages  made  his 
help  quite  invaluable.  I can  honestly  say  that  I do  not 
know  how  I should  have  got  on  without  him.  He  had 
an  equal  power  of  winning  the  confidence  of  savages 


266  The  Annexation  of  New  Guinea 


quite  unused  to  strangers  and  the  respect,  and  even 
love,  of  white  seamen.  Notwithstanding  the  great  in- 
convenience and,  I fear,  not  inconsiderable  expense  to 
which  he  had  been  put  by  giving  his  valuable  services 
in  the  expeditions  mentioned,  he  firmly  refused  to  allow 
his  name  to  be  officially  submitted  in  any  claim  for 
pecuniary’  remuneration,  or  even  to  accept  the  legitimate 
compensation  to  which  he  was  entitled. 

‘ It  is  difficult  to  do  justice  in  writing  to  the  character 
of  this  really  great  Englishman.  One  had  only  to  know 
and  live  with  him  in  out-of-the-way  lands  to  be  convinced 
that  he  was  endowed  with  the  splendid  characteristics 
which  distinguished  our  most  eminent  explorers  and 
pioneers. 

‘ In  these  days,  in  which  tame  depends  on  skill  and 
audacity  in  self-advertisement,  it  will  not,  it  is  hoped,  be 
thought  out  of  place  to  offer  even  such  a defective 
tribute  as  this  letter  is  to  the  memory  of  a loyal  subject 
and  brave  and  self-sacrificing  man,  of  whom  his  country- 
men know  nothing,  because  he  did  his  noble  work 
outside  the  sphere  of  influence  of  the  newspaper  corre- 
spondent,’ 


CHAPTER  VIII 

FIRST  VISIT  HOME,  1886 

Chalmers  left  New  Guinea  for  England  on  May  1 1 , 
1886,  and,  travelling  by  way  of  Sydney,  Melbourne,  and 
Bombay,  reached  London  on  August  10.  His  furlough 
was  about  ten  years  overdue,  and  he  reluctantly  tore 
himself  away  from  New  Guinea  in  deference  to  the 
repeated  and  urgent  requests  of  the  Directors,  rather 
than  from  any  desire  or  need  that  he  felt  for  rest  and 
change.  He  had  exaggerated  notions  about  the  extent 
to  which  life  among  savages  had  unfitted  him  for  the 
restraints  and  the  conventions  of  civilization ; about 
the  burden  of  deputation  work,  and  his  own  special 
unfitness  for  it ; and  about  his  inability,  after  twenty 
years  in  the  tropics,  to  stand  the  variable,  damp  and 
cold  climate  of  Britain.  Deep  interest  in  him  had 
been  felt  for  years  by  the  Directors,  and  by  many  of  the 
churches.  They  honoured  him  for  the  noble  work  he 
had  done,  and  for  the  varied  adventures  through  which 
he  had  safely  and  successfully  passed  in  seeking  to  plant 
the  Gospel  in  New  Guinea.  Though  unknown  by  feature 
or  voice  his  fame  had  reached  many  who  were  prepared 
to  give  him  a hearty  welcome  had  he  possessed  far  less 
magnetic  attraction  than  he  did.  He  was  welcomed  home 
at  a meeting  of  the  Directors  held  in  the  Board  Room 
in  Blomfield  Street,  in  London,  on  Monday,  August  30, 
1886. 

It  was  a memorable  gathering.  The  room  was 


268 


First  Visit  Home,  1886 

crowded  with  those  who  were  eager  to  look  upon  the 
face  and  to  hear  the  voice  of  the  renowned  pioneer 
missionary.  Honoured  for  his  work’s  sake,  he  imme- 
diately won  the  hearts  of  those  who  felt  for  the  first 
time  the  magnetism  of  his  personality,  and  the  intense 
force  of  his  enthusiasm.  Who  that  was  present  at  that 
meeting  has  forgotten  it } Mr.  Thompson  introduced 
him  with  the  insight  and  the  sympathy  which  are  always 
the  marked  features  of  the  speeches  in  which  he  intro- 
duces missionaries  from  the  field  to  the  Board.  There 
was  also  the  brodierly  love  of  the  distant  Cheshunt  days 
acting  and  reacting  upon  the  two  men.  Widely  sundered 
had  their  pathways  been  since  in  the  sixties  one  went  to 
the  great  Scotch  city  of  Glasgow,  and  the  other  to  remote 
Rarotonga.  Twenty-one  years  later  they  find  themselves 
linked  together ; one  bearing  the  responsibihty  of  the 
world-wide  foreign  work  of  the  great  Society ; the  other 
adding  to  those  responsibihties  by  the  success  and  the 
resdess  vigour  of  his  efforts  to  enter  into  new  fields  of 
labour,  and  to  evangelize  heathen  tribes  yet  in  darkness. 
No  wonder  there  was  deep  feeling  in  Mr.  Thompson’s 
voice  while  he  referred  to  Chalmers  as  an  intrepid 
explorer,  a friend  trusted  by  many  savage  tribes,  a 
faithful  Christian  missionary,  and  one  who,  wherever  he 
went,  was  known  as  a man  whose  constant  aim  it  was  to 
secure  the  reign  of  peace  and  goodwill  on  the  earth. 

‘ Wlien  Mr.  Chalmers  rose  to  reply,’  the  records  teU  us, 
‘ he  was  heard  with  the  deepest  interest.  His  stalwart 
form  and  genial  face,  bronzed  with  travel  and  with  toil 
in  a tropical  cHme,  the  story  he  had  to  tell,  and  the 
message  which  he  had  at  last  come  to  deliver,  and  but 
for  which  he  would  not  have  come  home  at  all,  were 
alike  impressive.  It  was  easy  to  see  that,  accustomed  as 
the  Directors  were  to  the  reception  of  returning  mission- 


Popularity  at  Home  269 

aries,  they  were  on  this  occasion  deeply  moved. 
Mr.  Chalmers  spoke  modestly  about  himself;  but  he 
was  emphatic  in  the  delivery  of  his  message.  The 
work  in  New  Guinea  was  growing  fast,  more  labourers 
must  forthwith  be  sent  to  enter  in  at  the  open  doors, 
New  Guinea  wanted  men.  New  Guinea  must  have  men.’ 
In  this,  his  first  utterance  at  home,  Chalmers  struck 
sharply,  and  with  force,  the  note  that  was  dominant 
in  all  his  after  addresses  through  the  length  and  breadth 
of  the  land. 

In  the  autumn  of  1886  Chalmers  began  a long  round 
of  deputation  visits  to  the  churches  in  Britain  which 
support  the  work  of  the  London  Missionary  Society. 
Wherever  he  went  he  thrilled  his  audiences  with  the 
marvellous  story  he  had  to  tell.  His  own  burning 
enthusiasm,  the  love  for  his  work  and  for  the  savages 
he  was  striving  to  uplift,  which  shone  through  every 
public  utterance,  his  massive  frame  and  head,  his  flashing 
eyes,  his  trumpet-toned  voice,  touched  the  heart  of  every 
gathering,  great  and  small,  and  created  in  multitudes  of 
breasts  an  undying  interest  in  the  evangelization  of  New 
Guinea.  In  a few  weeks  he  became  one  of  the  most 
popular  missionary  speakers  of  the  nineteenth  century. 

A missionary  home  on  furlough,  and  the  more  if  he 
happens  to  be  in  popular  demand  as  a deputation 
speaker,  has  a hard  time.  There  is  sometimes  more 
than  a touch  of  irony  in  the  occupations  which  fill  up 
a missionary’s  season  of  rest  and  change.  Churches  and 
audiences  think  that  the  tired  worker  must  be  as  eager 
to  see  and  inspire  them  as  they  are  to  look  upon  the 
men  and  women  who  in  the  hard  places  of  the  field  have 
been  doing  noble  service.  And  the  churches  are  not 
unfrequently  wholly  unreasonable  in  their  demands 
upon  the  Home  Secretary  of  the  Society,  and  through 


270 


First  Visit  Home,  1886 


him  upon  the  time  and  strength  and  enthusiasm  of  a 
man  like  Chalmers.  The  day  may  not  be  far  distant 
when  missionaries  will  have  to  be  protected  from  the 
rapacious  demands  of  the  home  churches  upon  their 
nervous  and  spiritual  energy  and  upon  their  physical 
power.  Up  to  the  full  measure  of  strength,  and  some- 
times even  beyond  their  strength,  our  missionaries  serve 
us  in  the  home  churches,  and  their  reward  is  not  always 
equal  to  their  self-sacrifice. 

Into  a constantly  increasing  rush  of  engagements  of 
many  kinds  Chalmers  found  himself  drawn  almost  as 
soon  as  he  reached  England.  One  who  soon  became 
an  intimate  friend  and  correspondent  has  placed  at  the 
author’s  disposal  a large  number  of  letters  beginning  at 
this  time.  Extracts  from  these,  and  from  other  letters 
of  this  date,  are  the  best  exposition  of  Chalmers’  life  and 
thought  at  this  time.  It  is  T amate  among  home  influences 
as  sketched  by  himself. 

‘Retford,  November  ii.  I got  here  yesterday 
morning,  and  leave  to-morrow  night.  After  leaving 
you  on  Eriday  we  got  to  town  in  rain,  i\Ir.  Blomfield  going 
to  the  Bible  House,  and  I to  the  Mission  House.  In  the 
afternoon  I visited  Sir  Robert  Herbert,  Under  Secretary 
for  the  Colonies,  and  went  over  New  Guinea  afiairs. 
He  is  anxious  I should  meet  Stanhope,  and  I hope  to  do 
so,  and  may  have  to  travel  from  Scotland,  for  that  pur- 
pose. We  had  a splendid  meeting  at  Hackney  College, 
and  I hope  some  will  hear  the  iNIaster  calling  them  to 
foreign  work.  They  have  a fine  lot  of  young  fellows ; 
it  would  be  such  a pity  if  they  all  stayed  at  home.’ 

‘Retford,  December  12.  I am  well,  only  my  knees 
refuse  much  duty.  I shall  be  right  for  next  month. 
I have  finished  draft  of  my  Colonial  Institute  paper,  and 
start  my  Geographical  Society  one.’ 


TAMATE  ON  DEPUTATION  WORK,  1886. 


Deputation  Engagements  271 

‘ Retford,  February  2,  1887.  I shall  have  finished  my 
book  work  to-night  and  then  to  another  Sunday  at 
Home  paper.  I find  old  age  advancing  from  the  worry 
of  editors,  and  fancy  I am  getting  greyer  day  by  day. 
Next  week  I go  to  town  from  Wolverhampton.  I have 
just  had  a note  from  Lady  Spokes  wanting  me  for  the 
22nd  to  dinner,  and  would  I just  come  about  five,  as 
there  is  to  be  a ladies’  working  party  for  the  Sevenoaks 
bazaar?  Oh  horrors!  fancy  me  addressing  a ladies’ 
meeting ! Yet  I must  go  if  possible.  If  you  do  not  see 
the  bronzed  savage  next  week  you  may  some  time  after. 
Well,  I have  bronchitis,  and  move  about  wheezing  and 
puffing  like  an  old  engine.’ 

‘ Cheltenham,  April  19.  To-night  Gloucester,  to- 
morrow back  here.  Thursday  Cambridge  Heath.  Friday 
Liverpool,  also  Sunday  and  Monday.  Then  Dundee, 
Greenock,  and  Edinburgh.  The  last  engagement  is  on 
May  4,  before  the  United  Presbyterian  Synod,  on 
missions.  5th,  Camden  Town ; 6th,  Religious  Tract 
Society.  Not  bad  for  a savage.  I am  well,  and  drink 
in  this  summer  weather.  This  morning  all  over  the 
moors  after  finishing  my  correspondence.’ 

‘Northampton,  May  5.  I saw  the  Earl  of  Onslow; 
he  only  wanted  me  to  know  that  the  government  of  New 
Guinea  would  be  very  much  on  the  lines  of  my  books 
and  papers,  but  he  said,  and  here  was  the  real  reason 
why  he  wanted  to  see  me,  “ I have  heard  you  might 
take  a government  position,  and  if  you  would  apply  we 
should  certainly  give  it  immediate  consideration.”  That 
was  a feeler,  and  I replied,  “ I have  never,  my  lord, 
hinted  even  that  I should  like  such  a position,  and  when 
spoken  to  about  it  I have  always  given  a negative  ; and 
if  asked  to  now  I should  require  much  consideration.” 
^ This  refers  to  Pioneering  in  New  Guinea. 


272 


First  Visit  Home^  1886 

They  would  like  me  to  apply.  I will  have  them  ask 
me  for  a negative. 

‘ The  weather  is  deplorable,  far  more  than  “ clean 
ridiculous.”  I have  a grand  host  of  bairns  to  address  at 
Retford  on  Tuesday,  and  at  night  travel  to  the  north. 
On  my  return  to  London  I had  better  fix  myself  at  the 
Mission  House  and  pack,  and  visit  Stratford,  Woolwich, 
Maidenhead,  and  Rye.  Then  come  the  farewells,  and  it 
may  be  I shall  join  the  ship  at  Plymouth.’ 

These  glances  at  his  correspondence  show  how  the 
days  and  weeks  of  his  stay  in  Britain  were  filled  with 
manifold  occupations.  The  numerous  friends  Chalmers 
made  wherever  he  went  were  anxious  to  see  all  they 
could  of  him.  There  were  relatives  and  old  friends  in 
Scotland  and  elsewhere  to  visit.  Then  he  was  engaged 
in  seeing  through  the  press  his  new  book  Piojieering 
in  New  Gtiinea^  and  in  writing  a series  of  papers  for 
the  Sunday  at  Ho77ie.  He  also  read  papers  on  New 
Guinea  before  the  members  of  the  Colonial  Institute  and 
the  Royal  Geographical  Society.  In  addition  to  aU  this 
varied  work  he  was  preaching  almost  every  Sunday, 
and  speaking  three  or  four  or  five  times  a week. 

He  took  part  in  two  of  the  great  annual  May 
meetings  by  speaking  in  Exeter  HaU  for  the  Religious 
Tract  Society  on  l\Iay  6,  1887,  and  for  the  London 
Missionary  Society  on  May  12.  Both  addresses  were  of 
exceptional  interest  and  power,  and  hke  aU  his  speeches 
uttered  under  deep  feeling,  and  full  of  biographical 
interest.  At  the  former  meeting  Chalmers  bore  testi- 
mony, in  common  with  missionaries  of  all  the  great 
evangelical  societies,  to  the  help  he  had  received  in  his 
work  from  the  Religious  Tract  Society. 

‘ As  a missionary  in  the  Hervey  group  I received 
from  time  to  time  very  great  assistance  in  my  mission 


273 


Speech  for  Tract  Society 

work  from  this  Society.  Books  that  had  been  translated 
into  the  Rarotongan  dialect  have  been  prepared  at  home 
here.  The  hymn-books  used  by  all  the  natives  were 
prepared  by  the  Religious  Tract  Society.  They  have 
also  occasionally  sent  out  to  Rarotonga  bales  of  paper 
on  which  books  were  printed  for  the  use  of  the  natives  ; 
and  it  was  through  their  help  that  for  some  time  I was 
able  to  publish  a newspaper ; at  first  one  number  a 
fortnight,  afterwards  once  a month.  The  object  I had 
in  view  was  to  interest  the  natives  in  the  outside  world 
that  they  might  know  there  was  something  away 
beyond  them.  Living  in  a small  island  like  that,  not 
only  the  natives,  but  even  white  men  are  apt  to  think 
that  all  the  world  is  there.  It  was  during  the  time  of 
the  Franco- Prussian  war  that  this  paper  was  being 
published.  After  giving  an  account  of  one  of  the  battles 
fought,  I remember,  on  a Friday,  which  was  set  apart  for 
prayer  for  New  Guinea,  a chief  present  rose  and  said : 
“ Stay ! we  are  going  to  send  teachers,  I believe,  to  the 
large  island  of  New  Guinea ; but  I have  just  been 
reading  in  the  newspaper  an  account  of  an  un-Christian 
war  that  is  being  carried  on  in  Europe,  and  what  I pro- 
pose is  that  we  should  send  teachers  to  France  and  to 
Prussia.  When  the  missionaries  came  here  they  taught 
us  that  fighting  was  bad,  but  we  find  that  those  nations 
that  are  called  civilized  still  believe  in  fighting,  although 
the  Bible  tells  us  it  is  indeed  bad.” 

‘ Coming  now  to  New  Guinea,  we  have  not  yet 
received  help  from  this  Society  in  that  island ; but  I 
sincerely  trust  that  the  day  is  very  near  when  we  shall 
be  able  to  ask  your  committee  to  assist  us  in  giving 
literature  to  the  natives  there.  At  present  we  have  had 
one  or  two  school  books  published  in  Sydney  for  the 
use  of  the  natives.  We  have  begun  to  teach  them  to 

S 


274 


First  Visit  Home,  1886 

read.  People  think  we  missionaries  go  out  to  those 
parts  of  the  world,  and  from  morning  to  night  do 
nothing  but  preach  sermons.  It  is  quite  a mistake.  It 
is  not  the  preaching  of  a sermon  so  much  as  the  hving 
the  hfe  that  teUs  on  the  native  heart.  It  is  bv  livinor 
a divine  life,  by  striving  to  foUow  in  the  footsteps  of 
Him  who  came  to  express  the  Father’s  love,  that  we  win 
the  heart  of  the  savage,  and  raise  him  up  to  become 
a true  man  or  woman  in  Jesus  Christ, 

‘ \\'e  have  to  begin  at  the  ver\*  beginning  of  thin<rs. 

e have  to  get  the  children  and  grown  up  people 
about  us,  and  teach  them  the  alphabet ; and  it  is  not  so 
easv  as  in  the  schools  here.  For  weeks  vou  go  over 
the  five  vowels,  and  then  they  come  back  to  teU  you 
they  have  forgotten  all  about  it.  It  is  the  same  in 
teaching  them  Bible  truths.  "\Miat  interests  them  most 
is  to  teU  them  a stort*,  say  about  Adam  and  Eve.  or 
Cain  and  Abel.  Xoah  and  the  Flood  is  a most  charming 
story  to  them.  Or  we  take  one  of  our  Lord’s  miracles, 
or  one  of  His  parables,  and  in  a quiet  conversational 
way  we  tell  them  about  it.  You  cannot  get  them  to  stay 
long  at  sert'ices — sometimes  only  ten  or  twenty  minutes— 
but  when  they  begin  to  become  interested,  they  wiU 
stay  for  an  hour,  but  never  beyond  that.  They  would 
simply  fall  ofi*  to  sleep  if  we  continued  for  very  much 
longer.  I suppose  people  do  not  sleep  at  all  at  the 
services  in  England  ? 

‘ I went  down  to  Hall’s  Sound  with  a native  to  put 
up  a mission  house  for  teachers  that  we  expected  to 
be  able  to  place  there.  The  plan  we  adopt  is  to  have 
shorn  prayers  even.'  morning  at  sunrise,  and  every 
evening  at  sunset.  When  traveUing  on  foot  or  on  board 
a boat,  or  when  living  with  natives  ashore,  we  have 
prayers  at  sunrise  and  sunset.  The  rainmaker  there, 


Death  of  Kone 


275 


a native  named  Kone,  whose  acquaintance  I had  made 
on  a former  visit,  became  interested  in  these  services. 
I taught  him  a little  prayer,  “ Great  Spirit  of  Love,  give 
me  light;  save  me  for  Jesus’ sake.”  Again  and  again 
I had  to  go  over  it.  He  would  go  down  to  the  village 
and,  by-and-by,  come  back  and  say,  “ I have  forgotten 
it  ” ; but  at  the  last  he  got  hold  of  it,  and  remembered  it. 
I left,  and  a few  months  afterwards  I returned  to  the 
same  place,  and  found  the  rainmaker  had  been  killed. 
Thinking  that  because  I had  preached  peace  to  his  tribe, 
he  had  power  to  bring  peace  to  all  the  other  tribes,  he 
sent  for  two  Naara  men  to  come,  as  he  wished  to  talk 
to  them  about  making  peace  in  the  neighbouring  village. 
These  two  men  were  with  him  when  the  dancing  began 
in  the  evening,  and  he  saw  the  chief  of  the  Lolo  tribe, 
with  whom  they  were  at  enmity,  coming  stealthily 
through  the  crowd  with  spears  to  attack  them.  He 
threw  one,  and  would  have  struck  a Naara  man,  but 
the  rainmaker  stepped  in  front  of  him,  and  received  the 
spear  himself ; and  they  carried  him  home  to  die.  When 
he  was  dying  his  one  great  wish  was  to  send  for  me, 
but  it  was  impossible,  as  the  south-east  wind  was  blowing 
too  strongly.  Every  now  and  again  that  poor  savage 
in  his  great  darkness  could  be  heard  saying,  “ Great 
Spirit  of  Love,  give  me  light;  save  me  for  Jesus’  sake.” 
He  could  not  understand  all  that  he  was  asking:  I know 
that  well ; but  I do  think  that  the  Great  Spirit  of  Love 
stretched  out  the  great  arm  of  Divine  strength,  took  that 
poor  dark  savage  by  the  hand,  and  led  him  from  the 
darkness  and  superstition  and  savageism  of  earth  up  to 
His  own  home  in  heaven.  What  we  want,  then,  is  this, 
that  when  the  people  become  educated  in  a few  more 
years  you  as  a Society  will  take  part  in  this  great  work; 
that  you  will  come  to  our  help  and  assist  us  to  educate 

S 2 


276  First  Visit  Home,  i836 

them  still  more ; to  educate  a people  worthy  of  the 
, name  of  Christ.’ 

Chalmers’  address  at  the  Exeter  Hall  meetino-  of  the 

o 

London  Missionary  Society  was  the  climax  of  his  public 
work  during-  this  visit  home.  Exeter  Hall  was  Towded, 
and  although  other  able  speakers  w'ere  there  it  is  no 
discredit  to  them  to  say  that  the  main  interest  of  the 
meeting  centred  in  Tamate’s  unpolished  but  thrilling 
eloquence.  We  recall  a few  of  the  most  striking 
passages. 

‘ I have  had  twenty-one  years’  experience  amongst 
natives.  I have  seen  the  semi-civilized  and  the  un- 
civilized ; I have  lived  with  the  Christian  native,  and 
I have  lived,  dined,  and  slept  with  the  cannibal.  I have 
visited  the  islands  of  the  New  Hebrides,  which  I sincerely 
trust  will  not  be  handed  over  to  the  tender  mercies  of 
France  ; I have  visited  the  Loyalty  Group,  I have  seen 
the  work  of  missions  in  the  Samoan  Group,  I know  all 
the  islands  of  the  Society  Group,  I have  lived  for  ten 
years  in  the  Hervey  Group,  I know  a few  of  the  groups 
close  on  the  line,  and  for  at  least  nine  years  of  my  life 
I hav^e  lived  with  the  savages  of  New  Guinea ; but  I have 
never  yet  met  with  a single  man  or  woman,  or  a single 
people,  that  your  civilization  without  Christianity  has 
civilized.  For  God’s  sake  let  it  be  done  at  once ! 
Gospel  and  commerce,  but  remember  this,  it  must  be 
the  Gospel  first.  Wherever  there  has  been  the  slightest 
spark  of  civilization  in  the  Southern  Seas  it  has  been 
because  the  Gospel  has  been  preached  there,  and 
wherever  you  find  in  the  Island  of  New  Guinea  a 
friendly  people,  or  a people  that  will  welcome  you, 
there  the  missionaries  of  the  Cross  have  been  preaching 
Christ.  Civilization  ! The  rampart  can  only  be  stormed 
by  those  who  carry  the  Cross. 


At  Exeter  Hall  for  L.  M.  S. 


277 


‘ Recall  the  twenty-one  years,  give  me  back  all  Its 
experience,  give  me  its  shipwrecks,  give  me  its  standings 
in  the  face  of  death,  give  it  me  surrounded  with  savages 
with  spears  and  clubs,  give  it  me  back  again  with  spears 
flying  about  me,  with  the  club  knocking  me  to  the 
ground,  give  it  me  back,  and  I will  still  be  your 
missionary ! ’ 

‘ How  do  we  preach  the  Gospel  ? No,  we  do  not 
go  w'ith  a black  coat  and  white  necktie  standing  in  the 
boat  with  a Bible  in  our  hand.  We  go  as  man  to  man, 
to  try  and  live  the  Gospel.  The  day  before  yesterday 
I was  with  some  of  my  brethren  at  Cheshunt  College, 
and  I told  them  a story  there  that  I think  will  do  well 
here.  I had  been  travelling  away  back  among  the 
mountain  ranges  for  some  time.  I was  away  on  that 
trip  for  three  months.  We  had  run  short  of  food  ; we 
were  travelling  with  our  own  kits  ; they  call  them  swags 
in  Australia.  Mine  was  pretty  heavy,  but  not  so  heavy 
as  the  others.  We  had  very  little  to  eat  on  Monday, 
and  on  Tuesday,  and  on  Wednesday,  and  on  Thursday 
we  got  but  a few  bananas  that  we  could  pick  up ; and 
I never  want  to  see  a banana  again,  except  when  hungry. 
It  came  to  Friday — no  bananas  — and  on  Saturday  I was 
dead  beat,  and  at  three  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  I threw 
down  my  swag,  and  sat  down  on  It.  I was  sore  pressed. 
What  was  to  be  done  ? We  never  travelled  on  Sunday  ; 
but  we  could  not  starve.  We  had  met  with  no  nativ^es. 
We  were  travelling  through  an  unknown  country.  The 
natives  were  far  away  on  either  side  of  us,  and  we  could 
not  tell  where  to  look  for  them.  At  last  I said  to  the 
party : “ Give  one  long  loud  shout,  as  loud  as  you 
possibly  can ; I cannot  help  you.”  Then  there  was 
one  grand  loud  5^ell,  and  suddenly  it  was  answered  by 
another,  and  then  there  was  another  yell,  and  a man 


278  First  Visit  Home,  1886 

and  a lad  came  out  of  the  bush,  followed  b}’  a woman 
carrying  a baby.  She  came  up,  and  my  look  of  sorrow 
and  want  touched  the  savage  heart.  She  stood  and 
looked  over  me— we  could  not  speak  a single  word  to 
one  another,  but  she  indicated  to  me  that  I was  to  get 
up.  She  had  a knitted  bag,  and  she  took  up  that  swag 
of  mine,  and  put  it  into  the  bag.  I rushed  to  seize  the 
baby— it  was  light  compared  with  my  swag — but  she 
objected  to  that,  and  after  placing  the  babj'  on  the  top, 
she  signed  that  I was  to  follow.  I followed,  and  the 
others  came  by-and-by.  After  passing  through  the 
bush,  we  came  to  a few  houses.  She  motioned  that 
I was  to  sit  down.  She  went  away,  and  shortly  after- 
wards returned  and  placed  food  before  me,  and 
motioned  me  to  eat.  You  know  it  was  in  that  way 
that  we  begin  to  preach  the  Gospel.  Her  action  was 
a gospel  to  me.  Touch  the  heart  of  a man,  let  him 
be  cannibal,  savage,  I care  not  what,  give  a look  of 
kindness  and  sympathy,  and  you  will  get  the  same  in 
return. 

‘Twelve  months  last  December  I visited  South  Cape, 
when  I was  left  there  by  Sir  Peter  Scratchley,  the  first 
Special  Commissioner  appointed  by  Her  Majesty  to  the 
new  Protectorate.  He  left  us  to  go  to  the  Australian 
coast  to  die.  A man  full  of  interest  and  of  earnestness 
in  the  work  already  undertaken,  who  thoroughly  ap- 
preciated the  position  in  which  we  stood  on  the  island, 
and  heartily  thanked  us  for  doing  such  great  things 
for  the  Master  and  for  the  Government.  MTilst  I was 
there,  on  the  first  Sunday  in  December,  I met  with 
a large  company  of  Christian  men  and  women,  and  sat 
down  and  partook  of  the  ordinance  of  the  Lord’s 
Supper,  administered  by  a native  pastor— one  of  our 
South  Sea  Islanders.  There  I was,  united  with  and 


At  Colonial  Institute 


279 


shedding  tears  of  joy  with  men  and  women  who  as 
cannibals  and  savages  had  only  a few  years  before 
sought  our  lives.  What  did  it?  It  is  the  old  story 
still  of  the  Gospel  of  Christ ! ’ 

The  great  societies,  specially  interested  for  different 
reasons  in  New  Guinea,  were  not  likely  to  miss  the 
opportunity  of  seeing  and  hearing  Mr.  Chalmers.  On 
the  evening  of  Jan.  ii,  1887,  in  Prince’s  Hall  he  read 
a paper  before  the  members  of  the  Colonial  Institute, 
entitled  ‘New  Guinea— Past,  Present,  and  Future’.' 
This  is  a comprehensive  title,  and  the  paper  was  a wide 
survey  of  the  history  of  New  Guinea,  the  facts  about 
the  people  and  their  life,  and  the  right  course  for  Great 
Britain  to  pursue  in  the  effort  to  rule  them  wisely  and 
well.  There  are  in  it  many  characteristic  passages, 
some  of  which  throw  light  upon  Chalmers’  views  at 
this  time  , both  as  to  his  past  work  and  also  as  to  the 
future  of  his  adopted  home. 

‘ Only  by  patient  toil,  only  by  many  weary  months, 
perhaps  years,  of  the  old  “ open  sesame  ” key  will  the 
great  unknown  be  opened  and  known.  High  moun- 
tains, dense  bush,  weary  fetid  swamps,  hostile  natives 
may  lie  in  the  way,  yet  to  every  traveller  I say:— Go 
on ; your  little  adds  to  the  muckle,  and  by-and-by  the 
doors  will  be  thrown  open,  and  future  travellers,  enter- 
ing by  the  doors  you  have  opened,  will  laugh  at  your 
troubles,  your  narrow  escapes,  your  difficulties,  and  will 
marvel  at  what  they  will  suppose  to  be  your  highly- 
coloured  narratives  of  danger. 

* We  are  constantly  reminded  that  the  natives  of  New 
Guinea  are  terrible  savages,  and  ought  not  to  live,  but 
we  who  have  lived  amongst  them  think  otherwise,  and 
will  do  all  we  can  to  preserve  them  as  a people  or 
' See  Royal  Colonial  Institute  Proceedings,  vol.  xviii,  pp.  88-122. 


28o 


First  Visit  Home,  1886 

peoples.  The  only  real  attempt  at  Christianizing’  or 
civilizing  them  has  been  made  by  the  London  ^lissionarj^ 
Society,  at  a great  outlay  of  money  and  loss  of  life. 
That  Society  has  held  nobly  to  the  work,  and  great 
have  been  the  results.  Others  have  borne  testimony  to 
the  work  accomplished,  and  it  will  scarcely  become  me 
to  dilate  upon  it.  Nowhere,  except  at  mission  stations, 
is  there  any  appearance  of  civilization.  I hold  verj' 
strong  views  on  what  is  called  civilization.  For  more 
than  twenty  years  I have  been  amongst  natives.  I know 
a little  of  New  Guinea,  have  visited  the  New  Hebrides, 
Loyalty  Group,  Samoas,  Heney  Group,  Society  and 
Leeward  Islands,  Penrhyns,  Humphrey  Group,  and 
Danger  Island,  and  nowhere  have  I seen  our  boasted 
civilization  civilizing,  but  everywhere  have  I seen 
Christianity  acting  as  the  true  civilizer. 

‘ In  the  inland  villages  tree  houses  are  found,  which 
are  called  dobos^  and  which  are  used  in  case  of  an 
attack.  In  every  one  of  these  dobos  large  bundles  of 
spears  are  kept,  and  great  quantities  of  stones  suitable 
for  throwing.  Sometimes  coming  unexpectedly  upon 
a village,  an  alarm  was  given,  and  the  women  and 
children  would  at  once  rush  for  the  tree  houses,  followed 
by  a few  men,  whilst  others,  seizing  their  spears  and 
shields,  rushed  out  to  meet  us  and  challenged  our 
approach,  IMy  invariable  plan  has  been  to  take  very 
little  notice,  but  holding  up  one  hand  to  walk  steadily, 
and  apparently  carelessly,  on,  calling  7nai7io  (peace)  and 
laughing  at  them. 

' Give  the  native  of  New  Guinea  a chance,  and  I feel 
sure  he  can  be  what  is  called  “ raised.”  I wish 
I could  plead  for  him  that  I might  be  heard ; that 
I could  feel  sure  that  the  terms  of  the  proclamation 
would  be  faithfully  carried  out.  I know,  if  that  were 


How  to  rule  New  Guinea 


281 


done,  the  time  would  never  come  when  it  would  be 
necessary  to  serve  out  blankets  and  flour  to  the  Papuan. 
Teach  our  natives,  encourage  them  in  trade,  and  they 
will  never  want  your  charity. 

‘ If,  as  a nation,  we  are  anxious  to  learn  from  the 
past ; if  we  desire  to  treat  these  Papuans  differently  and 
reserve  for  them  their  lands  and  rights,  let  us  begin  at 
once  with  ruling  for  that  end.  I believe  Christianity, 
alone  can  raise  New  Guinea,  and  make  a people  worthy 
of  the  name.  It  alone  can  civilize  and  lead  aright  its 
natives,  and  I therefore  say  encourage  mission  stations 
everywhere.’ 

An  important  discussion  followed  the  reading  of  the 
paper,  in  which  Dr.  Doyle  Glanville,  Sir  James  Garrick 
(agent-general  for  Queensland),  Captain  Henderson, 
R.N.,  Lieutenant-General  R.  W.  Lowry,  C.B.,  Dr.  Henry 
Guillemard,  Mr.  G.  R.  Askwith,  and  the  chairman, 
Frederick  Young,  Esq.,  took  part.  Dr.  GlanviUe  had 
been  a member  of  Sir  Peter  Scratchley’s  staff,  and  had 
accompanied  him  on  his  visit  of  inspection  in  the  latter 
half  of  1885.  In  his  speech  he  bore  testimony  to  the 
unique  influence  of  Chalmers  over  the  natives  ; and  also 
to  the  civilizing  influence  of  missionary  work.  ‘ What- 
ever work  has  been  accomplished  on  the  expedition 
could  never  have  been  done  without  his  valuable  help. 
His  profound  knowledge  of  the  native  character,  his 
wide  experience,  and  his  great  tact,  placed  us  on  a 
footing  with  the  natives  that  otherwise  would  have  been 
impossible.  He  taught  us  how  to  understand  the 
natives,  and  their  little  peculiarities  and  ways,  and  he 
taught  them  to  understand  the  members  of  the  expedi- 
tion, and  what  were  the  motives  that  prompted  us  to 
visit  them.’ 

Captain  Henderson  bore  like  testimony.  He  was 


282 


First  Visit  Home,  1886 

commander  of  the  Nelson  under  Commodore  Erskine 
in  the  proclamation  of  the  Protectorate.  ‘ The  name 
Tamate  is  talismanic,  and  g-ives  one  a safe  conduct  where 
but  a few  years  ago  it  was  unsafe  for  a white  man  to 
venture.  Messrs.  Lawes  and  Chalmers  are  supreme 
along  the  eastern  half  of  the  southern  shore  of  New 
Guinea.  Mhthout  their  aid  everj"  stranger  going  there 
is  helpless ; he  cannot  communicate  with  the  natives, 
and  without  their  authority  the  natives  will  do  nothing. 
By  Mr.  Chalmers  chiefs  were  brought  together  on  the 
quarter-deck  of  the  Nelson  who  had  never  before  met 
save  to  fight,  and  often  the  proclamation  had  to  be 
translated  through  two  and  even  three  languages  before 
it  could  be  explained  to  them.’  Lieut. -General  Lowr)', 
whose  son  had  ser\'ed  on  the  Nelson  at  that  time,  also 
stated:  T have  a vivid  recollection  of  my  son’s  statement 
of  the  loving  way  in  which  Mr.  Chalmers  and  Mr,  Lawes 
ever  referred  to  the  natives,  and  of  the  effect  of  such 
converse  on  the  men  of  the  ships  of  war.  Who  can 
measure  the  amount  of  good  to  the  inhabitants  of  such 
an  island  of  having  ci\’ilization,  Christianity,  and  English 
character  planted  and  exemplified  by  such  men  ’ 

The  paper  to  the  Members  of  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society  was  read  on  the  evening  of  January  17,  1887, 
and  gave  a sketch  of  his  exploration  and  travels  in  New 
Guinea  from  1878  to  1885,  with  many  details  of  the 
voyage  on  the  lakatoi,  Kevaubada,  described  in  chapter  vi, 
and  his  first  visit  to  the  cannibals  of  Namau  In  the  dis- 
cussion that  ensued.  Captain  Henderson,  R.N.,  Mr.  G.  R. 
Askwith,  one  of  Sir  Peter  Scratchley’s  staff,  R.  N.  Cust, 
Captain  Wharton,  Hydrographer  to  the  Admiralty,  and 
other  speakers  bore  testimony  to  the  invaluable  benefits 

’ See  Proceedings  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  voL  ix, 
New  Series,  pp.  71-86. 


Testimony  to  Tamate^s  Influence  283 

of  missionary  work  in  New  Guinea,  and  to  the  extra- 
ordinary personal  influence  of  Chalmers.  Mr,  Askwith 
said : ‘ Mr.  Chalmers  had  mighty  influence  with  the 
natives,  whether  as  arbitrator,  or  friend,  or  religious 
teacher,  or  sorcerer,  or  as  all  of  these,  and  it  might  be 
that  he  had  taught  some  to  believe  in  one  Supreme 
Being  whose  influence  was  for  good,  rather  than  in 
a host  of  devils  and  ghosts  of  the  dead  by  whom  they 
were  wont  to  believe  that  they  were  oppressed.’  Captain 
Wharton  stated  that  when  Captain  Duru  Stanley  made 
the  first  survey  of  south  New  Guinea  in  the  Rattlesnake 
he  met  with  great  difficulties  everywhere  because  of  the 
hostility  of  the  natives.  There  were  now  two  surveying 
vessels  in  New  Guinea,  and  their  labours  had  been 
very  much  lightened  by  the  missionaries.  He  was  glad  to 
have  this  opportunity  of  thanking  Mr.  Chalmers  for  the 
great  assistance  he  had  been  to  those  vessels.  He  had 
just  received  a letter  from  the  commander  of  one  of  those 
ships  who  owed  his  life  indirectly  to  the  missionaries.’ 

One  of  the  most  interesting  incidents  during  his  stay 
in  Britain  was  the  recognition  by  the  home  of  his 
boyhood  of  the  work  he  had  done  and  the  position  he 
had  achieved.  He  was  welcomed  to  Inveraray  not  only 
by  those  who  remembered  him  as  a lad  and  a young 
man,  but  also  by  the  Duke  of  Argyll  as  the  head  and 
representative  of  the  whole  community.  On  the  evening 
of  Sunday,  June  5,  1887,  Chalmers  gave  a stirring 
address  in  the  Castle  Pavilion,  the  use  of  which  was 
cheerfully  granted  by  the  Duke  of  Argyll. 

‘ The  large  and  spacious  pavilion  was  crowded,  as 
many  as  800  persons,  including  the  Marquis  of  Lome, 
from  the  town  and  district  being  present.  The  address 
was  chiefly  confined  to  exploration  and  mission  work  in 
New  Guinea — the  speaker  being  unable  for  want  of  time 


284  First  Visit  Home,  1886 

to  refer  to  his  work  in  Rarotonga— the  character  and 
habits,  the  influencing  power  of  the  Gospel  on  the 
natives,  many  of  the  tribes  being  cannibals,  and  the 
suffering  and  danger  to  which  he  had  been  frequently 
exposed.  At  the  close  of  his  address,  which  was 
listened  to  with  rapt  attention,  he  in  feeling  terms 
referred  to  the  few  boon  companions  of  his  youth  then 
present,  for  whom  he  cherished  the  liveliest  affection; 
as  well  as  for  aged  fathers  and  mothers  also  present, 
from  whom  he  had  received  the  greatest  kindness  in  his 
tender  years ; but  as  long  as  he  lived  he  would  feel 
grateful  to  his  old  teacher,  Mr.  John  Macarthur,  school- 
master, Glenaray,  and  to  his  beloved  pastor,  the  Rev. 
Gilbert  Meikle,  of  the  United  Presbyterian  Church,  from 
whom  he  had  always  received  special  sympathy  and 
kindness.  He  thanked  all  present  for  their  countenance 
and  kind  feeling  towards  him. 

‘ On  Monday  last,  before  leaving  Inveraray,  at  the 
request  of  the  Duke  of  Argyfll,  who  speaks  of  him  as 
being  a credit  to  his  country,  Mr.  Chalmers  planted 
a memorial  tree  in  the  Castle  Park,  near  to  one 
planted  by  Dr.  Livingstone,  the  celebrated  African 
explorer.’ 

Chalmers  sailed  from  Plymouth  on  his  return  to  New 
Guinea,  in  the  steamship  Orient,  on  June  15,  1887.  He 
was,  of  course,  entirely  at  home  on  board  ship,  and 
never  more  himself  than  when  the  sea  was  rough  and 
the  vessel  lively.  He  sent  home,  for  the  amusement  of 
friends,  a diary  of  the  voyage,  which  he  wrote  up  from 
day  to  day.  He  had  no  idea,  of  course,  that  it  would 
ever  be  published,  but  it  is  full  of  touches  which  reveal 
his  lovable  nature,  his  keen  interest  in  life,  his  deep 
affection  for  children,  and  his  readiness  to  pass  from  a 
frolic  to  a religious  service,  from  a tug  of  war  to  a talk 


THE  TREE  PLANTED  IN  THE  GROUNDS  OP  INVERARAY  CASTLE 
BY  JAMES  CHALMERS  ON  JUNE  6,  1887. 

(the  standing  figube  is  the  bev.  gilbebt  meikle.) 


On  the  Return  Voyage  285 

on  the  deep  things  of  life.  In  this  easy  way  we  can 
make  the  voyage  with  him. 

‘ Sunday,  Jul)'-  10.  I slept  on  deck  last  night  and 
enjoyed  it  much— simply  and  solely  slept.  I am  now 
a masher  in  whites.  Though  hot,  we  had  an  interesting 
ser\'ice — the  captain  read  prayers  admirably  ; the  purser 
read  lessons,  fatigued ; I preached,  and  enjoyed  it. 
I felt  homely  on  the  first  paragraph  of  John  xxi.  I do 
love  Christ ; He  is  simply,  solely  everything.  You 
know,  people  speak  about  a religious  life,  and  they 
mean  going  to  church  and  prayer  meetings.  That  is 
not  it,  surely.  I feel  it,  and  believe  it.  Christ  every- 
where, in  all  things.  Means  are  good,  but  they  are  only 
bulrushes.  It  must  be  Christ  all  round,  Alpha  and 
Omega,  end,  between  and  beginning. 

‘July  12.  Last  night  I was  chairman  at  a concert 
with  the  seconds.  To  save  nonsensical  speaking  in 
thankings  I did  it  all  myself,  even  proposing  and 
seconding  a vote  of  thanks  to  the  chairman,  and  said 
nice  pat  things  about  him  that  were  highly  amusing 
to  the  audience. 

‘July  15.  Last  night  I went  aft  to  comfort  the  two 
parsons.  They  have  also  been  very  ill.  I got  them 
some  sea  medicine,  got  the  Scotch  parson  and  his  wife 
on  deck  with  the  priest  and  others,  all  seedy.  I told 
them  personal  sea  yarns  for  over  an  hour,  and  they  all 
forgot  they  were  sick.  The  priest  thinks — well,  I won’t 
say  what,  of  me.  He  would  like,  I have  no  doubt,  to 
see  me  a priest.  I fancy  he  thinks  I may  get  in  at  the 
last  by  some  door.  He  looked  aghast  at  my  sea  yarns 
— shipwrecks  ; careenings  ; upsets  ; waterless  ; foodless — 
a queer  life,  but  I am  glad  of  it.  My  father  used  to  say, 
“Eh,  laddie,  ye’re  surely  no  born  to  be  hung,  for  I'm 
sure  ye’  U nae  be  drowned.” 


286 


First  Visit  Home,  1886 

‘July  1 8,  This  morning- we  have  had  a fine  time.  All 
the  children  in  the  seconds  thought  a wedding  would  be 
a nice  game,  so  I -n-as  to  be  married  to  a fine  bright-eyed 
Irish  lassie,  and  then  we  were  to  go  shopping.  Our 
barber  keeps  a sweet-shop.  We  assembled,  but  the 
diflSculty  was  with  the  bride.  All  wanted  that  honour, 
even  to  the  boys.  We  thought  it  best  to  do  the  shop- 
ping, and  to  the  great  amusement  of  the  ship’s  company 
a\\ay  we  trooped  from  the  quarter-deck  to  the  main 
deck,  then  down  companion,  filling  the  shop  to  over- 
flowing. We  seized  the  sweets,  and  then  took  possession 
of  a large  saloon  table  and  made  equal  divisions.  That 
finished,  I have  been  tt-ith  them  an  hour  telling  them 
stories. 

‘July  21.  Last  night  we  were  to  have  had  a concert, 
but  the  weather  became  too  rough ; so  I spoke  for  an 
hour  to  an  interested  company  on  New  Guinea.  To-day 
they  want  more. 

‘July  23.  I was  having  a nap  this  afternoon  when 
Powell  came  and  roused  me,  saying  the  seconds  had 
challeno;ed  us  to  a tuof  of  war.  Four  of  us  were  soon 

o o 

aft  accepting  the  challenge.  They  selected  their  best 
four,  and  we  set  to ; but  they  had  no  chance.  I was 
anchor.  They  protest  against  me.  I hear  there  is 
another  challenge. 

‘July  24.  "W’e  have  had  a splendid  service;  saloon 
full,  Christians,  Protestants,  Roman  Catholics,  Greek 
Church  and  Jews,  all  present.  I pleaded  for  the  widows 
and  orphans  of  seamen.  Christ  initiated  the  work  of 
helping  the  widow ; we  carry  on  His  work,  and  ever}* 
Christian  must  say,  “ Do  not  weep,"  help  the  widow  in 
ever}*  way  possible,  and  that  is  His  “ Arise.”  Many 
wept,  I trust  honest  tears  of  sympath}*.  I spoke  straight 
to  young  men.  I hope  the  fund  for  assisting  widows 


On  the  Return  Voyage  287 

and  orphans  of  seamen  has  benefitted,  I hope  also  some 
have  realized  Christ  as  the  Life,  their  Life,  and  all  have 
decided  to  live  more  for  Him. 

‘July  25.  We  are  to  have  sports  this  afternoon. 
They  nearly  fell  through,  so  a meeting  was  called ; 
I took  the  chair,  finished  the  whole  business  in  five 
minutes,  and  appointed  a committee  on  which  I am. 
Arrangements  are  completed,  and  so  at  2.30  we  are  all 
boys  and  girls  again.  Jolly ! 

‘July  26.  The  sports  passed  off  well.  Young  Mr. 
Meikle  did  splendidly,  he  is  quite  an  athlete.  The  tug 
of  war  is  the  constant  cry.  England  and  Scotland  ; the 
latter  beaten.  Three  of  England,  three  of  Scotland  ; 
the  former  beaten.  Now  there  is  to  be  another  struggle 
between  five  officers,  and  more  sports  this  afternoon. 

‘ The  meeting  with  the  thirds  last  night  was  a grand 
success.  I spoke  for  over  an  hour  on  the  main  deck, 
and  got  three  rattling  cheers  for  thanks. 

‘July  27.  A poor  Irishman  with  his  wife  on  board, 
after  they  had  paid  for  their  kit,  pan,  tins,  bed,  had  one 
sixpence  left.  The  Roman  Catholic  priest  brought  it 
before  the  seconds,  and  they  made  a subscription. 
I heard  of  it,  and  got  the  priest  to  give  me  the  list,  and 
in  a short  time  returned  it  with  £2,  2s.  6d.  The  father 
could  not  express  his  thanks,  he  was  so  overcome.  We 
left  him  to  do  the  best  for  the  poor  couple. 

‘ The  officers  beat  us  firsts  ; but  in  an  open  for  seven 
passengers  against  seven  ship  we  had  two  deadly  pulls, 
and  on  each  we  won.  I am  sore,  ache  all  over. 
Must  have  a pull  to-morrow  to  put  me  right.  Every- 
body seems  pleased  and  the  whole  has  passed  off  well. 

‘July  29.  It  is  simply  holding  on  by  the  skin  of  your 
teeth.  Rough  and  cold.  We  are  nearing  the  Australian 
Bight. 


288 


First  Visit  Home,  1886 

‘July  30.  Boxes,  bags,  boats,  all  walking,  and  will 
not  keep  still.  Last  night  I turned  in  early  to  find 
a comfortable  place,  but  the  wretched  ship  would  roll, 
and  make  all  attempts  at  sleep  futile.  It  is  laughable 
to  hear  the  varied  experiences  of  the  passengers. 

‘ Aug.  I.  We  had  a crowded  saloon  last  night,  several 
standing  outside  of  doors.  I spoke  for  an  hour  and  a half, 
and  felt  tired.  I think  all  were  interested ; at  all  events 
when  I finished  they  sat  looking  as  if  they  wanted  more. 
I have  consented  to  speak  to-night,  and  so  wind  up  my 
public  appearances  on  board  S.S.  Orient.  We  leave 
results  in  the  Master’s  own  hand.  Eh,  lassie,  but  this 
is  a thorough  Australian  winter  day.  A clear  beautiful 
sky,  a fine  bright  sun,  and  a strong  WNW.  wind,  and 
we  are  dropping  aside  the  miles  at  the  rate  of  fifteen 
an  hour.  ’Tis  charming,  exhilarating — haven’t  the 
dictionary,  so  will  stop  adjectives.  'W'^e  had  the  thirds’ 
bairns  reciting  this  morning.  They  did  well  and  were 
charmed  with  their  prizes.’ 

Chalmers  landed  at  Adelaide  on  August  3,  1887,  and 
was  at  once  greeted  with  enthusiastic  welcome  by  many 
personal  friends,  and  during  his  brief  stay  in  the  colonies 
was  quite  the  great  public  man. 

‘Adelaide,  Attgust  4,  1887. 

‘ Got  here  yesterday  morning.  The  night  before  we 
had  a fine  snow  fight  in  the  refrigerator,  where  I tore  my 
cut-away  coat,  and  had  to  get  it  mended.  Then  we  all 
met  in  the  second  saloon,  and  sang,  “ Auld  Lang  Syne,” 
after  which  1 was  told  to  sit  down,  and  an  address  was 
presented  to  me  signed  by  all  the  leading  passengers. 
After  landing  it  was  soon  noised  that  I was  in  town. 
I had  a pressing  invitation  from  the  Governor  of 
Melbourne,  or  rather,  Victoria,  to  luncheon  to-day  or 
to-morrow  and  a free  pass  for  the  railways.  I cannot 


Arrival  at  Adelaide 


289 

get  away  till  next  Thursday.  Last  night  I spoke  at 
a meeting  in  North  Adelaide.  To-night  I was  a listener 
at  a lecture.  To-morrow  night  a conversazione  in  the 
Exhibition.  To-day  an  invitation  to  dinner  from  the 
Chief  Justice.  On  my  arrival  yesterday  I was  inter- 
viewed, and  the  result  appeared  in  to-day’s  paper.  I 
am  staying  with  my  good  friends  the  Searles.  People 
are  all  very  kind.  On  Sunday  I have  three  services,  on 
Tuesday  two,  on  Wednesday  two.  It  is  not  all  play.’ 

Chalmers  was  heartily  welcomed  back  to  Australia 
at  a public  breakfast  in  the  Victoria  Hall,  Adelaide,  at 
which  the  Rev.  Samuel  Hebditch,  the  Chairman  of  the 
Congregational  Union,  presided.  The  meeting  was 
attended  by  representatives  of  all  the  churches.  In 
addition  to  sermons  and  speeches  Chalmers  also  gave 
a lecture  before  the  South  Australian  Geographical 
Society  on  Explorations  in  New  Guinea. 

From  Adelaide  he  went  on  to  Melbourne. 

‘Melbourne,  August  16,  1887. 

‘We  left  Adelaide  3.30  p.m.  and  arrived  here  at 
9.50  a.m.  I was  met  at  the  station  by  representatives 
of  the  Press,  the  Geographical  Society,  and  clergy. 
I am  staying  with  Mr.  King,  our  agent,  being  quieter 
with  him  than  in  any  of  the  big  houses  to  which  I was 
invited.  I preached  twice  on  Sunday,  and  last  night 
I was  received  by  the  Geographical  Society. 

‘ To-night  I am  to  dine  at  Government  House ; 
to-morrow  I go  to  Queenscliffe ; Thursday  I am  at 
Harthorne ; Friday  with  Dr.  Bevan.  Sunday  I preach 
twice,  and  on  Monday  there  is  a public  meeting,  and 
on  Tuesday  I am  off  to  Sydney. 

‘ There  has  been  a young  fellow  exploring  in 
country  near  to  Namau,  and  he  has  renamed  many 

T 


2go 


First  Visit  Home,  1886 

of  my  places.  It  will  be  all  right,  seeing  mine  are 
charted,  even  in  Germany.’ 

At  the  reception  of  the  Geographical  Society  Baron 
Von  Mueller  presided,  and  in  his  address  of  welcome 
said : — 

‘ Mr.  Chalmers  has  spurned  all  worldly  gain,  and  has 
brought  his  extraordinary  talents  and  gifts  to  bear  in 
developing  the  history  of  New  Guinea,  and  such  is  the 
position  he  occupies  that  we  feel  honoured  to  welcome 
him.  The  council  is  glad  to  meet  Mr.  Chalmers, 
because  it  is  anxious  to  be  advised  as  to  his  proposals 
for  future  research,  for  he  is  one  of  those  divines  who, 
while  devoting  his  life  to  the  cause  of  Christianity,  still 
has  done  a great  deal  in  aiding  the  knowledge  of 
geography.  The  council  hope  that  it  will  fall  to  Mr. 
Chalmers’  share  to  scale  the  steep  and  lofty  heights  of 
the  Owen  Stanley  range.’ 

In  his  speech  acknowledging  the  compliment,  Chalmers 
stated  clearly  his  position  with  regard  to  exploration. 
He  said : — 

‘The  Society  has  on  three  occasions  done  me  great 
honour : first,  when  three  years  ago  I was  asked  to  take 
command  of  an  expedition,  which  I declined,  for  Captain 
Everill ; secondly,  when  the  offer  came  again,  and  when 
Mr.  Lawes,  my  colleague,  was  in  Australia,  and  I was 
unable  to  leave  the  mission ; and  thirdly,  for  this  last 
favour.  I was  in  England  at  the  time,  and  when  I found 
that  arrangements  could  not  be  made  with  Mr.  Forbes, 
and  Sir  Henry  Barkly  came  to  me  stating  what  the 
Society  wanted,  I was  very  glad  to  undertake  it,  and 
more  pleased  later  on  when  I heard  that  Mr.  Cuthbertson 
had  been  dispatched  to  precede  me.  My  advice  is  to 
leave  him  entirely  unfettered.  Seeing  that  he  is  now 


Chalmers^  Geographical  Work  291 

at  his  work,  I think  it  would  not  be  just  if  I disclosed 
to  you  my  own  plans,  as  they  might  hamper  him  in  his 
intention.  As  soon  as  I return  to  New  Guinea  I shall 
write  to  the  Society,  and  explain  my  arrangements,  but 
at  present  I think  it  only  right  that  Cuthbertson  should 
have  a fair  field,  and  if  he  be  willing  I shall  assist 
him  so  far  as  I am  able.  When  his  present  task  is 
completed,  I would  recommend  that  he  be  returned  to 
make  further  investigations  into  the  interior.  With 
regard  to  myself,  I shall  continue  my  mission  work 
while  I am  carrying  on  the  exploratory  tour.  That 
I cannot  give  up.  In  the  past  nine  years  my  exploration 
has  been  entirely  associated  with  the  mission,  and  I can 
only  say  that  the  success  I have  met  with  is  due  to  the 
fact  that  I was  a missionary.’ 

It  was  at  this  time  Chalmers  hoped  and  intended  to 
get  further  inland  in  New  Guinea  than  any  white  man 
had  hitherto  gone,  and  also  to  be  the  first  European  to 
stand  upon  the  summit  of  Mount  Owen  Stanley.  Had 
he  chosen  to  accept  the  flattering  offers  made  to  him 
while  in  the  colonies,  had  he  been  willing  to  subordinate 
the  missionary  to  the  explorer,  he  could  and  would 
undoubtedly  have  gratified  this  ambition.  But  he  chose 
the  path  of  duty  in  preference  to  that  of  inclination,  and 
his  feet  never  trod  the  summit  of  New  Guinea’s  great 
mountain. 

During  his  stay  in  Melbourne  there  was  also  a great 
public  meeting,  at  which  both  Sir  Henry  and  Lady  Loch 
were  present.  Missionaries  in  general,  and  Chalmers  in 
particular,  have  reason  to  be  grateful  for  the  countenance 
given  to  them,  and  the  help  afforded,  by  those  in  high 
oflScial  position  in  Australia.  And  while  there,  as  else- 
where, masses  of  the  people  are  indifferent  or  hostile  to 
missions,  yet  large  numbers  of  the  Australian  people 


292 


First  Visit  Home,  1886 


have  been  heart}’  and  liberal  in  their  support  of  missions, 
and  enthusiastic  in  their  reception  of  such  men  as 
Chalmers  and  Lawes. 

From  Melbourne  Chalmers  passed  to  Sydney  on  his 
return  to  work. 

‘ Sydney,  August  31,  1887. 

‘ We  had  a splendid  meeting  in  ^Melbourne,  and  Sir 
Henr}'  and  Lady  Loch  were  dehghted.  The  Geo- 
graphical Societ}'  steer  clear  of  me  because  I will  not 
teU  them  my  plans.  There  are  many  expeditions  out. 
One  now  here  has  been  on  old  ground  of  mine,  and 
renamed  many  of  the  places  first  discovered  by  me. 
Still,  they  have  made  good  discoveries.’ 

In  another  letter  of  the  same  date  Chalmers  draws  an 
amusing  picture  of  the  awkward  corner  in  which  a man 
sometimes  finds  himself  when  he  is  unwilling  to  give  to 
others  the  full  credit  which  they  desen’e  for  work  done 
honestly  and  weU. 

‘ Sydney,  August  31,  1887. 

‘ I have  steered  clear  of  all  the  Geographical  Societies. 
Thev  have  been  dubbing  me  in  all  the  colonies,  and  are 

•>0  ' 

extremely  anxious  to  know  what  I am  going  to  do,  and 
anxious  to  assist  me,  secure  me,  do  anything  for  me. 
But  I have  kept  my  counsel,  and  mean  to  carr}*  on  as 
I have  formerly  done.  The  Directors  have  always  treated 
me  well,  and  I feel  sure  they  will  see  me  through  in  my 
next  trips. 

M'e  have  four  teachers  and  their  wives  here.  I do  wish 
I could  take  them  in  to  Glenhurst,  that  you  might  hear 
them  sing.  Yesterda}’  I took  them  to  Rcokwood,  where 
Mrs.  Chalmers  rests,  and  they  were  much  moved  with 
past  memories.  Eh,  it  was  a living  past  in  a dead 
present.’ 


Chalmers  at  Sydney  293 

‘ COOKTOWN,  Septeniher  17,  1887. 

‘ The  Sydney  branch  of  the  Geographical  Society 
wired  me  yesterday  to  know  if  I really  did  state  in 
Melbourne  that  nearly  seven  years  ago  I had  named 

much  that  Mr.  has  now  named,  or  was  it  a 

mistake  of  the  newspaper.  I wired  back,  “ Quite 
correct,”  and  then  referred  them  to  authorities.  I wrote 
by  this  morning’s  mail,  saying,  that  if  Sydney  geo- 
graphers were  so  far  behind  the  times,  I did  not  think 
it  my  place  to  right  them,  and  saying  I was  astonished 
they  should  leave  inquiry  until  after  I had  left,  seeing  I 
made  the  utterance  in  public.’ 

In  this  connexion  we  may  quote  the  testimony  of 
one  supremely  competent  witness.  Sir  W.  Macgregor 
states  ’ , ‘ The  principal  addition  that  should  be  made  to 
Sir  Clements  Markham’s  paper  is  the  discovery — really 
a very  important  one — of  the  mouths  of  the  Purari 
river  by  the  Rev.  James  Chalmers  in  1879,  and  his 
subsequent  visit  to  that  place  in  1883.  Mr.  Chalmers 
makes  no  pretence  to  having  ascended  the  river,  or 
even  to  an  examination  of  the  delta;  but  a reference 
to  his  books,  Work  and  Adventure  in  New  Guinea 
(1885)  and  Pioneering  in  New  Guinea  (1887),  will 
clearly  establish  his  claim  to  be  the  discoverer  of  the 
Purari  outlets.’ 

Towards  the  end  of  September  Chalmers  was  back 
again  in  New  Guinea.  The  ‘ bronzed  savage  ’ had 
sojourned  in  the  dwellings  of  civilization  far  longer 
than  he  had  deemed  possible  when,  sixteen  months 
before,  he  had  sailed  away  from  his  field  of  work.  He 
had  in  several  senses  discovered  himself  He  had 
found  that  the  deputation  work  he  had  so  feared  had 

' British  New  Guinea,  p.  4,  edition  of  1899  (John  Murray). 


294 


First  Visit  Home,  1886 

become  in  his  hand  a mighty  power  for  good ; he 
had  left  behind  hundreds  of  friends  who  were  thinking 
of  him,  and  praying  for  the  work  of  himself  and  his 
fellow  workers.  It  was  to  a wider  horizon,  a larger 
outlook,  and  yet  to  the  same  work,  that  he  came  back 
with  renewed  energy,  zeal,  and  faith. 

‘ Port  Moresby,  September  22,  1887. 

‘ We  had  a good  passage  across,  made  comfortable 
by  our  good  captain.  The  excitement  on  landing  was 
great;  one  dear  old  lady  through  excitement  cast  her 
arms  around  me  and  rubbed,  to  her  with  great  satis- 
faction, my  fece  all  over.  It  was  a grand  ovation,  to  be 
written  on  more  fuUy  hereafter.  We  had  to  pay  our 
respects  to  the  admiral  this  morning,  and  dine  with  him 
to-night.  ]\Ir.  and  Mrs.  Lawes  are  as  good  as  ever,  and 
did  give  me  a good  welcome  back  again.  I paid  my 
respects  to  the  governor  also  this  morning. 

‘ 24th.  I had  a very  enjo3"able  evening  last  night.  To 
the  great  amusement  of  the  admiral,  his  officers  and 
I went  over  old  scenes,  and  he  thinks  he  will  return  and 
have  me  if  possible  to  run  him  round.  On  the  deck 
smoking  I had  a most  appreciative  reception.  Old  hands 
gathered  round,  and  wotild  see  and  hear  Tamate.’ 


CHAPTER  IX 


LIFE  AND  WORK  AT  MOTUMOTU 

For  some  time  after  his  return  to  New  Guinea 
Chalmers  remained  at  Port  Moresby  with  his  old  friends 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lawes.  He  had  returned  more  enthusiastic 
than  ever  in  the  prosecution  of  his  plan  to  extend  the 
mission  westwards  up  into  the  Gulf  of  Papua  and  among 
the  strong  tribes  of  Elema  and  Namau.  The  death  in 
1887  of  the  brave  young  Samoan  teacher  whom  he  had 
stationed  some  years  before  at  Motumotu,  or,  as  it  should 
more  correcdy  be  called,  Toaripi\  was  a great  blow  to 
him  personally,  and  a serious  hindrance  to  the  work. 
Tauraki,  the  teacher  in  question,  was  the  son  of  Elikana, 
a native  of  Rakaanga,  one  of  the  islands  of  the  Penrhyn 
Group.  This  man,  in  a series  of  adventures  among  the 
most  romantic  and  striking  in  the  history  of  the  Pacific, 
was  the  agent  in  introducing  Christianity  into  the  Ellice 
Islands  Tauraki,  his  son,  had  been  educated  at  Malua 
in  Samoa,  sent  to  New  Guinea,  and  duly  stationed  at 
Toaripi.  Chalmers,  in  a letter  dated  September  28, 
1887,  teUs  the  story  of  his  end,  and  in  so  doing  adds 
another  to  the  long  series  of  examples  of  the  self- 

' Toaripi  is  the  native  name,  Motumotu  the  name  given  to  it  by 
the  Port  Moresby  natives. 

* See  my  History  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  vol.  i, 
pp.  422-429. 


2q6  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

sacrificing-  braver)'  of  the  Polynesian  teachers  in  New 
Guinea : — 

‘ Tauraki,  who  was  murdered,  his  wife  and  child  and 
ten  natives,  left  their  homes  one  Sunday  night  about  ten 
o’clock,  and  went  down  some  distance  to  an  island  just 
at  the  mouth  of  a river,  and  slept  there,  so  as  to  be  ready 
for  an  early  start  in  the  morning.  They  wished  to 
ascend  the  river,  and  collect  the  bulb  used  in  makinof  the 
best  arrowroot.  Monday  and  Tuesday  were  spent  in 
collecting  this  bulb.  They  returned  down  the  river  on 
Tuesday  afternoon,  and  when  approaching  a bend  they 
saw  a large  number  of  canoes,  each  with  the  fighting 
wisp  in  front.  They  tried  to  get  back  by  another  route, 
but  that  way  was  also  blocked.  They  then  just  drifted 
down  the  stream,  and  the  canoes  closed  on  them. 
Tauraki’s  wife  beo^ored  him  to  fire  a shot  from  his  fowl- 
ing-piece  or  rifle,  and  thus  to  frighten  the  natives,  but 
he  would  not.  There  was  a contention  amongst  the 
enemy — some  pleading  that  there  should  be  no  fighting, 
others  declaring  that  they  would  murder  the  whole 
party.  Hoping  to  make  friends,  the  wife  distributed 
some  tobacco ; but  soon  the  arrows  began  to  fly. 
Tauraki’s  child  was  wounded  by  an  arrow.  His  wife 
was  also  wounded,  and  two  natives  fell  dead.  She  had 
the  fowling-piece  in  her  hand,  and  fired,  and  the  shot 
scared  those  near.  Tauraki’s  party  had  two  canoes 
lashed  together,  and  some  of  their  natives  sprang  over- 
board and  got  between  the  canoes.  His  wife  with  the 
child  followed,  and  the  husband  stood  up  with  several 
arrows  sticking  in  him,  and  began  firing  his  rifle.  This 
scared  the  enemy,  and  they  all  plunged  into  the  river. 
Those  with  Tauraki  who  were  stiU  alive,  and  his  -n-ife 
and  child,  got  into  the  canoe,  and  paddled  away.  It  was 
then  getting  dark,  and  they  were  a long  way  from  home. 


Heroism  of  Tauraki 


297 


Their  great  want  was  water,  but  they  kept  on,  and  about 
midnight  got  to  the  beach  near  their  own  house.  On 
landing  the  child  expired.  The  teacher  and  wife  were 
helped  up  to  the  house  of  Mr.  Edelfelt,  resident  atToaripi, 
who  with  his  wife  did  everything  possible  for  them.  But 
on  Saturday  morning  Tauraki  died,  the  wife  recovering. 

‘ Five  natives  of  Motumotu  who  had  been  in  Tauraki’s 
canoe  were  dead.  The  attack  was  really  made  in  order 
to  kill  the  natives  with  him.  If  Tauraki  would  have 
consented  to  go  on  board  one  of  the  enemy’s  canoes, 
with  his  wife  and  child,  all  would  have  been  well  for 
them.  But  that  he  nobly  refused  to  do,  saying  that  he 
would  stand  by  his  friends,  and  if  need  be  die  with 
them.  Eh,  ’tis  a sad,  sad  story.  He  was  our  very  best 
teacher,  and  from  him  I hoped  much.  I leave  next 
week  to  begin  again  our  Motumotu  work.’ 

In  a subsequent  letter  of  this  time,  Chalmers  wrote  : — 
‘We  had  another  teacher  and  his  wife  at  Motumotu. 
In  January  of  this  year  the  husband  died  from  fever, 
and  a few  months  later  the  wife  followed.  Yet  there 
is  light  in  the  darkness — lives  given  to  Christ  and  man. 
Following  in  His  footsteps,  they  count  not  their  lives 
dear ; as  He  went  to  Calvary,  knowing  all,  so  do  they, 
trusting  in  Him,  and  following  His  example.  Christ 
shows  us  how  to  Hve,  and  also  how  to  die,  and  there  are 
still  Calvarys  with  their  grand  life  ending. 

‘ We  have  had  a most  enjoyable  time  at  Port  Moresby. 
At  the  meetings  there  were  New  Guineans  from  Milne 
Bay,  South  Cape,  Aroma,  Kerepunu,  Hula,  Boera,  and 
Port  Moresby  ; and  there  were  Tahitians,  Rarotongans, 
English  and  Scotch,  all  united  as  one — one  in  Christ. 
I spoke  in  Motuan,  and  Pearse  in  Tahitian.  Ruatoka 
addressed  those  who  had  not  yet  decided  for  Christ,  and 
pressed  them  to  accept  Him  as  their  life.  The  deacons 


298  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

who  sensed  were  four  New  Guineans.  What  cannot  the 
Gospel  do  when  blessed  of  God  ? ’ 

Here  is  Chalmers’  own  picture  of  his  reception  at 
Motumotu,  drawn  in  a letter  to  the  lady  who  became  his 
wife : — ‘ We  left  Maiva  on  Sunday  evening,  and  got 
a jolly  wetting  going  through  the  surf.  It  is  disagree- 
able to  get  drenched  when  one  has  to  sit  long  in  a boat. 
We  had  to  pull  nearly  all  the  way,  and  did  not  get  off 
Jokea  until  midnight.  A shout  was  given,  and  the 
people  ashore,  recognizing  the  voice  of  Turia,  their 
teacher,  were  soon  astir  with  lights  on  the  beach.  It 
was  a weird  sight,  the  boat  at  sea  outside  a long  line  of 
white  breakers,  and  on  the  beach  a crowd  of  natives  carry- 
ing dry',  burning  cocoa-nut  leaves.  A hard  puU,  a long 
puU,  steady — again  a hard  pull — there  she  goes,  over  and 
through  everything  into  the  hands  of  the  Ravages,  and 
away  she  is  carried  right  on  to  the  dry  beach.  What  ex- 
citement in  meeting  their  teacher ! And  then  there  arose 
a terrific  roar  when  they  found  that  I was  in  the  boat. 
The  poor  old  chief  heard  it  in  his  house,  where  he  has 
been  confined  for  some  time,  and  he  too  must  come  to 
meet  Tamate.  Nothing  would  suit  him  but  rub  noses. 

‘ Yesterday  morning  we  got  out  through  the  surf 
again,  and  had  to  puU  against  the  wind  for  nine  hours 
in  a broiling  sun.  Getting  a slant  of  wind  we  sailed  up 
to  IMotumotu,  but  the  sea  was  breaking  so  fearfully  we 
could  not  land  on  the  beach.  So  we  had  to  sail  away  far 
beyond  the  village,  until  we  got  to  a quiet  entrance  into 
the  river,  where  in  crossing  the  bar  we  shipped  two  seas 
and  got  a drenching.  On  landing  here  just  after  sundown, 
I was  met  by  Mr.  Edelfelt,  the  government  represen- 
tative, and  he  insisted  on  my  going  to  his  house.  His 
wife  was  down  with  a terrible  attack  of  fever.  I am 
sorry'  for  her  and  for  him  too. 


Visit  to  Moveavc 


299 


‘ After  a good  night’s  rest  I went  out  to  visit,  and 
to  look  over  all  the  mission  property.  Eh,  ’tis  sad. 
When  I began  my  journey  home  I left  here  two  teachers 
and  their  wives.  I had  great  thoughts  of  future  work. 
I now  return,  and  all  are  gone.  God  knows  best,  and  He 
does  move  in  mysterious  ways. 

‘ The  people  are  hearty  and  kind.  There  is  enough 
wood  sawn  here  to  make  a large  house,  so  this  may  be 
your  future  home.  There  is  fever  everywhere,  but  it  is 
not  worse  here  than  in  other  places.  After  Tauraki’s 
murder  the  government  sent  an  expedition,  and  five  of 
the  natives  were  shot,  a few  others  wounded,  and  a 
splendid  village  burnt.  I resolved  to  visit  these  people, 
and  to  make  friends  with  them. 

‘ I left  in  a canoe  with  four  natives  from  this  place, 
and  paddled  up  the  river  to  Moveave.  We  smoked 
and  chatted  on  the  way.  The  chatting  was  done  with 
diflSculty  in  pidgin  English.  Of  course  there  was 
danger,  and  I might  be  received  with  suspicion  so  soon 
after  the  punishment.  When  near  the  first  village  we 
came  suddenly  upon  a canoe  with  a husband  and  wife 
and  two  bairns  in  it.  Poor  things,  they  had  a terrible' 
fright.  The  husband  flew  to  his  bow  and  arrows,  and 
the  mother  and  bairns  were  about  to  spring  into  the 
river,  when  we  shouted,  and  assured  them  that  we  were 
friends,  and  that  I was  Tamate.  The  bow  and  arrows 
were  put  down,  and  they  paddled  near  to  us.  Then 
a little  tobacco  helped  to  soothe  them.  The  bairns  were 
crying  piteously,  and  the  husband  and  wife  trembled 
dreadfully.  We  got  them  to  go  on  ahead,  and  to  warn 
the  people  of  our  approach.  We  paddled  on  and  into 
a narrow  creek,  where  if  attacked  it  would  have  been 
impossible  for  us  to  escape.  We  landed  in  the  bush 
some  distance  from  the  village.  One  of  my  party 


300 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


shouted,  and  soon  a large  number  of  armed  natives 
came  rushing  along.  They  were  told  who  I was,  and 
that  they  must  not  approach  armed,  as  I was  quite 
unarmed,  not  having  even  a knife  with  me.  They  put 
away  all  their  arms,  and  came  in  a crowd  to  meet  us. 
They  were  glad,  I believe,  from  the  ver}*  depths  of 
their  hearts  that  I had  come  to  make  friends  with  them. 

‘ ^ly  four  native  friends  who  were  with  me,  having 
arms  with  them,  delivered  them  up,  and  away  we  went 
to  the  village.  They  would  not  let  me  step  in  a damp 
place,  but  insisted  on  carr\’ing  me  over  everj’  little  drop 
of  water.  A few  new  houses  had  been  put  up.  On 
the  way  up  the  river  I cut  up  about  ten  sticks  of  tobacco 
into  very  small  pieces,  which  I gave  to  a chief,  one  of 
my  four,  and  he  distributed  it.  Men,  women,  and 
children  hailed  us  with  delight.  M’e  went  through  the 
bush  to  another  village,  and  had  the  same  kind  of 
reception.  On  our  rettim  to  the  first  village  I found 
a large  shade  erected  for  me.  It  was  made  with  cocoa- 
nut  leaves,  and  underneath  a crowd  sat,  and  we  con- 
versed as  best  we  could  on  the  miser}-  of  war  and  the 
blessings  of  peace.  They  gave  me  presents  of  cocoa-nuts, 
betel  nuts,  and  other  treasures,  and  in  return  I gave 
them  knives,  looking  - glasses,  tobacco,  and  jubilee 
medals.  It  was  a good  time.  We  stayed  only  a short 
while  with  them,  and  then  returned  to  Moveave,  our 
first  village.’ 

After  a brief  stay  at  ^Motumotu  Chalmers  returned  to 
Port  Moresby  to  look  after  his  heav}-  baggage,  which 
had  been  delayed  on  the  voyage. 

‘ M*e  got  here  yesterday  Oct.  20)  from  Motumotu, 
and  set  to  at  once  to  open  cases.  M'hat  pleasure  there 
is  in  opening  boxes!  To-day  I have  been  arranging 
presents  for  students  and  wives,  teachers  and  wives,  and 


Native  Address  on  Jacob  301 

servants  and  friends.  No  easy  matter  when  there  are 
so  many  to  receive  them. 

‘It  is  well  I did  not  start  on  any  long  journey 
at  present.  The  weather  beats  description — thunder- 
storms, heavy  rains,  hot  and  sultry;  not  such  as  needed 
for  long  land  journeys.  My  visit  to  Motumotu  was  well 
timed.  I was  able  to  make  friends  with  the  people  up 
the  river,  and  they  are  now  all  returning  to  their 
villages  with  confidence.  I wish  we  could  place  teachers 
at  both  places.  As  soon  as  the  new  teachers  become 
a little  acclimatized  two  will  be  placed  at  Motumotu, 
and  I think  I shall  put  up  a shanty  for  myself  there  at 
present.  I must  keep  on  the  move  amongst  the  stations, 
and  prepare  for  more  new  teachers  who  come  to  us 
next  year. 

‘To-day  our  captain,  who  is  a bit  of  an  electrician, 
has  been  busy  with  the  telephone  which  has  come 
all  right,  except  the  carbons,  which  are  all  broken.  It  is 
fairly  successful.  The  natives  are  astonished,  and  fright- 
ened. A boy  who  has  been  to  Sydney  says,  “ I now 
can  understand  those  wires  overhead.” 

‘ At  our  morning  service  one  of  the  speakers  gave  an 
account  in  thorough  native  fashion  of  Jacob’s  deceiving 
his  father.  I felt  intensely  interested  when  he  spoke 
of  the  wild  hunter  chasing  the  kangaroo,  while  the 
sneaking  brother  was  at  home  with  the  ambitious 
mother  quietly  killing  and  cooking  a kid.  I don’t  like 
Jacob.  He  would  have  been  a prominent,  mean,  calcu- 
lating Christian  under  Christianity,  for  ever  trying  to 
get  to  the  windward  of  every  one  else. 

‘ Sunday  night.  This  morning  I took  an  English 
service,  and  spoke  from  Esther  vii.  5 and  6 ; and  in  the 

^ This  was  a telephone,  long  enough  to  connect  with  a distant 
house,  which  a friend  in  England  had  presented  to  Chalmers. 


302 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


afternoon  a native  semce,  and  spoke  from  Mark  vii.  37. 
I find  my  native  somewhat  heavy,  but  wfith  use  it  will 
come  all  right. 

‘ Oct.  28.  To-day  a party  was  formed  : Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Lawes,  Captain  Hennessy,  H.M.  Special  Com- 
missioner, Mr.  Douglas,  and  his  Private  Secretary,  and 
this  youth.  We  went  to  \’’alrikori,  a village  four  miles 
from  here,  and  in  charge  of  a native  teacher  born  and 
bred  in  the  land,  and  educated  at  the  college  here.  He 
had  a catechumen  class  of  six  men  and  three  women 
which  !Misi  and  I examined,  and  were  pleased  with. 
\Ye  then  called  a meeting  of  all  the  people,  and  in  their 
presence  baptized  the  nine,  and  thus  formed  the  Church 
of  Christ  there.  It  was  a most  interesting  occasion. 
God  is  blessing  His  work,  and  the  light  is  being  sown 
in  the  darkness,  and  Christ  is  being  loved  by  the  once 
savage.  The  picnic  was  also  a success,  and  on  our 
return  all  felt  that  a profitable  and  pleasant  day  had 
been  spent.’ 

After  unpacking  his  goods  Chalmers  was  soon  back 
at  Motumotu,  and  in  the  EUengowan  visited  V ailala  and 
Orokolo.  Later  on  several  new  teachers  were  selected 
for  the  Gulf  stations,  and  placed  there  by  Ruatoka  in 
accordance  'ufith  the  wishes  of  Chalmers.  But  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Lawes  being  absent  on  a furlough  in  the  colonies, 
Chalmers  had  to  take  charge  of  the  college  and  routine 
work  at  Port  ^loresby.  Here  he  lived  and  worked  until 
his  second  marriage  in  October,  1888. 

From  this  period  onward  there  is  in  existence 
a large  mass  of  Chalmers’  private  correspondence. 
Hardly  any  of  this  has  ever  before  appeared  in  print. 
It  covers  in  detail  from  week  to  week,  and  almost 
from  day  to  day,  his  actions,  his  plans  and  his  thoughts. 
Moreover,  in  these  letters  the  real  man  appears,  and  very 


Tamate^s  Private  Correspondence  303 

frequently  he  unveils  his  innermost  purpose  and  his 
deepest  desires.  The  letters  were  written  for  the  most 
part  without  any  belief  or  desire  that  they  would  ever 
come  under  any  eyes  but  those  of  the  correspondent. 
It  has  been  a great  privilege,  and  also  a great  trust,  for 
the  author  to  have  had  such  full  and  unrestricted 
access  to  a correspondence  which  constantly  opens  the 
door  into  the  very  heart-life  of  both  the  writer  and  the 
recipients  of  these  letters.  And  the  closer  they  are 
studied  the  nobler  does  Tamate  appear  in  his  enthu- 
siasm for  work,  in  complete  consecration  to  Christ,  in 
self-denying  labours,  and  in  lofty  ambitions.  It  is  true 
also  that  from  time  to  time  the  letters  prove  him  to  have 
been  very  human,  and  that  he  was  perfect  neither  in  life 
nor  thought  nor  achievement.  But  because  they  exhibit 
a very  lovable  and  strong  personality,  and  at  the  same 
time  do  not  conceal  many  little  human  weaknesses  and 
failings,  they  are  all  the  more  precious.  We  shall  from 
this  point  onwards  largely  ignore  official  and  formal 
documents,  and  allow  the  reader  to  share  the  life  and 
opinions  of  Tamate  as  his  close  friends  and  intimate 
correspondents  shared  them. 

In  a letter  dated  January  4,  1888,  he  outlines  his  life 
at  Port  Moresby  as  soon  as  he  had  once  again  thoroughly 
settled  down  to  New  Guinea  conditions.  Until  August 
he  was  alone  there,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lawes  being  in  Australia. 

‘ I have  to  superintend  certain  duties  every  day.  Now 
some  women  are  washing,  others  are  weeding,  and  a few 
girls  are  sweeping  up.  I have  men  repairing  gates 
and  strengthening  houses,  for  this  north-west  monsoon 
has  no  mercy — others  are  washing  boats.  We  have  our 
week  of  prayer  now.  May  we  be  gready  blessed  and 
others  through  us ! 

‘ 13th.  Last  night  we  had  a grand  row  in  the  village. 


304 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


A few  days  ago  a great  many  natives,  alarmed  at  the 
small  quantity  of  rain  falling,  determined  to  try  a sorcerer 
who  happened  to  come  in,  and  get  him  to  procure  rain 
in  abundance.  The  sorcerer  consented  on  payment,  so 
a collection  was  made  consisting  of  arm  shells,  toma- 
hawks and  sago,  and  two  dogs.  He  went  through  his 
mummeries  and  cleared,  and  no  rain  comino-  the  natives 
who  gave  no  payment  made  fun  of  the  others,  and  last 
night  it  resulted  in  a fight.  Nothing  serious  happened. 

‘ My  plan  with  a row  is  not  to  interfere,  only  laugh 
and  tell  them  to  go  on  with  their  bit  of  fun,  and  this 
they  very  much  dislike.  When  bows  and  arrows  are 
rushed  for,  then  we  separate  the  opposing  parties. 

‘ I am  getting  the  boys  a little  into  shape.  Insist  on 
smart  attendance  immediately  on  bell  ringing,  and  insist 
on  a thing  being  done  on  one  telling.  1 do  like  smart- 
ness in  class  and  everywhere.  A new  teacher  who  did 
not  know  me  except  from  hearsay  thought  he  would 
do  as  he  liked.  I called  him  once,  I knew  he  heard ; he 
took  no  notice.  I called  again,  the  same  result.  His 
bringing  up  was  bad.  He  is  all  right  now,  and  he  knows 
me  better  than  he  did,  and  I know  he  likes  me.  May 
he  long  live  for  Christ’s  work  ! 

‘ Canon  Taylor’s  remarks  will  do  good.  There  is 
something  wrong  in  our  mode  of  working.  We  look 
too  much  for  individual  cases  of  conversion  ; these  are 
chronicled  and  made  much  of.  Do  not  you  think  the 
Gospel  is  for  mankind,  and  that  it  ought  to  influence 
whole  tribes  } We  potter  away  with  one  or  two  converts  ; 
good,  but  strike  for  the  higher — assert  for  the  nation  or 
tribe.  Our  statistic  system  is  all  wrong.  They  will 
keep  the  statistics  in  heaven,  I feel  sure,  and  I would 
leave  them  in  their  hands. 

‘ Have  had  another  very  bad  shaking.  I must  cave 


Extension  Westwards 


305 


in  and  lie  down  a bit.  All  afternoon  I have  been  very- 
ill.  Mueller  wants  me  to  go  over  Cuthbertson’s  ground, 
talce  more  extensive  angles,  and  make  a large  collection 
of  botany.  I cannot  do  it  now.  If  I get  across  to 
other  side,  might  do  it  on  my  return  journey.  I am 
out  of  sorts.  This  morning  I felt  splendid. 

‘17th.  Bad  fever.  Must  close.' 

‘January  31,  1888.  I have  another  application  from 
the  Australian  Geographical  Society,  but  I cannot  at 
present  reply.  Our  real  mission-work  requires  me  for 
the  present.  I begin  new  stations  next  season,  ex- 
tending our  work  fiurther  into  the  Gulf.  When  I speak 
of  West  and  Gulf  I mean  the  district  to  the  west  of  Cape 
Possession.  At  present  Motumotu  is  our  largest  village 
and  most  important  station.  Two  new  teachers  went 
there  at  the  beginning  of  the  year,  and  I must  visit  them 
in  March.  If  you  have  a chart  or  a map,  you  will  see 
Motumotu,  and  beyond  it  Karama  and  Uamai  and 
Kerema,  Vailala  and  Orokolo  ; well,  all  these  I hope  to 
occupy  soon.  If  I can  make  an  exploring  trip  or  two 
between  I shall,  but  my  real  work  must  be  first. 

‘ I have  a Chinese  cook,  but  he  leaves  me  soon. 
When  ill  I had  nothing  to  eat,  not  fancying  anything 
the  natives  could  make  me.  One  day  I staggered  to 
a bookshelf  and  got  down  Mrs.  Beeton,  but,  alas,  she 
was  complicated,  and  I had  to  give  it  up.  Since  my 
Chinese  cook  has  been  here,  loaned  from  young  Lawes, 
I have  been  faring  sumptuously  every  day,  and  feel  as 
strong  as  an  African  Hon.’ 

‘ February  i.  I dearly  love  working  Christians,  and 
like  to  see  all  native  converts  doing  something  for  Him 
whose  they  profess  to  be.  Last  Sunday  was  a high  day 
for  us  at  Tupuselei.  We  began  with  a morning  service, 
when  the  church  was  crowded,  only  four  with  any 

u 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


506 

clothing".  In  the  forenoon  I had  a children’s  sendee, 
and  afterwards  met  twenty-seven  catechumens,  twenty- 
five  men  and  two  women.  I left  them  unbaptized  for 
the  present,  preferring  they  should  still  wait,  and  be 
prepared.  In  the  afternoon  there  was  another  large 
gathering,  when,  after  I had  addressed  them,  I threw  the 
meeting  open  and  invited  any  one  to  speak.  It  was 
a strange  sight  to  see  one  naked  man  after  another  rise, 
give  a short  earnest  address,  sa^dng,  “ Let  us  love  God, 
let  us  listen  to  the  teacher,  let  us  keep  the  Sabbath  and 
remember  Christ  loves  us,”  and  so  on,  and  so  on,  and 
then  sit  down.  But  the  address  of  the  occasion  was  the 
following.  A young  man  got  up  and  said,  “ Friends,  if 
we  do  evil,  Jesus  weeps — is  pained;  if  we  do  well, 
Jesus  is  well  pleased.  I have  finished.”  He  was  naked. 
He  was  intensel\-  in  earnest,  and  his  voice  had  a 
pathos  that  made  one  feel  the  reality  of  his  words. 
I think  that  address  is  unique,  and  would  tell  well  in 
a home  audience.  It  is  short  and  pointed,  and  needs  no 
common  tar}'.  To  hear  a native  in  earnest  prayer  is 
refreshing.  He  praises  Hke  a child,  he  pleads  like  a 
child,  and  you  feel  he  expects  to  get  a blessing.  W'ould 
that  we  were  more  like  this ! 

‘ I am  just  getting  into  the  old  swing  of  classes,  and 
enjoy  it  as  much  as  ever  I did  in  Rarotonga,  only 
I want  a help  for  the  women.  They  all  read  beautifully, 
better  than  their  husbands.  I will  have  a writing  class 
with  them  once  a day,  I wish  I could  teach  them  to 
sew.  All  the  teachers’  wives  have  machines,  and  the 
girls  are  not  taught  sewing. 

‘ It  will  take  some  time  before  my  students  and  chil- 
dren will  get  into  the  way  of  learning  at  home  and 
coming  prepared — they  are  finding  it  hard  work.  They 
must  succeed,  and  will  soon,  if  only  their  patience  is  as 


Tomahawks  by  Telegraph  307 

lengthy  as  mine.  Don’t  laugh,  I am  very  patient  with 
children  and  natives.’ 

When  Chalmers  left  England  in  1887,  through  the 
influence  of  a friend  and  the  courtesy  of  the  officials  of 
the  Eastern  Telegraph  Company,  he  was  allowed  the 
privilege  of  sending  home  free  telegrams.  This  privi- 
lege had  to  be  suspended  because,  it  was  said,  at  the 
time  of  the  Colonial  Exhibition  visitors  who  possessed  it 
abused  it.  But  on  January  20,  1887,  Chalmers  sent 
home  a telegram  which  to  the  uninitiated  certainly 
presented  an  alarming  appearance,  and  finally  crept  into 
the  press,  originating  considerable  innocent  amusement. 
It  ran,  ‘ Had  several  attacks  of  fever.  Now  well. 
Getting  in  trim  for  next  season.  Ask  Jones,  Devon- 
shire Square,  send  one  gross  tomahawks,  one  gross 
butchers’  knives.  Society  pay.  Inform  Dr.  Muirhead 
going  east  try  make  friends  between  tribes.  Chalmers.’ 
It  must  be  admitted  that  this  message  had  a somewhat 
sanguinary  quality  about  it,  and  many  were  the  jokes  in 
the  City  about  Chalmers’  method  of  promoting  friend- 
ship by  means  of  tomahawks  and  butchers’  knives. 
But  as  these  articles  happen  to  be  the  most  serviceable 
currency  in  the  wildest  parts  of  New  Guinea,  the  tele- 
gram was  simply  a request  for  the  replenishment  of  his 
stores  of  barter,  in  anticipation  of  projected  journeys. 
In  a letter  from  Port  Moresby,  dated  May  26,  Chalmers 
acknowledges  the  receipt  of  these  weapons.  ‘ Toma- 
hawks and  knives  were  all  right,  and  already  some  gone 
to  a tribe  on  my  route  inland  to  make  friends  and  peace. 
Capital  way  of  getting  stuff  quick.’ 

‘ May  I.  Since  writing  last  I have  been  on  the  move, 
been  west  and  visited  all  the  stations.  We  had  very 
rough  weather  west,  and  difficult  landings  at  some 
places.  At  Kivori,  near  Cape  Possession,  we  got 


3o8  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

chucked  out  of  the  boat.  There  were  hea%^  seas,  and 
the  boat  swing'ing  on  one  capsized.  At  other  places  we 
got  drenched  and  swamped.  We  had  ser\dces  and 
school  examinations  at  all  the  stations,  and  where  least 
I expected  it  good  progress  has  been  made.  At  Naara, 
where  my  queen  Koloka  is,  there  is  a good  earnest 
work  begun.  Koloka  seeks  baptism,  but  I advised 
waiting.  Several  children  could  read. 

‘ Having  finished  with  the  west  I Hsited  all  the 
stations  to  Hula,  where  the  schooner  overtook  me,  and 
we  proceeded  to  Kerepunu.  Mr.  Pearse  joined  us,  and 
we  continued  oim  voyage  to  the  east,  calling  at  Aroma 
and  Mailiu  (Cloudy  Bay).  At  the  latter  place  my  old 
friend  Gidage  came  off  and  renewed  friendship.  He 
wants  a teacher,  and  promises  to  treat  him  kindly. 
We  were  anxious  to  visit  Toulon,  but  the  wind  was 
unfavourable,  and  we  continued  on  to  here.  Since  then 
we  have  been  to  Teste,  Killerton,  Vagavaga,  Dinner 
Island,  Leocadle,  and  back  here.  At  the  Leocadie 
the  people  were  pleased  we  visited  them.  We  have 
only  an  evangehst  there  as  }"et.  Years  ago  the  natives 
gave  me  for  the  London  Missionar}^  Society  the  large 
island,  Delina,  and  yesterday  confirmed  it  by  reminding 
me  that  the  island  and  all  on  it  was  ours.  It  vdll  make 
a good  head-station,  better  than  any  other  place  we 
have  at  the  east  end.  The  people  some  years  ago 
murdered  a number  of  Chinamen.  New  they  are  really 
friendly,  and  anxious  to  be  taught. 

‘ are  likely  to  have  some  little  trouble  with  the 
government  about  Dinner  Island.  I wait  until  I meet 
Misi  and  Douglas.  At  Vagavaga  it  simply  poured  all 
the  time  of  our  stay,  so  that  we  could  do  nothing.  Two 
Loyalty  Islands  teachers  were  there  a short  time  some 
years  ago ; being  very  unhealthy  they  were  removed. 


309 


Changes  at  Vagavaga 

and  since  then  a Dinner  Island  native  has  occasionally 
visited  them.  We  were  anchored  close  by  the  mission- 
house.  About  four  in  the  afternoon  a deputation  of 
clothed  natives  came  on  board,  saying  they  belonged 
to  the  mission.  Children  sitting  under  a house  for 
shelter  were  singing  hymns.  There  is  a change  seen 
even  in  the  appearance  of  all  the  natives.  They  were 
a wild  cannibal  lot  a few  years  ago.  One  of  the  natives 
who  came  off  spoke  a little  English.  Pearse,  who 
certainly  would  make  a fine  feast,  asked  him  if  they  eat 
man,  and  was  answered,  “ No.  No  eat  man  now,  all 
fellow  missionary  now.”  In  the  evening  at  seven  a bell 
rang,  and  soon  hymn-singing  was  heard ; they  were 
having  evening  prayers.  You  cannot  realize  it.  Savages, 
cannibals,  murderers,  now  seeking  to  worship  God.  It 
was  strangely  pleasing  to  hear  an  old  hymn -tune  in  such 
a place. 

‘ Had  good  time  at  South  Cape  and  visiting  stations. 
I was  refreshed  in  visiting  the  stations  with  New  Guinea 
teachers.  At  Savaia,  tvhere  only  a short  time  ago  there 
were  cannibal  feasts,  there  are  three  catechumens  and 
six  who  can  read  well,  and  all  the  people  friendly.  The 
teacher  is  a Suau  lad,  and  his  wife  from  here.  She  is 
a mite,  good  and  clever,  keeps  a clean  house,  teaches  in 
school  and  has  singing  classes,  holds  more  than  her  own 
with  the  savages. 

‘ At  Navaapou  quiet,  steady,  gentle  Hari  of  Suau 
is  making  headway,  and  the  people  really  love  him. 
He  too  has  three  wishing  baptism,  men  who  already 
take  part  in  services,  and  who  speak  a word  for 
Christ  when  they  can.  I always  like  to  see  all  who 
desire  to  profess  Christ  by  baptism  showing  their  love 
to  Him  by  working  for  Him. 

‘A  New  Guinean,  preaching  last  Wednesday,  said; 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


3io 

“ The  time  has  come  for  us  to  be  up  and  doing. 
Foreigners  have  brought  us  the  Gospel,  many  have  died 
of  fever,  several  have  been  speared  and  tomahawked. 
Xow  let  us  carry  the  Gospel  to  other  districts,  and  if 
we  die  ’tis  well  we  die  in  Christ;  if  we  are  murdered 
’tis  well,  ’tis  in  carrj'ing  His  name  and  love,  and  ’twill  be 
for  Him.  Motu,  let  us  do  it.”  He  knows  only  a little, 
so  ver}'  little ; yet  he  loves,  and  he  is  willing  to  endure 
for  Christ.  I saved  that  lad  a few  years  ago  from  being 
attacked,  perhaps  murdered,  by  his  own  people. 

‘ Did  I tell  you,  at  \’abukori  near  here  there  are 
forty-three  catechumens,  and  at  Tupuselei  fifty-six? 
The  prayer  of  faith  is  being  answered.  The  greatest 
power  of  the  mission -house  is  that  monthly  prayer- 
meetingr.’ 

On  June  4 he  wrote  to  Mr.  Wardlaw  Thompson: 
‘ I am  in  excellent  health,  and  should  like  much  a run 
to  the  mountains,  but  I cannot  manage  it  now ; I must 
keep  at  my  post  on  the  coast.  MTiat  think  you  of 
five  hours’  teaching  daily  for  this  wanderer ! I like  it, 
and  I like  t'other  too.  I have  only  two  sick  folk  on 
hand.  Do  not  trouble  about  me  ; alone  or  with  fi-iends 
I am  perfecdy  happy.  I must  do  that  Gulf  this  year, 
and  get  as  far  as  Vailala  with  new  stations.  The  house 
at  iMotumotu,  a wooden  one,  is  finished.  It  will  be 
a splendid  btmgalow,  built  of  cedar,  and  wiU  cost  the 
Society  about  twenty  pounds  or  less.  My  houses  have 
not  yet  cost  much ; and  I don’t  mean  that  they 
shall.  I want  to  be  at  iMotumotu  as  much  as  possible 
to  watch  over  new  stations.  I must  travel.  I feel  it 
in  my  bones.’ 

‘July  7.  A week  ago  I went  to  Kabadi.  Mr.  Romilly 
hearing  I was  going,  he  having  a party  travelling  inland 
thereabout,  decided  to  go  with  me,  so  the  Government 


Capsized  in  Redscar  Bay  311 

cutter  took  us  to  the  Skittles  (Kekeni),  Redscar  Bay, 
and  there  my  whaleboat  met  us.  About  four  p.  m.  we 
left  the  cutter,  eighteen  all  told  on  board  the  boat. 
Mr.  Romilly  was  against  landing  until  the  morning. 
I was  anxious  to  spend  as  long  a time  as  possible  with 
the  teacher  and  people  and  visit  all  the  villages,  hence 
the  hurry  ashore.  I had  a trusty  native  at  the  oar 
steering.  We  were  very  deeply  laden.  On  nearing 
the  bar  it  did  not  seem  to  me  as  very  dangerous,  so 
we  stood  on.  The  first  bar  sea  sped  us  on,  the  second 
one  caught  us,  we  shipped  water,  the  steer  oar  got 
jammed,  the  boat  swung  and  went  over.  It  was  deep 
and  the  seas  heavy,  and  for  a short  time  it  seemed 
some  of  us  must  go.  It  is  a terrible  place  for  crocodiles, 
but  I suppose  so  many  of  us  frightened  them.  The 
smashing  in  the  surf  was  enough  to  kill.  The  boat’s 
crew  of  native  students  did  nobly.  We  got  ashore. 
I feared  at  one  time  Romilly  was  drowning.  I felt 
somewhat  exhausted  myself.  I fancy  Romilly  must 
have  been  struck  with  an  oar.  The  boys  got  the  boat 
in  after  a good  hour’s  hard  work.  I got  three  times 
on  to  the  boat’s  keel  and  each  time  was  swept  away. 
At  last  got  an  oar,  and  assisted  by  a native  I got  to 
a sandbank — resting  a little,  then  ashore.  A fire  was 
lighted,  around  which  we  all  gathered,  when  one  of 
the  students  engaged  in  prayer,  and  with  full  hearts 
we  all  joined  him  in  thanksgiving.  During  the  night 
things  were  washed  ashore  and  amongst  them  my  swag. 
Intending  to  stay  until  Monday,  Mr.  Romilly  had  two 
guns  and  two  rifles  for  birds  and  crocodiles.  All  were 
lost.  My  loss  was  small,  chiefly  food.  I took  a supply 
for  the  crowd.  To-day  I have  made  good  the  crew’s 
loss.  We  remained  by  the  fire  all  night.  The  teacher 
on  hearing  of  what  happened  brought  us  a change  each. 


312 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


but  being  a small  man  there  were  difficulties.  The 
next  morning  we  pulled  through  the  surf,  and  got  on 
board  the  cutter,  and  ran  to  ^lanumanu,  where  we  spent 
Sunday,  ^^’e  all  felt  sore  and  unfit  for  much  exertion. 
I spent  the  Sunday  ashore  at  the  teacher’s  and  had 
two  ser\'ices. 

‘ Don’t  moralize  on  the  foregoing  and  say,  “Rash  man.” 
Yes,  I am,  and  have  been  blessed  and  successful  in  all 
kinds  of  hazards  for  the  last  eleven  years  in  this  land. 
Xo  use,  will  do  it  again,  and  must,  hoping  to  get 
through  all  right.  I am  exceedingl}'  cautious,  especially 
when  others  are  with  me ; but  there  is  such  a thing  as 
excess  of  caution. 

‘Thank  God  for  bairns’  prayers.  I like  best  the 
prayers  of  the  children.  Eh,  lassie,  wha  kens  when  it 
is  most  needed  ? YTien  in  battle  with  the  sea  lately, 
it  may  be  some  of  you  were  speal^ing  then  for  me. 

‘ I have  to  destroy  aU  my  letters.  Anything  happen- 
ing to  me,  my  spirit  would  grieve  when  seeing  others 
reading  my  correspondence.  A party  might  return 
without  me  some  day— a boat  might  come  back  flag 
half-mast  high,  no  Tamate;  so  I take  precautions.’ 

‘SocTH  Cape,  Augusi  7,  18S8. 

‘ I accompanied  H.M.S.  Opal  to  Kerepunu,  and  there 
got  three  of  the  Kalo  bigtvigs  to  come  on  board. 
The}'  were  terribly  frightened,  but  being  told  I was 
waiting  their  arrival  they  got  into  the  boat.  On  getting 
on  board  they  were  quite  unable  to  hide  their  fear. 
The  captain  had  them  in  his  cabin,  spoke  kindly  to 
them,  shook  hands  with  them,  and  they  told  him  never 
to  fear  they  would  again  do  any  foreigner  an  injuiy. 
He  gave  them  each  a present,  and  in  return  they  gave 
him  their  marked  Hme  calabashes  as  tokens  of  peace 


313 


First  Trip  in  the  Harrier 

and  friendship,  I got  them  down  into  the  stokehole, 
and  on  one  of  the  furnaces  being  opened  they  thought 
their  end  had  come.  On  getting  on  deck  they  had 
quite  enough  of  man-of-war  life  and  made  for  the  boat. 
I spent  Sunday  with  Mr,  and  Mrs.  Pearse,  and  on 
Monday  returned  in  the  Ellengowan  to  Port,  arriving 
on  Tuesday  afternoon,  to  find  that  Misi  and  wife  had 
landed  the  day  before.  I was  sorry  they  should  tumble 
in,  and  no  Tamate  to  receive  them. 

‘ The  Harrier  was  anchored  near  She  is  a pretty 
schooner,  and  w'onderfully  comfortable  for  all  hands. 
She  is  the  fastest  vessel  that  has  ever  been  here. 
We  left  at  six  a.m.,  went  outside,  and  for  the  first  time 
in  many  years  I got  sea-sick — consoled,  sailors  also 
sea-sick.  Reached  Hula  next  morning  seven  a.m.,  got 
teacher  and  wife  on  board  who  were  going  for  a 
change — arrived  at  Kerepunu  three  p.m.  We  left 
Kerepunu  on  Thursday  and  arrived  off  Cooktown  on 
Saturday.  The  captain  and  crew  of  Ellengowan  were 
paid  off.  We  did  not  get  away  until  Saturday,  August  4. 

‘To-morrow  I go  to  the  west,  to  Farm  Bay.  One 
of  our  New  Guinea  teachers  is  very  ill,  and  I fear  will 
not  recover.  He  came  to  us  shortly  after  our  arrival 
here,  nearly  eleven  years  ago,  and  in  after  years  followed 
me  to  Port  Moresby,  where  he  entered  the  college.  The 
year  before  I went  home  I placed  him  in  Farm  Bay, 
and  since  then  he  has  been  blessed  in  his  work.  I feel 
depressed  when  I think  of  him,  so  young,  and  giving 
such  good  promise  of  doing  great  work  for  Him  whom 
he  loves  and  who  loves  him  with  a Saviour’s  love.’ 

The  government  had  for  some  time  been  anxious  to 
secure  as  their  chief  station  at  the  east  end  of  New 
Guinea,  Samarai,  or  Dinner  Island.  This  had  in  the 
* This  vessel  had  just  been  purchased  by  the  Society. 


314 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


early  3'ears  been  purchased  b}’  Chalmers,  and  was  the 
Society's  property.  But  the  Directors  raised  no  objec- 
tion to  the  exchange  which  the  government  offered. 

‘ We  have  parted  with  Dinner  Island,  feeling  it  better 
to  do  so  gracefully  than  being  forced  to  do  so  by 
government  emergencies.  We  could  not  carry  on  our 
work  either  in  a place  where  all  that  is  bad  maj-  con- 
gregate. We  get  in  exchange  an  island  near  by  called 
Kwato — much  larger  than  Dinner,  and  although  not  so 
central  yet  ma}'  be  as  suitable  for  our  work.  It  Is 
all  our  own,  and  no  others  are  to  be  allowed  to  put 
houses  on  it.  On  Monday  I go  to  arrange  for  the 
removal  of  the  teacher  and  his  people,  and  also  to 
secure  ground  on  Hayter  Island  in  Stanley  Bay  for 
another  station.’ 

Three  important  events  took  place  about  this  time. 
The  first  was  the  demonstration  of  the  fact  that  the 
Murray  Island  Mission  had  practically"  collapsed,  and 
that  if  any  effective  work  were  to  be  done  in  the  Torres 
Straits  Mission  it  could  only  come  to  pass  by  beginning 
again,  and  upon  a new  foundation.  Mr.  IMacfarlane 
had  left  the  mission  in  1885.  Mr.  Harry"  Scott,  his 
successor  at  Idurray  Island,  arrived  there  in  December, 
1883,  but  was  compelled  by  ill-health  to  retire  from 
the  mission  in  1886.  j\Ir.  Savage  was  appointed  in 
1885,  but  in  six  years  withdrew  altogether  from  mis- 
sionary- service.  The  Rev.  A.  E.  Hunt  reached  Murray" 
Island  in  1887,  but  found  the  mission  in  such  a state 
that  there  seemed  no  prospect  of  successful  work  there, 
and  in  1889  the  Directors  decided  to  close  it  for  a time. 

In  September,  1888,  Chalmers’  heart  was  rejoiced  by 
the  arrival  of  two  new  missionaries,  both  of  whom 
had  been  trained  at  Cheshunt  College.  They"  were 
enthusiastic  and  active,  and  during  Tamate’s  visit  home 


The  Second  Mrs.  Chalmers 


315 


had  come  under  his  spell.  The  sight  of  them  refreshed 
his  spirit,  and  some  of  his  long-cherished  plans  for 
the  uplifting  of  New  Guinea  appeared  to  be  coming 
within  the  sphere  of  the  possible.  The  two  new 
members  of  the  staff  were  the  Rev.  F.  W.  Walker  and 
the  Rev.  H.  M.  Dauncey. 

The  third  important  event  was  Mr.  Chalmers’  second 
marriage.  He  has  himself,  in  his  autobiography,  sketched 
the  steps  which  led  to  this  event,  fraught  with  so  much 
blessing  and  help  to  himself  and  his  work. 

‘My  first  wife  was  a schoolmistress  in  Leeds,  and 
lodged  in  the  house  of  Mrs.  Large — Lizzie’s  mother. 
At  one  time  they  were  well  off,  but  lost  much  during 
the  cotton  famine  in  Lancashire.  Visiting  my  sweet- 
heart, I stayed  with  them  and  got  to  know  the  lively 
Miss  Lizzie,  then  about  seventeen  years  old.  We  became 
very  friendly,  and  continued  so  through  the  years.  After 
marriage,  we  visited  them  and  spent  several  days.  We 
arranged  that  Lizzie  should  come  to  us,  and  help  us  in 
work  at  Rarotonga.  My  wife  and  Lizzie  constantly 
corresponded.  But  a few  years  after  we  left  she  was 
married  to  Mr.  Harrison,  a very  excellent  Christian 
gentleman,  and  for  nearly  twenty  years  they  were  very 
happy.  Several  children  were  born,  but  only  one 
lived,  Bert. 

‘After  my Jeanie’s  death  correspondence  ceased,  and 
I lost  sight  of  Lizzie  altogether  until  after  the  publication 
of  my  first  book.  Work  and  A dventure  in  New  Guinea^ 
when  I received  one  of  her  old  delightful  letters.  In 
1886  I went  home,  and  after  spending  a few  days  in 
London,  I went  to  Scotland,  breaking  my  journey  at 
Retford,  where  they  were  living.  I spent  two  days 
with  them.  Mr.  Harrison  was  ill,  suffering  from  heart 
affection.  I went  to  Inveraray,  and  when  in  Edinburgh 


3i6  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

on  my  return  I received  a teleg-ram  saying  !Mr.  Harrison 
was  dead.  I hurried  to  Retford,  and  did  all  I could  to 
assist  the  widow  and  her  son. 

‘ During  the  stay  in  England  I saw  much  of  them. 
We  became  engaged,  and  after  my  return  to  New 
Guinea  I spent  a year  alone.  In  i8S8  she  came  out, 
and  we  were  married  in  Cooktown.  Arriving  in  New 
Guinea  we  spent  a month  at  Port  ^Moresby,  and  then 
went  east  visiting  the  mission-stations.  On  Christmas 
Day  we  left  Port  Moresby  for  Alotumotu,  where  we  were 
going  to  settle.  We  pushed  on  so  as  to  be  in  time 
for  the  New  Year  meetings.  We  had  a good  passage 
until  near  to  iMotumotu,  when  it  blew  hard,  and  a very 
high  sea  got  up.  She  had  a very  rough  life  at  Motu- 
motu, but  entered  heartily  into  all  work,  and  got  to 
like  the  natives  much.  I was  much  away,  and  she  felt 
being  alone.  I remember  once  being  away  for  many 
weeks,  and  on  my  return  I found  her  very  iU,  and 
gone  to  a mere  shadow.  Recovering  she  again  took 
up  her  work  with  zeal.’ 

Mrs.  Harrison  reached  Cooktown  on  October  6,  1888, 
V hither  Mr.  Chalmers,  on  board  the  Harrier,  had  gone 
to  meet  her.  He  describes  the  events  connected  with 
the  wedding  in  characteristic  vein. 

‘ Expecting  the  Jumna  in  before  her  time,  we  got  to 
Cooktown,  as  we  thought,  in  good  time.  We  anchored 
on  Friday  night  (5th),  at  eight  o’clock,  about  two  miles 
from  the  wharf,  ready  to  go  in  the  next  morning.  At  half- 
past five  on  Saturday  morning  the  watchman  called  out 
to  me,  “ Mr.  Chalmers,  mail  he  come  in  this  morning 
half-past  three,  he  anchored  no  far  off.”  Decks  were 
soon  washed  down,  anchor  w’eighed,  and  the  Harrier 
sailed  close  under  the  Jumna.  The  captain,  thinking  we 
were  going  alongside,  called  out  that  the  doctor  had  not 


317 


Crossing  the  Gulf 

been  on  board.  Lizzie  was  nowhere  to  be  seen.  We 
went  on  towards  the  wharf  and  met  the  doctor,  who 
came  on  board  and  passed  us. 

‘ The  pilot  boat  with  the  doctor  was  bound  for  the 
mail  steamer,  so  I got  a passage,  and  was  soon  on  board. 
Lizzie  lool^ed  well,  and  had  thoroughly  enjoyed  the 
passage.  The  captain  was  very  good.  I remained  for 
breakfast.  Our  own  boat  with  Captain  Hennessy  came 
off,  and  by  half-past  ten  we  were  on  board  the  Harrier, 
No  use  losing  time,  especially  as  I was  anxious  to  get 
back  to  Port  very  soon  ; so  I saw  the  parson  and  arranged 
the  wedding  for  twelve  same  day — just  an  hour  away. 

‘ It  was  capital  fun  to  see  the  state  Lizzie  got  in  when 
told  to  get  ready ; the  bride  was  rushed.  All  ready,  and 
away  we  went  to  the  parsonage.  Present — the  Rev.  and 
Mrs.  Canon  Taylor,  Miss  Henriques,  Captain  Hennessy, 
Mr.  Mowbray  (police  magistrate),  and  Mr.  Hely,  of  the 
New  Guinea  Government.  In  a few  minutes  it  was  all 
over,  papers  signed,  and  we  away  to  Great  Northern 
Hotel.  The  Canon  called  on  me  to  return,  and  we  two 
poor  old  “ gowks  ” went  back  to  be  drowned  with  rice  and 
old  shoes.  We  thought  some  paper  was  left  unsigned, 
although  we  had  done  four,  but  it  was  only  rice.’ 

The  voyage  across  from  Cooktown  to  Port  Moresby 
was  a trying  experience  to  Mrs.  Chahners,  even  after 
her  long  voyage  in  the  Jumna.  The  Harrier  was  a 
comfortable  vessel,  but  greatly  addicted  to  rolling. 
Mrs,  Chalmers,  in  her  journal,  has  given  a graphic 
picture  of  the  trip  across  the  Gulf  and  of  the  welcome 
at  Port  Moresby. 

‘ I do  not  like  sailing  vessels,  I must  say.  With  the 
Harrier  it  was  one  incessant  roll  and  pitch  all  the  time. 
I was  very  sick,  and  did  not  leave  my  berth  except  for 
a little  while  on  the  Sunday  night,  when  Captain 


3i8  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

Hennessy  anchored  under  lee  of  an  island,  so  that  I 
might  have  a quiet  night’s  rest.  I did  enjoy  the  brief 
rest  from  the  weary  tossing  and  rolling — felt  ver\*  weak 
and  ill,  but  not  sick.  It  was  a lovely  night.  A view  of 
Queensland  coast  and  several  bush  fires  in  the  distance. 
Pretty  well  wooded  island  close  by.  Just  a soothing 
rocking  motion  of  the  vessel,  bright  stars  above  and 
moonlight,  and  we  two  alone  to  chat  and  enjoy  it  all 
thoroughly. 

‘ At  three  a.m.  on  Monday  we  started  once  more,  roll, 
roll,  roll.  Poor  me  a prisoner  in  my  berth,  unable  to 
take  anything  except  soda-water.  We  got  outside  the 
reef  about  one  a.m.  Tuesday,  but  could  not  get  through 
until  daylight.  When  inside  the  reef,  at  5.30,  I had  my 
first  sight  of  New  Guinea,  and,  what  is  not  always  to  be 
had,  a grand  view  of  IMount  Owen  Stanley  away  inland. 
I cannot  teU  with  what  a curious  mixture  of  feelings  I 
gazed  on  the  country  which  was  to  be  my  future  home. 

‘ '\’’ery  soon  we  sighted  Port  Moresby : wdth  the  aid  of 
a glass  I saw  the  mission  compound.  Flags  were  flying 
gaily,  and  soon  we  could  distinguish  natives  about  the 
hill-side.  Then  we  saw  a boat  being  put  off  from 
the  station,  and  sundry  white  helmets  waving  a welcome. 
We  could  not  land,  and  they  had  no  business  to  come 
before  the  government  boat  had  boarded  us.  However, 
they  reached  us  first,  and  M’^alker  and  Dauncey  sprang 
on  deck  and  gave  me  the  first  hearty  greeting.  Then 
came  Misi  and  Misi  Haine,  with  a warm  welcome.  The 
boat’s  crew,  six  fine  bright-looking  fellows,  shook  hands 
with  a grip,  and  beamed  upon  me  in  a most  friendly 
manner,  talking  and  laughing,  and  telling  Tamate  their 
opinion  of  me  in  free  fashion.  Every  one  so  kind,  and 
all  looking  bright,  well,  and  happy. 

‘ After  chats  aU  round  we  got  into  the  boat  and  were 


Reception  at  Port  Moresby  319 

rowed  across  the  lagoon ; how  lovely  it  all  looked ! 
Before  us  the  two  native  villages,  built  in  the  water,  and 
above  on  the  hill  the  mission  compound.  As  we  near 
the  beach,  here  come  troops  of  friends  to  meet  us. 
Foremost  comes  Ruatoka,  of  whom  I had  heard  so  much  ; 
then  came  several  native  teachers  and  their  wives,  who 
are  in  Port  from  their  various  stations,  and  some  who 
have  only  lately  come  from  the  South  Seas  in  the  John 
Williams.  All  in  white  or  nice  bright  print  dresses,  the 
men  in  light  or  white  suits,  and  all  wearing  large  native- 
made  hats.  The  girls  belonging  to  the  mission  were 
mostly  in  white. 

‘ A crowd  of  natives  were  there  from  several  villages  ; 
the  men  have  just  a piece  of  string  round  the  waist,  but 
all  the  women  wear  grass  petticoats;  the  children  are 
quite  naked.  Somehow,  as  Tamate  beforehand  told  me 
I should,  I felt  it  quite  natural  to  see  them  in  native 
style,  and  did  not  feel  any  inclination  to  shrink  from 
them — which  was  fortunate. 

‘After  getting  through  the  lines  of  teachers  and 
mission  retainers,  I went  through  the  midst  of  the 
natives,  shaking  hands  right  and  left,  and  only  afraid 
of  nose- rubbing,  which,  however,  no  one  attempted. 
What  a noisy  excitable  crowd  they  were  to  be  sure ! 
And  all  seemed  glad  to  see  Tamate  and  his  wife.’ 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers,  soon  after  the  latter’s  arrival 
at  Port  Moresby,  paid  a coasting  visit  of  a month’s 
duration  to  the  stations  in  the  direction  of  East  Cape. 
On  their  return  they  remained  at  Port  Moresby  until 
the  close  of  the  year.  Here  Mrs.  Chalmers  began  to 
make  the  acquaintance  of  the  natives  and  to  become 
familiar  with  their  appearance  and  habits. 

‘ Various  people  from  inland  and  coast  tribes  keep 
coming  in.  Just  now  there  are  four  or  five  big  naked 


320 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


fellows  leaning  on  the  verandah  rail,  and  having  a good 
look  at  me  and  m3’  surroundings ; heads  hke  mops, 
some  with  feather  and  flower  ornaments,  beads,  shells, 
and  also  bone  too. 

‘ To-da}'  again  there  are  a lot  of  natives  about,  great 
fellows,  with  such  mops  of  hair.  The}^  like  to  nod  and 
shake  hands  and  look  at  me.  I wish  they  wore  even 
a loin  cloth.  The  women  do  not  look  at  all  bad  in  their 
nice  grass  petticoats.’ 

Chalmers  had  determined  to  make  Motumotu  his 
station,  have  his  home  there,  and  from  that  point  make 
continual  journe3’s  along  the  coast  and  also  to  the  inland 
tribes.  He  had  a high  appreciation  of  the  Elema 
natives,  and  was  anxious  to  bring  them  under  the 
influence  of  Christianit}'.  He  thought  too  that  from 
IMotumotu  as  a base  it  would  be  easier  to  take  the 
needful  steps  to  secure  the  great  desire  of  his  heart, 
namely,  the  establishment  of  mission- stations  upon 
a permanent  and  good  working  footing  at  suitable 
points  in  the  delta  of  the  Purari  and  the  Aird 
rivers. 

^Irs.  Chalmers  threw  herself  with  great  spirit  and 
courage  into  this  new  work,  and  it  was  upon  her  that 
the  brunt  fell  most  heaHl3’.  Chalmers  had  for  long 
3’ears  been  roughing  it  among  savages,  and  was  inured 
to  au3’  possible  experience  that  could  befall  him.  But 
Mrs.  Chalmers  went  to  Motumotu  with  but  a very 
inadequate  notion  of  what  life  there  would  mean.  What 
contrast  could  be  greater  than  for  an  English  lady  to 
come  from  all  the  comforts  and  customs  of  our  civiliza- 
tion and  suddenl}'  find  herself  planted  in  the  midst  of 
a tribe  of  fierce  savages,  of  whose  language  she  was 
ignorant,  and  whose  customs  outraged  ever}’  sense  of 
fitness  ? Her  husband  was  the  onl}’  other  European 


Settlement  at  Motumotu 


321 


nearer  than  Port  Moresby,  1 70  miles  away,  and  he  was 
often  absent  for  weeks  at  a time.  This  made  the  life  at 
Motumotu  a trial  of  no  ordinary  kind  for  his  wife,  and 
no  one  can  read  the  story  of  her  first  year’s  residence  at 
that  station  without  feeling  that  she  was  a woman  of 
remarkable  bravery,  devotion  to  duty,  and  of  high 
Christian  principle.  She  trod  a rough  pathway  faith- 
fully and  uncomplainingly.  And  possibly  one  of  the 
hardest  trials  in  her  life  was  the  fact  that  Tamate, 
although  he  had  a deep,  strong  and  true  affection  for 
her,  seemed  hardly  able  to  realize  how  grievous  a trial 
many  of  the  ordinary  details  of  the  life  were  to  her,  and 
especially  during  those  not  infrequent  periods  when  she 
was  left  at  Motumotu  alone. 

Tamate  and  Mrs.  Chalmers  left  Port  Moresby  on 
Christmas  Day,  1888.  He  was  anxious  to  reach 
Toaripi  in  time  for  the  New  Year  gatherings  of  the 
natives.  The  journey  was  made  in  a whaleboat,  and 
any  one  who  has  made  a twenty  or  thirty  mile  run 
across  the  Atlantic  swell  off  the  west  coast  of  Ireland  in 
an  ordinary  Kerry  boat  can  appreciate  the  discomfort 
and  downright  hardship  of  a voyage  of  this  kind.  We 
will  let  Mrs.  Chalmers  tell  the  story  of  her  home- 
coming, and  first  impressions  of  Toaripi. 

‘A  week  ago  we  got  here  after  a long,  tedious  voyage 
in  the  boat.  We  landed  at  three  a.m.,  and  I was  too  ill 
to  walk  to  the  house,  so  Tamate  sent  for  something  to 
carry  me  on.  The  scene  was  fine.  Two  boat-loads  of 
us  landed,  pitch  dark.  We  could  not  land  on  the  beach, 
owing  to  heavy  seas  and  surf ; so  we  entered  the  river 
some  miles  further  on.  We  knew  there  were  alligators  in 
plenty.  I declare  I hardly  dared  get  out  on  the  banks. 
At  last  in  answer  to  our  shouts  came  answers  from  the 
natives  and  the  teacher,  and  on  came  a lot  of  wild 

X 


322 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


fellows  with  blazing  torches.  They  crowded  round  me 
and  gave  me  an  excited  welcome, 

‘ I was  ill  and  worn  out  I had  been  twenty-six 
hours  in  the  boat,  and  during  that  time  had  only  had 
a few  biscuits,  and  some  cocoa-nut  milk  to  drink.  B)*- 
and-by  four  men  came  with  a sort  of  rough  sofa  from 
the  teacher's  house,  with  some  piUows  and  a mat  on  it. 
I got  upon  this,  and  six  men  carried  me  shoulder  high, 
others  leading  the  way  with  torches.  There  was  great 
excitement.  I wanted  them  to  put  me  down  at  the 
gateway  of  the  fence,  but  no,  I was  lifted  over,  then  on 
to  the  verandah,  and  into  the  house.  I wanted  to  go  to 
bed,  but  there  was  none ; no  furniture,  only  just  a mat 
or  two  on  the  floor.  There  were  no  doors  or  windows. 
AH  our  cases  of  stores  were  piled  up  in  one  corner  of 
the  room.  I could  not  stir  ; but  the  teachers’  wives  we 
had  picked  up  on  our  way  were  equal  to  the  emergency. 
They  got  our  mattress  spread  on  the  floor  in  the 
end  room,  and  soon  a comfortable  bed,  with  mosquito 
netting  stretched  across  to  nails  in  the  wall,  was  ready. 
Native  mats  were  nailed  up  to  the  doorways,  and 
I retired.  Tamate  had  boiled  some  water,  and  I took 
some  cocoa,  biscuit,  and  marmalade.  How  verv*  queer  it 
all  seemed ! The  waves  roll  up  with  tremendous  force, 
such  a rush  and  roar,  all  the  time.  \^”e  are  about  fifty 
\-ards  from  the  breakers. 

‘ The  house  is  made  of  rough  planks  with  high 
tl.atched  roof,  quite  open  to  the  top.  There  is  a ten  foot 
verandah  all  round,  over  which  the  roof  comes  down 
low,  making  it  nice  and  shady.  The  one  large  room 
has  been  partitioned  off  into  three  rooms,  a doorway 
back  and  front  to  each.  W’e  mean  to  have  doors 
some  time.  W^e  brought  some  folding  chairs  and 
two  cane  chairs  also.  The  sofa  is  of  wood,  with 


323 


The  Natives  of  Toaripi 

plaited  cocoa-nut  fibre  for  the  bottom,  and  it  is  like 
a spring  mattress.  A native  mat  and  plenty  of  pillows, 
stuffed  with  the  silk  down  they  get  off  the  trees  here, 
make  it  quite  comfortable.  A lot  of  mats,  pillows,  and 
a pretty  patched  cover  were  given  to  me  by  the  teachers 
on  my  arrival.  One  of  the  teachers  has  made  a good- 
sized  square  table,  on  which  I have  my  crimson  table- 
cloth, that,  with  a rough  wooden  cupboard  with  three 
shelves  above,  a piece  of  furniture  which  belonged  to, 
and  was  made  by,  poor  Tauraki,  the  teacher  who  was 
murdered  here,  completes  our  furniture  for  our  one 
living  room.  This  is  twenty-one  feet  by  eighteen  feet 
in  size,  with  native  mats  at  the  doorways,  looped  back 
in  the  daytime  to  give  light  (there  are  no  windows). 
We  brought  one  iron  bedstead  and  mattresses  with  us, 
and  netting,  so  we  sleep  very  comfortably. 

‘ The  natives  are  a very  wild  lot  indeed,  and  very 
powerful.  The  men  fine-looking  and  independent ; 
they  are  very  fond  of  dress,  and  ornament  themselves  in 
all  sorts  of  ways.  Their  heads  are  beautifully  decorated 
with  leaves,  feathers,  and  shells.  One  man  I admired 
very  much.  I thought  he  had  a gaily  coloured  net  over 
his  face,  the  pattern  was  quite  artistic.  I was  surprised 
when  Tamate  said  it  was  stained  on  the  skin.  There 
are  always  a lot  of  these  men  about.  They  come  to  see 
me  and  shake  hands.  One  chief  wanted  to  kiss  me  at 
first,  but  I objected,  and  now  they  are  all  satisfied  to 
shake  hands.  At  Lese,  where  we  called  on  our  way  here, 
I was  introduced  to  a great  cannibal  chief  and  his 
followers,  also  two  of  his  wives.  None  of  them  wore 
any  clothing  at  all,  and  they  had  just  come  in  their 
canoes  from  a great  cannibal  feast. 

‘When  Tamate  went  up  the  river  the  other  day, 
and  left  me  alone,  except  for  Meraka,  the  nice  old 


324 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


widow  of  a teacher,  who  is  to  stay  with  me  for  a 
few  months,  I felt  funny.  The  teachers’  houses  are 
a good  way  off.  A score  or  two  of  big  natives 
came  round  the  verandah.  Tamate  told  me  they 
would  not  enter  the  house  whilst  he  was  away,  and 
they  did  not  offer  to  do  so.  I went  and  sat  out 
amongst  them,  and  made  myself  as  agreeable  as  I could, 
let  them  touch  me,  and  shook  hands,  and  they  were 
quite  pleased  and  let  me  examine  some  of  their  precious 
armlets  and  necklets.  One  man  brought  me  some  fish 
and  another  some  young  cocoa-nuts,  and  I gave  them  in 
return  a bit  of  tobacco.  I do  not  feel  at  all  afraid  of 
them,  and  I do  not  think  I shall  be  afraid  to  be  left  with 
them  when  Tamate  goes  inland  for  a week  or  two.  But 
I shall  be  terribly  dull,  for  I cannot  talk  even  to  the 
teacher’s  wife. 

‘ We  had  thirteen  teachers  here  for  New  Year’s  Day. 
Most  have  gone,  but  two  are  staying  to  make  us  some 
doors ; but  I want  Tamate  to  pack  them  off,  for  it  has 
taken  three  men  just  five  days  to  make  the  frame  and 
cut  the  wood  for  one  plain  door.  They  are  busy  with  it 
now,  and  may  possibly  get  it  nailed  together  to-day,  but 
not  put  up. 

‘ January  1 1 . This  morning,  at  five  a.m.,  Tamate  pulled 
the  blanket  door  aside,  and  there,  a long  way  out,  was 
the  Harrier.  We  think  they  have  been  at  anchor  most 
of  the  night,  and  it  has  been  a fearful  one  ; thunder  and 
lightning  and  very  heavy  rain.  We  expect  Messrs. 
Walker  and  Dauncey  are  on  board,  and  they  will  stay 
with  us  whilst  the  Harrier  goes  on  with  the  Hunts  and 
Savage  to  Thursday  Island.  We  have  hoisted  our  flag, 
and  Tamate  has  gone  to  the  river  to  go  off  in  our  boat 
to  the  vessel.  There  is  no  possibility  of  landing  here 
during  this  season ; these  tremendous  rollers  would 


325 


School  Work  at  Toaripi 

swamp  any  boat.  Sometimes  the  waves  look  wild  and 
strong,  and  as  if  they  might  come  over  the  boundary, 
and  swamp  our  shanty  altogether.  So  the  Harrier  must 
go  some  miles  further  up  the  Gulf  and  enter  the  river, 
and  then  they  can  land  near  the  back  of  our  house. 

‘We  have  begun  school  work  here,  and  I gave  my 
first  lesson  to  two  or  three  boys  yesterday.  They  are 
learning  their  letters  and  to  count  in  English  up  to 
lOO.  We  are  going  to  put  up  a school-house  and  build 
a church  close  to  our  house.  At  present  they  have  just 
a sort  of  shed.  In  the  far  village  the  teacher  is  using 
Tauraki’s  old  house  as  a school.  There  are  a number  of 
villages,  and  all  built  close  up  to  our  boundary  fence  at 
the  back  and  sides.  We  have  not  much  ground,  so 
Tamate  built  the  house  as  near  high-water  mark  as  he 
dare,  so  that  in  front,  at  least,  I should  have  nothing  but 
pure  sea  air.  The  native  houses  here  are  miserable 
affairs,  and  packed  close  together,  so  that  the  villages 
are  very  unhealthy ; for  they  bury  their  dead  close  to 
the  house.  We  have  planted  in  front  and  round  the 
house  about  300  cocoa-nut  trees,  and  if  they  survive  the 
strong  winds  in  a few  years  there  will  be  nice  shade  and 
something  green  to  look  at,  instead  of  sand.  At  present 
the  trees  are  from  twelve  to  twenty- six  inches  high,  but 
in  four  or  five  years  they  will  be  pretty  tall  palms. 
Even  now  they  rest  the  eyes  from  the  glare  of  sea 
and  sand. 

‘ I have  three  boys  as  servants  : Barnaba,  Tamate ’s 
boy  from  Port  Moresby,  is  about  sixteen  years  old,  and 
understands  household  ways  a little  ; Naimi,  a Maiva  boy 
we  got  on  the  way,  twenty-four  or  twenty-five  years  old, 
very  good  for  boating,  and  a very  strong  great  fellow ; 
Bamuri,  about  thirteen  years  old,  is  really  Meraka’s 
servant,  but  as  long  as  she  stays  with  me  he  is  to  be 


326  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

ours.  Tamate  is  very  strict,  and  even  when  I feel  pretty 
well  he  will  not  let  me  do  much,  and  makes  me  lie 
down  for  a couple  of  hours  every  afternoon,  although 
I cannot  get  into  the  habit  of  sleeping.  I wish  I could,  it 
would  do  me  good.  I have  fever  on  and  oflf,  but  have 
never  been  quite  laid  up.  I am  so  watched  and  doc- 
tored that  the  fever  cannot  get  the  upper  hand,  but  it  is 
a nasty  feeling.  I am  much  thinner,  but  no  worse  for  that. 

‘ The  natives  are  running  and  shouting  in  the  village, 
so  I think  the  friends  irom  the  Harrier  are  coming  at 
last.  Here  come  two  captains,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hunt  and 
baby,  and  Jessie,  Mr.  Savage,  Mr.  Walker,  and  Mr. 
Dauncey.  Nine  extra  people — we  are  in  a fix,  because 
we  only  have  half  a dozen  of  anything  here,  so 
nothing  goes  round.  Mrs.  Hunt  and  I are  going  to 
sleep  together,  and  the  gentlemen  in  the  other  rooms  on 
the  floor,  with  a pillow  each  and  their  rugs.’ 

A letter  to  the  author  from  Tamate,  dated  January  21, 
1889,  gives  his  views  and  hopes  with  regard  to  the 
mission  at  this  time. 

‘ We  are  here  extending  west,  and  working  this  as  the 
central  Gulf  station.  I have  long  been  anxious  to  get 
right  west  to  Orokolo,  and  did  hope  to  do  so  now ; but 
other  places  require  teachers,  and  except  Rarotonga 
all  South  Sea  missions  have  failed  us  in  supply.  You 
will  hear  about  Murray  Island.  It  seems  impossible  to 
work  it  on  Macfarlane’s  lines.  Only  Christian  young  men 
should  be  received  for  training,  or  intelligent  lads  from 
the  mission  schools,  such  lads  to  be  returned  home  after 
four  years.  If  anxious  for  further  education  and  con- 
sidered suitable,  the}^  should  be  received  into  the  college 
for  the  training  of  native  evangelists.  The  taking  of 
heathen  lads  away  from  their  homes  and  returning  them 
once  or  twice  a year  has  failed  everywhere. 


THE  HOUSE  IN  WHICH  MR.  AND  MRS.  CHALMERS  LIVED  AT  MOTUMOTU 


327 


A Native  Prayer 

‘ Yesterday  a native  here  engaged  in  prayer.  It  was 
short  and  comprehended  much— “Lord  Jesus,  I am 
dark,  we  all  are  very  dark ; we  want  light,  give  us  light, 
and  save  us.”  We  have  two  teachers  here,  who  are 
getting  on  with  the  language.  I am  doing  my  best,  but 
years  make  it  more  difficult.  From  twenty  to  twenty- 
eight,  or  perhaps  thirty,  are  the  best  years  for  getting 
a thorough  hold  of  a new  language.  We  have  lost  Piri, 
our  very  excellent  teacher.  We  all  loved  him,  and  by 
the  natives  he  was  loved  and  greatly  respected. 

‘ This  Harrier  business  troubles  me  much.  I cannot 
think  we  are  worth  so  great  an  expense.  The  Ellen - 
gowan  was  too  small,  but  the  Harrier  is  too  expensive. 
Within  the  last  year  or  two  our  opportunities  of  getting 
about  have  increased.  The  purchase  of  the  Harrier 
startled  me  somewhat.  She  wiU  require  another  great 
outlay  immediately. 

‘ We  have  good  signs  of  good  work.  There  are 
quite  a number  of  Christian  men  anxious  to  be  trained 
as  evangelists.  Walker  and  Dauncey  are  well,  and  will  go 
to  their  stations  a few  months  hence.  Two  more  wanted, 
one  for  this  place,  and  one  for  Hall  Sound.’ 

The  fever  soon  laid  hold  upon  Mrs.  Chalmers,  and  in 
spite  of  all  her  husband’s  experience  and  watchful  care 
she  suffered  very  severely.  But  through  it  all  she  bore 
up  bravely,  and  in  her  letters  enables  us  to  realize  what 
the  hardships  of  life  in  a savage  district  are  like. 

‘ I am  just  beginning  to  feel  alive  after  my  last  bad 
dose  of  fever.  I do  wish  you  could  see  this  house. 
Tamate  thinks  it  a delightful  place.  I am  not  quite  so 
much  in  love  with  it.  The  walls  are  of  very  roughly- 
sawn  planks,  which  overlap  e ch  other;  so  inside  there 
are  ledges  innumerable  from  floor  to  thatch,  every  ledge 
a nice  accommodation  for  all  kinds  of  insect  life. 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


328 

I should  think  the  house  is  fifh'  feet  Ion  or  and  divided 

•r  O ' 

into  three  rooms ; the  partitions  are  the  height  of  the 
outer  walls  only,  and  leave  the  ver)’  high,  pointed, 
thatched  roof  open  from  end  to  end.  At  night  it  is 
too  liveh-,  rats,  mice,  and,  on  the  roof,  lizards  all  over  in 
armies.  I do  not  object  to  the  latter : they  are  very  tame, 
and  make  a cheerj'  chirp,  and  best  of  all  they  hunt  the 
spiders,  tarantulas  and  others,  big  and  htde,  cockroaches 
and  crickets,  and  beedes  of  all  kinds.  Ants  and 
mosquitos  abound,  and  they  like  me  ver^’  much.  I am 
bitten  aU  over,  and  my  only  time  of  peace  is  under  the 
mosquito  netting.  If  you  look  down  on  the  mats  and 
floors,  you  perceive  they  are  covered  with  life,  and  even 
this  paper  is  continually  covered  with  tiny  moving 
things  which  I blow  ofh 

‘There  are  about  3,000  wild  savages  here,  big,  fine, 
handsome  men,  got  up  in  truly  savage  style.  Tamate 
says  he  believes  I would  rather  face  a crowd  of  them 
than  the  insects  in  the  house,  and  I would  too.  At 
night  the  bats  fly  in  between  the  walls  and  roof.  We 
are  close  to  the  sea,  high  tides  come  nearly  to  the  fence, 
and  the  sunsets  are  grand — I do  enjoy  them.  From  6 to 
7.30  p.m.  I have  a good  time  of  enjoyment.  Every- 
day about  5 p.m.  some  of  the  swells  come  up  fully  got 
up  for  conquest.  They  look  very  fine,  hair  in  a great 
bush,  and  beautifully  dressed  ; some  have  plumes  a yard 
lone  made  of  tinv  white  feathers,  and  leaves  and  flowers 
tucked  into  their  belts  and  armlets ; faces,  some  beauti- 
fully painted  in  various  designs  and  colours  hke  fine 
network,  and  others  horridly  smeared  with  paint — 
bodies  greased  and  polished  to  perfection.  The  tight 
belt  round  the  waist  is  the  only  clothing  the  men 
wear. 

‘ The  girls  wear  a very  scant  bit  of  grass  back  and 


Loneliness  of  Mrs.  Chalmers 


329 


front,  some  not  more  than  six  or  eight  inches  in  length, 
and  the  women  wear  less  stiU,  often  nothing  at  all, 
They  are  not  nice-looking ; we  have  not  seen  one  bonnie 
girl  since  coming.  At  the  East  End  some  are  very  pretty. 
I do  think  it  strange  that  the  men  are  as  a rule  good- 
looking,  and  the  women  so  ugly. 

‘ The  life  here  is  altogether  different  from  that  at  Port 
Moresby.  You  would  be  amused  at  some  of  Tamate’s 
methods  of  getting  the  people  and  children  together. 
One  Sunday  morning  he  went  through  the  village,  and 
wherever  he  saw  a number  of  people  on  the  platforms, 
he  shouted  and  gesticulated,  and  made  a row  until  some 
of  them  came  after  us  to  service.  It  is  wonderful  how 
he  is  picking  up  the  language ; already  he  has  a list  of 
nearly  200  words. 


‘ In  the  midst  of  aU  our  sickness  and  worry,  it  is 
impossible  to  feel  dull  where  Tamate  is.  The  natives 
appreciate  fun,  and  if  you  heard  the  hearty  laughs  which 
I hear  just  now,  you  would  think  we  were  jolly  indeed. 
Tamate  gathers  them  round  and  has  lessons  from  them 
in  the  language,  and  they  roar  at  his  mistakes,  and  tell 
him  again  and  again  the  different  words.  They  like  to 
hear  English  words,  and  remember  them  well.’ 

From  the  earliest  days  of  their  life  at  Toaripi  Mrs. 
Chalmers  had  to  get  used  to  being  left  alone.  The 
trips  taken  by  Tamate,  in  the  prosecution  of  his  work 
varied  in  length  from  three  or  four  days  to  six  or  seven 
weeks.  They  were  for  him  seasons  of  hard  work, 
exposure  to  storms  and  difficult  landings.  To  his  wife 
they  were  times  of  loneliness,  often  of  vexation  and 
difficulty  with  her  boys  and  girls,  and  sometimes,  in  the 
early  days,  of  extreme  danger.  But  she  always  bore 
them  bravely  and  uncomplainingly,  as  the  following 
record  of  one  of  the  earliest  shows: — 


330 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


‘ Toaripi,  Motumotu,  March  8,  1889. 

‘ Here  I am,  all  alone,  Tamate  left  this  morning. 
I think  I should  have  gone  with  him,  but  since  my  attack 
of  fever  three  weeks  ago  I have  been  so  weak  and  iU 
that  I did  not  think  it  advisable  to  venture.  Tamate 
said  not  a word  about  going  until  after  breakfast,  and 
then  suddenly,  at  nine  a.m.,  “ Lassie,  there  is  a good  wind 
and  sea,  so  I must  away.”  Xaimi  sought  up  a crew,  and 
by  ten  a.m.  they  were  really  off,  bag  and  baggage.  The 
wind  has  been  favourable,  so  I hope  all  is  well  with 
them. 

‘ I have  been  very  busy,  and  the  day  has  passed  quickly 
away.  I had  all  our  boys  for  lessons,  and  they  enjoyed 
it.  I could  not  hear  reading  and  spelling,  but  we  had 
counting  tables,  and  sums,  and  then  writing.  We  make 
each  other  understand  somehow,  and  they  think  it  fine 
fun  all  round.  I shall  take  them  every’  day  if  I keep 
well.  Many  natives  have  been  round  to  visit  me,  and  to 
teU  me  there  is  a good  wind  for  Tamate.  Really  they 
came  to  beg  tobacco,  but  I only  gave  to  our  old 
pensioners. 

‘ Seven  p.m.  Mosquitos  terrible  again — there  is  nothing 
for  it  but  bed.  Very  often  lately  I have  been  obliged  to 
draw  the  mosquito-net  and  sit  on  the  bed  to  sew  or 
write.  We  have  fires  lit  on  the  verandah,  and  in  the 
middle  of  the  room  floor.  I am  almost  blind  with  smoke 
and  my  eyes  are  so  painful.  It  is  a choice  between  two 
evils,  mosquitos  or  smoke,  and  certainly  the  latter  is 
preferable. 

‘ Last  night  I thought  I would  shut  the  doors,  but 
it  was  so  very*  hot,  and  there  are  no  fasteners  on  them, 
so  I fell  asleep  with  them  wide  open,  and  found  myself 
and  the  house  all  right  in  the  morning.  Turia  and  wife 
in  from  Jokea ; he  is  ill,  and  so  I have  turned  doctor. 


Nocturnal  Visitors 


331 


Another  of  the  new  teachers  down  with  fever  too.  We 
have  had  prayer- meetings  here  as  usual.  I do  not 
understand  what  they  say,  but  I like  to  have  them  here. 
All  were  here  except  Uapari.  Meraka  is  going  to  sleep 
in  the  house  to-night.  I do  not  want  her,  but  she  thinks 
I am  lonely.  Barnaba  is  a good  boy,  and  my  right  hand 
in  everything,  though  he  is  only  about  fifteen  years  old. 
I brought  him  up  from  the  east  end  in  May  last  year, 
and  it  is  wonderful  how  he  has  got  on  in  school  work, 
and  everything  else  since  then. 

‘ loth  (Sabati).  Very  much  disturbed  in  the  night. 
About  nine  p.m.  a native  drum  commenced — it  is  most 
monotonous.  Fortunately  the  feast  and  dance  were  at 
one  of  the  villages  furthest  away  from  us.  They  kept 
up  without  a break  until  4.30  a.m.,  and  though  distance 
softened  the  sounds  I could  not  get  to  sleep,  and  so 
heard  all  the  frisking  about  of  rats,  bats,  and  lizards. 

‘ At  4.30  I heard  a man  outside  trying  to  attract  my 
attention  by  various  noises  and  coughs.  I called  out 
that  he  must  go  away  at  once.  I got  up  and  looked 
out,  but  could  only  distinguish  a dark  mop  above  the 
verandah.  Soon  after  he  knocked  at  the  other  end 
door,  and  Meraka  was  terrified.  I thought  they  had 
come  to  kill  us,  knowing  we  were  alone.  I think  it  was 
one  of  the  villagers  come  to  see  that  all  was  right — 
perhaps  just  called  on  his  way  home  from  the  drum 
aifair.  We  cannot  find  out  who  it  was. 

‘i2th.  Tamate  home  unexpectedly  about  two  a.m. 
Never  heard  a sound  until  some  one’s  head  popped  in, 
and  a voice  said,  “ Are  you  awake,  dear  lassie  } " I am 
very  glad  and  happy  to  have  him  back.  Every  one  on 
the  station  up  to  welcome  him,  and  many  natives  came 
too.  I am  glad  the  rooms  were  finished  before  he  came. 
I got  on  very  well,  and  was  not  afraid  at  all.  I like 


332 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


these  p>eople  ver}*  much,  but  I am  sure  they  could  be 
verj-  nasty  if  they  got  angiy*.’ 

For  some  months  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cha’mers  persevered 
steadil}'  in  their  work  at  Motumotu.  But  the  fever  had 
so  grievously  injured  the  latter's  health  that  in  May 
a visit  to  Port  Moresby  became  necessary.  The  journey 
had  to  be  made  in  the  whaleboat,  and  was  one  of 
the  worst  that  even  Tamate  had  ever  made.  It  also 
illustrates  his  skill  in  handling  a boat  in  the  wild 
Papuan  surf  and  his  nerve  at  a critical  moment  ‘ The 
long  journey  in  the  boat,’  writes  Mrs.  Chalmers,  ‘ was 
terrible.  The  first  morning  we  were  nearly  upset,  and 
shipped  a big  sea.  I was  drenched.  Eveiything  was 
wet  through  and  completely  ruined ; most  of  our  pro- 
visions were  spoilt  too.  M’ell,  Tamate  wrapped  me 
in  a blanket,  and  there  I had  to  remain  till  sundown. 
All  day  there  was  a rough,  nasy  sea,  and  veiy  heavy 
swell,  but  the  wind  and  current  fortimatel)*  were  in  our 
fevour.  I thought  at  times  that  the  waves  must  engulf 
us,  but  the  Htde  boat  rose  to  them  splendidly ; some- 
times she  seemed  almost  perpendicular,  and  then  down 
into  a deep  trough,  with  waves  as  high  as  a house 
behind  and  before. 

‘ Arriving  oflf  Maiva  we  were  warned  not  to  land — 
the  boiling  surf  looked  dreadful  right  along  the  beach. 
Two  splendid  fellows  swam  out  to  us  and  said  we  could 
not  land  in  safety.  Tamate  nearly  lost  his  life  here  some 
time  ago,  when  he  attempted  to  run  the  boat  ashore  in 
such  a sea.  It  was  sunset,  I was  ill  and  wet,  we  had 
had  nothing  all  day  but  biscuits  and  water,  the  wind 
was  now  right  ahead,  and  the  boys  would  have  to  pull 
to  Delena,  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  off.  Tamate  said 
that  it  looked  like  a stormy  night,  and  so  he  deter- 
mined to  risk  it,  especially  as  we  now  had  two  fresh  men 


A Dangerous  Landing  333 

to  pull.  I sat  straight  up  and  threw  off  the  blankets. 
I think  the  excitement  cured  my  sickness  and  headache. 
Before  turning  the  boat  for  the  boiling  surf,  Tamate 
said : “ Now,  Lizzie,  in  a surf  like  this,  the  boat,  if  she 
goes  at  all,  will  turn  right  over,  so  do  not  cling  to,  but 
keep  clear  of  her  if  possible.  The  boys  and  every  one 
will  think  first  of  you ; and  if  we  get  ashore  alive, 
never  mind  if  all  goes,  the  anchor  will  fall  out  and  keep 
the  boat.” 

‘Then  we  faced  it.  The  men  were  so  excited,  but 
Tamate  and  Naimi  timed  the  pulling  well.  We  got 
over  the  first  line  of  surf  all  right,  and  there  was  a great 
shout  from  shore ; then  a second  and  third  line  were 
crossed  successfully ; in  the  last  line  we  were  a little 
too  late,  and  should  have  been  washed  back,  and, 
meeting  the  next  breaker,  have  been  swamped,  but 
dozens  of  the  natives  rushed  in  up  to  their  necks  and 
dragged  us  on  to  the  beach — we  were  pretty  wet, 
but  thankful.  I went  to  bed.  Some  tea  in  a canister 
was  dry,  so  we  could  have  some  hot  tea  and  some 
biscuit. 

‘ We  stayed  from  Friday  night  until  early  on  Monday. 
Tamate  had  four  services,  one  at  Maiva,  and  three 
inland.  Four  young  men  were  baptized. 

‘ On  Monday  we  set  out  on  the  next  stage,  had  a fair 
wind , and  got  in  earlier  than  we  expected.  The  sun 
was  fearful  in  the  middle  of  the  day ; and  though  we 
had  as  much  shelter  as  possible,  I had  sunstroke  and 
fever,  and  yet  feel  pain  from  it  at  times.  One  night 
we  spent  at  Delena,  one  at  Boera,  and  then  on  here 
to  Port  Moresby.  Tamate  says  that  what  with 

putting  right  out  to  sea  to  catch  wind,  and  then 
coming  in  to  the  stations,  the  distance  travelled  would 
be  about  250  miles.  It  seems  like  coming  back  to 


334 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


civilization  to  get  here,  where  they  have  many  com- 
forts and  plent)'  to  eat.  The  beds  at  the  various 
stations  are  horrid — especially  after  sitting  or  lying  in 
a boat  all  day — wooden  planks  covered  with  native  mats, 
sometimes  a sort  of  mattress  made  from  the  cotton  they 
gather  from  the  trees.  My  bones  have  felt  so  sore  and 
stiff  at  times.  The  teachers  themselves  always  sleep  on 
mats  on  the  floor,  but  they  aU  have  a bedstead,  and 
sometimes  two,  for  the  use  of  the  white  missionaries.’ 

In  June  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers  returned  to  Motu- 
motu, and  soon  after  his  return  he  learned  that  Mount 
Owen  Stanley  had  been  ascended,  and  that  one  of 
the  keenest  ambitions  of  his  life  could  now  never  be 
fulfilled. 

‘ You  will  have  seen  the  telegram  that  !Macgregor  has 
had  Mount  Owen  Stanley  under  him.  ’Tis  done,  wish 
I had  done  it.  I am  glad  ^lacgregor  has  succeeded. 
He  knew  I was  going  for  it  in  August,  and  that  may 
have  hurried  him.  I intended  leaHnor  last  week  for 

O 

the  inland,  but  not  being  well  I had  to  remain.  I shall 
not  be  able  to  keep  really  well  until  I have  had  a good 
walk.  Victoria  would  have  given  me  .£^500  for  Mount 
Owen  Stanley.  ^lacgregor’s  expenses  must  have  been 
quite  that,  not  including  his  own  and  suiweyor’s  salary. 

‘ You  remember  I told  you  Misi  wanted  to  finish  his 
translation  of  the  Scriptures,  and  I offered  to  take  the 
college.  Since  returning  here,  pondering,  praying, 
seeing,  I fear — no,  not  fear — I feel  it  our  dun*  to  remain 
here — so  I think.  This  is  our  most  difficult  field, 
largest  population,  most  isolated,  and  considered  most 
unhealthy.  I began  the  work,  pressed  it  on,  and  am 
eager  to  carr}'  it  on.  I am  extending  fifty  miles  further 
along,  have  new  teachers,  and  we  both  feel  we  ought 
not  to  leave  them,  and  the  work  grows  on  our  hands 


Polyglot  Teaching  335 

here — so  what  is  to  be  done  ? Well,  here  is  the  solution. 
Hunt  goes  to  Port  Moresby,  and  we  remain  where  we 
are.  Or  a young  missionary  is  sent  out  at  once  from 
home  to  take  up  the  college  work  at  Port  Moresby. 
It  may  be  the  Directors  will  clearly  see  their  way  to 
send  us  another  one  or  two  for  the  west.  I might  be 
able  this  next  north-west  to  open  up  to  the  west  of 
Bald  Head  on  to  Fly  River.  It  must  be  done  in  a 
whaleboat. 

‘ Tamate  Vaine  would  remain  here  if  well.  Al- 
together, I think  she  has  stood  the  climate  so  far 
very  well.  We  now  have  a really  nice  home  here. 
The  house  has  been  greatly  improved  by  giving  it 
a coat  of  whitewash,  painting  the  posts  blue,  and  stick- 
ing pictures  all  about.  What  transformations  a lady 
can  perform  ! Ugly  pine  boxes  become  splendid  seats. 
’Tis  marvellous. 

‘ I fancy  you  would  like  our  home  now  it  is  deco- 
rated and  has  a woman’s  notions  aU  about.  Our  next 
move  now  is  to  have  it  enlarged  two  more  rooms,  so 
if  angels  or  non-angels  come  along  they  may  find 
a place  to  stretch  themselves.  We  have  a new 
school-house  built  in  the  compound,  and  hold  school 
in  it  daily.  We  teach  in  English  and  Motuan,  and  are 
learning  Toaripi,  so  as  to  teach  in  it  also.  In  our  school 
we  have  classes  in  the  following  languages — Suau, 
Motuan,  Maiva,  Toaripi,  English.  It  is  a school  for 
the  descendants  of  Babel.  I feel  nearly  confident  that 
unfortunate  tower  must  have  been  built  near  here, 
somewhere  in  New  Guinea,  at  all  events. 

‘ Our  great  difficulty  with  the  village  schools  is  the 
irregular  attendance  of  the  children.  They  cannot  see 
any  advantage  in  being  taught,  and  it  is  only  by  making 
it  lively  and  having  some  fun  that  they  will  come.  Only 


33^  Lifs  and  Work  at  Motamotu 

a few  of  our  teachers  like  school  work  ; they  dislike  the 
continuous  drudgery  of  teaching  A,  B,  C,  and  I confess 
it  is  heavy,  dreech  work  at  times,  especially  on  hot, 
close  days.  I teach  a little  English,  and  the  bairns 
rather  Hke  it,  laughing  heartily  at  their  own  mistakes. 
I am  at  present  engaged  preparing  a short  Scripture 
catechism  in  this  language,  and  when  finished  will  have 
it  taught,  say,  one  question  a day.’ 

Mrs.  Chalmers,  in  her  Journal,  gives  us  further  glimpses 
of  the  hard  but  happy  Hfe  at  Toaripi. 

‘ We  had  the  ordinance  servdce  on  Sunday,  and  a 
good  congregation  of  natives  to  witness  it ; they  were 
very  attentive  and  interested,  and  Tamate  tried  to 
explain  it  to  them.  We  have  no  church  members  here 
yet,  but  with  teachers  from  other  stations,  ourselves, 
new  teachers,  Xaimi,  Ikupu,  and  one  of  the  Hanamoa 
crew,  some  four  natives  from  Pari,  we  made  a goodly 
number.  It  was  a solemn  and  strange  sendee  in  this 
wild  place.  I could  not  help  contrasting  this  sendee 
vdth  the  one  at  home:  here  the  bright  sun  outside, 
and  on  one  side  the  dazzling  sea  breaking  in  hea\w 
waves  up  to  the  verv'  steps  of  the  church ; on  the  other, 
a portion  of  sandy  beach,  some  native  houses,  looking 
like  ha)-stacks  on  high  posts.  Cocoa-nuts,  palms,  and 
litde  peeps  in  between,  and  underneath  the  houses,  of 
the  wide  river  beyond ; plenty  of  dogs  and  pigs  running 
about.  Inside,  my  table  covered  vdth  white  cloth ; 
and  on  it  a jug  of  cocoa-nut  milk,  and  two  glasses,  and 
two  plates  of  bread.  Tamate  at  the  table,  a teacher 
on  either  hand.  I sat  at  the  right  hand,  and  on  the 
floor  at  my  side  the  native  members ; on  the  left  hand 
the  teachers  and  wives ; in  front  a gathering  of  orderly, 
interested-looking  natives,  many  gorgeously  painted,  and 
befeathered,  and  dark  faces  peering  in  at  the  six  doors. 


The  Death  Wail 


337 


Can  you  picture  it  at  all  ? The  church  is  built  by  the 
natives — walls  of  nipa  palm  spines,  and  thatched  roof 
of  palm  leaves,  floor  of  bark — two  doorways  on  each 
side,  and  one  at  each  end,  and  plenty  of  square  openings 
for  windows.  We  have  no  church  members  here  yet, 
but  we  think  of  the  Moffats,  and  feel  encouraged.  They 
were  fifteen  years  working  at  one  station,  and  not  one 
member,  and  yet  she  asked  a friend  to  send  her  a 
communion  service,  and  directly  after  it  arrived  they 
needed  it. 

‘These  people  are  very  quiet  at  present,  but  there 
has  been  fighting  at  Maiva  and  Kivori,  and  very  cruel 
spearing  to  death.  The  other  day  Tamate  started  up, 
saying,  “ Listen,  there’s  the  death  wail.”  Again  and  again 
it  sounded,  such  a weird  mournful  sound,  and  then  two 
women,  the  wife  and  daughter  of  the  dead  man,  came 
out  of  the  house,  quite  nude,  each  heading  a procession 
of  women  ; they  went  in  opposite  directions,  taking  the 
paths  he  was  most  accustomed  to  tread,  each  leader 
chanting  a sad  solo,  and  now  and  again  at  various 
stopping- places  all  the  women  joined  in  chorus.  It 
was  a strange  sieht  and  sounded  most  mournful.  We 

o o 

have  lost  three  teachers  here  in  less  than  six  weeks  ; two 
were  confined  and  fever  at  the  same  time,  and  one  fever 
alone.  They  are  most  difficult  to  manage  when  iU,  and 
do  not  give  themselves  a fair  chance  of  recovery. 

‘ There  have  been  two  fights  here  lately — some  were 
badly  hurt.  The  last  was  unpleasantly  near  the  mission 
house,  as  one  party  were  in  the  bush  close  to  our  fence. 
I was  on  the  verandah,  and  some  shells  and  one  or  two 
sticks  came  over  close  to  me,  so  I retired.  Tamate  and 
Ka  went  out  and  sent  off  one  party  (I  should  think 
there  were  200)  to  their  own  village,  and  then  Tamate 
went  into  the  bushes  and  routed  out  the  other  side  ; they 

Y 


333  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

were  angry  at  the  interruption,  but  eventually  cleared  off. 
They  wiU,  I expect,  fight  it  out  some  time,  and  go  further 
away  to  do  it.  It  is  a quarrel  between  the  young  men 
of  the  different  dubus,  and  formerly  would  have  led  to 
a desperate  fight  between  the  tribes,  but  now  we  are 
here  the  chiefs  wiU  not  join  in,  and  the}'  tr}*  to  stop 
the  fight.  The  young  men  have  been  shut  up  in  the 
dubus  for  eighteen  months,  only  coming  out  on  very 
rare  occasions,  and  at  night  to  get  a little  fresh  air  on 
die  beach.  They  are  most  of  them  fine  strong  fellows, 
and  anxious  to  try  their  strength  on  each  side.  They 
have  just  come  out  this  month,  and  freedom  makes  them 
rather  wild.  I think  I never  felt  mvself  amongst  savag-es 
as  I have  done  this  last  week,  the  excitement  has  been 
so  great.  The  feast  to  “ Semese  ” has  been  held.  It  is 
only  held,  I believe,  at  intervals  of  many  years,  and  now 
we  are  here  and  getting  an  influence  over  the  people, 
it  iviU  most  likely  never  be  held  again  in  all  its  wild 
saN'agert'.  I am  glad  to  have  seen  it,  for  from  description 
one  could  not  possibly  imagine  it. 

‘ loth.  Yesterday  we  went  inland.  Tamate  thought 
he  would  like  me  to  see  Moveave  in  its  wild  state.  It  is 
tiresome  to  get  there  in  a boat — the  canoes  go  a short 
cut  through  some  winding  narrow  creeks ; we  went  in 
the  boat  up  some  splendid  streams  of  water,  tributaries 
of  the  large  river.  It  ivas  verj*  prett}'  indeed  ; the  banks 
were  covered  with  nipa,  sago,  and  cocoa-nut  palms,  and 
the  mangrove  swamps  look  pretty,  though  they  are 
so  deadly.  Y’e  disturbed  two  crocodiles  on  the  way, 
one  twenty  feet  long  at  least,  but  they  slid  so  quickly 
into  the  water  I could  not  get  a real  good  look.  I am 
so  anxious  to  see  one  close  to.  They  are  wondertully 
quick  in  their  movements,  and  being  tlie  exact  colour 
of  the  muddy  bank  one  can’t  get  a good  look  at  them. 


Visit  to  Moveave 


339 


As  we  got  further  inland,  we  heard  plenty  of  parrots,  and 
saw  a few,  and  many  wonderful  insects,  lovely  colours. 

‘ One  creek  Tamate  wanted  me  to  see,  and  with  some 
care  and  trouble  we  got  through  it ; it  was  one  continual 
wind  in  and  out — in  some  places  the  men  had  to  lift  the 
leaves  and  push  them  on  one  side  to  get  the  boat  along. 
Swamp  lands  on  each  side  covered  with  dense  vegeta- 
tion. It  was  such  a pleasant  rest  and  change  for  my 
eyes  after  the  constant  glitter  and  glare  of  the  sun. 

‘After  an  hour  or  two,  sometimes  on  the  broad  stream 
and  sometimes  in  winding  creeks,  we  turned  suddenly 
into  a grand  stretch  of  water.  It  really  was  lovely  ; we 
met  two  canoes  going  down,  but  they  turned  back  at 
once  when  our  boys  shouted,  “ Tamate  is  coming.”  Soon 
we  saw  houses,  and  thought  we  were  at  our  destination. 
The  way  was  quite  new  to  Tamate.  On  landing  we 
found  we  should  have  a tramp  of  two  miles  through 
thick  bush.  I was  not  well,  and  quaked  at  the  informa- 
tion. The  boys  said,  “ Not  far,”  but  Tamate  had  a notion 
of  his  whereabouts  when  landed.  It  was  my  first 
experience  of  tramping  through  thick  bush.  The  native 
path  was  just  wide  enough  for  a native  without  any 
clothing  to  walk  along,  single  file  ; tall  grass,  ferns,  and 
bush  plants  hid  the  path,  which  wound  in  and  out 
and  round  about  in  most  eccentric  fashion.  In  the  little 
hollows  it  was  ankle-deep  in  mud  and  boggy  green 
stuff,  and  sometimes  knee-deep,  and  in  the  deep  places 
the  thin  trunk  of  a tree  was  thrown  across.  The  natives 
spread  thick  palm  leaves  over  the  shallow  places,  and 
I got  over  without  much  discomfort — some  places  I was 
carried  over.  I managed  to  cross  the  genuine  rustic 
bridges  with  a native  to  hold  on  to ; the  wood  was  very 
slippery,  and  the  long  grass  had  twined  round  and  round 
in  some  places. 

Y 2 


340 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


‘ Ka  and  some  teachers  who  had  come  in  to  bu)'  food 
had  gone  the  short  way  in  a canoe,  and  given  notice  of 
our  coming,  and  halfway  through  the  bush  we  were  met 
by  a number  of  natives.  At  the  first  little  village,  I was 
so  hot  and  tired,  we  had  a halt.  Huari  carried  my 
folding  chair,  and  I sat  down  comfortably,  as  I thought, 
to  rest,  while  the  chief  sent  a boy  up  a tall  tree  for  fresh 
nuts.  The  milk  was  delicious,  but  the  rest  was  not ; the 
chair  was  low,  and  the  natives  crowded  round  in  a circle, 
men,  women,  and  children,  so  that  I could  not  feel  a 
breath  of  air.  I gave  up  the  notion  of  having  anytlfing 
to  eat  there,  and  was  glad  to  move  on  soon. 

‘ It  was  very  hot  in  the  bush,  and  I was  glad  to  reach 
Moveave  and  know  I could  rest  and  eat.  It  is  very  much 
larger  than  I expected,  and  the  houses  are  built  on  a nice 
open  plain,  which  felt  airy  after  the  close  bush.  The 
first  sight  was  a sad  one.  An  old  chief  died  a fortnight 
ago,  and  tve  had  to  halt  at  his  place;  in  front  of  the 
house  was  the  grave  in  an  enclosure,  nine  feet  square, 
and  inside  this  the  whole  family — widow,  children,  and 
grandchildren — are  living,  sleeping,  cooking,  and  eating. 
The  widow  does  not  come  out  at  aU  for  three  montlis, 
but  she  came  to  me,  naked  and  daubed  with  clay — so 
wretched,  and  so  dirty^  for  they  do  not  bathe  during 
the  first  mourning.  We  left  them  and  went  on  into  the 
village. 

‘There  were  quite  a large  number  of  dubus,  some 
of  them  much  higher  from  the  ground  than  any  Tamate 
had  seen  before.  I longed  to  get  up,  but  did  not  think 
it  at  aU  possible.  The  steps  are  just  tree-stems  tied 
across,  two  feet  apart  (sometimes  more),  to  two  long 
slender  poles,  and  they  are  not  as  a rule  very  straight 
across.  I was  terribly  tired,  and  hot,  hungry,  and  thirsty. 
There  were  a great  many  strangers  in  the  village,  as 


341 


A Moment  of  Danger 

a great  feast  was  in  progress.  The  houses  were  half 
hidden  by  immense  quantities  of  food ; splendid  bunches 
of  bananas  hung  round  the  platforms,  and  piled  high  on 
the  platform  were  taro,  sweet  potatoes,  yams,  cocoa-nuts 
in  all  stages  of  growth,  and  bundles  of  sago.  A great 
amount  of  cooking  was  going  on  in  front  of  the  houses, 
and  there  did  not  seem  one  place  to  rest  and  cool  off. 
On  a dubu  we  saw  some  of  our  people  who  had  come 
by  canoe. 

‘ Tamate,  to  please  them,  walked  with  me  round  the 
village ; such  a scene  of  noise  and  excitement  it  is  im- 
possible to  describe.  They  crowded  round  me  until 
I felt  stifled.  Out  again  in  the  centre,  which  is  rather 
open,  we  were  near  a large  new  dubu,  twenty-two  or 
more  feet  from  the  ground,  and  my  chair  was  placed 
underneath  for  shade  and  coolness ; but  it  was  no  use, 
they  would  stand  round  me  and  keep  away  the  air. 
Ka  and  Naimi  and  some  of  the  men  set  to  work  and 
put  more  strands  across  the  ladder,  and  I determined  to 
venture.  I shall  never  forget  the  ascent  as  long  as  I 
live ; but  at  last  I was  safely  landed,  and  it  was  delight- 
fully cool  and  shady — so  far  above  them  all.  I unpacked 
the  food,  and  we  had  cocoa-nuts  to  drink. 

' ‘The  getting  down  was  dreadful ; and  there  was  a 
sudden  misunderstanding  between  some  of  our  teachers 
and  the  natives.  In  a moment  every  one  seemed  armed — 
bows,  arrows,  and  those  dreadful  clubs.  Fortunately 
I did  not  see  the  quarrel,  and  when  the  natives  suddenly 
appeared  armed  and  around  us,  I thought  it  was  part  of 
the  show  for  our  entertainment,  and  I had  only  just  time 
to  realize  danger  before  it  was  over.  We  had  a narrow 
escape,  and  five  minutes  might  have  seen  the  end  of  us 
all,  and  no  one  left  to  tell  the  tale.  Tamate  seems  equal 
to  any  emergency,  however,  and  everything  was  made 


342 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


right.  It  was  want  of  tact,  and  nervousness,  on  the  part 
of  one  of  the  new  teachers  which  caused  it  all.’ 

We  interpose  a letter  here  from  Tamate  himself. 

‘Toaripi,  October  1889. 

‘ Tamate  Vaine  has  had  a severe  attack  of  fever.  We 
spent  a week  at  Port  Moresby  for  our  committee 
meeting,  and  a day  or  two  before  we  left  to  return  she 
complained  ; on  board  it  became  severe,  and  now  she  is 
quite  down.  We  got  in  here  yesterday  morning.  At 
Delena  a teacher  we  had  on  board  for  health  landed,  and 
during  the  night  died.  A number  were  present,  and  he 
told  them  to  be  active  and  strong  in  Christ’s  work,  that 
he  hoped  to  have  done  many  years’  service,  but  God 
says  two  is  enough.  Poor  fellow,  his  wife  was  at 
Motumotu.  I would  not  allow  her  to  leave  with  us 
as  she  was  nursing  one  of  the  motherless  bairns.  No 
one  thought  he  was  so  ill.  The  teachers,  seeing  he  was 
dying,  prayed  he  might  be  spared  a little  longer.  He 
said,  “ Why  ask  so  for  me  ? Why  keep  me  back  ? 
I am  going  home.  He  says  ’tis  enough.”  Yesterday 
when  we  landed  we  were  met  by  the  wife  with  her 
child  on  the  river  bank.  Eh,  it  was  a sad,  sad  scene. 
We  are  being  tried  as  by  fire.  God  help  us  to  be 
faithful  even  unto  death. 

‘ I intend  visiting  the  Fly  River.  When  at  Port 
the  governor  came  in.  I met  him,  and  had  a long  chat 
with  him.  He  has  asked  me  to  accompany  him  in  his 
Fly  River  trip — try  and  get  right  away  inland  and  begin 
a mission  there.  If  possible  I shall  accompany  him  and 
report  to  Directors.  Should  I not  be  able  to  go  with 
him  because  of  sick  teachers  or  sick  wife  I shall  visit 
it  when  able.  I do  not  leave  unless  all  are  well. 
Should  I be  long  away,  Tamate  Vaine  would  go  to 
Brisbane.  Next  year  I hope  to  visit  with  Tamate  \'aine 


^We  shall  die  like  the  others^ 


343 


New  Zealand  and  the  South  Seas.  I fear  the  enthusiasm 
is  not  so  great  as  formerly.  There  is  something  wrong. 

‘ We  shall  begin  at  once  to  get  accommodation  for 
eight  couples.  We  must  face  a future  when  we  may 
have  to  look  to  New  Guineans  alone. 

‘Walker  goes  east  alone.  I do  hope  the  Directors 
will  send  him  help  soon.  Dauncey  is  not  strong,  and 
remains  at  Port.  He  will  be  a great  help  to  Misi. 
Wood  for  a house  at  Delena  we  shall  begin  to  cut  now. 
The  next  three  years  will  be  our  most  trying  ones  in 
the  Gulf.  This  will  be  a grand  mission,  once  established. 
It  is  considered  very  unhealthy  ; it  may  be,  and  cannot 
be  helped.  Christ’s  command  must  be  obeyed.  We 
have  had  the  great  Semese’s  feast.  Many  of  the  young 
men  for  whom  it  was  held  made  light  of  it  and  kept 
away.  Will  there  be  another  ? I hope  not.’ 

‘Toaripi,  November  i8,  1889. 

‘ You  will  wonder  how  I get  on.  I am  very  weak 
and  poorly ; have  not  got  up  my  strength  since  the  last 
bad  attack,  and  Tamate  would  like  to  send  me  away.  But 
there  are  no  means  of  going  just  now.  My  great  hope 
is  that  we  may  be  able  to  hold  on  here  together  until 
the  place  is  fairly  started  and  working,  so  that  we  might 
be  able  to  leave  it  in  the  teachers’  hands  awhile,  with 
Mr.  Savage  to  come  and  go  and  generally  superintend 
matters.  We  have  still  a great  deal  of  sickness.  We 
white  people  stand  the  climate  and  fever  much  better 
than  they  do.  For  one  thing  they  lose  heart  at  once, 
and  say,  “ We  shall  die  like  the  others.”  They  will  not 
take  medicine  unless  made  to  do  so. 

‘ I always  get  up  as  soon  as  possible.  Even  if  I am 
lifted  for  an  hour  on  to  the  verandah,  and  then  back 
again,  I feel  the  better  for  the  effort  and  change.  You 
may  guess  I feel  like  shaking  them  up  occasionally. 


344 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


Tamate  says  I shall  never  understand  real  native 
laziness.  I rave,  and  hurrj'  up  the  boys,  'U'ho  creep 
round  as  if  they  had  all  day  in  which  to  do  five  minutes’ 
work,  and  my  right-hand  boy,  Barnaba,  says,  “ Oh, 
Tamate  '\’’aine,  do  horo^  kava  kava."  Do  horo  is  “ after 
a while,”  or  “ plenty  of  time,”  and  kava  kava  is  “foolish.” 
Do  hoj'o^  as  they  say  it,  sounds  like  no  hi0'ry\  and 
I feel  wild.  Poor  boys!  they  never  bustled  about  so 
much  in  their  lives.’ 

The  close  of  1SS9  and  the  first  few  days  of  1890  found 
Mrs.  Chalmers  at  Port  IMoresby,  where  she  was  joined 
by  her  husband  on  January  3.  On  the  seventh  they 
returned  to  Toaripi  in  the  whaleboat,  accompanied  by 
i\Ir.  Savage,  but  had  a stormy  and  difficult  passage,  and 
did  not  reach  their  destination  until  January  13.  At 
this  time  Chalmers  hoped  and  believed  that  in  Savage 
he  would  find  a colleague  who  could  efficiently  aid  him 
both  at  iMotumotu  and  also  in  the  work  of  the  Fly 
River.  Bat  this  hope  was  finally  disappointed,  and  in 
1 89 1 Mr,  Savage  withdrew  from  the  mission.  The 
work  at  the  station  was  consolidating.  The  children 
were  being  trained,  the  students  were  gradually  coming 
under  discipline,  and  services  were  being  regularly  held 
both  Sundays  and  week-days. 

On  January^  21  the  IMerrie  England  with  Sir  W. 
Macgregor  on  board  suddenly  appeared.  Chalmers 
went  off  to  her,  and  in  a short  time  Mrs.  Chalmers 
received  a note  from  her  husband,  saying,  ‘ Get  all 
ready  ; she  leaves  in  a few  hours.’  This  meant  that 
before  sunset  he  would  be  off  for  a long  trip  to  the 
Fly  River  with  the  governor,  Mrs.  Chalmers  had  known 
for  some  time  that  this  expedition  was  probable ; still 
we  can  hardly  wonder  that  she  writes  in  her  diary,  ‘ I was 
in  a state  of  mind,  Tamate  leaving  in  an  hour  or  two. 


Mrs.  Chalmers  alone  at  Toaripi  345 

I felt  dreadfully  bad.’  The  steamer  did  not  leave  until 
the  next  morning-,  and  she  writes,  ‘ The  last  little  prayer- 
meeting together  comforted  me,  and  left  me  brave  and 
hopeful.’ 

Tamate  was  away  for  nine  weeks,  and  although  for 
some  of  this  time  Mr.  Savage  was  at  Motumotu  he  rather 
added  to  than  lessened  Mrs.  Chalmers’  anxieties.  She 
really  had  the  whole  burden  of  the  work  and  its 
responsibilities  upon  her  shoulders ; and  she  had  to 
meet  them  with  very  imperfect  helpers,  with  only  an 
elementary  knowledge  of  the  language,  and  at  a time 
when  she  was  subject  to,  and  often  prostrated  by,  severe 
attacks  of  fever.  But  she  rose  to  the  occasion,  and 
did  her  part  right  bravely.  Tamate  hoped  at  the  start 
to  be  away  only  a month,  and  also  expected  that  Savage 
would  stay  at  Motumotu  until  his  return. 

Mrs.  Chalmers’  journal  for  this  period,  which  has 
been  preserved,  stirs  the  sympathy  of  the  reader  on  her 
behalf  in  her  loneliness. 

‘ February  9,  1890,  Sabati.  Terrific  storm  during  the 
night.  Every  one  awake,  and  students  and  boys  all  up. 
Natives  shouting  and  blowing  the  shell,  which  sounded 
most  unearthly  between  the  peals  of  thunder.  The  rain 
poured  into  the  houses,  and  all  their  mats  were  wet 
through.  It  rained  into  our  house  in  some  places.  I 
never  did  hear  such  thunder  or  see  such  lightning  in 
my  life.  I did  wish  my  husband  was  at  home.  Houses 
were  blown  completely  over  in  the  villages.  Sabati  as 
it  is,  they  are  obliged  to  do  a little  repairing,  and  from 
all  appearance  we  may  expect  another  storm  to-night. 
This  morning  cold  and  rainy,  and  all  services  very  late. 
I jumped  out  of  bed,  and  ran  out  to  fasten  a door,  and 
the  wind  and  I had  a trial  of  strength  for  it ; in  a minute 
I was  wet  through,  and  I feel  cold  and  feverish  to-day. 


34^  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

‘ I am  teaching  my  bo5's  two  new  tunes,  and  they  are 
ver}'  pleased,  and  look  forward  to  singing  them  as  a 
surprise  to  Tamate.  One  is,  “Nearer,  my  God,  to  Thee,” 
and  one,  “ Rest  for  the  ^^’ear)%”  The  hymns  are  in  the 
Motu  book  which  we  use. 

‘ Februar)’  6.  Been  with  the  girls  at  washing — the 
women  left  them  to  do  as  the}’  liked,  and  when  I am  not 
there  they  let  them  mix  the  things  any  way.  Could 
not  eat  any  dinner,  and  lay  down  all  the  afternoon. 
Another  bad  night,  I’m  afraid.  I do  wish  my  dear  hus- 
band was  here  ; I feel  ver}’  much  alone  when  I’m  sick. 

‘ March  2.  Roused  all  up,  and  saw  them  off  to  service. 
I feel  ver}’  poorl}’  this  morning,  and  did  not  sleep. 
Terai  and  Ka  a little  better,  and  all  out  for  forenoon 
service.  I went  to  the  Motu  sen’ice  and  stayed  in  all  the 
rest  of  the  day.  Sent  sick  folks  a mug  of  soup  each 
at  dinner-time.  Tipoki  verj’  poorl)'- ; Ola  is  to  take 
students  in  the  morning.  I have  been  obliged  to  rest 
to-day  and  take  quinine. 

‘ Eleven  p.m.  Just  ready  for  bed  when  it  seemed  as  if 
bedlam  had  suddenly  broken  loose  on  the  beach  and  close 
to  the  house.  I put  on  a dressing-gown,  and  went  out 
to  find  about  fifty  young  fellows  hiding  behind  our  fence, 
and  a crowd  coming  along  past  the  church  with  torches, 
dancing  and  yehing  like  maniacs.  I knew  there  would 
be  no  sleep  for  me  if  I could  not  stop  them,  so  out  on 
the  beach  I went.  There  was  poor  me  in  the  midst  of 
those  fellows,  scolding  right  and  left,  and  turning  them 
off  the  fence.  I made  them  understand  that  the  whole 
beach  was  their  own  to  make  a row  on  except  the  small 
portion  between  the  end  ot  our  fence  and  the  boat-house. 
I left  them  talking  the  matter  over,  and  went  with  Boari 
at  my  heels  to  meet  the  advancing  host;  really  they 
looked  formidable,  but  before  I could  reach  them  I was 


347 


Mrs.  Chalmers^  Courage 

joined  by  about  twenty  older  men  from  the  village. 
I addressed  them  in  a mixture  of  English,  Motuan, 
Toaripian,  and  many  signs,  all  of  which  I hope  they 
appreciated.  I am  sure  I did  myself,  and  could  have 
laughed  heartily  at  the  ridiculous  figure  I cut.  One 
good  old  fellow  patted  me  on  the  shoulder  in  a most 
paternal  manner,  and  told  me  to  go  and  sleep,  and  they 
would  see  I was  not  disturbed  any  more.’ 

Chalmers  returned  on  March  25,  greatly  to  the  delight 
and  comfort  of  his  wife,  and  to  the  benefit  of  work  at  the 
station.  The  reason  for  his  visit  to  the  Fly  River  was 
the  need  for  reorganizing  the  whole  of  the  Western 
Branch  of  the  New  Guinea  Mission.  The  Directors  had 
fixed  their  thoughts  upon  Chalmers  as  the  only  man 
strong  enough  for  the  work.  He  himself  went  to  see 
exactly  how  matters  stood,  and  to  form  his  judgement 
after  inspecting  the  stations,  and  also  getting  as  far  up 
the  great  river  as  possible.  In  this  enterprise  Sir  W. 
Macgregor  was  anxious  to  help  him  in  every  possible 
way : — 

‘ I got  back  last  week  from  my  nine  weeks’  western 
trip  with  the  governor.  Tamate  Vaine  was  left  alone. 
The  first  few  weeks  Mr.  Savage  was  here,  but  he  had  to 
leave,  and  then  she  had  all  the  work  on  her  shoulders, 
and  right  well  did  she  bear  it.  You  know  she  is  yet 
what  is  called  a “ new  chum,”  but  she  carried  on  every 
branch  of  the  work  quite  in  “ old  chum  ” style.  She 
has  been  very  ill  with  fever,  but  on  my  arrival  was 
better.  If  we  could  agree  to  part,  I suggest  she  takes  up 
a central  station  and  out-stations  for  herself,  but  I fancy 
we  can  get  on  better  together.  She  and  the  savages  hit 
it  well,  and  they  gave  her  no  trouble  during  my  absence. 
I believe  we  shall  leave  this  part  of  the  mission  and 
go  west  to  the  Fly  River  and  Western  District.  The 


348  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

Directors  want  to  rebegin  the  Fly  River  work,  and  they 
are  anxious  it  should  be  carried  on  vigorously  lest 
another  should  step  in  and  take  our  crown.  I cannot 
sa)’  much  of  what  I saw  of  the  mission.  A good  feeling 
has  been  created,  and  we  have  something  to  work  on. 
The  country  is  everywhere  low  and  swampy,  and  I fear 
will  be  a bad  fever  district.  "\^"e  must  have  a successor 
here  to  carr}'  on  the  college,  station,  and  out-station  work. 
"U’ere  Britain  only  nearer  we  should  run  home  and  confer, 
but  we  are  too  far  away.  At  present  we  are  enlarging 
our  house  here,  and  will  continue  all  our  work  as  if 

remaining^. 

‘ I hope  we  shall  be  able  to  leave  soon  for  a trip  to 
the  South  Seas  and  Xew  Zealand.  I want  to  spend  next 
Christmas  with  the  Dunedm  folks,  if  at  all  possible. 
Lizzie  is  afraid  It  will  talee  too  much  time.  She  will 
likely  go  to  England  while  we  are  getting  things  straight 
in  the  Western  District.  There  will  be  a good  deal  of 
roughing  it  for  a few  } ears.  She  is  not  afraid  of  that, 
but  the  no  house  won’t  do  for  a “ new  chum,”  and  in 
a region  where  I fear  there  wUl  be  plenty  of  fever.’ 

Chalmers’  view  of  his  wife’s  power  to  get  on  with  the 
natives  is  confirmed  bj'her  own  statement  at  this  time : — 

‘ I am  quite  attached  to  these  wild  people.  Indeed 
I always  did  like  and  get  on  much  better  wdth  wild 
rowdy  folks,  than  tame  quiet  ones.  Some  of  the  wildest 
here  will  do  anything  I ask  them,  though  they  don’t 
profess  to  like  or  have  sympathy  -with  the  mission  of 
peace  yet.  But  when  Tamate  was  away  and  they  began 
to  work  at  canoe-making,  and  have  skirmishing  on  the 
beach,  I asked  them  not  to  do  these  things  on  the 
Sabati,  and  at  once  they  gave  them  up,  and  were  quiet 
and  orderly  for  the  rest  of  the  day. 

‘ The  place  begins  to  look  like  a little  town,  and  aU 


349 


Voyage  to  Samoa 

the  people  gather  about  us  in  a free  and  easy  way.  ^ 
I encourage  them  round  always.  Our  house  and  lives 
are  open  to  all  eyes.’ 

In  the  middle  of  the  year  1890,  it  became  evident  that 
Mrs.  Chalmers  must  have  complete  rest  and  change. 

She  had  been  brought  so  low  by  fever  that  at  one 
time  hope  of  her  recovery  had  almost  entirely  gone. 
Chalmers  himself  was  anxious  to  reinvigorate  the 
missionary  enthusiasm  among  the  students  at  Rarotonga 
and  Samoa.  Hence  it  was  decided  that  he  and  his  wife 
should  pay  a visit  to  both  groups  of  islands.  Chalmers, 
w'ho  was  ever  on  the  alert  to  utilize  even  health  trips  for 
the  benefit  of  his  work,  hoped  also  to  raise  money  enough 
in  the  colonies  to  get  a fine  steam  launch  for  his  new 
work  on  the  Fly  River.  In  his  letters,  and  those  of 
Mrs.  Chalmers,  we  can  follow  them  on  this  attractive 
and  useful  and  health-restoring  journey  : — 

‘Brisbane,  August  15. 

‘Been  travelling,  and  have  got  this  far  on  our  way 
south.  The  weather  is  cold,  and  we  are  afraid  to  move 
on  until  really  necessary.  We  are  staying  just  a few 
miles  out  of  Brisbane  with  the  Scotts,  right  good  friends. 
Tamate  Hahine  ^ is  better.  At  Cooktown  she  was  very 
iU,  but  improved  a little  before  leaving.  On  the  way 
down  she  got  much  better.  Since  coming  here  in  the 
week  I have  addressed  six  meetings.  This  afternoon  we 
have  an  invite  to  a garden  party  at  Government  House,  to 
meet  Lord  Charles  Scott,  the  admiral  of  the  Australian 
station.  I suppose  I must  go.  One  day  we  had  tiflSn 
with  the  bishop.  We  intend  remaining  here  until  it  is 
time  to  go  further  south  and  meet  the  Samoan  steamer. 

It  is  too  cold  in  Sydney  for  Tamate  Hahine.’ 

The  voyage  to  Samoa,  and  the  pleasant  friendships 
* An  alternative  (South  Sea)  form  for  Vaine. 


350 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


there  formed  and  cemented,  are  set  forth  in  a letter 
written  by  Chalmers  from  Samoa  shordy  after  his  arrival 
there : — 

‘ Malu.-v,  Samoa,  S-ptev.bir  26. 

‘ After  twenty-four  years  here  I am  again  in  the  same 
house,  in  the  same  room.  As  soon  as  Tamate  Hahine 
was  able  to  travel  we  left  Brisbane.  We  arrived  in 
Sydney’  on  Saturday,  August  30,  and  left  again  for 
South  Seas  on  September  4.  In  Brisbane  I had  several 
meetings,  which  I trust  will  lead  to  a greater  interest  in 
mission  work.  In  Sydney  I had  three  minutes  with  the 
parsons,  and  spoke  straight,  which  they  appreciated. 
We  called  on  no  one.  '\\'e  met  the  Hunts  in  Sj'dney, 
and  accompanied  them  in  the  German  steamer  to  Samoa, 
\^*e  had  rather  a rough  passage  here,  and  were  thirtA’ 
hours  behind  time.  Louis  Stevenson  and  his  wife  were 
on  board,  and  we  enjoyed  the  trip  well.  They  have 
bought  400  acres  of  land  behind  Apia,  and  are  going  to 
squat.  George  Brown,  of  the  ^ii'esleyan  New  Guinea 
Mission,  with  his  wife  was  also  with  us,  and  you  may 
be  sure  the  smoking-room,  the  best  place  in  the  ship, 
was  well  patronised  We  called  at  Tonga,  but  did  not 
see  the  old  king,  now  ninety-eight  A'ears  old.  We 
visited  the  college,  and  were  much  pleased  with  the 
students  and  work.  A long  waj-  off,  in  somebod3‘'s 
time,  Xew  Guinea  wiU,  I hope,  have  the  same. 

‘ M’e  got  here  on  the  15th  inst.  at  night,  and  found 
the  John  Williams  at  anchor.  She  was  disabled,  and 
had  to  return  from  Xiue  here.  Clark  and  Claxton  soon 
boarded  us  in  the  John  Williams’  boat,  with  a Rarotongan 
crew.  Tuesday  was  a day  for  reception  and  memories 
of  the  past.  Twentj'-four  j-ears  ago  we  came  here 
“ distressed  British  subjects,”  not  a cent  in  the  world,  and 
with  borrowed  clothes  on  our  back.  Marriott  and 


Meets  R.  L.  Stevenson 


351 


Newell  and  Mrs.  Newell  came  in.  On  Wednesday  we 
had  a meeting  of  all  the  clans  in  and  about  Apia. 
A “ May  meeting  ” it  was  called.  ’Twas  a large  meeting. 
King  Malietoa  and  Tamate  addressed  the  meeting,  and 
the  three  consuls  were  present.  Newell  interpreted  for 
me.  On  Thursday  night  I gave  a lecture  to  “ whites,” 
Louis  Stevenson  in  chair,  and  had  a crowded  house. 
On  Friday  I came  here,  leaving  Tamate  Hahine  at  Apia, 
she  not  feeling  well  enough.  I spoke  at  prayer-meeting 
that  evening.  On  Saturday  I went  to  Leulumoenga  and 
addressed  Hills’  schoolboys.  On  Sunday  I had  two 
services,  Newell  interpreting.  On  Monday  we  had  five 
hours  of  it,  and  on  Tuesday  the  same.  Monday  was 
given  to  the  students,  and  they  made  right  good  use 
of  it  by  aslving  questions  that  seemed  to  comprehend 
everything.  On  Tuesday  the  pastors  had  their  innings, 
and  they  made  the  best  of  it.  On  Wednesday  I went  to 
Savaii,  and  stayed  with  Davies.  Yesterday,  Thursday, 
I gave  three  hours,  and  in  the  evening  left  for  here, 
arriving  12.45  a.  m.  Tamate  Hahine  not  so  well.  We 
leave  to-day  for  Apia.  To-morrow  night  another  lecture 
or  talk  to  white  folks.  Sunday,  native  service  in  fore- 
noon and  English  service  in  new  hall  at  night,  and  on 
Monday  away  in  the  Richmond  to  Tahiti  and  Rarotonga.’ 

Chalmers,  in  the  sketch  of  his  wife,  part  of  which  has 
been  quoted  already  gives  a fuller  account  of  this  meet- 
ing with  Stevenson : — 

‘ We  spent  some  time  in  Sydney  and  then  were  off  to 
the  islands.  We  had  as  fellow  passengers  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Louis  Stevenson  on  their  way  back  to  Samoa.  We  had 
a very  rough  passage,  but  the  smoking-room  was  well 
patronized,  and  we  spent  many  happy  hours  in  it  with 
our  new  friends.  Dr.  Brown  and  Mrs.  Brown  of  New 
’ See  page  315. 


352 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


Britain  were  also  with  us.  Oh  the  storv-telhno:  of  that 
trip ! Did  that  smoking-room  on  any  other  trip  hear 
so  many  yams  ? Brown  surpassed  us  all,  and  the 
gende  novehst  did  well.  His  best  stories  were  personal. 
My  dear  wife  often  said,  “ How  gende  and  lovable  he  is  ! 
just  one  to  nurse.”  He  was  in  veiy'  bad  health,  and  was 
well  nursed  and  cared  for  by  his  clever  wife.  M’e  be- 
came much  attached  to  one  another,  and  hoped  to  meet 
in  Rarotonga,  and  afterwards  in  Xew  Guinea ; but  we 
never  met  again  after  Samoa.’ 

Chalmers  thus  made  the  acquaintance  of  Robert  Louis 
Stevenson  and  his  wife.  It  was  inevitable  that  such 
a man  as  Tamate  should  possess  great  attraction  for 
the  brilliant  novehst.  To  hear  Chalmers  in  the  quiet 
chat  of  social  intercourse  describe  the  many  thriUing 
adventures  of  his  past  hfe  was  an  experience,  once 
enjoyed,  never  to  be  forgotten.  And  this  Stevenson 
enjo}'ed  to  the  full.  It  was  a happ}'  accident  which 
thus  brought  the  man  of  letters  into  contact  with  the 
man  of  acuon,  and  he  a missionaiy  not  at  ah.  after 
the  type  depicted  in  modern  ficdon  and  agnosdc 
journahsrm  Chalmers  was  in  many  respects  an  excep- 
donal  man,  but  he  would  have  been  the  last  to  claim, 
or  to  admit,  that  he  was  exceptional  in  either  his  love 
for  his  work,  or  in  his  devotion  to  that  blaster  from 
love  to  whom  he  gave  up  his  hfe  to  the  hard  and 
danoferous  toil  of  emn^felizing  the  savage  natives  of  the 
Papuan  Guh".  He  was  richly  endowed  for  the  hfe-work 
which  he  so  splendidly  accomphshed ; but  he  would 
have  scorned  to  accept  any  appreciauon  of  his  own 
work  if  accompanied  by  depreciation  of  his  fehows  from 
ah  churches  also  seeking  to  et'angehze  the  heathen 
world. 

Chalmers  was  a man  after  Stevenson's  own  heart. 


^Tamate,  a man  I love^ 


353 


Then  he  was  a fellow  Scot,  and  had  for  twenty- five 
years  been  living’  through  and  experiencing  adventures 
by  flood  and  field  of  the  very  kind  which  possessed 
the  most  attraction  for  the  author  who  was  afterwards 
to  write  the  Beach  of  Bales  a and  the  Ebb  Tide.  A 
man  who  had  been  able  to  exert  some  restraining 
influence  over  the  fierce  ruffian  ‘ Bully  Hayes,’  who, 
when  the  lives  of  all  in  it  depended  upon  his  nerve 
at  the  critical  moment,  could  steer  with  the  skill  of 
the  best  natives  a boat  through  the  mighty  Polynesian 
surf ; a man  who  had  visited  nearly  every  part  of 
Western  Polynesia,  and  who  numbered  among  his 
friends  the  chiefs  of  many  a ferocious  New  Guinea 
tribe ; a man,  moreover,  who,  in  the  explorer,  had  never 
for  a moment  lost  sight  of  his  great  mission,  no  other 
than  that  of  his  Master,  to  seek  and  to  save  the  lost — 
such  an  one  was  indeed  likely  to  be  grappled  to  the 
heart  of  R.  L.  Stevenson  as  soon  as  they  had  looked 
one  another  in  the  face.  Would  that  the  smoking-room 
of  that  steamer  in  which  they  met  could  have  recorded 
the  brilliant  talk  that  passed  within  its  walls ! 

Nor  was  Stevenson  slow  to  recognize  and  reluctant 
to  acknowledge  the  value  of  the  friendship  thus  begun. 
In  December,  1890,  he  wrote,  ‘Christmas  I go  to 
Auckland  to  meet  Tamate,  the  New  Guinea  missionary, 
a man  I love  h’  Mr.  Graham  Balfour  in  the  Life  of 
Robert  Louis  Stevenson  states : — 

‘ His  personal  relations  with  the  Protestant  mission- 
aries in  Samoa  were  most  pleasant.  He  was  a loyal 
and  generous  friend  to  every  man  and  woman  among 
them,  told  them  quite  plainly  whenever  he  disagreed 
with  them,  or  disapproved  of  their  line  of  conduct,  and 
was  a most  stimulating  and  liberal  influence  on  their 
^ Letters^  ii.  212. 

Z 


354 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


work  . . . for  Mr.  Chalmers,  Tamate  of  Xew  Guinea,  he 
felt  a kind  of  hero-worship,  a greater  admiration  pro- 
bably than  he  felt  for  any  man  of  modern  times  except 
Charles  Gordon 

At  Apia,  on  September  i8,  1S90,  Chalmers  gave  a 
lecture  on  Xew  Guinea,  at  which  Stevenson  took  the 
chair.  In  the  course  of  his  speech  Stevenson  said, 
‘ There  are  some  men  who  never  need  introducing,  and 
Tamate,  as  I prefer  to  call  him,  is  one  of  these.  It  has 
been  m}*  good  fortune  to  steal  a march  upon  mt*  fellow 
townsmen,  and  to  anticipate  mant’ofyou  in  the  privilege 
of  acquaintance  with  Ikir.  Chalmers,  for  I travelled  with 
him  from  Sydney  here.  This  intimate  intercourse  has 
resulted  in  my  having  the  highest  admiration  for 
i\Ir.  Chalmers.  And  I am  sure  that  aU  present  will  not 
only  enjoy  listening  to  his  narrative,  but  will  also  very 
heartily  wish  him  God-speed  in  all  his  future  endeavours 
as  a pioneer  of  civilization  and  love.  I believe  we  shall 
all  be  stimulated  to  greater  courage  in  taking  up  the 
cross  that  all  heroic  souls  have  taken — the  cross  of  h'ght 
and  progress.’ 

Stevenson  cherished  the  hope  of  visiting  Tamate  in 
Xew  Guinea,  but  this  design  proved,  unhappily,  impos- 
sible. But  for  some  t'ears  a correspondence  was  kept 
up,  and  we  are  able  to  quote  here  three  hitherto  unpub- 
lished letters  from  Stevenson  to  his  friend,  letters  as 
characteristic  and  striking  as  any  that  even  that  brilliant 
letter- writer  penned. 

‘ Vailima,  Apia,  November  5,  1890. 

‘ My  dear  Tamate. — I wish  I could  teU  you  how 
pleased  I was  to  get  your  note.  I shall  never  cease  to 
rejoice  I had  the  good  fortune  to  meet  you  ; and  what- 
ever you  are  good  enough  to  think  of  me,  be  sure  it  is 
* Life,  voL  ii.  pp.  126,  127. 


Letters  from  R.  L.  Stevenson  355 

returned  with  interest.  I cannot  come  on  the  Rich- 
mond ; our  presence  is  very  needful,  and  work  pressing  ; 
the  most  I can  do  (and  in  that  I do  not  mean  to  fail)  is 
to  go  by  the  next  Wainui,  and  meet  you,  and  arrive 
about  the  same  time  with  you  in  Auckland.  My  wife, 
who  is  tired  and  dirty  and  rheumatic,  and  embittered 
by  bad  yeast,  and  yet  (like  myself)  interested  beyond 
measure  by  our  hard  and  busy  life  here  on  the  moun- 
tain, bids  me  send  all  things  nice.  “ I cannot  think  of 
anything  nice  enough,”  quoth  she,  “ to  Tamate  and  his 
wife.” 

* The  same  from 

‘ Your  affectionate  friend, 

‘Robert  Louis  Stevenson.’ 

(Undated.  Late  in  1890  or  early  in  1891.) 

* My  dear  Tamate. — I had  looked  forward  to  meeting 
you  with  a pleasure  that  I should  find  it  hard  to  exag- 
gerate. The  kindness  of  your  letter,  which  encourages 
me  to  suppose  that  you  yourself  had  looked  forward 
to  the  event,  makes  me  the  more  sad  to-day.  Yet  I am 
very  sure  you  will  approve  me  altogether.  I have  my 
work  well  forward,  I have  never  done  so  much  in  so 
short  a time  before.  I am  pretty  tired.  I looked  for- 
ward to  a change,  and  here  is  the  state  of  affairs ; my 
wife  has  been  working  and  over- working ; cutting, 
planting,  digging.  All  the  time  she  has  never  heard 
from  her  son;  and  has  not  the  usual  consolation,  for 
Lloyd  has  never  neglected  to  write  to  us.  Doubtless 
the  post  office  is  at  fault,  so  we  think,  so  we  know, 
but  this  scarce  mitigates  the  strain  of  waiting  and  the 
annoyance  of  receiving  disappointments.  I was  prac- 
tically packed  up  to  come  away,  and  I have  given  up. 
My  wife  is  not  fit  to  be  left  alone  with  all  this  work  and 
all  these  workmen.  It  would  be  base  in  me  if  I dreamed 


3s6  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

of  leaving  her.  You  must  go  without  my  farewell ; and 
I must  do  without  the  inspiration  of  seeing  you. 

‘ I am  a man  now  past  fort}',  Scotch  at  that,  and  not 
used  to  big  expressions  in  friendship ; and  used  on  the 
other  hand  to  be  ver}'  much  ashamed  of  them.  Now, 
when  I break  my  word  to  you,  I may  say  so  much ; 
I count  it  a privilege  and  a benefit  to  have  met  you. 
I count  it  loss  not  to  meet  with  you  again. 

‘ “ Just  now,”  I make  haste  to  add.  If  death  spare  us, 
and  the  junctions  of  life  permit,  I mean  to  see  you,  and 
that  soon.  If  things  oppose,  accept  the  expression  of  my 
love  and  gratitude,  my  love  for  yourself,  my  gratitude 
for  your  example  and  your  kindness. 

‘ I hope  Mrs,  Chalmers  will  not  mind  if  I send  also 
m\-  love  to  her ; and  my  wife’s.  How  often  have  we 
talked  of  you  both. ; how  often  shall  we  not  think  of  you 
in  the  future ! I ask  you  as  a particular  favour,  send 
me  a note  of  the  most  healthy  periods  in  New  Guinea. 
I am  only  a looker  on.  I have  a (rather  hea\’y')  charge 
of  souls  and  bodies.  If  I can  make  out  any  visit,  it  must 
be  done  sensibly,  and  with  the  least  risk.  But  oh, 
Tamate,  if  I had  met  you  when  I was  a boy  and  a 
bachelor,  how  different  my  life  would  have  been ! 

‘ Dear  Mrs.  Chalmers,  you  say  (and  very'  justly), 
“ Tamate  is  such  a rowdy” — y'ourown  excellent  expres- 
sion, I wonder  if  even  y'ou  know  what  it  means,  to 
a man  like  me — a veiy^  clever  man,  no  modesty,  observ’e ! 
a man  fairly  critical,  a man  of  the  world  (in  most  of  the 
ill  senses),  to  meet  one  who  represents  the  essential,  and 
who  is  so  free  from  the  formal,  from  the  grimace.  My' 
fnend,  Mr.  Clarke,  said,  “ I wish  I could  have  him  for 
a colleague  to  keep  me  up  to  the  mark,”  So  I ; I wish 
I had  him  for  a neighbour  to  keep  me  human. 

‘ Farewell ! Forgive  me  my  failure.  I think  your 


Letters  from  R.  L.  Stevenson 


357 


Master  would  have  had  me  break  my  word.  I live  in  the 
hope  of  seeing  you  again.  I pray  God  watch  over  you. 

‘ Your  sincere  friend, 

‘ Robert  Louis  Stevenson.’ 

‘Vailima,  May,  1891. 

‘ My  dear  Tamate. — Your  photograph  is  on  my 
chimney-shelf  as  large  as  life,  for  I am  in  my  new  house, 
more  betoken  as  the  head  of  me  is  in,  and  the  tail  still 
out  in  the  bush.  It’s  a change  any  way ; and  my 
mother  has  just  come  two  days  ago,  and  I am  on  the 
mend,  and  my  wife  is  far  from  well,  mainly  overwork, 
I still  hope,  to  pass  away  when  we  come  to  some  kind 
of  a bearing. 

‘ The  trouble  about  the  photograph  is  this.  It  was 
sent  to  me  enclosed  in  a very  kind  letter  from  a lady  ’ : 
what  was  her  name  ? Eh,  man,  I canna  teU  ye ! 
Whaur’s  her  letter  ? Weel,  nae  doubt,  but  it’s  here, 
but  ye  see  there’s  a routh  o’  paper  a’  round  me,  and  it’s 
got  in  mixty-maxty  in  the  lave-o’t,  and  I canna  just  pit 
ma  hand  upon  the  bit.  I am  really  much  vexed ; for 
I had  meant  to  express  my  obligation  to  the  lady 
properly— and  I wiU  too,  in  case  I get  hold  of  the 
missing  note  before  an  unreasonable  lapse  of  time ; 
and  meanwhile  my  only  hope  is  you  may  send  on  this 
screed  to  Tamate  Vaine,  who  is  far  more  of  a business 
man  than  either  you  or  me,  and  has  far  more  gumption, 
and  will  do  the  right  thing  for  a man  whose  heart  is  in 
the  right  place,  although  his  correspondence  is  terribly 
mixed  up  with  flittings. 

‘What  ill-fortune  we  had,  not  to  meet!  I am  sure 

' This  refers  to  a special  photograph  of  Chalmers  which  Steven- 
son had  desired  to  possess,  and  which  had  been  sent  to  him  at 
Chalmers'  request  by  a friend  in  England. 


3s8  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

I missed  you  at  last  by  a narrow  margin.  My  hunt  for 
you  while  I was  in  Sydney  brought  me  in  a very  funny 

predicament.  I was  told  there  was  a Mr. from 

New  Guinea  in  the  hotel,  and  immediately  collared  him 
for  news  of  your  movements.  My  reception  was  so 

strange,  that  I withdrew.  Presently  comes  Mr.  to 

say  he  had  not  caught  my  name.  I said  that  made  it 
the  worse,  and  I had  no  desire  to  enjoy  the  acquaintance 
of  any  one  who  could  be  so  rude  to  a stranger.  Then 
he  said  it  was  your  name  that  made  the  trouble.  All 
the  more  reason  that  we  should  separate,  said  I. 
Chalmers  is  a friend  of  mine.  And  then,  I am  bound  to 

say, made  rather  a favourable  impression  on  me ; 

said  he  had  had  all  kinds  of  rows  with  you  ; admitted  you 
had  cause  of  complaint,  from  your  point  of  view,  I think, 
he  said,  but  must  not  prejudice  the  man  from  memory. 
Made  no  complaint  himself,  said  that  his  difference  with 
you  had  brought  him  many  disagreeable  interviews,  and 
he  thought  mine  was  another,  &c. ; and  I came  to  a sort 
of  armed  peace  with  him.  I know  it’s  no  use  asking 
you  what  the  trouble  was ; but  I still  cherish  the  hope 
this  may  go  on  to  Tamate  Vaine,  and  she  may 
answer  me. 

‘ My  dear  Tamate,  I wish  I could  go  with  this  letter ; 
but  it’s  no  good  talking.  All  I can  say  is,  my  most 
sincere  affection  goes ; and  when  you  have  done  your 
day’s  duty,  may  we  both  live  to  meet  and  have  a crack 
in  the  evening.  I wish  there  were  more  like  you. 
You  are  the  man  for  my  complaint : you  do  me  good : 
I wonder  if  I am  of  any  use  } None,  I fear,  or  so  little. 
Well,  you  have  been  of  use  to  me. 

‘ The  house,  as  I have  said,  is  inhabited  and  pretty 
habitable.  By  desperate  efforts  we  got  a room  ready 
against  my  mother’s  arrival ; and  a sort  of  a rough 


Letters  from  R.  L.  Stevenson 


359 


sketch  of  a dining’-room  to  live  in ; it  nearly  murdered 
my  wife,  but  it  was  done,  and  the  old  lady  arrived 
looking  as  bright  as  a dollar,  and  about  as  young  as 
my  battered  self,  to  find  a tabernacle  and  her  husband’s 
portrait  over  the  chimney.  It  nearly  murdered  my 
wife,  I say ; and  that  is  why  you  hear  from  me  only ; 
she  had  meant  to  write,  but  has  been  in  bed  all  day, 
sick  and  faint,  and  a pure  wreck,  and  I doubt  if  she 
will  be  fit  to  wag  a pen  before  Captain  Turpie  heaves 
anchor.  ^ 

‘ I wish  you  from  my  heart  good  strength,  good  spirits, 
a good  courage,  and  a blessing  on  your  endeavours. 
Go  on,  my  dear  man,  in  God’s  name,  the  right  man 
in  the  right  place,  and  may  you  see  the  reward  of 
your  success. 

* Your  sincere  friend, 

‘Robert  Louis  Stevenson,’ 

Mr.  Graham  Balfour  has  also  kindly  supplied  from 
Stevenson’s  letters  in  his  possession  two  characteristic 
extracts  bearing  upon  this  episode. 

Writing  to  his  mother  in  September,  1890,*  s.s.  Ltibeck, 
between  Sydney  and  Tongatabu,  three  days  out,’  he 
remarks,  ‘ We  have  a very  interesting  party  on  board, 
three  missionaries  and  their  wives : Messrs.  Chalmers 
and  Hunt  of  the  London  Society  and  Mr.  Brown  of 
the  Wesleyans.  Chalmers  and  Brown  are  pioneer  mis- 
sionaries, splendid  men,  with  no  humbug,  plenty  courage, 
and  the  love  of  adventure ; Brown,  the  man  who  fought 
a battle  with  cannibals  at  New  Britain,  and  was  so 
squalled  over  by  Exeter  Hall ; Chalmers,  a friend  of 
Mrs.  Hannah  Swan’s.  ...  I have  become  a terrible 
missionaryite  of  late  days ; very  much  interested  in 
their  work,  errors,  and  merits : perhaps  it’s  in  the 


360  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

blood,  though  it  has  been  a little  slow  of  coming  out. 
No,  to  be  sure,  I am  wrong:  I remember  I always 
liked  the  type.  Chalmers,  a big,  stout,  wlldlsh-looking 
man,  iron  grey,  with  big  bold  black  eyes,  and  a deep 
straight  furrow  down  each  cheek : aetat,  forty  to  forty- 
five.’ 

Writing  to  his  mother  from  Valllma  in  October  or 
November,  1890,  he  speaks  of  going  to  Auckland. 
‘ I want  to  see  Sir  George  Grey.  I shall  meet  Tamate 
once  more  before  he  disappears  up  the  Fly  River, 
perhaps  to  be  one  of  “the  unreturning  brave” — and 
I have  a cultus  for  Tamate ; he  is  a man  nobody  can 
see,  and  not  love.  Did  I tell  you  I took  the  chair  at 
his  missionary  lecture  ; by  his  own  choice  ? I thought 
you  would  like  that ; and  I was  proud  to  be  at  his  side 
even  for  so  long.  He  has  plenty  faults  like  the  rest 
of  us  ; but  he’s  as  big  as  a church.  I am  really  highly 
miionari  now,  like  3’our  true  son.’ 

Robert  Louis  Stevenson  is  the  most  striking  example 
of  a literary  man  of  high  class,  coming  into  close 
contact  with  missionary  work  and  workers  in  one  of 
the  great  modern  fields.  He  saw  this  work,  as  he 
himself  tells  us,  at  first  with  unsympathetic  eyes.  But 
he  did  what  no  other  man  of  his  training  and  stand- 
ing has  done  in  this  generation.  He  came  to  know 
missionary  work  not  in  the  superficial  and  often  super- 
cilious manner  of  the  globe-trotter  and  of  some  govern- 
ment officials.  He  learned  its  true  nature  through 
living  among  Samoans  who  had  been  trained  under 
missionary  influence ; b^'  watching  their  daily  life ; by 
the  knowledge  he  gained  of  their  language  and  modes 
of  thought  and  aims  in  life.  He  was  strong  enough 
to  lay  aside  his  prejudices,  and  to  number  among  his 
intimate  friends  several  of  those  missionaries  at  whom 


Stevenson's  Witness  for  Missions  361 

occasionally  Cabinet  ministers  gird,  and  whose  advice 
diplomats  seldom  seek.  He  looked  beneath  the  surface, 
he  saw  missionaries  and  missionary  work  as  they  are, 
and  not  as  the  modern  pagan  liiterafeur  often  imagines 
them  to  be.  Thus  to  large  numbers  of  Christian  people 
the  most  interesting  references  in  his  life  and  in  his 
letters  are  those  which  have  to  do  with  his  attitude 
towards  the  Christian  life  and  towards  missions.  In 
Sydney  in  1893,  to  a gathering  of  missionary  workers 
and  helpers  in  that  city,  Stevenson  gave  an  address 
which  may  be  commended  to  those  who  can  see  nothing 
more  than  ‘ rice  Christians  ’ in  the  Chinese  who  died 
by  thousands  rather  than  deny  the  Saviour  whom  they 
loved  ; in  the  Hindus  who,  under  the  light  of  the  Gospel, 
submit  to  all  the  suffering  involved  in  breaking  caste ; 
or  in  the  Polynesians  who  forsake  idolatry,  and  who 
are  slowly  but  surely  rising  to  higher  levels  of  life 
under  the  teaching  of  the  New  Testament.  ‘ I had 
conceived  a great  prejudice  against  missions  in  the 
South  Seas,  and  had  no  sooner  come  there  than  that 
prejudice  was  at  first  reduced,  and  then  at  last  an- 
nihilated. Those  who  deblaterate  against  missions 
have  only  one  thing  to  do,  to  come  and  see  them  on 
the  spot.  They  will  see  a great  deal  of  good  done ; 
they  will  see  a race  being  forwarded  in  many  different 
directions,  and  I believe,  if  they  be  honest  persons, 
they  will  cease  to  complain  of  mission  work  and  its 
effects 

Chalmers  was  greatly  pleased  with  his  visit  to  Malua. 
He  aroused  there  immense  enthusiasm  for  mission  work 
in  New  Guinea.  He  rejoiced  to  know  that  many  of 
them  would  become  his  helpers  in  the  Fly  River  Mission. 
Summing  up  his  impressions  at  this  time,  he  wrote; — 

^ Life,  ii.  193. 


362  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

‘ I am  glad  to  feel  the  Samoan  church,  as  seen  from 
pastors  and  college,  is  a living  one,  and  holds  firmly  to 
Christ  notwithstanding  the  many  storms.  We  have 
been  greatly  blessed  and  refreshed,  and  I trust  mission- 
aries, pastors,  students,  and  churches  will  be  as  greatly. 
I have  asked  for  six  teachers  now  and  a constant 
supply  to  follow,  and  I am  confident  both  will  be 
forthcoming.’ 

During  Tamate’s  intercourse  with  the  native  pastors 
and  students  at  Malua  he  allowed  them  to  question  him 
freely.  He  sent  home  a representative  list  of  the  ques- 
tions asked  him.  From  them  some  notion  may  be 
formed  of  the  intellectual  and  religious  development  of 
these  students,  all  of  whose  ancestors,  only  a generation 
or  two  since,  were  fierce  and  degraded  heathen.  Here 
is  a portion  of  the  list  he  sent  home ; — 

‘ I.  What  is  the  root  of  the  difficulties  In  the  work? 

‘ 2.  What  is  the  best  method  of  winning  the  New 
Guineans  to  Christ  ? 

‘ 3.  Are  they  as  tribes  in  customs  and  physique 
alike  ? 

‘ 4.  Are  those  who  come  as  candidates  clothed  or 
unclothed,  and  are  they  exhorted  to  be  clothed  ? 

‘ 5.  Are  the  people  much  scattered,  or  do  they  Hve  in 
large  villages  ? 

‘ 6.  Which  Is  the  part  of  New  Guinea  for  Samoa,  and 
the  teachers  who  leave  next  where  will  they  go  ? 

‘ 7.  How  many  Samoans  do  you  wish  for  now  ? 

‘ 8.  Is  the  language  difficult  to  acquire  ? and  give 
examples. 

‘ 9.  Are  there  many  foreigners,  are  there  stores  ? 

‘ 10.  What  about  Romanists  and  others,  have  they  got 
to  New  Guinea  ? 

‘ 1 1.  What  are  the  New  Guinea  students  taught  ? 


Questions  by  Samoan  Students  363 

* 12.  What  about  German  New  Guinea,  and  are  there 
missionaries  there  ? 

‘13.  Where  did  the  first  missionaries  come  from  ? 

‘ 14.  What  about  Romanists  in  days  to  come  when  we 
have  enlightened  the  people  ? 

‘ 1 5.  How  many  missionaries  are  wanted  to  evangelize 
all  New  Guinea  ? 

‘ 16.  Can  long  journeys  be  made  in  New  Guinea? 

‘ 17.  What  do  you  think  about  Mr.  Brown’s  action  in 
New  Britain  ? 

‘ 18.  Do  the  people  of  New  Guinea  poison  others  ? 

‘ 19.  Do  the  animals  of  New  Guinea  dance  like  men  ? 

‘ 20.  What  are  the  occupations  of  the  people  ? 

‘21.  Suppose  I go  to  a place  and  the  people  wish  to 
kill  me,  what  am  I to  do  ? 

‘ 22.  Are  the  islands  of  Torres  Straits  inhabited  ? 

‘ 23.  Is  the  translation  of  the  Bible  complete  ? 

‘ 24,  Are  there  villages  on  mountains  ? 

‘ 25.  Do  you  understand  New  Guinea  fever  ? 

‘ 26.  What  is  the  prevailing  wind  ? 

‘ 27.  What  about  the  snakes  and  crocodiles  ? 

‘ 28.  What  about  the  tailed  and  big-eared  people  ? 

‘ 29.  Why  don’t  you  ask  for  a larger  band  of  men  ? 

‘ 30.  How  many  years  should  we  spend  here  before 
we  go  ? 

‘31.  Will  there  be  an  English  missionary  with  the 
Samoans  ? 

‘ There  were  many  other  questions  asked,  the  above 
were  leading  ones.  They  are  building  a new  public 
hall,  and  Tamate  is  to  open  it  to-night.  Our  vessel  is 
not  in,  though  due,  and  it  is  possible  she  may  be  detained 
by  the  strike.  If  only  we  knew  that  she  was  not  coming 
for  some  weeks  I should  be  off  to  all  the  stations  and 
mountains.  I am  greatly  pleased  with  the  earnest  desire 


364  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

on  the  part  of  tlie  Samoans  for  better  education,  and 
what  is  just  as  real,  the  thorough  aptitude  of  the 
missionaries  to  meet  it.  Newell  is  the  mainspring  of 
this  mission,  and  he  is  quite  abreast  of  all  that  is  needed. 
They  certainly  know  how  to  spend  money  here,  and  as 
the}'  certainly  know  how  to  work.’ 

On  leaving  Samoa  Chalmers  sailed  for  Rarotonga,  the 
island  of  happy  memories  and  of  successful  work.  It 
was  dear  to  his  heart  not  only  because  of  the  blessed 
memories  of  his  early  wedded  life,  and  because  of  the 
love,  and  zeal,  and  toil  he  had  there  thrown  into  the 
duty  placed  upon  him.  But  the  bonds  of  affection  had 
been  strengthened  by  the  fact  that  during  the  thirteen 
years  which  had  passed  since  he  left  it  many  earnest 
and  faithful  native  teachers  had  come  from  its  Institution 
to  co-operate  with  him  in  the  New  Guinea  Mission,  and 
many  of  these,  both  men  and  women,  had  laid  down 
their  lives  in  this  great  enterprise.  It  is  easy,  then,  to 
imagine  the  joy  with  which  he  contemplated  revisiting 
its  scenes  of  beauty. 

‘ On  the  evening  of  September  30  we  left  Samoa, 
wishing  we  could  have  stayed  a few  weeks  longer.  We 
had  a very  pleasant  trip  here,  arriving  on  October  4, 
about  6.30  p.m.  Fancy  travelling  in  the  South  Seas  in 
a splendid  steamer.  The  John  M'illiams  left  Samoa  for 
here  three  weeks  ago,  and  has  not  yet  turned  up. 

‘ October  13.  Yesterday  was  a red-letter  day.  The  native 
services  were  large  and  enthusiastic,  and  the  English 
service  was  also  well  attended.  A great  sorrow  awaited 
us  on  our  arrival  here.  A young  pastor  lay  dead,  to  be 
buried  the  day  after  we  landed.  As  a lad  I taught  him, 
and  afterwards  he  joined  the  college,  and  when  finished 
was  elected  as  pastor  of  the  Avarua  church.  As  a baby 
he  was  adopted  by  Queen  iMakea,  and  brought  up  by 


Arrival  at  Rarotonga  365 

her.  He  was  a ver)'-  loving,  thoughtful  laddie,  and  we 
all  loved  him.  In  coming  along  I often  thought  of  him, 
and  hoped  to  have  many  pleasant  meetings  with  him — 
but  not  yet  awhile.  We  anchored  about  six  p.m.,  and  no 
one  expecting  us  we  landed,  and  in  the  dusk  walked  up 
through  the  village.  The  majority  of  the  people  were 
at  Makea’s  to  comfort  her  in  her  great  sorrow.  It  was 
soon  noised  abroad  we  were  coming  along,  and  the 
people  began  rushing  about  looking  for  us.  Guess  the 
excitement  was  great.  Hutchin  hearing  came  on,  and 
together  we  walked  to  her  Majesty’s.  She  is  changing 
much.  We  stayed  there  a short  time,  and  then  up 
to  the  old  place,  the  mission  house.  On  Sunday 
I preached,  baptized,  administered  the  ordinance,  and 
helped  to  bury  the  dead,  and  in  the  afternoon  took 
another  service.  ^ 

‘ During  the  week  we  went  to  Ngatangiia,  Matavera, 
and  Arorangi.  All  is  changed,  we  travel  in  buggies 
now.  When  at  Matavera  the  people  insisted  on  our 
staying  that  they  might  give  us  a present,  and  so  be 
the  first  to  do  it.  It  is  the  smallest  of  the  villages  but 
the  most  pronounced  in  wickedness  and  kindness,  and 
ever  determined  to  go  contrary  to  chiefs  and  laws. 
There  is  a good  teacher,  and  I was  glad  to  meet  several 
who,  when  I left  many  years  ago,  were  a wild,  godless 
lot,  but  now  are  changed  and  members  of  the  church. 
A few  months  ago  Isaia  died  at  Arorangi.  He  was 
teacher  there  for  nearly  thirty  years.  He  was  son  of  the 
first  teacher  landed  on  Rarotonga  ^ ; father  and  mother 

^ This  was  Papeiha,  the  man  who  accompanied  John  Williams 
in  1823,  and  who,  taking  his  life  in  his  hand,  landed  alone  on 
Rarotonga,  lived  there  alone  for  four  months,  and  was  largely 
instrumental  in  converting  the  island  to  Christianity.  See  my 
History  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  vol.  i.  pp.  261,  275, 
276. 


S66  Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 

will  remember  him  as  being-  in  England  with  William 
GilL  He  was  a good  man,  and  did  good  sen-ice.  He 
has  a son  in  the  college  preparing  for  the  work.  The 
changes  amongst  the  people  are  ven,'  great,  many, 
many  are  dead,  and  what  I am  sorr\-  to  see  is  so  many 
youngish  people.  There  are  a few  vert-  old  folks  left — 
two  or  three  about  ninety.  The  white  man’s  spirit 
and  clothing  are  doing  havoc. 

‘ To-morrow  I am  informed  is  to  be  a great  day  here 
— presents  for  Tamate  and  wife.  In  the  afternoon  after 
fun  is  over  we  go  to  Xgatangiia  for  meetings,  and  then 
back  on  Saturday  or  l\Ionday  to  go  round  the  group. 

‘ I do  wish  3-0U  could  see  this  island  ; it  is  the  loveliest 
in  all  the  South  Pacific.  If  ever  I grow  old,  and  should 
have  to  retire,  I think  I should  come  here.  This 
climate  is,  I believe,  perfect.  I wish  Stevenson  had 
come  here,  it  would  be  better  for  him  than  Samoa.’ 

To  Mrs.  Chalmers  also,  this  visit  -was  full  of  tender 
associations.  The  first  ^Irs.  Chalmers  had  been  the 
friend  of  her  girlhood.  She  herself  had  intended 
to  take  part  in  the  work.  In  a letter  written  under 
the  spell  of  first  impressions  she  enables  us  to  realize 
the  welcome  his  old  friends  gave  to  Tamate,  and  to  her 
for  his  sake. 

‘Avarua,  Rarotonga,  October  ii,  1890. 

‘ Doesn’t  it  seem  strange  to  you  that  I should  be 
writing  to  you  from  this  place?  Here  I sit  in  dear 
Jeanie’s  old  parlour  which  she  described  to  me  so  long 
ago.  It  is  all  just  lovely.  Tamate  felt  it  much  returning 
to  the  old  home,  where  so  many  happy  years  had  been 
spent.  Never  shall  I forget  the  reception.  The  Consul 
came  on  board  the  steamer  and  lent  us  his  boat  to  go 
ashore  and  take  our  luggage.  The  crew  shouted  to 
some  one  ashore,  “ Tamate,  Tamate  Vaine.”  Directly 


367 


Reception  at  Raratonga 

we  saw  a commotion,  and  first  some  women  hurried  to 
meet  us.  All  through  the  town  the  crowd  gathered  until 
we  met  Mr.  Hutchin,  the  missionary,  followed  by  a large 
number  of  old  and  young.  Two  women  who  had  hved 
with  Jeanie  as  girls  took  possession  of  me,  and  at  the 
head  of  the  crowd  we  marched.  At  every  house  people 
came  out  to  join  us,  many  old  people  embracing  us,  some 
throwing  themselves  at  Tamate’s  feet,  embracing  them 
with  tears  rolling  down  their  poor  old  faces,  saying  they 
had  never  thought  to  look  upon  his  face  again  on  earth. 
These  people  seem  to  worship  him,  and  even  the  little 
ones  know  all  about  Tamate,  his  name  is  a household 
word.  There  never  has  been  and  never  will  be  anybody 
like  him  to  them.  Poor  Tamate  was  quite  overcome  at 
times.  His  memory  is  wonderful ; he  remembered  their 
names,  and  could  inquire  after  the  various  families. 
Younger  men  and  women  who  had  been  his  scholars 
were  delighted  when  he  said,  “ Why,  you  must  be  so 
and  so’s  son  or  daughter.” 

‘ We  were  met  by  sad  news  on  the  beach — Makea’s 
(the  Queen’s)  adopted  son  was  dead,  and  to  be  buried  the 
next  day.  She  was  in  great  trouble.  We  went  to  her 
residence  first,  the  crowd  followed.  The  house  is  hand- 
some : two  storeys,  verandah,  a balcony  above,  and 
furnished  in  European  style.  There  is  an  avenue  of 
trees  from  the  gate  to  the  front  entrance.  As  we 
approached,  the  Queen  and  her  women  came  out  of  one 
of  the  French  doors  and  met  Tamate  at  the  head  of  the 
steps.  She  put  her  arms  round  him  and  kissed  him, 
then  keeping  her  hand  on  his  shoulder  put  him  back, 
and  examined  his  face ; with  tears  in  her  eyes  she  spoke 
a few  words.  Tamate  did  not  speak,  but  drew  me  for- 
ward and  put  my  hand  in  hers,  and  she  kissed  me  and 
introduced  her  husband.  He  took  my  hand  and  led  me 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


568 

into  a nice  large  drawing-room.  It  was  dusk,  and  the 
servants  brought  in  lamps,  so  now  we  could  see  each 
other  distincdy.  There  were  two  couches  and  several 
easy -chairs,  a table  in  the  centre  and  side -tables,  also 
pictures,  two  French  windows  opening  at  the  verandah. 
Tamate  was  put  in  an  armchair  facing  the  doors,  the 
Queen  and  I on  one  couch,  the  other  two  gentlemen 
on  the  opposite  couch,  and  the  Prince  Consort  next 
Tamate.  Then  the  room  filled  as  well  as  the  verandah. 
One  poor  old  lady  turned  eight}-  forced  her  way  through, 
sobbing  and  crt  ing,  threw  herself  at  Tamate 's  feet,  and 
clasping  his  legs  would  not  leave  him  for  some  minutes. 
Tamate ’s  heart  was  fuT  I said,  “ Do  say  something  to 
them.”  He  got  up,  then  sat  down  again,  saying, 
“ I cannot.” 

‘!Mr.  Smith,  Mr.  Hutchin,  and  myself  went  up  the 
drive  past  the  churchyard,  and  into  the  mission  grounds. 
It  is  a paradise  for  position.  I don’t  know  hew  they 
made  up  their  minds  to  leave  this  most  lovely  spot. 
Tamate  had  gone  to  the  p’lace  where  the  poor  young 
man  was  lying  in  state.  He  would  not  allow  me  to  go. 
"When  I heard  Tamate's  voice,  I met  him  on  the  verandah. 
I knew  he  must  feel  sad  entering  his  own  old  home. 
It  is  a grand  house  built  of  coral,  the  walls  two  feet  thick 
and  plastered  with  lime  and  cement.  The  house  stands 
a little  way  up  the  mountain  side,  there  are  flights  of 
wide  stone  step>s,  and  the  ground  is  laid  out  in  terraces 
in  front.  At  the  back  a piece  has  been  dug  away  and 
made  level  about  thirty  feet  in  width,  and  the  mountain 
rises  precipitately,  clothed  to  the  summit  with  trees  and 
bush,  oranges  in  abundance,  most  delicious  when  they 
are  fresh  from  the  trees,  cocoa-nuts  and  many  O'Jier 
kinds  of  finit.  ’ 

At  the  close  of  his  visit  to  his  old  home  and  his  well- 


Condition  of  Rarotonga  369 

remembered  and  deeply  loved  flock,  Chalmers  summed 
up  his  impressions  of  Rarotonga  and  its  prospects  in 
a letter  to  one  of  his  friends  at  home  deeply  interested 
in  mission  work : — 

‘Rarotonga,  November  ‘i,  1890. 

‘ I must  write  you  a wee  letter  from  this  old  homeland 
of  ours.  Thirteen  years  and  a half  since  we  left  it,  and 
what  changes!  The  enemy  has  been  busy,  and  many, 
very  many  faces  are  not.  The  people  were  glad  to  see 
us,  and  aU  gave  us  a right  good  welcome,  so  that  we 
found  the  affection  and  kindness  still  remain. 

‘ We  have  had  right  good  missionary  meetings  here, 
and  I have  visited  other  islands,  viz.  Mangaia,  Atiu,  and 
Aitutaki,  and  at  these  we  had  enthusiastic  meetings. 
Our  visit,  we  pray,  being  blessed  to  us,  may  be  abun- 
dantly blessed  to  all  the  people,  and  that  the  blessing 
through  them  may  extend  to  New  Guinea.  They  are  all 
very  anxious  we  should  remain  with  them,  but  I cannot 
consent  now.  I have  undertaken  the  Fly  River  work, 
and  shall  continue  it  for  some  years.  When  old,  this 
would  make  a good  resort.  The  climate  is  perfect,  and 
the  scenery  a lovely  picture. 

‘Isn’t  it  sad  that  a people  so  free,  kind,  and  truly 
attractive  should  be  dying  out?  Strong  drink  is  a 
fearful  agent,  but  it  cannot  alone  be  blamed  for  the 
sad  decrease.  I blame  clothing,  change  in  housing,  and 
introduction  of  foreign  food  as  much  as  strong  drink. 
I feel  persuaded  that  were  these  natives  to  return  to  the  i 
manner  of  living  of  their  forefathers  they  would  again 
increase.  The  introduced  changes  are  too  great.  How 
pleased  you  would  be  with  their  pretty  churches,  the 
work  all  done  by  themselves.  They  build  or  repair 
their  own  schools  and  churches,  and  pay  their  own 
pastors. 


370 


Life  and  Work  at  Motumotu 


‘ They  are  a people  easily  led,  and  with  a thoroughly 
religious  nature.  Their  one  great  failing  is  drink,  but 
from  it  many  have  been  saved  and  are  leading  true  lives. 
We  want  a Maine  liquor  law,  worked  by  a thoroughly 
honest  white  man.  The  chiefs  are  not  able  to  contend 
against  the  whites,  and  although  anxious  to  stop  drink, 
cannot.  They  feel  like  Khama,  and  plead  like  him, 
that  the  fearful  curse  of  drink  may  be  stopped.’ 

The  following  extracts  from  the  correspondence  of 
this  time  enable  us  to  accompany  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers 
on  their  return  journey  to  IMotumotu : — 

‘ Auckland,  yawKcrj  20,  1891. 

‘ I have  addressed  fifteen  meetings  in  ten  days ; last 
Sunday  I had  four  services.  We  leave  on  Thursday 
for  Wellington,  thence  Lyttleton,  Christchurch,  Timaru, 
Oamaru,  Dunedin.’ 

‘Melbourne,  April  27,  1891. 

‘ Here  we  are  on  our  way  north.  I find  it  very  diflScult 
to  move  on.  We  were  a fortnight  in  Tasmania,  but  they 
pressed  hard  for  a month.  Could  not  be  done.  We  got 
over  in  Tasmania  for  steamer,  and  aU  independent 
of  churches.’ 

‘Near  Keppel  Bay,  May  17,  1891. 

‘ Since  July  I have  only  been  idle  two  Sundays, 
that  is,  on  each  of  these  Sundays  I had  only  one  address. 
Last  Saturday  night  I addressed  young  men  in  Sydney, 
and  on  Sunday  evening  had  a splendid  meeting  of  men.’ 
Chalmers  returned  to  Toaripi  with  the  knowledge 
that  his  main  work  was  now  to  lie  elsewhere.  This 
having  been  decided,  it  was  his  nature  to  be  restless 
until  the  change  of  field  had  been  effected. 


CHAPTER  X 


THE  FLY  RIVER,  1892-1894 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers  reached  Port  Moresby  in 
May,  1891.  ‘ Since  our  return  to  New  Guinea,’  he  writes, 
‘we  have  had  a varied  experience.  After  our  arrival 
we  remained  at  Port  Moresby  until  the  new  teachers 
came  by  the  John  Williams.  There  were  twenty  in  all, 
viz.  two  young  women  from  Mangaia  to  be  married  to 
teachers ; five  teachers  and  their  wives  from  Rarotonga  ; 
five  teachers,  four  with  their  wives,  one  left  his  wife  at 
home,  from  Samoa ; and  two  teachers  and  wives  from 
Niue.  There  was  also  one  old  teacher  returning  from 
Samoa  with  his  newly  married  wife.  We  all  had  a right 
good  refreshing  time  during  the  week  we  spent  together. 
They  were  a very  fine  body  of  men  and  women,  and 
all  seemed  full  of  real  earnestness. 

‘ In  a week  we  missionaries  had  to  go  to  Kerepunu 
for  our  annual  committee  meeting.  At  the  committee 
meeting  it  was  decided  that  I should  visit  Cooktown,  and 
arrange  for  a vessel  to  visit  our  eastern  stations  during 
the  absence  of  the  Harrier  in  Sydney  for  repairs. 

‘ After  being  a week  away  I returned  to  Port  Moresby. 
We  all  spent  a few  happy  days  together,  and  then  those 
of  us  for  the  west  went  on  board  schooner  and  sailed 
away.’ 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers  left  Port  Moresby  for  Motu- 
A a 2 


372 


The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

motu  on  June  30,  1891,  but  did  not  get  off  their  home 
undl  July  6.  In  her  journal  ^Irs.  Chalmers  describes  the 
tr)'ing  experiences  connected  with  her  landing : — 

‘July  6.  We  left  Delena  on  Saturday  morning. 
There  was  heav)'  sea,  and  the  rolling  about  was  bad. 
\\Tien  fairly  out  of  the  lagoon  we  made  way,  and  in  the 
afternoon  had  a fair  wind  and  spim  along  at  a fine  rate, 
hoping  to  reach  Motumotu  by  nightfall.  It  was  a very 
rough  sea,  and  we  had  to  hold  on  all  the  time  to  some- 
thing. Fortunately  the  wind  was  in  our  favour,  but 
I was  ver}'  sore  and  bruised  with  bumping  about  so 
much.  Before  sunset  we  sighted  the  dear  old  place : 
it  is  dear  to  us,  though  I must  say  it  looks  anything  but 
inviting  as  a place  of  residence  from  the  sea.  A low 
flat  stretch  of  land  with  a grove  of  palms  here  and 
there,  and  not  a bit  of  rising  ground  to  be  seen.  How 
we  hoped  and  longed  to  land ; but  no  use,  there  were 
tremendous  seas,  and  no  boat  could  get  through  such 
a surf.  We  had  to  keep  well  out  and  cast  anchor. 
There  is  no  good  anchorage  here  either.  \Miat  a 
terrible  night  we  had  for  discomfort,  to  be  sure ; the 
ship  swung  a little  and  got  nearly  broadside  on  the 
seas,  and  with  every  roll  she  shipped  a sea  one  side  or 
the  other.  The  men  lashed  me  firmly  to  the  seat,  which 
is  bolted  to  the  companion-way,  and  I just  rolled  with 
the  ship,  feeling  everj'  time  she  went  down  on  my  side 
that  the  great  wall  of  water  must  come  over  us.  I never 
passed  such  a night ; and  there  opposite  was  our  own 
home,  and  ever}'  time  the  ship  came  right  side  up 
I caught  a glimpse  of  the  lantern  which  our  people 
kept  on  the  flagstaff.  Of  course  no  one  slept.  Tamate 
and  Savage  stayed  down  below.  They  could  not  stand 
on  deck,  and  they  could  not  keep  in  the  berths  either. 
Tamate  struggled  up  and  peeped  over  at  me  two  or 


A Terrible  Night  373 

three  times,  I was  fast  enough,  but  could  only  move 
with  the  ship. 

‘ Next  morning  (Sunday)  the  two  boats  left  the  river 
before  daybreak,  but  it  was  6,40  a.m.  before  they  got 
round  to  us.  Then  the  difficulty  was  to  get  into  them. 
Tamate  thought  it  would  be  impossible  for  me  to 
manage  it.  No  ladder  could  be  put  out,  and  the  boat 
rose  and  fell  to  a great  height  and  depth.  Of  course 
I was  anxious  to  land,  and  did  not  want  to  wait,  no 
one  knew  how  long,  for  the  sea  to  behave  better.  Our 
students  were  in  the  boat,  and  I said  to  Naimi  and  Ola, 
“ Stand  ready  to  catch  hold  of  me,  boys,  and  when  she 
rises  again  I’ll  spring.”  Tamate  said,  “ That’s  the  only 
way,  but  I’m  afraid  you  won’t  do  it  in  time  ” ; but  as  he 
finished  speaking  I landed  safely  in  the  boat,  feeling 
rather  shaky  and  dizzy.  By-and-by  our  boat  got  off 
with  twenty  on  board.  The  swell  was  heavy,  and  it 
was  provoking  to  be  opposite  our  house  and  yet  have 
to  go  miles  away  from  it  and  into  the  river.  The  boys 
managed  splendidly,  and  we  only  shipped  one  sea  cross- 
ing the  bar.  I was  very  sore,  and  sick  too,  for  want 
of  something  to  eat,  for  we  did  not  stay  for  breakfast 
or  anything  on  board. 

‘ What  a crowd  to  meet  us  ! the  river  bank  was  lined. 
Our  house  boys  were  all  out  at  the  very  end  of  the 
sandspit,  and  ran  on  the  bank  alongside  us  to  the 
landing-place,  and  the  dogs  swam  in  to  meet  the  boat. 
All  the  teachers  were  there — the  girls  and  their 
blessed  babies  ah.  looking  bright  and  happy,  and  so 
glad  to  see  me  especially,  for  none  of  them  expected 
to  see  me  again  when  I left.  Truly  it  was  a home- 
coming, and  one  to  be  thankful  for  in  every  way.’ 

On  July  10  Chalmers  left  Toaripi  in  the  Harrier  for 
Cooktown. 


374 


The  F.y  River^  1892-1894 

‘ On  the  Frida}’-  morning-  I went  on  board  of  the 
Harrier,  and  with  a light  wind  we  did  not  arrive  at  Port 
jMoresby  until  the  IMonday.  There  we  had  the  sad  news 
that  death  had  already  been  busy  with  our  new  band  of 
teachers.  Of  the  four  men  and  women  from  Niue  or 
Savage  Island,  one  man  and  woman  were  dead,  and  of 
those  from  Samoa,  one  man  and  woman  had  also  died. 
’Tis  well  for  us  the  Master  knows  best  what  to  do  with 
His  servants.  It  was  a terrible  blow  to  us  all ; but  far 
worse  to  the  remaining  new  teachers.  On  Saturday  we 
left  for  Cooktown. 

‘ We  called  in  at  Kerepunu,  and  then  we  crossed  the 
Coral  Sea,  having  veiy  dirty  weather  all  the  way  over. 

‘ On  Thursday,  at  three  p.m.,  we  entered  Cook’s 
Opening  of  the  Barrier  Reef,  and  began  beating  down, 
hoping  to  be  in  Cooktown  the  following  morning.  No 
such  good  luck,  the  stormy  night  was  against  us.  All  day 
Friday  we  kept  at  it,  carrying  away  several  head  sails  and 
forward  stays,  and  had  to  anchor  under  Three  Islands  to 
repair  damage.  About  four  p.m,,  up  anchor  and  again 
started  pile-driving  against  a hea^y  sea.  It  is  not  often  so 
hea-vy  a sea  is  met  with  inside  the  Barrier.  At  eight  p.m. 
we  rounded  ship  and  stood  away  on  the  starboard  tack, 
expecting  when  we  again  went  about  we  should  fetch 
Cooktown.  Several  of  our  sailors,  including  our  captain, 
have  their  wives  there,  and  some  of  these  were  singing 
“ Homeward  bound.”  The  night  was  wet  and  dirty,  and 
wind  and  sea  very  high.  Some  time  before  nine  I turned 
into  my  bunk,  A passenger  we  had  on  board  got  to 
his  before  me.  I was  nearing  the  land  of  unconscious- 
ness, and  fancied  I was  dreaming  of  rocks — hallo ! 
a grate ! a bound ! a bump ! I was  up,  on  coat  and 
on  deck.  It  was  9.15.  All  hands  were  on  deck,  head 
sails  were  soon  off  her,  followed  by  mainsail,  a boat  with 


Wreck  of  the  Harrier 


375 


a kedge  anchor  sent  away.  The  hedge  was  dropped  In 
five  fathoms  of  water,  and  the  hawser  made  fast  to  the 
windlass  on  the  port  side.  A long  steady,  heavy,  near 
breaking  heave ; but  no  use,  she  was  fast.  When  the  tide 
went  out  she  was  on  her  bilge  and  very  uncomfortable. 

‘ On  Saturday,  July  25,  we  were  getting  ballast  on 
deck  ready  to  throw  overboard  if  she  righted  with  the 
night  tide.  The  kedge  was  sent  out  right  astern,  and 
the  hawser  passed  in  over  the  starboard  quarter  and  on 
the  windlass,  to  be  ready  for  another  attempt.  Signals 
of  distress  were  flying  all  day  and  that  night ; hoping 
we  might  be  seen  from  Cooktown,  we  fired  rockets, 
blue  lights  and  tow  soaked  with  kerosene.  We  were 
not  seen.  At  10.30  ship  righted,  and  overboard  went 
the  ballast  placed  on  deck,  and  then  aU  hands  to  wind- 
lass. No  use,  she  had  no  go-off  movement  in  her.  She 
had  been  making  water,  but  the  pumps  kept  her  dry. 
Wind  and  sea  now  increased,  grating  and  bumping 
worse  than  ever,  and  now  hopes  of  saving  her  were 
lessened. 

‘ On  Sunday  morning  there  was  a fearful  sea  breaking 
on  her  starboard  quarter,  the  pumps  no  longer  were 
of  any  use,  and  the  deck  on  the  port  side  was  beginning 
to  rise.  The  sea  was  flowing  in  and  out ; she  was  leaning 
much  more  over  on  her  side,  and  it  was  evident  some- 
thing must  be  done  to  prevent  her,  if  possible,  going 
over  altogether.  It  was  sad,  but  necessary,  and  instruc- 
tions were  given  to.  cut  away  masts.  The  lee  sides  of 
the  masts  were  cut,  and  then  the  port  rigging,  all  stays, 
and  finally  the  starboard  rigging— a big  sea,  a fearful 
bump,  and  away  went  the  sticks ; she  laboured  easier. 
There  seemed  to  be  no  chance  of  our  being  seen  by 
passing  vessels,  so  the  whaleboat  was  got  ready  to  go 
to  Three  Islands,  and  there  try  and  intercept  a vessel. 


376 


The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

The  prospect  on  board  the  wreck  was  not  inspiring,  but 
that  of  going  in  a gale  of  wind  and  a hea\y  sea  running 
uus  much  less  so.  There  were  three  teachers  on  board, 
going  to  Cooktown  for  change,  and  !Mr.  George  Belford, 
so  well  known  as  accompanying  our  governor  in  many 
of  his  expeditions.  Belford  did  splendid  service  from 
the  striking  on  the  reef  until  leaving. 

‘ The  whaleboat  was  got  up  under  the  jibboom,  and 
in  charge  of  the  second  mate,  Mr.  MacdougaU,  of  Storno- 
way, was  well  managed.  A few  provisions  and  a few 
things  belonging  to  the  passengers  and  crew  dropped 
into  her,  then  we  followed,  just  holding  on  to  a rope 
to  be  ready  when  she  rose  to  let  go.  MTien  leaving, 
I saw  a sailor  emerge  from  the  hold,  and  I said  to  him, 
“ M’hat  are  you  up  to  ? ” He  yelled,  “ Looking  for  the 
poor  old  cat,  sir,  we  must  save  him  if  we  can  ” ; and 
Tom  was  also  thrown  into  the  boat.  We  had  a young 
cockatoo  also  on  board,  and  that  one  of  the  sailors  got 
hold  of  and  dropped  with  it  into  the  boat. 

‘M'e  were  eleven  all  told,  and,  with  provisions  and 
effects,  far  too  hea^y.  We  got  over  the  reef  to  leeward, 
and  stood  away  under  reefed  mainsail.  They  were  to 
those  who  knew  the  danger  two  very  anxious  hours. 
MacdougaU  did  splendidly,  and  kept  his  presence  of 
mind  weU.  We  had  to  bale  out  aU  the  way.  We  landed 
on  the  lee  side  of  Three  Islands,  took  possession  of  a 
beche-de-7ner  station,  and  began  our  look-out  for 
passing  ships.  "We  fired  the  grassy  part  of  the  island, 
so  that  it  might  be  seen  by  the  five  we  left  on  board  of 
the  ^vreck,  and  inform  them  that  we  were  safe. 

‘ Some  time  after  we  landed,  a lugger  passed,  but  took 
no  notice  of  us.  Before  sunset  another  vessel,  which 
some  knew  to  be  the  Government  pilot  boat.  Governor 
Cairns,  was  bearing  down,  and  we  hoped  would  come 


Wreck  of  the  Harrier 


377 


near  enough  to  see  us,  but  she  kept  well  in  towards  the 
mainland ; the  sun  set,  and  soon  darkness,  and  we  saw 
no  more  of  her  that  night.  We  burned  two  blue  lights 
and  fired  one  rocket,  and  kept  a large  fire  burning  all 
night.  Soon  after  sunrise  we  saw  a small  vessel  coming 
towards  us  from  the  north,  and  shortly  after  another 
vessel  running  clear  full  for  the  lee  side  of  the  island. 
The  latter  was  the  Governor  Cairns  ; our  signal  the  night 
before  had  been  seen.  By  eight  a.m.  we  were  all  aboard, 
and,  through  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Saville  Kent,  we  were 
enjoying  a good  breakfast.  Mr.  Kent  had  been  out  on 
the  reefs,  and  was  returning  to  Cooktown. 

‘ Captain  Cole,  of  the  Governor  Cairns,  hearing  the 
captain  and  four  others  were  on  the  wreck,  at  once 
weighed  anchor  and  beat  up  towards  the  reef,  under  the 
lee  of  which  we  anchored,  and  soon  had  all  on  board, 
and  by  four  p.m.  were  under  way  for  Cooktown,  where 
we  arrived  at  ii.io  p.m. 

‘ For  some  days  some  of  us  were  stiff  and  sore,  but 
we  are  now  getting  right.  The  sick  teachers  have  had 
fever,  but  are  now  better,  and  I am  glad  to  say  Belford, 
who  is  over  for  his  health,  is  much  better. 

‘ I deeply  sympathize  with  our  good  captain,  to  whom 
no  blame  can  attach,  and  who,  from  the  time  of  striking 
until  leaving  the  wreck,  on  Monday  afternoon,  did  splen- 
didly. He  has  been  a good  servant  of  the  Society.’ 

The  above  is  Chalmers’  official  account  of  his  fourth 
shipwreck.  In  a letter  to  a friend  from  Cooktown  dated 
August  7,  1891,  he  gives  some  of  his  inner  thoughts 
about  his  terrible  experiences ; — 

‘Well,  yes,  been  and  got  wrecked.  Some  of  the 
papers  have  it  that  when  the  Harrier  struck  I called  all 
bands  aft  to  prayer.  Utterly  false.  I believe  in  prayer — 
have  good  reason  to  believe  in  it — but  to  call  all  hands  aft 


378  The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

then  would  not  be  prayer,  but  simple  stupid  fear.  Everj'^ 
one  on  board  u-as  engaged  getting  sails  in,  and  after- 
wards heaving  on  the  hawser.’ 

Chalmers  never  relished  the  task  of  writing  elaborate 
reports  of  his  movements  and  his  doings.  As  a matter 
of  fact,  there  are  a large  number  of  such  reports  in 
existence,  but  over  the  vast  majority  of  them  he  groaned 
and  toiled  unlovingly.  One  influence  only  could  move 
him  to  viTite  with  real  care  and  interest,  and  that  was 
the  hope  and  belief  that  those  who  read  his  words 
would  be  stirred  up  to  show  an  active  interest  in 
the  work  always  nearest  to  his  heart  by  praying  for  it 
and  doing  all  in  their  power  to  help  him  in  its  prosecu- 
tion. Among  Chalmers’  dearest  friends  in  Australia 
were  Mr.  Searle,  of  Kew,  Victoria,  and  his  family.  He 
kept  up  a close  and  intimate  correspondence  with  them, 
and  they  have  kindly  placed  at  the  author’s  disposal 
numerous  extracts  from  Chalmers’  letters.  In  August, 
1891,  at  the  request  of  l\Ir.  Searle,  Chalmers  sent  him 
a letter  to  be  read  to  a class  of  young  men.  As  it  is  the 
best  record  of  his  hfe  at  this  time,  we  quote  a part  of 
it  here : — 

‘ Having  arranged  with  the  well-known  Queensland 
firm.  Burns,  Philp  & Co.,  to  visit  our  eastern  stations 
from  Port  Moresby  once  in  two  months,  I felt  anxious, 
after  the  wreck  of  the  Harrier,  to  get  back  to  Toaripi 
as  soon  as  possible,  but  could  find  no  boat  or  vessel 
suitable.  In  my  extremity  I made  application  to  the 
colonial  treasurer  and  the  port-master  at  Brisbane  to 
have  the  loan  of  the  Cooktown  pilot  schooner.  Governor 
Cairns,  and  it  was  granted ; the  London  Missionary 
Society  to  insure  the  vessel,  put  captain  and  crew  and 
provisions  on  board,  and  take  aU  risk.  In  a fev?  days 
after  getting  the  vessel  we  were  ready  for  sea,  and  soon 


Kindness  of  Queensland  379 

slipped  away  from  the  wharf.  We  had  a fair  wind  and 
good  weather,  and  made  a splendid  passage  across  to 
Port  Moresby.  There  we  found  all  well ; but  not  a bit 
of  news  from  the  west.  I felt  more  anxious  than  ever 
for  those  I had  left,  and  spent  as  little  time  as  possible 
at  Port  Moresby.  When  I had  left  New  Guinea  for 
Cooktown  some  teachers  were  dead,  and  others  were 
ill,  and  I had  left  my  wife  and  several  new  teachers  and 
their  wives  in  the  Gulf  at  a not  over  healthy  place. 
So  naturally  I was  anxious  to  get  back.  Sailing  on 
a Tuesday,  we  were  at  Toaripi  on  Wednesday,  and 
ashore  just  after  dark.  All  were  well.  Tamate  Hahine 
had  had  no  fever,  and  the  new  teachers  and  their  wives, 
although  they  had  been  very  ill,  were  much  better. 
Our  Father  in  Heaven  had  cared  for  all,  and  our  songs 
were  those  of  thanksgiving. 

‘ I feel  deeply  grateful  to  the  Queensland  Government 
for  the  loan  of  the  schooner.  No  rent  has  been  charged. 
The  kind  act  was  for  the  Society,  and  not  for  me 
personally,  and  I hope  the  auxiliaries  in  the  colonies 
will  take  notice  of  it,  and  duly  thank  the  Colonial 
Treasurer  of  Queensland,  Sir  Thomas  M'llwraith,  for 
his  promptness  in  granting  my  request. 

‘ During  my  absence  Mr.  Savage  had  made  arrange- 
ments and  built  houses  at  the  following  places  for  our 
new  teachers,  viz.  Orokolo,  where  two  are  to  be  placed 
who  are  to  be  supported  by  friends  in  Dunedin,  New 
Zealand ; this  is  a very  populous  district,  and  has, 
I think,  the  largest  number  of  children  in  any  district 
I know : at  Vailala,  where  there  is  a village  on  the 
eastern  bank  of  the  Annie  River,  and  another  on  the 
western ; the  latter  has  been  occupied  by  a teacher  for 
more  than  a year,  and  now  there  is  a good  house  in 
the  former  which  a teacher  will  soon  occupy : and  at 


38o 


The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

Kerema,  which  has  an  eastern  and  western  ^•illag•e ; the 
former  already  occupied,  and  now  a house  is  being  built 
in  the  latter,  and  a teacher  is  ready  to  be  placed  there. 

‘ 1 want  3'ou  to  pray,  just  here,  for  these  men  and 
women ; a special  prayer,  that  they  may  soon  know 
the  language,  and  be  made  wise  to  turn  souls,  that 
their  lives  may  be  spared  in  holiness  and  honour  to 
a real  good  old  age,  without  any  looking  back.  I don’t 
Hke  the  looking  back. 

‘ I have  not  been  able  yet  to  visit  the  old  stations,  but 
Mr.  Savage  has  done  so  during  our  absence,  and  he 
reports  good  work  at  some,  whilst  at  others  the  teachers 
are  too  vagrant  for  successful  work. 

‘ At  this  station  the  following  is  our  order  of  work : — 

Classes  axd  Services. 

6 a.m.  sharp.  Bell  rings  for  morning  prayers. 

6.30  to  S a.m.  Bible  class. 

9 to  1 1 a.m.  Boys’  class.  This  frequently  goes  on  to 
twelve. 

3 to  5 p.m.  !Men  and  boys  for  arithmetic  and  writing ; 
women  for  reading  and  seuang. 

5.30  p.m.  Evening  prayers.  These  must  be  in  daylight 

on  Sunday,  MTdnesday,  and  Saturday ; prayer- 
meetings  at  which  all  attend. 

7 p.m.  Evening  sersdce  in  house. 

Sunday. 

6 a.m.  Morning  prayers. 

6.30  a.m.  Ser\aces  in  villages. 

9 am.  Students  and  boys  assemble  in  class-room,  and 
after  prayer  march  to  church. 

1 1 a.m.  Sendee  in  class-room  in  IMotuan,  and  a quarter 
of  an  hour  given  to  catechism  study. 

3.30  p.m.  Assemble  in  class-room,  and  after  prayer 

march  to  sendee  in  village. 


381 


Daily  Routine  at  Toaripi 

5.30  p.ra.  Prayer-meeting. 

Fridays  and  Saturdays  there  are  no  classes,  these  being 
the  days  devoted  by  the  students  to  food-getting. 
From  9 a.m.  to  i p.m.  are  the  “students’  ’’  working  hours. 

‘ Toaripi  has  an  eastern  and  a western  village,  and  each 
has  now  a teacher  who  have  their  daily  work,  teaching 
and  preaching  and  doing  all  the  work  required  to  be 
done  at  a station.  As  everywhere,  the  life  we  live  is 
the  greatest  influence  for  good,  and  far  the  most  telling 
sermon  we  can  preach. 

‘ In  a comparatively  new  station  such  as  this,  where  the 
people  are  just  emerging  from  savagism,  we  have  many 
queer  experiences.  On  my  return  I was  told  that  some 
of  the  natives  in  the  eastern  village  were  rather  trouble- 
some, and  threatening  the  teacher  because  he  claimed 
certain  land  and  cocoa-nuts  for  the  mission,  which  they 
said  belonged  to  them.  These  had  really  been  bought 
by  the  young  teacher  Tauraki,  who  was  murdered  a few 
years  ago  by  the  Moveaveans.  I never  threaten,  and 
I dislike  threatening,  and  always  feel  disagreeable  myself 
when  threatened.  So  yesterday  I finished  my  classes 
earlier,  got  my  cane,  ordered  some  of  our  lads  belonging 
to  the  village  to  accompany  me,  and  with  the  teacher 
went  on  to  the  disputed  ground  near  to  the  cocoa-nuts, 
on  one  of  which  there  was  a tapu. 

‘A  crowd  gathered  and  I ordered  the  boundaries  to  be 
cleared,  and  walked  round,  and  giving  a tomahawk  to 
a youth  ordered  the  tapu  to  be  cut  down.  This  was 
done.  We  then  marked  the  trees  in  dispute,  since 
they  really  belonged  to  the  Society,  and  no  one  inter- 
fered. 

‘ I spoke  a few  words  to  the  point,  and  then  left  for 
the  western  village,  there  to  make  inquiry  for  a dress 
stolen  from  a student’s  wife.  A good  deal  of  feeling 


382  The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

was  shown  at  the  accusation ; but  I wanted  them  to 
know  that  I could  not  let  thieving  pass.  We  did  not 
get  the  dress.  While  I was  waiting  for  evidence  a 
wicked-looking  fellow  with  a tomahawk  came  down 
from  a house  close  by.  I had  my  eye  on  him.  He 
came  near  to  where  I was  sitting,  and  seated  himself 
behind  me.  I pretended  not  to  be  noticing,  but  in 
an  offhand  way  turning  round  I ordered  him  to  move 
to  the  front,  which  he  did.  In  the  morning,  just  after 
breakfast,  I had  to  disarm  of  his  bow  and  arrows  a man 
who  came  into  our  grounds  to  attack  or  frighten  the 
students.  In  the  evening  I sent  for  him,  and  on  return- 
ing his  bow  and  arrows  spoke  firmly  and  kindly  to  him 
and  we  parted  good  friends.  Such  scenes  would  be 
leaves  for  an  autobiography,  but  I dare  not  make  any- 
thing sensational  of  them,  as  I can  see  no  sensation  in 
them. 

‘ I am  anxious  to  visit  all  our  stations  before  going  to 
the  Fly  River.  I feel  sure  you  are  praying  for  us,  and 
I know  we  shall  not  be  forgotten  by  you  in  the  future. 
Do  not  expect  too  much.  Forced  work  is  unhealthy 
and  manufactured  converts  do  not  last  long.  Let  the 
work  grow  with  our  lives,  and  in  God’s  own  good  time 
there  will  be  a temple  worthy  of  His  praise. 

‘ To  us  here  it  is  intensely  interesting  and  strengthening 
to  know  that  so  many  of  you  at  Kew  take  such  interest 
in  Christ’s  work.  We  think  every  Christian  man  and 
woman,  young  and  old,  should  be  one  with  Him  in  that 
which  is  so  dear  to  Him,  the  world’s  salvation.  Let  our 
rallying  cry  then  be,  “ The  world  for  Christ,”  and  for 
that  let  us  ever  strive.  I am  intensely  gratified  with  the 
interest  shown  in  China  and  India,  but  is  there  not  some 
danger  that  the  savages  and  heathen  of  Australia  and 
New  Guinea,  which  really  belong  to  you,  may  be  for- 


Mrs.  Chalmers^  Love  for  Savages  383 

gotten  by  the  churches  of  Australasia  ? To  God  we  are 
responsible  for  those  nearest  to  us.  ’Tis  a fearful  thing 
to  think  of  the  long,  long  time  that  these  poor  savages 
have  been  neglected.  The  devil  has  been  busy  enough, 
whilst  we  have  been  careless.’ 

During  Tamate’s  eventful  voyage  Mrs.  Chalmers  had 
been  left  alone  at  Motumotu.  She  was  a woman  of 
great  spirit  and  energy,  and  devoted  heart  and  soul  to 
the  work.  Her  health  was  far  from  well,  and  the 
burden  resting  upon  her  was  almost  too  heavy  for  any 
woman.  But  she  loved  the  fierce  natives  of  Toaripi 
quite  as  deeply  as  her  husband  did ; she  was  willing  to 
sacrifice  herself  on  their  behalf,  and  she  exerted  all  her 
powers  to  see  that  the  work  of  the  station  was  properly 
attended  to  during  Tamate’s  absence.  It  was  a strain 
few  women  either  could  or  would  have  endured. 
Nothing  but  her  love  for  the  Saviour,  for  her  husband, 
and  for  the  savages  around  her  could  have  carried  her 
through.  But  her  faith  was  strong  and  sustained  her 
hopefully  and  successfully  under  trials  and  disappoint- 
ments and  difficulties  that  would  soon  have  utterly 
crushed  a weak  or  an  unspiritual  woman. 

She  kept  during  the  last  half  of  1892,  and  until  she 
sailed  for  England,  a daily  journal.  It  is  full  of  clear 
and  striking  sketches  of  the  station  routine,  and,  being 
intended  for  none  but  intimate  relatives,  often  reveals 
her  inmost  thoughts  on  life  and  its  trials.  It  is  well 
for  us,  through  such  a medium  as  this,  to  be  enabled 
to  realize  what  the  wives  of  pioneer  missionaries  have  to 
endure.  Chalmers  was  away  on  two  occasions : the  first 
was  this  visit  to  Cooktown  when  the  Harrier  was  lost ; 
the  second  was  a visit  of  inspection  to  the  islands  and 
the  stations  about  the  Fly  River  and  in  Torres  Straits, 
whither  they  were  soon  to  remove. 


384  The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

‘July  10.  Tamate  left  early  this  morning.  They 
had  a fair  wind,  and  were  soon  out  of  sight.  I have 
been  putting  things  straight  in  the  store,  and  going 
over  the  students’  houses. 

‘July  21.  It  has  seemed  a tiresome  day  somehow,  and 
very  wear}'ing.  I could  not  get  the  girls  to  the  washing 
till  late ; and  as  for  the  boys,  they  have  had  their  own 
way  so  long,  and  gone  so  much  to  the  village,  that 
they  are  quite  demoralized  and  do  not  care  to  do  any 
steady  work  at  aU. 

•July  23.  Two  boj-s  away  again  last  night  without 
leave,  and  I determined  to  catch  them.  So  I sat  up 
on  the  verandah  without  a light,  and  between  twelve 
and  one  p.m.  saw  two  dark  forms  stealing  in  through 
the  bananas.  Of  course  I pounced  on  them,  and  we 
had  a small  rumpus.  They  are  little  more  than  savages 
after  all,  poor  boys,  and  don’t  understand  being  under 
any  rules  or  restraint.  They  try  to  take  advantage 
of  me  when  alone,  and  I have  to  be  verj*  spiy,  but 
it  is  ver}'  disheartening  sometimes.  I do  not  know 
how  to  speak  veiy  freel)'  to  them  either.  Still  have 
bad  attacks,  once  or  twice  a day,  and  often  in  the 
night,  but  I think  not  so  severe  as  formerly. 

‘Last  night  I really  thoug’nt  the  house  would  be 
carried  off,  the  furious  waves  seemed  to  break  so  close, 
and  with  every  thundering  crash  the  house  shook. 
I got  up  to  see  if  it  real!)-  had  come  under  the  house ; 
it  was  at  the  gate  and  washing  inside,  the  whole  of 
the  bank  had  gone,  and  for  miles  along  east  and  west, 
and  far  out  to  sea  as  e)*e  could  reach,  was  wild  surf. 
It  certainly  looked  grand  and  brilliantly  white  in  the 
moonlight,  which  shone  fitfully  between  the  great  black 
clouds.  I was  glad  to  pop  back  into  bed,  for,  grand 
as  the  sight  was,  it  made  me  feel  desolate  and  lonely. 


Tamate^s  Return 


385 

I wondered  where  the  Harrier  and  her  precious  pas- 
senger might  be,  for  I had  a very  nasty  creepy  dream 
about  them. 

‘ August  25.  No  time  to  write  since  the  9th,  so  much 
has  happened.  I was  sitting  on  the  back  verandah 
when  I heard  a great  shouting  on  the  river  bank ; soon 
a boy  rushed  in  very  much  excited,  with  a travelling- 
bag  and  a lady’s  satchel,  saying,  “ White  man,  he  come  ; 
Tamate,  he  come.”  It  was  a very  dark  night,  but  look- 
ing round  I caught  sight  of  a slim,  white  figure  flitting 
across  the  raised  platform  from  the  school-house,  and 
it  proved  to  be  Fanny  Baildon  Then  came  my  own 
darling  husband,  followed  by  Harry  Baildon  and  Daun- 
cey.  I felt  altogether  dazed  for  a while.  Getting  them 
into  the  house,  I had  immediately  to  look  after  a sub- 
stantial meal  for  the  whole  party.  Then  what  a tale 
I had  to  hear  of  shipwreck  and  danger!  Tamate  says, 
in  all  his  varied  experience,  he  never  had  such  a boat 
journey  as  that  from  the  wreck  of  the  Harrier  to  the 
island. 

‘ Fanny  and  Harry  were  down  the  coast  at  Cairns,  and 
Tamate  wired  them  to  come  on  and  take  the  chance  of 
going  over  to  New  Guinea.  So  here  they  are  ; but  un- 
fortunately we  have  had  most  wretched  weather,  and  no 
one  remembers  such  a continuance  of  bad  weather  and 
such  dreadful  seas  for  so  long  together.  They  had  only 
four  days  with  us,  which  we  enjoyed  very  much  indeed, 
though  I should  think  two  of  the  party  never  roughed  it 
so  much  in  their  lives,  and  never  wish  to  do  so  again. 

‘August  29.  The  boys  are  really  tiresome,  and  one 
needs  a lot  of  tact  and  patience.  Even  Tamate  finds 
them  diflScult  to  manage,  and  wonders  how  I have  got 
along  alone.  He  has  had  trouble  in  the  village.  One 
^ The  Baildons  were  distant  connexions  of  Mrs.  Chalmers. 

B b 


386  The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

or  two  excitements  which  would  work  up  into  verj’- 
sensational  stories ; but  Tamate  only  laughs,  and  no  one 
could  persuade  him  to  dress  up  and  moralize  about  such 
incidents. 

‘ September  5.  I have  just  paid  mj’  bo}'S,  and  bought 
a quantity  of  food  for  them;  extra  cocoa-nuts  must  be 
got  in,  for  to-morrow  is  Ordinance  Sunday.  Sese\'i  and 
Xaimi’s  wife  both  wish  to  be  baptized,  but  Tamate 
thinks  they  must  wait  a while  longer. 

‘ September  7.  The  people  are  rather  tiresome,  and 
on  the  station  I find  they  have  done  exactl)'  as  they 
liked  out  of  class  hours^  and  are  consequently  inclined 
to  rebel  against  any  kind  of  restraint  and  steady  work. 
Of  course  it  is  wear^-ing  work,  and  a constant  worry’', 
but  it  must  be  done  in  a place  at  this  stage.  They 
must  feel  that  you  are  very’  much  alive,  know  all  that 
is  going  on,  and  will  not  let  any  breach  of  the  rules  pass 
unnoticed.’ 

Mrs.  Chalmers  was  once  again  left  alone  on  the 
station  while  her  husband  was  visiting  distant  stations. 

‘ November  14.  Just  three  weeks  since  I wrote  last. 
I am  onlv  beoinninCT-  to  tvalk  a little.  Tamate  did  not 

••  c>  o 

get  back  until  the  sixth,  and  found  me,  as  he  did  once 
before,  almost  at  death’s  door.  I had  a terrible  fort- 
night alone.  No  one  who  could  get  me  any  medicine 
or  proper  food.  One  day  they  carried  me  into  the 
store  to  the  medicine  shelf,  and  touched  all  the  bottles 
until  I nodded  at  the  aconite  one.  Then  how  to  get  it 
dropped  was  the  question.  I signed  them  to  steady  my 
elbows  until  I dropped  the  quantity.  I was  tenderly 
carried  back  to  bed,  and,  after  the  aconite,  I slept  and 
awoke  feeling  much  less  feverish.  One  of  the  women 
tried  to  make  some  gruel,  but  it  was  all  burnt  to  the 
pan  bottom.  They  baked  some  bread  too,  which 


A Fight  in  a Dubu  387 

could  not  eat — too  heavy.  For  more  than  ten  days 
I just  kept  alive  on  tea,  and  badly  made  barley-water 
with  a little  brandy  in  it.  Of  course  I was  reduced  to 
the  lowest  state,  and  could  not  have  held  out  much 
longer.’ 

In  September,  1892,  Mr,  J,  E.  Liddiard  visited  Chal- 
mers at  Motumotu.  He  enjoyed  the  very  rare  pleasure 
of  seeing  Tamate  at  work  amid  the  surroundings  of  his 
daily  life.  He  has  gladly  supplied  a page  or  two  from 
his  notebook. 

‘ One  night  about  nine  o’clock  there  was  a great  dis- 
turbance in  the  village,  and  we  heard  the  noise  of  many 
loud  and  angry  voices,  and,  as  Tamate  said  he  must  go 
and  see  what  was  the  matter,  I determined  to  accompany 
him.  As  we  pushed  forward  in  the  darkness  many  of 
the  wild  natives  rushed  past  us  with  their  weapons  in 
their  hands,  and  shouting  defiance.  We  made  our  way 
to  the  large  dubu  or  men’s  club-house  in  the  centre  of 
the  village,  and  there  ascertained  that  one  party  wished 
for  a great  dance,  and  another  party  objected  on  account 
of  the  death  of  a native.  This  dubu  had  only  recently 
been  erected.  Its  opening  was  put  off  by  Tamate  from 
time  to  time  until  he  could  obtain  the  promise  that  there 
should  be  no  sacrifice  of  life  in  connexion  with  the  open- 
ing, as  it  has  always  been  considered  necessary  for  the 
dubus  to  be  consecrated  with  blood,  and  that  until  lives 
have  been  sacrificed  it  could  not  be  regarded  as  fit  for 
occupation. 

‘ Having  made  peace  between  the  parties,  we  climbed 
up  the  rough  ladder  to  the  platform  on  the  front  of  the 
dubu.  The  only  lights  in  the  interior  of  this  large 
building  were  given  off  by  the  fires  which  in  several 
places  were  burning  on  clay  hearths,  and  it  was  truly 
a weird  sight  as  the  figures  and  faces  of  the  members  of 

B b 2 


388  The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 


this  club,  with  all  their  strange  decorations,  were  brought 
into  prominence  as  the  light  fell  upon  them. 

‘^^'e  were  well  received,  and  after  a long  talk  we 
gathered  on  the  platform  with  a fire  burning  in  the 
centre,  and  the  natives  crowding  round.  Tamate  then 
offered  pra)"er,  all  reverently  bowing  their  heads  and 
repeating  the  “ amene  ” at  the  close.  Bidding  all  good- 
night we  descended  the  ladder  again,  and,  attended  b)" 
a large  crowd  who  were  waiting  below,  we  returned  to 
the  mission  house. 

‘ I esteem  it  a great  privilege  to  have  been  permitted 
to  see  so  much  of  the  wonderful  island  of  Xew  Guinea 
and  its  people,  and  especially  to  mark  the  changes 
wrought  by  the  Gospel  among  the  savages.  I am  also 
thankful  that  I was  able  to  spend  so  long  a time  with 
Tamate.  It  had  been  a great  pleasure  to  know  him  as 


with  him  in  his  work.  ' Tamate  is  an  ideal  missionaiy  ; 
bright  and  cheery,  brave  and  fearless,  brisk  and  ener- 
getic in  aU  his  movements,  and  intensely  in  earnest. 
Tender,  yet  firm ; as  bold  as  a Hon,  but  as  gentle  as 
a woman ; a real  friend  to  the  natives,  and  untiring  in 
his  efforts  to  do  them  good.  Truly  devout,  j’et 
thorough!)*  practical,  alike  physically,  intellectually,  and 
'tually — a strong  man.’ 


xur.  Liddiard’s  visit  was  closed  by  the  arrival  of  the 
Merrie  England,  which  carried  him  to  Thursday  Island 
on  his  return  journey  to  Australia,  and  carried  off 
Chalmers  for  the  trip,  the  object  of  which  was  to  choose 
his  new  home.  Mrs.  Chalmers  was  again  left  alone, 
and  for  so  long  a time  as  to  arouse  the  active  sympathy 
of  one  of  the  Toaripi  chiefs. 

‘ One  day  I was  laid  on  the  native  couch  whilst  my 
bed  was  being  made.  I heard  some  one  come  gently 


A True  Toaripi  Chief  389 

behind  me,  and  soon  felt  a hand  stroking  my  hair  and 
forehead.  I was  quite  helpless,  and  could  not  turn  to 
see  who  was  there ; but  I soon  found  cut,  for  suddenly 
Lahari’s  voice  broke  out  into  great  abuse  of  my  Tamate. 
I could  not  understand  half  Lahari  said,  but  made  out, 
“ Tamate  very  bad,  very  bad  husband  indeed  ; he  was  no 
good  to  leave  his  wife  for  so  long  when  she  had  a big 
sickness  and  no  one  to  cook  her  ‘ Beritani  ’ food,  &c.” 
I tried  to  expostulate  and  explain,  but  I had  not  strength 
to  make  him  understand.  I felt  quite  upset,  he  got  so 
excited.  I made  out  that  he  meant  to  meet  Tamate  to 
do  something  to  him,  but  what,  I could  not  find  out. 
Tamate  said  afterwards,  “ The  first  person  I saw  on 
landing  was  Lahari,  who  seized  hold  of  me  and  told  me 
everything  he  thought  about  me  for  staying  away  from 
you  so  long.” 

‘ Dear,  fine-looking,  savage  Lahari,  the  great  warrior 
chief  of  Motumotu,  he  is  always  my  dear  friend  and 
champion.  He  always  comes  to  our  services,  and 
never  lets  a day  pass  without  making  me  a call,  and 
staying  awhile  at  the  house,  and  he  has  given  up  his 
fighting  raids.  Tauraki  was  the  means  of  the  fighting 
being  stopped.  He  made  Lahari  promise  not  to  go 
fighting  and  murdering,  and  above  all  not  to  avenge 
his  (Tauraki’s)  death.  This  was  a tremendous  sacrifice 
for  a noted  warrior  chief,  a thoroughly  brave,  fearless 
savage,  to  make,  but  he  promised  his  beloved  teacher 
and  friend,  and  so  far  his  word  has  been  kept.  Tamate 
was  nearly  six  weeks  away,  and  said  he  should  have  been 
another  ten  days  at  least,  but  he  felt  impelled  to  come 
back  at  once — an  impression  he  could  not  put  on  one  side 
made  him  sure  he  was  needed  much  here.  Light  winds 
delayed  them  a little  too.  I was  thankful  to  hear  the 
natives  shout,  “ Sail  ho ! ” and  then,  “ Tamate,  Tamate ! ” 


390 


The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

‘ Nov.  22.  Good  attendance  at  all  services.  On  the 
Saturday  night  Tamate  sends  the  students  in  couples  to 
the  dubus  in  each  village,  with  a short  Gospel  message 
to  the  men  gathered  in  them,  and  a reminder  of  the  next 
day  being  “ Sabati.”  The  students  are  not  to  sit  down, 
gossip,  or  smoke,  during  these  Saturday  night  visits. 
They  just  give  their  Bible  message  as  clearly  as  possible, 
sing  a hymn,  and  come  away.  We  are  so  glad  that 
since  Tamate  had  the  special  meeting  with  all  the  elder 
men  of  the  villages,  and  spoke  and  reasoned  with  them 
on  the  subject,  that  the  Sabbath  has  been  really  well 
obser\’ed. 

‘ Dec.  5.  Tamate  is  here  veiy  ill  indeed.  Has  had 
fever  three  days,  but  would  go  on  with  exams  and  visit- 
ing the  stations.  Has  had  no  food  for  four  days,  was 
carried  to  and  from  the  boat,  and  three  men  helped  him 
into  the  house  here.  He  does  look  dreadful.  "UTien 
got  to  bed  he  said,  “ Eh ! lassie,  I am  bad  indeed ; but 
I care  not  now  I am  at  home,  dearie.” 

‘ 14th.  More  than  a week  since  I vTOte.  I have  had 
no  time.  !My  dear  husband  has  had  a hard  time,  but 
now,  I am  thankful  to  say,  has  got  a turn.  He  is  weak 
as  a wee  baby,  but  to-day  I have  managed  to  get  him 
up  and  partly  dressed  for  the  first  time,  and  he  looks  so 
thin  and  ill,  cannot  take  food  yet,  and  I wonder  how  he 
keeps  alive  at  aU.’ 

Chalmers  had  a great  contempt  for  the  custom  in  some 
modern  missionar}'  books  of  exaggerating  the  risks  run 
and  the  dangers  passed  through  in  savage  parts.  He 
had  no  patience  with  one  or  two  conspicuous  cases  in 
which  he  knew  that  in  the  hairbreadth  escapes  described 
imagination  and  a dread  of  the  natives  played  far  too 
large  a part.  The  narrators  believed  that  they  had 
passed  through  many  dangers  which  existed  nowhere 


All'round  Men  wanted 


391 


save  in  their  own  over-active  brains.  On  December  1 7, 
1891,  he  wrote  a long  letter  to  a gathering  of  old 
Cheshunt  students,  and  he  has  sometimes  in  conversa- 
tion told  the  incident  described  in  it  as  an  example  of 
the  way  in  which  he  could  have  worked  up  harrowing 
pictures  of  peril  had  he  desired  to  do  so. 

‘We  are  glad  to  know  that  this  savage  land  is  not 
forgotten  in  the  old  home,  and  that  there  are  new 
fellows  being  equipped  and  looking  forward  to  soon 
joining  us.  We  want  all-round  men,  just  such  as  we 
have  been  getting,  don’t  care  men,  you  know,  who  like 
anything  that  may  come,  on  shanks,  their  own  or  others ; 
in  a boat  bowling  along  before  a stiff  breeze,  or  flying 
on  the  top  of  a sea  to  be  chucked  out,  lose  everything, 
and  get  to  shore  by  the  skin  of  the  teeth.  It  is  grand 
work  this:  a quiet,  steady  time  at  the  central  station 
of  the  district,  teaching  A,  B,  C,  preparing  teachers, 
preaching  God’s  love,  superintending  house-building, 
road  or  bridge  making,  giving  out  medicine,  killing  or 
curing ; and  then  away  to  out-stations  on  horse,  foot,  or 
boat,  or  to  new  places  to  select  stations,  and  prepare  the 
way  for  teachers. 

‘ In  some  places  it  is,  at  first,  very  uncertain  how  you 
are  to  be  dealt  with,  spear  and  club,  or  friendliness  and 
food.  We  are  now  so  well  known  that  the  chances  of 
the  former  are  very  few,  although  there  is  so  much  of 
the  animal  in  the  savage  that  he  is  apt  to  forget  himself 
and  do  things  for  which  he  is  soon  after  sorry.  Know- 
ing that  He  whom  we  serve  is  ever  near  us,  we  need  fear 
no  evil.  Often  things  look  serious  that  may  be  turned 
into  a mere  fiasco. 

‘ Our  people  here  are  a wild  lot,  and  have  long  been 
the  terror  of  the  coast  and  inland.  Some  time  ago  we 
were  holding  our  Sunday  forenoon  service,  and  had 


392 


The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

a very  good  congregation,  amongst  them  many  youths, 
one  of  whom  was  particularly  troublesome,  especially  at 
prayer-time.  ^^"hen  the  last  prayer  was  concluded, 
I got  up,  caught  the  youth,  and  made  him  sit  down  by 
me,  so  that  when  all  had  gone  out  I should  speak  to 
him  alone.  Some  went  out  hurriedh',  others  lingered. 
^^"aiting  for  all  to  leave,  I w'as  looking  out  through 
a window  on  to  the  main  street,  when  I saw  a number  of 
excited  men,  armed  with  clubs,  bows,  and  arrows,  rushing 
along  towards  the  church.  The  leader  carried  a large 
wooden  broadsword.  I sprang  to  the  door  just  in  time 
to  meet  him  as  he  ascended  the  steps,  and  wrenching  the 
sword  out  of  his  hands,  I shouted.  He  sprang  back,  and 
the  others,  seeing  me  armed,  betook  themselves  in  all 
directions,  rushing  helter  skelter  into  the  bush  close  by, 
anj'where  they  could  get  I cleared  the  house,  spoke  to 
the  youth  and  let  him  go.  !My  own  bo3’S  were  sure  it  was 
a case  of  murder,  and  the}'  got  awaj'  at  the  back,  through 
the  bush  to  our  house,  informing  every  one  that  I was 
murdered.  It  was  suggested  to  me  I should  get  quietly 
away  by  the  back,  but  that  would  never  have  done.  So, 
getting  m}'  few  bo}'s  and  }’Oung  men  together,  we 
marched  through  the  village  home,  I carrj'ing  the 
broadsword,  to  the  great  amusement  of  those  who  had 
taken  no  part  in  the  affair.  The  braves  had  a bad  time 
of  it  from  the  others.  They  were  coming  to  release  the 
bo}’’  b}'  force.’ 

Tamate  and  his  wife  paid  a visit  to  Port  ^Moresby  at 
this  time,  and  on  the  return  journey  experienced  very' 
bad  weather,  even  for  that  stormy  coast.  They  landed 
on  January'  29  at  Oiabu,  and  on  attempting  to  get 
through  the  surf  and  regain  their  boat,  which  was 
beyond  the  breakers,  the}'  had  an  experience  both 
exciting  and  dangerous. 


393 


An  Exciting  Surf  Adventure 

‘At  two  p.m.  we  thought  it  might  be  possible  to 
reach  the  boat,  so  the  large  canoe  was  again  launched. 
It  was  very  hot  indeed,  and  I dreaded  the  sun.  How- 
ever, start  we  must,  and  now  came  a new  experience 
for  me,  and  anything  but  a pleasant  one.  Tamate  and 
I got  into  the  middle  of  the  canoe,  natives  pushed  us  out 
and  swam  on  each  side,  raising  the  bow  to  meet  the 
rollers.  So  we  got  over  two  lines ; then  the  men 
paddled  their  hardest,  but  could  not  ride  the  great 
waves  which  broke  in  turns  over  us,  under,  and  all 
around  us ; every  time  the  wave  broke  over  us  the  men 
sprang  into  the  sea,  holding  up  the  canoe  and  then 
swinging  it  high  on  the  advancing  wave  and  letting 
it  be  washed  back  on  it ; this  was  to  empty  the  canoe 
of  water.  We  two,  seated  on  the  connecting  plank  with 
nothing  to  hold  on  to,  were  anything  but  comfortable. 
I held  on  to  a stalwart  native  who  was  in  the  water 
on  my  side,  and  with  the  other  hand  clung  to  Tamate. 
I never  had  such  a time,  swinging  backwards  and 
forwards,  every  other  moment  just  enveloped  in  white 
surf.  We  were  of  course  drenched  at  the  very  first 
start,  and  we  were  out  in  the  midst  of  that  surf  for 
nearly  an  hour.  No  one  can  imagine  the  more  than 
strange  sensation  of  seeing  an  immense  wave  all  white 
with  surf,  which  one  feels  must  come  over  you,  and 
then  suddenly  the  bow  is  raised,  the  men  give  one 
swing  in  unison,  and  you  are  on  the  crest  and  washing 
back  before  you  have  time  to  feel  nervous.  I got  quite 
accustomed  to  it,  and  quite  as  excited  as  the  men ; I 
believe  I shouted  as  they  did  as  the  rollers  came  thick 
and  fast.  The  natives  on  shore  were  in  a great  state 
of  excitement.  Tamate  thought  we  should  have  to  try 
and  get  back,  which  would  have  been  almost  as  bad 
as  getting  forward.  There  was  a very  heavy  swell 


394  The  Fly  River^  1892-1894 

beyond  the  breakers ; the  boat  had  come  in  as  near  to 
them  as  she  could  with  any  safety,  and  was  pitching  and 
tossing  in  a frantic  manner.  Even  if  we  got  through 
I thought  it  would  be  almost  impossible  for  us  to  get 
into  the  boat.  Our  Toaripians  are  good  surf  swimmers, 
and  four  of  them  had  reached  the  boat.  All  at  once 
there  was  extra  shouting  and  commotion  on  shore, 
responded  to  by  the  men  with  us.  We  saw  a man  swim 
out  with  two  others.  The  leader  was  a grand  swimmer. 
Tamate  said,  “ I believe  that’s  the  great  sorcerer  ; they’ve 
fetched  him  to  subdue  the  waves.”  He  came  on  right 
across  our  bows,  and  we  saw  he  had  a half  cocoa-nut 
shell  in  each  hand.  The  men  made  a desperate  effort 
to  follow  him,  and  paddled  for  dear  life.  We  should 
have  been  washed  off  but  for  the  men  on  each  side, 
and  for  a moment  or  two  could  see  nothing — we  were 
in  the  midst  of  it.  Then  the  surf  setded,  and  Tamate 
said,  “ Look  ! the  fellow’s  got  oil  in  the  shells  ; fancy  their 
knowing  that  trick.”  We  did  get  through  eventually 
by  the  aid  of  the  sorcerer  or  the  oil.  The  natives  were 
triumphant,  of  course.  Their  sorcerer  had  more  power 
over  the  waves  than  Tamate.  I don’t  know  how  I 
got  into  the  boat,  but  it  was  managed,  and  we  were 
away,  wind  ahead  still.  Our  men  strained  every  nerve 
to  reach  Jokea  before  sunset,  and  w^e  got  there  just  after. 
Tamate  insisted  on  keeping  me  wrapped  in  a blanket  over 
my  wet  clothes.  I felt  miserably  hot  and  uncomfortable. 
We  landed  pretty  easily,  and  were  all  and  everything 
safe  inside  and  the  boat  up  before  the  storm  came  which 
we  had  been  dreading  for  the  last  hour  or  two.’ 

At  Thursday  Island,  early  in  March,  Tamate  and  his 
wife  parted,  she  to  return  to  England,  he  to  enter 
seriously  upon  his  new  work.  On  March  5 Mrs.  Chal- 
mers wrote : — 


395 


The  Autobiography  again 

‘ How  I dread  this  parting,  when  I know  that  months 
may  elapse  before  I get  any  letters  from  Tamate  ; sickness 
and  death  may  come  and  I know  nothing  of  it  for  long. 
My  dear  one  says,  “ If  I too  fall  by  the  way,  can  I,  or 
can  you,  wish  anything  better  than  to  die  in  the  field 
about  the  Father’s  work  to  the  last  ? ” Well,  it  is  good 
and  comforting  to  know  that  everything  is  arranged  for 
us,  and  for  the  best.’ 

We  have  now  reached  the  point  where  the  autobio- 
graphy again  takes  up  the  record  of  Chalmers’  life.  It  is 
unfortunate  that  he  appeared  to  tire  of  writing  about 
himself  as  he  drew  towards  the  close,  and  consequently 
he  has  given  us  far  less  in  the  way  of  detail  than  could 
be  desired. 

‘ We  had  settled  at  Motumotu,  and  had  extended  to 
Orokolo,  and  we  were  settling  down  to  steady  work, 
when  I was  asked  by  the  Directors  to  undertake  the 
Fly  River  and  Western  Division  of  our  mission.  The 
work  was  certain  to  prove  more  difficult  than  that  in 
a new  district.  My  hope  also  was  to  extend  inland  by 
the  Mai  Kasa,  and  go  west  to  the  boundary  of  British 
New  Guinea,  and  if  possible  get  to  know  the  Tugeri. 
I resolved  after  much  prayer  to  settle  on  Dauan.  My 
wife  continuing  to  suffer  from  the  climate,  we  decided 
that  she  should  go  home  until  I got  established  in  my 
new  field.  For  the  Fly  River  I decided  on  Saguane  as 
a central  station.  I had  Maru  and  his  wife  to  place,  and 
concluded  to  put  them  on  Saguane. 

‘My  wife  left  Thursday  Island  in  March,  1892,  and 
I arrived  a few  days  after  at  Dauan,  the  Government 
station,  where  Maru  and  his  wife  were  awaiting  me. 
They  had  the  whaleboat,  and  the  same  afternoon  we 
started  for  Mauata.  There  I chartered  a small  vessel, 
and  so  lightened  the  whaleboat.  The  following  morning 


396  The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

we  started,  and  two  days  after  we  anchored  in  the 
whaleboat,  at  nine  p.m.,  in  the  creek  near  to  Saguane.  It 
was  an  anxious  night,  as  we  did  not  know  how  we  should 
be  fixed  in  the  morning.  I did  not  know  the  creek,  and 
there  was  only  swamp  land  about,  and  I wondered  where 
the  sandy  land  was  which  I had  seen  the  year  before.  ^\"e 
had  pra)*er,  and  I told  Manx  and  his  wife  to  stay  by  the 
boat,  and  that  I would  go  and  look  round.  I was  ver)* 
cast  down.  "\Mien  walking  along  I heard  a voice  verj' 
distinctly  say  to  me,  “ This  is  the  way,  walk  j’ou  in  It.” 
I sat  down  on  a log  close  by,  and  said,  “ If  thine,  O Lord, 
is  the  voice,  teach  me  to  hear  and  act,”  and  I heard, 
“ Fear  not,  for  I am  with  thee  ; neither  be  thou  dismayed.” 
I thanked  God,  and  took  courage.  I walked  on  until  I 
came  to  the  village,  but  found  no  one  there,  only  two 
dogs  to  greet  me.  I passed  the  village  and  turned  in  oflF 
the  beach,  and  there  I saw  a nice  piece  of  ground,  very 
suitable  for  a mission  station.  I know  of  no  place  in 
the  Fly  River  drier  or  more  suitable.  I determined  to 
make  this  my  own  headquarters.  I selected  a spot  for 
our  house  and  returned  to  the  boat,  where  I told  my 
discovery  and  pra^'ed. 

‘ We  then  came  to  the  village  and  selected  a house, 
praying  all  the  time  to  be  guided  aright.  During  the 
day  the  schooner  came  in,  and  they  told  us  that  at  diis 
season  all  the  natives  were  up  the  river  at  lasa  for 
muguru^.  That  afternoon  the  schooner  went  up  the 
river,  and  the  following  day  the  canoes  came  down. 
I felt  rather  anxious,  as  we  had  slept  in  a house,  and 
I knew  not  how  they  would  take  this  action.  I walked 
down  the  beach  to  meet  the  people  coming  from  the 
canoes.  The  first  man  I met  seemed  a decent  sort  of 

' This  was  an  initiation  ceremony  for  the  young  men  of  the 
tribe,  at  which  indescribable  abominations  were  practised. 


Saguane  chosen  as  Head  Station  397 

fellow,  and  I tried  to  explain  to  him  that  we  were 
occupying  the  end  of  one  of  the  houses,  and  that  I 
would  pay  for  it.  He  was  excited,  and  kept  saying, 
“ Wade,  wade,  wade  / ” (good).  We  got  to  the  house  and 
found  it  was  his  own,  the  one  of  which  he  was  chief. 
He  then  gave  us  to  understand  that  we  should  have  it 
aU,  and  that  he  and  his  people  would  go  elsewhere. 

‘ After  arranging  about  the  house  we  all  went  to  look 
for  a site  for  the  mission  house,  and  having  decided  on 
one  I selected  twelve  young  men  to  assist  Maru  in  the 
building.  On  the  Monday  we  began  work,  whilst  all 
the  people  left  us  but  the  workmen  and  returned  to 
lasa.  During  the  week  I visited  lasa,  and  found  a very 
large  population,  and  all  very  happy.  It  was  the  season 
of  the  great  annual  festival,  when  the  young  men  are 
initiated  into  the  tribe.  The  dancing  and  feasting 
continue  for  months.  There  must  have  been  over  2,000 
people ; but  the  real  lasa  population  does  not  amount  to 
200.  The  various  villages  have  their  houses,  and  the 
friends  from  far  away  live  there  with  them.  The  houses 
are  very  long ; some  at  lasa  were  nearly  300  or  400  feet 
long.  The  one  at  Baramura,  up  the  river,  I measured, 
and  found  it  to  be  692  feet  in  length.  They  are  about 
forty  feet  broad  and  very  high.  Families  sleep  in 
divisions  along  both  sides,  and  a chief  or  headman 
sleeps  at  each  end.  When  travelling  we  always 
occupied  an  end.  The  main  entrance  is  at  the  ends, 
and  there  are  small  openings  along  both  sides. 

‘ All  the  dancing  is  done  in  one  of  these  houses.  For 
the  dances  they  dress  very  elaborately.  The  head-dress, 
some  of  them  twelve  feet  high  and  three  feet  broad,  is 
one  mass  of  feathers,  chiefly  the  bird  of  paradise.  It 
rests  on  the  head,  and  has  a piece  of  wood  running 
down  the  back  which  is  fastened  with  a string  round  the 


398  The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

middle.  There  are  also  long  streamers  of  white  feathers 
attached,  and  the  whole  is  so  springy  that  every  move- 
ment of  head  and  body  makes  the  head-dress  move 
gracefully.  There  is  also  a very  finely  wrought  band  of 
various  colours  round  the  waist,  and  beautiful  garters  with 
tassels  and  dried  nuts  to  make  a noise,  and  anklets  like 
a ruflf  of  fine  silk,  also  with  dried  nuts  attached.  Men, 
women,  and  children  dance  and  sing  and  beat  drums,  and 
continue  the  whole  night  through.  The  women  wear 
new  petticoats  made  from  the  young  frond  of  the  sago 
palm,  and  dyed  various  colours.  The  young  men  who 
are  being  initiated  wear  great  streamers  from  their  ears 
made  of  the  same  stuff  as  the  women’s  petticoats.  They 
look  very*  demure,  rather  depressed,  as  if  something 
terrible  had  happened,  or  was  going  to  happen.  From 
December  to  the  end  of  ^lay  the  feasting,  dancing,  and 
sago-making  continue,  and  all  school  work  had  to  be 
suspended  during  this  period. 

‘ By  the  middle  of  i\Iay  our  house  was  finished,  and 
I ascended  the  river  to  visit  various  places.  At  that 
time  my  district  extended  from  Cape  Suckling  westward, 
so  that  I could  not  settle  in  any  particular  place.  The 
Directors  having  decided  to  send  me  help,  I resolved  to 
divide  the  western  branch  of  the  mission  and  have  two 
central  stations,  one  at  Jokea  and  one  at  Dauan ; the 
latter  so  far  west  in  order  to  be  near  the  bush  tribes 
and  the  Tugeri.  I tried  when  at  Saguane  to  hold 
a school,  but  only  for  a few  days  could  I get  two 
children  to  attend,  and  then  they  left  for  lasa. 

‘ In  1894  I received  a cablegram,  “The  Directors  want 
you  home,”  and  I thought  I ought  to  leave  as  soon  as 
possible.  I made  one  visit  all  round,  ascended  the 
Fly  to  Howling  Point,  and  was  well  received.  Ever)^ 
previous  expedition  had  to  use  their  rifles  to  get 


The  Call  to  New  Work 


399 


throug-h.  On  May  20  I left  Thursday  Island,  and 
arrived  in  London  in  the  first  week  in  June.  Lizzie, 
who  was  ready  to  return  to  me  in  March,  was  advised 
to  remain,  and  so  met  me  at  the  docks.  I remained  at 
home  until  November,  1895,  when  I left  London,  having 
been  instructed  by  the  Directors  not  to  proceed  further 
west,  but  to  confine  myself  at  present  to  the  Fly  River. 
My  wife  remained  in  England  for  the  present.’ 

Before  we  accompany  Chalmers  to  England  on  his 
second  visit,  it  is  needful  to  look  a little  more  closely 
into  his  work  from  1892  to  1894. 

Chalmers  felt  the  instruction  of  the  Directors  to  take 
up  the  work  in  the  Western  District  of  New  Guinea  as 
a call  to  new  but  most  serious  and  even  dangerous  duty. 
The  man  being  what  he  was,  this  fact  only  led  him  to 
enter  upon  it  with  strenuous  vigour  and  confident  hope. 
In  a letter  of  May  17,  1892,  he  writes,  ‘I  feel  quite  young 
again  in  this  new  work,  and  quite  fit  for  any  amount  of 
it.’  But  the  darker  side  was  also  present  to  his  mind, 
for  a month  later  he  says,  ‘ This  Fly  River  work 
I look  upon  as  my  last  and  perhaps  greatest  work  for 
Christ,  and  being  always  with  Him  I fear  not.  God 
knows  there  will  be  many  Gethsemanes,  and  it  may  be 
Calvarys ; but  all  for  Christ,  and  it  is  well.’ 

‘June  23,  1892. 

‘ The  people  of  Saibai  and  Dauan  are  greatly 
delighted  at  t he  prospect  of  having  a white  missionary 
settled  amor.gst  them.  From  Dauan  we  went  to 
Mabuiag,  and  then  on  to  Thursday  Island.  We  had 
terrible  weather,  and  all  of  us  felt  ill  after  it.  I took  the 
Sunday  evening  service,  and  proclaimed  war  against 
giving  drink  to  natives  or  allowing  boats  to  take  it  to 
the  islands  in  the  Straits.  Mr.  Douglas,  the  Govern- 


400  The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

merit  Resident,  sa}*s  I must  now  can-)'-  on  the  war.  Yes, 
I am  all  ready  ; 2 Chron.  xiv.  ii,  12. 

‘ ^^’hen  at  Kivori  I saw  the  ^lotu  New  Testament,  and 
am  delighted  with  it.  Thank  God  Misi  has  been  able 
to  give  us  that.  There  had  been  so  much  sickness  and 
so  many  deaths,  that  we  had  a special  prayer-meeting, 
and  I read  passages  concerning  death,  resurrection,  and 
the  home  yonder.  The  people  were  thrilled.  I read 
without  comment,  and  when  I had  finished  one  man 
said,  his  voice  trembling  with  emotion,  “ Oh,  Tamate, 
those  were  good  words  and  we  were  astonished.”  ’ 

In  JuK’  Chalmers  was  back  at  Port  ^Moresby  to  attend 
the  committee  meeting  of  all  the  New  Guinea  missionaries, 
except  Dr.  Lawes,  who  was  av’ay  on  furlough.  The 
meetings  were  held  from  July  20  to  July  23.  Chalmers 
was  In  the  chair,  and  the  resolutions  adopted  were  of 
great  importance  to  the  future  working  of  the  mission. 
It  may  give  the  reader  some  insight  into  the  local 
working  of  an  important  mission  hke  that  of  New 
Guinea  if  the  main  resolutions  adopted  at  this  business 
meeting  are  given  ; and  it  will  ser\’e  as  an  illustration  of 
the  nature  of  aU  these  District  committee  meetings. 
There  were  present,  in  addition  to  Tamate,  the 
Reverends  A.  Pearse,  F.  W.  W’alker,  H.  M.  Dauncey, 
and  C.  W.  Abel. 

‘ That  the  New  Guinea  District  committee  take  this 
first  opportunity  of  welcoming  the  members  of  the 
\^"esleyan  lMissionar\'  Society,  who  have  recendy  com- 
menced work  in  this  countr}',  and  of  heartily  congratu- 
lating them  on  the  success  which  has  attended  their 
settlement  on  the  islands  of  the  Eastern  Archipelago. 
They  pray  that  God’s  richest  blessing  may  continue 
with  them  in  their  work,  and  that  they  may  achieve  the 
highest  success  in  the  gospel  of  Christ. 


District  Committee 


401 


* That  having  heard  the  further  report  of  Mr.  Chalmers 
on  his  recent  visit  to  the  Fly  River,  we  feel  that  the 
work  should  be  proceeded  with  without  delay.  We 
also  feel  that  to  meet  the  requirements  of  that  district 
it  would  be  necessary  to  have  a steam  launch  for  navi- 
gating the  Fly  River.  We  unanimously  express  our 
hearty  sympathy  with  the  continuance  of  the  Society’s 
work  in  the  west  of  New  Guinea.  At  the  same  time 
we  are  of  opinion  that  the  Elema  district  should  not  be 
left  permanently  until  two  new  missionaries  are  sent  out 
to  take  over  Mr.  Chalmers’  present  work  at  Motumotu 
and  Delena. 

‘ That  we  regret  to  state  that  after  careful  investi- 
gation, and  a wider  experience  of  the  various  tribes 
outside  the  Port  Moresby  district,  we  are  convinced  that 
the  Motu  language  can  never  become  the  spoken  lan- 
guage of  the  people,  and  we  propose  to  rescind  the 
previous  resolutions  regarding  the  Institution  based  upon 
this  theory.  We  therefore  consider  that  translation  work 
in  the  other  districts  should  not  be  discontinued.  Mean- 
while we  are  anxious  to  avail  ourselves  of  the  splendid 
services  rendered  to  our  mission  by  the  Rev.  W.  G.  Lawes, 
and  urge  upon  the  Directors  to  make  adequate  pro- 
vision at  Port  Moresby  for  the  training  of  our  students  in 
the  Motu  language  until  such  time  as  we  are  in  a position 
to  give  them  the  Scriptures  in  their  own  tongues. 

‘ That  we  endeavour  to  arrange  a conference  with  the 
members  of  the  Anglican  and  Wesleyan  Missionary 
Societies,  to  be  held  at  Kwato  after  the  District  com- 
mittee meetings  next  May,  and  that  if  possible  a con- 
ference should  be  repeated  for  Christian  fellowship 
whenever  our  committee  meets  in  the  east  end  of  the 
Possession.  That  a copy  of  the  above  resolution  be 
forwarded  to  the  representatives  of  these  Societies.’ 


402 


The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

It  is  neither  possible  nor  desirable  to  enter  upon  any 
consideration  of  the  large  questions  involved  in  these 
decisions.  But  we  may  indicate  the  chief  results  which 
have  followed.  Dr.  Lawes  and  Chalmers  both  believed 
that  Motuan  might  be  made  the  Literary  language  of 
New  Guinea.  In  this  view  their  colleagues  at  first 
acquiesced ; but  the  resolution  given  above  marks  the 
reversal  of  this  opinion.  The  language  diflSculty  in 
New  Guinea  is  enormous,  and  at  any  rate  the  die  is  now 
cast.  Each  European  misslonar}'  provides  literature  for 
his  people  as  best  he  can  in  the  vernacular.  This  seems 
natural  and  fitting,  but  in  New  Guinea,  under  the 
influence  of  the  London  Missionarj’-  Society  alone,  there 
are  spoken  at  least  seven  different  languages. 

Another  result  was  the  transference  of  Dr.  Lawes 
from  Port  Moresby  to  Vatorata,  and  the  institution 
there  of  a new  and  enlarged  training  college  for  native 
teachers. 

It  also  led  to  the  Rev.  H.  M.  Dauncey  making  Delena 
his  headquarters,  and  the  transference  of  the  Rev.  F.  W. 
Walker  from  Kwato  to  the  Gulf  Mission.  Mr.  Chalmers’ 
■work  at  Motumotu  and  the  stations  in  the  Gulf  was  con- 
solidated and  extended  by  the  Rev.  J.  H.  Holmes,  who 
was  stationed  first  at  Jokea  and  then  at  Orokolo. 

After  leaving  Port  Moresby  Tamate  went  on  a long 
trip  to  the  stations,  including  another  visit  to  his  old 
Namau  ^ friends. 

In  September  he  wus  back  at  Toaripl.  ‘ Yesterday,’ 
he  writes  on  September  12,  ‘ was  a day  that  will  be  long 
remembered  here.  I baptized  eight  natives,  after  they 
had  given  good  public  testimony  for  Christ  before  their 
countrymen.  There  are  others  waiting.  My  only  sorrow 
is  there  were  no  women,  and  until  the  women  are  got 
^ See  Pioneering  in  New  Guinea  (1902),  chap.  x. 


Helpfulness  of  Books  403 

for  Christ  we  cannot  expect  any  real  living  church. 
A change  for  the  better  is  coming  over  the  people,  and 
neighbours  formerly  afraid  of  them  speak  gladly  of  the 
change.’ 

From  1887  onwards,  friends  in  England  were  very 
kind  in  forwarding,  among  many  other  things  useful  for 
the  work,  books  likely  to  be  helpful  and  entertaining  to 
lonely  missionaries.  Many  of  the  letters  of  Mrs.  Chal- 
mers and  Tamate  show  how  greatly  they  appreciated 
such  thoughtful  consideration.  A case  arrived  at  Toaripi 
at  this  time,  and  Chalmers  writes  : — 

‘ I thank  God  for  Gilmour.  What  a grand  fellow  he 
was.  Lovett  has  given  the  world  a good  picture  of 
a good  and  great  man.  How  small  some  of  our  lives 
feel  in  the  presence  of  Gilmour.  To-day  I went  to  hear 
Dr.  Reynolds,  and  had  a feast.  A Window  in  Thrums 
I am  enjoying ; it  is  real  life.  Spurgeon  I shall  hear  on 
the  voyage,  and  also  reserve  Little  Minister  for  that 
time.  Tim^  too,  will  then  be  read.  What  can  I say  for 
all  the  loving  thoughts  these  books  convey  ? ’ 

Chalmers  returned  to  the  Straits  towards  the  close  of 
the  year. 

‘Murray  Island,  November  1892. 

‘ Many  thanks  for  the  letter  written  when  voyaging 
amongst  the  Fjords  of  the  Land  of  the  Midnight  Sun. 
In  the  land  of  stewing  and  frizzling  'twas  refreshing 
indeed  to  have  the  “ God  bless  you  ” from  the  land  of 
coolness  and  grandeur.  I should  like  to  see  that 
wonderful  country,  just  to  have  been  a fellow-traveller 
with  you  all.  I can  imagine  your  feelings  somewhat 
when  amidst  that  grandeur  of  nature.  I was  brought 
up  among  the  mountains,  I loved  them,  and  now  love 
them  more  than  ever.  When  far  inland  in  New  Guinea, 
and  amongst  the  stern  sentinels  of  Mount  Owen  Stanley 

C c 2 


404 


The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

on  the  rug-ged  rockj’  mountains  of  the  east  end,  I hat'e 
often  spent  hours  alone  with  them,  the  everlasting  hills, 
and  been  awed  at  their  presence,  as  they  reflected  the 
grandeur  and  fervour  of  their  God  and  my  God. 

‘ I too  have  been  travelling  lately  in  new  country,  but 
how  tame  and  flat  to  where  you  three  have  been.  The 
highest  thing  we  saw  was  a cocoa-nut  tree.  There  were 
some  high  temples  and  in  them  many  curious  things, 
such  things  as  only  savages  could  appreciate. 

‘ You  will  know  our  latest  plan,  a steam  launch  for 
the  Fly  River  and  neighbourhood.  That  will  help  us 
much,  and  enable  us  to  carrj'  on  the  work  better  for 
Christ  and  the  Xew  Guineans.  I hope  to  hear  next 
week  that  she  will  be  in  Thursday  Island  soon.  I shall 
meet  her  and  clear  out  immediately  for  the  scene  of 
operations. 

‘The  launch  arrived  here  on  January  5,  1893,  in  a 
deluge  of  rain.  On  the  way  up  they  had  veiy  dirt}- 
weather,  but  she  proved  herself  a splendid  little  sea-boat. 
I like  her  much  and  think  her  most  suitable.  The  only 
alteration  I shall  make  is  to  use  a tiller  instead  of  the 
wheel  amidships.  She  has  a ver)'  pretty  litde  saloon, 
and  the  cockpit  aft  can  be  made  with  canvas  a very 
comfortable  place  for  the  crew.’ 

The  first  trip  in  the  Miro  is  fully  described  in 
Pio)ieering  in  Xew  Guinea^.  Unhappily  the  steam 
launch  did  not  equal  the  high  anticipations  with  which 
she  was  received,  and  did  not  prove  powerful  enough 
for  the  work  required. 

The  field  at  this  period  under  Chalmers’  superinten- 
dence was  of  enormous  extent,  and  involved  constant 
travelling  between  the  Straits  and  the  Gulf.  He  was 


^ Edition  of  1902,  chap.  xii. 


The  Steam  Launch  Miro 


405 


expected  to  attend  committee  meetings  in  New  Guinea 
once  or  twice  a year.  He  had  to  supervise  the  native 
teachers  over  the  whole  of  New  Guinea  west  of  Hall 
Sound  and  through  the  Straits  to  Murray  Island.  It 
was  inevitable  that  with  such  duties  he  should  be  always 
on  the  move  and  not  unfrequently  in  perils  among  the 
heathen  and  constantly  in  perils  of  waters.  But  he 
loved  the  work.  He  could  never  have  settled  down  at 
a station  and  carried  on  steady  work  year  after  year,  no 
matter  how  attractive  or  how  fruitful.  The  man  of 
settled  habits  and  methodical  life  was  apt  to  think  his 
life  easy  and  his  labour  to  some  extent  spent  in  vain. 
The  truer  estimate  is  to  look  upon  him  as  a man  magni- 
ficently endowed  by  his  Maker  for  the  work  he  did,  and 
the  work  he  loved.  He  was  the  pathfinder  through  the 
New  Guinea  wilderness.  He  did  that  which  no  one  else 
could  have  done  so  well — he  opened  innumerable  door- 
ways into  savage  districts.  Through  these  for  a genera- 
tion to  come  those  who  are  to  consolidate  and  extend 
the  work  will  enter.  That  this  task  was  after  his  own 
heart  he  ever  gladly  acknowledged.  On  December  6, 
1893,  he  wrote  : — 

‘ I am  in  excellent  health  and  have  all  the  youthful 
ardour  I ever  had,  more,  really  more.  To  be  away  and 
finish  visiting  my  stations  and  then  on  to  new  work — 
opening  up  new  places  has  a strangely  wonderful  charm 
for  me.  I dearly  love  to  be  the  first  to  preach  Christ  in 
a place,  never  mind  though  it  has  to  be  through  an  inter- 
preter.’ 

‘Near  Jokea,  May  26,  1893. 

‘ Having  no  other  means  of  travelling  I came  here  in 
the  Niue  and  since  then  have  been  storekeeping,  undoing 
things  and  giving  out  the  needful  stores  to  the  teachers. 
We  also  have  had  some  really  good  prayer-meetings, 


4o6  The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

real  soul-stirring  ones,  and  God  knows  we  needed  them 
much.  I have  had  to  return  one  teacher  for  neglecting 
work  and  trading,  and  I may  have  to  do  so  to  another. 
I may  not  be  careful  enough  of  Mr.  Mammon,  but  some 
of  these  men  are  certainly  too  careful  and  forget  all  else. 
Once  I was  terribly  stranded  so  far  down  that  I felt  it 
really  and  truly,  but  I can  remember  no  other  time 
when  want  of  money  bothered  me.  I have  often  been 
without  it  and  been  happy  enough,  and  did  not  care ; but 
that  once  I wanted  a stamp  for  a love-letter,  and  could 
not  get  it,  and  I really  felt  the  pinch  of  poverty,  and  was 
envious.  Never  again.  Money  I do  not  think  is  my 
temptation ; if  I have  it,  it  must  go. 

‘ A teacher  has  just  been  carried  in  sick,  and  he  tells 
me  I must  go  to  his  village  as  there  are  several  who 
wish  baptism  because  they  love  Jesus,  and  he  has  been 
teaching  them  well.  I cannot  go  now.  Such  is  our 
experience,  dark  clouds  and  then  light.  We  have  all 
been  greatly  blessed  in  our  study  of  Exodus  xxxiii.  12 
to  end,  and  xxiii.  20  to  end.  I want  all  of  us  to  go 
over  it  every  Sabbath  and  make  it  as  our  covenant 
with  God,  using  our  own  names  instead  of  Moses. 
When  I get  a chance  of  seeing  Moses,  I shah,  want  to 
know  what  he  really  saw,  but  I fancy  he  will  not  be 
able  to  describe  so  great  a glory  even  in  the  Glory 
itself.  What  a time  we  shall  have  asking  questions  and 
solving  many  things ! 

‘ You  would  be  pleased  with  Kwato  and  the  work 
accomplished  in  the  few  years.  Their  practice  is  to  have 
all  sorts  of  games  with  the  lads,  and,  being  a lad,  I had 
a go  at  football  and  suffered  from  stiffness  for  days. 
They  have  plenty  of  land  to  make  the  whole  pay,  and 
so  save  the  London  Missionar}^  Society’s  funds.  The 
largest  bit  of  land  we  Iiave  on  New  Guinea  is  here, 


Renewed  Consecration 


407 

and  it  is  big  enough  to  support  a large  population,  at 
least  100. 

‘ I want  to  get  to  Motumotu,  but  cannot  yet,  A vessel 
is  anchored  ofif,  and  we  are  in  communication  with  it 
only  by  swimming.  Two  strong  youths  who  seem  to 
think  it  fine  fun  undertake  to  go  to  and  fro,  and  do 
it  well.’ 


‘Fly  River,  Saguane,/«/^  7,  1893. 

‘ I am  kind  of  storm  stayed  and  am  writing  up. 
I have  been  visiting  a short  distance  up  the  river  and 
down  the  left  bank,  and  found  the  Miro  really  a comfort. 
When  wet  and  dirty  it  was  pleasant  to  get  on  board  and 
have  a change  and  rest  and  a comfortable  meal.  We 
found  the  majority  of  villages  well  in  from  river  bank, 
and  had  to  wade  through  mud  and  water  and  cross 
creeks  on  saplings  to  get  to  them.  The  villages  consist 
generally  of  one  big  house  and  two  or  three  small  ones. 
The  largest  house  I have  seen  was  690  feet  long.  It 
was  all  divided  into  compartments  or  stalls  down  each 
side  for  each  family,  and  down  the  centre  a large  open 
space  where  they  dance.  It  must  be  a strange  life  they 
live  there,  but  it  is  home,  and  that  is  everything. 

‘ We  had  meetings  at  each  place,  and  for  the  first  time 
many  heard  that  “ God  is  love,”  and  of  Jesus  His  beloved 
Son  who  came  to  make  Him  known  and  to  bring  us  to 
the  Father.  I had  a teacher  from  Sumai  with  me,  and 
he  interpreted  for  me  and  also  gave  addresses  himself. 
At  some  places  we  had  large  meetings,  advising  them  to 
give  up  some  of  their  customs  at  once ; and  they  have 
promised  to  do  so.  I hope  they  will  soon  give  up  all 
useless  and  bad  customs ; but  some  we  must  insist  upon 
their  giving  up  at  once,  as  they  interfere  much  with  our 
work.  I think  their  promise  is  good.’ 


4o8 


The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

‘Domori./?/^  13,  1S93. 

‘ Bad  weather  sent  us  up  the  river  again,  and  I have 
\dsited  several,  to  me,  new  places.  They  call  them 
villages,  but  they  have  only  one  house,  dmded  out 
into  portions  for  families.  There  is  no  privacy  what- 
ever, as  these  dmsions  are  all  open.  Ever}avhere  we 
had  a good  reception,  although  at  most  places  the 
women  and  children  were  all  stowed  away  in  the  bush. 
I have  just  now  returned  from  a village,  and  on  entering 
saw  only  one  elderly  woman,  and  gave  her  a present 
of  beads.  We  were  some  time  in  one  of  the  houses 
holding  a service,  and  getting  curios,  and  on  leaving 
for  the  boat  I was  surrounded  by  aU  the  women  and 
children  they  had,  and  to  all  I gave  a little  pre- 
sent ^^'herever  we  go  in  this  part  it  is  through  mud 
and  water.  You  should  have  seen  me  the  other  day 
after  a hard  day’s  visiting — guess  you  would  not  have 
known  me.  I must  go  to  Thursday  Island  for  sup- 
plies, and  new  articles,  and  may  be  to  meet  a new 
missionary.  At  Bampton  I had  a grand  Sunday,  though 
ver}’  sad  also.  In  the  forenoon  I buried  one  of  our 
teachers.  In  the  afternoon  I baptized  thirty-eight  men 
and  women  who  professed  faith  in  Christ,  the  first 
converts  from  our  '\^’’estern  District  The  work  grows, 
light  spreads,  and  Christ  is  glorified.  We  may  all  rejoice 
therein,  you  in  Melbourne  and  we  in  New  Guinea.’ 

‘Dauan,  September  ii,  1893. 

‘ A few  hours  ago  Holmes  and  I arrived  here  in  the 
whaleboat  from  the  Fly  River.  That  word,  river,  has 
been  the  bane  of  my  life  since  I came  here.  Everj’-- 

' This  was  the  Rev.  J.  H.  Holmes,  recently  appointed  to  the 
Mission.  He  was  for  some  time  at  Jokea  and  then  at  Orokolo, 
where  he  has  carried  on  work  in  the  way  Chalmers  so  eagerly 
desired  to  see  it  done. 


409 


A Fly  River  Bore 

body  seems  to  think  of  a splendid  stream  of  fresh  water 
gently  flowing  through  tropical  countries  and  falling 
into  Papua  Gulf.  I myself,  until  this  last  season’s  ex- 
perience, thought  it  might  be  a little  boisterous  at  the 
mouth,  but  up  the  river  a large,  calm,  peaceful  stream. 
I now  know  it  to  be  a fearful  place  for  gales  of  wind 
and  heavy  seas,  and  up  it  a dangerous  bore  during 
spring  tides. 

‘ At  Domori  I got  the  chief  on  board,  and,  anxious  to 
get  him  right  away,  cleared  out  for  the  island  close  by 
where  I have  been  before.  He  could  introduce  me  to 
each  place,  and  amongst  the  places  was  one  that  gave 
trouble  to  Macfarlane’s  and  the  Governor’s  expeditions 
as  well  as  to  D’Alberti’s.  Crossing  to  the  island  we  were 
carrying  one  fathom  good  all  the  way,  when  suddenly, 
“five  feet,”  “stop  her,”  we  were  on  a mud-bank  fast 
enough. 

‘ Fearing  we  should  break  the  stern  post  I would  not 
back  her  but  just  waited  the  rising  tide.  About  6.30 
the  tide  rose  a little,  and  we  pulled  on  a kedge  I had 
got  out  astern.  We  were  off  when  we  heard  a peculiar 
express  train  noise,  and  soon  were  on  the  bank  again, 
and  all  on  board  thought  clean  over  and  all  up  with  us. 
It  was  a big  bore  that  tore  down  on  us  and  carried  us 
bodily,  anchor  and  all,  on  to  the  bank,  and  away  across 
it.  We  simply  were  torn  over  it,  and  although  we  gave 
her  the  bow  anchor  that  too  went  with  us.  We  pulled 
up  in  six  fathoms  of  water  to  find  the  rudder  would  not 
work.  Next  morning  we  kedged  her  ashore  on  to  a 
bank  of  the  mainland,  and  when  the  water  left  her  high 
and  dry  we  found  the  rudder  post  bent  and  cracked,  and 
the  stern  post  carried  quite  away  on  the  under  part. 
For  two  nights  we  remained  on  that  bank,  but  had  to 
clear  out  into  better  quarters. 


410 


The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

‘ There  is  no  one  to  blame  for  the  weakness  of  the 
engines  and  boiler.  Had  I been  in  Sydney,  not  know- 
ing the  Fly  River  as  I do  now,  I should  have  thought 
her  powerful  enough  and  been  an  anxious  party  to  her 
purchase,  she  being  such  a pretty  boat  and  her  small 
saloon  so  comfortable. 

‘ The  word  “ river  ” has  done  the  mischief.  No  use 
burking  it,  we  want  more  powerful  engines  and  a dif- 
ferent boiler,  and  a protracted  keel  to  protect  the  pro- 
peller and  strong  enough  to  hold  the  rudder.  There 
are  banks  innumerable  and  unknown  in  the  river,  and 
we  must  be  prepared  for  them.  No  one  knows  the 
Fly  River,  and  only  now  are  tribes  and  villages  coming 
to  light,  and  to  each  one  of  these  we  want  to  bring  the 
Gospel.  No  use  finding  fault  with  an^"  one,  the  Fly 
River  is  a river,  but  a bad,  bad  river,  unknown  to 
any  one.  I think,  and  am  troubled  about  the  expense, 
but  I look  through  glasses  beautifully  clear,  and  I see 
savage  tribes  now  unknown  sitting  and  being  taught 
of  Jesus. 


‘ SUMAI,  September  13, 1893 

‘ We  had  visits  from  many  natives  when  up  the  river, 
and  had  frequent  ser^dces  with  them.  I taught  them  to 
pray,  “Jesus  Christ,  Chief,  give  me  imvard  light.  Amen.” 
It  was  a trying  time,  but  a good  one.  j\Ir.  Holmes  is 
with  me,  and  has  stood  it  well.  He  is  a fine  young 
fellow,  a man  of  praj-er. 

‘ \Wien  v-’e  were  in  diflBculties  the  chief  of  Domori 
came  to  us  with  native  food,  saying,  “ Tamate,  this  is 
a real  present,  and  I want  no  pay.”  The  man  is  a 
savage,  and  a very  frightened  one,  and  it  is  only  now 
he  comes  to  see  me  with  a look  of  pleasure.  A native 
who  is  with  us  prayed  at  a service.  \^Ten  he  had 


411 


New  Year  Feast  at  Jokea 


finished,  Araua,  the  chief  referred  to  above,  said, 
“ Tamate,  by -and -by  when  you  teach  me  I too  can 
pray  Hke  him.”  He  came  to  see  us  every  day.  He 
will  accompany  me  up  the  river,  and  introduce  me  to 
new  places  on  both  banks.  The  work  will  have  to  be 
done  by  constant  visiting  of  the  people,  and  on  every 
visit  something  taught.’ 


‘ I have  been  much  struck  and  pleased  with  the 
prayers  of  many  of  our  recent  converts,  especially  the 
Motumotuans.  Have  you  ever  heard  heaven  named  as 
the  “ place  of  laughter  ” ? One  prayed  for  help  to  live 
a holy  active  life  here  for  Christ,  and  hereafter  “ the 
place  of  laughter.”  y After  a good  day’s  work,  and  there 
has  been  a good  supper,  often  the  natives  sit  in  the 
street  or  on  a platform,  and  shouts  of  laughter,  screaming 
laughter,  may  be  heard  as  story  after  story  is  told  of  the 
day’s  doings  and  sayings.  All  are  happy  and  thoroughly 
enjoying  themselves — hence  the  simile. 

‘ The  great  New  Year  Feast  has  passed  quietly  by. 
No  difficulty  here  to  find  guests,  and  never  such  a thing 
as  a refusal.  The  New  Guineans  must  think  those 
mentioned  in  the  parable  terrible  fools  to  beg  to  be 
excused.  They  are  now  rushing  in  uninvited,  and  being 
sent  back. 

‘ It  is  now  all  over,  and  a memory  for  them,  and  much 
to  speak  of  for  many  a day.  He  has  been  looking  on, 
and  is  also  pleased.  The  influence  of  to-day  will  go  on 
widening,  and  extend  a long,  long  time.  On  Saturday 
we  had  all  the  children,  and  they  were  made  happy,  and 
their  Friend  and  our  Friend  was  happy  too,  I guess. 
Can  there  be  anything  to  give  more  real  pleasure  than 
the  feeling  we  have  made  Him  happy  through  helping 
His  own  little  ones  ? and  though  they  are  children  of 


‘ Jokea, i,  1894. 


412  The  Fly  River,  1892-1894 

savages  (?),  yet  they  are  all  His,  and  He  loves  them. 
There  were  five  languages  represented,  but  all  joined 
in  His  own  prayer  in  the  Motuan.’ 

The  Centenary  celebrations  of  the  London  Missionary 
Society  began  in  1895.  The  Directors,  in  view  of  that 
great  event,  deemed  it  advisable  to  secure  the  magnetic 
and  heart-stirring  advocacy  of  Tamate  at  the  great 
meetings  which  were  to  be  held  all  over  the  countr)'. 
On  reaching  Thursday  Island  in  March,  1894,  he  found 
a telegram  awaiting  him,  brief  but  to  the  point ; 
‘ Directors  want  you  home.’  By  the  middle  of  May  he 
was  on  his  way  to  England. 


CHAPTER  XI 

THE  SECOND  VISIT  HOME,  1894 

Chalmers  returned  to  England  in  the  belief  that  he 
would  be  used  by  God  to  stimulate  and  deepen  the 
missionary  enthusiasm  of  the  churches  at  home.  In  this 
endeavour  he  was  prepared  to  exert  all  his  influence 
and  to  tax  his  energies  to  the  uttermost.  He  had  been 
separated  from  his  wife  for  over  two  years ; he  was 
deeply  concerned  about  the  future  and  well-being  of  his 
stepson,  Bert,  whom  he  loved  with  a strong  affection ; 
and  the  delight  of  reunion  with  these,  his  nearest  and 
dearest,  was  a strong  attraction.  He  landed  at  Ply- 
mouth in  1894  with  very  different  feelings  from  those 
which  dominated  him  in  1887.  Then  he  felt  himself 
a stranger,  more  at  home  in  a canoe  than  in  a train,  far 
more  at  ease  in  a dubu  than  in  a church.  He  dreaded 
the  duty  of  addressing  audiences,  and  he  contemplated 
a speedy  return  flight  from  the  restraints  of  civilization. 
In  1894  he  looked  forward  to  renewed  fellowship  with 
hosts  of  loving  friends,  he  had  tested  and  knew  his 
power  to  move  vast  audiences,  his  enthusiasm  for  his 
life-work  was  even  more  fervent  than  in  1887,  and  he  felt 
that  God  had  a work  for  him  to  do  and  would  give  him 
grace  and  strength  to  perform  it.  ‘ I have  come  home,’ 
he  wrote,  ‘ for  good  hard  work,  and,  God  helping  me, 
1 cannot  get  too  much.  I have  a feeling  in  my  soul  and 


414  "The  Second  Visit  Home,  1894 

all  through  me  that  we  shall  have  great  blessings  this 
autumn  and  winter. 

‘ My  dear  old  Dr.  Reynolds  writes,  “ Our  difficulties 
will  vanish  (they  are  not  mere  financial  deficits)  before 
a new  outpouring  upon  us  and  infusion  into  us  of  the 
spirit  and  mind  of  Christ.”  He  has  hit  it  straight,  and 
we  must  have  it.  The  less  we  talk  about  the  money 
and  the  more  we  are  filled  with  Christ,  and  so  talk  of 
Him  and  His  kingdom  the  plentiful  supply  of  the  former 
He  will  see  to.  We  need  to  see  all  the  professing 
servants  of  Christ  revived  and  quickened,  and  not  the 
comparative  few  only  who  are  concerned  about  His 
affairs.’ 

After  his  many  years  of  strenuous  work  in  the  tropics 
Chalmers  found  the  home  climate  trying,  especially  during 
the  winter  months,  and  once  or  twice  he  was  threatened 
with  a serious  breakdown  in  health.  His  old  enemy, 
the  New  Guinea  fever,  was  ever  ready  to  attack  him  the 
moment  his  health  suffered.  And  when  later  on  in  his 
furlough  friends  urged  him  to  work  less  and  rest  more 
his  reply  was  the  same,  ‘ I am  in  excellent  health,  but 
want  a “ rest  awhile  ” very  badly.  Tamate  Vaine  of 
course  agrees  with  you,  but  I shall  do  the  appointed 
work  in  Ireland.  When  coming  home  to  Britain,  and 
after  my  arrival,  I said  if  health  is  given  me  it  is  for 
His  purpose,  and  it  shall  be  used  accordingly.  Since 
coming  home  you  know  how  I have  been  blessed,  and 
I cannot  now  go  back.  I would  listen  if  only  I were 
sickly.  I feel  power  has  gone  out  of  me,  and  I need 
a litde  while  apart,  and  I am  in  hopes  of  getting  it  after 
Liverpool.  We  are  not  our  own  but  His.’ 

Dr.  Griffith  John  had  been  expected  home  to  take 
part  in  the  pubh'c  work  connected  with  the  centenary 
work  of  the  London  ^Missionary  Society,  but  he  could 


Chalmers^  Magnetism  415 

not  tear  himself  away  from  his  loved  duties  at  Hankow. 
Could  he  have  come  he  would  have  shared  the  duty  of 
speaking  at  great  meetings.  But  by  his  inability  to 
come  Chalmers  was  left  to  bear  the  main  burden.  No 
matter  who  the  other  speakers  might  be,  at  every  great 
assembly,  and  at  multitudes  of  the  smaller  meetings  also, 
the  one  indispensable  orator  was  Chalmers.  And  so 
from  Dan  to  Beersheba,  throughout  Britain,  he  travelled 
unceasingly,  speaking,  preaching,  kindling  into  burning 
flame  of  love  and  zeal  alike  the  individuals  who  were 
fortunate  enough  to  come  into  close  touch  with  his 
virile,  sympathetic,  Christ-possessed  humanity,  and  also 
the  great  assemblies  that  were  enthralled  by  his  rugged 
eloquence  and  unquenchable  enthusiasm  for  the  uplifting 
of  humanity.  Multitudes  who  were  gripped  by  him  in 
the  public  gatherings  will  treasure  as  long  as  life  lasts 
the  scenes  he  enabled  them  to  see,  the  object-lesson  he 
gave  them  in  entire  consecration  to  the  Master’s  service. 
No  missionary  speaker  of  this  generation  more  nobly 
utilized  the  great  opportunities  granted  to  him  of  in- 
fluencing his  fellow  men.  Possibly  no  one  had  the 
power  of  so  deeply  stirring  the  heart  as  Chalmers  when 
he  told  his  famous  ‘ let  us  walk  and  pray  ’ experience,  or 
how  he  almost  grew  impatient  for  the  cannibals  to  kill 
him  and  end  his  terrible  suspense  at  East  Cape  ; or  how, 
moved  by  some  inward  impulse,  he  turned  upon  the 
following  savage  just  in  time  to  wrench  from  his  grasp 
the  club  that  in  another  moment  would  have  crushed  in 
his  skull. 

Chalmers  on  the  platform  and  in  the  pulpit  was 
great ; but  in  the  quiet  home,  after  the  day’s  deputation 
work  was  over,  in  congenial  society — it  was  then  that 
the  simplicity,  the  single-heartedness,  the  consecration, 
the  Christ-likeness  of  the  man  shone  out  most  brightly. 


4i6  The  Second  Visit  Home,  1894 

There  come  to  us  as  we  write  evenings  spent  long  years 
ago  with  one  w'ho  has  long  since  greeted  him  within 
the  veil — an  English  lady  nearly  a generation  older  than 
himself,  whose  life  in  its  duties  was  the  diameter  of 
being  away  from  that  of  the  great  pioneer.  That  which 
linked  them  together  was  love  to  the  one  Saviour,  a 
life  of  prayer,  a deep  desire  for  the  salvation  of  souls. 
On  these  occasions  Chalmers,  in  the  most  simple  and 
natural  way,  feeling  the  presence  of  a kindred  spirit, 
opened  his  heart  as  he  never  could  in  public.  As  he 
talked  you  saw  the  wild,  fierce  face  of  the  cannibal 
soften  at  the  story  of  the  Cross ; j'ou  trod  with  the 
intrepid  missionar)-  across  the  beach  to  the  chief’s  hut, 
not  knowing  whether  you  would  return  alive ; you 
sat  at  the  Lord’s  Table  with  men  and  women  who  but 
a few  years  before  had  eaten  their  enemies  ; you  clung 
to  the  boat  as  she  swung  backward  and  forth  on  the 
surge  until  the  wave  came  big  enough  to  float  you  over 
the  reef  and  into  the  lagoon,  beyond  the  reach  of  the 
thundering  and  dangerous  surf  To  have  spent  even 
one  such  hour  wfith  James  Chalmers  was  a blessed 
memory  and  an  uplifting  inspiration  for  a lifetime. 

It  would  be  only  wearisome  to  detail  even  the  largest 
meetings  he  attended,  and  the  most  important  centres  he 
visited.  His  services  were  eagerly  sought,  not  only  by 
the  Congregational  churches,  but  by  all  the  evangelical 
free  churches,  and  he  became  undoubtedly  the  missionary 
most  widely  known  in  all  these  circles.  But  his  corre- 
spondence, although  the  letters  of  this  date  are  the 
briefest  of  the  brief,  is  full  of  self- revealing  glimpses. 

'September  i8,  1894. 

‘ I came  here  last  Friday.  We  are  having  good 
refreshing  times  here.  I attended  an  intensely  in- 


TAMATE  IN  1895. 


Deputation  Work  417 

teresting'  prayer- meeting  at  Stapleton  Road  after  the 
service  on  Sunday  evening,  and  last  night  at  Urijah 
Thomas’s  place  there  was  the  largest  prayer-meeting 
I ever  saw,  and  the  feeling  was  solemn  and  earnest. 
Funds  leap  up  here  without  difEculty,  because  of  much 
prayer  for  His  kingdom.  Bristol  sustains  its  traditions. 
I wish  every  missionary  who  comes  home  could  attend 
these  Bristol  meetings,  and  get  his  soul  warmed  and 
fired  to  white  heat.’ 

‘ West  Hartlepool,  Deceinber  i8,  1894. 

‘ We  drove  out  yesterday  and  had  a sniff  of  dear  old 
briny,  and  I heard  voices  calling  me  away.  Watching 
and  hearing  the  long  swish  on  the  beach  created  a great 
longing  to  leave,  and  be  with  my  own  New  Guineans  on 
that  south-east  coast.  I want  to  hear  the  music  of  the 
breaking  seas  there.’ 

' Jamiary  16,  1895. 

‘ There  was  a splendid  gathering  at  the  City  Temple, 

but did  not  turn  up  in  time  for  his  speech,  and  so 

Berry  had  to  lead,  and  he  did  it  splendidly.  I was  in 

hopes had  forgotten  the  meeting,  and  felt  equal 

to  an  hour;  but  just  before  Berry  finished  he  came  in, 
and  after  singing  got  up,  and  instead  of  twenty-five 
minutes  took  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and  had  a lady 
soloist  that  he  wished  to  sing,  and  Johnson  had  to 
announce  the  lady,  so  that  I had  five  minutes  left. 
I protested  against  speaking  at  all,  but  Berry  persuaded 
me,  and  I spoke.  I had  a splendid  reception,  and  could 
not  but  say  something.  Had  Berry  not  been  there, 
I should  have  only  bowed  and  sat  down.’ 

In  January,  1895,  a meeting  of  the  members  of  the 
Cheshunt  Union  was  held  at  Cheshunt  College.  The 
main  objects  of  the  meeting,  which  lasted  three  days, 

D d 


4i8  The  Second  Visit  Home,  1894 

were  to  renew  old  colleg-e  fellowship,  to  cultl\'ate  the 
spiritual  hfe,  and  to  consult  with  and  to  encourage  one 
another  in  ministerial  life  and  work.  A feature  of 
touching  and  pathetic  interest  was  the  fact  that,  as 
Dr.  Reynolds  was  on  the  point  of  resigning  the 
Principalship,  this  was  the  last  gathering  of  the  kind 
over  which  he  would  preside.  The  old  students  grate- 
fully and  lovingly  commemorated  this  by  a presentation. 
The  presence  of  Chalmers  greatly  heightened  the  interest 
and  helpfulness  of  the  meetings.  None  of  those  who 
were  fortunate  enough  to  be  present  will  forget  those 
meetings.  Chalmers  entered  into  the  fun  and  frolic 
Avith  all  the  zest  of  his  old  student  days ; and  he  also 
in  no  small  degree  intensified  the  spiritual  uplifting  of 
the  serious  meetings. 

o 

‘The  College,  Cheshl^nt,  January  22, 1895. 

‘At  the  station  yesterday  I met  a large  host  of 
Cheshunt  men,  and  they  ga\’e  me  a hearty  welcome  to 
travel  with  them.  "\^"e  had  noisy,  hearty  receptions  for 
one  and  another  all  round.  In  the  evening  there  was 
a sweet,  heart}*,  happy  meeting.  i\Ir.  New  presided, 
spoke  splendidly,  and  administered  the  ordinance  of  the 
Lord’s  Supper  in  a grand  spirit  of  love. 

‘The  dear  old  Doctor  was  present.  We  sat  up  until 
morning.  The  Doctor  looks  better,  but  is  vet*}'-  feeble. 
He  engaged  in  prayer  this  morning.  There  are  about 
fifty  present.  The  missionaries  have  aU  spoken  and 
done  well.’ 

^January  23,  1895. 

‘ We  had  an  inspiring  meeting  last  night.  The  subject 
was  “ ^Ministerial  Work.”  This  morning’s  meeting  will 
never  be  forgotten.  The  speakers  were  Dawson, 
Thomas,  Thompson,  and  MTiitehouse,  who  were  filled 


The  Cheshunt  Union 


419 


with  the  spirit  and  spoke  from  the  heart  to  the  heart. 
Then  came  the  grandest  of  all,  the  dear  old  Doctor,  in 
response  to  a present  of  an  album  beautifully  got  up  and 
containing  the  greater  part  of  our  names.  He  spoke  as 
very  near  to  God  and  brought  us  into  the  very  Presence. 
His  old  self  frequently  flashed  forth,  and  we  again  saw 
and  heard  him  as  in  the  days  of  old.  His  very  soul 
touched  ours,  and  we  were  lifted  up  out  of  ourselves. 
We  burned  with  fire,  and  we  sobbed,  and  then  at  the 
close  we  stood,  clapped,  stamped,  cheered,  and  felt  ’twas 
grand  to  be  Christ’s.  These  meetings  were  worth  my 
coming  home  for.  We  were  on  the  mount,  and  could 
have  wished  for  tabernacles  to  remain  there.’ 

Immediately  after  this  helpful  break  in  the  routine  of 
life,  Chalmers  resumed  his  laborious  round  of  deputation 
work.  The  winter  was  severe,  and  the  intense  cold  was 
a trial  to  him. 

‘ February  6,  1895. 

‘ I feel  bad,  and  if  I get  worse  I shall  make  for  home. 
It  is  only  a cold  in  the  head  and  chest.  I ought  to  be 
thankful  it  is  not  worse,  and  it  may  be  considering  this 
Arctic  weather.  Arnold  Thomas  of  Bristol  and  myself 
are  the  guns  to-day.  Griffith  John  is  not  coming  home. 
I am  sorry  for  it,  as  he  could  take  many  of  my  places. 
He  is  so  weU  known,  and  such  a capital  deputation 
that  the  change  would  please  the  folk.  Here  is  snow 
again.  New  Guinea  is  paradise  after  this.  I agree  with 
the  natives  who  have  learned  a little  pidgin  English, 
and  who  say,  “ My  word,  no  gammon,  he  cold  like  hell.”  ’ 

One  of  the  most  notable  gatherings  which  Chalmers 
addressed  was  a centenary  gathering  on  behalf  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  held  in  the  Free  Church 
Assembly  Room,  Edinburgh,  on  the  evening  of  March  1 1, 
1895.  The  gathering  differed  little  from  the  many 

D d 2 


420  The  Second  Visit  Home,  1894 

great  meetings  then  being  held,  save  that  Sir  t^'illiam 
^Macgregor  was  in  the  chair.  He  had  been  Governor 
of  Xew  Guinea  for  seven  years,  he  knew  the  countr)' 
as  no  other  living  man,  he  had  seen  with  his  own  eyes 
all  parts  of  the  ^Mission,  and  he  was  a keen-witted, 
competent  man,  well  fitted  alike  by  training  and  ex- 
perience to  form  a sound  judgement.  Hence  his 
testimony  to  the  value  and  the  influence  of  Christian 
Missions  in  Xew  Guinea  is  worthy  of  the  most  careful 
consideration,  and  may  well  outweigh  that  of  some 
omniscient  modern  editors,  correspondents,  traders,  and 
globe-trotters. 

From  Sir  William’s  speech  as  chairman,  which  was 
extensively  circulated  at  the  time,  two  or  three  para- 
graphs deserve  the  careful  attention  of  aU  who  are 
concerned  for  the  evangelization  of  Xew  Guinea.  How 
well  worthy  of  study  the  whole  of  it  is  these  passages 
show. 

‘ Let  me  now,  looking  at  the  subject  from  the  Govern- 
ment point  of  view,  tell  you  what,  in  my  opinion,  has 
been  and  is  the  value  of  our  missionaries. 

‘ First  of  all,  the  London  Missionaiy'  Society  has  done 
a considerable  amount  of  exploration  work  that  has 
fallen  to  the  others  only  in  a much  smaller  degree. 
Their  greatest  explorer  has  been  the  Rev.  James 
Chalmers.  This  gentleman  has  been  the  first  European 
to  travel  over  large  distances,  and  is  the  original 
discoverer  of  the  great  Purari  River.  I am  bound  to 
say  that  I never  knew  of  one  single  instance  in  which 
his  explorations  did  any  harm.  They  have  undoubtedly 
been  productive  of  much  good  at  veiy  many  points. 
I have  seen  him  called  in  an  official  report,  “ The 
Apostle  of  the  Papuan  Gulf."  There  is  nothing 
strained  in  the  definition. 


Sir  W.  Macgregor's  Testimony  421 

‘ As  a teaching  body  the  London  Missionary  Society, 
In  the  teeth  of  great  and  many  diflSculties,  has  effected 
much  good  in  New  Guinea.  Its  stations  are  as  yet 
practically  confined  to  the  coast  line,  and  even  on  this 
they  are  sometimes  separated  by  great  intervals,  which 
leave  numerous  populous  tribes  totally  unprovided 
with  teachers.  There  are  certainly  many  hundreds 
of  tribes  living  inland  from  the  coast  stations  who  have 
not  heard  of  a missionary,  and  who  can  never  be  taught 
from  the  posts  now  established.  To  reach  these  a great 
accession  of  strength  is  required,  and  a different  and 
more  extended  plan  of  campaign  will  be  necessary. 
Native  teachers  born  and  reared  in  coast  villages  will 
never  take  kindly  to  residence  inland ; the  boys  and 
youths  of  the  interior  will  not  as  a rule  remain  long 
enough  at  the  coast  to  acquire  the  training  of  eflScient 
teachers.  European  Missionaries  must  therefore  leave 
the  coast  and  take  up  permanent  stations  among  the 
tribes  of  the  interior  and  educate  the  future  inland 
teachers  on  the  spot.  It  may  be  said  at  once  that  New 
Guinea  must  be  taught  eventually  by  native  teachers. 

‘ Let  me  say  a word  for  the  coloured  teacher.  He,  \ 
poor  simple  soul,  leaves,  at  our  call,  his  own  little  world 
and  warm-hearted  friends  in  the  South  Seas  to  devote 
his  efforts  to  his  fellow  men  in  an  unknown  country. 

I believe  some  eight  of  the  Society’s  teachers  have  been 
murdered  by  our  natives.  How  many  of  you  ever  heard 
of  those  eight  men  ? Had  they  belonged  to  our  own 
race  we  should  all  have  known  much  more  about  their 
career,  their  suffering,  their  martyrdom.  Scores  of  them 
have  died  splendidly  and  silently  at  their  posts.  Let  me 
remind  you  that  often  less  courage  is  required  to  perform 
a brave  and  daring  deed  on  the  impulse  of  the  moment 
than  is  needed  in  the  man  that  remains,  as  the  native 


422  The  Second  Visit  Home,  1894 

teacher  does,  at  an  obscure  and  difficult  post  for  a pro- 
longed term,  especially  when  he  knows  that  he  will  get 
no  credit  of  any  kind  for  his  performance.  The  work 
of  the  South  Sea  teacher  has  the  misfortune  of  not 
appealing  to  the  imagination.  Only  those  that  see  his 
work,  and  understand  him  and  his  surroundings,  can 
appreciate  him  and  sympathize  with  him.  Any  missionar)’- 
will  starve  himself  to  provide  hospitality  for  his  guest — 
I have  known  it  done  often — and  the  poor  coloured 
teacher  is  certainly  no  less  hospitable  than  the  white 
missionary.  Now  what,  except  the  promises  of  the 
Gospel  and  the  approval  of  his  own  conscience,  has 
the  coloured  teacher  to  look  fonvard  to  as  his  reward  ? 
In  a month  or  two  after  he  ceases  to  work  his  very  name 
fades  like  an  echo. 

‘ It  would  not  be  proper  for  me  to  speak  of  the  work 
of  spiritual  conversion.  That  for  some  time  to  come 
will  probably  have  to  be  waited  for  in  New  Guinea, 
where  there  is  a singular  want  of  development  of  the 
religious  instinct,  of  the  kind  that  can  be  readily  con- 
verted into  enthusiasm.  Missionaries  will  for  some  time 
3'et  have  to  be  content  with  a decent  demeanour  in 
church,  and  a formal  compliance  with  religious  observ- 
ances. Their  teaching  will  eventually  touch  deeper 
the  hearts  of  their  hearers.  Another  great  drawback 
to  a rapid  development  of  mission  work  is  the  absence 
of  chiefs  or  men  of  influence.  We  have  in  New  Guinea 
no  Madimir  to  command  baptism;  no  Clovis  to  lead 
the  way  on  which  all  must  follow.  The  missionarj' 
must  study  the  personal  character  of  each  individual 
Papuan,  for  he  will  find  each  one  a separate  undertaking 
on  an  independent  footing;  and  he  wiU  not  meet  with 
any  religious  fervour. 

Let  me  assure  you  that  there  can  be  no  finer  mission- 


Breakdown  in  Health 


423 


field  in  the  world  than  that  now  held  by  this  Society  in 
British  New  Guinea.  There  is  a large  population  of 
people  without  any  trace  of  literature,  with  no  religion, 
without  an  alphabet,  living  in  the  stone  age,  and  of 
good  intellectual  qualities.  What  has  been  already 
done  there  proves  that  the  mission  can  make  Christians 
of  that  interesting  people  ; and  that  you  can  also  lend 
important  aid  in  making  them  valuable  economic  sub- 
jects of  this  empire.’ 

Early  in  June,  while  in  Birmingham,  Chalmers  had 
a severe  breakdown,  and  was  for  a time  quite  seriously 
ill.  The  strain  through  which  he  had  for  months  been 
passing  was  greater  almost  than  any  man  should  be 
called  upon  to  bear.  Yet  his  own  eager  desire  to  do 
all  that  he  could,  and  the  imperative  demands  for  his 
presence  that  would  take  no  denial,  combined  to  pro- 
duce the  disaster.  Happily  rest  and  his  own  vigorous 
constitution  speedily  brought  him  back  again  to  his 
working  level.  Genially  he  himself  placed  the  respon- 
sibility upon  our  climate.  ‘ This  Laodicean  weather  is 
what  upset  me.  In  the  winter  I knew  where  I was,  but 
feeling  uncomfortable  in  heavy  things  I went  into  lighter, 
and  then  another  change  came,  or  I entered  a cold  belt 
between  Sheffield  and  Birmingham,  and  so,  not  pre- 
pared, I was  thrown  over.  On  Sunday  I was  truly  ill 
but  got  up  to  show  myself  at  Carr’s  Lane.  My  voice 
was  quite  gone,  and  I was  in  a raging  fever  (105°),  and 
my  friends  here  would  not  let  me  out,  so  I quietly 
collapsed  and  got  somehow  to  bed.’ 

Inveraray  by  this  time  was  so  impressed  with  the  great- 
ness of  her  son  that  the  burghers  of  that  ancient  town 
determined  to  confer  upon  Chalmers  the  highest  honour 
in  their  power — the  freedom  of  the  city.  Early  in 


424  The  Second  Visit  Home,  1894 

August  he  made  his  way  there  to  fulfil  numerous 
engagements.  On  August  i the  Duke  of  Arg^^ll  had 
written  to  !Mr.  Meikle  Wyhe  has  forwarded  me  the 
letter),  ‘ I shall  be  delighted  to  give  the  Pavilion  to 
Mr.  Chalmers.  So  glad  to  see  him  again,  he  is  a man 
to  be  proud  of.’  But  though  the  Duke  honoured  him, 
the  climate  did  not.  On  August  12  he  wrote  from 
Inveraray : — 

‘ We  got  here  on  Saturday,  and  had  a ver}'  fine  trip, 
all  the  Meikles  are  well.  On  Saturday  night  the  rain 
descended  as  it  knows  how  to  in  Inveraray,  and  kept  on 
until  eleven.  It  remained  fine  until  7.15  when  it  forgot 
it  had  rained  a deluge  all  night,  and  began  in  greater 
earnest  than  ever,  continued,  I suppose,  all  night,  and 
is  now  (10.30)  hard  at  it,  just  as  if  it  had  done  nothing 
for  the  last  six  months. 

‘ It  was  dr)'  for  the  clan  gathering  yesterday  afternoon, 
and  there  was  a great  attendance,  I go  to  the  Castle 
by  request  this  afternoon.  They  were  ver)'  affable 
yesterday  after  the  service.  Many  came  in  from  long 
distances.  The  town  is  as  it  was  in  the  beginning, 
unchanged,  but  the  people  have  changed.’ 

The  presentation  ceremony  took  place  in  the  In- 
veraray Court-house,  and  was  attended  by  a considerable 
number  of  townspeople,  and  also  by  many  visitors. 
The  Council  minute  deciding  to  admit  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Chalmers  a free  burgess  and  a gaiild  brother  in  recogni- 
tion of  ‘ his  career  as  a missionar)-  and  his  eminent 
services  in  the  cause  of  civilization  and  the  spread  of 
the  Gospel  among  the  heathen  ’ was  Inscribed  on  parch- 
ment, and  was  presented  to  !Mr.  Chalmers,  enclosed  in 
a silver  roll  casket  bearing  the  burgh  seal  and  Mr. 
Chalmers’  monogram,  and  richly  chased  with  Celtic 
ornaments  and  a design  of  Scottish  thisdes. 


Freedom  of  Inveraray  425 

The  local  papers  thus  reported  his  speech  on  this 
occasion : — 

‘ Mr.  Chalmers  said  he  had  had  many  honours  in  his 
life-time.  He  had  been  initiated  into  the  tribes  of  New 
Guinea,  and  received  by  them  as  a brother,  in  which 
connexion  Mr.  Chalmers  gave  an  interesting  description 
of  the  rites  of  the  tribes.  He  had  also  had  a recognition  of 
his  work  as  an  explorer — although  he  had  never  claimed 
to  be  an  explorer ; his  object  had  always  been  to  be 
considered  a Christian  missionary — a bringer  of  real 
civilization  to  savage  and  cannibal  tribes.  After  the 
most  important  of  his  travels  his  services  were  recognized 
by  the  Geographical  Society  of  Germany.  Then  followed 
recognition  by  the  various  societies  of  the  Australasian 
colonies.  When  he  returned  to  this  country  nine  years 
ago,  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  did  him  the  honour 
of  presenting  its  diploma — which  was  also  held  by  their 
great  countryman.  Dr.  Livingstone — and  of  making  him 
an  ordinary  member.  But  considering  even  all  these 
things  from  societies,  literary  and  scientific,  nothing  gave 
him  greater  pleasure  than  the  act  which  had  been  done 
that  day  in  making  him  a free  burgess  of  their  royal 
burgh.  He  thanked  them  sincerely,  and  trusted  that  his 
future  career  might  be  even  more  brilliant — if  there 
had  been  any  brilliancy  in  the  past — than  it  had  been. 
On  an  occasion  of  that  kind  he  could  not  but  look  upon 
the  past  and  remember  the  days  of  his  boyhood  in  that 
old  town.  When  he  looked  round  he  saw  many  who 
were  boys  with  him.  It  might  interest  the  younger 
members  of  the  town  to  know  that  he  was  one  of  the 
first  volunteers  in  Inveraray.  He  was  also  a member  of 
the  first  cricket  club  established  in  that  part  of  the 
Highlands,  and  he  was  considered  one  of  the  first-class 
football  players  of  the  district.  Indeed,  at  that  time 


426  The  Second  Visit  Home,  1894 

there  were  few  things,  bad  or  good,  that  took  place  in 
Inveraray  that  he  did  not  have  something  to  do  with. 
Remembering  the  past  he  had  a feeling  of  joy — he  did 
not  wish  to  be  egotistical,  but  one  could  not  help  feeling 
it  now — at  their  recognition  that  day.  It  was  done,  he 
believed,  not  merely  because  he  spent  his  bo)"hood  in 
the  town — although  but  for  that  the  casket  would  never 
have  been  put  into  his  hands — but  because  he  had  tried 
in  the  past  to  do  his  duty,  the  duty  that  God  gave  him 
to  do.  He  had  never  been  able  to  look  far  ahead,  but 
he  had  tried  every  day  to  do  every  day’s  work  as  well 
as  ever  he  could.’ 

‘Inveraray,  August  19,  1895. 

‘ ’Tis  over  and  your  humble  friend  is  now  “ a burgess, 
freeman,  and  guild  brother  ” of  the  roj^al  and  ancient 
burgh  of  Inveraray.  The  ceremony  was  short  and  sweet. 
The  Provost  presented,  and  Tamate  replied.  I am 
greatly  pleased  with  the  honour  and  am  now  sorry 
I did  not  give  a much  better  reply,  but  it  was  Inveraray, 
and  I feel  more  nen’ous  speaking  here  than  anywhere 
else.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Meikle  and  old  friends  are  greatly 
delighted.  Yesterday  I spoke  to  Free  Church  friends, 
and  in  the  afternoon  addressed  my  old  Sunday  school, 
descendants  of  my  own  chums  many  of  them.’ 

Chalmers  during  his  stay  in  Britain  had  several  inter- 
views with  jMr.  Arthington  of  Leeds.  Of  these  meetings 
no  record  is  extant  save  a reference  to  the  fact  that 
Chahners  could  obtain  from  him  no  direct  help  for  his 
work  in  New  Guinea.  It  is  not  impossible,  however, 
that  this  intercourse  may  have  been  among  the  in- 
fluences that  induced  Mr.  Arthington  to  bequeath  so 
large  a sum  as  he  did  to  the  London  iMissionar^'  Society. 

Chalmers  left  England  on  his  return  to  New  Guinea 
on  November  13,  1895. 


CHAPTER  XII 


THE  FLY  RIVER,  1896-1901 

The  closing  section  of  Chalmers’  autobiography 
briefly  summarizes  the  work  and  experiences  of  the 
last  stage  of  his  New  Guinea  life.  This  section  is 
printed  here;  and  then,  as  in  previous  chapters,  the 
narrative  is  supplemented  from  the  private  corre- 
spondence of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers. 

‘I  arrived  at  Saguane  on  Jan.  20,  1896,  and  started 
houses  at  once,  having  determined  to  make  our  central 
station  there.  We  took  down  the  Dauan  house,  and 
shipped  the  material  to  Saguane.  Maru  was  of  the 
greatest  possible  help,  being  a carpenter,  and  willing, 
and  he  carried  through  all  the  work,  and  did  it  well. 

‘ The  school  was  a poor  affair,  and  for  a long  while 
the  roll  went  up  and  down  between  two  and  fifteen ; yet 
I felt  sure  God  had  something  for  us  to  do  there,  and 
we  plodded  on.  By-and-by  we  got  over  thirty  scholars, 
and  my  heart  rose  with  the  nmnbers.  We  built  a good 
schoolroom,  and  a boys’  house,  and  took  in  boys  from 
all  round.  It  was  dreech  uphill  work,  teaching  A,  B,  C 
to  wild,  sprightly  savages,  and  for  long  it  seemed  as  if 
they  would  never  setde  down  to  it.  How  terribly 
irksome  was  the  discipline  of  the  boys’  house  and 
schoolroom ! Time  passed,  and  with  changes  in  the 
lads  the  irksomeness  passed  away,  and  the  majority 
took  pleasure  in  the  school. 

* My  wife  joined  me,  and  took  great  interest  in  the 


428 


The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

work.  Her  class  went  ahead,  and  all  seemed  to  aim  to 
get  to  her.  After  her  death  there  were  five  that  we 
made  pupil  teachers ; in  fact  we  could  have  done  the 
same  with  her  whole  class.  The  greatest  punishment 
we  had  was  to  send  a child  away  out  of  school ; but  we 
had  not  to  go  to  that  extreme  often.  Our  highest 
average  was  one  hundred  and  nine,  and  continued  at 
that  figure  for  nearly  two  j'ears. 

‘ We  had  frequent  visits  from  strangers,  but  especially 
at  New  Year  time,  when  as  many  as  2,000  would 
assemble  at  Saguane  for  nearly  a week,  and  attend  all 
the  services,  in  many  cases  returning  home  to  hold 
ser\uces  in  the  same  way.  At  many  places  the  service 
morning  and  evening  amounted  to  no  more  than 
striking  for  some  time  a piece  of  angle  iron,  not  a word 
being  spoken,  for  they  knew  not  how.  How  my  heart 
aches  for  them  ! Ah  well ! He  sees  it  all. 

‘ The  sea  was  encroaching,  and  as  this  continued  year 
after  year  there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  move  to  Daru. 
Having  received  from  the  Government,  for  building 
purposes,  a piece  of  land  on  the  south  end  of  the 
Government  ridge,  I decided  to  begin  in  September, 
1901.  I had  a good  man  for  the  work  in  Anana, 
a South  Sea  Island  teacher,  settled  at  lasa.  We  feel 
that  aU  kinds  of  work  belong  to  Christ,  and  he, 
believing  the  same,  wilhngly  undertook  to  put  up  all 
the  houses.’ 

Thus  abruptly  ends  the  narrative  of  the  autobiography. 

A careful  consideration  of  the  map  will  enable  the 
reader  to  appreciate  the  nature  of  Chalmers’  field  of 
work.  Since  the  settlement  of  Dauncey  at  Helena,  and 
of  Holmes  at  Jokea  he  had  been  relieved  of  the  prime 
responsibility  for  the  mission  work  from  Port  Moresby 
as  far  west  as  Toaripi.  The  ambition  that  now  possessed 


Chalmers'  New  Work 


429 


him  was  twofold.  He  longed  to  establish  in  the  delta  of 
the  huge  Fly  River  a firmly  established  base  whence 
missionary  evangelization  could  proceed  up  the  river, 
thus  gaining  access  to  wild  tribes  at  present  entirely 
unknown.  He  also  believed  that  in  time  this  might 
prove  a way  into  the  heart  of  New  Guinea.  Then  from 
those  early  days  when  he  had  discovered  the  Purari 
Delta,  and  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  splendid  but 
ferocious  savages  of  Namau  and  the  Bald  Head  district, 
it  had  been  his  great  desire  to  make  friends  with  the 
untamed  and  fierce  skull-hunters  of  the  Aird  River.  By 
securing  a foothold  there  he  felt  that  the  conquest  of  the 
coast-line  would  be  complete,  and  then  right  round  from 
Daru  in  the  west  to  Kwato  in  the  east  the  chain  of 
stations  would  be  unbroken. 

But  his  first  work  at  this  period  was  the  superinten- 
dence of  the  stations  scattered  over  the  Torres  Straits 
on  various  islands,  from  Murray  Island  in  the  south  to 
Bampton  Island  in  the  north.  These  communities  were 
small  in  numbers  and  widely  scattered.  To  visit  them 
repeatedly — and  only  by  this  means  could  the  work  of 
the  native  teachers  be  rendered  effective — involved  con- 
stant voyages  in  either  the  tiny  mission  schooner,  or  in 
the  still  smaller  and  more  cramped  whaleboat.  The 
whole  region  is  one  in  which  navigation  is  of  the  most 
diflficult  order ; stormy  weather  is  frequent,  and  the 
squalls  exceedingly  violent,  and  the  task  of  landing 
on  the  different  islands  toilsome  and  dangerous.  To 
pastoral  visitation  of  this  nature  the  last  years  of 
Tamate’s  life  were  devoted. 

Saguane,  on  the  island  of  Kiwai  in  the  very  jaws  of 
the  Fly  River  Delta,  was  chosen  as  his  base,  on  Chalmers’ 
fundamental  principle  of  always  stationing  himself  as 
near  as  possible  to  the  strategic  point  for  work.  And  if 


430  The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

the  doing  of  this  involved  hardship  and  the  excitement 
of  danger  so  much  the  more  he  liked  it.  Probably  no 
less  inviting  spot  in  the  whole  region  could  have  been 
found.  It  was  low,  desolate,  swampy  land,  only  a few  feet 
above  the  sea  level,  and  it  finally  had  to  be  abandoned 
because  of  the  encroachment  of  the  resistless  waters. 
But  here  at  Saguane,  when  not  off  upon  his  visitation 
voyages,  Chalmers  spent  days  and  weeks,  patiently 
instructing  savage  children  in  the  rudiments  of  know- 
ledge, and  conducting  simple  daily  services  of  prayer  and 
praise  with  handfuls  of  natives  who  came  but  slowly  to 
any  comprehension  of  the  meaning  of  the  actions  in  which 
they  took  part.  He  was  ever  seeking  and  ever  gaining 
more  and  more  hold  upon  the  savages  who,  attracted  by 
his  residence  there,  and  by  his  irresistible  personality, 
came  in  the  first  instance  to  see  what  they  could  either 
get  or  steal  from  the  white  man,  and  ended  by  being 
compelled  under  his  constraining  influence  to  surrender 
all  the  worst  features  of  their  savagery.  It  would  be 
hard  to  find  in  the  whole  mission  field  a more  striking 
instance  of  surrender  to  duty  than  that  of  Chalmers,  the 
intrepid  explorer,  the  man  who  w^as  never  happier  than 
when  keenly  reading  the  faces  of  hitherto  unseen  savages, 
the  man  whose  services  were  sought  by  learned  societies 
all  over  the  world,  who  could  thrill  vast  audiences  by  the 
power  of  his  personality  and  the  burning  force  of  his  en- 
thusiasm, patiently  giving  himself  to  the  w'ork  of  an  infant 
school  teacher  with  the  savage  children  of  Saguane. 

The  correspondence  of  himself  and  of  Mrs.  Chalmers 
for  the  years  1896  to  1901  illustrate  the  work  they  did, 
and  the  experiences  through  which  they  passed. 

‘Saguane,  February  17,  1896. 

‘Rob  Roy  (Sir  William  Macgregor)  was  here  last 
week.  His  first  hail  was,  “ I am  glad  you  are  back. 


Chalmers  in  School 


431 


Chalmers,  you  are  much  wanted.”  He  looks  well, 
though  much  thinner,  and  he  says  not  so  fit  for  work. 
Since  he  returned  from  Britain  he  has  only  been  three 
weeks  at  Port  Moresby  ; on  the  go  all  the  time.  He 
wanted  me  to  go  with  him,  but  I could  not,  I am 
required  here,  I fancy, 

‘ I am  struggling  with  the  language,  and  fancy  I can 
crawl,  if  not  toddle,  between  chairs.  We  get  a fair  service 
on  the  Sunday,  but  our  schools  are  poor,  wretchedly 
poor.  Yesterday  a chief  prayed,  and  he  was  very 
particular  about  “ we  much  want  tobacco,  calico,  and 
tomahawks,  and  knives.”  The  teachers  are  always  in 
a hurry  to  have  baptisms,  and  I have  myself  yielded 
too  easily  to  them,  finding  out  my  mistake  afterwards. 
Better  far  wait  until  those  who  wish  to  be  baptized  have 
received  the  Holy  Ghost.’ 

‘ Saguane,  July  29,  1896. 

‘ I have  been  travelling  for  the  last  three  months, 
visiting  stations.  I ought  not  to  be  here  now,  but  got 
tired  of  knocking  about  in  boats  and  small  vessel, 
playing  captain,  mate,  and  pilot,  and  doing  mission 
work,  without  much  comfort,  and  often  wet  from  morn- 
ing to  night.  Now  I am  only  squatting  a bit  before 
carrying  on  my  visitation  to  finish.  I am  greatly  pleased 
with  the  evident  progress  of  the  last  few  years,  and 
remembering  the  past  and  the  introduction  of  the 
Gospel  my  heart  is  filled  with  thankfulness,  and  I am 
strengthened  for  all  future  work. 

‘ We  are  beginning  to  be  felt  here.  There  is  a yearly 
snake-worship  [Kina)  here,  and  people  come  from  all 
parts  to  it.  It  is  a regular  gathering  of  the  tribes. 
The  worship  is  indescribably  filthy,  beats  anything  I 
know  of  or  have  ever  read  of.  The  two  last  gatherings 
were  times  of  much  sickness  and  many  deaths,  and  the  old 


432  The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

men  and  sorcerers  have  met  and  said  that  it  was  because 
many  were  forsaking  Kma,  and  coming  to  us.  They 
are  calling  for  a rail}-  round  their  ancient  faith,  saying 
also  that  we  are  only  vagrants,  and  will  soon  be  gone, 
and  warning  all  against  us.  They  urge  that  none 
should  come  to  our  services,  and  no  children  attend 
our  schools.  The  effect  is  none  came  to  services,  and 
the  school  was  forsaken. 

‘ On  my  return  here  I heard  all  this,  and  then  I 
spoke : “ The  Gospel  has  come  to  stay,  and  it  will  give 
light  and  life  by  leading  men  to  Christ ; the  filthy 
tvorship  of  Kina  will  soon  be  forgotten,  and  all  who 
knew  it  will  be  ashamed  of  it.  I expect  ser\fices  to  be 
attended  by  all,  and  all  the  children  to  come  to  school.” 

‘ ^^"e  have  had  well-attended  sen’ices,  and  the  children 
now  come  to  school  with  great  avidit)'.  They  fancy  my 
style  of  teaching,  and  think  the  play  just  capital  fun. 
These  old  sinners  and  sorcerers  are  calhng  for  another 
turn  of  Kina^  but  I say  “ Xo,  it  must  not  be.”  ’ 

On  August  7,  in  reply  to  a letter  from  the  author, 
in  which  he  had  been  urging-  Chalmers  to  leave  on 
record  his  own  sketch  of  his  adventurous  life,  he 
wrote : — 

‘ I do,  my  dear  friend,  remember  your  request  as  to 
my  autobiography,  and  I will  attend  to  it  when  I can 
swallow  enough  egotism  to  put  it  on  paper.  I have 
really  got  as  far  as  noting  down  the  main  points,  but 
grew  tired  of  myself,  and  so  put  away  the  notes.’ 

‘Saguane,  December  i8,  1S96. 

‘ Last  Wednesday  I came  in  from  a ten  weeks’  visita- 
tion of  all  my  stations,  and  those  in  Elema  belonging 
to  !Mr.  Holmes,  who  has  had  to  go  away  for  his  health. 
At  many  of  the  stations  a good  work  is  being  carried 


Nearly  wrecked  at  Vailala  433 

on,  and  the  schools  are  well  attended;  at  others  they 
need  more  life,  more  go.  We  had  some  uncomfortable 
experiences  in  our  voyages.  The  worst  was  at  Vailala, 
when  coming  out  of  the  harbour  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  The  wind  was  light,  and  there  was  a heavy 
swell  on  the  bar,  but  there  was  enough  wind  to  take  us 
through  with  the  strong  current  running  out.  I took 
the  precaution  to  see  the  ports  closed  and  sky-lights 
down,  as  I expected  to  have  some  heavy  seas  on  board. 
As  we  neared  the  bar  the  wind  fairly  dropped,  and 
before  we  could  anchor  we  were  taken  on  towards  the 
west  point,  where  a fearful  sea  was  breaking,  and  the 
current  sweeping  round  it.  Seas  and  current  drove  us 
on  to  the  bank,  and  for  a short  time  it  looked  as  if 
vessel  and  all  on  board  must  go.  The  anchor  was  of 
no  use ; it  rather  increased  the  danger,  so  orders  were 
given  to  slack  out  every  inch  of  chain  and  so  let  the 
seas  drive  her  in  over  the  bank  and  through  the  outer 
lines  of  breakers.  It  was  hard  work  holding  on  to  the 
rigging,  as  sea  after  sea  swept,  smashed,  and  crashed  on 
our  decks. 

‘ We  were  seen  from  the  shore,  and  a whaleboat, 
manned  by  natives  paddling  in  charge  of  a white  trader, 
worked  their  way  out,  and  we  being  now  in  better 
water,  got  us  off.  A large  double  canoe  also  came  to 
our  assistance.  To  make  a long  story  short,  we  got 
ashore  aU  right,  and  when  the  tide  went  out,  returned 
and  landed  everything  movable,  picked  up  the  anchor, 
and  on  the  next  tide  about  100  natives  got  her  into 
a kind  of  a lagoon.  It  took  a week  to  get  her  into 
deep  water,  and  as  time  was  getting  short  I took  to 
canoeing  and  did  about  seventy  miles. 

‘ The  natives  have  it  that  all  the  trouble  occurred 
because  of  some  gods  I had  obtained  from  an  old 

Ee 


434 


The  Fly  River,  1896-igoi 

sorcerer  and  had  on  board.  The  natives  say  they  are 
the  ancestors  of  all  other  gods,  and  that  their  wrath  was 
great  for  my  having  been  allowed  to  have  them.  Before 
we  were  taken  off  the  vessel,  so  sure  were  the  natives 
that  we  were  all  done  for,  that  east  and  west  the  news 
spread,  “Avea’s  gods  have  destroyed  Tamate  and  his 
vessel,"  Poor  Avea  is  in  the  border  land,  betwixt 
light  and  darkness,  and  gave  me  the  gods,  saying  he 
knew  I would  look  after  them,  as  he  wanted  them  no 
more.’ 

In  a letter  to  one  of  his  most  Intimate  correspondents, 
under  date  of  July  14,  1897,  Tamate  describes  in  his  own 
style,  and  in  full  detail,  one  of  his  voyages  of  visitation  in 
Torres  Straits.  It  may  be  taken  as  typical  of  scores  of 
similar  voyages,  and  enables  the  reader  to  follow  very 
closely  and  clearly  the  nature  and  quality  of  the  work, 
and  the  conditions  of  his  missionary  life  at  this  period. 
The  discomforts  of  this  particular  trip  appear  to  have 
been  somewhat  lighter  than  usual. 

‘ Some  years  ago  I used  to  wonder  what  sort  of  a 
place  heaven  would  be  without  sea ; now  I am  glad,  at 
all  events  at  present,  “ no  more  sea.”  I have  had  quite 
enough  of  it  lately.  Come,  let  us  have  a trip.  We  have 
done  with  the  east,  but  Torres  Straits  and  the  Fly  River 
have  yet  to  be  visited.  Wood  and  water  are  on  board, 
the  morning  is  fine,  so  down  to  the  beach  and  on  board 
the  whaleboat.  The  tide  is  nmning  strong,  and  it  is 
a hard  pull  to  get  alongside  of  the  Niue.  Here  we  are ! 
just  step  on  deck  when  the  boat  rises.  Bob  of  Aitutaki 
is  our  captain,  a good  old  salt,  and  our  mate  is  Lui  of 
Samoa,  a very  good  fellow  and  a good  sailor.  The 
crew,  two  lads  from  Saguane,  who  now  do  very  well. 
We  have  with  us  two  boys  to  cook  and  steward  for  us, 
and  this  helps  to  keep  them  out  of  mischief.  Jimi,  the 


Pastoral  Work  in  Torres  Straits  435 

elder,  is  a half-caste  Torres  Straits  lad.  His  father  was 
a Scotsman ; a nice  lad,  very  willing,  and  very  clean. 
Agere  is  from  Saguane,  a smart,  passionate  youth,  who 
ran  away  from  me  last  year,  and  came  back  some  time 
ago,  begging  me  to  allow  him  to  return. 

‘ The  Niue  is  fifteen  tons,  has  a very  comfortable  cabin, 
but  no  cargo  room.  She  is  a very  wet  boat  if  there  is 
much  of  a sea  on.  There  is  about  forty  fathom  of  chain 
out,  so  “ Heave  short.  Enough,  now  up  mainsail  and 
back  again  to  windlass.”  “ Anchor  up,”  “ Up  jib,”  “ Up 
staysail.”  “ Give  her  the  foresail  quick.”  We  are  away 
and  standing  across  the  mouth  of  the  Fly  River.  Just 
a little  sea,  not  unpleasant. 

‘ On  the  other  side,  as  I want  to  visit  one  of  our 
stations,  we  try  to  get  as  near  land  as  possible,  and  so 
save  the  long  wading  through  mud.  “ Down  foresail 
and  try  the  lead.”  We  are  about  a mile  and  a half  off. 
“ One  and  a half,”  and  that  keeps  on  for  some  distance. 
“ One  fathom.”  “ Go  round.”  We  cannot  anchor  here, 
for  when  the  tide  is  out  we  should  be  ashore  and  on  our 
beam  ends,  a most  uncomfortable  position.  We  stand  away 
now  to  our  anchorage  off  Neva  Pass,  and  as  the  tide  is 
too  far  out,  and  would  necessitate  a long  wade  and  a long 
walk,  I shall  defer  my  visit  until  the  early  morning. 

‘ At  six  in  the  evening  the  teacher  comes  off  in  a canoe 
and  gets  his  supplies — trousers,  shirts,  undershirts,  white 
calico,  unbleached  calico,  prints,  tobacco,  soap,  rice,  flour, 
knives,  tomahawks — about  worth  altogether.  The 

anchorage  is  good,  and  so  for  a good  sound  sleep. 

‘ There  they  come,  dashing  forth  from  the  east,  just 
a little  after  five,  the  sun’s  steeds,  and  we  get  ready. 
“ Bring  the  dingey  alongside.”  Jimi  and  one  of  the 
crew  pull  ashore.  The  tide  is  well  up,  and  we  land 
beyond  the  mud.  There  is  a walk  of  about  two  miles, 

E e 2 


436  The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

but  we  get  to  the  village  before  the  people  have  shaken 
themselves  together,  “ Ring  the  bell,”  and  a piece 
of  old  iron  is  struck  with  a large  spike  nail.  The 
queerly  built  church  is  soon  filled,  and  we  have  a service 
and  then  school.  We  adjourn  to  the  mission  house, 
have  a talk  and  then  a meeting  with  the  people  who 
have  been  baptized.  Several  pray.  I am  now  ready  to 
return  to  the  vessel  so  as  to  catch  the  tide,  but  must 
wait  a little  as  the  people  are  anxious  to  give  me  a small 
present,  and  they  bring  me  yams,  which  are  very  accept- 
able, as  the  crew  have  only  rice  on  board. 

‘ We  get  to  the  vessel  and  soon  have  breakfast.  It  is 
too  late  to  visit  the  station  on  Bampton  Island  unless 
you  would  like  a wade  of  three  miles  through  slush  and 
mud.  I don’t  care  for  it,  so  put  it  off  until  I return, 
“ Heave  away,  my  lads,  and  let  us  get  through  the  Pass.” 
I call  this  place  Purgatory  because  of  the  mosquitoes 
and  the  time  occupied  in  getting  to  the  other  side.  The 
tide  is  low,  and  we  cannot  cross  the  banks  between 
Bampton  and  Daru,  so  must  anchor  on  west  of  Pur- 
gatory and  wait  for  tide.  At  six  we  up  anchor  and 
stand  across  the  sandbanks,  with  just  enough  water  to 
float  us  over,  and  at  eight  p.m,  we  anchor  in  a snug 
anchorage  under  the  lee  of  Daru.  As  we  are  going 
into  Queensland  waters  I must  have  a permit  for  my 
boy  Agere  and  a clearance,  so  ashore  and  secure  these 
to  be  ready  for  an  early  start. 

‘ At  six  the  following  morning  we  are  away,  and  it  is 
now  blowing  hard.  To  make  comfortable  weather  of  it 
we  shall  to  the  leeward  of  the  Warrior  Reef.  Blowing 
fresh,  yet  it  is  very  comfortable,  so  have  a big  read  and 
as  big  a sleep.  We  want  to  pick  up  Moon  Pass,  and 
go  through,  and  then  beat  over  to  Damuth,  where  we 
hope  to  anchor  to-night.  We  have  left  one  pass  behind, 


A Stiff  Beat 


437 


and  here  is  another,  and  this  must  be  Moon.  We  beat 
in  and  are  on  the  other  side,  but  can  find  no  opening 
out,  so  take  an  opening  more  to  the  south,  and  find  we 
are  going  back  and  eventually  out,  having  only  cut 
a bit  of  the  reef.  We  continue  on  close  hauled,  but 
come  to  no  other  opening. 

‘ It  is  now  five  o’clock,  so  must  get  ready  to  anchor 
for  the  night.  “ Try  the  lead.”  “ Three  fathom,  sir.” 
“ All  right,  keep  on.”  “ Two  fathom,  sir.”  “ Down 
foresail,  down  jib,  down  staysail,”  up  in  the  wind  and 
away  goes  the  anchor.  Just  at  sundown  all  assemble 
and  we  have  service.  Very  few  days  pass  that  we  have 
not  morning  and  evening  service. 

‘ We  have  had  a good  night  and  a good  sea  sleep.  It 
is  now  5.30,  but  we  cannot  see  the  reef,  so  wait  for 
sunrise.  Have  had  coffee  and  service  and  now  away. 
We  had  better  keep  right  on  to  the  end  of  the  Warrior 
Reef,  and  go  between  Tut  and  Dungeness.  The  tide  is 
running  out  against  a strong  south-easter,  and  there  is 
a nasty  sea  in  the  Channel.  By  three  p.m.  we  are  fairly 
through  and  standing  up  for  Damuth.  At  sundown  we 
could  not  see  the  island,  and  the  weather  is  not  agree- 
able and  looks  as  if  it  might  be  much  worse.  We  must 
find  an  anchorage,  so  beat  up  to  that  small  island, 
Rennel,  ten  miles  off.  It  is  a stiff  beat,  but  we  are  at 
anchor  by  nine.  It  is  dark,  and  in  getting  near  the 
island  we  had  to  be  cautious,  for  in  the  dark  it  is  impos- 
sible to  say  how  far  off  it  may  be,  and  the  anchorage 
will  be  close  to  the  shore  reef.  “ Down  foresail.”  The 
lead  is  going,  “ No  bottom  at  twenty.”  “ Down  stay- 
sail,” “ Luff  her  right  up,”  “ Now  take  a cast  of  the 
lead.”  “ No  bottom  at  twenty.”  “ Keep  her  away 
a little.”  “ Fourteen  fathom,  sir.”  “ Anchor  in  ten.” 
On  we  go.  “ Twelve,”  a little  more.  “ Ten  fathom,  sir.” 


438  The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

“ Down  jib,  hard  up,  pull  in  main  sheet.”  “ Let  go,” 
and  we  are  at  anchor. 

‘ We  look  very  near  to  the  white  shore,  but  the  wind  is 
blowing  off,  so  all  right.  Now  to  sleep,  and  not  a sound 
is  heard  all  night  on  board.  All  hands  on  deck  at  5.30, 
a duU,  dark,  windy  morning.  There  is  Damuth,  so  we 
weigh  and  stand  across.  At  8.30  we  anchor  close  to 
the  small  village.  Having  finished  breakfast,  I land  with 
Jimi,  my  boy,  who  has  relatives  here  and  who  all  want 
to  embrace  him,  but  he  is  just  that  age  he  doesn’t  like 
it  and  turns  away  his  head.  The  whole  population 
numbers  twenty,  and  the  services  during  the  week  and  on 
Sabbaths  are  conducted  by  Johnnie,  a native  of  tlie  island, 
who  can  just  read  but  no  more.  The  piece  of  iron  is 
struck  and  all  assemble,  and  we  have  an  interesting 
meeting.  There  is  no  school,  Johnnie  could  not  do  that. 
He  is  an  evangelist,  and  has  £,2  worth  of  things  to  get, 
which  he  receives  with  great  delight. 

‘ By  eleven  we  were  away.  Blowing  a gale,  so  we 
had  to  reef  down  everything.  I want  to  call  at  Ogar 
(Stephens),  but  there  is  too  much  sea  on,  so  we  beat  up 
to  Darnley.  Eh,  it  is  a beat  against  a gale  of  wind  and 
hea\y  seas.  At  ten  we  anchor  on  the  lee  side,  where 
there  are  about  a dozen  pearl-sheUing  boats  at  anchor. 
AH  are  glad  to  turn  in  and  enjoy  the  sleep  which 
refreshes  ; I am  very  glad  indeed. 

‘ The  next  day  is  Sunday,  so  our  mate  lands  early,  and 
after  breakfast  and  a short  meeting  with  the  crew  1 
land,  to  get  a wetting  by  slipping  off  a stone  into  the 
water.  Never  mind,  I want  to  take  the  forenoon  ser\’ice, 
so  hurry  on  over  the  two  miles  to  the  village.  W’e 
have  a good  gathering  and  a good  servace.  I find  the 
Murray  Island  teacher  and  his  wife  and  bairns  here  on 
their  way  to  Saibai,  so  I need  not  visit  his  island.  M’e 


A Wade  to  Service 


439 


have  a good  prayer-meeting  in  the  teacher’s  house. 
I sent  Lui  off  to  bring  the  vessel  round  to  the  village 
anchorage,  and  so  save  a long  walk  in  the  evening. 
The  afternoon  service  was  also  a good  one,  but  I was 
not  satisfied  with  the  school.  I got  on  board  by  5.30. 

‘At  noon  we  weighed  and  stood  away  for  Ogar. 
Three  p.m.  anchored,  and  although  tide  is  out,  into 
dingey  and  ashore.  Old  boots  on  for  a long  reef  wade, 
and  then  walk  on  soft  coral.  There  are  twenty-two 
people  on  the  island,  and  of  these  seven  are  church 
members.  The  church  is  down,  and  we  had  service 
under  a banian  tree  growing  near  the  village.  Jack, 
the  chief,  acts  as  evangelist.  He  says  they  are  going 
to  put  up  a new  church  very  soon.  Church  building  is 
in  the  air  at  present.  In  Jack’s  house  we  had  a meeting 
for  prayer.  I said,  “Jack,  no  many  man  stop  along 
Ogar  now,  before  he  all  the  same.”  His  face  became 
sad,  then  lightened  up,  and  he  answered,  “ My  word,  no 
gammon,  true,  good  true,  no  man  stop  along  here  now, 
before  plenty,  plenty  man,  big  village,  he  stop  along  here,” 
and  then  I felt  sorry,  as  he  added  with  a feeling  voice, 
“ All  he  go,  all  he  dead.”  I brought  him  on  board  with 
me  and  gave  him  things.  The  Darnley  Island  teacher 
often  visits  them. 

‘ The  next  morning  we  are  away  just  after  sunrise, 
and  in  a few  hours  are  at  Masig.  Into  dingey  and  ashore, 
and  have  meeting  with  people,  and  spend  a few  hours 
with  them.  The  tide  is  now  out,  so  we  must  get  the 
boat  carried  out  into  deep  water,  and  then  wade  out. 
We  give  the  evangelist  his  things  and  up  anchor  and 
away.  Before  sundown  we  anchor  off  Cocoa-nut  Island, 
but  no  people  on  it.  The  boys  all  land  to  get  firewood 
and  look  for  turde  eggs.  The  latter  not  to  be  had. 

‘ Another  day  with  an  angry  sky  and  now  blowing 


440 


The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

great  guns,  and  outside  a big  sea  running.  Never  mind, 
let  us  away.  Reef  her  down,  weigh,  and  off.  Roughish, 
not  pleasant,  but  by  9.30  we  are  anchored  at  ^^^araber. 
Only  five  people  ashore,  with  whom  we  hold  sendee  on 
the  beach.  All  the  others,  sixteen  in  number,  and  chief 
are  on  Yam. 

‘ On  board,  up  anchor,  and  now  with  a fair  wind  stand 
over  to  Yam.  Fine  seas  are  rolling  up  behind  us,  but 
we  ship  none.  At  1.30  we  drop  anchor  near  to  shore- 
reef  off  Yam  Island.  Ashore,  where  I find  a teacher 
who  formerly  was  at  ilauata,  but  had  to  leave  because 
of  blindness,  and  who  for  some  months  has  been  on 
Darnley  and  got  better,  but  not  sufficiently  so  to  return 
to  New  Guinea,  ^^"e  have  an  interesting  service  and 
then  a meeting  for  pra5*er.  I have  decided  to  place 
the  teacher  here,  where  there  is  good  land  for  building 
and  planting;  and  being  central  he  can  take  charge  of 
all  the  small  islands,  gather  their  children  in,  and  teach 
them  in  English,  which  he  can  do.  He  is  a Lifuan,  and 
a ver)'  good  fellow. 

‘ I go  on  board  for  a bit,  and  at  5.30  land  for  evening 
sendee.  The  chief,  l\Iaino,  is  evangelist,  and  delighted 
that  he  is  to  have  a teacher,  saying,  “You  see,  aU  children 
grow  up  now,  no  savee  nothing.”  I feel  for  the  children. 

‘ That  night  we  had  a proper  rocking,  but  did  not 
sleep  well.  Six  am.  away  for  !Moa,  and  at  twelve  we 
were  off  the  village,  but  not  a soul,  not  a H\*ing  thing  to 
be  seen,  and  no  intimation  stuck  up  as  to  where  the  people 
were.  Up  anchor,  and  away  to  Badu.  “ That  water  looks 
queer ; trj'  the  lead.”  “ One  and  a half,  sir.”  “ Keep 
her  away.”  We  are  on  a sand-bank  I knew  nothing  of. 
AH  right,  we  are  soon  in  deep  water,  and  stand  in  to  the 
Badu  reef.  Strange,  not  a liHng  being  about.  Run 
down  again,  stand  up,  no  use,  so  shape  away  for 


A Self-willed  Teacher 


441 


Mabuiag-,  and  there  we  anchor  at  four  p.m.  Not  many 
men  at  home,  out  on  the  Orman  reef  looking  for  shell, 
and  our  teacher  also. 

‘ Things  are  askew,  and  the  cat  is  thought  to  be  far 
away,  and  the  mice  are  having  a game  of  their  own. 
I am  vexed.  In  March  I came  to  Mabuiag  and  arranged 
with  the  teacher,  a Samoan,  not  to  build  the  church  at 
present,  but  prepare  for  it  by  cutting  wood  and  collect- 
ing money  gradually,  as  the  famine  is  great,  and  the 
people  will  require  rice  and  flour  and  will  have  to  pay 
for  it  in  shell.  A few  weeks  after  I left,  he,  by  hard 
pressure,  got  £215  together,  started  for  Thursday 
Island,  arranged  to  have  a church  put  up.  Many  of  the 
people,  and  the  chief,  want  delay  ; oh  no,  my  lord  must 
have  his  own  way,  and  when  I arrive  a church  is  up, 
built  of  cheap  soft  wood  and  not  what  we  wanted. 
I am  vexed,  but  more  so  to  find  him  away,  and  to  hear 
that  for  a long  time  there  has  been  no  school. 

‘ Saturday  comes,  and  I have  a serious  talk  with  him 
and  inform  him  that  he  will  have  to  leave.  A change 
will  do  him  good,  and  he  can  come  to  my  part  of  New 
Guinea,  or  join  the  Samoan  contingent  in  the  Port 
Moresby  district.  No,  he  will  go  home.  Right,  but 
do  not  decide  now,  think  about  it,  pray  about  it.  The 
bell  is  rung  and  there  is  a large  gathering,  as  all  are 
now  ashore.  We  have  a good  service,  and  at  the  close 
I propose  opening  the  church  to-morrow  (Sunday),  and 
it  is  agreed  to.  I feel  doubtful,  and  fancy  they  will 
change  their  minds.  I sleep  on  board. 

‘ Sunday  morning  early,  Jimi  brings  my  coffee,  and 
says,  “ Plenty  Mabuiag  men  come  now.”  I know  what 
is  up,  a deputation  from  the  people  to  put  off  opening 
until  October,  that  having  spent  so  much  money  they 
may  have  a grand  occasion.  “ Well,  yes,  I will  try  and 


442 


The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

meet  your  desire,”  and  so  October  16  is  fixed.  We  had 
a grand  day  ashore,  and  in  the  afternoon  quite  a field 
time;  many  speakers.  Many  have  been  to  me  asking 
me  to  remove  the  teacher  at  once,  but  that  I cannot  do, 
and  it  would  be  cruel  not  to  let  him  have  part  in  the 
church  opening. 

‘ On  Monday  morning  we  got  away,  and  out  by  the 
' Brothers,  and  then  up  to  Dauan,  but  not  a soul  at  home, 
then  across  to  Saibai  to  find  many  natives  in  from  all 
quarters,  and  all  Saibaians  busy  preparing  for  church 
opening  on  Wednesday.  Up  until  midnight,  boats  and 
canoes  are  coming  in. 

‘ On  Tuesday  many  more  arrive.  I am  ashore 
arranging  programme,  and  have  a visit  to  new  church. 
It  is  a fine  building,  built  and  paid  for  entirely  by  them- 
selves. They  gathered  together  and  have  £<^ 

left.  These  people  were  savages  when  I came  to  New 
Guinea,  and  a couple  of  years  before  inveterate  skull- 
hunters.  Now  they  have  the  finest  church  in  all  the 
New  Guinea  and  Torres  Straits  Missions,  and  all  their 
own.  If  that  is  not  evidence  of  the  Gospel’s  power, 
what  can  be  ? 

‘ Wednesday  morning  at  nine  I land  ; at  ten  we  form 
in  procession  in  front  of  mission  house  and  march  to 
church,  when,  the  keys  being  handed  to  me,  I open  the 
door,  and  in  a few  words  pronounce  the  church  open.  It 
is  soon  crowded,  and  then  we  have  prayer  and  singing. 
Then  I pray  Solomon’s  prayer  at  the  dedication  of  the 
Temple,  again  sing,  and  a short  address.  Sing,  and  two 
minutes’  addresses  are  given.  Thirty  have  spoken,  with 
singing  interspersed.  The  collection,  £21.  Another 
hymn  and  prayer  and  all  away  to  feasting. 

‘ The  largest  feast  I have  seen  since  I left  the  South 
Seas.  Cooked  and  uncooked  food  in  great  heaps,  and 


A Torres  Straits  Feast 


443 


forty -six  cooked  pigs  and  nine  uncooked.  I do  not 
know  anywhere  in  New  Guinea  where  such  a feast  could 
be  had.  The  dividing  was  a complicated  puzzle,  but  in 
a few  hours  unravelled.  I left  them  to  finish.  When 
in  church  we  had  severe  wind  and  rain.  The  Saibai 
youths  were  dressed  in  dark  Norfolk  jackets  and  knee- 
breeches,  with  long  white  stockings,  no  boots  or  shoes. 
The  women  were  dressed  in  Turkey  red  dresses,  black 
hats,  with  red  binding  as  ribbons.  The  whole  was  a 
great  success. 

‘ On  Thursday  morning,  after  taking  the  Kunini  teacher 
and  his  wife  and  Parama  and  Wigi  teachers  on  board, 
we  weighed  anchor  and  stood  away  to  the  east; 
fortunately  the  weather  moderated  and  we  were  able 
to  stand  in  near  shore.  At  one  we  landed  the  Kunini 
teacher  and  wife,  and  at  5.30  we  anchored  off  Daru. 
The  Niue  has  to  go  east,  and  I landed  and  got  a coast 
clearance.  A wet  night  right  through  and  a dark 
tempestuous  morning.  Never  mind,  let  us  away. 
When  out  in  the  passage  it  was  blowing  a gale,  and 
dark  and  wet,  and  looked  bad,  so  we  put  back  to  our 
anchorage  and  remained  until  the  following  morning. 

‘ The  weather  is  better  to-day,  so  we  up  anchor  and 
away.  We  anchored  in  two  fathoms  to  wait  for  high 
water  to  get  over  the  banks,  and  at  six  were  away 
again,  to  stick  fast  for  about  half  an  hour,  and  then 
into  the  Pass,  Purgatory.  Our  progress  was  slow  and 
the  mosquitoes  were  bad,  but  there  is  an  end  even  to 
Purgatory,  and  at  nine  p.m.  we  anchored  on  the  eastern 
side.  By  eleven  the  teachers  were  landed. 

‘ We  had  a good  night’s  rest.  Service  with  crew, 
breakfast ; and  meeting  for  prayer  with  captain  and 
mate.  Now  ashore,  it  is  a long  pull,  and  we  may  get 
stranded.  A mile  from  the  village  we  have  to  leave 


444 


The  Fly  River,  1896-igoi 

the  dingey,  off  boots  and  socks,  buckle  up  and  into 
mud  and  water.  Not  a bit  pleasant.  We  are  late,  the 
pull  was  long  and  the  wading  was  longer.  In  mission 
house  meet  many  of  the  people,  then  prayer-meeting, 
and  arrange  for  afternoon  service,  and  Ordinance  of 
the  Lord’s  Supper.  We  had  a good  time.  I got  on 
board  by  6.15  p.m. 

‘ By  six  a.m.  Monday  morning  we  are  bowling  across 
the  mouth  of  the  Fly  River,  and  shortly  after  nine  drop 
anchor  off  house  at  Saguane.  Thank  God  for  aU  His 
goodness  and  mercy.’ 

In  August,  1897,  Mrs.  Chalmers  reached  Saguane, 
more  than  three  years  after  she  had  left  Toaripi. 
‘ I did  look  round  the  house,’  she  writes,  ‘ in  despair 
when  I came.  I look  round  now,  just  one  degree  re- 
moved from  it.  I am  feeling  very  languid  and  weak ; it 
is  the  change  of  climate,  I expect.  We  have  only  un- 
packed three  cases  yet,  but  I must  have  two  more  done 
to-day.  They  arrived  last  Saturday,  and  had  to  wait  of 
course  until  Monday  to  be  landed.  It  rather  worries 
me  to  do  things  in  a perspiring  crowd,  but  I shall  soon 
get  accustomed  to  it  again.  I have  not  the  heart  to  send 
the  natives  off,  they  are  so  curious  and  interested.  At 
present  I can  get  no  one  to  help,  and  the  washing  done 
at  the  teacher’s  needs  a revolution,  but  I must  have 
patience  and  do  little  by  little.’ 

Mrs.  Chalmers  found  both  place  and  people  at  Sagu- 
ane very  different  from  the  stormy  beach  and  the  wild 
savages  she  had  learned  to  love  at  Toaripi.  But  she 
soon  set  herself,  for  the  Master’s  sake,  to  the  duty  of 
loving  and  caring  for  the  degraded  children  and  natives 
around  her.  On  Dec.  i,  1897,  she  wrote: — 

‘ My  children  are  a handful,  perfect  young  savages, 
and  if  anything  goes  wrong,  they  fight  tooth  and  nail, 


445 


Savagery  of  Saguane  Children 

the  former  being  the  favourite  mode.  Sometimes  I hear 
screams  and  yells,  as  if  some  one  was  being  murdered, 
and  I find  that  a boy  or  girl  has  made  her  teeth  meet  in 
the  flesh  of  another.  They  are  terribly  passionate ; and 
we  cannot  do  much,  for  they  would  set  off,  and  not 
return.  Tamate  says  the  work  went  on  here  a very 
long  time  before  any  one  came  about  to  stay.  So  we 
are  glad  to  have  the  boys  and  girls  round  us. 

‘ We  get  good  attendance  at  school,  although  most  of 
the  parents  discourage  their  children  from  coming.  The 
attendance  at  church  is  fairly  good.  I look  round  and 
long  to  see  some  sign  of  real  interest.  It  is  early  days 
yet,  and  we  must  just  work  on  in  patience.  I want  you 
to  pray  that  I may  grow  to  love  these  people.  I do  not 
feel  to  love  them  as  I did  my  Toaripians.  They  are 
a much  lower  type  than  the  latter ; they  are  so  mean, 
and  dirty,  and  selfish— but  Jesus  loves  them  all,  and  oh, 
how  they  need  His  love,  and  they  need  ours  too. 
Tamate,  bless  him,  seems  to  like  them  well,  and  shakes 
hands,  and  puts  his  arm  over  their  shoulders,  and  never 
minds  dirt  or  disease.’ 

At  this  time  Tamate  met  with  an  accident  that  might 
have  been  fatal,  and  the  results  of  which  troubled  him 
for  a long  time. 

‘Saguane,  February  9,  1898. 

‘ I have  been  out  of  sorts  for  a bit,  and  had  to 
give  in  quite  for  a few  days.  When  getting  better, 
and  at  translating  again,  I had  a bad  fall.  My  study 
is  approached  on  a bridge  from  the  house  to  the  study 
verandah.  Before  stepping  on  to  the  house  verandah 
there  is  a narrow  bridge  to  the  store,  one  side  of  which 
has  no  rail,  and  from  the  study  bridge  there  is  one  step 
on  to  it  and  then  turn  sharp  to  the  right.  The  night 
was  very  dark,  and  thoughtlessly  I marched  on  and 


44^  The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

stepped  over  and  had  a drop  of  nearly  twelve  feet.  I got 
shaken  and  my  right  side  and  my  leg  badly  bruised, 
and  for  three  weeks  have  been  doctorino-.  I seem  all 

o 

right  now  and  in  full  swing. 

‘ I am  reading  the  “ Sixty  Years’  Reign  ” copy  of  the 
Bible,  and  have  got  to  the  Psalms.  I read  from  Genesis 
to  Job  as  I would  history,  and  when  I have  time  in  the 
mornings.  The  devotional  parts  blow  sometimes  gently, 
sometimes  in  gales.  I get  caught  sometimes  bj'  a pro- 
phet with  a perfect  hurricane  and  drive  on  furiously, 
sometimes  it  is  a firm,  steady  breeze,  and  then  again  it 
is  a quiet,  gentle  breeze  wafting  one  along  in  a dreamy, 
easy,  restful  kind  of  way.  May  we  ever  just  be  in  touch 
with  Christ,  His  will  our  all.' 

Mrs.  Chalmers  took  great  interest  in  the  school  work 
at  Saguane,  and  her  next  letter  enables  us  to  realize 
some  of  the  heart-breaking  difficulties  and  trials  of  such 
work. 

‘ March  7,  189S. 

‘ The  people  are  not  a nice  lot,  even  for  savages  ; they 
are  terribly  deceitful,  and  will  not  help  us  in  any  way ; it 
is  difficult  to  get  them  to  do  any  work,  though  we  pay 
them  well,  and  often  we  cannot  get  them  to  sell  us  any 
food.  Xow  and  again,  if  they  are  ver)'  anxious  for 
clothing  (which  they  hke),  they  wdl  bring  in  food  and 
want  exorbitant  payment  I told  you  how  well  the 
school  was  doing ; well,  now  there  are  only  a very  few 
children  left  All  have  gone  to  the  great  vioguru,  and 
they  go  for  from  four  to  six  months.  The  children 
on  the  station  have  also  decamped — just  bolted  in  twos 
and  threes  during  the  nights.  The  immorality,  from 
our  standpoint,  is  fearful.  The  girls  here  aU  take  the 
initiative.  If  they  fancy  a man  or  boy  they  just  go  and 
fetch  him,  or  persuade  him  to  go  off  to  the  bush  with 


Native  Abominations 


447 


them  ; it  is  terrible  to  deal  with.  Parents  here  have  no 
control  and  never  correct  their  children.  Young  children 
of  six  or  seven  are  quite  independent,  and  go  off  in 
canoes  to  distant  dances  or  feasts,  and  say  nothing  to  any 
one.  No  uneasiness  is  felt,  as  every  one  treats  them 
kindly  and  feeds  them. 

‘ I could  weep  for  my  class  of  children,  who  could  read 
so  nicely  and  write  and  do  sums — if  they  come  back  in 
a few  months’  time  everything  will  be  forgotten.  This 
vile  moguru^  with  its  dancing,  feasting,  and  abomination. 
Most  of  the  boys  are  going  in  for  all  the  excitement 
of  their  first  initiation  ceremony.  The  people  do  not 
want  us,  but  Tamate  says,  for  that  very  reason,  we  must 
stay,  and  give  them  a real  chance : we  must  not  give 
up  too  soon.  It  is  strange  we  cannot  seem  to  get 
into  real  friendly  relations  with  them.  Tamate  says 
they  are  the  most  difficult  to  make  friends  of  that  he 
has  met. 

‘ I want  you  to  join  us  in  our  special  prayers  for  this 
people — who  harden  their  hearts,  and  will  have  none  of 
the  blessed  Gospel,  but  give  themselves  up,  for  half  the 
year,  to  terribly  evil  practices,  impossible  to  write  about. 
We  want  the  young  ones  for  Christ,  in  them  lies  hope — 
our  only  hope — for  the  future.’ 

In  May,  1898,  Chalmers  started  on  the  Niue  to  visit 
his  teachers  in  the  Straits,  and  fortunately,  as  it  turned 
out,  Mrs.  Chalmers  accompanied  him.  They  had  hardly 
started  when  one  of  the  worst  series  of  gales  ever 
known,  even  in  that  region,  overtook  them.  They  were 
compelled  to  take  refuge  at  Thursday  Island,  where  first 
Mrs.  Chalmers  was  laid  up,  and  then  Tamate  himself 
had  a dangerous  illness,  due  partly  to  the  fall  described 
above,  and  partly  to  the  exposure,  fatigue,  and  drenchings 
occasioned  by  the  terrible  weather  through  which  the 


448 


The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

Niue  passed.  Mrs.  Chalmers,  on  June  13,  wrote  home 
an  account  of  this  time  of  peril  and  suffering-. 

‘We  left  Saguane  !May  19,  and  had  a most  terrible 
time  in  these  Straits.  They  are  dangerous  at  all  times, 
anywhere  out  of  the  big  ship  channel,  and  every  island 
is  reef-bound — besides  the  sunken  reefs,  and  many  sand- 
banks. For  over  a fortnight  we  were  out,  and  battling 
with  awful  seas  and  constant  squalls  night  and  day. 
The  little  Niue  is  always  what  we  call  a wet  boat,  but 
during  this  time  she  had  seas  over  her  from  stem  to 
stern — and  often  the  water  came  into  the  cabin,  and  our 
mattresses,  pillows,  and  selves  were  soaked.  We  were 
beating  and  tacking  the  whole  time — anchoring  at  night 
under  lee  of  islands  or  reefs,  and  pitching,  rolling,  and 
dancing  the  whole  night ; only  twice  we  had  a quieter 
anchorage.  Tamate  was  on  deck  nearly  the  whole  day 
long,  wet  through  and  through,  but  obhged  to  be  there 
in  such  stormy  weather. 

‘We  \’isited  Yam,  iMasig,  and  Darnley  Islands,  and 
I managed  to  land,  under  difficulties,  at  the  two  last 
named.  We  could  not  sleep  ashore  on  any  of  them,  as 
there  was  no  good  teacher’s  house,  and  the  natives  said 
the  sand-flies  and  mosquitoes  were  very  bad.  It  was  a 
choice  of  two  evils,  and  I chose  the  restless  anchorage. 
Three  times  we  put  out  to  go  to  Murray  Island,  and 
had  to  run  back  before  the  wind  on  a tremendous  sea 
I shad  never  forget  our  experiences. 

‘ We  had  to  run  close-reefed,  and  Tamate  said  if  we  were 
driven  on  one  of  the  reefs  in  such  weather  ten  minutes 
would  leave  no  one  to  teU  the  tale.  At  last  Tamate 
decided  to  try  to  get  here,  and  we  started  once  more  in  a 
different  direction.  We  anchored  after  a stormy  day  at 
iMasig,  and  had  a rather  quieter  night.  Next  day  another 
bad  time — peak  halyard  carried  off,  and  squalls  following 


Cocoa-nut  Island 


449 


each  other  every  fifteen  minutes  or  so.  The  poor  little 
ship  was  so  battered  and  strained  by  the  big  seas,  that  it 
seemed  as  if  she  must  split  up.  She  must  have  sprung 
a good  bit,  for  the  water  began  to  rise  in  the  cabin,  and 
the  boys  had  to  work  the  pumps  often  to  keep  it  down  at 
all.  Anchored  at  Cocoa-nut  Island.  Tamate  landed. 
I was  too  ill  to  do  so,  but  from  the  deck  I could  see  the 
whole  of  the  few  inhabitants  and  the  few  houses.  There 
is  a poor  man  there  who  knows  only  that  God  is 
our  loving  Father  and  Creator  of  everything,  and  that 
Jesus,  His  Son,  is  our  Saviour,  and  died  for  us,  and 
that  it  is  wrong  to  lie,  and  steal,  and  murder,  and 
he  gathers  the  twenty  or  thirty  people  together  each 
day,  morning  and  evening,  to  pray  and  praise,  and 
he  tells  them  all  he  knows,  and  they  pray  for  more 
light.  He  tells  me  that  when  he  was  a boy  plenty  of 
natives  lived  there,  but  now  some  have  gone,  and  many 
have  died. 

‘ At  one  place,  on  a rather  large  island,  there  are  just 
sixteen  people  left.  They  live  happily  together,  and 
one,  who  knows  a little  of  religion,  acts  as  their  leader. 
He  has  quite  a pretty  little  church,  with  nice  shade  round, 
and  there  they  meet  every  day  for  morning  and  evening 
prayers.  We  could  not  get  over  the  reef  until  evening 
in  the  boat — and  our  service  w'as  held  by  firelight. 
Afterwards  we  all  sat  round  a big  fire  and  talked.  L 
felt  so  strange  to  think  we  were  all  alone  on  the  island. 
I asked  them  if  they  did  not  feel  lonely  sometimes — for 
they  are  out  of  the  way  of  boats.  They  have  a boat  in 
which  they  go  to  dive  for  shell ; it  belongs  equally  to 
all,  but  they  can  only  go  near  home.  Tamate  talked 
to  them  a long  time;  they  all  understand  “pidgin 
English  ” more  or  less ; then  I had  to  be  carried  over 
part  of  the  reef,  and  we  had  a dangerous  journey  over 

F f 


450  The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

the  rest — sometimes  bumping- on  the  sharp  rocks  ; it  was 
starlight,  but  no  moon,  and  cloudy. 

‘ Next  morning  away  from  here,  and  a fearful  time. 
Tamate  says  he  never,  in  all  his  twenty  years  round 
here,  encountered  such  winds  and  seas.  We  almost 
despaired  of  making  Thursday  Island ; when  at  last  we 
got  in  we  found  a great  many  boats  in  for  shelter. 
Tamate  was  obliged  to  rest  a few  days,  and  then  he 
would  go  on,  but  Dr.  Salter  forbade  my  attempting  to 
do  so.’ 

‘Thursday  Island,  July  8,  1898. 

‘ Tamate  returned  on  June  21,  very  ill  indeed,  and  had 
to  go  at  once  to  bed.  Doctor  pronounced  him  suffering 
from  rheumatic  and  malarial  fever,  and  also  from  the 
effects  of  his  fall.  \\'’e  have  had  a very  bad  time.’ 

Chalmers  was,  for  him,  very  slow  in  casting  off  the 
effects  of  his  severe  illness  at  Thursday  Island.  In 
a fashion  quite  his  own,  writing  on  August  19,  from 
Saguane,  he  longs  for  a disturbance  in  which  he  might 
intervene  as  a desirable  tonic  for  him. 

‘ I am  out  of  sorts,  and  as  lazy  as  they  make  them, 
though  I do  my  school  for  four  hours  a day,  but  lack 
zest  and  push.  I ought  to  be  up  and  joyful,  for  it  is  dawn 
with  us.  I have  a good  deal  of  nausea,  and  no  appetite. 
Tamate  Vaine  preaches  give  in,  but  if  I do  that  I might 
go  out  altogether.  She  is  not  over  bright.  The  season  is 
a wretched  one,  cold  and  wet,  and  much  sickness  about. 
I intended  writing  you  a long  letter,  but  I fear  “ no  can 
do.”  An  attack,  a fight,  a jolly  big  row,  might  rouse  me. 

‘ Some  months  ago  I had  run  down  a bit,  and  one 
morning  there  was  a big  row  in  the  village,  and  I was 
soon  fetched.  Getting  my  favourite  walking-stick  I went 
over,  and  before  me  the  combatants  fled,  and  I pursued 
some  distance,  overtook  the  leaders,  and  talked  fatherly 


Chalmers'  Idea  of  a Tonic 


451 


to  them.  Some  had  nasty  cut  heads,  and  others  bruised 
bodies.  It  was  all  about  a girl  who  ran  away  from  her 
friends  because  of  her  dislike  to  the  youth  they  wished 
her  to  marry.  I hoped  it  was  over,  and  had  the  bell 
rung  for  school.  Shortly  after  we  had  begun  I heard 
them  begin  again  with  their  fiendish  bowlings  and 
screamings.  A friend  fetched  me,  saying  they  had  got 
the  girl,  and  she  was  likely  to  be  murdered  between  the 
parties.  I seized  my  stick,  and  felt  militant.  The  arrows 
were  flying,  but  I hurried  on  to  the  centre,  where  there 
was  a fearful  scrimmage,  and  heavy  sticks  at  work. 
Holding  my  stick  above  my  head  for  defence,  I got  to 
where  the  girl  was  pulled  every  way  by  arms  and  legs, 
and  in  a faint.  One  flourish  of  the  stick,  and  a proper 
shout,  and  I had  the  girl  in  my  left  arm.  They  attempted 
to  close  round  me,  but  I warned  them  as  they  had  never 
been  warned  before,  and  I carried  the  girl  triumphantly 
inside  of  our  fence,  and  delivered  her  to  the  charge  of 
friends,  and  gave  orders  that  no  outsider  was  to  be 
allowed  in.  Poor  girl,  she  was  “ close  up  gone.”  Now, 
the  whole  business  was  quite  refreshing,  and  I felt  much 
better  after  it, 

‘ The  church  is  crowded.  Three  services  on  Sunday, 
and  three  have  come  inquiring.  At  Ipisia,  near  to  here, 
there  are  over  twenty  church  members.  I expect  soon 
we  shall  have  students.  W^’e  have  thirteen  nice  lads 
staying  here,  who  are  getting  on  well.  Throughout 
the  district  there  is  a moving  as  of  the  Spirit  of  God, 
and  an  anxiety  to  know  of  Jesus.’ 

In  the  closing  sentences  of  the  same  letter  he  says, 

‘ I should  not  like  to  become  a shelved  missionary  in 
Australia.  Far  better,  like  Lewis  \ when  the  time  is,  to 

‘ This  refers  to  his  friend  the  Rev.  Edwin  Lewis,  of  Bellary,  who 
had  died  suddenly  when  in  full  active  work. 

F f 2 


452  The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

go  hence  from  the  field.  Busy,  at  work,  and  away — 
guess  that’s  perfect.’ 

During  1898  a scientific  expedition  was  at  work 
in  Torres  Straits.  It  was  under  the  direction  of 
Dr.  Alfred  C.  Haddon,  who  had  visited  the  Straits  on 
a similar  errand  in  1888.  Chalmers  knew  Dr.  Haddon 
well,  and  was  able  to  be  of  seiadce  to  the  expedition  in 
several  ways.  The  members  of  the  expedition  visited 
him  at  Saguane.  He  was  also  never  averse  to  exacting 
in  return,  if  he  could,  aid  for  his  own  special  work. 

‘ Saguane,  September  21,  1898. 

* We  have  had  the  scientific  party  here.  They  staj-ed 
a few  days,  and  then  on  to  IMabuiag,  leaving  Ray  the 
philologist  at  my  request.  He  goes  with  me  next  week. 
He  is  quiet  and  entertaining,  with  a marvellous  memory 
for  languages,  and  great  aptitude  in  getting  to  know 
them  thoroughly. 

‘ We  got  Ray  to  talk  to  the  children  this  morning. 
He  is  a London  schoolmaster,  and  he  drilled  them 
thoroughly ; put  them  through  their  facings  in  real 
style,  and  the  bairns  are  delighted. 

‘ Ray  is  getting  all  sorts  of  songs  on  to  phonograph 
cylinders,  and  some  come  out  very'  well.  The  natives 
fancy  it  is  a ghost,  but  how  it  works  cannot  make  out.’ 

During  1898  there  was  considerable  uncertainty  as  to 
the  future  of  the  western  mission  of  New  Guinea,  and 
the  work  and  station  of  Tamate  himself.  Affairs  were 
not  going  well  financially  with  the  London  ]\Iissionary 
Society.  The  expenses  connected  with  the  Fly  River 
work  were  heavy.  Not  a few  competent  judges  held 
the  opinion  that  the  same  energy  and  money  spent  else- 
where would  yield  more  fruitful  results.  The  furlough 
of  Mr.  Hutchin  on  Rarotonga  was  due,  and  a plan 


453 


Signs  of  Blessing 

was  mooted  for  sending-  Chalmers  there  for  two  -years, 
partly  because  it  was  thought  that  this  would  benefit  his 
health,  partly  because  there  was  no  one  else  so  well 
qualified  to  take  Mr.  Hutchin’s  place.  But  fortunately, 
although  these  changes  are  referred  to  from  time  to  time 
as  possible,  and  even  probable,  none  of  them  came 
to  pass. 

‘Saguane,  October  2g,  1898. 

‘ I had  a good  inland  mission  in  the  beginning  of  the 
eighties,  but  had  to  leave  it  for  many  reasons,  chiefly 
no  help.  It  was  considered  too  costly,  and  the  young 
men  do  not  care  for  inland  work.  No  new  missionary 
has  done  anything  for  inland.  If  no  one  else  can,  then 
I will  gladly,  but  this  place  must  be  supplied. 

‘ Day  is  dawning  with  us,  and  we  expect  great  things, 
and  to  leave  this  post  now,  when  the  battle  is  nearly 
finished,  would  be  cowardice.  I mean  the  tough  fight 
of  a new  station.  Only  those  who  have  tried  it  know 
what  it  is.’ 

‘Saguane,  December  I,  1898. 

‘ God  is  blessing  our  work  very  abundantly,  and  many 
are  seeking  baptism.  Last  month  I baptized  at  Parama 
sixty-four,  and  at  Geavi  thirty-two,  and  at  each  place 
hosts  of  children.  Last  Sunday  I baptized  fourteen  here 
and  seven  children.  We  need  more  teachers  at  many 
places ; they  hold  services  and  do  their  best.  The  Master 
sees  it  aU,  and  will  bless  them.  Now  that  the  hard 
up-pull  is  easier,  the  long,  dreech  waiting  over,  I would 
gladly  give  up  to  a younger  man. 

‘ I fancy  our  school  is  the  best  in  the  mission.  Our 
average  is  fifty-three,  and  knowledge  is  mzich  more  than 
in  any  other  school.  Fancy  leaving  all  to  flow  back  again 
to  chaos.  A young  man  has  material  here  for  a grand 
up-river  movement  in  a few  years.  We  want  no  namby 


454 


The  Fly  River,  1856-1901 

pamby  youth,  who,  when  he  arrives,  begins  thinking  of 
the  time  to  go  home,  and  counts  the  months  as  they 
pass  as  so  much  less  to  serve.  If  you  know  a good 
all-round  manly  fellow,  inform  Mr.  Thompson  and  have 
him  sent  this  way.  No  nonsense,  dispatch  him  straight 
away,  and  we  will  then  go  wherever  desired.’ 

‘ Saguane,/««^  I,  1899. 

‘ There  is  a great  giving  up  of  idols  and  charms  in  the 
district.  The  Bull  Roarer  is  one  of  the  most  formidable 
things  in  the  native  cosmogony.  They  must  never  be 
seen  or  heard  by  women  or  children.  A few  days  ago 
there  was  a feast  at  Ipisia,  and  the  Bull  Roarer  was  going, 
and  women  and  children  in  bush.  I allow  no  native 
teacher  to  disturb  any  feast  except  by  teaching,  service, 
prayer.  Yesterday  the  men  with  w'omen  and  children 
in  the  village  began  using  the  dreaded  symbol,  and  in- 
vited all  to  come  and  see  it,  and  that  it  was  no  more  of 
use  but  for  children  to  play  with.  It  is  deafening  all 
round  here,  and  I have  had  to  order  my  boys  on  to 
the  beach  if  they  use  it.  Fancy,  for  centuries,  innumer- 
able generations,  the  Bull  Roarer  was  the  most  dreaded 
symbol  they  possessed,  and  to-day  it  is  the  plaything  of 
the  children. 

‘ There  are  many  anxious  for  baptism,  but  I prefer 
waiting.  May  they  grow  in  light  and  love ! May  they 
all  belong  to  Jesus  truly ! I long  for  a quiet  time  with 
earnest  Christian  folk  of  my  own  kind.  More  real,  true, 
burning  love  to  Christ  I want.  Just  to  be  His  altogether.’ 

Mrs.  Chalmers’  health,  which  had  begun  to  fail 
steadily,  necessitated  at  this  time  a visit  to  Australia. 
There  Tamate  joined  her  towards  the  close  of  her 
stay.  He  was  ever  alert  to  utilize  such  visits  and  the 
opportunities  they  afforded  for  stimulating  assemblies 


Visit  to  Baramura 


455 

and  for  consulting  friends  and  officials  so  as  to  benefit 
his  work. 

‘Thursday  Island,  September  5,  1899. 

‘ I was  able  when  south  to  assist  the  London  Mission- 
ary Society  somewhat.  We  had  wet  weather  all  the 
time.  We  had  to  go  overland  to  Brisbane  to  meet  the 
Home  Secretary  and  arrange  about  English  schools  in 
Torres  Straits.  He  is  delighted  with  our  mission  work, 
but  is  astonished  at  no-English  in  our  schools,  and  so 
will  appoint  a Harm  to  Darnley,  Mabuiag,  and  Saibai 
to  train  the  young  in  English  only.  We  could  not  do 
it,  so  I acquiesced.  Had  I not  been  south  I should  have 
had  to  go  from  here  to  meet  him,  as  it  is  a most  im- 
portant move.  He  is  anxious  to  work  with  us  and  do 
everything  to  assist  us. 

‘ Queensland  is  repenting  or  suffering  with  remorse, 
and  is  now  anxious  to  whitewash  the  past  by  doing  all 
she  can  now  for  the  living  aboriginals.’ 

Soon  after  his  return  Chalmers  was  off  up  the  river 
attempting  to  consolidate  friendly  relations  with  the 
natives. 

‘Saguane,  December  6,  1899. 

‘ I think  I told  you  of  our  visit  to  Baramura,  a village 
of  one  house,  nearly  700  feet  long.  The  people  were 
suspicious,  and  if  they  meant  mischief  we  did  not  give 
them  much  time  to  think  about  it.  We  bought  some 
bananas,  and  held  a service,  and  then  to  the  boat.  Now 
there  is  a sequel.  Baramura  is  some  distance  up  a creek 
off  the  river ; we  get  to  it  in  a boat,  anchoring  the  Niue 
in  the  main  stream.  When  we  run  short  of  food  here 
the  teacher  ascends  the  river,  holding  services  and  buying 
food  at  several  villages.  I sent  the  Niue  up  last  week, 
and  they  had  the  whaleboat  accompanying.  They 
anchored  the  Niue  off'  the  right  bank,  near  to  the  mouth 


456  The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

of  the  Baramura  creek,  then  landed  in  the  whaleboat. 
The  Niue's  captain,  anxious  to  see  a one-house  village, 
landed  with  two  of  a crew  in  the  dingey.  As  with  us 
a month  before,  not  many  natives  were  met  with,  and  no 
women  and  children.  ^^*e  met  only  one  woman  and 
no  children. 

‘ They  had  boug^ht  bananas,  and  were  about  to  hold 
a sendee,  looking  at  an  idol  some  distance  up  towards 
the  roof,  when  arrows  began  to  fly,  and  the\*  rushed  for 
the  boat,  but  could  nor  sit  to  the  oars.  The  teacher 
had  his  gun  with  him.  He  shot  a pigeon  the  night 
before,  and  there  was  left  one  cartridge.  He  fired  in 
the  air,  and  the  noise  astonishing  them  they  stopped 
firing  arrows  for  a few  seconds,  to  begin  with  more 
vigour  again.  In  the  cessation  thev  got  the  boats  near 
to  the  opposite  side  of  the  creek,  and  as  the  bank  was 
lined  with  natives  with  bows  and  arrows,  and  so  im- 
p>ossible  for  them  to  pull,  they  abandoned  the  boats  and 
took  to  the  bush,  and  made  for  the  river  bank,  where 
they  plunged  in  and  swam  off  to  the  Niue.  One  man 
got  an  arrow  in  his  left  arm. 

‘ Our  friends  at  Sumai,  hearing  the  boats  were  left, 
formed  a large  party,  and  went  to  Baramura  determined 
to  get  the  boats,  even  to  fight  for  them.  On  arriving 
there  cot  a soul  was  to  be  seen,  and  the  boats  lying  in 
the  creek  aU  right,  so  they  took  them  and  have  brought 
them  here.  God  truly  did  deliver  our  party.  I hope 
soon  to  give  them  a teacher.’ 

The  gatherings  of  the  New  Year  in  1900  passed  off 
successfully  and  hopefully,  and  with  many  tokens  that 
the  people  were  beginning  at  last  to  respond  to  the 
power  and  attraction  of  the  Gospel,  Mrs.  Chalmers 
wrote  on  Jan.  28,  1900 : — 

‘ Our  New  Year's  gathering  was  not  so  large  as  la.st 


The  Rev.  O.  C.  Tomkins 


457 


year — two  or  three  parties  came  much  too  soon,  and 
had  to  go  back,  and  one  contingent  came  too  late.  We 
had  over  1,700  visitors  though.  You  may  be  sure  it  was 
a busy,  tiring  time.  I was  not  able  to  be  about  much. 
I kept  up  till  all  was  given  out  to  our  own  people,  and 
all  arranged  for  the  feasts  and  sports.  We  had  just 
grand  hearty  meetings.  We  sat  down  300  at  the  Com- 
munion Service,  all  from  this  district.  After  the  large 
open-air  service  the  church  members  joined  in  com- 
munion in  the  church.  In  the  afternoon  another  large 
gathering  under  the  palms;  at  this  service  136  adults 
were  baptized,  these  from  various  places. 

‘ It  was  wonderful  to  think  of  these  people  of  various 
tribes  meeting  together  in  unity,  and  enjoying  themselves. 
Savage  strangers  here  for  the  first  time  were  much 
interested,  and  made  many  inquiries,  and  were  taught 
many  and  wonderful  things  of  the  Great  Father,  and 
His  Beloved  Son,  and  so  the  Light  spreads  around.’ 

In  April,  1900,  Chalmers  was  gready  relieved  and 
encouraged  by  the  arrival  of  a young  colleague,  the 
Rev.  Oliver  C.  Tomkins,  who  was  to  superintend  the 
Torres  Straits  Mission,  and  thus  leave  Tamate  free  to 
explore  the  Fly  River  and  to  attempt  to  extend  the 
mission  eastwards  from  that  river.  He  was  a colleague 
after  Tamate’s  own  heart,  a man  of  fine  physique,  of 
beautiful  spirit,  of  a missionary  enthusiasm  akin  to 
Chalmers’  own.  From  the  first  Tamate  loved  him. 
‘ He  will  do ; send  us  two  more  of  the  same  sort,’ 
was  the  message  the  veteran  sent  home  about  him. 
Through  the  trying  scenes  of  the  last  illness  of 
Mrs.  Chahners  he  was  as  a son  to  his  elder  colleague. 
‘What  can  I say  of  him  who  was  the  sharer  of  his 
martyrdom,’  said  Dr.  Lawes,  at  the  great  meeting  in 
the  Albert  Hall  in  May,  1901,  ‘except  that  he  had  won 


4s8  The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

all  hearts,  and  that  we  expected  great  things  from  him 
for  many  years  to  come?  A man  of  faith  and  prayer, 
mighty  in  the  Scriptures,  he  was  a great  help,  comfort, 
and  joy  to  Tamate.  He  W’ns  to  him  what  Timothy  was 
to  Paul,  his  “ dearly  beloved  son.”  ’ Such  was  the  man 
who  joined  Chalmers  in  the  work  in  1900. 

‘ Saguane,/«««  25,  1900. 

‘ The  bell  has  arrived,  and  is  already  calling  to  services 
and  school.  It  only  came  last  week,  and  was  fixed  up 
two  days  after.  It  is  now  ringing,  calling  to  school. 
Great  interest  is  attached  to  it  by  aU  because  it  was  the 
bell  that  called  Tamate  to  church  and  school  when  he 
was  a boy. 

‘ We  have  been  in  Torres  Straits  for  eight  weeks, 
introducing  Mr.  Tomkins  and  handing  over  the  work  to 
him.  He  is  a fine  fellow,  and  does  not  fear  work,  of 
which  he  will  have  an  abundance. 

‘ We  have  to  leave  here  because  of  the  sea  encroaching 
on  our  bit  of  land  and  eating  it  all  away.  The  governor 
has  kindly  given  us  land  on  Daru,  near  to  the  Govern- 
ment station,  and  we  are  now  busy  getting  the  frames  of 
houses  ready.  We  hope  in  a few  months  to  remove 
hence.  It  is  a big  job,  and  will  be  a little  expensive. 
This  station  has  cost  the  London  Missionary  Society 
nothing.  Your  cousin’s  handsome  gift  to  me  when  at 
home,  and  a smaller  one  from  Mr.  Allan,  Belfast,  has 
covered  all  expense.  I hope  the  present  removal  will 
be  done  as  cheaply  to  the  Society.  Pray  with  us  that  the 
money  sufficient  may  be  provided,  as  well  as  sufficient 
to  get  a new  vessel  suitable  for  river  work.’ 

The  bell  referred  to  was  that  which  used  to  hang  in 
Mr.  Meikle’s  church  at  Inveraray.  The  lease  had  fallen 
in,  the  church  had  been  given  up,  and  the  Duke  of 


Illness  of  Mrs.  Chalmers 


459 


Argyll,  at  Mr.  Meikle’s  suggestion,  allowed  the  old  bell 
to  be  sent  out  to  New  Guinea.  The  sounds  of  the  old 
bell,  which  carried  Tamate’s  recollection  back  to  his 
earliest  boyhood,  were  now  used  to  summon  the  natives 
of  Kiwai  to  service  and  the  children  to  school. 

In  July,  1900,  Mrs.  Chalmers  became  seriously  ill,  and 
as  week  after  week  passed  without  improvement,  it 
gradually  dawned  upon  them  both  that  there  was  only 
one  possible  end  to  her  sufferings.  As  a complement  to 
his  own  autobiography,  Chalmers  prepared,  during  his 
last  lonely  months  at  Daru,  a sketch  of  his  wife’s  life. 
The  first  portion  of  this  has  been  given  on  pages  315 
and  316.  The  latter  portion  tells  tenderly  the  story  of 
these  last  sorrowful  weeks : — 

‘ Lizzie  came  out  to  me  in  1897,  and  enjoyed  Saguane 
much  at  first.  She  had  mellowed  much,  and  had  become 
much  more  spiritual.  With  the  old  spirit  she  threw 
herself  into  teaching,  and  her  bairns  made  progress. 
In  the  beginning  of  1899  she  suffered  greatly  from  small 
boils,  and  went  to  the  colonies,  where  she  soon  recovered. 
I went  to  Sydney  to  meet  her,  and  stayed  four  weeks, 
when  we  returned  to  Saguane.  Towards  the  end  of  the 
year  the  boils  began  again,  and  she  suffered  a good  deal 
internally.  In  1900  she  still  carried  on  her  classes.  In 
May  we  went  to  Thursday  Island,  where  I left  her. 
I visited  the  Straits,  introducing  Mr.  Tomkins  to  his 
work. 

‘ On  our  return  we  found  her  much  better,  and  anxious 
to  get  back  to  work,  and  especially  to  prepare  for  our 
removal  to  Daru.  Soon  after  our  return  she  and  the 
boys  packed  away  all  her  small  things.  She  carried  on 
her  classes,  and  on  July  23  she  had  her  evening  class, 
and  on  my  going  to  her  she  complained  of  feeling  very 
poorly.  I got  her  to  bed,  from  which  she  never  again 


460  The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

rose  without  assistance.  After  returning  from  Thursday 
Island  she  often  complained,  but  not  very  seriously. 

‘ For  fourteen  weeks  she  was  111,  but  steadily  growing 
in  Christ.  She  longed  much  at  first  to  see  her  boy 
ordained  and  married,  and  then  as  time  wore  on  she  felt 
less,  and  said  one  day  to  me,  “ It  is  strange,  dear,  but 
I have  no  longing  now  to  see  Bert,  and  I feel  it  is  all 
right.  How  good  our  Father  is!”  She  was  thankful 
for  her  long  illness,  notwithstanding  the  great  suffering, 
as  it  gave  her  time  to  understand  better,  to  get  a clearer 
Hew  and  a stronger  faith.  Often  she  could  be  heard  in 
praise,  and  saying,  “ Peace,  perfect  peace  1 ” “ In  my 

Father’s  house  are  many  mansions.”  “Jesus  is  near,  very 
near.”  She  loved  to  hear  the  children  sing. 

‘ One  thing  she  feared  was  that  she  might  die  at 
Saguane,  and  so  would  have  to  be  buried  in  the  swamp, 
and  earnestly  prayed  she  might  be  spared  to  reach  Daru 
and  be  buried  there.  On  October  24  we  carried  her 
on  board  the  Niue.  We  had  a very  fine  run  across, 
and  at  10.30  we  anchored  off  Daru.  I said  when  the 
anchor  was  going  down,  “ Daru,  dear,”  and  with  great 
satisfaction  she  replied,  “ Yes.”  My  hope  was  to  get 
her  to  Thursday  Island  and  on  to  Sydney.  But  that 
night  she  became  much  worse,  was  sometimes  uncon- 
scious, slept  a good  deal,  and  was  evidendy  soon  to  pass 
on  yonder.  She  knew  me  until  9 a.m.  on  October  25, 
and  at  10.40  she  quietly  went  home.  She  rests  in  the 
native  cemetery.  The  few  whites  were  all  exceedingly 
kind  and  sympathedc,  and  helped  me  in  every  way. 
The  teachers  were  as  sons,  and  did  all  they  could. 
Thank  God  for  sympathy  and  love ! The  world  is 
full  of  both  as  it  Is  of  God. 

‘ During  her  last  stay  at  home  she  came  a good  deal 
in  touch  with  two  very  excellent  ladies,  one  in  the  North 


THE  SECOND  MRS.  CHALMERS. 


Death  of  Mrs.  Cha'mers 


461 

and  the  other  near  to  London,  and  their  quiet,  earnest 
Christlike  lives  had  a wonderful  influence  on  her  life, 
and  she  often  spoke  of  them  and  their  real  Christ 
devotion.  She  did  a good  deal  for  the  London 
Missionary  Society  in  speaking.  She  did  not  like  it 
much,  but  considered  that  she  was  serving  the  Master 
Christ  in  it.  Christ  was  very  dear  to  her.  She  often 
said,  “ The  teachers  do  not  make  enough  of  Christ.” 
When  she  began  to  get  a little  knowledge  of  the 
language,  and  I had  been  away,  on  my  return  I would 
find  in  the  journal  she  kept  during  my  absence  such 
remarks  as  this : “ I,  you  must  speak  to  the  teachers  to 
preach  Christ,  more  of  Christ,  always  Christ.” 

‘ She  was  for  long  greatly  distressed  about  the 
Society’s  difficulties,  and  prayed  that  relief  might  come, 
and  that  all  the  work  might  be  carried  on  increasingly. 
The  week  before  her  death  I was  out  in  the  kitchen  one 
afternoon,  and  on  coming  Into  the  bedroom  I found  her 
sitting  up  and  in  visible  distress.  On  my  Inquiring 
what  was  the  matter,  she  said,  “ Oh,  James,  dear,  I am  in 
great  trouble,  and  don’t  know  what  to  do — a great,  a very 
great  sum  of  money  has  been  left,  and  I am  ill  and  weak, 
and  I cannot  see  to  it.  It  has  been  left  for  the  work, 
and  for  me  to  arrange.”  We  had  often  spoken  of 
a vessel  suitable  for  the  Fly  River,  and  I said,  “ We 
shall  get  our  vessel  now,  dear.”  She  replied,  “ That  is 
nothing,  merely  nothing ; the  money  left  is  thousands, 
and  thousands,  and  thousands,  and  whatever  am  I to 
do  ? ” I said,  “ You  have  only  been  dreaming,  dear,  so  be 
quiet.”  “ No,”  she  replied,  “ I am  not  dreaming,  but 
wide  awake  ; and  it  is  all  right,  but  what  am  I to  do  ? ” 
“ Well,  dear,  if  the  Master  has  given  you  all  that  money 
to  arrange  for  Him,  you  may  be  sure  that  He  will  give 
you  health  and  strength  and  grace  and  wisdom  to 


462  The  Fly  River,  1896-igoi 

arrange  it.”  “ Of  course,  He  will,”  she  replied,  “ how 
very  stupid  I am  not  to  remember  it.  I am  so  tired. 
Lay  me  down,  dear.”  And  I laid  her  head  on  the  pillow, 
and  she  went  off  to  sleep.  The  following  evening  she 
told  Mr.  Tomkins  aU  about  it,  and  asked  us  to  pray  that 
she  might  be  rightly  guided.  ^Months  after  her  death 
we  found  that  Arthington  of  Leeds  had  died  about  that 
time,  and  had  left  the  London  !Misslonar}*  Society  a 
quarter  of  a million,  and  that  a Scotch  minister  had  left 
it  ;i^20,ooo.  WTat  revelation  had  my  beloved  ? 

‘ She  was  a good,  true,  loHng  wife,  a faithful,  earnest 
follower  of  Christ,  ay  blithe  and  hearty,  and  seldom 
looked  on  life’s  dark  side.  If  she  could  not  speak  well 
of  any  one  she  certainly  would  not  speak  e\dl ; and  she 
ever  sought  the  good  in  all.  Scandal  she  detested,  but 
willingly  listened  to  anything  good.  She  had  a won- 
derful knack  of  making  herself  at  home,  and  of  making 
friends. 

‘A  few  days  before  her  death  I said  to  her,  “We 
shall  all  soon  meet  over  yonder.”  Then  hesitadngly  she 
replied,  “ Yes,  but  I am  so  tired.  I want  a long  rest 
first  with  Jesus,  and  then  I shall  be  waiting  for  you  all.” 
Another  day  she  said  to  me,  “ You  know,  Tamate  dear, 
you  are  always  in  such  a hurr)",  you  make  people  feel 
very  uncomfortable.  Now  at  your  time  of  life  trj'  and 
take  things  a little  easier,  and  all  your  friends  will  feel 
more  comfortable.”  ’ 

A few  days  after  his  wife’s  death  Chalmers  wrote  to 
the  lady  with  whom  !Mrs.  Chalmers  had  so  long  as  she 
could  kept  up  a most  intimate  correspondence : — 

‘Thursday  Island,  October  29,  1900. 

‘ What  a grief  it  was  to  my  dear  one  she  could  not 
write  to  you  during  her  somewhat  long  Illness.  Some 


Solace  in  Work 


463 

time  after  being  taken  ill,  when  the  Niue  returned  to 
us  from  the  Straits,  I proposed  going  to  Thursday  Island 
and  away  to  Sydney,  but  she  very  decidedly  opposed 
it,  and  the  weather  being  very  bad  I did  not  press  it. 
When  again  we  had  the  Niue  it  was  too  late.  During 
her  illness  she  frequently  thanked  God  for  sparing  her 
from  day  to  day,  as  her  light  was  brighter,  her  faith 
stronger,  her  love  greater,  and  she  had  good  oppor- 
tunities of  much  communion  with  Jesus  before  she  went 
to  His  home.’ 

After  this  sad  bereavement  Chalmers  found  solace 
in  but  one  thing — the  strenuous  prosecution  of  his 
work.  This  spirit  runs  through  all  the  remaining 
letters. 


‘Thursday  Island,  November  1900. 

‘ It  is  well  with  Tamate  Vaine ; she  is  at  home  with 
Jesus,  and  He  is  nearer  and  dearer  to  me,  but  I smart. 
I return  to  loneliness,  but  to  work,  and  aU  is  well. 
What  a blank  there  is  in  each  of  your  lives,  father  gone 
home,  followed  mother.  You  know  it  is  well  with 
them,  you  rejoice  in  their  reunion,  in  the  blessedness 
of  their  lives  in  His  presence,  and  yet  there  is  a big 
vacancy,  and  life  has  changed.  God  wiU  fill  it  up  to 
us  all. 

‘We  want  a flat-bottomed  vessel  badly,  and  I am 
afraid  to  ask  the  Directors  in  these  trying  times — the 
whaleboat  Tamate  Vaine  gave,  it  is  now  being  built. 
About  a fortnight  before  her  death  she  said,  “ Tamate, 
I know  what  you  are  going  to  do ; you  are  going  to 
give  yourself  to  more  visiting  in  the  river,  and  you 
must  have  a suitable  vessel.  Well,  He  will  give  it  to 
you  if  necessary  in  His  sight.  You  cannot  now  knock 
about  in  a whaleboat  and  a canoe,”  ’ 


464 


The  Fly  River,  1896-igoi 

‘Daru,  Dece)nber  21,  1900. 

‘ There  was  a sad  pleasure  in  breaking  up  the  old 
home.  It  will  take  some  time  ere  we  get  all  our  houses 
up  here,  but  we  are  getting  on,  though  slowly.  The 
majority  of  our  boys  have  accompanied  us,  so  we  will 
make  a fair  beginning.  We  have  got  a very  fine 
position  here,  about  a mile  from  the  village  and  about 
thirty  feet  high.  I think  it  will  be  healtliy.  It  can  make 
a verj’-  pretty  station,  and  we  shall  do  our  best  that  it 
is  so. 

‘We  left  Saguane  on  the  Saturday,  and  on  theThursday 
previous  the  church  members  from  up  the  river  arrived. 
I sent  for  them.  They  speak  in  grateful  terms  of  their 
reception  by  the  people  eveiy where,  and  many  are  the 
places  where  they  have  spoken  of  Jesus  and  introduced 
services.  The  people  were  greatly  disappointed  at  their 
leaving,  and  cried  bitterly  and  pleading  they  should 
return  soon,  shall  try  and  carry  on  so  that  Jesus 

may  be  known  far  and  wide.  I have  another  and 
that  will  support  eight  evangelists  for  some  time.  Next 
month  we  go  up  the  river  and  begin  at  Gaema.  I have 
got  the  frame  of  a good  house  sent  there.  I shall  make 
Gaema  the  centre  of  work  for  some  years.  I cannot 
rest  and  so  many  thousands  of  savages  without  a know- 
ledge of  Christ  near  to  us.  JMore  than  that,  we  were 
compelled  to  carry  on  by  the  Holy  Spirit.  Two 
things  I am  afraid  of:  (i)  Our  running  before  (ahead) 
of  God ; (2)  Our  dropping  so  far  behind  that  I lose 
sight  of  Him. 

‘ I feel  sad  and  thankful  about  China.  How  fearful 
the  sufferings  of  some  of  the  martyrs,  but  what  a grand 
pouring  in  to  the  Saviour’s  presence.  Our  missionaries 
have  conducted  themselves  splendidly ; they  are  grand 
men  and  women.  I should  like  to  visit  China  and  grip 


must  see  this  Work  through'  465 


their  hands.  For  years  to  come  China  will  be  first  and 
foremost  in  the  home  churches,  and  rightly  too.  We 
shall  all  joyfully  take  a back  seat.’ 

‘ Darxj,  January  25,  1901. 

‘Thanks,  cousin  dear,  for  that  invitation  home,  but 
I fear  I am  too  much  attached  to  New  Guinea.  I am 
nearing  the  Bar,  and  might  miss  resting  amidst  old 
scenes,  joys,  and  sorrows.  No,  I am  in  excellent  health, 
only  a stiffness  of  the  legs  at  times,  a great  loneliness, 
and  a gnawing  pain  at  the  heart-strings.  I know  it  is 
well,  and  He  never  errs,  and  is  never  far  off.  I must, 
God  sparing  me,  see  this  work  through.’ 


‘Daru,  February  15,  1901. 

‘ We  have  seen  that  Arthington  is  dead,  and  has  left 
;£'250,ooo  to  the  London  Missionary  Society.  I fancy 
my  old  friend  sold  much  property  in  Leeds,  and  lived 
on  about  three  shillings  a week,  and  so  the  money  was 
got  to  be  expended  in  Christ’s  work.  My  fear  is  that  if 
it  is  true  the  subscriptions  will  fall  off,  and  so  will  the 
prayers.  I told  you  of  Tamate  Value’s  trouble  over  the 
thousands,  and  thousands,  and  thousands.  Her  trouble 
was  how  to  dispose  of  it  all  well  for  the  Master,  and  she 
so  ill  and  weak.  When  did  Arthington  die  ? Tamate 
Value’s  vision  would  be  about  October  14  to  18,  or 
a day  or  two  earlier  or  later.  I know  the  spirit  world 
is  about  us.’ 

The  following  letter  was  written  to  the  wife  of  the 
Rev.  A.  T.  Saville.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Saville  were  fellow 
passengers  with  Chalmers  during  that  eventful  voyage 
in  the  John  Williams,  which  ended  with  shipwreck  on 
Savage  Island. 

G g 


466 


The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

‘ Daru,  March  8,  1901. 

‘ Very  dear  Tavira  Vaine, 

‘ God  bless  and  reward  you  for  your  kind, 
consolinor  words.  He  has  not  erred,  yet  it  is  strange, 
and  to  be  explained  hereafter.  We  had  dreams  of 
a little  rest  together  in  a cottage  out  of  London  some- 
where, before  we  crossed  the  flood.  We  shall  dream 
them  no  more ; she  waits  on  the  other  side,  as  she  said, 
“ I shall  be  waiting  for  you  all.”  I like  dreaming, 
never  mind  though  they  are  never  realized.  Another 
dream  was  to  visit  China  and  Japan  and  cross  America. 
Perhaps  in  the  other  life  we  may  do  it  and  with  ease. 

‘ I have  just  been  thinking  yours  will  be  a splendid 
mansion  yonder  for  us  to  visit.  There  will  be  much 
visiting  in  heaven  and  much  work.  I guess  I shall  have 
good  mission  work  to  do,  great,  brave  work  for  Christ. 
He  will  have  to  find  it,  for  I can  be  nothing  else  than 
a missionary.’ 

‘ Daru,  March  6,  1901. 

‘ We  have  just  heard  from  Saguane.  Services  are 
being  conducted  by  the  deacons,  and  three  of  Tamate 
Vaine’s  bairns  carry  on  school  vigorously  morning, 
evening,  and  night.  The  children’s  prayer-meeting 
keeps  up  in  interest  and  earnestness,  and  we  trust  many 
of  them  will  become  teachers.  We  continue  our  services 
and  school  on  the  verandah  back  and  front,  and  do  from 
five  to  six  hours  a day  at  teaching. 

‘ After  committee  meeting  Mr.  Tomkins  will  be  chiefly 
in  the  Straits,  and  I shall  be  alone  again.  For  some  time 
I hope  to  be  in  the  River,  visiting  and  opening  up,  and 
then  west  to  stations  to  arrange  for  new  ones.  I shall 
keep  the  teachers  moving  into  bush  districts  and  preach- 
ing Christ.  My  time  may  be  short,  and  there  is  much 
to  be  done,  and  I certainly  do  want  to  help  in  it. 


Chalmers^  Soul  troubled 


467 

‘ The  whaleboat  is  launched,  and  she  Is  a beauty, 
pronounced  the  best  ever  seen  in  these  parts  or  any- 
where in  the  north.  She  is  now  London  Missionary 
Society  property,  all  paid  for.’ 

The  whaleboat  referred  to  in  this  letter  was  a gift  to 
the  mission  by  Mrs.  Chalmers.  It  was  the  one  in  which 
Tam  ate,  left  the  Niue  on  the  fateful  morning  of  April  81 
1901. 

It  is  almost  certain  that  during  these  lonely  months 
at  Daru  Chalmers  completed  his  autobiography,  and 
also  the  sketch  of  his  wife’s  life  given  on  preceding 
pages.  He  gave  much  thought  to  the  growth  of  the 
New  Guinea  Mission,  and  to  the  methods  of  work 
pursued.  He  was  greatly  troubled  at  the  expenditure 
necessarily  involved  in  such  a mission,  and  anxious  to 
do  all  in  his  power  to  keep  this  within  narrower  limits. 
The  closing  paragraphs  of  the  autobiography  deal  with 
this  subject, 

‘ The  work  in  the  Fly  River  wiU  for  years  to  come 
be  chiefly  done  by  travelling  evangelists  holding  services 
wherever  they  go,  teaching  all  they  know,  striving  to 
live  holy  and  blessed  lives.  My  whole  soul  is  greatly 
troubled  at  the  slowness  of  the  Gospel  advance,  at  our 
indifference  in  preaching  repentance  and  remission  of 
sins  to  all  the  people,  in  bringing  the  Bread  of  Life 
to  all  hungering  ones.  The  temptation  to  settle  down 
quietly  and  act  the  very  respectable  missionary  is  very 
great.  Whole-souled  devotion  to  Christ  and  to  His 
work  would  soon  be  more  abundantly  blessed.  Mad 
for  Christ’s  sake,  cast  out  for  Christ’s  sake ! Where 
is  the  offence  of  the  Cross  ? I fear  we  have  departed 
far  from  the  Spirit  of  the  Cross,  Hundreds  of  our 
brethren  at  home  have  difficulty  in  making  ends 
meet,  and  live  in  small  houses  and  yet  have  a 

G g 2 


468  The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

missionary  deputation  once  a year  and  a collection; 
and  the  deputation  has  in  the  foreign  land  a good 
house,  servants,  and  many  comforts.  How  my  heart 
has  ached  when  on  deputation,  and  how  shame  has 
burned  within  me,  when  I have  known  and  seen  the 
struggle  of  many  of  my  brethren  at  home ! Will 
the  young  missionaries  revert  more  to  the  originals  ? 
Will  they  have  pluck  enough  to  be  men  of  the  Cross, 
willing  to  bear  the  offence  of  the  Cross } I can  only 
say,  Peccavi.  I have  great  respect  for  all  my  brethren 
in  the  mission,  but  I feel  sure  we  must  confess  that  we 
have  sinned  greatly, 

‘ There  is  a great  danger  of  settling  down  to  an  easy, 
comfortable  life,  and  leaving  outstations  and  new  places 
unvisited,  I was  once  so  situated  that  I settled  down 
at  a station,  and  got  so  to  enjoy  the  ease  and  comfort 
that  boating,  canoeing,  and  walking  became  so  un- 
comfortable that  I did  it  as  seldom  as  possible,  and 
really  began  to  think  I had  plenty  to  do  at  the  station, 
and  need  not  go  out  to  other  work.  To  do  really  true 
mission  work  in  New  Guinea  requires  roughing  it 
somewhat,  and  to  have  many  unpleasant  experiences 
by  sea  and  land.  The  home  churches  think  we  have 
terribly  trjdng  experiences,  many  discomforts,  and  much 
to  endure.  I fail  to  see  these,  and  contend  that  our 
position  is  vastly  superior  to  the  hard-working  city 
missionary,  and  that  we  are  princes  compared  to  the 
brethren  in  small,  poor  churches.  Our  brethren,  the 
city  missionaries,  have  hard,  trying  work,  and  do  it  with 
a smile.  The  hard-working  country  pastor  in  his  wide 
and  varied  work  puts  us  to  shame.  Let  us  be  done  for 
ever  with  the  cant  about  hardships  when  there  are  none, 
or  comparatively  few ; the  trials  of  mission  work,  when 
they  cannot  be  compared  to  those  of  the  home  pastor 


Chalmers^  Last  Letters  4^7 

or  city  missionary.  Let  us  do  earnestly  the  work  set 
before  us.’ 

The  following  letters,  certainly  the  last  he  penned, 
were  written  only  the  day  before  the  Niue  left  Daru 
on  that  trip  from  which  so  many  of  her  passengers 
were  never  to  return.  The  first  was  written  to  Miss 
Searle,  of  Kew,  Melbourne,  the  daughter  of  one  of 
Tamate’s  oldest  Australian  friends ; the  second  to 
Mrs.  Arthur  Edwards. 

* Daru,  Afiril  3,  1901. 

‘We  leave  to-morrow  for  the  east,  Risk  Point,  and 
Cape  Blackwood,  and  I shall  be  away  for  over  a fort- 
night. Our  work  here  gets  on  very  slowly.  Last  week 
the  schoolhouse  collapsed.  I hope,  when  we  return,  to 
get  into  my  new  quarters  next  to  schoolroom.  The 
mission  house  will  not  be  begun  until  May  or  June. 
Sometimes  the  greatness  of  the  work  oppresses  me,  but 
He  keeps  saying,  “ Be  strong  and  of  a good  courage,” 
and  I know  He  is  with  us,  so  all  is  well. 

‘ We  had  the  John  Williams  here  a fortnight  ago,  and 
held  committee  meetings  ashore  on  this  verandah.  Oh, 
it  was  a good  time.  Next  year  we  meet  here,  and 
I shall  have  to  cater  for  all,  and  arrange  for  all  sleeping 
ashore ; it  will  be  a big,  pleasant  bit  of  work.  I have 
promised  them  taro,  sweet  potato,  and  perhaps  turtle 
or  pig. 

‘ I keep  well — a slight  touch  of  fever  about  a fort- 
night ago,  just  after  the  John  Williams  left.  I have  got 
very  lazy  and  must  break  it  off,  and  so  will  be  on  the 
move  for  the  next  six  weeks.’ 

‘ Daru,  April  3,  1901. 

‘Just  a wee  note  to  leave  for  any  chance  there 
may  be  to  Thursday  Island.  We  leave  to-morrow  for 


470  The  Fly  River,  1896-1901 

the  east,  as  far  as  Cape  Blackwood,  and  expect  to  be 
away  more  than  a fortnight. 

‘ Many  years  ago  I used  Law’s  Serious  Call  to  a 
Devout  Life^  and  am  again  at  it.  W e are  apt  to  get  so 
formal  and  lukewarm  and  need  occasional  stimulus. 

‘ Night  before  last  Tamate  Maine’s  pet  collie  was  shot 
dead  by  a Government  officer,  for  what,  no  one  knows, 
and  that  has  caused  us  much  sorrow.  We  buried  him 
yesterday  morning  in  the  compound. 

‘ The  sun  is  shining,  and  a south-east  wind  has  come 
up,  and  I feel  cheered.  For  more  than  two  months  we 
have  not  had  such  a dav.  Ah  me  ! how  I lonsr  to  have 
all  the  houses  up  and  be  done  with  the  worry  of  them. 
Would  w^e  could  communicate  just  now  and  I knew  of 
your  well-being.’ 

The  next  day  the  Niue  left  Daru  for  the  voyage  which 
ended  so  disastrously  at  Goaribari  Island. 


CHAPTER  XIII 


THE  TRAGEDY  AT  DOPIMA 

The  annual  committee  meeting’s  of  the  New  Guinea 
Mission  were  held  at  Dam  from  March  i8  to  March  20, 
1901,  Chalmers,  in  the  brief  diary  which  he  made  up 
every  day,  remarks  under  the  20th,  ‘ Finished  meetings. 
Been  good  time.’  There  is  nothing  in  the  minutes  of 
these  meetings  which  throws  light  upon  subsequent 
events.  Chalmers  was  far  from  well.  In  the  entries 
between  March  22  and  April  4 there  frequently  occur 
references  like  these : ‘ been  lying  down  all  day,’  ‘ not 
feeling  fit,’  ‘been  ill  and  in  bed.’  On  March  31  the 
entry  runs,  ‘ Fine  morning,  looks  like  rain.  I am  much 
better.  A very  good  day.  Only  three  to  the  English 
service.’  This  is  the  final  record  of  a Sunday’s  work 
penned  by  his  hand.  The  last  entry  in  the  diary  is 
under  date  of  April  4.  Each  day  Chalmers  invariably 
noted  the  wind  at  six  a.  m.  The  full  entry  mns,  ‘ 6 a.  m. 
SE.  strong.  Heavy  showers.  8.40  a.  m.  Blowing  and 
showers.  Hope  to  leave.  Will  go  down  and  see.’ 
Later  that  day  the  Niue  sailed  on  the  fateful  trip,  the 
last  Chalmers  was  ever  to  take  in  her. 

Chalmers  had  intended  making  a voyage  up  the  Fly 
River,  but  the  letters  just  quoted  seem  to  show  that  he  had 
resolved  first  to  visit  the  region  of  Goaribari  Island.  His 
health  had  been  below  par,  and  this  may  not  have  been 


472  The  Tragedy  at  Dopima 

without  influence  in  the  critical  hour  on  the  morning  of 
April  8.  He  may  have  been  less  keen  to  detect  signs  of 
danger,  and  less  equal  to  facing,  with  the  promptitude 
and  commanding  influence  of  old,  the  crisis  of  life  or 
death.  It  had  been  for  long  }’'ears  the  desire  of  his 
heart  to  make  friends  with,  and  to  gain  the  confidence  of, 
the  savage  tribes  in  the  Aird  Delta.  When  in  England 
in  1895  he  told  the  writer  that  he  had  set  his  heart  upon 
establishing  stations  all  along  the  coast  from  Cape 
Blackwood  to  the  Fly  River.  He  spoke  in  the  highest 
terms  of  these  savages,  said  they  were  splendid  fellows, 
and  if  he  could  only  get  hold  of  them  they  would  make 
fine  missionaries. 

\Ye  shall  probably  never  know  exacdy  what  happened 
until  a mission  is  established  on  Goaribari  Island,  the 
language  mastered,  and  some  of  those  concerned  in  the 
cruel  deed  tell  the  native  teacher  or  the  missionary  what 
the}"  did,  and  why  they  murdered  those  who  were  really 
their  best  friends.  But  whatever  brought  them  there  on 
the  evening  of  Easter  Sunday,  April  7,  the  Niue  was  at 
anchor  off  the  eastern  end  of  Goaribari  Island.  W'hat 
followed  is  known  only  from  letters  and  reports  written 
a month  later.  The  following  letter,  by  the  Rev.  H.  M. 
Dauncey,  tells  all  that  at  present  can  be  known  about 
the  terrible  events  of  that  day : — 

‘ Merrie  England,  off  Cape  Blackwood,  Maj>  4,  1901. 

‘ The  news  I have  to  send  is  terribly  sad.  On 
Sunday  morning  last  the  Lokohu  came  in  with  flags 
at  half-mast,  and  in  a short  time  a note  arrived  from  the 
doctor  with  the  terrible  news,  “ Passed  the  Niue  yester- 
day. The  captain  called  out,  ‘ Tamate  and  Tomkins 
both  dead.’  We  were  out  of  hearing  so  soon  that 
I could  hear  no  more.”  What  to  make  of  the  message 


473 


The  Niue  at  Dopima 

I did  not  know,  nor  was  I any  the  wiser  when,  a little 
later,  the  doctor  arrived.  About  four  o’clock  we  knew 
that  something  grave  had  happened,  and  that  there  had 
been  foul  play,  for  the  Merrie  England  came  in  with  the 
governor  on  board.  The  doctor  and  I went  off,  and 
heard  from  the  governor  and  Hunt  as  full  particulars  as 
they  could  give.  They  are  summed  up  in  the  state- 
ment made  by  Bob,  the  captain  of  the  Niue. 

‘ He  reports ; “ Left  Daru,  on  April  4,  with  Tamate 
and  Tomkins,  Pliro,  a Rarotongan  teacher,  the  chief  of 
Ipisia,  and  a party  of  ten  mission  boys.  Made  for 
Risk  Point ; arrived  there  April  7,  at  four  p.  m. 
Directly  the  vessel  anchored  the  natives  came  off,  and 
stayed  on  the  vessel  till  sunset,  when  Tamate  persuaded 
them  to  go  ashore,  and  promised  to  visit  them  in  their 
village  the  next  day.  At  five  a.  m.  the  next  morning 
a great  crowd  of  natives  came  off,  and  crowded  the  decks 
so  that  there  was  no  room  to  move.  The  canoes  in 
which  they  came  were  filled  with  bows  and  arrows, 
clubs,  bamboo  knives  and  spears.  They  tried  to  per- 
suade the  natives  to  go  on  shore,  but  they  refused. 
Tamate  then  decided  to  go  on  shore  himself,  thinking 
he  might  thereby  induce  the  natives  to  leave  the  vessel. 
On  announcing  his  intention  of  going  ashore  Tomkins 
at  once  said  he  would  accompany  him.  They  got  into 
the  whaleboat  with  the  mission  boys  and  the  Ipisia 
chief,  Hiro  remaining  on  board  to  help  the  captain. 
Tamate  said  he  would  not  stay  more  than  half  an  hour, 
and  would  be  off  again  to  breakfast,  after  which  they 
would  make  for  another  village.  They  watched  the 
boat  go  away,  followed  by  about  half  the  natives,  the 
rest  remaining  on  board.  When  the  boat  neared 
the  village  they  saw  it  go  in,  then  come  out  again,  and 
then  in  again,  after  which  they  could  see  nothing  more 


474  "The  Tragedy  at  Dopima 

of  it.  About  seven  o’clock  a breeze  sprang  up,  and  the 
Niue  was  got  under  way  and  taken  to  an  anchorage 
right  opposite  the  village  to  which  Tamate  had  gone. 
Waited  there  till  noon,  but  saw  no  signs  of  the  party. 
Went  on  a little  further,  but  could  still  see  no  signs  of 
either  the  mission  party  or  the  boat.  "Waited  tiU  sunset, 
but  still  no  sign.  The  Xiue  was  then  taken  outside  the 
island,  and  anchored  for  the  night.  Next  morning  they 
went  along  the  coast  for  some  distance,  but  could  see  no 
sign  of  them,  and  at  eight  a.  m.  on  April  9 left  for  Daru 
to  report  the  matter  to  the  governor.  The  natives  who 
had  remained  on  board  when  Tamate  and  Tomkins 
went  ashore,  looted  the  vessel,  taking  all  the  barter 
goods  and  the  clothes  and  stores  belonging  to  Tamate 
and  Tomkins.  They  had  no  stores  of  any  kind  with 
them  when  they  went  ashore.” 

‘ The  governor  was  going  with  a large  force  to  the 
scene  of  the  massacre.  I decided  to  go  with  him,  and 
then  on  to  Daru.  Early  Tuesday  morning  the  Merrie 
England  started,  and  on  Wednesday  morning  we  were 
off  Orokolo. 

‘ Three  of  us  went  in  the  boat  to  see  if  we  could  com- 
municate with  the  teachers,  and  send  them  as  far  west  as 
they  dare  go,  to  search  the  coast.  Unfortunately  the 
sea  was  too  heav)'.  We  could  not  land,  and  they  could 
not  come  out  in  a canoe.  We  returned  to  the  Merrie 
England,  and  just  then  the  smoke  of  a steamer  was  seen. 
She  proved  to  be  the  Parua,  with  ten  men  and  an  officer 
from  the  garrison  of  Thursday  Island,  sent  over  by  the 
Queensland  Government  in  case  our  governor  needed 
help.  She  came  after  us  as  we  steamed  away  for  the 
Aird  Delta. 

‘ On  Thursday  morning  the  captain  began  to  feel  his 
way  in,  and  his  ship,  so  far  as  I know,  was  the  first 


Government  Attack  on  Dopima  475 

vessel  of  any  size  to  come  here.  The  governor  did 
not  wish  Hunt  and  me  to  go  in  the  boats,  so  we  went 
on  board  the  Parua  as  ambulance  men.  He  started 
with  the  steam  launch,  with  six  boats  in  tow.  We 
followed  in  the  Parua,  with  the  small  launch  ahead  to  see 
that  we  did  not  get  into  too  shallow  water.  When  near 
Risk  Point  we  could  see  men  gathering  there,  with  their 
arms,  and,  what  looked  worse,  the  women  making  over 
to  the  mainland  in  canoes.  Off  the  village  of  Dopima 
two  of  the  boats  were  cast  off,  while  the  governor  with 
the  other  four  went  about  a mile  and  a half  further  up 
to  the  second  village,  Turotere.  He  no  sooner  got 
abreast  of  the  village  than  the  natives  rushed  down,  and 
opened  fire  upon  him.  Not  till  then  did  he  hold  up 
a white  flag  (the  signal  to  fire).  A few  rounds  were 
fired,  the  whole  party  scrambled  ashore  through  the 
mud,  and  in  a short  time  had  possession  of  the  village. 
At  Dopima  the  attack  was  not  made  till  after  that  on 
Turotere  had  begun.  Leaving  two  boats  at  Turotere, 
the  governor  went  round  the  north  end  of  the  island  to 
a village  on  the  mainland.  Here  again  he  was  attacked. 
Heavy  rain  came  on  as  he  and  his  party  from  Dopima 
joined  those  at  Turotere.  In  the  dark  and  the  wet  they 
went  ashore  and  camped  in  the  dubu.  For  hours  the 
most  violent  thunderstorm  that  I have  ever  known 
raged.  Despite  this  the  natives  made  two  attacks  on  the 
dubu,  and  wounded  one  of  the  native  police. 

‘ On  Friday  morning  the  governor  went  away  to 
Aimaha  with  four  of  the  boats,  leaving  two  others  to 
destroy  the  war  canoes  and  the  dubus.  He  had  given 
orders  that  none  of  the  family  houses  were  to  be  touched. 
This  order  was  obeyed,  except  in  the  case  where  the 
wind  carried  the  flame  to  other  houses,  and  best  part  of 
the  village  was  burnt.  One  of  these  dubus  was  fully 


47^  The  Tragedy  at  Dopima 

300  yards  long,  and  the  shortest  would  not  be  less  than 
150  3'ards  long.  At  Turotere  four  of  these  dubus  were 
fired,  and  no  sooner  did  the  smoke  begin  to  rise  than  all 
along  the  mangrove  edge  was  lined  with  men  in  very 
small  canoes.  Some  few  of  them  tried  to  cross,  but  they 
vanished  into  the  mangrove  the  moment  the  small  launch 
tried  to  capture  them.  The  governor  had  given  orders 
that  there  was  to  be  no  more  firing  except  in  case  of 
need,  and  this  order  was  in  keeping  with  the  spirit  in 
which  the  whole  affair  was  carried  out. 

‘ During  Friday  and  Saturday  ten  villages  were  visited, 
and  the  fighting  dubus  in  each  destroyed.  Saturday 
morning.  Hunt  and  I went  ashore  at  Dopima  and  stood 
upon  the  spot  where  they  landed,  and  where  they  most 
probably  were  killed.  One’s  thoughts  were  sad,  but 
after  all  I could  not  help  thinking  that  it  was  the  kind  of 
ending  to  the  chapter  that  Tamate  would  have  chosen 
had  it  been  left  to  him.  With  Tomkins  it  is  different. 
Young,  with  any  amount  of  “ go  ” in  him,  one  cannot 
help  wondering  why  he  should  have  been  taken. 

‘ When  all  were  on  board  again  the  governor  addressed 
the  men  from  Thursday  Island.  This  is  a summary  of 
what  he  said : “ I wish  not  only  to  thank  you  for  your 
ready  assistance,  and  for  the  willingness  you  have  shown 
throughout  the  expedition,  but  I wish  also  to  thank  you 
for  the  humane  manner  in  which  you  have  carried  out 
my  orders.  Mr.  Chalmers  came  to  New  Guinea  in  the 
interests  of  peace,  and  he  gave  his  life  for  that  purpose. 
I believe  that  we  have  seen  the  last  serious  fighting  in 
British  New  Guinea.  The  news  of  this  expedition  will 
spread,  and  will,  I trust,  put  an  effectual  check  on 
massacres  and  fighting  of  any  serious  nature.  If  that 
be  so,  and  I trust  it  will,  it  will  serve  to  crown  the  life- 
work  of  that  noble  man.” 


Ten  Thousand  Skulls  in  Dubus  477 

‘ I find  the  governor  has  names  for  the  villages  which 
differ  from  those  on  the  chart.  Village  No.  i he  calls 
Dopima,  No.  2 Turotere.  The  island  is  Goaribari, 
a little  to  the  north  of  Cape  Blackwood.  Sir  William 
Macgregor  passed  it  twice^  and  had  trouble  both  times. 
So  far  as  is  known  twenty-four  natives  were  killed  and 
three  wounded.’ 

In  a letter  written  the  next  day,  May  5,  Mr.  Dauncey 
states : — 

‘ In  one  of  the  dubus  at  Turotere  there  were  over 
seven  hundred  skulls,  and  at  another  four  hundred. 
Some  of  the  other  dubus  were  cleared  before  the  party 
reached  them,  but  I am  within  the  mark  in  saying  that 
there  must  have  been  10,000  skulls  in  the  twenty  dubus 
burnt.  What  a tale  that  number  tells  ! The  prisoner’s 
village  was  spared  on  account  of  the  information  he 
gave. 

‘ Yesterday  (Sunday)  morning,  before  we  left  the 
anchorage,  a memorial  service  was  held  in  the  saloon. 
Short,  but  it  was  hard  to  get  through  it.  I never  had 
a harder  task  than  to  read  the  burial  service  then,  and 
Hunt  did  not  find  the  address  an  easy  matter.  Try  to 
imagine  it ! I can’t  attempt  to  describe  it.’ 

Thus  runs  the  account  of  a brother  missionary  and 
an  old  friend  and  colleague.  The  Lieutenant-Governor 
of  British  New  Guinea,  who  was  present  in  person,  sent 
in  a full  oflScial  report  of  his  proceedings,  and  Mr. 
Dauncey’s  narrative  may  be  supplemented  with  some 
passages  from  this  : — 

‘ The  locality  is  one  which  has  a very  bad  reputation  ; 
the  population  is  large  and  savage.  It  was  first  visited, 
as  far  as  I know,  by  Captain  Blackwood  (after  whom 
the  cape  to  the  east  of  it  is  named)  in  1845.  An 
interesting  account  of  it,  and  his  search  for  two  of  his 


478  The  Tragedy  at  Dopima 

boats,  which  parted  company  with  him  there,  and  were 
subsequently  found  to  have  made  their  way  through 
Torres  Straits  to  Port  Essington,  beyond  the  Gulf  of 
Carpentaria,  is  given  by  Mr.  J.  Bete  Jukes,  naturalist 
to  the  expedition,  in  his  book,  Xarraiive  of  the 
Surveyvig  Voyage  of  H.M.S.  Fly,  1842-1846.  Sir 
Mhlliam  i\Iacgregor  visited  it  twice,  in  1892  and  1898, 
and  on  one  occasion  only  prevented  a collision  between 
his  party  and  the  natives  of  the  Omati  River,  who  were 
stealing  from  his  boat,  by  with  his  own  hand  holding 
back  one  of  his  crew  who  had  struck  a thief  who  had 
stolen  his  shirt.  I had  intended  going  down  there  with 
!Mr.  ^lurray  during  his  “ north-west  ” season,  but  just  as 
I was  read}’  to  start  from  Port  Moresby  in  February  last, 
on  my  western  trip,  the  news  arrived  of  the  death  of 
Mr.  .-Irmit,  the  resident  magistrate  of  the  Northern 
Division,  and  the  murder  of  the  two  miners  King  and 
Champion  on  the  Upper  Kumusi,  and  I had  to  alter  my 
plans  and  go  east  at  once,  and  it  was  only  an  accident 
due  to  our  not  having  sufficient  coal  at  Samarai  to  finish 
my  cruise  in  that  part  of  the  Possession  that  I came  back 
to  Port  ^loresby,  and  happened  to  be  there  when  the 
news  of  the  massacre  arrived. 

‘ I went  through  the  long  dubu,  which  I should  say 
was  300  yards  long,  divided  up  on  either  side  into  small 
partitions  or  cubicles  screened  off  from  the  centre  passage, 
which  was  wide  and  clear  from  end  to  end.  There  were 
quantities  of  bows  and  arrows,  many  of  the  latter  barbed 
and  of  a soft,  easily  broken  wood,  probably  intentional 
to  make  their  extraction  more  difficult.  The  most 
curious  objects  were  fantastically  carved  and  painted 
figures  fastened  to  a sort  of  seat,  with  dozens  of  skulls, 
some  of  them  carved  and  painted,  in  front  of  them ; 
each  skull  was  attached  to  the  figure  or  to  the  frame  of 


Governor's  View  of  Punishment  479 

the  seat  by  a thick  twisted  cord  with  a loop  at  the  end 
which  slipped  over  a peg  ; there  were  hundreds  of  these 
skuUs  before  numerous  figures,  which  we  take  to  be 
idols  of  some  kind,  in  all  the  dubus.  Some  had  pieces 
smashed  out  by  the  death-blow,  others  were  uninjured. 
Some  had  artificial  noses  and  teeth  made  of  gum  and 
wool.  \Ye  found  bamboo  head-knives  and  the  daggers 
of  cassowary  bone  with  which  they  dispatch  their 
\dctims.  When  a man  is  seized  the  dagger  is  plunged 
downwards  into  his  gullet,  and  his  head  is  immediately 
cut  oflf  with  the  bamboo  knife. 

‘ I had  to  decide  what  punishment  I ought  to  inflict 
on  all  those  villages  w’hich  I had  reason  to  believe  were 
implicated  or  connected  in  any  way  with  the  dreadful 
tragedy,  and  I at  length,  after  careful  consideration, 
decided  to  visit  them  all  with  one  or  other  of  our 
parties  and  burn  down  the  dubus,  but  not  to  touch  any 
of  the  ordinary  dwelling-houses  of  the  married  men 
with  their  women  and  children.  I consulted  those  of 
my  officers  whom  I knew  were  sympathetic  and  ex- 
perienced with  natives,  and  we  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  it  was  the  right  thing  to  do  under  the  circumstances ; 
but,  while  I took  their  opinion,  the  decision  was  mine 
and  I was  entirely  responsible  for  it.  By  burning  these 
dubus  only,  the  punishment  would  fall  only  on  the 
fighting  men.  The  houses  are  made  of  sago-palm,  and 
can  be  rebuilt,  but  of  course  with  a considerable  amount 
of  time  and  labour ; the  blow  to  the  prestige  of  the 
village  would  be  greatly  felt,  and  that  is  of  more  weight 
in  this  case  than  the  material  loss  of  the  buildings.  It 
was  necessary,  in  my  opinion,  to  leave  a lesson  behind 
me  which  would  not  only  be  felt  by  those  punished, 
but  the  report  of  which  would  spread  amongst  their 
neighbours  far  and  wide.  I also  decided  to  destroy 


480  The  Tragedy  at  Dopima 

several  of  the  large  war  canoes — dugouts  without  out- 
rig;  aers. 

00 

‘ It  is  in  surroundings  such  as  these  that  the  Pioneer 
Missionary',  and  one  of  the  mission’s  latest  recruits,  and 
their  faithful  followers,  lost  their  lives  by  the  hands  of 
those  they  had  come  to  befriend ; the  first  because  he 
knew  of  nothing  that  could  stop  him,  and  the  others 
because  where  their  leader  went  they  went  too.  It  was 
stated  by  the  survivors  on  the  Xiue  that  Mr.  Chalmers 
probably  anticipated  some  danger,  as  he  wished  to  leave 
Mr.  Tomkins  on  board ; but  the  latter  would  not  let  him 
go  without  him,  and  they  were  called  away  together 
at  each  other’s  side.  I am  not  alone  in  the  opinion 
that  Mr.  Chalmers  has  won  the  death  he  would  have 
wished  for  of  all  others — in  Xew  Guinea  and  for  X’ew 
Guinea — and  if  I am  right  in  the  behef  that  this  sacrifice 
wiU  prove  to  be  the  means  of  putting  an  end  to  such 
tragedies  anywhere  on  the  coast  of  the  Possession — and 
they  could  only  occur  in  this  last  part  of  it  which  we 
had  not  yet  in  hand — I know  that  he,  or  any  others 
of  his  brother  missionaries  here,  would  unhesitatingly 
welcome  the  opportunity  for  the  sake  of  its  end.’ 

The  expedition  captured  a prisoner  at  Dopima,  One 
of  the  native  police  in  the  Government  expedition  was 
able  to  speak  his  language,  and  through  him  the  prisoner 
gave  the  only  account  of  the  massacre  which  has  yet 
been  obtained: — 

‘ The  name  of  the  village  I was  captured  in  is  Dopima. 
I,  however,  belong  to  Dubumuba,  a village  on  Baiba 
Bari  Island.  I,  myself,  was  not  present  at  the  massacre ; 
only  the  big  men  at  the  village  went.  I have,  however, 
heard  all  about  it.  My  father,  Marawa,  sent  me  to  Do- 
pima to  get  a tomahawk  to  build  a canoe.  The  name 
of  the  village  you  camped  in  the  first  night  is  Turotere. 


Prisoner's  Tale  of  the  Massacre  481 

‘ The  first  suggestion  for  massacring  the  London 
Missionary  Society  party  came  from  Garopo,  off  whose 
village,  Dopima,  the  Niue  was  anchored.  Word  was  at 
once  sent  round  that  night  to  villages  in  the  vicinity 
to  come  to  help.  It  is  the  usual  custom  for  people 
of  surrounding  villages,  when  a large  boat  is  sighted, 
to  congregate  in  one  place.  The  following  villages 
were  implicated : — Dopima,  Turotere,  Bai-ia,  Aidio, 
Eheubi,  Goari-ubi,  Aimaha,  Gewari-Bari,  Ubu-Oho, 
Dubumuba.  The  next  morning  all  the  canoes  went  off 
and  persuaded  Messrs.  Chalmers  and  Tomkins  and 
party  to  come  on  shore  in  the  whaleboat.  Some  of  the 
natives  remained  to  loot  the  Niue.  When  they  got  on 
shore  Messrs.  Chalmers  and  Tomkins  and  a few  boys 
entered  the  long  house,  the  rest  of  the  boys  remaining 
to  guard  the  boat.  These  last,  however,  were  also 
enticed  inside  the  house  on  pretence  of  giving  them 
something  to  eat.  The  signal  for  a general  massacre 
was  given  by  knocking  simultaneously  from  behind 
both  Messrs.  Chalmers  and  Tomkins  on  the  head  with 
stone  clubs.  This  was  performed  in  the  case  of  the 
former  by  lake,  of  Turotere,  in  that  of  the  latter  by 
Arau-u,  of  Turotere.  Kaiture,  of  Dopima,  then  stabbed 
Mr.  Chalmers  in  the  right  side  with  a cassowary  dagger, 
and  then  Muroroa  cut  off  his  head.  Ema  cut  off 
Mr.  Tomkins’  head.  They  both  fell  senseless  at  the 
first  blow  of  the  clubs.  Some  names  of  men  concerned 
in  the  murder  of  the  rest  of  the  party  are:  — Baibi, 
Adade,  Emai,  Utuamu,  and  Amuke,  all  of  Dopima ; 
also  Wahaga  and  Ema,  both  of  Turotere. 

‘ All  the  heads  were  immediately  cut  off.  We,  however, 
lost  one  man,  Gahibai,  of  Dopima.  He  was  running 
to  knock  a big  man  ^ on  the  head,  when  the  latter 
' This  was  Naragi,  chief  of  Ipisia. 

H h 


482  The  Tragedy  at  Dopima 

snatched  a stone  club  from  a man  standing  near,  and 
killed  Gahibai.  He  (Xaragi)  was,  however,  immediately 
overpowered.  The  other  boys  were  too  small  to  make 
any  resistance.  In  the  meantime  the  people  in  canoes 
left  at  the  Niue  had  come  back  after  looting  her.  This 
party  was  led  by  Kautiri,  of  Dopima.  Finding  the 
party  on  shore  dead,  it  was  determined  to  go  back 
to  the  Niue  and  kill  those  on  board.  However,  the 
Niue  got  under  way,  and  left,  so  they  could  not 
accompHsh  their  purpose.  I think  the  crew  of  the  Niue 
were  frightened  at  the  noise  on  shore.  Then  Pakara, 
of  Aimaha,  called  out  to  all  the  people  to  come  and 
break  up  the  boat,  which  had  been  taken  right  inside 
the  creek,  it  being  high  water  This  wus  done,  and  the 
pieces  were  divided  amongst  people  from  the  various 
villages. 

‘ Directly  the  heads  had  been  cut  off  the  bodies  some 
men  cut  the  latter  up  and  handed  the  pieces  over  to  the 
women  to  cook,  which  they  did,  mixing  the  flesh  with 
sago.  They  were  eaten  the  same  day.  Gebai  has  got 
Mr.  Chalmers’  head  at  Dopima,  and  Mahikaha  has  got 
Mr.  Tomkins’  head  at  Turotere.  The  rest  of  the  heads 
are  divided  amongst  various  individuals.  Anybody 
having  a new  head  would  naturally,  on  seeing  strange 
people  coming  to  the  village,  hide  them  away  in  the 
bush,  and  leave  only  the  old  skulls  in  the  houses.  The 
same  applies  to  the  loot  from  the  Niue.  As  regards 
the  skulls  in  the  houses,  those  having  artificial  noses 
attached  to  them  are  of  people  who  have  died  natural 
deaths ; those  that  have  no  noses  attached  have  been 
kiUed.’ 

A letter  from  Mr.  Hunt  at  Daru  to  Dr.  Lawes,  who 

' This  was  the  splendid  boat  which  just  before  her  death 
Mrs.  Chalmers  had  presented  to  the  mission. 


Sorrow  in  Australia  483 

was  then  in  England,  dated  May  ii,  1901,  contains  a 
few  further  particulars  : — 

‘ It  seems  almost  as  if  Tamate  must  have  had  a 
premonition  of  what  was  going  to  happen ; for  every- 
thing was  prepared  here.  His  will  was  placed  upper- 
most in  his  desk,  and  his  autobiography  was  written 
almost  up  to  date,  and  finished.  Both  men  were  fully 
prepared  for  death,  and  all  the  odd  memoranda  we 
have  found  breathe  a spirit  of  consecration.  How 
strange  are  the  workings  of  Providence ! What  a mercy 
that  Tamate  Vaine  went  first,  and  was  thus  spared  the 
shock  of  this  awful  news ! It  is  hard  for  us  to  think 
it  for  the  best  that  two  such  men  should  be  suddenly 
snatched  away.  Tamate  gave  an  address  at  com- 
mittee that  was  full  of  missionary  enthusiasm,  and  few 
of  us  will  forget  it.  Tomkins  wrote  his  diary  up  to 
the  night  before  the  massacre,  and  speaks  of  the  natives 
coming  off  to  the  Niue. 

‘ Further  inquiries  have  elicited  nothing  new.  It  is 
evident,  I think,  that  the  party  were  killed  in  accordance 
with  the  native  custom  to  celebrate  the  completion  of 
a dubu  by  human  sacrifice.  His  Excellency  the 
governor  has  been  most  kind  through  it  aU.  No  one 
could  have  been  kinder,  and  his  expedition,  although 
it  involved  a certain  loss  of  life,  was  carried  out  in 
a most  fair  and  humane  manner.’ 

This  terrible  tragedy  produced  a profound  impression 
in  all  missionary  circles,  and  the  tidings  of  it  were 
scattered  by  the  press  over  the  whole  civilized  world. 
In  Australia,  where  Chalmers  was  so  well  known,  the 
shock  was  great  and  the  sorrow  deep.  One  of  the  last 
things  the  Duke  of  Cornwall  and  York  did  before 
leaving  Melbourne  for  Brisbane,  was  to  send  an  official 
expression  of  his  deep  sympathy  with  those  who  had 

H h 2 


484  The  Tragedy  at  Dopima 

been  bereaved  by  the  revolting  massacre  and  cannibal 
outrage  at  Goaribari. 

Lord  Hopetoun,  the  Governor- General  of  the  Com- 
monwealth, also  sent  a message  of  kindly  sympathy,  in 
which  he  recognized  how  much  James  Chalmers  had 
done  for  Christianity  in  New  Guinea.  These  messages 
from  the  Heir  Apparent  and  the  Governor  - General 
were  deeply  appreciated  by  the  Christian  churches  of 
Australasia,  and  especially  by  those  who  knew  best  the 
noble  men  who  had  fallen  while  labouring  for  the 
highest  well-being  of  the  degraded  races  which  have 
come  under  the  paternal  responsibility  of  the  Common- 
wealth government. 

In  Melbourne  the  confirmation  of  news  came  when 
that  community  was  celebrating  the  opening  of  the 
Commonwealth  Parliament,  and  in  that  memorable  week, 
when  the  papers  were  so  full  of  the  one  great  event,  the 
Argzis  made  room  for  a long  leader,  in  which  these 
words  occur : — ‘ The  confirmed  and  detailed  account  of 
the  Aird  River  massacre  threw  a shadow  across  the 
Commonwealth  in  a week  of  historic  rejoicings.  It 
opened  up  a vista  of  Commonwealth  responsibility.  . . . 
There  is  no  denominational  limit  to  the  influence  such 
a splendid  character  as  Chalmers  possessed.  His  record 
is  an  inspiration  to  all  who  wish  to  do  their  duty  without 
regard  to  consequences.  Our  heroes  transfigure  life 
for  us.’ 

The  news  reached  England  when  the  great  anni- 
versaries were  being  held,  and  it  cast  a deep  gloom 
for  a time  over  all  the  friends  and  assemblies  associated 
with  missionary  work.  Yet  while  many  a heart  was 
saddened,  and  multitudes  felt  that  earth  had  suddenly 
become  poorer  by  the  translation  of  Tamate,  the  man 
whom  they  loved,  yet  they  did  not  and  could  not  sorrow 


The  Crown  of  Martyrdom  485 

as  those  without  hope.  Now,  as  of  old,  the  ways  of  God 
are  sometimes  through  the  darkness  and  the  storm  rather 
than  in  the  light.  To  human  judgement  it  seemed  as 
though  no  men  could  less  easily  be  spared  than  the 
veteran,  bravely  bearing  the  last  burden  of  a long  and 
strenuous  day,  and  his  eager  young  colleague,  full  of 
hope,  full  of  energy,  entirely  consecrated  to  the  new 
and  blessed  service  only  just  begun.  Does  not  God  by 
visitations  such  as  these  teach  us  that  the  uplifting  of 
our  heathen  brothers  and  sisters  ought  to  be  near  to  the 
heart  and  the  steady  purpose  of  all  His  servants  ? 

This  closing  scene  at  Dopima  is  on  the  one  side 
a cruel  and  revolting  tragedy,  on  the  other  it  is  a 
glorious  close  to  a noble  life.  For  the  man  who  had 
faced  death  a hundred  times  the  King  of  Terrors  had 
no  dread.  As  confidently  as  St.  Paul  Chalmers  would 
have  said  to  any  who  sought  to  hinder  him  in  his  work, 

‘ I am  ready  not  to  be  bound  only,  but  also  to  die  at 
Dopima  for  the  name  of  the  Lord  Jesus.’  If  in  the 
last  moment  of  life  he  was  conscious  of  what  was 
happening,  the  prayer  on  his  lips  was  that  of  the 
Master,  ‘ Father,  forgive  them  ; for  they  know  not  what 
they  do.’  The  long,  courageous,  self-denying  life,  suc- 
cessfully spent  by  God’s  grace  and  sustaining  power 
in  leading  men  out  of  the  darkness  of  savagery  into 
the  light  and  liberty  of  the  Gospel,  received  its  terrible 
but  glorious  coronation  when  in  the  horrific  dubu  of 
Dopima  there  descended  upon  Tamate  and  his  colleague 
the  blood-stained  crown  of  martyrdom. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

CHARACTERISTICS 

In  the  preparation  of  this  book  the  author  has  had 
the  hearty  and  willing  co-operation  of  many  of  Chal- 
mers’ most  intimate  friends.  Some  of  these  have  gladty 
supphed  appreciations  of  their  friend  and  fellow 
worker,  and  these  are  gathered  into  this  final  chapter. 
The  first  is  by  his  old  friend  and  colleague,  Dr.  Lawes 
of  \^atorata : — 

‘ It  is  not  easy  to  delineate  any  man’s  character,  and 
reproduce  a living  personahty  in  cold  type.  But  I find 
it  almost  impossible  to  translate  Tamate  into  black  and 
white.  He  is  not  to  be  measured  by  ordinarj"  standards, 
or  weighed  in  the  balance  of  ordinary'  men.  He  stood 
alone,  and  was  hardly'  amenable  to  the  laws  that  govern 
other  men.  How  can  I describe  him  as  he  was  to  us 
in  Xew  Guinea,  in  aU  his  charming  personality',  and  with 
ah.  his  wonderful  magnetic  influence  ? 

‘ He  was  first  and  last,  always  and  everywhere,  a 
missionary'.  He  lived  for  the  people  among  whom  he 
worked,  and  for  the  South  Sea  Islanders  who  were  his 
helpers  and  colleagues.  His  frank  and  generous  nature, 
his  genial,  loving  disposition  soon  won  the  hearts  of 
his  fellow  workers,  and  those  who  knew  him  best  trusted 
and  loved  him  most. 

‘ He  was  essentially'  a pioneer.  It  was  his  special  gift 
and  mission  “ to  prepare  the  way.”  Other  men  could 
perhaps  more  successfully  build  up  and  consolidate,  but 


Tamate’s  Open^heartedness  487 

he  was  second  to  none  in  the  initiatory  pioneering 
work.  In  physique  he  was  admirably  fitted  for  it. 
In  long  tramps,  and  in  rough  boat  journeys,  he  never 
seemed  to  know  fatigue  or  weariness,  and  could  go 
without  food  longer  than  any  man  I have  ever  known. 
Tamate  had  a share  in  the  opening  up  or  establishment 
of  almost  every  station  in  the  mission.  In  many  cases 
he  was  the  first  white  man  the  natives  knew,  and  they 
gave  him  unreservedly  their  confidence.  They  named 
their  Little  children  after  him,  and  it  was  a common  thing 
in  the  early  days,  when  he  visited  a place  after  two  or 
three  months’  absence,  to  have  three  or  four  little  brown 
babies  brought  to  him  as  the  most  recent  editions  of 
Tamate,  In  expectation  of  a godfather’s  present.  His 
generous  nature  was  weU  known.  He  never  went  on 
a journey  but  he  returned  with  an  impoverished  ward- 
robe, and  in  almost  every  native  congregation  some  of 
his  missing  garments  might  be  seen,  generally  two  or 
three  sizes  too  large  for  the  wearers.  His  name  became 
known  far  and  wide  as  that  of  the  natives’  friend  and 
the  man  of  peace.  Foreigners  were  looked  upon  with 
suspicion,  but  Tamate  became  a talisman  and  password 
with  which  the  natives  felt  protected  and  safe.  Other 
missionaries  have  come  to  New  Guinea  since  those  early 
days,  and  many  names  are  now  honoured,  but  with  the 
older  people,  from  east  to  west,  no  name  can  ever  be 
loved  and  trusted  as  that  of  Tamate.  As  the  true 
pioneer  of  peace,  and  light,  and  truth,  he  is  mourned 
in  New  Guinea,  and  his  memory  will  be  revered  and 
honoured  there  as  nowhere  else  in  the  world. 

‘ Every  reader  of  missionary  history  in  New  Guinea 
knows  the  splendid  service  rendered  by  the  South  Sea 
Island  teachers,  who,  with  their  lives  in  their  hands, 
have  gone  to  that  great  heathen  land  as  the  pioneers  of 


Characteristics 


488 

Christianity.  These  were  in  a very  especial  manner 
Tamate’s  delight  and  joy.  Most  of  them  were  from  the 
Cook  Islands,  of  which  Rarotonga  is  the  principal  island, 
and  the  one  best  known.  The  first  ten  3'ears  of  his 
missionary  life  were  spent  in  Rarotonga,  many  of  the 
teachers  were  trained  by  him,  and  he  knew  their 
language,  habits  of  thought,  and  customs,  thoroughly 
well.  In  New  Guinea  he  looked  upon  these  as  his 
special  charge,  and  was  always  ready  to  champion  their 
cause,  and  defend  them  against  wrong  or  injustice. 
And  they  revered  and  obeyed  him  as  their  own  father 
in  Christ.  In  every  South  Sea  Islander’s  home  in  New 
Guinea  Tamate  was  the  beloved  and  honoured  gaiest. 
His  example  was  their  inspiration,  and  his  approval 
their  stimulus.  The)'  lament  for  him  as  only  loyal 
brave  men  can  who  mourn  for  a fallen  leader  and 
captain, 

‘ Tamate  was  not  distinguished  as  a teacher.  He  was 
interesting  and  fascinating,  but  lacked  patience  and 
persistency.  Steady,  plodding,  persevering  teaching 
day  after  day  was  little  to  his  mind.  He  would  some- 
times throw  himself  into  the  work  of  teaching  with  all 
his  superabundant  energ)',  but  he  would  soon  tire  and 
want  to  be  oflf.  The  vagabond  instinct  was  strong  in 
him.  He  used  to  say  it  was  the  gipsy  blood  in  his  veins 
which  would  not  suffer  him  to  be  “ long  tied  to  a table 
leg.”  In  later  years,  when  he  was  not  so  well  able  to 
go  on  the  tramp  for  long  journeys,  he  did  some  good 
educational  work  at  Saguane,  but  it  was  contrary  to  his 
nature. 

‘ He  was  restless  as  a volcano,  and  as  subject  to 
eruptions.  He  gave  way  sometimes  to  violent  out- 
bursts, when  he  would  say  things  which  from  any 
other  lips  would  be  unkind  and  unjust,  but  his  brethren 


Tamate  as  a Raconteur 


489 

knew  that  there  was  no  grain  of  bitterness  or  malice  in 
his  great,  generous  heart.  The  South  Sea  Island  teachers 
said  of  these  rash,  impetuous  speeches,  Tamate  ena 
kara — “ It’s  Tamate ’s  way.”  He  was  very  impulsive,  and 
his  impulses  were  mostly  generous,  but  sometimes  they 
led  him  astray  and  showed  lack  of  judgement.  He  was 
naturally  of  hasty  temper,  but  of  late  years  especially 
this  was  very  much  under  restraint. 

‘ He  was  a splendid  racontetir^  with  plenty  of  imagina- 
tion, and  a spice  of  Eastern  exaggeration  and  hyperbole. 
In  his  public  addresses  and  sermons  he  had  the  same 
magnetic  power  over  a native  audience  as  that  which  he 
wielded  over  English  assemblies.  His  knowledge  of 
any  native  language  was  not  very  accurate  nor  complete  ; 
but  he  made  himself  understood,  and  any  deficiencies  in 
grammar  or  idiom  were  more  than  compensated  by 
voice  and  eye.  A scholar  in  the  ordinary  sense  of  the 
word  he  was  not,  the  steady,  plodding  work  of  the  desk 
was  irksome  to  him,  but  he  read  much  and  was  con- 
versant with  most  of  the  literature  of  the  day. 

‘ Tamate  was  a born  optimist,  of  a sanguine,  hopeful 
temperament.  Some  of  the  South  Sea  Island  teachers 
were  not  a success.  He  never  liked  to  see  any  of  them 
sent  home  as  incompetent,  he  was  always  willing  to  take 
them  over  “ to  give  them  another  chance.”  He  used  to 
say  he  rather  liked  the  failures,  had  a tender  place  for 
them  in  his  heart,  and  a hope  for  the  men  others  had 
given  up. 

‘ He  had  no  children  of  his  own,  and  this  perhaps 
made  him  more  tender  and  affectionate  for  the  children 
of  others.  His  love  for  children  was  one  of  the  beautiful 
traits  in  his  character. 

‘But  that  which  characterized  our  beloved  Tamate 
most  as  a missionary,  and  as  a leader  among  his  brethren. 


490 


Characteristics 


was  spiritual  power.  He  was  a Christian  of  the  robust, 
healthy  type,  \rith  instinctive  hatred  of  all  cant  and  sham. 
A man  of  great  faith,  mighty  in  prayer,  and  full  of  the 
love  of  Christ.  He  realized  to  a greater  degree  than 
most  men  what  it  is  to  live  in  Christ,  and  to  him  His 
presence  was  ver}'  real,  and  true,  and  constant.  And 
this  spiritual  power  was  the  secret  of  his  wonderful 
influence  over  men,  and  of  his  great  success  as  a 
missionaiy  : b}'  it  “ he  being  dead,  yet  speaketh.”  The 
memor)'  of  his  Christ  life  in  its  consecration  and 
unselfishness,  its  large-heartedness,  its  childlike  faith, 
its  communion  with  God,  its  unwearied  ser\dce,  and  in 
its  bright  hopefulness  is  the  rich  legacy  he  has  left  to 
us  in  New  Guinea,  and  to  all  his  missionary  brethren 
wherever  his  name  and  fame  may  come.’ 

The  Rev.  Joseph  King,  who  was  a missionary  in 
Samoa,  and  who  is  now  the  London  Missionary-  Society’s 
representative  in  Australia,  contributes  the  following 
recollections : — 

‘ In  i860  I went  to  London  to  appear  before  the 
Examination  Committee  of  the  London  ^lissionary- 
Society.  When  I entered  the  waiting-room  at  the 
Mission  House  I found  a young  Scotchman  there 
present  on  the  same  errand  as  myself.  It  was  James 
Chalmers ; and  in  that  room  forty-one  years  ago  com- 
menced a friendship,  interrupted  now  for  a brief  span, 
to  be  renewed  again  under  the  brighter  conditions  of 
the  heavenly  service. 

‘One  of  the  elements  of  Chalmers’  greatness  was  his 
extreme  modesty ; a more  modest  man  I never  kne'^v. 
I never  heard  him  sound  his  own  trumpet.  There  were 
trumpets  which  he  could  and  did  sound  with  marv'ellous 
effect,  but  his  own  trumpet  he  never  used.  His  modesty 
was  combined,  however,  with  an  intensity  of  conHction 


491 


Tamate^s  Gospel 

about  certain  things  which  often  found  expression  in 
fearless  declamation.  He  had  deep  convictions  about 
the  Gospel  of  Jesus  Christ,  and  about  the  responsibility 
of  churches  to  make  that  Gospel  known,  and  when 
roused  by  an  overpowering  conviction  that  the  churches 
were  neglecting  their  duty,  he  could  declaim  and  con- 
demn with  the  force  of  a Boanerges. 

‘ It  was  this  side  of  his  nature  that  savages  were  quick 
to  recognize.  They  often  fell  back  in  his  presence  when 
they  would  certainly  have  taken  advantage  of  a more 
timid  man.  The  combinations  of  his  character  were 
striking.  Great  will-power  and  dauntless  courage  were 
wedded  to  a most  tender  heart.  He  could  fight,  but  he 
could  also  weep.  He  never  lost  the  spirit  of  schoolboy 
joviality  and  fun,  but  no  one  could  be  more  sober  in 
earnest  talk.  The  secret  of  his  missionary  success  was, 
I think,  to  be  found  in  this,  that  he  never  doubted  his 
possession  of  a Gospel  for  savages.  .All  through  his 
missionary  career  the  fire  of  evangelical  fervour  was 
kept  alive,  and  never  did  he  so  fully  believe  that  Jesus 
Christ  had  a message  for  the  cannibals  of  New  Guinea 
as  when  he  started  on  his  last  expedition. 

‘I  once  saw  him  in  his  Fly  River  home,  the  most 
oppressively  lonely  mission  station  I have  ever  seen. 
To  have  lived  at  Saguane,  in  the  midst  of  the  mangrove 
swamps  of  the  Fly  Delta,  would  have  been  an  unbearable 
exile  to  most  men,  but  there,  on  an  island  mid-stream, 
which  seemed  to  him  to  be  a strategic  position  for  his 
work,  he  planted  his  home.  There  was  no  permanent 
village  near,  but  he  gathered  a few  friendly  natives 
around  him,  and  formed  the  nucleus  of  a Christian  com- 
munity. I was  with  the  Rev.  R.  Wardlaw  Thompson 
and  Mr.  William  Crosfield,  and  at  daybreak  we  went 
into  the  rudely  constructed  schoolhouse  he  had  built  on 


492 


Characteristics 


the  sand,  just  above  high  water  mark.  Twentj^-three 
boys  and  girls  were  gathered  before  him.  He  knew 
their  language,  but  he  was  teaching  them  English,  and 
with  a small  bamboo  stick  for  a baton,  which  I brought 
away  as  a memento  of  the  scene,  he  led  them  as  they 
sang  the  first  verse  of  “ God  save  the  Queen,”  and 
‘ All  hail  the  power  of  Jesu’s  name.”  I do  not  think 
Chalmers  ever  appeared  to  me  quite  so  great  a man  as 
when  I saw  him  thus  teaching  that  group  of  Fly  River 
children. 

‘ The  night  previous  to  this  I saw  him  amongst  friendly 
savages.  Twelve  miles  up  the  river  we  landed  at  lasa, 
a heathen  village  with  which  he  had  succeeded  in  estab- 
lishing friendly  relationship.  It  was  evening,  and  the 
darkness  added  impressiveness  to  the  scene.  Leaving 
our  boat  he  led  the  wa}^  through  a crowd  of  wild-looking 
men.  The  spell  his  man’y  figure  and  strong  face  threw 
over  them  as  he  went  before  us  toward  one  of  their  long 
houses,  and  into  the  weird  torch-lighted  interior,  was 
a sight  not  to  be  forgotten.  He  walked  as  a prince 
amongst  those  barbarous  chiefs.  They  were  disarmed 
by  his  manifest  human  sympathy,  and  they  received  us 
as  friends  for  Chalmers’  sake.  They  knew  nothing  of 
Jesus  Christ,  but  there  had  come  to  them  a sense  of 
brotherhood  with  one  of  Christ’s  faithful  followers,  and 
although  they  were  at  the  time  busily  engaged  preparing 
a heathen  feast  they  brought  us  fresh  cocoa-nuts  to 
drink,  and  in  the  light  of  the  torches  we  took  their 
proffered  cup  of  hospitality.  In  that  Stone  Age  interior, 
surrounded  by  such  sights  as  can  only  be  seen  in  savage 
life,  we  pledged  our  friendship  and  drank  to  that  sense 
of  brotherhood  which  explained  our  presence  there. 
Had  the  wild  crowd  in  the  dubu  at  Goaribari  known 
Chalmers  as  he  was  known  at  lasa  they  would  have 


Tamate^s  Enthusiasm  493 

dropped  their  clubs,  and  extended  to  him  and  his  com- 
panions the  same  hospitality. 

‘ The  communion  service  at  Port  Moresby,  at  which 
450  converted  savages  gathered  around  the  table  of  our 
Lord,  is  historical.  On  one  side  of  the  chair  I occupied 
sat  one  of  the  native  deacons,  the  notorious  robber  chief 
of  former  days,  and  on  the  other  side  James  Chalmers. 
He  had  never  before  seen  such  a large  gathering  of 
communicants,  and  tears  of  grateful  joy  filled  his  eyes  as 
the  service  proceeded,  and  as  he  thought  of  the  previous 
condition  of  those  people.  He  was  feeling  the  joy  of 
harvest  home  after  much  hardness  endured  in  plowing 
and  sowing.  The  Christian  deacon  and  the  Christian 
missionary  who  sat  by  me  at  that  communion  service  are 
both  dead,  and  have  they  not,  think  you,  met  in  the 
presence  of  Christ  ? What  joy  it  will  be  to  Chalmers  to 
meet  at  the  marriage  supper  of  the  Lamb  converts  from 
New  Guinea,  and  what  joy  it  will  be  to  them  to  see  him 
there  wearing  his  martyr  crown.’ 

While  Chalmers  could  not  be  called  a good  corre- 
spondent, yet  after  his  visit  to  England  in  1886,  and  also 
to  certain  old  and  warm  friends  in  Australia,  he  wrote 
regularly.  Many  of  these  letters  are  quoted  in  these 
pages.  Mrs.  Arthur  Edwards,  the  English  correspon- 
dent to  whom  he  probably  wrote  more  frequently  than 
to  any  other,  has  noted  the  following  characteristics  : — 

‘ One  leading  characteristic  of  Tamate  was  his  enthu- 
siasm. Friends  will  remember  hearing  him  when  on 
deputation  pray  “ Give  us  Christ’s  enthusiasm,”  and 
his  love  to  Christ,  which  was  very  intense,  must  have 
been  the  source  of  his  own  enthusiasm.  His  favourite 
phrase  at  family  prayers  was  “ Spread  around  us  the 
mantle  of  Thine  own  Love.” 

‘ Tamate  had  much  humility  in  his  character,  and 


494 


Characteristics 


never  seemed  to  care  to  be  made  much  of,  never  pushed 
himself  to  the  fore.  He  was  upset  bj’  applause  at 
public  meetings,  and  would  raise  his  hand  to  stop  it ; 
and  would  never  have  himself  placed  before  the  work. 
An  instance  of  this  occurs  to  me.  Tamate  was  eaorer 

o 

to  see  the  Lord  Mayor’s  Show  the  last  Saturday  before 
he  left  England,  and  !Mr.  Evan  Spicer,  hearing  of  his 
wish,  had  kindly  arranged  for  him  to  see  it  from  the 
Equitable  Office.  But  that  day  at  eleven  o’clock 
Tamate  was  fixed  to  speak  at  the  weekly  prayer 
meeting  of  the  London  City  ^Missionaries,  and  Mr. 
Spicer  meeting  us  going  there,  urged  me  to  get  it 
arranged  for  Tamate  to  come  on  first,  and  so  get  away 
in  time.  M*hen  alone,  and  we  were  making  for  Bride- 
well Place,  Tamate  turned  and  said  earnestly,  “ You 
won’t  do  that,  will  3’ou  } It  would  vex  me.  It  would 
be  putting  Christ  second."  So  nothing  was  said,  but 
Tamate  much  enjoyed  the  enthusiastic  meeting,  and 
the  private  recital  he  had  of  the  “ Coalies’  Baby  ’’  in 
^Ir.  Dawson's  room.  As  usual  it  was  arranged  for 
Tamate  to  speak  last,  and  so  he  missed  the  show  at 
the  appointed  place,  but  getting  in  by  a back  entrance 
to  the  Sunday  School  Union  managed  to  see  it  after  all. 

‘ Tamate  was  very  shy  by  nature,  and  always  more 
so  when  unsympathetic  folk  were  in  the  room.  In 
fact,  under  such  circumstances,  nothing  could  be  got 
out  of  Tamate  about  his  work,  and  he  seemed  in  a way 
paralysed.  A well-known  Congregational  minister,  who 
rarely  glanced  into  the  London  Misslonar}'  Society’s 
Chronicle^  and  who  considered  the  “ heathen  at  home  ’’ 
came  first— and  last — was  invited  to  meet  Tamate  at 
dinner,  and  leaning  over  the  table  he  remarked  to 
Tamate  opposite,  “Mr.  Chalmers,  do  you  consider  the 
Gospel  has  made  any  way  in  New  Guinea  ? ’’  Of  this 


Tamate  a Man  of  Prayer  495 

type  of  home  minister  he  would  at  times  speak  in  some- 
what vehement  terms. 

‘ Tamate  had  great  spiritual  force,  and  true  Scotch 
reverence  for  all  that  was  Divine,  rarely  speaking  of 
his  inmost  feelings.  But  in  his  letters,  as  the  preceding 
pages  show,  he  would  write  often  of  his  longing  to  be 
nearer  Christ.  To  him  to  live  was  to  pray.  He  wrote 
to  a friend  who  was  in  great  anxiety  about  a certain 
Society  in  which  she  was  interested,  “ Don’t  make  plans 
till  you  have  prayed  about  it,  or  you  will  spoil  all.” 
One  last  memory  of  him  as  he  left  England  that  dull 
November  morning  in  1895  was  in  prayer.  Many 
friends  met  at  Fenchurch  Street  Station  to  bid  him 
God-speed,  but  only  a few  went  down  to  the  Merkara 
at  Tilbury.  And  as  the  first  bell  sounded  for  the 
visitors  to  leave  the  boat,  Tamate  shut  the  door  of  his 
cabin,  and  asked  Dr.  Lawson  Forster  of  Queen’s  Park 
to  engage  in  prayer.  And  then  we  said  good-bye.  As 
the  tug  bore  us  away,  that  lonely,  God -possessed, 
earnest  Tamate,  clad  in  ulster,  with  lifted  hat,  could 
be  seen  motionless  on  the  upper  deck  for  a long  long 
way.’ 

The  Rev.  James  E.  Newell,  the  well-known  Samoan 
missionary,  married  a daughter  of  the  Rev.  W.  Wyatt- 
Gill,  of  Mangaia.  This  lady  Chalmers  had  known  and 
loved  as  a child.  He  also  saw  them  in  their  home  at 
Malua  in  1890.  Mr.  Newell  has  indicated  some  very 
striking  characteristics  in  Chalmers’  wonderful  person- 
ality : — 

‘James  Chalmers  had  a quite  remarkable  power  of 
remembering  and  distinguishing  faces.  Mr.  Marriott 
had  twin  daughters,  so  much  alike  in  form  and  feature 
that  even  their  parents  had  to  ask,  “ Are  you  Elsie  or 
Lily  ? ” On  the  day  of  Tamate’s  arrival  at  Malua  (1890) 


Characteristics 


496 

he  saw  the  two  girls,  and  each  told  him  her  name.  He 
never  afterwards  confounded  the  two,  though  we  tried 
several  artful  htde  deceptions  on  him ; but  he  made  no 
mistake.  He  \dsited  besides  Malua  and  Apia,  the 
district  of  Le  Faasaleleaga  (Savaii),  and  also  the  district 
of  Falealili  (Upolu).  During-  the  subsequent  part  of  his 
time  at  iMalua  several  natives  whom  he  had  seen  at  the 
mission  station  on  Savaii  called  at  ]\Ialua.  They  were 
astonished  and  much  gratified  to  find  that  he  remem- 
bered their  faces,  and  in  cases  where  he  had  been  told 
the  names  saluted  the  individuals  by  name.  It  -was  a 
faculty  I never  saw  so  acute  in  any  other  person  I ever 
met. 

‘ It  needs  no  argument  or  illustration  to  show  what 
a mar\'ellous  aid  this  God-given  endowment  was  to 
Tamate  in  New  Guinea.  There  can  be  no  question  that 
it  was  rendered  more  acute  by  his  alert  spiritual  nature. 
Unconsciously  perhaps  a “ passion  for  souls  ” (to  use  a 
rather  abused  phrase)  was  the  ruling-  motive  with  him. 
He  had  scarcely  any  consciousness  of  the  mere  externals 
of  a man — never  any  incongruity  in  baptizing  a naked 
savage.  But  he  never  missed  drawing  an  inference  from 
what  a man  or  a woman  did^  and  sometimes  these  swift 
judg-ements  were  -wrong  and  had  to  be  corrected ; but  it 
was  then  noticeable  that  he  never  remembered  the  first 
judgement.  He  just  as  swiftly  pronounced  the  revised 
judgement.  It  was  as  though  he  had  come  across  another 
person,  and  not  the  same  one  he  had  seen  and  written 
about  or  spoken  about  shortly  before.  In  this  respect  he 
can  be  said  to  have  had  the  chief  characteristic  endowment 
of  the  ideal  missionar}%  It  was  this  which  gave  zest  and 
interest  to  his  life  and  work  beyond  all  other  endow- 
ments and  sent  him  forth  to  new  regions.  How  often 
he  has  remarked  that  the  sturdiest  and  the  most  pro- 


Tamate's  Self-control 


497 


mising  human  material  in  New  Guinea  were  the  distinctly 
cannibal  tribes,  and  he  would  rather  have  to  deal  with 
them  than  with  any  other. 

‘ This  alertness  and  zest  for  the  knowledge  of  those 
with  whom  he  came  in  contact  was  illustrated  by  the 
vivid  and  intensely  enthusiastic  way  he  spoke  of  each 
of  the  Malua  students,  who  formed  his  boat’s  crew  to 
Savaii,  He  did  not  know  Samoan,  but  he  had  found 
out  the  names  of  the  men,  and  gave  me  his  judgement 
of  the  individual  men.  I was  much  impressed  at  the 
time  with  this  incident.  I think  all  the  men  of  that 
boat’s  crew  offered  for  service  in  New  Guinea,  though 
only  some  eight  of  them  were  appointed,  there  being 
obstacles  in  the  way  of  sending  the  others. 

‘ His  sturdy  self-control  was  also  remarkable.  The 
incidents  I recall  will  appear  trivial,  but  I cannot  but 
think  they  are  not  without  value.  I noticed  at  Malua 
that  Tamate  was  not  smoking.  Now  he  loved  the  weed. 
I asked  him  why  he  did  not  get  his  pipe.  “ Oh,”  he 
said,  “ sometimes  I find  myself  getting  too  fond  of  the 
pipe,  and  I have  over  and  over  again  tested  my  power 
to  prevent  the  thing  mastering  me  by  knocking  it  off 
for  days.”  At  dinner  one  day  he  called  for  a cocoa-nut, 
and  pleasantly  but  decidedly  refused  any  other  food, 
and  sat  through  the  meal  eating  his  cocoa-nut.  My  wife 
quietly  acquiesced,  and  there  was  no  fuss.  Will  any  one 
deny  that  this  complete  knowledge  of  his  physical  needs 
and  requirements  and  the  common-sense  application  of 
his  will  to  such  details  was  largely  the  secret  of  that 
physical  endurance  and  strength  which  enabled  him  to 
cross  the  bogs  in  the  Fly  River  territory  ? 

‘ His  will  power  was  remarkable.  Discussing  at  Malua 
with  him  theweaknesses,as  well  as  the  other  characteristics 
of  the  native  South  Sea  Island  missionaries,  he  spoke  of 


Characteristics 


498 

their  lack  of  will  power  and  their  well-known  “ fatalism,” 
in  reference  especially  to  death.  He  had  a deep-rooted 
conviction  that  men  died  in  New  Guinea  from  lack  of 
wiU  power  as  much  as  anything-.  And  my  wife  got  him 
to  teU  of  an  experience  he  had  had  at  East  Cape  in  the 
early  days.  He  had  landed  there  with  two  Rarotonga  n 
teachers,  hoping  to  locate  them.  He  was  stricken  with 
fever  and  became  unconscious.  As  he  lay  there,  his 
companions  expecting  every  moment  that  he  would 
breathe  his  last  breath,  they  began  to  discuss  their  own 
most  critical  position  amongst  savages  with  a dead  body. 
Chalmers  overheard  the  whispers  of  the  men,  and  the 
thought  occurred  to  him  as  he  recovered  consciousness, 
“ This  cannot  be  God’s  will,”  for  he  knew  how  true  the 
forecast  was.  And  he  said  to  one  of  the  men,  “ Bring 
me  my  pipe.”  At  first  the  teacher  thought  Tamate  was 
delirious,  but  when  the  request  was  repeated  it  was 
granted.  “ Fill  it,”  said  the  prostrate  missionary.  And 
the  teacher  filled  the  pipe  and  inserted  it  into  his  leader’s 
mouth.  But  althoug-h  Tamate  had  not  streng-th  enougfh 
to  even  draw  the  pipe,  the  object  that  he  had  had  in 
view  was  gained.  This  was  to  arouse  himself,  and  to 
inspire  hope  in  the  hearts  of  his  dear  comrades.  And 
from  that  moment  Tamate  began  to  recover. 

‘ I do  not  think  that  the  published  accounts  of  the 
Kalo  massacre  give  the  real  occasion  for  that  tragedy. 
In  his  address  at  Malua  (which  I interpreted  for  the 
students  and  wives  and  the  boy  boarders  / Tamate  told 
the  story  with  power  and  pathos,  never  surely  equalled 
before  any  other  audience.  I shall  never  forget  how 
I bowed  my  own  head  and  how  my  own  voice  thrilled 
with  the  emotion  which  was  almost  too  great  to 
bear.  But  the  point  I want  to  notice  about  it  is  the 
application  he  made  of  the  unhappy  incident  which 


499 


Love  for  his  Rarotongans 

gave  rise  to  the  massacre.  The  Rarotongan  teacher’s 
wife  at  Kalo  had  had  a visit  from  the  young  wife  of  the 
chief,  who  had  been  rather  troublesome  begging  for 
tobacco.  The  Rarotongan  woman,  going  out  on  the 
verandah  of  the  house  (which  was  elevated  above  the 
ground  as  such  houses  are  in  New  Guinea)  where 
the  New  Guinea  woman  was  standing,  pushed  her,  and 
the  woman  fell  down  from  the  verandah  on  to  the  ground 
below.  She  was  not  injured,  but  went  home,  and  on  the 
arrival  of  her  husband  he  found  her  sulking  in  the  house. 
Without  replying  to  his  questions  in  words,  she  pointed 
to  the  spears  and  arrows  in  the  roof  of  the  house,  and 
with  a taunt  ordered  him  to  avenge  the  insult.  As  he 
gathered  his  young  men  together  a party  of  teachers 
landed,  who  were  calling  at  Kalo  for  their  colleague  to 
accompany  them  to  a meeting  of  the  mission  or  district 
(I  think  at  Port  Moresby).  The  moral  of  the  story  for 
the  students  and  their  wives,  who  might  be  going  to 
New  Guinea,  was  obvious,  and  it  was  trenchantly  and 
very  solemnly  enforced.  I have  often  quoted  the  story 
in  my  own  farewell  addresses  to  outgoing  bands  of 
native  teachers  since  that  time. 

‘ Tamate  ever  manifested  pride  and  love  for  the  Raro- 
tongan teachers.  This  characteristic — the  love  for  his 
fellow  labourers,  who,  like  the  first  converts  to  Chris- 
tianity in  the  cities  of  Asia  Minor,  were  a comfort  to  the 
Apostle  Paul — Tamate  possessed  in  common  with  every 
missionary  who  has  seen  the  native  Christian  come  into 
the  realization  of  the  great  Divine  impulse  to  evangelize, 
and  has  rejoiced  in  it  as  the  best  of  all  evidence  of  the 
power  of  the  Gospel.  Still  it  was  a feature  in  Tamate 
which  made  him  so  irresistible.  If  you  could  get  Tamate 
to  speak  of  his  Rarotongans  you  had  touched  a chord 
which  vibrated  with  every  impulse  of  his  great  heart. 

I i 2 


500 


Characteristics 


‘ I can  see  that  face  lighted  up  with  joy  as  he  told 
of  Piri  and  of  Ruatoka — men  much  beloved  in  Samoa. 
Piri  especially  had  left  behind  in  Samoa,  where  he 
laboured  for  a time,  a memory  very  fragrant  of  good- 
ness. There  are  men  to-day  who  call  themselves  his 
“ sons,”  and  know  that  heaven  will  be  more  of  heaven 
to  them  when  they  reach  that  goal,  because  of  Piri’s 
presence.’ 

We  close  this  record  with  two  other  testimonies,  one 
representing  those  whose  life  and  work  are  quite  apart 
from  missionary  thought  and  aims ; the  other  repre- 
senting those  whom  Tamate  most  fervently  loved,  and 
who  were  in  the  closest  possible  touch  with  him 
throughout  his  missionary  life. 

Mr.  G.  Seymour  Fort,  in  a character  sketch  which 
appeared  in  the  Empire  Review  shortly  after  the  death 
of  Chalmers,  sketched  him  as  he  was  when  helping 
Sir  Peter  Scratchley  to  get  to  know  New  Guinea  and 
its  people  in  1885 

‘ Chalmers’  voice  in  a wonderful  way  interpreted  his 
rich,  many-sided  character.  My  experience  of  men 
has  been  a somewhat  varied  one,  and  I can  recall  no 
man  whose  voice  had  for  me  the  same  magnetic  quality, 
ranging  from  exquisite  tenderness  to  imperial  command. 
For  the  sick,  for  the  old,  for  any  one  who  sought  his 
advice  in  trouble,  his  tones  were  deep  and  sympathetic, 
but  there  was  no  mistaking  the  note  of  absolute 
authority  with  which  I heard  him  restore  order  in  a 
panic  at  sea,  and  compel  fighting  natives  to  lay  down 
their  arms. 

‘ Absolutely  fearless  in  action,  Chalmers  was  also 
wise  in  counsel,  and,  when  necessary,  very  prudent  and 
cautious.  Natives  have  often  curious  codes  of  signals, 
whereby  they  show  their  attitude  and  intentions  ; some- 


Chalmers  as  Pioneer 


501 


times  even  the  nature  and  position  of  the  flowers  in 
their  hair  signify  hostility  or  friendliness,  and  for  these 
signals  Chalmers  was  ever  watchful.  Once  we  wanted 
to  land  on  an  unknown  spot,  and  amongst  natives  who 
had  never  been  visited  before.  For  hours,  however,  he 
kept  us  waiting  in  the  boat  until  presents  had  been 
exchanged,  we  giving  them  a coloured  pocket-hand- 
kerchief, they  pushing  out  to  us  on  a canoe  a few  cocoa- 
nuts.  As  soon  as  we  landed  we  were  surrounded  by 
wonder-stricken  natives,  marvelling  at  our  clothes  and 
colour.  Suddenly  a shout  of  fear  arose,  and  one  and 
all  fled  into  the  bush.  We  retreated  to  the  boat,  but 
Chalmers  went  forward  and  eventually  persuaded  them 
to  come  out.  Then  we  learnt  that  they  had  imagined 
that  one  of  the  sailors,  who  had  sat  down  to  take  his 
shoe  off,  was  taking  himself  to  pieces.  Hence  their 
alarm  and  flight. 

‘ New  Guinea  is  an  unknown  tropical  corner  of  our 
Empire,  and  from  a commercial  point  of  view  of  com- 
paratively little  value  ; but  the  pioneer  work  done  by 
James  Chalmers  in  opening  up  communications  with 
the  natives,  and  thus  rendering  Europeans’  exploitation 
possible,  was  emphatically  imperial  in  character.  As 
an  explorer  and  pioneer,  his  name  should  stand  high 
in  the  annals  of  our  Imperial  history.  With  regard  to 
the  man  himself,  I can  only  consider  myself  as  most 
fortunate  to  have,  in  a very  small  way,  shared  in  his 
work,  and  to  have  been  accounted  by  him  amongst 
his  friends.  He  will  ever  live  in  memory  as  a rich 
emotional  nature  allied  with  finest  fighting  qualities  of 
our  Saxon  race,  and  as  one  who  achieved  difiicult 
and  disappointing  work  with  noble  sympathy  and 
courage.’ 

The  last  is  a testimony  on  the  principle  of  our  Lord’s 


502 


Characteristics 


saying-,  ‘ By  their  fruits  ye  shall  know  them.’  The 
preceding  pages  of  this  book  contain  ample  evidence 
of  the  nobility  of  character,  of  the  consistent  Christian 
life,  and  of  the  effective  working  power  possessed  by 
Ruatoka,  of  Port  Moresby.  We  have  given  ^ Chalmers’ 
own  tender  and  sympathetic  sketch  of  this  man,  through 
which  there  runs  an  almost  paternal  pride.  Not  long 
after  the  massacre  at  Dopima,  Ruatoka  wrote  the 
following  letter  to  the  Rev.  H.  M.  Dauncey : — 

‘ May  you  have  life  and  happiness.  At  this  time  our 
hearts  (insides)  are  very  sad,  because  Tamate  and 
Mr.  Tomkins  and  the  boys  are  not  here,  and  we  shall 
not  see  them  again.  I have  wept  much.  My  father 
Tamate’s  body  I shall  not  see  again,  but  his  spirit  we 
shall  certainly  see  in  heaven,  if  we  are  strong  to  do  the 
work  of  God  thoroughly  and  all  the  time,  till  our  time 
(on  earth)  shall  finish.  Hear  my  wish.  It  is  a great 
wish.  The  remainder  of  my  strength  I would  spend 
in  the  place  where  Tamate  and  Mr.  Tomkins  were 
killed.  In  that  village  I would  live.  In  that  place 
where  they  killed  men,  Jesus  Christ’s  name  and  His 
word  I would  teach  to  the  people,  that  they  may  become 
Jesus’  children.  My  wish  is  just  this.  You  know  it. 
I have  spoken.’ 

When  David  said,  ‘Oh  that  one  would  give  me  drink  of 
the  water  of  the  well  of  Bethlehem,  which  is  by  the  gate  !’ 
three  of  his  mighty  men  endangered  their  lives  to  gratify 
his  wish,  and  in  their  action  we  have  one  standard  of 
the  greatness  of  David.  When  James  Chalmers  falls  at 
Dopima,  Ruatoka,  his  boy,  his  colleague,  his  trusted 
friend,  writes,  ‘ It  is  a great  wish.  The  remainder  of  my 
strength  I would  spend  in  the  place  where  Tamate  and 
Mr.  Tomkins  were  killed.’  Here  is  the  standard  by 
' See  pages  132-8. 


Chalmers  an  Inspiration  503 

which  to  estimate  James  Chalmers’  influence.  He  was 
a man  who  could,  and  who  did,  nerve  others  to  become 
willing  and  ready  to  sacrifice  even  life  itself  in  the  effort 
to  help  men  to  become  the  children  of  Jesus.  Having 
kept  back  nothing  himself,  he  was  able  to  inspire  in 
others  a burning  enthusiasm  for  the  salvation  of  savage 
men  akin  to  that  with  which  his  own  heart  was  aflame. 


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INDEX 


Agere,  m native,  435. 

Aitutaki,  arrival  at,  69. 

Anederea,  book  translated  by,  167  ; 
story  of,  203. 

Aneiteum,  wreck  at,  61. 

Annexation  of  New  Guinea,  236  sq. 

Apia,  reception  at,  66. 

Ardrishaig,  state  of,  15,  18. 

Argus,  The,  on  death  of  Chalmers, 
484. 

Arthington,  Mr.,  meeting  with,  426 ; 
death  of,  465. 

Amadaera,  story  of,  137;  preaching 
of,  225. 

Arnako,  preaching  of,  225. 

Askwith,  Mr.  G.  R.,  testimony  of, 
283. 

Autobiography,  quoted,  15,  24,  29, 
52,  59,  60,  65,  76,  115,  125,  315, 
427,  467. 

Avarua,  arrival  at,  70. 

Bald  Head,  208. 

Baramura,  455. 

Bear,  story  of  a brown,  45. 

Bell,  Inveraray  church,  458, 

Beni,  a native  teacher,  153. 

Bertha,  the,  voyage  in,  127  ; attempt 
to  murder  crew  of,  139. 

Beswick,  Mr.  Thomas,  arrival  of, 
191  ; retirement  of,  198. 

Bible,  the  forecastle,  presentation 
of,  67. 

Bob,  Captain,  statement  of,  473. 

Bocasi,  a warrior,  144;  death  of, 
147. 

B06  Vagi,  made  chief  of  Port 
Moresby,  239. 


Boera,  visit  to,  177. 

Book  printed,  native,  167. 

Bore  on  the  Fly  River,  409. 

Bridge,  Vice-Admiral,  on  Chalmers’ 
services,  265. 

Brumer  Islands,  visit  to,  152. 

Bull  Roarer,  the,  454. 

Camden,  the,  58. 

Campbell,  Mr.  J.,  21. 

Chalmers,  Mr.,  sen.,  death  of,  93. 

Chalmers,  Rev.  James,  ancestry 
of,  13;  his  Autobiography,  15; 
his  birthplace,  15  ; his  parents, 
15;  his  first  school,  15;  boyish 
adventures,  1 7 ; life  at  Glenaray, 
18;  school  days,  t8;  saves  J. 
Minto  from  drowning,  20;  saves 
another  life,  21 ; enters  lawyers’ 
office,  22 ; determines  to  be  a 
missionary,  23 ; his  religious 
training,  24 ; his  conversion,  26  ; 
joins  Glasgow  City  Mission,  28  ; 
enters  Cheshunt  College,  29;  saves 
a student  from  drowning,  30,  37  ; 
his  expenses  at  college,  31  ; letters 
on  college  life,  32,  33 ; Rev.  G.  L. 
Turner’s  recollections  of,  34 ; 
Rev.  W.  Harris’s,  36 ; Rev.  J. 
Thomas’s,  37;  Rev.W.G.Horder’s, 
38 ; Rev.R.Wardlaw  Thompson’s, 
44 ; leaves  Cheshunt,  48 ; goes 
to  Highgate,  49 ; his  marriage, 
52  ; his  desire  to  go  abroad,  56 ; 
ordination  of,  57;  sails  for  Aus- 
tralia, 58 ; the  voyage,  59  ; ar- 
rival in  Australia,  60  ; wrecked  at 
Aneiteum,  61 ; wrecked  at  Nine, 


Index 


506 

Chalmers,  Rev.  James — 

62  ; nearly  lost  in  the  surf,  65  ; 
reception  at  Apia,  66 ; Bible 
presented  to  him,  67 ; arrival  at 
Mangaia,  68 ; a narrow  escape, 
68 ; arrival  at  Aitutald,  69 ; ar- 
rival at  Avama,  70 ; reception  at 
Rarotonga,  76  ; visit  to  Mangaia, 
81;  his  dealing  with  the  drink 
question,  84 ; at  a meeting  of 
chiefs,  84  ; criticisms  of,  87  ; re- 
ceives news  of  death  of  his  father, 
93 ; his  Report  for  1 8 70, 94 ; forms 
a volunteer  corps,  95 ; starts  a 
newspaper,  96 ; his  discussion 
with  Rev.  H.  Royle,  97 ; his  de- 
sire to  go  to  the  heathen,  99  ; his 
Reportfori872,i05;  workofvisi- 
tation  by,  106  ; his  views  on  native 
church  organization,  109;  his  de- 
parture from  Rarotonga,  118  ; his 
reluctance  to  return  home,  120; 
minute  of  farewell,  1 2 1 ; his  visit 
to  New  Zealand,  126  ; at  Dam- 
ley  Island,  127;  at  Murray 
Island,  127;  arrival  at  Port 
Moresby,  127;  his  first  visit  to 
East  Cape,  139;  his  landing 
at  Suan,  140 ; reception  there, 
I4t ; dangerous  dispute  at,  143  ; 
life  among  the  savages,  145;  a 
fatal  attack  on  the  Mayri,  146; 
his  life  in  peril,  150;  visit  to 
Leocadie  Group,  151;  visit  to 
Brumer  Islands,  152  ; nearly 
poisoned,  152;  at  Tepanri,  152; 
at  Faim  Bay,  155  ; native  interest 
in  his  clothing,  155  ; at  Fife  Bay, 
157;  a narrow  escape,  137;  at 
Dahuni,  158  ; further  troubles  with 
the  natives,  159;  a native  funeral, 
160 ; adventure  at  Dufaure  Island, 
161 ; teachers  poisoned  at  Isuisu, 
163  ; at  Port  Moresby,  166  ; trans- 
lation, work  of,  1 74 ; first  explora- 


Chaljiers,  Rev.  James— 

tion  trip,  175  ; visits  stations  in 
Torres  Straits,  176  ; visits  Boera, 
177;  his  inland  journeys,  180; 
at  Diodio,  182;  another  inland 
journey,  184 ; separation  from  his 
wife,  186 ; journal  of,  quoted,  186  ; 
comic  scene  in  a church,  187 ; 
again  at  Port  Moresby,  190;  joined 
by  Mr.  T.  Beswick,  191  ; death  of 
his  wife,  192  ; visits  New  Zealand, 
193  ; visits  Australia,  194;  returns 
to  New  Guinea,  195  ; visits  Ka- 
badi,  198  ; his  first  visit  to  Motu- 
motu,  199;  trip  to  Elema,  208; 
his  views  on  tobacco  currency, 
215;  his  unwillingness  to  return 
home,  221  ; his  first  visit  to  Oro- 
kolo,  225  ; a peace-making  expe- 
dition, 227;  thoughts  of  home, 
232 ; his  connexion  with  annexa- 
tion, 236;  his  views  concerning 
it,  239 ; his  views  on  the  land 
swindle,  241  ; at  Kerepunu,  348  ; 
at  Toulon  Island,  249  ; at  Cloudy 
Bay,  250;  thanks  to,  352;  his 
views  on  government,  255 ; on 
the  land  question,  356;  on  native 
clothing,  257  ; on  education,  258  ; 
voyage  in  the  Raven,  258;  his 
views  on  German  annexation,  361 ; 
his  first  visit  home,  267  ; deputa- 
tion work,  269  ; at  Retford,  270; 
at  Cheltenham,  271 ; at  North- 
ampton, 271 ; his  books  published, 
272;  at  Exeter  Hall,  273,  276; 
at  the  Colonial  Institute,  279  ; at 
the  Royal  Geographical  Society, 
282  ; at  Inveraray,  283  ; his  return 
voyage,  284;  arrives  in  Australia, 
288;  before  the  Geographical 
Society,  290 ; at  Sydney,  293  ; 
again  at  New  Guinea,  293;  re- 
ception at  Motumotu,  298 ; his 
visit  to  Moveave,  399 ; use  of  a 


Index 


507 


Chat.mers,  Rev.  James — 
telephone,  301  ; baptisms  at  Val- 
rikori,  302 ; his  private  corre- 
spondence, 302  ; his  description 
of  Tife  at  Port  Moresby,  303 ; 
granted  free  telegrams,  307  ; asks 
for  tomahawks,  307 ; further  jour- 
neys, 307 ; capsized  in  Redscar 
Bay,  31 1 ; first  trip  in  the  Harrier, 
313;  his  engagement  to  Mrs. 
Harrison,  316;  his  second  mar- 
riage, 317;  settlement  at  Toari pi, 
321;  dangerous  landing  at  Maiva, 
332  ; baptisms,  333  ; disappointed 
he  could  not  ascend  Mount  Owen 
Stanley,  334 ; life  at  Toaripi,  336  ; 
some  dangerous  fights,  341  ; his 
trip  to  Fly  River,  344 ; voyage  to 
Samoa,  349  ; meets  R.  L.  Steven- 
son, 350  ; questioned  by  Samoan 
students,  362  ; revisits  Rarotonga, 
364 ; his  reception  there,  367 ; 
his  impressions  of,  369 ; the  return 
journey,  370 ; arrival  at  Port 
Moresby,  371 ; a terrible  night, 
372  ; again  at  Toaripi,  373 ; 
wrecked  in  the  Harrier,  375  ; his 
order  of  work,  380 ; breaking  a 
tapu,  381;  illness  of  390;  a 
struggle  with  a native,  392  ; in 
the  surf  at  Diabu,  392  ; parting 
with  his  wife,  393  ; at  Saguane, 
396 ; returns  to  England,  399 ; 
appointed  to  Fly  River,  399 ; 
at  committee  meeting,  Port 
Moresby,  400 ; his  thanks  for 
books,  403  ; first  trip  in  the  Miro, 
404 ; at  Saguane,  407 ; at  Domori, 
408  ; at  Dauan,  408 ; a bore  in 
the  river,  409  ; at  Sumai,  410 ; at 
Jokea,  411  ; called  to  England, 
412  ; his  deputation  work,  415; 
at  Cheshunt  College,  417;  at 
Edinburgh,  419;  breakdown  of, 
423 ; at  Inveraray,  424 ; his 


Chai.mers,  Rev.  James — 

speech  there,  425  ; meeting  with 
Mr.  Arthington,  426 ; returns 
to  Saguane,  427;  his  new 
sphere,  429 ; his  school  work, 
43  r;  nearly  wrecked  at  Vailala, 
433 ; pastoral  work  at  Torres 
Straits,  434;  at  Ogar,  439;  at 
Yam,  440;  at  Mabuiag,  441 ; at 
Saibai,  442 ; an  accident,  445  ; 
a time  of  peril,  448 ; at  Cocoa-nut 
Island,  449;  a scrimmage,  451; 
baptisms,  453 ; at  Queensland, 
454;  at  Baramura,  435;  New 
Year’s  gatherings,  436  ; sketch  of 
his  wife’s  life,  459 ; death  of  his 
wife,  460 ; his  solace  in  bereave- 
ment, 463 ; his  last  views  on 
mission  work,  467 ; his  last  letters, 
469 ; starts  on  his  last  voyage, 
470;  meetings  at  Daru,  471 ; last 
entry  in  diary,  471;  punitive  ex- 
pedition, 474,  478 ; narrative  of 
the  murder  by  Dopima  native, 
480 ; impressions  made  by  the 
tragedy,  483 ; Dr.  Lawes  on 
characteristics  of,  486 ; Rev.  J. 
King  on  character  of,  490;  Mrs. 
A.  Edwards  on,  491  ; Rev.  J.  E. 
Newell  on,  495 ; his  love  of 
Rarotongan  teachers,  499 ; Rua- 
toka’s  tribute  to,  502, 

Chalmers,  Mrs.  J.,  letter  of,  on  the 
drink  question,  88  ; at  Suau, 
145;  heroism  of,  167;  diary  of, 
169;  illness  of,  184;  separation 
of,  186  ; death  of,  192. 

Chalmers,  Mrs.  E.,  sketch  of  her 
life,  315,  316;  marriage  of, 
317;  her  journal  quoted,  317, 
336,  383;  at  Toaripi,  321;  ill- 
ness of,  327,  343 ; loneliness  of, 
329;  voyage  of,  332;  alone  at 
Toaripi,  345;  courage  of,  348; 
at  Rarotonga,  366 ; her  illness. 


Index 


508 

Chalmers,  Mis.  E. 

349  ; atSagnane,  427  ; difficulties 
with  children,  444,  446 ; a time 
of  peril,  44S  ; in  Australia,  454 ; 
her  last  days,  459  ; her  death,  460. 

Cheshnnt  College,  life  at,  31 ; sta- 
tions of,  40;  numbers  of  stu- 
dents, 49. 

Cheshnnt  Union,  meeting  of,  41 7. 

Chester,  Mr.,  181  ; annexation  by, 
237  ; report  of,  238. 

Chiefs,  meeting  of,  84. 

Circumcision,  rite  of,  260. 

Climatic  influences,  165. 

Clothing,  native,  257. 

Cloudy  Bay,  visit  to,  250. 

Coercion  used  by  native  teachers, 
230- 

Committee  meeting  at  Port  Mores- 
by, 400. 

Communion  at  Port  Moresby,  493. 

Dahnni,  visit  to,  158. 

Dancing,  native,  397. 

Darroch,  Mr.,  22. 

Darwin’s  account  of  Pol3mesians, 104. 

Dauncey,  Rev.  H.  M.,  arrival  of, 
315  ; letters  on  death  of  Chal- 
mers, 472,  477. 

Death  wail,  the,  337. 

Dinner  Island,  exchange  of,  314. 

Diodio,  reception  at,  182. 

Dopima,  massacre  at,  473  state- 
ment of  native  of,  480. 

Drink,  curse  of,  79,  83,  105,  107. 

Dufaure  Island,  adventure  at,  161. 

Dimedin,  Chalmers  at,  126. 

Eclipse  of  the  moon,  an,  171. 

Education  of  natives,  258. 

Edwards,  Mrs.  A.,  on  characteristics 
of.  493- 

Elema,  trip  to,  208. 

Ella,  Rev.  S.,  on  the  death  of  Mrs. 
Chalmers,  192. 


Empire  Review,  on  character  of 
Chalmers,  500. 

Erskine,  Commodore,  report  of,  on 
Protectorate,  245 ; visits  native 
school,  246  ; his  ofiicial  report, 

254- 

Farm  Bay,  visit  to,  155. 

Fife  Bay,  visit  to,  157. 

Fort,  Mr.  G.  S.,  on  character  of 
Chalmers,  500. 

Funeral,  a native,  160. 

German  storekeeper,  story  of  a,  136. 
Germany,  annexation  by,  261. 

Gill,  Rev.  Wyatt,  reception  by,  68, 
102. 

Glanville,  Dr.,  testimony  of,  281. 
Glenaray,  18. 

Goaribari,  Island  of,  477. 

Gold  prospectors  at  New  Guinea, 
134- 

Guthrie,  Wm.,  story  of,  42. 

Harrier,  the,  313  : wreck  of,  375. 
Harris,  Rev.  W.,  recollections  of, 

36. 

Harrison,  Mrs.,  marriage  of,  317; 
journal  of,  quoted,  317;  see 
Chalmers,  Mrs.  E. 

Hayes,  ‘ BnUy,’  66  ; letter  of  thanks 
from,  70. 

Henderson,  Captain,  testimony  of, 
281. 

Hercus,  Miss  J.,  Chalmers’  first  wife, 

52- 

Hertford  Heath,  church  at,  40. 
Hoop  Iron  Bay,  touching  scene  at, 
250. 

H order.  Rev.  W.  G.,  testimony  of, 

38. 

Hunt,  Mr.,  letter  of,  on  murder  of 
Chalmers,  483. 

lasa,  reception  at,  49a. 


Index 


Incantations,  native,  183. 

Ipaivaitani,  welcome  by,  225. 

Isaia,  a native  teacher,  365. 

Isnisu,  teachers  poisoned  at,  163. 

Jacob,  native  address  on,  301. 

Jimi,  a half-caste,  434. 

Johnson,  Professor,  40. 

John  Williams,  the,  58;  wreck  of,  59. 

Kabadi,  visit  to,  198. 

Kalo,  massacre  at,  201 ; Chalmers’ 
address  on,  498. 

Kerepnnu,  fight  at,  i?8;  proclama- 
tion at,  24S. 

Kidnapped  natives,  return  of,  251. 

King,  Rev.  J.,  character  of  Chalmers, 
490 

Kirikeu,  conduct  of,  143. 

Koapena,  a chief,  178,  248. 

Kone,  a rainmaker,  death  of,  275. 

Krause,  Rev.  Mr.,  76;  retirement 
of,  81. 

Kuaiani,  a chief,  184. 

Lahari,  a chief,  389. 

Lakatois  (native  vessels),  224. 

Land  swindle,  the,  241. 

Language  difficulty,  the,  402. 

Large,  Miss  E.,  56:  see  Chalmers, 
Mrs.  E. 

Lawes,  Dr.,  kindness  of,  66. 

Lawes,  Rev.  W.  G.,  his  description 
ofNew  Guinea,  122;  his  welcome 
to  New  Guinea,  127;  return  of, 
164;  welcome  to,  200;  letter  of, 
on  prospects  of  mission,  206  ; on 
District  Committee,  219;  on  an- 
nexation, 237 ; on  the  Protec- 
torate, 260  ; on  New  Guinea  as  a 
Crown  Colony,  263  ; on  the  cha- 
racter of  Chalmers,  486. 

Leocadie  Group,  visit  to,  151. 

London  Missionary  Society,  rules  of, 
34 ; centenary  of,  4 1 2 . 


509 

Lord’s  Supper,  the,  changes  in,  92. 

Mabuiag,  441. 

Macfarlane,  Rev.  M.,  return  of,  164 ; 
views  of,  176;  on  tobacco  as  cur- 
rency, 215;  on  annexation,  237. 

Macgregor,  Sir  Wm.,  appointed  ad- 
ministrator, 263 ; testimony  of, 
293 ; speech  of,  at  Edinburgh, 
420. 

Maclullich  and  Macniven,  Messrs., 
22. 

MacNicoll,  Mr.  A.,  26. 

Maiva,  baptisms  at,  333. 

Makea,  a chief,  79. 

Maki,  a native  teacher,  129. 

Manarangi,  a chief,  79. 

Mangaia,  55 ; welcome  at,  68 ; 
visit  to,  81,  102. 

Man’s  breast  offered  to  Mrs.  Chal- 
mers, 145. 

Marai,  a,  154. 

Maretu,  death  of  wife  of,  1 13. 

Mataio,  death  of,  230. 

Mayri,  the,  139  ; dangerous  position 
of,  146. 

McArthur,  Mr.  J.,  18. 

Meaudi,  a chief,  161. 

Meikle,  Rev.  G.,  preaching  of,  17; 
his  school,  21  ; influence  of,  23. 

Minto,  J.,  saved  from  drowning,  20. 

Miro,  the,  404. 

Missionaries,  treatment  of,  at  home, 
252. 

Morrison,  Mr.  D.,  18. 

Motu  New  Testament,  400. 

Motumotu,  first  visit  to,  199, 

Moveave,  299. 

Mullens’  Harbour,  158. 

Munroe,  Mr.  D.,  25. 

Murray  Island  Mission,  collapse  of, 

314- 

Naime,  appeal  of,  78. 

Navapo,  landing  at,  155. 


510 


Index 


Neville,  a gold  prospector,  story  of, 
135- 

New  Gnirea  Mission  started,  too ; 
teachers  landed  there.  loi ; de- 
scription of,  12  2;  savage  life  in, 
123;  habits  of  people  of,  124; 
position  of  women  in,  124;  re- 
ligions ideas  of  people,  125. 

Newell,  Rev.  J.  E.,  on  character  of 
Chalmers.  495. 

Nine,  wreck  at,  62. 

Ogar,  439. 

Ordinances,  the,  264. 

Pi,  a native  teacher,  story  of,  173. 

Pin,  a native  teacher,  12S. 

Port  Moresby  progress  at,  t66  ; Pro- 
clamation at,  245 ; communion 
at,  493. 

Prayer,  a native,  327. 

Qnaipo.  a chief,  205. 

Queensland,  annexation  by,  236. 

Qnestions  of  Samoan  students,  363. 

Rarotonga,  life  at,  71 ; beauty  of, 
72  ; people  of,  74;  war  and  can- 
nibalism in,  74 ; early  mission- 
aries in,  75  ; Institution  at,  78 ; 
description  of,  90 ; curse  of  drink 
in,  79,  83,  105,  107;  volunteer 
corps  in,  95  ; Divine  service  in, 
102  ; state  of,  in  1873,  105  ; sick- 
ness on.  III. 

Ray,  Mr.,  452, 

Redscar  Ba)',  capsized  in,  311. 

Religions  Tract  Society,  Chalmers’ 
speech  for,  272. 

Reynolds,  Rev.  Dr.,  Chalmers’  meet- 
ing with,  29  : breakdown  of,  48  ; 
testimony  of,  ;i  ; letter  of,  414. 

Romilly,  Mr.  H.  H. , 242  ; testi- 
mony of,  243  sq.  ; views  of,  255  ; 
adventure  of,  310. 


Rook  Island,  2t>o. 

Ross,  Commander.  2:8. 

Ross,  Rev.  C.  S.,  on  Chalmers’  visit 
to  New  Zealand,  126. 

Royle,  Rev.  H.,  welcome  by,  69  ; 
criticisms  of,  97 ; retirement  of, 
1 18. 

Rnatoka,  a native  teacher,  12S,  132  ; 
on  the  death  of  Chalmers,  :02. 

Sagnane,  396;  work  31,427;  chil- 
dren of,  444 ; baptisms  at,  453. 

Saibai,  442. 

Sappho,  a war  canoe,  183. 

Savage,  Mr.,  544. 

School,  native,  \dsit  to,  246. 

Scratchley,  Sir  P.,  appointed  gover- 
nor, 262  ; death  of,  234. 

Smith,  Mr.,  master  of  grammar 
school,  22, 

Smith,  Rev.  Dr.,  19. 

Snake  worship,  431. 

Stacey  Island,  \isit  to,  350. 

Stevenson,  R.  L.,  meeting  with,  350; 
letters  of,  354,  355,  337,  359, 
360. 

Snan,  landing  at,  140 ; reception  at, 
141 ; cannibalism  at,  143. 

Surf  swimming,  63. 

Takan,  wife  of  Atin,  So. 

Tamarua,  a native  teacher,  170; 
death  of,  179. 

Tamate,  6rst  use  of  the  name,  70. 

Taria,  a native  teacher,  204. 

Tauraki,  a native  teacher,  295. 

Teava,  a native  teacher,  93 ; story 
of.  1 14. 

Tepauri,  visit  to,  152. 

Thomas,  Rev.  J.,  testimony  of, 

37- 

Thompson,  Rev.  R W.,  RecoBec 
tions  of.  43. 

Titi,  illness  of,  iia, 

Toaripi,  295. 


Index 


511 


Toaripi,  natives  of,  323. 

Tobacco  used  as  currency,  215. 
Tomahawk  telegram,  the,  307. 
Tomkins,  Rev.  O.  C.,  arrival  of, 
457- 

Training  Institution,  Rarotonga, 
description  of,  90. 

Tugwell,  Mr.,  45. 

Tungane,  wife  of  native  teacher, 
132- 

Turner,  Mr.  W.,  28. 

Turner,  Rev.  Dr.,  influence  of,  30. 
Turner,  Rev.  G.  L. , recollections  of, 
34- 

Turpie,  Captain,  59- 


Vainemuri,  story  of,  iil. 

Valrikori,  baptisms  at,  302. 
Volunteer  corps  at  Rarotonga,  95. 
Von  Mueller,  Baron,  welcome  by, 
290. 

Walker,  Rev.  F.  W.,  arrival  of,  315. 
Wardlaw,  Rev.  Dr.,  influence  of,  29. 
Williams,  Captain,  59. 

Williams,  Rev.  J.,  work  of,  58. 
Wilson,  Commodore,  mission  of, 
205. 

Wreck  at  Aneiteum,  6r ; at  Niue, 
62 ; of  the  Harrier,  374  at 
Vailala,  433. 


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